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TMOM^^S JKEJLXiYc. 



Picturesque Ireland: 

A 

LITERARY AND ARTISTIC DELINEATION 



THE NATURAL SCENERY, REMARKABLE PLACES, HISTORICAL 

ANTIQUITIES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ANCIENT ABBEYS, 

TOWERS, CASTLES, AND OTHER 

Romantic and Attractive Features of Ireland. 



Illustrated in Steel and Wood, by Eminent Native and Foreig7i Artists 



^7^ Edited by JOHN SAVAGE, LL.a 



NEW YORK : 

PUBLISHED BY THOMAS KELLY, 

358 & 360 Broome Street. 



THE LIBRARY j 
or CONGRESS ll 

WASHHIGTOV i 



\/ 



Copyright, 7SS4. 

BY 
THOMAS KELLY. 



sv^ 



iv Thomas Kelly, New York. 



Preface. 




i'N volumes previously published relating to the subject embraced in this 
Work, it was not unusual, by way of recommendation, to dwell, per- 
haps with pardonable pride, on the fact, that they severally presented 
scenes which had not been heretofore given through the medium of 
art to the public eye. Circumstances more than choice directed such 
a course ; as editors and artists, and especially publishers, deemed it 
rather a risk to go over ground already occupied. It is conceded that 
many charming scenes, hitherto little known, were thus brought to 
view, and many admirable descriptions of scenery added to the illustrative litera- 
ture of Ireland. It must be also admitted, however, that the representative scenic 
splendors and beauties of the favored island were issued in disconnected forms, 
running through a series of works of unequal artistic and literary merit. The cost 
of these several volumes — all of which have special interest to those bound by 
birth, descent, or kin to the localities illustrated — is such as to preclude the ma- 
jority of the lovers of Ireland, or students of the historical and the beautiful, from 
obtaining a satisfactory or intelligent knowledge of the entire subject. 

Without reflecting on the works alluded to, the majority of which were of local 
importance, we can confidently claim that the present work will more fully repre- 
sent the scenery of Ireland at large than any yet published on either side of the 
Atlantic. 

Picturesque Ireland is designed to embrace and present all the best and 
most striking features of preceding works on the subject — reproductions of the 
pictures and drawings of eminent artists who have, during the present century, 
given such a notable impetus to the study of Irish scenery, topography, and anti- 
quities — with hundreds of other views from recent photographs and drawings, 

3 



4 PRE FA CE. 

especially engraved for the work. Thus the characteristic features — natural, 
archaeological, and architectural, of all sections of the country — north and south, 
east and west — the public streets and buildings of the chief cities, the beautiful 
rivers and enchanting lakes, magnificent coast lines, historical castles, old abbeys 
and towers, wild mountains, picturesque valleys, glens, and waterfalls — from the 
Giant's Causeway and the solemn grandeur of the coasts of Antrim and Donegal 
in the north, to the poetical Lakes of Killarney, and the romantic mountain-gaps 
and river scenery of Tipperary, Waterford, Cork, and Kerry in the south ; from 
the exquisite glens and cataracts on the Liffey in Dublin and Wicklow in the east, 
to the expanding magnificence of the Shannon and the wilds of Connemara in the 
west, — will be reproduced in an attractive form, and at a price which will be within 
the means of every intelligent family. 

In this work every county in Ireland will be noticed, and the remarkable fea- 
tures of each illustrated. Artists and engravers who have already raised the 
standard of American excellence in Illustrated Works, add their ability and skill 
to the intrinsic attractiveness of the subject, and the affinities and experience of the 
Editor may be taken as a guarantee that the literary portion of the work will be — - 
in descriptive, historical, and antiquarian matter — as variously full, suggestive, or 
exhaustive as the themes may command, or space permit. 

For works of this nature, combining Literature and Art, a taste and apprecia- 
tion has been developed among cultivated people in America and Europe, result- 
ing in a demand at once highly creditable to the producers and the purchasers. 
The Publisher congratulates himself upon having made this work, in artistic 
excellence, mechanical skill, and general elegance, fully equal to the prevailing 
high expectations in relation to undertakings of its class. 



CONTENTS. 



^ PAGE 

INTRODUCTION xix 

KERRY 5 

WICKLOW 6i 



ANTRIM . 



log 



GALWAY 1 77 

MEATH 245 

WESTMEATH 2S5 

LONGFORD 290 



DUBLIN. 



293 



MAYO 3S1 

CARLOW 401 

CORK 405 

KING'S COUNTY 471 

ARMAGH 473 

ROSCOMMON 477 

QUEEN'S COUNTY 479 

FERMANAGH 4S1 

LEITRIM 4S7 

MONAGHAN 4S8 

LOUTH 489 

WEXFORD 497 

SLIGO 509 

DONEGAL , 513 

CAVAN 520 

WATERFORD ■ 521 

TYRONE 535 

KILKENNY 537 

LIMERICK 551 

KILDARE 565 

LONDONDERRY 573 

CLARE 579 

DOWN 589 

TIPPERARY 602 

GENERAL INDEX 617 

iii 



^"^ 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Map of Ireland. Engraved expressly for Savage's Picturesque Ireland. . . 

Sligo Abbey. Title page 

Map of Kerry 

View on the Blackwater (Kerry), from the Bridge 

Blackwater Bridge 

Tunnel on Kenmare Road 

Rocks on Kenmare Road — Lake view 

Tore Cascade 

Tore Cascade 

The Chancel, Muckross 

Muckross Abbey, Eastern Window 

Fireplace at Muckross 

Views at Muckross : 

West Porch and Nave "1 

Nave I 

Innisfallen 

Muckross, The Chancel 

Chancel and Nave 

Muckross by Moonlight T. . . 

Tomb of the Monks 

Doorway at Aghadoe 

Kate Kearney's Cottage 

Rapids in the Gap of Dunloe 

Tore and Lower Lake, from Tore Cascade 

Gap of Dunloe 

The Pike ,. 

The Balance Rock 

Derrycunnihy 

Derrycunnihy Cascade 

Eagle's Nest 

Old Weir Bridge 

Under the Rocks at Tore Lake 

Old Weir Bridge, near view 

The Cottage on Dinis Island 

Brickeen Bridge 

Innisfallen 

O'Sullivan's Cascade 

Cottage at Glena 

Ruins of Ross Castle 

Ross Island 

Ross Castle by Moonlight 

O'Donoghue's Horse 

The Vision of O'Donoghue 

Eagle's Nest Mountain, from Kenmare Road. 

KillaSihie Church 



ARTIST. 

Russell. 

T. M. Baynes. 

Russell. 

G. W. Gibson. 

J. Noblett. 

A. Nicholl. 

F. B. Schell. 

G. W. Gibson. 
A. Nicholl. 

A. Nicholl. 
A. Nicholl. 
R. D. Tongue. 



T. S. Prout. 
A. Nicholl. 
G. W. Gibson. 

F. W. Hulme. 

G. W. Gibson. 
G. W. Gibson. 

, A. Nicholl. 
, R. D. Tongue. 
, G. W. Gibson. 

F. B. Schell. 

A. Nicholl. 

F. B. Schell. 

W. Gibson. 

A. Nicholl. 

A. Nicholl. 

A. Nicholl. 

A. Nicholl. 

F. B. Schell. 
A. Nicholl. 
A. Nicholl. 
A. Nicholl. 

G. W. Gibson. 
R. D, Tongue. 
J. R. Herbert. 
W. H. Gibson. 
R. D, Tongue. 



ENGRAVER. PAGE 

Struthers 

W. Watson 

Struthers 5 

Harley 5 

Landells 6 

Landells 7 

Meeder— Chubb . . S 

Meeder — Chubb . . g 

Landells 10 

Landells 10 

Landells 11 

Landells 11 



Lauderbach 13 



Evans 17 

Landells.- 17 

Meeder— Chubb . . iS 

W. Measom 19 

Baker 20 

Meeder — Chubb . . 21 

Walmsley 22 

Landells 23 

Meeder — Chubb . . 24 

Harley 25 

Landells 27 

Harley 2S 

Meeder — Chubb . . 29 

Landells 30 

Green 30 

Landells 31 

Landells 32 

Lauderbach 33 

Green 35 

Walmsley. . 35 

Landells 36 

Harley 37 

Landells 38 

Landells 39 

Morse 41 

Landells 43 

vii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



1 



J 



W. H. Gibson. 



Devil's Punch Bowl F. B. Schell. 

Profile of Rocks at Devil's Punch Bowl V. Abrahams. 

Flesk River F. W. Hulme. 

Over the Upper Lake, Killarney F. W. Hulme. 

Tore Mountains, from Dinis Island W. H. Gibson. 

Galway River (Killarney), Cascade on ■ ■ F. B. Schell. 

Shore of Dingle Bay W. Evans. 

Views at and near Killarney ; 

Killarney, distant view of the lakes 

Lake in Gap of Dunloe 

The Friar's Grave 

Cottage at Derrycunnihy 

On the Kenmare Road 

Dinis Cottage 

Killarney, Victoria Hotel 

Pusha Pike Fishing W. Willes. 

Ferriter's Castle "W. Evans. 

Ballybunian, On the Coast F. B. Schell. 

Ardfert Abbey H. Hill. 

Tomb in Ardfert Abbey H. Hill. 

Mount Brendan 

Map of Wicklow Russell. 

First View of Wicklow, from the Scalp W. H. Gibson. 

Scalp G. F. Sargent. 

Bray-Head to " Sugar Loaf," from Dalkey, North G. F. Sargent. 

Bray-Head, South • F. B. Schell. 

A Narrow Gorge in the Dargle G. F. Sargent. 

In the Dargle W. H. Gibson. 

Bridge in the Dargle W. H. Gibson. 

Cascade in the Dargle A. Nichol. 

The Golden Spears, from over the Glen of the Downs F. B. Schell. 

Lough Dan, near view F. B. Schell 

Glen of the Downs, South A. NichoU. 

Delgany G. F. Sargent. 

Lough Dan, from Luggelaw G. F. Sargent. 

Luggelaw, the barren side G. F. Sargent. 

Lough Dan A. Nicholl. 

In the Vale of Clara W. H. Gibson. 

Lough Bray ... A. Nicholl. 

Rathdrum F. B. Schell. 

Glenmalure W. H. Gibson. 

The Valley of Glen-da-Lough W. H. Gibson. 

The Abbey, or Priory of St. Saviour '.A. Nicholl. 

St. Kevin's Kitchen W. F. Wakeman. 

Our Lady's Church — Doorway A. Nicholl. 

The Church of Rhefeart A. Nicholl. 

St. Kevin's Cell A. Nicholl. 

St. Kevin's Bed A. Nicholl. 

Ancient Stone Cross and Round Tower, at Glen-da-Lough F. B. Schell. 

In the Devil's Glen F. B. Schell 

Entrance to to the Devil's Glen A. Nicholl. 

Head of Devil's Glen A. Nicholl. 

Over the Devil's Glen G. F. Sargent. 

The View Rock, Dunran A. Nicholl. 

Waterfall in the Devil's Glen W. H. Gibson. 

Waterfall at Hermitage G. F. Sargent. 

Vale of Afroca W. H. Gibson. 

Second Meeting of the Waters, from Ballintemple A. Nicholl. 

Near " The Old Wooden Bridge " , 



ENGRAVER. PAGE 

F. S. King 44 

Walmsley 45 

W. Measom 45 

W. T. Green 46 

J. Filmer 4S 

Meeder — Chubb ... 4g 

Green 52 



Evans 54 

Green 55 

Lauderbach 56 

Landells 57 

Sly 57 

59 

Struthers 61 

J. Filmer 6i 

Green 63 

Whimper 64 

Meeder — Chubb ... 65 

Walmsley 67 

Smithwick — French 6S 

Morse 69 

Whimper 70 

F. S. King 72 

• 73 

Landells 74 

Armstrong 75 

Miss Williams 75 

T. Williams 76 

Landells 76 

J. Filmer 77 

Whimper 7S 

J. Filmer So 

Smithwick — French Si 

Karst S5 

T. Williams S6 

Hanlon S7 

E. Evans SS 

Bastin SS 

Bastin 90 

Jackson 92 

Meeder — Chubb ... 93 

Harley 96 

Landells 97 

T. Gilks gS 

Armstrong 99 

Landells 100 

J. Filmer lOi 

Walmsley 102 

Johnston 105 

Green 106 

106 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



NAME. ARTIST. 

Lower Vale of Avoca, and Shelton Abbey J. Bentley. 

Arklow Prior. 

Map of Antrim Russell . 

The Giant's Gate — Causeway, Antrim F. B. Schell. 

Methodist College, Belfast J. R. Brown. 

Belfast, Antrim side of the Lagan J. R. Brown. 

Belfast, Queen's Quay — Down side of the Lagan J. R. Brown. 

Queen's College, Belfast J. R. Brown. 

Presbyterian College J. R . Brown. 

Botanical Garden, Belfast G. F. Sargent. 

Library, Queen's College, Belfast J. R. Brown. 

The Albert Memorial, Belfast J. R. Brown. 

North Gate, Carrickfergus J. R. Brown. 

Carrickfergus Castle, from the land side T. V. Watson. 

Swift's Church, at Kilroot A. Nicholl. 

Glenarm W. H. Gibson. 

Olderfleet Castle J. H. Burgess. 

The Goblin Cliffs A. Nicholl, 

Castles at Carrickfergus and Glenarm : 

Carrickfergus Castle, from the water \ 

Antrim Castle (- W. H. Gibson. . 

Glenarm Castle ) 

The Maidens J. H. Burgess. 

Barbican of Antrim Castle A. Nicholl. 

Bridge and Castle at Glenarm A. Nicholl. 

Garron Tower F. B. Schell. 

Road through Cliff, at Garron Point A. Nicholl. 

Clough-i-Stookan A. Nicholl. 

Tunnel at Red Bay A. Nicholl. 

Murlough Bay A. Nicholl. 

Pairhead F. B. Schell. 

Entrance to Grey Man's Path A. Nicholl. 

The Salt Pans A. Nicholl. 

The Grey Man's Path W. H. Gibson. 

Kenbane, looking over Bally Castle Bay to Fairhead A. Nicholl. 

Carrick-a-Rede and Sheep Island 

Kenbane Castle, from Southeast — Rathlin in the distance F. B. Schell. 

Carrick-a-Rede, at the Rope Bridge F. B. Schell. 

Carrick-a-Rede — Base of the Chasm A. Nicholl. 

Bengore Head — The Pleaskin, from the West A. Nicholl. 

Dunseverick Castle J. O. Davidson. 

Bruce's Castle A. Nicholl. 

Doon Point A. Nicholl. 

The Giant's Causeway A. Nicholl. 

The Lion's Head A. Nicholl. 

Pleaskin — Giant's Causeway W. H. Gibson. 

The King and his Nobles, from the West A. Nicholl. 

The Nursing Child— Priest and His Flock A. Nicholl. 

Chimney Rock — Giant's Causeway F. B. Schell, 

The Chimney Tops, from the East A. Nicholl. 

The Giant's Organ A. Nicholl. 

The Giant's Causeway, East A. Nicholl. 

The Giant's Causeway, from land side J. O. Davidson. 

The Giant's Well A. Nicholl. 

The " Honeycomb," Middle Causeway, from Little Causeway F. B. Schell. 

Views on the Antrim Coast : 

Bridge of Glendun 

Town Hall at Lame \ W. H. Gibson. 

Grace Staple's Cave 



ENGRAVER. PAGE 

Green 107 

Smith loS 

Struthers igg 

Meeder — Chubb... 109 

Brewer iii 

Brewer 112 

Brewer 113 

Brewer 114 

Brewer 115 

Miss Clint 115 

Brewer 116 

Brewer 117 

Brewer iiS 

Evans 119 

Landells 120 

Harley 121 

J. Andrew 123 

Whimper 124 



125 



Whimper 126 

C. Gray 127 

Evans 128 

J. Filmer 129 

Smith 130 

C. Gray 130 

Whimper 131 

J. Wakefield 132 

Smithwick — French 133 

Whimper 134 

Whimper 136 

J. Hellawell 137 

J. Kirchner 138 

139 

Varley 140 

Langridge 141 

Smith 142 

Miss Williams 144 

J. Filmer 145 

Whimper 146 

Jackson , 148 

Smith 148 

Jackson 148 

Johnson 149 

Jackson 151 

Evans 152 

Cole 152 

Whimper 154 

Jackson 155 

Jackson 156 

Langridge 157 

Smith 158 

Meeder — Chubb . , . 160 



J. Filmer 161 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



■cd: 



NAME. 

Views on the Antrim Coast. — Coiitina 

GlenarifF 

Church at Layd — Ossian's Grave 

Port Coon Cave 

Dunkeny Cave 

Bush Mill 

Shane's Castle 

Shane's Castle, from Lough Neagh 

Views near Shane's Castle and Lough Neagh ; 

O'Neill's Tomb 

O'Neill's Chair and Seal 

Shane's Castle, showing Terrace fronting the Lough. . 

Templecoran Church 

Trummery Round Tower 

Lisburn 

Round Tower at Antrim 

Map of Galway 

The Abbey of Clare-Galway 

Arch in the Claddagh 

Street in Galway 

Warden Lynch's House, 1493 

Market of the Claddagh Fishermen 

Antique Claddagh Ring 

Queen's College, Galway 

Views at Galway and Gort ; 

In the Claddagh 

AVest Bridge and Father Daly's Chapel 

Loughoutra Castle 

Lough Inagh 

Twelve Pin (Bennebola) Mountains, and Lake of Kyleraore. 

Over Lough Inagh .... 

View from Coolnacartan Hill 

Lough Derry, Clare, and Maam Turk Mountains 

Loiigh Fee 

Garromin, Connemara 

Glen in Connemara 

Ballinahinch 

Views on Western Highlands, Connemara : 

Letterfrack and Diamond Hill 

Glendalough 

Twelve Pin Mountains 

Lough Ballinahinch 

A Salmon Haul 

Below the Falls at Clifden 

Clifden 

Clifden Falls 

On the Kylemore Road 

The Coast at Rinvyle 

In the Pass at Kylemore 

Killery 

Salruc Pass 

Hotel at Maam 

Hen's Castle at Lough Coorib, and Maam Turk Mountains. 

Leenane 

Moving Bog 

Views in Connemara : 

Clifden Castle 

Pass and Lake of Kylemore 

In the Pass of Kylemore 

Kylemore Castle 



W. H. Gibson. 

A. NichoU. 
F. B. Schell. 
A. Nicholl. 
W. H. Gibson. 
A. Nicholl. 



j 

\ W. H. Gibson. 



C. C. Hamilton. 
J. R. Brown.. . . 



W. H. Gibson. 
G. F. Sargent. 
W. Evans. 
F. B. Schell. 
W. Evans. 
F. W. Fairholt. 
W. H. Gibson. 



W. H. Gibson. 

W. Evans. 
W. Brown. 
W. H. Gibson. 
F. B. Schell. 
W. H. Gibson. 
W. Evans. 
F. B. Schell. 



J. Filmer 161 

C. Gray 163 

J. Filmer 165 

Jackson 167 

R. Schellim 169 

Jackson 172 



J. Filmer 173 



Nicholls 175 

176 

177 

Smithwick — French 177 

Evans 17S 

Whimper 179 

J. Filmer iSi 

Jackson 1S3 

Nicholls 1S3 

Meeder— Chubb ... 1S5 



W. H. Gibson. 



W. H. Gibson. 

F. W. Fairholt. 
F. W. Fairholt. 
W. H. Gibson. 
W. H. Gibson. 
W. Evans. 
W. Evans. 
W. H. Gibson. 
F. W. Fairholt. 
W. H. Gibson. 
F. W. Fairholt. 
W. Evans. 
F. B. Schell. 



J. Clement 1S9 

Evans 191 

Watson 192 

Langridge 193 

Meeder — Chubb.... 197 

Smithwick — French 201 

Vizetelly 203 

Varley 205 

Dalziel 207 

Mextom 209 



J.Johnstone 213 

Nicholls 214 

Walmsley 216 

Varley 217 

J. Filmer 221 

Vizetelly 222 

Jackson 224 

J. Filmer 225 

Bastin 227 

Varley 22S 

Armstrong 229 

Evans 231 

Harley 233 



Mrs. W. D. Griffiths 235 



W. H. Gibson. 



Varley 237 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Kuins of Kilfursa 

Lough Mask, from Fairhill F. W. Fairholt. 

Doorway of St. Patrick's Church, Inchangoill. 

Doorway of the Church of the Saint 

Impost Capital, right I From Wilde's Lough \ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^_ 

Impost Capital, left I Conib 

Monumental Stone, West 

Monumental Stone, East 

Tuam Cathedral F. W^ Fairholt. 

Statue of John of Tuam 

Map of Meath 

Trim, from Over the Boyne W. H. Gibson. 

Trim Castle : W. F. Wakeman. 

Interior of Trim Castle 

Ancient Tomb of Clonard W. F. Wakeman. 

Wellington Monument, Trim W. H. Gibson. 

Scurlogstown Castle W. F. Wakeman. 

Newtown Bridge and St. John's Priory W. F. Wakeman. 

Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul G. Gastineau. 

Bective Abbey J. B. Burgess. 

Tara Hill W. H. Gibson. 

The Boyne, and Plain of Meath W. H. Gibson. 

Athlumney Castle W. F. Wakeman. 

Pillar Stone on the Hill of Tara W. F. Wakeman . 

Abbey of Slane W. H. Gibson. 

Doorway, Hermitage of St. Ere W. F. Wakeman. 

Choir Arch, Cannistown W. F. Wakeman. 

Font of Kilcarn W. F. Wakeman. 

Carvings on the Font of Kilcarn — First View W. F. Wakeman. 

Carvings on the Font of Kilcarn — Second View W. F. Wakeman. 

St. Kieren's Cross W. F. Wakeman. 

Round Tower, Donaghmore J. B. Burgess. 

Distant View of Dangan Castle J. B. Burgess. 

Swift's Parish Church, at Laracor 

Donaghmore Abbey and Tower J. Warren. 

Dunmoe Castle John Savage. 

The Boyne, from Old Bridge G. Du Noyer. 

Mound of New Grange After Wakeman. 

Ruins of Dangan Castle : 

Views at New Grange ; 

Ancient Remains of New Grange ) „ , ,^ „ 

\ Tudor Horton, after Connolly. 



23S 

Evans 240 

241 
241 

Kenny — Redman. . ~^' 
242 

242 
242 

Evans 243 

244 

245 

Filmer 245 

Jackson 24S 

249 

Hanlon 250 

Filmer 251 

Hanlon 251 

Nugent 252 

Bastin 253 

Miss Williams. . . . 255 

Smith 256 

Smith 257 

Hanlon 258 

260 

Clement 261 

Hanlon 262 

Hanlon 263 

Hanlon 263 

Hanlon 264 

Hanlon 264 

Hanlon .... 266 

Sly 267 

Dalzie! 26S 



Eastern Recess, or Crypt. . . 

Stones of the Circle 

Carving in Eastern Recess. 



Carving in Eastern Recess V Tudor Horton, after Wakeman. 

Carved Stone on Exterior 1 

Entrance to Gallery J 

Kilsharvan Church 

Northern Crypt, in New Grange A. NichoU. 

Mound of Dowth W. F. Wakeman. 

Entrance to Gallery, Dowth W. F. Wakeman. 

Caillemote's Grave G. Du Noyer. 

Donore Hill and Church Ruins G. Du Noyer. 

The Old Sheep-House G. Du Noyer. 

Tara Brooch 

Map of Westmeath 

Multifemam Abbey John Savage. 

Old Gateway at Fore Tudor Horton. 

Athlone, from Westmeath J. Warren. 



Cammeyer 271 

J. Filmer 273 

Miss Williams. . . . 274 

CuUen 275 



Kenny — Redman. 276 



Kenny — Redman. 276 



27S 

Gilks 279 

Hanlon 2S0 

Hanlon 281 

Landells 282 

Landells 2S3 

Landells 2S4 

284 

285 

J. Filmer 285 

Kenny — Redman. 2S7 

Filmer 288 



xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

NAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGP 

Map of Longford 2gu 

Maria Edgeworth's Residence F. W. Fairholt. Landells 290 

Ruins of Goldsmith's Early Home G. F. Sargent. Evans 291 

The Site of the Hawthorn Bush F. W Fairholt. Landells 291 

Scenes of Goldsmith's " Deserted Village " : 

Three Pigeons S 

The Church I „ „ 01,11 -c-i 

> !■ . B. Schell. Fumer 292 

The Vicarage 

The Busy Mill J 

Map of Dublin 295 

View in Phcenix Park, Dublin 293 

Howth Harbor and Lighthouse G. F. Sargent. Green 294 

Howth Abbey G. F. Sargent. Evans 295 

Howth Castle 296 

Howth Head and Beach J. O. Davidson. Harley 297 

St. Doulough's Church F. W. Wakeman 298 

St. Doulough's Well J. Connell. Wakefield 299 

Malahide Abbey Tudor Horton . Kenny — Redman . 300 

The Bailey Lighthouse J. O. Davidson. Filmer 

Malahide Castle G. F. Sargent. Wakefield 302 

Round Tower and Church, Lusk A. NichoU. Evans 303 

Round Tower and Church, Swords G. F. Sargent. Landells 304 

Demesne and Castle of Howth — Ireland Eye and Lambay in the Distance . After Bartlett. Littell 305 

Swords Castle G. F. Sargent. Evans 306 

New Railway Station, at North Wall 30S 

The Liffey — Carlisle Bridge 309 

Birmingham Tower G. Du Noyer. Nugent 310 

Christ Church Cathedral G. F. Sargent. Bastin 311 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Southeast G. F. Sargent. Armstrong 312 

On the Liffey — Wood Quay — Richmond Bridge 313 

Strongbow's Monument — Christ Church 314 

Crypt — Christ Church 315 

Norman Doorway — Christ Church 316 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, East Harral 317 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, South 31S 

Swift's Monument 319 

Swift's Birthplace 320 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Interior 321 

Room in which Lord Edward was Captured H. MacManus. Jackson 323 

Sackville Street — General Post Office 324 

Sackville Street — Nelson's Pillar, from Carlisle Bridge. 325 

Bank of Ireland — Old Parliament House, from southeast G. F. Sargent. Walmsley 327 

Castle Yard 329 

Burke Statue 330 

Grattan Statue 331 

O'Connell's Residence, Merrion Square 332 

Chapel Royal, and Birmingham Tower Harral 333 

Mornington House 335 

Statue of William III 336 

The Chapel Royal, Interior 337 

Moore's Birthplace — as it was - 339 

Rotunda and Lying-In Hospital 340 

The Four Courts (of Law) 341 

Moore's Birthplace — as it is 342 

New Railway Bridge over the Liffey 344 

Statue of Oliver Goldsmith Roberts 345 

View down Dame Street, from Trinity College — Grattan 's Statue, King 

William's in the rear 347 

The Custom- House— South Front 349 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xiii 

NAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE 

Ogham Stone in Trinity College 351 

Bell Tower, Trinity College 352 

Trinity College^the Quadrangle G. F. Sargent. Evans 355 

Trinity College 356 

Library, Trinity College 357 

Birthplace of Burke 359 

St. Michan's Church — Burial-Place of Emmet 360 

O'Connell Monument, Glasnevin 361 

Bank of Ireland (Old Parliament House) 364 

House of Lords — Old Parliament House 365 

The Bank — Eastern Fa9ade and Portico, from College Gate 366 

St. Patrick's Bell 366 

Shrine of the Bell 366 

St. Stephen's Green — North Side 367 

Grafton Street — Bank on left— College on right - 368 

Albert Memorial (Dublin) 369 

Bloody Bridge G. F. Sargent. Wakefield 370 

Statue of Earl of Carlisle 37° 

Bird's-Eye View of Dublin, from the Summit of Nelson's Pillar — Dub- 
lin Mountains in the Southern Distance 371 

View in Phoenix Park 374 

Tunnel under Phcenix Park 375 

Vice-Royal Lodge, Phcenix Park 376 

Clondalkin and Round Tower— Southern Approach 377 

Distant View of Clondalkin Round Tower, from the North H. O'Neill. Mason 37S 

Skerry Islands 379 

Dublin Bay, from Dalkey, over Kingstown Tuttle. Tuttle 380 

Map of Mayo 3Si 

Cong Abbey , Frank Bellew. Meeder — Chubb.. . 3S1 

Gateway, Cong Abbey F. W. Fairholt. NichoUs 382 

Chancel Windows, Cong Abbey F. W. Fairholt. Evans 3S2 

The Pigeon Hole F. W. Fairholt. Branston 383 

The Cross of Cong F. W. Fairholt. Walmsley 384 

The Killeries, Mayo Dalziel 385 

In the Mountains of Mayo W. Evans. Vizetelly 386 

Approach to Delphi W. Evans. Evans 387 

Over Delphi Lodge '• W. H. Gibson. Langridge 389 

Moyne Abbey 39^ 

Head of the Killeries W. H. Gibson. G. F. Smith 392 

Clew Bay F. W. Fairholt. Bastin 393 

Ruins of St. Colman's 394 

Newport-Mayo F. W. Fairholt. Landells 395 

Burrishoole Abbey F. W. Fairholt. Evans 396 

Carrig-a-Hooley Castle : F. W. Fairholt. Evans 396 

Muilrea, Killeries F. B. Schell. H. Gray 397 

A Village on Achill F. W. Fairholt. A. J. Mason 399 

Rocks on Achill F. W. Fairholt. Evans 400 

On the Moy 4°° 

Map of Carlow • 4°! 

Carlow and Surrounding Country W. Harvey. Green 401 

The "Mound of the Kings" ' G. F. Sargent. Landells 402 

Carlow Castle G. F. Sargent. Bastin 403 

Milford — Mount Leinster and Blackstairs in the Distance W. Harvey. Bastin 404 

Map of Cork , 405 

Queen's College, Cork W. H. Gibson. Meeder— Chubb. . 405 

Cork Harbor W. Willes. Green 406 

Crosshaven Sargent 407 

Haulbowline and Spike Island M. A. Williams... 408 

The Depot on Rocky Islands Lady Deane. Landells 409 



xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

NAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE 

Fishing Boats ofE Haulbowline J- O. Brierly. Landells 410 

East Feny 4" 

" Cove," Queenstown F. W. Hulme. Dalziel 412 

Lough Mahon 4^3 

Round Tower at Cloyne 4^4 

Cloyne Cathedral 4I5 

The Mathew Tower 4i6 

Views at Cork ; 

Sunday's Well 1 

Father Mathew Statue r F. B. Schell. Smith 417 

North Wall, from the Lee ' 

Father Mathew Temperance Medal Sly 418 

The Cork Arms. Landells 419 

Patrick's Bridge and Camden Quay, from Merchant's Quay Filmer 420 

The Mardyke F B. Schell. Smith 421 

Portal of the Old Cathedral H. Hill. Landells 422 

Tomb in the Cemetery F. G. Sargent. Evans 423 

Scene in the Cemetery F. G. Sargent. Evans 424 

Cathedral and Interior F. B. Schell. Sharp 425 

James Barry's Birthplace T. C. Croker 426 

From the Road to Cork F. W. Hulme. G. Dalziel 42S 

Macroom Castle W. H. Gibson. Harley 429 

Shandon Steeple Dalziel 432 

Myrtle Grove ; Residence of Sir Walter Raleigh, Youghal F. B. Schell. Clement 433 

Cromlech at Castle Mary T. C. Croker. Landells 434 

Old Signal Tower at Youghal W. WiUes. Sly 435 

Raleigh's House — Front View 436 

Collegiate Church Ruins, Youghal F. B. Schell. Varley 437 

Raleigh's Yew Arbor W. Willes. Jackson 43S 

Hie Jacet Thomas Fleming H. Hill. Landells 439 

Kilcrea Friary J- Noblett. Landells 440 

Carrig-a-Droid Castle ' W. Willes. Sly 442 

Kinsale Harbor W. Willes. Evans 443 

Ship-Pool Castle W. Willes. Sly 444 

Downdaniel Castle W- Willes. Jackson 444 

Grave of Gerald Griffin Frank Bellew. Meeder— Chubb ... 445 

Northwest View of Blarney Castle G. Gibson. Harley 447 

Blarney Castle W. H. Gibson. G. F. Smith 449 

Views at and near Blarney Castle : 

Kissing the Blarney Stone \ 

Blarney Castle, from over the water h F. B. Schell. Schelling 453 

At St. Arms ' 

Monanimy Castle Armstrong 454 

Tomb of De Barry W. Willes. Evans 455 

Mallow Castle 45^ 

Kilcolman Castle 'W. H. Gibson. Smithwick— French 457 

The Pass of Keim-an-eigh A. NichoU. Landells 45S 

Gougane Barra 459 

The Green Little Island, Gougane Barra A. Nicholl. Landells 460 

View at Glengarifl W. H. Gibson. Varley 461 

Church at Glengariff '. ■ - W. H. Gibson. Varley 461 

Lough Ine • • • W. Willes. Landells 462 

Crookhaven Harbor Dalziel 463 

Crookhaven, looking inland W. Willes. Green 464 

Dunanore Castle, Cape Clear W. Willes. Green 464 

Abbey Ruins, Inisherkin W. Willes. Landells 465 

Bantry Bay • • A. Nicholl. Landells 465 

Entrance to Bantry, from Lord Bantry's, Swan Lake Dalziel 466 

The Harbor of Berehaven F. G. Sargent. Green 466 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



NAME, ARTIST, ENGRAVER, , PAGE 

The House of Rocks A, NichoU, Landells , , , 467 

At Glengariff W. H. Gibson. G. F, Smith 46S 

Cromwell's Bridge, Glengariff F, B, Schell, Varley 469 

From Glengariff to Killarney 470 

Map of Kings County 471 

Garry Castle G. F. Sargent. Gilks 471 

Clonmacnoise Cross and Ruins A. Nicholl. Evans 472 

Map of Armagh , 473 

Armagh Proctor 473 

Interior of the Old Cathedral before its Restoration H. MacManus. Wakefield 474 

Charlemont Fort H. MacManus. Jackson 475 

Map of Roscommon 477 

Athlone Castle 477 

Kilcomodon Hill F. W, Fairholt. Mason 47S 

Map of Queens County 479 

Rock of Dun-a-Mase Lady Chatterton, Walmsley 479 

Canal Fly-Boat G. DuNoyer, Gray 4S0 

Map of Fermanagh 4S i 

Lough Erne J. Franklin. Dudley 481 

Monea Castle J. Franklin. Miss Cook 483 

Tully Castle G. F. Sargent. Kirchner 484 

Round Tower and Church on Devenish J. Franklin. Miss M, A. Williams 485 

Sculpture on Round Tower, North side G. F. Sargent. Evans 486 

Map of Leitrim . : 487 

Map of Monaghan 488 

Lough between Monaghan and Cavan H. MacManus, Jackson 4SS 

Map of Louth 489 

King John's Castle, Carlingsford A, Nicholl. Mason 489 

Castle Roche T. B, Burgess. Jackson 490 

King James' Quarters before the Boyne G. DuNoyer. Evans 491 

King William's Quarters before the Boyne G. DuNoyer. Miss Cook 491 

Cromwell's Fort H. Gastineau. Nicholls 492 

St, Lawrence Gate .• 493 

Crypt at Mellifont Abbey A. Nicholl. Wakefield 494 

Baptistry, Mellifont G. F. Sargent. Gilks 494 

Cross of Muredach W. F. Wakeman. Hanlon 495 

Ruins at Monasterboice A. Nicholl. Gilks 496 

Map of We.xford 497 

Ferry Carrick on the Slaney A. Nicholl, T. Williams 497 

Promontory of Bag-an-Bun John Lynn. Green 49S 

The Saltee Islands John Lynn, Green 498 

Ruins of Bannow Abbey ■ G. F. Sargent. Green 499 

Tintern Abbey John Lynch. Bastin 499 

Clonmines A. Nicholl, Evans 500 

The Lake at Johnstown A. Nicholl. Jackson. 500 

Enniscorthy After Creswick. Walmsley 501 

Dunbrody Abbey, West 502 

Remains of Selsker Abbey, adjoining the old Fortifications 503 

Rathmacnee Castle G. F. Sargent, Evans 504 

Bargy Castle A. Nicholl. T. Williams 504 

Selsker Abbey. G. F. Sargent. Green 505 

St. Eden's Monument A. Nicholl. Sly 506 

Ancient Font at Ferns A. Nicholl. Sly 506 

Augustinian Abbey Ruins, Ferns A. Nicholl. Wakefield 507 

Ferns Castle A. Nicholl. Wakefield 50S 

Map of Sligo 509 

Sligo Abbey—Cloisters After W. H. Bartlett. R. S. Bross 509 

Sligo Abbey— Nave and Choir After W. H. Bartlett. R. S. Bross 511 

Town Hall, Sligo 5 12 



xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

NAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE- 

Map of Donegal 5I3- 

Donegal Castle 513 

Bundoran G. F. Sargent. Whimper 516 

Grianan of Aileach — Exterior Bross 517 

Grianan— Bird's-eye View Bross 517 

Castle of Myler Magrath, overlooking Lough Erne G. F. Sargent. Miss Clint 518 

Donegal Castle, from below J. H. Burgess. Landells 519 

Map of Cavan 520 

Old Mill G. F. Sargent.' Evans 520. 

Map of Waterford 521 

Cromlech at Knockeen 521 

Up the Blackwater — Rincrew H. Hill. Sly 522' 

Up the Blackwater — Strancally 523 

Up the Blackwater — Knockmeledown in the Distance Armstrong 524 

Mount Melleray 525 

Mount Melleray Chapel 52& 

Weir at Lismore W. Evans. Green 527 

On the way to the Suir 528 

St. Declan's Well Lady Deane. Evans 529 

Round Tower at Ardmore G. F. Sargent. Gilks 529 

Coumshinaun J. Egan. Bastin 530 

Tubber Grieve G. F. Sargent. Landells 531 

The Castle of Kin-Corr G. F. Sargent. Sly 532 

Church Ruins at Faithlegg ■. G. F. Sargent. Landells 533 

Dunmore Pier C. N. Bolton. Bastin 534 

Druid Altar near Dunmore C. N. Bolton. Sly 534 

Map of Tyrone 535 

Castle Caulfield J. H. Burgess. Evans 535 

St. Patrick's Chair.' Bross 536 

Map of Kilkenny 537 

Ruins at Kells C. Heaviside 537 

St. Catharine's Abbey J. Egan. Evans 539 

Tower and Cross at Kilree J. Egan. Bastin 540 

Kells Abbey — General View J. Egan. Landells 540 

Jerpoint, from the river After Bartlett 54^ 

Jerpoint Abbey, South J. Egan. Wakefield 542 

Interior View of Jerpoipt Abby J. Egan. Walmsley 543 

Shee's House, in which the Confederate Parliament Avas held J. Egan. Evans 544 

The Black Abbey J. Egan. Delamotte 544 

Chair of St. Kiernan J. Egan. Evans 54S 

St. Canice's Cathedral J. Egan. Evans 545 

The Well of St. Canice J. Egan. Gilks 54& 

The Butt's Cross J. Egan. Bastin 547 

The Franciscan Friary 548 

Round Tower at Tulloherin J. Egan. Evans .' 549 

Woodstock Demesne and Bridge G. F. Sargent. T. Williams 550 

Lodge School at Woodstock G. F. Sargent. Miss Williams. ... 550 

Map of Limerick 55 1 

City of Limerick 55i 

Druidical Remains — Cromlech at Altoir J. Windele. Landells 552 

Druidical Remains J. Windele. Landells 552 

Druidical Temple J. Windele. Gilks 552 

King John's Castle, Limerick 553 

Cathedral of St. Mary J. H. Mulcahy. Wakefield ■. . . 554 

St. Mungret's Priory J. Humphreys. Landells 554 

Treaty Stone . 555 

Carrig-o-Gunnel 556 

Home of Gerald Griffin T. C. Croker. Miss Williams 556 

Augustinian Abbey, Adare W. H. Gibson. G. F. Smith 557 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii 

NAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE 

Shannid Castle and Rath J. Windele. Green 558 

Black Castle at Lough Gur T. C. Croker. Walmsley 558 

New Church at Lough Gur J. Windele. Gilks 559 

The Mass Rock. . .i T. C. Croker. T. Williams 560 

Round Tower and Ruins at Croom J. Windele. Landells 560 

Askeaton Abbey W. H. Gibson. Morse 561 

Church at Killmallock T. C. Croker. Jackson 562 

Dominican Friary T. S. Prout. Landells 563 

Tomb of William Smith O'Brien 564 

Map of Kildare 565 

Carbery Castle J. Filmer 565 

Round Tower and Cross at Kildare 566 

Cathedral of Kildare 567 

Ancient Castle of the Geraldines 568 

Carton, Seat of the Duke of Leinster 569 

White's Castle and Athy Bridge A. Nicholl. Bastin 571 

Salmon Leap, Leixlip G. F. Sargent. Whimper 572 

Map of Londonderry 5 73 

Londonderry 573 

Salmon Leap, Coleraine 575 

Gate of Derry H. Gastineau. Evans 577 

Walker's Monument H. Gastineau. Evans 577 

Pennyburn Mill H. Gastineau. Evans 578 

Map of Clare 579 

Coast at Kilkee After Bartlett. J. H. Kubler 579 

Cliffs at Moher J. O. Davidson 581 

Chapel of St. Camin W. F. Wakeman. Evans 582 

Natural Bridges at Ross After Bartlett. Bross 583 

Inchiquin Castle Roberts 584 

Lion's Head Rock . . J. O. Davidson. R. Sclielling 585 

Quin Abbey 586 

Cratloe Castle W. F. Wakeman. Evans 587 

Inniscattery — Round Tower and Ruins ' 588 

St. Senanus' Oratory 588 

Map of Down 589 

Grey Abbey, Interior 589 

Downpatrick Cathedral J. H. Burgess. Evans 590 

Ruins at Knockbreda Church A. Nicholl. Smith 590 

Remains at Moville Abbey A. Nicholl. Bastin 591 

Grey Abbey J. H. Burgess. Evans 591 

Ruined Arch, Grey Abbey 592 

Killclief Castle Cammeyer 592 

St. Colman's Cathedral, Dromore 593 

Ardglass — Tower Cammeyer 594 

Ardglass — Tower Cammeyer 594 

Dundrum Castle .' J. H. Burgess. Jackson 595 

Bridge, ToUymore Park A. Nicholl. Landells 595 

Tomb of John Mitchel 50 

Pulpit from which Mitchel's father preached 597 

Narrow Water Castle J- H. Burgess. Bastin 598 

Newry River T. Gilks 599 

Donoughmore Church and Graveyard ■ 600 

Map of Tipperary 602 

Rock and Ruins of Cashel W. F. Wakeman. Jackson 603 

St. Mary's Church, Clonmel G. DuNoyer. Delamotte 603 

St. Patrick's Well J- Egan. Green 603 

Carrick-on-Suir T. Heaviside 604 

Cahir Castle G. DuNoyer. Landells 603 

Turret of Cahir Castle ....... G. DuNoyer. Evans 605 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



NAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. P.\GE 

Cahir Castle, from Southeast Heaviside 606 

Tubrid Church — Grave of Geoffrey Keating G. DuNoyer. Sly 607 

Golden Bridge W. F. Wakeman. Walmsley 607 

Towers on the Rock J. S. Prout. Mason 607 

Athassel Abbey W. F. AVakeman. Landells 608 

Entrance to Athassel G. F. Sargent. T. Gilks 60S 

Entrance to Cormac's Chapel J. S. Prout. Mason 609 

Cormac's Chapel After Bartlett. Bross 6og 

Rock of Cashel, distant view, southeast J. S. Prout. A. J. Mason 609 

Cormac's Chapel, Interior , After Bartlett. Bross '. . . 610 

Tomb of Miler Magrath.. J. S. Prout. J. Walmsley 611 

Hore Abbey W. F. Wakeman. Sly 612 

Hore Abbey, Interior , W. F. Wakeman. Mason 612 

Holy Cross Abbey After Bartlett 613 

Holy Cross, Interior ■ 614 

Monk's Rest — Holy Cross J". Egan. Evans 614 

Stalactite Curtain, Mitchelstown Cave A. Nicholl. Bastin 615 

Chamber in Middle Cave, Mitchelstown A. Nicholl. Green 615 

Edward's Bed — Cromlech on Galtee More T. C. Croker. Sly 616 



INTRODUCTION. 




S^ROM the earliest period geographers and historians have directed 
attention to Ireland, not less for commercial success and advantages 
of position than for the fertility of the soil and the salubrity of her 
climate. From Tacitus and Ptolemy, in the first and second century 
of Christianity,''' to Orosius in the fifth, Venerable Bede in the eighth, 
Giraldus Cambrensis in the twelfth, and Edmund Spenser in the 
sixteenth, we have allusions to the sea-port characteristics, the cli- 
mate, and the scenery of " the very ancient isle." f 

Isidore, following Orosius, states that Ireland was inferior in size to Britain, 
but, from its situation, of greater fertility ; and Bede says " Ireland is much 
superior to Britain, both in the salubrity and serenity of the atmosphere." Gi- 
raldus Cambrensis questions the statement of Bede as to serenity, but with little 
reason, as he almost immediately proceeds to illustrate the fact by stating that 
" Ireland, lying at equal distances between the cold of Iceland and the heat of 
Spain, with its temperature moderated from these opposite quarters, the country 
is happily favored both in having a temperate climate and a wholesome air." 

Following the Anglo-Norman invaders, Gerald Barry, better known as Gi- 
raldus Cambrensis (of Wales), accompanied Prince (afterwards king) John in the 
capacity of secretary to Ireland in ii85, and his misrepresentations of the char- 
acter, manners, and customs of the Irish people have been a fruitful source of 



* Even before Tacitus, who speaks of the harbors of Ireland being more frequented than those of Britain, the phi- 
losopher Artemidorus, who flourished one hundred years before Christianity, speaks of " eleven illustrious cities in 
Ireland." 

t Ogygia — very ancient isle — alluded to by Plutarch, Life of Solon. 

I xix 



XX INTRODUCTION. 

comment and correction on the part of subsequent historians and antiquarians. 
A churchman of education, travel, ability, and unweening ostentation, and also a 
voluminous author, the desire to display his extensive knowledge and observation 
found utterance in much — outside of political and personal misrepresentation of the 
people — of a really interesting character. To the natural beauties of Ireland he 
made suggestive reference. " Separated," he says, " from the rest of the known 
world, not only by its situation, but by the objects out of the ordinary course of 
nature contained in it, Ireland seems to be nature's especial repository, where she 
stores up her most remarkable and precious treasures." * Some of these objects 
he points out : " Here you may see standing waters on the tops of the mountains, 
for pools and lakes are found on the summits of lofty and steep hills. There are, 
however, in some places, very beautiful plains, though of limited extent in compari- 
son with the woods." f Again he speaks of the fascinating inland waters and the 
securely romantic places of retreat and refuge of the native chiefs : " This island 
is also especially remarkable for a great number of beautiful lakes, abounding in 
fish, and surpassing in size those of any other countries I have visited. These lakes 
encompass some slightly elevated spots, most delightfully situated,, virhich for the 
sake of security, and because they are inaccessible except by boats, the lords of 
the soil appropriate as their places of refuge and seats of residence, where they 
raise their harvests." | 

Edmund Spenser received from Queen Elizabeth over three thousand acres 
of land in Cork, confiscated from the Earl of Desmond. He was, consequently, 
eagerly in favor of a free use of the sword, and the exercise of unsparing violence 
in the treatment of the natives. He had a natural cupidity also, which was in no- 
wise abated by the desire of permanent establishment in a country which he could 
thus describe : " And sure it is yet a more beautiful and sweet country as any is 
under heaven, being stored throughout with many goodly rivers, replenished with 
all sorts of fish abundantly, sprinkled with many sweet islands and goodly lakes, 
like little inland seas, that will carry even ships upon their waters ; adorned with 
goodly woods even fit for building houses and ships, so commodiously, as that if 
some princes in the world had them, they would soon hope to be lord of all the 
seas, and ere long of all the world ; also full of very good ports and havens open- 

* Topography of Ireland, chap. ii. \Ibid., chap. iv. % Chap. vii. 



INTRODUCTION. xxi 

ing upon England, inviting us to come unto them to see what excellent commodi- 
ties that country can afford ; besides the soyle it selfe most fertile, fit to yield all 
kind of fruit that shall be committed thereunto. And lastly, the heavens most 
milde and temperate, though somewhat more moist than the parts towards the 
east." 

The allusion to the extent of the lakes surpassing anything elsewhere seen by 
Giraldus had especial reference, among others, to Lough Neagh, the. legend of 
which, as related by him, suggested, more than six centuries later, the verse 
in Moore's famous melody commencing — 

"On Lough Neagh 's banks, as the fisherman strays." 

Neagh is the largest lake in Great Britain, indeed it is one of the largest 
in Europe, being only exceeded in extent by Geneva in Switzerland, Ladoga 
in Russia, and Vener in Sweden. Other loughs (or lakes) as Corrib, Mask, 
Conn, Erne, Derg, Ree, Killarney — some of them little less in extent than Lough 
Neagh — embrace, as Cambrensis says, numerous beautiful islands, and are more 
celebrated for various degrees of wild and enchanting scenery, and for human 
interest associated with historical and romantic events of the past. Killarney, 
which is a synonym all over the world for the beautiful and poetical in lake scene- 
ry, needs no particular mention in this place, but others less known are deemed 
of equal, if not more attractive grandeur. Mr. Henry David Inglis, the persis- 
tent and observant Scottish traveler, with all the glories of Europe, from Switzer- 
land to the Isles of Achill, and from Norway and Sweden to the Sierra Moreno, 
in his mind's eye, confidently asserted " that the Lower Lough Erne, take it all 
in all, was the most beautiful lake in the three kingdoms ; and but for the majestic 
Alpine outline that bounds the horizon on the upper part of Lake Leman, Lake 
Leman itself could not contend in beauty with this little-visited lake in the County 
of Fermanagh." In sombre " dim religious " contrast to Erne is another Ulster lake, 
Derg, famous as the locality of " Saint Patrick's Purgatory," and the most widely 
known of the Irish lakes during the mediaeval era. Loughs Conn, Mask, and Cor- 
rib, in Connaught, are splendid sheets of water, presenting combinations of grand 
mountain and island scenery. Corrib is next in extent to Lough Neagh, and in 
scenery is accounted one of the finest in Europe. It was the opinion of the late 



xxii INTRODUCTION. 

Rev. Caesar Otway, author of some excellent " Sketches of Travel in Ireland," 
that " if such a lake were in Scotland, or indeed anywhere else in Europe, it would 
be covered with steamboats and yachts, and there would be hotels and accommo- 
dations on its shores ; and a country as rich, if not richer, than Cumberland would 
be opened out and planted and built upon." It presents a noble area of water, ex- 
tending in a sinuous manner a distance of nearly thirty miles, studded with islands, 
some fertile, others rugged with rocks; " some embattled with the ruins of an old 
fortress ; some made holy by the crumbling remains of a still older church." These 
islands contain about one thousand acres of arable land. Next in extent is the 
great Lough Derg, an expansion of the Shannon, with bold and elevated banks, 
and "screened with magnificent mountain scenery" toward the south. Other crag- 
encircled gems of water there are, like Killarney, of much less extent, such as 
Gougane Barra, in the County Cork, and Glendalough, Luggelaw, Dan, and 
Bray, in the County Wicklow, which are of exceeding beauty, consecrated to lay 
and legend, and of great fame. 

As Ireland has the largest lakes, it also has the largest river in the united 
kingdoms — the historic Shannon — ^which, rising in the wild district of Glangavelin 
in the County Cavan, embosoms itself in Lough Allen, from the confines of 
which, between the mountains of Sleevenerrin and Dowbally, it comes forth 
refreshed, expands into several lakes, whirls and foams by Castle-Connell in a 
series of rapids — with which the Swiss Geisbach cannot compare for grandeur and 
effect — drains seven thousand square miles in eleven counties of the four prov- 
inces, swallows numerous picturesque tributaries, reflects on its noble current, 
besides a number of places dear to memory and renown, the towns and towers 
of Athlone and Limerick. It is the largest island river on the globe, and con- 
veys a larger body of water to the sea than any continental river of the same 
extent. It was known to Ptolemy as Semes, to Orosius as Sccna, and to Spenser, 
in the sixteenth century, as Shenan. Fifteen miles below Limerick it deepens 
and widens, becomes an immense arm of the sea, and joins the Atlantic sixty 
miles distant. ' Many rivers there are whose chroniclers and "sweet recorders," 
the bards, dispute the right of the Shannon to the sovereignty of queen river 
of Ireland ; and their claims are sustained by everj^ possible variety of scenic 
beauty, antiquarian lore, valorous action, pathetic history, and captivating legend 



INTRODUCTION. xxiii 

— by everything, in fact, save extent. Spenser, in his episode of the Marriage of 
the Thames and Medway '^' introduces the principal rivers of Ireland : 

" Ne thence the Irish rivers absent were ; 
Since no less famous than the rest they be." 

Three of the principal rivers of the south, which unite about five miles above 
the city of Waterford, he happily describes as the "Three Renowmed Brethren." 

"The first the gentle Suir, that, making way 
By sweet Clonmel, adorns rich Waterford ; 
The next, the stubborn Nore, whose waters gray 
By fair Kilkenny and Rosseponte board ; 
The third, the goodly Barrow, which doth hoard 
Great heaps of salmons in his deep bosom : 
All which, long sundred, do at last accord 
To join in one, ere to the sea they come ; 
So, flowing all from one, all one at last become." 

There also was 

"The spreading Lee, that, like an island fair 
Encloseth Cork with his divided flood," 

but which is more widely celebrated by Father Francis Mahony's 

" Bells of Shandon 
That sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee," 

and send echoes over land and ocean which thrill the heart of every native of 
"the beautiful city " to the ends of the earth. In his poem of "The Rivers," 
Thomas Davis recalls the memories and wonders of the northern and southern 
Black waters : 

" There's a far-famed Blackwater that runs to Lough Neagh, 
There's a fairer Blackwater that runs to the sea." 

The one he calls "the glory of Ulster," with its heroic and patriotic reminiscences 
of Benburb and Owen Roe O'Neill, the shrines of Armagh and the church of Dun- 
gannon ; and the other, with its gorgeous turrets, scholastic echoes of saintly Lis- 
more, splendid mountains, rich woodlands, trees and flowers, he rapturously hails 

* The Faerie Queene, book iv., canto xi. 



xxiv INTRODUCTION. 

as the '• beauty of Munster," the Eden of Ireland ! In Ulster " the fishy fruitful 
Bann " forms the only outlet of Lough Neagh, which receives eight rivers. The 
valley of the Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, presents a panorama of beauty, 
cultivation, and activity, amid a variety of hill, dale, wood, and water that is not 
surpassed by any tract of the same extent in the British empire. The other 
important northern river, the Foyle, a notable and noble stream, formed by the 
junction of the Finn and Mourne, flows by the foot of the city of Londonderry, 
which is picturesquely seated on a conical hill rising about one hundred and 
twenty feet above high-water mark. Leinster is rich with rivers and streams, 
besides those alluded to in Spenser's verse, of vital historical interest, perpetual 
scenic splendor and romantic association, broken by dazzling cascades and water- 
falls, and reunited by lovely lakes. Principal of these are the Boyne, the Slaney, 
the Liffey, the Avoca, the Vartry, the Bray, and the Dodder, all except the first 
and last rising in Wicklow, and adding life and beauty to some of the most de- 
lightful vales and glens in the world. 

In mountains Ireland maintains the supremacy accorded to her for possession 
of the Shannon and Loughs Neagh, Corrib, and Erne. There is no mountain in 
England that lifts its head so high into the clouds as Carran-Tual, one of MacGil- 
licuddy's Reeks, in Kerry. The highest peak in England is that of Scawfell, 3,229 
feet. Mangerton was formerly esteemed the highest in Ireland, but surveys have 
determined that Carran-Tual is 658 feet higher. The Reeks rise almost perpendi- 
cularly to a height of 3,414 feet, overshadowing the waters of Killarney, surrounded 
by other mountains of scarcely less lofty character, their upper portions clothed 
with purple heath, while rich foliage, among which the arbutus is prominent, luxu- 
riantly covers the lake shore. The mountain ranges are principally confined to 
the coast counties of Kerry, Galway, Mayo, Donegal, Down, and Wicklow ; but 
Kippure, at the border of Dublin and Wicklow, and at the head of the Dodder 
river, rises to an altitude of 2,473 feet, about the height of the loftiest peak of 
the Alleghany range in Pennsylvania, nearly nine hundred feet higher than 
the range of the Blue Mountains, running in the north-east portion of the same 
State, which is broken through at the New Jersey line by the Water Gap of the 
Delaware, and half as high again as the Highlands of the Hudson. Lugnaquilla, 
the highest of the Wicklow range, is 3,039 feet. Mount Leinster, dividing 



INTRODUCTION. xxv 

Wexford and Carlow, is 2,610 feet. In Waterford, the Knockmeledown Summits 
on the northwestern border, and the Commeraghs are noble features ; and in 
Tipperary, Sleive-na-man and Keeper mountains, with the Galtees overlooking- 
both ranges and reaching a height of 3,000 feet, form a splendid group, surround- 
ing a country of exceeding agricultural fruitfulness, embracing the famous Golden 
Vale. From east to west Cork is picturesquely mountainous ; the Mourne 
mountains, in Down, and the great Donegal range are famous for the boldness 
and grandeur of their scenery ; while in Mayo and Galway the mountain aspect 
of Ireland takes perhaps its wildest and most overpowering character — inspired 
by the Connemara region in the latter county, and the range of which Nephin 
and Croagh Patrick are the principal in the former. A recent authority says 
there are over fifty mountains in Ireland, each exceeding 2,000 feet in height. 

Surrounding all this vast accumulation of beautiful scenery, mountains, lakes, 
rivers, and glens, within an area of 32,524 square mules, far less than the size of 
the State of South Carolina, is the everlasting sea. With the exception of the 
east, the whole coast faces the Atlantic. The stupendous force with which the 
waves rush toward the coast is broken by a large number of islands — there are 
one hundred and ninety-six in all — which stand forth, as Mr. Walker says, "like 
outlying fortresses, defending the sacred island with their rocky cliffs, generally 
sublinje in their altitude, and singularly picturesque in the fantastic shapes into 
which they have been worn." A glance at the map will show how the coast 
has been sapped and worn away into inlets, estuaries, and bays ; giving it a most 
remarkably indented appearance. Owing to this circumstance the coast line of 
the little island is immense, extending 2,300 miles. The ocean views all round 
the coast are truly sublime ; the waves in their incessant restlessness taking 
majestic, wild, and beautiful forms that lift the gazer into wordlessness at their 
eternal variety. It is difficult to express the thoughts and sensations that inspire 
or oppress us — we can only unite with the words of the royal psalmist, " Wonder- 
ful are the surges of the sea! " and, standing on 

" the high hills that vizor ' 

Thy wreck-making shore," 

feel as the poet felt when he wrote his famous apostrophe : 



xxvi INTRODUCTION. 

" How humbling to one with a heart and a soul, 
To look on thy greatness, and list to its roll ; 
To think how that heart in cold ashes shall be, 
While the voice of eternity rises from thee ! 

" Yes ! where are the cities of Thebes and of Tyre ? 
Swept from the nations like sparks from the fire ! 
The glory of Athens, the splendor of Rome ? 
Dissolved — and forever — like dew in thy foam. 

" But thou art almighty — eternal — sublime — 
Unweakened — unwasted — twin-brother of Time ! 
Fleets, tempests nor nations thy glory can bow; 
As the stars first beheld thee, still chainless art thou." * , 

It i.s claimed that Ireland is pre-eminently a land of ruins. Certainly no- 
country of the same extent contains so numerous a collection of remains which 
incontrovertibly illustrate a past of excessive human thought and action ; of deep- 
seated devotion and religious observance, both in pagan and Christian times ; of 
tribal, feudal, political, polemical, and national conflicts and emergencies ; of heroic 
effort, and, however directed, of almost superhuman energy. It is suggested, and 
with truth, that considering the sparsity of the population before the era of the 
"Reformation," reaching back into the cryptic dimness of antiquity, so. far as 
history can enlighten us, it is astonishing to find so many places distinguished by 
monuments of the remote past — cromlechs, caves, cairns, pillars, raths, forts, towers, 
sculptured crosses, churches, castles. All these imply the existence of a race 
of people more or less skilled in the art of building, and being so far elevated 
above the barbaric state as to build for futurity, to erect monuments and sculptured 
stones which posterity might admire and read. They imply combination, govern- 
ment, intelligence, reverence for the past, and a desire to perpetuate the memory 
of great deeds to coming ages. 

In an earnest plea to the Irish clergy and gentlemen of education and taste 
for the zealous preservation of every remnant of antiquity, as evidence of national 
character, and of the dignified exercise of intellect and justice from the most 
remote period, Thomas Davis asks, " Are there no Brehon's chairs on her hills to- 

* John .\ugustus Shea, Poems, 1S46. 



INTRODUCTION. xxvii 

tell more clearly than Vallancey or Davies how justice was administered here ? 
Do not you meet the Druid's altar, and the Guebre's tower in every barony 
almost, and the Ogham stones in many a sequestered spot? " The question thus 
put in justification of the plea is answered by every traveler and tourist, and their 
observations may be summed up in that of one of the most recent writers,* when 
he says, " Go where we will, not only over the great plains, but amidst the 
remotest glens, and mountain gorges, and rocky cliffs, and wooded islands, we find 
those marvelous traces of the haunts of mighty men, of gigantic power, of divine 
■worship, and heroic deeds." Indeed the vast number of these monuments has at 
once incited the wonder of the thoughtful, and made their materials available to 
the building necessities of some districts, thus contributing to their still further 
demolition at the hands of the careless and the ignorant. Davis had seen pigs 
housed in the piled friezes of a broken church, cows stabled in the palaces of the 
Desmonds, corn threshed on the floors of abbeys, and sheep tenanting the royal 
corridors of Aileach. Worse than that: he wrote, " The peasant lugs down a pillar 
for his sty, the farmer for his gate, the priest for his chapel, the minister for his 
glebe." 

In the same key Mr. Wakeman,* referring to the remains of the Paganf 
•era, says, they are found in considerable numbers, particularly in the remote 
parts of the island, where the population was small and the absence of " mod- 
ern improvement " suffered them to stand unmolested, save by the hand of 
time. 

Thus many of the ruins were ruined. Sir William Wilde in his catalogue of 
the Royal Irish Academy indicates in a brief but comprehensive manner both the 
character and purposes of the most primitive monuments, many of which are 
elaborately sculptured with artistic skill ; and of the people whose feelings, taste, 
and workmanship they represent. It may be only necessary to say in advance, 
that while history and tradition seem to have lost mention of the fact, the testi- 
mony of the tombs, from which cinerary urns, containing ashes and burned bones 
have been exhumed in every part of Ireland, shows that the custom of cremation 
and urn-burial was a very general, though not the only, mode of sepulture in 

* Mr. John A. Walker, author of a very useful and intelligent Hand-book of Ireland. 
f Anhaolo^a Hibertiica. A Hand-book of Irish Antiquities, Pagan and Christian. 



xxviii INTRODUCTION. 

very ancient Ireland.* " The small square stone grave," says Wilde, " contain- 
ing a single cinerary urn, placed beneath the surface of the soil, and so frequentV 
exposed by the spade ; the collection of urns, apparently marking the site of an 
ancient cemetery, possibly that of a battle-field ; the grassy mound, and the massive- 
cromlech, breaking the level outline of the landscape ; the large stone circle, or the 
oblong inclosure, popularly termed a giant's grave ; the huge, temple-like barrow, 
with its enveloping mound of stones or earth (the western type of the true Orien- 
tal pyramid), the simple rude pillar-stone, the Ogham-inscribed monolith, or the 
sculptured cross ; the wayside monument, the horizontal grave-stone, the stone 
coffin, the modern vault or stately mausoleum, the carved recumbent figure in the 
decorated abbey, as well as the tablet in the modern church — all afford abundant 
examples of the tise of stone materials in sepulchral and funeral rites, and evince 
the piety and reverence with which the dead were regarded in Ireland from the 
earliest time." This veneration for the dead is a characteristic of old races, an. 
ancient custom of Catholic nations, amounting to a passion among Celtic peo- 
ples, and justifies Frederick Ozanam in saying that it is the mark of a healthful, 
moral race, clinging tenderly to its heritage of family pride and tradition. The 
practical illustration of this respectful sentiment is strikingly noticeable among the 
Irish and French. Among that other old branch of the human family, the Basque 
people, a neglected grave is seldom seen. Villages rival each other in care and 
decoration of their grave-yards, and "no one enters the church without having 
first knelt upon the tomb of his ancestors to pray." 

Teeming and crowded as Ireland is with every variety of natural scenery^ 
wonderful and romantic, strikingly bold or sweetly pastoral, and raimented as she 
is with a cheerful and eye-consoling verdure of emerald, still is she undoubtedly a 
land of ruins. And the ruins are so blended with all that is beautiful, or grand, or 
exquisite in mountain or lake localities, that the mind — in presence of the glorious 
triumphs of nature, yearly renewed in freshness and beauty, and the relentless 
triumphs of time over the labors of man, yearly falling to decay — is compelled into 
a contemplative mood. In no other country, perhaps, is the intelligent traveler so 
frequently called on to make a sort of sombre remonstrance with himself — restrain- 

* See interesting chapter on Monuments, Graves, etc., in The Oiigin and History of Irish A'aincs of Places, by P. W- 
Joyce, A.M., M.R.I. A. ; also Rev. CKsar Otvvay's Sketches in.Erris and Tyrawley, etc. 



INTRODUCTION. xxix 

ino- the ecstatic delight and astonishment inspired by the natural beauties under the 
sense of desolation conjured up by the haggard presence of some crumbling 
reminder of former violence, splendor, or devotion. Yet these latter are of deep 
and wide interest. As history is but the labored effort of intellect and research to 
bring the past face to face with us, these actual pieces of the past possess a sig- 
nificance which the antiquarian may in some instances overestimate, but which the 
artist and historical student cannot undervalue. We cannot fling aside these old 
remnants of renown. Davis well says, "he who tramples on the past does not 
create a future. The same ignorant and vagabond spirit which made him a 
destructive, prohibits him from creating for posterity." We cannot ignore the 
past; and the past is all ruins in various stages of restoration or decay. Hence' 
they compel fascinating sensations and solemn inspirations ; they have their 
unwritten histories in the fancy and imagination, and fill up the skeleton forms 
presented to us by chronologers and annalists : they give an impression of reality 
to the filmy rumors and shadowy pageants of tradition. 

The eloquence of ruins is eminently persuasive' to even the most sluggish intel- 
lect. It takes us back through the centuries as naught else can, and excites us, 
by its subtle confidences and strange echoes from bygone generations, to the 
creation of the passions, motives, and exigencies which have resulted in the all- 
controlling influences that surround us. The ashes, so to speak, rekindle the 
flame which had produced it. Then the meaner worldly passions shrink out of 
sight before these granite spectres of ambition and power — these sombre preachers 
of the insecurity of all worldly force. It is Charles Lamb who recalls to mind the 
affecting pleasure of wandering at will through the deserted halls of some fine old 
building. The pleasure is in the moral elevation over the human passions of envy 
and vanity ; for, as he suggests, the traces of extinct grandeur admit of a better 
passion than envy ; and contemplations on the great and good, whom we fancy 
in succession to have been its inhabitants, weave for us illusions incompatible 
with the bustle of modern occupancy and foolish vanities of present aristocracy. 

The temperature of the climate and fertility of the soil, so early ascertained 
and recorded by the ancient writers alluded to, have done wonders in producing 
that exceeding verdure and freshness, and fascinating beauty of effect in Irish 
scenery which have inspired not only native poets, orators, and artists, but drawn 



XXX INTRODUCTION. 

the most eloquent appreciation and delight from all — French, German, English, 
Scotch, and American — who have written on the subject from the days of Giraldus, 
or Raleigh and Spenser, to the present. While variously commenting on the 
condition of the people, the rise or fall of trade or commercial enterprise in certain 
towns, and the neglect or disappearance of agricultural industry in the rural dis- 
tricts ; or contrasting the brightness and poverty of the peasantry, or balancing 
the numerous social, mercantile, political, or polemical questions of the day, all of 
these writers unite in dwelling with respect and admiration on the natural resources 
and attractions of the land, its superior fertility^ exquisite, wild or grand scenery, 
the extent of its ruins, the mystery of its towers, the richness of its antiquities, 
and the splendor and beauty of the streets and buildings of the capital. 

" Nature," says a distinguished French writer who gave extended personal atten- 
tion to the social, political, and religious aspects of Ireland some thirty years ago. 
" nature seems to have endowed Ireland with her most munificent gifts. She 
enriched her bosom {entrailles) with precious metals, and poured with a bounteous 
hand upon her rocky foundation the most fertile soil in the world. She has given 
to her maritime commerce the noblest harbors, fourteen of which have capacity to 
receive vessels of war ; and, as if she had destined her for a grand fortune, placed 
her west of the continent, as an advanced guard, trustee of the keys of the ocean, 
commissioned to open to European vessels the path to America ; and to present to 
American vessels the first European port. Having thus richly endowed her, she 
has also labored to as richly embellish her. She has designed her mountains in 
every variety of beaut)-, interspersed her valleys with meadows and lakes, and 
having covered all in a brilliant robe of verdure, desired that she be called, in the 
language of the poet, Green Erin ! the beautiful emerald ! " '^ 

The atmosphere of Ireland is peculiarly adapted not only to produce the 
wealth of emerald vegetation which is so characteristic of the land, but, under 
favorable circumstances, to create those varying and sympathetic cloud-effects 
which seem to identify themselves with, and add so much to every form and 
aspect of landscape. A writer in an English publication, depicting some of the 
features of Irish scenery, makes suggestive reference to this fact, as well as to 
the concomitant pleasures of color and perfume resulting from the same cause. 

* L' Irlanik, SociaU, Politique ct Keli^icuse. Par Guslave de Beaumont. Palis, 1839. Vol. i., pp. iSS, 1S9. 



INTRODUCTION. xxxi 

Alluding to the absence of what may be called the statuesque in nature, he thinks 
it is compensated for by the infinite softness and tenderness, and by a sweetness 
almost pathetic in the beauty of an Irish landscape. Each feature, however 
uncultivated, is soft ; each hue, however rich, is free from glare or harshness. 

" The atmosphere," he says, " which in Switzerland so often causes every 
giant mountain to look like a great theatric painted scene, cut, as if in cardboard, 
against the blue sky, in Ireland, on the contrary, makes every object, from the 
barren rocks of Connemara to the rich valleys of Kildare, equally soft and 
shadowy. Nothing seems defiant or sharp after a hundred yards' distance, just 
as nothing looks fresh or gaudy after a few months' exposure. The mountains 
three miles off seem vaguely grand. The tower built a century ago looks older 
than the pyramids. Another peculiarity of Ireland is that the broad and distant 
lines of the greater part of its scenery, the lignes larges with which it is sketched 
by nature, and the absence of minor accidents of ground of which we have 
spoken, all result in giving to the scenery of the sky a greater prominence than 
it usually possesses elsewhere — very often a greater prominence to the eye of 
the beholder than any of the landscape below. And what a sky it is ! Surely 
the loveliest in its rare moments of sunlight, the mournfullest in its many hours 
■of gloom, of all the heavens that overreach the world. Irish skies do not glare 
•and dazzle, they do not laugh out scornfully in derision of our care-laden hearts, 
nor frown and threaten, big with storms and thunder. They smile rather than 
laugh on the brightest summer's morning, and on the dreary winter's eve they 
gather their long gray mantles, and hang motionless and mourning over the 
■dead world, while the wind wails in bursts of grief, rising and dropping again like 
the death keen heard across a lonely moor. Irish skies are soft and beautiful ; 
and Irish trees, though somewhat monotonous in tone and form, are wonderfully 
luxuriant in foliage, each leaf a large one of its kind; and Irish herbage is a thrice- 
piled carpet, which the richest palace of the East cannot match for splendor. 
And besides the hues of the dark green trees and the emerald grass, nature, as 
if jealous to supply the color to earth which she denies to the sky, has dressed 
the hillsides with imperial robes of purple heather and golden gorse — whole 
miles of Tyrian purple, whole acres of golden fringe. To stand among the 
Wicklow Mountains in August, is to behold a display of pure color, not due to 



xxxii INTRODUCTION. 

the brilliancy of the atmosphere, but to the actual hues of the objects themselves^ 
such as it has never been our fortune to see elsewhere, even amid the emerald 
fields and yellow sands of Egypt. Lastly, there is another peculiarity of Ireland, 
which we suspect, has some share in securing for the country many pleasing, 
though half-conscious memories. Ireland (remote, of course, from the towns 
and villages) is the land par excellence of natural perfumes. Doubtless, the 
moisture of the climate tends to make the odors of vegetation both more pun- 
gent and also more apt to extend themselves in the atmosphere. A hayfield, or 
beanfield, or a lime-tree in blossom, are thus perceptible in Ireland Avhere distance 
would quite efface their sweetness elsewhere. Often we have known the haw- 
thorn in a large park so to impregnate the air, that an open window admitted a 
gust of perfume as from an orange orchard in Italy. To drive along a common 
country road in Ireland on a fine day is to pass through a range of delicious 
odors, varying according to the month ; violets, or hawthorn, or clover, or the 
rich, luscious gorse. Even the meadow-sweet in the ditch is often sufficient to 
perfume the whole road for half a mile together."""' 

To reproduce the colors which add such an inexpressible charm to the verdure 
and scenery of Ireland is impossible in a work of this nature ; but the outlines 
of the chief features of famous and picturesque localities or objects delineated 
with spirit, fidelity, and an artistic appreciation of nature in the disposition of light 
and shade, convey ideas of grandeur, beauty, and effect which are everywhere, 
at this day, accepted as invaluable promoters of intellectual and artistic culture. 
Such portraiture of the physical or material world extends our knowledge by mak- 
ing us conversant, in an agreeable and attractive manner, with the forms and 
characteristics of the most remarkable historical monuments or exquisite works of 
nature all over the face of the habitable earth. The reproduction. In an intelligi- 
ble form, of any place where man has dwelt, or where man has penetrated. Is 
interesting to man ; much more everything or anything relating to those older 
seats of life which may be deemed not only the cradles of humanity but the nurs- 
eries of human energy ; where the races halted for centuries, and In the strug- 
gles within circumscribed boundaries developed mind and muscle, thews of brain 
and body, confidence In the earth and faith in Heaven, which gave them devo- 



INTRODUCTION. xxxiii 

tion and courage to go forth and conquer unknown regions, create new nations 
and peoples, and make practical constitutions out of the crotchets of bygone 
philosophers. 

Ireland is one of those cradles and nurseries, and the memories associated 
with her, not less than the intrinsic beauty of her scenery and the interest attach- 
ino- to her archseological remains and historical monuments, impress us with a 
confident belief that the work now presented will be widely acceptable. 

Picturesque Ireland is designed to embrace and present all the best and most 
striking features of preceding works on the subject — reproductions of the pictures 
and drawings of eminent artists who have for the last fifty years given such a 
notable impetus to the study of Irish scenery, topography, and antiquities — with 
numerous other views from recent photographs and drawings, especially en- 
graved for the work. 

JOHN SAVAGE. 



KERRY. 




The border land of 
the counties of Cork and 
Kerry, from Glengariff to 
the lake district of Kil- 
larney, embraces a grand 
mountainous tract, partly 
on the coast, where the 

View on the B lack-water from the Bridge. hand of Nature seems tO 

have thrown every form of grandeur, beauty, and romance into a disorder at once 
startling and picturesque. The continuous surprises and general effect baffle the 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



efforts of the pen, while they astonish and delight the eye of even the inost 
skilled and eloquent tourist. One whose felicitous pen has won the admiration 
of his time has declared that the scenes of romantic beauty to be found in the 
deep solitudes of the stupendous cliffs and lofty mountains of the district, the suc- 
cession of glowing and magnificent pictures formed by the combination of rush- 
ing torrent, placid lake, broad sea, and rocky shores, exceed the power of de- 
scription. Passing from Cork into the " Kingdom of Kerry," through a dark 
tunnel of two hundred yards cut through the rocks, one experiences somewhat 
the effect produced by darkening a hall preparatory to the unfolding of sofne 
splendid panorama before his eyes. 

Emerging from the darkness, we are confronted with a scene of wild and stern 
magnificence, on the very brink of an Alpine precipice, the road descending in 
spiral windings, as if Nature, having repented of building a mountain so difficult 
of ascent, wound round it a spiral staircase for the accommodation of man. Gaz- 
ing from the dizzy height — now adown the beetling cliff, now along the tortuous 
road, and away into the far-off valley — the eye rests upon the formidable Kinmare 
River, " the wide embayed Mayre," as Spenser calls it, diminished to a tiny line 
of white in the distance. Nothing can exceed the wild grandeur of the prospect, 
which extends for miles and miles. The road, of which there is a view almost the 
whole way to Kenmare, is admirably constructed, kept in constant repair, and is by 
common consent classed as one of the best in the United Kingdoms. The de- 
scent to Kenmare is gradual, and commands a succession of bold and magnificent 

views. Approaching the town, the noble suspen- 
sion bridge, the only one of any extent in Ireland, 
gracefully spanning the sound, commands attention. 
It is four hundred and ten feet in length, and is 
named after the Marquis of Lansdowne, who, as 
lord of the soil, bore half its cost. Kenmare is a 
small town, but admirably situated at the head of the 
bay. In the vicinity are some beautiful lakes, and 
a visit to the bay where the Blackwater enters it 
will repay the trouble. Near the confluence the 
river is spanned by a lofty bridge of two arches 
which crosses a chasm of great depth. 

The scenery in this locality is highly picturesque, 
the river rushing through a deep ravine, the sides of which are varied by woods 
and rocks. Some twelve miles west on the coast is one of the most remarkable 




Blackwater Bridge. 



KERRY. 



of the Cyclopean remains in Ireland, the Cathavr or fort of Staigue. It consists 
of a circular wall of uncemented stones, about eighteen feet in height, and twelve 
in thickness, inclosing an area of eighty-eight yards in diameter. Upon the in- 
ternal face of the wall are regular flights of steps leading to the top platform, or 
parapet. The doorway is composed of large unhewn stones, and is covered by 
a horizontal lintel. A ditch of twenty-six feet, now nearly filled, defended the 
wall upon the exterior.* A mile west of Kenmare are the ruins of Dunkerron, 
the ancient seat of the O'Sullivan More, and there are several druidical remains, 
circles, dallans,f and cromlechs 
in the neighborhood. 

The road to Killarney {Kill- 
airne, the Church of the Sloes) 
ascends to the rocky defile of 
Windy Gap, when the scenery 
tegins to wear a more majes- 
tic aspect than any yet seen ; 
further on, Looscanagh, a lake 
sleeping under the shadow of 
lofty mountains, is passed ; and 
soon we reach that one point 
which is ever memorable in the 
journey — like Inspiration Point over the Valley of the Yosemite — that at which 
the lakes in all their resplendent beauty first burst iipon the sight. Those who 
enter by any other than the Kenmare road can form but a faint conception 
of the sensation inspired by the magnificence of this first view they have 
missed. From an eminence near the police station, a picturesque castle in min- 
iature, the upper lake in all its splendor lies revealed far, far below, with the 
middle and lower lakes in the distance. Crossing Galway's Bridge, within sound 
of Derrycunnihy Cascade, we pass through the Tunnel under a declivity ofCrom- 
aglan Mountain, and traversing two sides, the west and north, of the base of 
Tore Mountain, reach Tore Cascade. Entering the path to the fall it leads up a 
gravel walk so lined with trees and shrubs — larch, on one side, and holly, birch, 
oak, alder, and arbutus on the other, and judiciously curved that the cascade is 




The Tunnel. 



* Wakeman's Archteologia Flibcrnica, p. loo. A model of this fort is in the Royal Dublin Society. 

f Dallans, pillar-stones variously used as objects of worship, monuments, boundaries, etc. Cromlechs, composed 
of three or more stones forming an inclosure, over which a large stone is laid. They were for sepulchral and sacri- 
ficial uses. 



8 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

concealed until the spectator is immediately under and opposite to it. The water, 
Avhich is supplied from Mangerton and the Devil's Punch Bowl, is forced in a 
sheet of foam over a broken wall of rock some seventy feet high, forming sev- 





eral cascades in 
its progress. On ' '~s- 
each side the pre 
cipitous rocks art ^=i^^ 
covered with lux- '^ '^- 

uriant trees and ferns, which afford 
a fine contrast to the mist and 
spray in which the cascade breaks 
before it resumes its course through 
the deep ra\ine to mingle with the 
waters of the middle lake. 

The small illustration gives a 
the cascade, while the large one presents it in its 
special and more brilliant aspect. Art has been 
effectively called to the aid of Nature here. The op- 
posite hill to the cascade has been elegantly planted, 
and a circuitous path leads to a well-selected eminence, from which a view of the 
middle and lower lakes with the wooded peninsula between can be obtained (p. 20). 
Close over the cascade on the left appears Tore Mountain ; beyond the middle 
lake, Glena ; in the immediate foreeround is the demesne and mansion of Muck- 



ofeneral view 




Rocks on the Kenmare Road. 



KERR Y. 




Tore Cascade. 



ross ; and in 
the distance 
to the right 
the faint out- 
hne of the 
Dingle Hills. 
Black's 
Guide well 
advises the 
\ isitor never 
to omit this 
view from 
Tore Cas- 
cade, as it 
is certainly 
one of the 
finest in Ire- 
land. 1 
Resuming 
the road, it 
is but a short 
distance 
through the 
noble Muck- 
r o s s d e - 
mesne and 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




by the village of Cloghreen to the ruins of Muck- 
1/ ^ -> «=.V ross Abbey. Though neither in extent nor ar- 

chitecture equaling, much less rivaling many mo- 
nastic ruins in Ireland, its seclusion and the beauty 
of its surroundings produce an effect perhaps equal 
to anything in the -country. Situated on a slight 
eminence overhanging the eastern extension of 
the lower lake, in one of the finest parts of the 
Muckross demesne, embosomed in the shade ot 
lofty and venerable ash, oak, elm, yew, and syca- 
more trees — festooned with trailing plants, and 
Tore Cascade. garlanded with ivy of the darkest and most luxu- 

riant foliage — it is, as Willis said, " More beautiful in its loneliness and decay 
than it could have been in its pristine state of neatness and perfection." 

It is indeed a splendid relic of antiquity ; and a more picturesque spot, " where 
erring man might hope to rest," it would be difficult to conceive. The original 
name was the Abbey of Irelough, 'the building at the lake.' It was founded by the 
Mac Carthys, Princes of Desmond, according to the annals of the Four Masters, 
in 1340, on the site of an ecclesiastical structure which existed here from a remote 
era, and which, according to a record in the library 
of Trinity College, Dublin, was destroyed by fire in 
1 192. The present ruins are the remains of the Mon- 
astery and Church of Franciscan Friars, which were re- 
paired in 1602, and subsequently, according to a Latin 
inscription on a stone let into the north wall of the choir, 
in 1626. The building consists principally of two parts, 
the abbey and the church ; the latter being divided into 
three compartments, the choir, the nave, and the south 
transept, from the midst of which rises, on four high 
and slender pointed arches, a square tower thickly draped 
with ivy. The entrance is through a richly decorated doorwa)' of the pointed 
style, luxuriantly overgrown with ivy, and directly opposite is the large eastern 
window. The length of the church is about one hundred feet, by twenty-four m 
width, and the length of the transept thirty-six feet. The interior is filled with 
tombs, the greater number being but slightly elevated above the ground. 
In the center of the choir is a large tomb of modern construction, covering 
the vault in which were interred the Mac Carthys More of the olden times; 




77/6 LhaiutI, Mm/ 1 Si 



KERRY. 



and more recently the O'Donoghues 
More of the Glens. The slab which 
formerly covered the vault is close by, 
lying on the earth without inscription, 
but bearing the arms of the Earl of 
Clancare. On the former tomb the 
following lines are carved : 

" What more could Homer's most illustrious verse, 
Or pompous TuUy's stately prose rehearse, 
Than what this monumental stone contains, 
In death's embrace, Mac Carthy Mor's remains ? 
Hence, reader, learn the sad and certain fate 
That waits on man, spares not the good and great ; 




Mttckross, Eastern Window. 



And while this venerable marble calls 
Thy patriot tear, perhaps, that trickling falls. 
And bids thy thoughts to other days return. 
And with the spark of Erin's glory burn ; 
While to her fame most grateful tributes flow. 
Oh ! ere you turn, one warmer drop bestow ! 
If Erin's chiefs deserve thy generous tear. 
Heir of their worth, O'Donoghue lies here." 



Thanks to Mr. Henry Arthur 
Herbert, M.P., and late Chief 
Secretary for Ireland, the pro- 
prietor, whose taste and vigil- 
ance in the care-taking of these 
interesting remains is entitled 
to gratitude, the abbey is in a 
fair state of preservation. He 
has repaired the foundation and 
parajDets in such a way as not 
Fire-place at Miickross. to impair the gerteral effect of 

antiquity. The building is unroofed, and dank grass and weeds encumber the 
upper portion ; but the ground floor being arched over, and containing the 
kitchen, refectory, infirmary, cellars, and other chambers, is comparatively pro- 
tected from the weather. The capacious fire-place of the kitchen and refectory 
is sufficiently suggestive to indicate that the good fathers recognized the Chris- 




12 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

tian duty of hospitality ; and perhaps also the truth of the axiom put into the 
mouth of the jovial " Friar of orders gray," that 

"Who leads a good life, is sure to live well." 

But in those days the abbey was the hostel, house of entertainment, and succor 
for all wayfarers — whether peers or peasants — for, 

" Whoever passed, be he baron or squire, 
Was free to call at the abbey and stay ; 
Nor guerdon or gift for his lodging pay, 
Although he tarried a week with its holy quire." * 

The recess of this fire-place was taken possession of more than a century and a 
quarter ago by a pilgrim named John Drake, who came "no one knew whence," 
and after a harmless and mysterious life of eleven years there, disappeared as 
suddenly. He braved all weathers in his chimney recess with a blanket and his 
ordinary clothes ; never begged, nor would receive more than a single penny as a 
gratuity ; paid for his fish and potatoes when he purchased them ; never ate out of 
his ' home ; ' had a half-penny and a prayer to bestow on those more needy than 
himself ; rarely if ever went to chapel ; but daily prayed at particular spots in the 
abbey-yard, and cultivated his garden. No one knew the cause of his seclusion. 
He spoke as a penitent of the need of prayer, and one of his maxims was that 
" those who were harmless had a right to be happy." Mrs. Hall adds a feature of 
romance to the mystery by stating "as 'twas told to her," that about ten years 
after Drake's disappearance, a lady of "foreign tongue," with two servants "who 
could not speak English," came and remained at Killarney for many weeks. Hav- 
ing inquired about the pilgrim, she used to weep floods of tears over his couch 
every day, prayed where he had prayed, and distributed abundant alms to all who 
had been kind to him. She would answer no questions, and after much prayer 
and evident penance departed unknown. 

As may be supposed, adds Mrs. Hall, Drake's singular choice of residence has 
given rise to abundant stories, and the mention of his name to any of the guides 
or boatmen will at once • produce a volume of the marvelous. When the man 
made his dwelling in this lonely and awful place — the companion of the dead, living 
among the frightful and half-decayed relics of mortality — it is said his hands were 
small and delicate, his air and manner tranquil and dignified, and his "tongue" was 
not of the south. He appeared to be under forty years of age, and made no 

* The Monks of Kilkrca. 




SCENES AT INNISFAL-LEN AND MUCKROSS. 



14 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

effort to gain a reputation for sanctity. The belief among the peasantr}' is that he 
had committed some crime which demanded desperate atonement, and that his 
penance was to be made within the holy yet haunted walls of Muckross Abbey. 

The abbey presents a singularly picturesque appearance from almost every point 
of view, but it is generally conceded that it is seen to most advantage from the 
south and west, within the precincts of the grove of trees by which it is sur- 
rounded. Here are 

" ■ — deep empty tombs 



And dells and mouldering shrines, with old decay 
Rustic and green, and wide embowering shades 
Shot from the crooked clefts of nodding towers." 

The cloister constitutes the finest part of the Muckross ruins. It is the best 
executed portion of the fabric, and remains in a state of comparative perfection. 
It consists of a quadrangle of forty-six feet, encompassed by a vaulted walk si.x 
feet wide. The a'rcade thus formed embraces twenty-two arches. The pillars and 
arches are formed of a bluish and pale-red marble, producing a gray effect. The 
pillars are finished exactly alike, but the arches vary both in form and number on 
the sides. At two of the contiguous sides they are of the sharp-pointed or Gothic 
form, and are ten in number ; while the corresponding sides contain twelve semi- 
circular arches. How this capricious variet}^ says Isaac Weld, so frequently to be 
observed in the religious buildings of those infant days of art and taste, was first 
introduced, we can now only conjecture. At two of the opposite corners of the 
cloister there are stairs leading to the cells over the vaulted walk, and to the chief 
apartments of the abbey. The latter are in a very dilapidated state, but several 
of the cells remain entire ; and under the little grates by which they were lighted 
one may still see the broad, flat stones upon which the monks offered up their 
orisons, worn and polished by the pressure of many a weary knee. Around the 
summit of the building there was a safe walk, defended by an embattled parapet.* 

The solemn effect of the ecclesiastical remains is greatly heightened by a vener- 
able and magnificent yew-tree, whicli rises like a stately column in the inclosure 
with a circumference of thirteen feet, and branches extending over and covering in 
the entire quadrangle. It is believed to be coeval with the building, and it is not 
unlikely, as the yew is of slow growth, and lives to an immense age. Such is the 
gloominess diffused over the cloister by its thick and dusky foliage that — as Weld 
mentions — the bat is frequently observed flitting through the vaulted arches at 



* Illustrations of the Scenery of Killarney and the Surrounding Country, by Isaac Weld, Esq., M.R.I.A., etc. 



KERRY. 15 

noon-day. The vaults and winding passages of the abbey are still more gloomy 
than the cloister. 

"There, through thick walls, oblique the broken light 
From narrow loop-holes quivers to the sight." 

Lovers of the picturesque will agree that " this obscurity adds much to the effect 
of the ruin, and, combined with the stillness and solitude of deep retirement, the 
fragments of monumental grandeur, and the spectacle of mouldering mortality, 
forms an associa'don highly calculated to inspire the imagination. The mind be- 
comes abstracted from the world. The shade of every waving branch is converted 
to a spectre, and the echoes of the footsteps to the whispering of ideal inhabitants. 
The startled senses distrust their own perception, and the delusion can scarcely be 
dispelled by returning to the cheerful regions of light and life." 

Although it is a matter of speculation as to where the monks who lived and died 
at Muckross were interred, the people point out a rudely constructed vault on the 
exterior of the church, immediately under the eastern window, as the resting-place 
of the holy men who succeeded each other for centuries in religious service here. 
It is known as " The Tomb of the Monks." 

Contemplating these solemn scenes, and impressed with their suggestiveness, our 
thoughts easily drift in unison with the retrospective reflections of the artistic Weld 
under the effect of the same locality. " A ruined church is a common object, 
which, independent of the picturesque beauty it may possess, excites little interest; 
but the sight of a monastery carries us back to distant ages, and gives rise to a 
train of reflection which every mind of sensibility feels a pleasure in indulging. 
We remember that these places were asylums of men who, voluntarily renouncing 
the seducing pleasure of the world, devoted themselves to the services of charity 
and religion. Hither the aged peasants from the neighboring hamlets flocked in 
the hours of sickness and of affliction, to obtain the advice and consolation of the 
ghostly fathers, to crave the boon of charity, or implore the blessing of heaven on 
the labors of their toiling offspring. Hither, during the ages of violence and 
rapine, those who by inclination were disposed to retirement and to ease could 
withdraw in safety from the dangers of contending factions and devote themselves 
to the calm and tranquil pursuits of literature. These were the sacred retreats of 
learning, where the germs of knowledge were preserved till a more genial season 
bade them spring forth and flourish in open day." * 

* Weld, p. 24. 



i6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The picturesque obscurity which stillness and solitude lend to the ruins of 
Muckross even in the daytime, from the umbrageous gloom of the surroundings, 
has been noticed by all writers on the localit)' ; but the moonlight adds a charm 




peculiarly its own, 
which completes all 
that might — if anything 
— be wanting to thoroughly enchain the 
sentiment and awaken the fancy of the ar- 
tistic or poetical beholder. To Muckross, 
as to Melrose, the moon is magical. 

For ages the southern part of the ground outside ot the church 
used as a cemetery by the people ; and there are man)' tombs worthy 



'i/iii/ lOis b\ Alooiuulit 



has been 
of inspec- 



KERR Y. 



17 




Tomb of the Monks. 



tion as showing the ages at which those whose dust is below went to rest. These 
records show that quite a number were over a century old, and that one Peter 

O'Dowd lived one hundred and four- 
teen years in this transitory world. 

Muckross, or Cloghreen, as the vil- 
lage is called, is selected by many as 
" headquarters," from which " to do " 
the lake district ; and it has many rec- 
ommendations, being in the immediate 
vicinity of some notable scenes. Others 
choose the town of Killarney,two miles 
further north on the same road, where 
there are several hotels. The principal 
buildings in Killarney are a magnificent 
Roman Catholic Cathedral designed by Pugin, and " worthy of any city in the 
■empire," the railway station, and the mansion of Lord Kenmare, whose demesne 
runs up to the town. The circuit of the lakes may be made and many splendid 
views of all the leading points attained before going on the water, by coming to 
Killarney from the Kenmare road as we have done, and going from Killarney 
by the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the upper lake. 

Leaving Killarney and passing the Victoria Hotel, we turn off from the main 
road to note the venerable remains at Aghadoe, 
situated on rising ground, and consisting of the rem- 
nants of a fortress, a church, and a tower. The first 
named is sometimes called the " Bishop's Chair," or 
pulpit. The church is a low oblong building consist- 
ing of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying 
east and west of each other ; that to the east is in 
the pointed style, dated 1 1 58, and dedicated to the 
Holy Trinity ; the other, or western chapel, is of an 
earlier period, between the sixth and twelfth cen- 
turies, in the Romanesque style, and was under the 
patronage of St. Finian. The whole of the church 
is about eighty feet in length, by twenty in breadth. 
The ornamented doorway, though much injured, still retains traces of grace and 
teauty. 

The Round Tower is proved to be of still greater antiquity by the superiority 




Doorway at Aghadoe. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



of its masonry. The stones are large, regular, and well dressed ; the greater por- 
tion has been taken away to supply headstones in the adjacent grave-yard. The 
remains are about fifteen feet high, fifty-two feet in circumference, and the 
walls three and a half feet thick. Crossing the bridge over the river Laune^ 
which carries off the surplus water from the lower lake, we find, in a field near 
by, the cave of Dunloe, which was discovered in 1838. As some laborers were 
making a ditch they broke into a subterranean chamber of a circular form, the 
walls of which were uncemented stones inclining inward, with a roof also, of long 
transverse stones. The discovery brought to light a chamber of the very highest 
antiquity, as the stones in the roof were covered with writing in the Ogham char- 
acter, which is stated to have been used in Ireland long before the Christian era ; 

and is to the Irish antiquary 
what " the Runes are in the 
north, and the arroAv-headed 
or wedge character in Baby- 
lonia and Persepolis." About 
a mile west is Dunloe Castle, 
a stronghold of O'Sullivan 
More, which stands on a bold 
promontory overlooking the 
Laune. It stood a siege by 
the Cromwellian forces ; was 
for 3^ears a ruin, but was re- 
paired and fitted up as a 
modern residence by the fa- 
ther of the present proprietor. 
The view from the casde is exquisite, and a row down the river esteemed not 
the least interesting episode of an excursion. At the cottage of Kate Kearney — 
who is represented by the granddaughter of Lady Morgan's mountain heroine, 

"Oh, did you not hear of Kate Kearney" — 

tourists have to forsake their cars or carriages, but hardy ponies are in waiting 
for those who cannot " face the Gap on foot." 

The Gap of Dunloe, one of the grandest wonders of this wonder-land, is a deep,, 
wild, rugged mountain-gorge, about four miles long, between the Magillicuddy 
Reeks on the west, and the Purple Mountains and Toomies on the east. The 
mountains present the appearance of having been driven asunder by some mighty 




Kate Kearney's Cottage. 



KERRY. 



19 



convulsion of nature. The cliffs rise from the bottom in many places to a great 
height, presenting many wild and striking combinations, and exhibiting vast masses 
of rock, heaved up and scattered about in the wildest disorder. On the brow of 
the cliff, on the northern entrance to the right, immense masses of rock, suspended 
in their lofty bed, overhang the pass, and seem to threaten destruction to the ven- 
turesome wayfarer. Further in the projecting cliffs arise on either hand, impend- 
ing fearfully over the narrow pathway. Nor do they always hold their threatening 
attitude, as immense fragments of rock which strew the bottom of the ravine 
sufficiently testify. As Mr. Smith* says, " Immense blocks of rock, rent from the 
overhanging masses of the precipice, and precipitated down its ruined sides, 
lie scattered about, so as to completely choke up the defile. Impending fragments 
seem starting from their shattered beds, and ready to add to the chaos below;" 
and Dr. Forbes adds, " It particularly reminds one of an Alpine valley, by the vast 
accymulation of fragments of rock, fallen from the cliffs above, which are strewed 
along its base." 

A small but rapid little stream, 
the Loe — whence the Gap takes its 
name — traverses the glen from the 
south, and finally runs into the river 
Laune. In its course in the defile it 
expands into five little loughs, which 
are known as the Cummeen Thomeen 
Lakes. Here and there a dwarf tree, 
or a thicket of coppice, or patches 
of golden furze or arbutus, in union 
with the lakes, or the stream, which 
now steals along, and anon rages 
over some jagged steep, adds not a 
little to the charm of the scene, by 
somewhat softening into beauty its 
prevailing aspect of stern grandeur 
and wildness. The road, constructed often on the brink of precipices, follows the 
course of the stream, and in two instances it crosses by means of bridges, at Black 
Lake, the second, and Black Lough, the fifth of the loughs or tarns, at which points 
the effect is very picturesque— one especially, where the bridge stands at the head 
of a beautiful rapid where the torrent plunges in whitening foam over its rocky bed. 

* Killamey and the Sitrrounding Scenery. 




Rapids in the Gap of Dujiloe. 



KERRY. 




Gap of Dunloe. 

The admiration of the visitor continues to increase until he arrives at that part 
where the pass becomes so contracted as to scarcely afford room between the 
inclosing precipices for the narrow pathway. This is right under the Purple 
Mountain, near Auger Lough, called by the peasantry, doubtless by way of 
derisive contrast, or perhaps in sportive recognition of the human energy and 
perseverance which surmounted the difficulties of cutting a passage through this 
once inaccessible pass, "The Turnpike," or more commonly "The Pike" — a 
spot where nature seems to have reached her bleakest climax. On the right, 
the monarch of Irish mountains, Carran Tual, uplifts his dusky head ; and on 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 







Tlu PiU 



the left, Toomies and the Pur- 
ple Mountain rest in everlasting 
shadow. The echoes, which are 
startlingly fine all through the 
Gap, are here in the greatest 
perfection. Saluting the moun- 
tains with a small cannon and 
the martial blare of a trumpet, 
the answering reverberations are 
like the thunders of mighty ar- 
mies in conflict. " The shot in 
itself is insignificant, but the ef- 
fect, produced is absolutely sub- 
lime. Shots, peals of sound; 
thunderbolts, leap, burst, crash 
from out the surrounding hills. Dells, cliffs, rocks, and peaks pour forth a torrent 
of rolling rage, as if the signal had let loose the angry spirits of the mountains." 

The road continues to the top of the Gap, and issuing thence from the depress- 
ing solitude and the uncontrollable influences to melancholy which the deep gloom 
of the place inspire, a scene the most beautiful the imagination can paint bursts daz- 
zlingly upon the sight, the effect no doubt greatly heightened by the contrast with 
that through which the eye has passed. A sudden turn on the narrow path, and, 
as if by magic, on the east appears the Gearhameen River as it falls into the 
upper lake, near Lord Brandon's cottage, and the lake itself embosomed amidst 
glorious woods and mountains ; while to the west, or right, the Coom-Dhuv, or 
Black Valley, with its river and cataract. 

The Black Valley is a deep, dark moorland glen extending some five miles 
westward from the head of the upper lake, in which distance it rises only one 
hundred and forty-seven feet. The darkness of the valley is not caused by any 
excess of vegetation, which is sparing and stunted, but by the height of the hills 
and the dissolved peaty matter in the water. The traveler Inglis regards it as 
more striking than Dunloe, for few could look into its wild recess and seemingly 
boundless craggy moorland without a feeling- of awe akin to horror. Describing 
the valley, Mr. Windele says, " on our right lies the deep, broad, desolate glen 
of Coom-Dhuv ; an amphitheater buried at the base, and hemmed in by the vast 
masses of the mountain, whose rugged sides are marked by the course of the de- 
scending streams. At the western extremity of the valley, gloomily reposes 



KERRY. 



23 



amidst silence and shadows one of those lakes, or rather circular basins of dark 
still water, Loch-an-bric-dearg , ' the lake of the char or red trout.' Other lesser 
lakes dot the surface of the moor, and uniting form at the side opposite the termi- 
nation of the Gap, a waterfall of considerable height, enjoying the advantage, not 
common to other falls in Ireland, of being plentifully supplied with water at every 
season of the year." A first view of the Coom-Dhuv on a hot hazy day is said to 
be truly magical, reminding one of the dioramic representations of the blasted 
heath in Macbeth. Amid the surrounding blackness the water throws back the 
light it receives by reflection from the clouds, giving the idea of being lighted from 
below. " Had there been at the bottom," says the German traveler Kohl, "among 
the rugged masses of black rock, __ 

some smoke and flame instead of 
water, we might have imagined we 
were looking into the entrance to the 
infernal regions." 

If we shared this idea we have 
but to turn to the left, as before sug- 
gested, to experience a transportation 
from Hades to a terrestrial heaven, 
in the delightful effect of the Upper 
Lake. On our way to it we pass a 
very singular curiosity — the " Logan 
Stone," or as it is variously called the " Balance Rock " — or " Rocking Stone." 
It is situated on the side of a steep hill, is twenty-four feet in circumference ; and 
is considered a druidical relic of deep interest to the antiquarian. 

The Upper Lake is but two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile 
wide, yet its position and surroundings have aroused the greatest delight and en- 
thusiasm of travelers ; and it is generally thought to be the finest of the lakes. 
As Weld says, it displays much greater variety than the others, but that variety 
arises from different combinations of the same wild features. Wakefield described 
the Upper Lake as an " immense reservoir in a hollow between stupendous moun- 
tains, the rugged, rocky, and almost perpendicular sides of which may be said to 
overhang the water," whilst the whole scenery is of the most awful and extraordi- 
nary kind, such as very seldom occurs, " and on a scale of magnificence hardly to 
be equaled anywhere else except in the wildest districts of Switzerland." Not 
less enthusiastic is a more recent writer, who says its solid grandeur strikes the 
observer on first beholding it with feelings of awe and admiration. Perfectly 




The Balance Rock. 



24 



PICTURE so UE I RE LA ND. 



distinct in the character of its romantic scenery from that of the Tore (Middle) and 
Lower Lakes, it combines many of the softer beauties of wood and water, with all 
the stern reality of mountain scenery, possessing in a surpassing degree every 





Derrycunnihy 

variety of landscape that can delight the eye or gratify the imagination.* On the 
south are the Derrycunnihy hills, which give the name to one of the grand cascades 
of the region which is to be seen a little way up the Gal way River on the south- 
eastern line of the lake. Here the torrent leaps forth from between some 
rocks high up the mountain, and having fallen a distance of over thirty feet, breaks 
into innumerable falls, as though every rock and tree had its own jet a'eau, and 

* N. P. Willis or J. Sterling Coyne, who wrote the descriptions to Bartlett's illustrations. 




DERRICUNIHY CASCADE. 



26 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

emitted a separate cascade. These gorgeous natural works, split into a thousand 
rills, again unite, and, after concentrating their forces in a deep basin excavated in 
the rocks, once more leap forth in a mass of foam down the narrow channel, 
and are lost in the woods below. In the vicinity of Derrycunnihy Cascade an 
inlet from the lake is entered between two lofty crags. Within lies a beautiful 
sheet of water hemmed in by precipitous rocks, and overhanging trees. Behind 
this a rapid stream rushes through a ravine, being impelled by the force of a cata- 
ract concealed in a glen a short distance from the shore. Derrycunnihy is a favor- 
ite and chosen place of meet for the stag-hunts, and its neighborhood frequently 
the scene of the closing triumphs of the chase. 

After showing how an experienced person stealthily selects a deer, on the day 
previous to the hunt, Mr. Weld continues : " Before the break of day the dogs are 
conducted up the mountain, as silently and secretly as possible, and are kept 
coupled until some signal, commonly the firing of a small cannon, announces that 
the party commanding the hunt has arrived in boats at the foot of the mountain; 
then the dogs are loosed, and brought upon the track of the deer. If the business 
previous to the signal has been silently and orderly conducted, the report of the 
cannon, the sudden shouts of the hunters on the mountain, which instantly suc- 
ceed it, the opening of the dogs, and the loud and continued echoes along an ex- 
tensive region of woods and mountains produce an effect singularly grand. 

" The deer, upon being roused, generally endeavors to gain the summit of 
the mountains, that he may the more readily make his escape across the open 
heath to some distant retreat. To prevent this, numbers of people are stationed 
at intervals along the heights, who by loud shouting terrify the animal, and 
drive him toward the lake. The hunt, however^ begins to lose its interest after 
the first burst. The ruggedness of the ground embarrasses the pursuers ; the 
scent is followed with difficulty, and often lost altogether, or only resumed 
at the end of a long interval : much confusion also arises from the emulous 
efforts of the people on the water to follow the course of the hunt, especially 
if it should take a direction toward' the Upper Lake, when the contending 
boats are frequently entangled among the rocks and shoals of the river which 
leads to it. Those who attempt to follow the deer through the woods are rarely 
gratified with a view, and are often excluded from the grand spectacle of his 
taking the sail, or, in other words, plunging into the lake. It is therefore gener- 
ally recommended to remain in a boat. I was once- gratified by seeing the 
deer run for nearly a mile along the shore, with the hounds pursuing him in 
full cry. On finding himself closely pressed, he leaped boldly from a rock into 




X- ; 



KERRY. 



V 




the lake, and swam toward one of the islands ; but, terrified by the approach of 
the boats, he returned, and once more sought safety on the main shore ; soon 
afterward, in a desperate effort to leap across a chasm between two rocks, his 
strength failed him, and he fell exhausted to the bottom. It was most interesting 
to behold the numerous spectators who hastened to the spot — ladies, gentlemen, 
peasants, hunters, combined in various groups around the noble victim, as he 
lay extended in the depth of the forest. The stag, as is usual on these occa- 
sions, was preserved from death." 

Afloat on the bosom of the 
Upper Lake we realize the sen- ^=- — ^^*'- ^ 

sations of an intelligent voyageur, 
who says : " As we glided along 
the smooth lake, enclosed by 
heaven-kissing hills, with heath- 
covered brows, or more threat- 
ening rocky precipices, relieved 
at the base by luxuriant shrubs 
which shade its verge, and 
studded with islands covered 
with myrtle and arbutus ; the 
national melody stealing along the waters, and thrown back upon our ears by 
the echoing rocks ; our boat's crew with sinewy strength and picturesque mien 
tugging swiftly at their oars, and our fair companions, with delighted eyes, the 
only living things in sight save one strong eagle, which hovered aloft over its 
giant rock ; and then the stillness of the air and the (I believe unwonted) 
•clearness of the blue canopy which covered us — altogether produced an effect 
such as I shall not attempt to delineate." 

The Long Range, a water channel of more than two miles in length, con- 
nects the Upper and Middle Lakes. Rocks, woods, and picturesque openings 
continue and sustain the interest. About halfway through is the Eagles' Nest, 
an inaccessible mass of rock of a pyramidal form, eleven hundred feet in height, 
richly clothed with foliage and shrubs about its sides, and around whose bar- 
ren summit the eagles build their nests and breed their young. The nests 
can only be reached by ropes from above. The echoes at this point are world- 
famous, and are impossible to fully describe. The firing of a gun produces rever- 
berations from mountain to mountain, of thrilling distinctness, like peals of near 
and mighty thunder. A bugle-call is repeated a dozen times from crag to 



The Eaglci' Nest. 



28 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

hill, sometimes low, sometimes loud, sometimes in rapid succession, sometimes 
pausing as if for answer, then dying off, and yet again returning with renewed 
force and eclat from some more distant range. " It is scarcely in the power of Ian- 







Old Weir Bridge. 



guage,"' says Weld, " to convey an idea of the extraordinary effect of the echoes 
under this clifif, whether they repeat the dulcet notes of music, or the loud, dis- 
cordant report of a cannon. Enchantment here appears to have resumed her 
reign, and those who listen are lost in amazement and delight." Under some 
such spell Okenden — who wrote in 1760, seems to have been. "We gazed," 



KERR Y. 



29 




Under fJie Rocks at Tore Lake. 



he said, "at the wood, the rock, and the river, with ahernate hope and lear; 
and we expected, with a pleasing impatience, some ver\^ marvelous event. 
Angels from the sky, or fairies from the mountains, or O'Donoghoe from trie 
river, we every moment expected to appear before us." 



30 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Old Weir Bridge, near view. 



Gliding out of this locality, where the magic of sound is so powerful, and 
down the Range, we pass the fairy scene at the Meeting of Waters, and are at 
the old Weir Bridge, which connects Dinis Island with the mainland, and is 
the entrance to the Middle Lake. The descent of the rapids under the bridge 
is exciting, and needs careful management of the boat. The boatmen, however, 

are very skillful, and shooting the rapids 
_ — _ is one of the- pleasant sensations of a Kil- 

larney trip, although some persons prefer 
landing and walking round. 

The Middle Lake is frequently called 
Tore Lake, from the mountain which 
casts over it a perpetually solemn shade 
and appearance ; and sometimes Muck- 
ross Lake, from being bounded on the 
other (north) side by the Muckross de- 
mesne. The current from the Upper Lake divides, at Dinis Pool, flowing to 
the right into Tore Lake, and to the left between Dinis Island and Glena, 
and joining the Lower Lake at Glena Bay. 

Standing near the confluence of the waters of the three lakes, Scott, after 
pausing in rapt admiration, exclaimed, in the words of Coleridge, " Beautiful 
exceedingly ! " Tore, which is half as large again as the Upper Lake, partakes 
somewhat of the joint characteristics 
of the other two lakes. The rocks 
along its shore have been hollowed 
out into cavernous and grotesque 
forms by the action of the waters. 
In reply to the query, " What is to 
be said about Tore Lake?" Thack- 
eray wrote, " When there, we agreed 
that it was more beautiful than the 
large lake, of which it is not one- 
fourth the size ; then when we came 
back; we said, 'No ; the large lake 
is the most beautiful;' and so, at 

every point we stopped at, we determined that that particular spot was the 
prettiest in the whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to own it, they are 
too handsome. As for a man comino- from his desk in London or Dublin, 




The Cottage on Dinis Island. 




KERRY. 31 

and seeing ' the whole lakes in a day,' he is an ass for his pains. A child 
doing a sum in addition might as well read the whole multiplication table, and 
fancy he had it by heart." Dinis Island is a lovely spot, and a neat and com- 
modious cottage has been built on it by Mr. Herbert, for the gratuitous use 
of visitors. 

Brickeen Island seems to form a prolongation of the thickly-wooded penin- 
sula of Muckross, from which it is only separated by a narrow stream, sjaanned 
by a bridge of a single arch, through which is one of three passages to the 
Lower Lake. 

The Lower Lake, or Lough Lene, is five — 

miles long, three miles wide, and contains about ^ *"^ , /, 

thirty-five islands, most of them richly clothed 
with verdure, and all of them more or less 
interesting by association with romance or 
legend. The transition from wild and rugged 
and closely-piled scenic effects to the expansive rl|^^ 
beauty of Lough Lene at first tends to create 
a feelinjj- of disappointment; but, by degrees,, . , „ ., 

•^ .< o Brickeen Bridge. 

the wonderful loveliness of the shores, woods, 

cascades, islands, and ruins around unfold before the vision and leave a last- 
ing impression of harmony and sweetness. There are fine views from the 
eastern and western shores, but the noblest is doubtless from the northeast, or 
Ross Island, from which the grand mountains in the west and south form a 
glorious background to the placid beauty of its surface, and the poetical effect 
of its innumerable inlets, delicious nooks, and wooded bays. The mountains of 
Glena and the Toomies form an effective barrier on the west. 

Innisfallen Island, about twenty-three acres in extent, is nearly midway between 
the east and west shores of the Lower Lake. It is universally hailed as the most 
beautiful of the lake islands, and its luxuriance of vegetation and purity of ver- 
durous color entitle it, in the opinion of many, beyond any other in the country, to 
the pre-eminence of being the " Emerald Isle." Its appearance from the water is 
that of a dense wood of magnificent trees and gigantic evergreens. It seems im- 
penetrable, the foliage being very close, and literally extending into the water, the 
roots in some places twisting in fantastic forms out of the lake. On approaching, 
glades and alleys appear, and on landing and penetrating its recesses, a variety of 
delightful scenery is disclosed, diversified with rock and dell and lawn, sunny 
glade and umbrageous awning, embellished by thickets of flowering shrubs and 



32 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



evergreens. Here are lofty elms and hollies of unusually large growth and 
girth, fine old oaks too ; but the ash, which attains here a remarkable magni- 
tude and luxuriance, prevails. Among the venerable trees is one at whose 
root a legendary " Friar's grave " is pointed out. Vistas having been judiciously 
cut through the groves, the openings command the most varied and lovely views 
of the shimmering waters, the shores, the woody slopes, and the blue summits 
of the mountains towering above the surrounding woods. 

In addition to its enchanting aspect, Innisfallen has attractions of an historical 

character. The abbey, the ruins 
of which are scattered about the 
island, was founded by St. Finian 
early in the seventh centur}^ The 
solemn tranquillity of the place 
rendered it in ancient times a 
"paradise and secure sanctuary;" 
but the treasures " in gold and 
silver, and richest goods of the 
whole country" which were de- 
posited in it proved a tempta- 
tion which led to its invasion and 
violation in 1180, when, accord- 
ing to the "Annals," the O'Don- 
oghues plundered the abbey, and the MacCarthys slew many of the clergy in the 
cemetery. Near the principal ruins are others, generally believed to have been 
connected with the abbey ; but the most interesting of the remains on the 
island is a part of a structure of far more ancient date, covered with ivy, and 
standing on a mass of rock near the water, close to the landing-place. It is vari- 
ously called a chapel and oratory, but is believed to be the remains of a temple 
of sun-worship, and associated with the remotest antiquity. It has a hand- 
some round-headed doorway at the west, and is a striking feature in both of 
the illustrations given. From the abbey issued "The Annals of Innisfallen," a 
compendium of universal history to the era of St. Patrick, with a continua- 
tion to the end of the thirteenth century — in Irish intermixed with Latin. 
The original is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, and there are copies in Trinity 
College, and the Royal Irish Academy, Dublin. 

Moore has beautifully conveyed the haunting memory of loveliness left on 
the mind by this isle, in the following lines : 




Innisfallen. 




O'SULLIVAN'S CASCADE. 



34 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

" Sweet lanisfallen, fare thee well ; 

May calm and sunshine long be thine \ 
How fair thou art let others tell— 
To feel how fair shall long be mine. 

" Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 

In memory's dream that sunny smile 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
When first I saw thy fairy isle. 

" 'Twas light, indeed, too blest for one 
Who had to turn to paths of care — 
Through crowded haunts again to run. 
And leave thee bright and silent there ; 

" No more unto thy shores to come, 

But, on the world's rude ocean toss'd. 
Dream of thee sometimes, as a home 
Of sunshine he had seen and lost. 

*' Far better in thy weeping hours, 
To part from thee as I do now ; 
When mist is o'er thy blooming bowers, 
Like sorrow's veil on beauty's brow. 

" For, though unrival'd still thy grace. 
Thou dost not look, as then, too blest, 
But thus in shadow, seem'st a place 

Where erring man might hope to rest — 

" Might hope to rest, and find in thee 
A gloom like Eden's, on the day 
He left its shade, when every tree. 

Like thine, hung weeping o'er his way. 

" Weeping or smiling, lovely isle ! 

And all the lovelier for thy tears--- 
For, though but rare thy sunny smile, 
'Tis heav'n's own glance when it appears. 

" Like feeling hearts, whose joys are few. 
But, when indeed they come, divine — 
The brightest light the sun e'er threw. 
Is lifeless to one gleam of thine ! " 



KERRY. 



35 




The Cottage at Glena. 



O' Sullivan's Cascade is at the foot of the Toomies, and the stream which 
forms it separates these mountains from Glena, and empties into the lake on the 
south-west shore which presents a rich and beautiful extent of foliage. Approach- 
ing it, the hills have a fine 
appearance and broken out- 
line. The deep woods clothe 
their base, and farther up they 
are covered with heath, and 
furrowed with water-courses. 
Landing to the right of the 
bed of the stream, and follow- 
ing the course of the torrent, 
the roar of dashing waters 
breaks on the ear ; but the 
over-arching foliage, and the 

intervening shrubs are so thick, that a sight of the waterfall is not attained 
until expectation has been some time excited by the sound of its plunging 
through the rugged channel. It rolls a large volume of water from the deep 
bosom of a woody glen, with impetuous velocity over a cliff seventy feet high, 

and forms three distinct falls — the first 
passing over the ridge falls perpendicu- 
larly into an unseen natural basin, from 
which it escapes and forces itself impetu- 
ously between two hanging rocks into 
another basin, from which it makes its 
third leap into a rugged and broken 
course, where its force and fury is ex- 
pended before it joins the placid waters 
of the lake. In the opinion of some tour- 
=1:^ ists, this fall is superior in beauty to all 
others in the district, not even excepting 
Tore and Derricunnihy. It is certainly 
exceedingly beautiful, presenting the ap- 
pearance of a " continued . flight of unequally elevated foamy stages." A fine 
view of the cascades is obtained from a grotto under a projecting rock, over- 
hanging the lower basin ; so overshadowed by an arch of foliage as to shut 
out the lisfht. 




Ruins of Ross Castle. 



36 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND, 



Following the woody shores under Glena which is covered with the richest 
evergreens, we find in a charming forest glade on Glena Bay, a cottage erected 
by the counties of Kenmare, for the accommodation of visitors, and so spacious 
that several parties can occupy it at the same time without inconvenience. 

Ross Castle is one of the most striking and attractive features of Killarney 
scenery. It presents a very picturesque effect itself, as seen from all parts of 
the lake and from every one of the adjacent mountains, and affords from the 
summit of its tower a commanding panoramic view of every important object 

by which it is surrounded. It 
^~ " ~-^f^^-:z^^^ takes its name from the ros, or 

peninsula, on which it stands, on 
the eastern shore of the Lower 
Lake. The castle consisted of a 
strong keep and other stout build- 
ings, both of a domestic and mili- 
tary nature, surrounded by the 
usual bawn* wall, with its breast- 
works and circular flanking towers 
at the corners. The point on 
which it is built was made an 
island by the cutting of a deep channel through the marshy neck originally joining 
it to the mainland. This ditch, flooded by the waters of the lake, formed a prin- 
cipal defense on the land side. The date of its foundation is unsettled, but 
the style of its masonry and other characteristics indicate it as belonging to the 
latter part of the fourteenth century. About that date, and in some parts of 
Ireland, before it, the Irish chieftains began to adopt some of the manners of 
their powerful Norman neighbors ; and upon the site of their wooden caJiirs, 
or fortresses, built strong castles of stone, in which they stood many a gallant 
siege, and from which they led many a foray to protect their borders from the 
mail-clad intruders. During the vengeful wars that raged through Ireland, Ross 
Castle several times changed hands. From the O'Donoghue More, by one of 
whose ancestors it seems to have been erected, it passed into the hands of 
Mac Carthy More, by whom it was transferred in i588 to Sir Valentine 
Browne, ancestor of the present house of Kenmare. After the fall of the 
Confederation of Kilkenny, in 1648, which was soon followed by the execu- 




Ross Island. 



* Ba-cvn, an anglicised form of the Irish bo-dhun (cow-fortress), a fortified inclosure for cattle. 



KERRY. 



37 



tion of Charles I. in England, many of the generals of the former stoutly 
held out arainst the Cromwellians, who succeeded the latter. Among these 




f was Donagh Mac Carthy, Lord 
of Muskerry, commander of the 
Catholic forces of Munster. After 
his defeat b> the ParHamentary 
forces under Lord Broghill at Knock- 
mclashy in July, i65i, he led fifteen 
hundred men across the mountains, 
and threw himself into Ross Castle. The 
strength of the position is indicated by the 
Parliamentarian General Ludlow, who in 
his " Memoirs," states that he led four 
thousand foot and two thousand horse to its reduction. Muskerry resisted him 
for some time, but Ludlow, having launched several boats on the lake, each 
holding one hundred and twenty men, was able to use some of his force in 



Ross Castle. 



38 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



cutting off the land supplies to the castle. In this dilemma Muskerry was forced 
to parley, and, as Ludlow says, " after a fortnight's debate, concluded the agree- 
ment " of capitulation.* At all times of interest, the time-worn battlements of 
this ancient stronghold present, under particular surroundings of atmosphere, a 
most fascinating effect. On every side it commands scenes of the wildest beauty 
and sublimity. To the west, before it, arise the Toomies and the Purple Moun- 
tains, and beyond them the lofty Reeks of Magillicuddy throw up their savage 
summits into the ever-varying sky. To the east and north-east the valley of 

the Flesk, Coltman's Castle, 
-sr=r^^ the Millstreet Mountains and 

the Paps. To the north a 
number of abrupt and irregu- 
lar eminences, with Killarney 
town and the Kenmare de- 
mesne between, with the ruins 
of Aghadoe to the north-west. 
Southward the Middle Lake, 
Muckross, and Castlelough 
bay in the foreground, with 
Tore and Crommaglan Moun- 
tains, and nearly on a line with the latter, but almost as high as both together, 
the Mangerton range in the background. 

When N. P. Willis visited Ross Castle, the sun was near its setting, and 
the scene presented was one of rare loveliness. " A soft and golden flood of 
light covered the bosom of the lake, and the background of mountains and 
islands, with a glory inexpressibly beautiful. The side of the ruined castle 
toward me lay in deep shade, and its one square and tall tower cut the glow- 
ing sky with an effect which made me wish I had been an artist. The scene 
altogether, for softness of atmosphere, richness of light, singular beauty of out- 
line, and combination of island, mountain, and water, seemed to me quite incom- 
parable. I ascended the top of the ruin, and sat watching the fading light on 
the lake till the color was dissolved in twilight : it was a rare moment of natural 
beauty, sufficient of itself, without legendary or other interest. I enjoyed it to 
the depths of my heart." 

One of the most popular and beautiful of Irish legends is associated with 




O'Donog-hue's Horse. 



Legends of the Wars in Ireland, by Robert Dwyer Joyce, M.D. ; Ludlow's Memoirs (1751), p. i6o. 



KERR Y. 



39 



Ross Castle and Killarney — that of O'Donoghue of the Lakes. The story, which 
may be found at length in Weld's work on Killarney, Derrick's letters on the 
same (1760), Crofton Croker's Irish fairy-lore and others, in brief, is this: 
In the largest of the islands of Lough Lene there lived, many hundred years 
ago, a prince named O'Donoghue, who was lord of the lake, the surrounding 
shore, and a large district of the neighboring country. Indeed, wander where 
you will to this day, hill, rock, glen, and water recall the affection in which 
the chief was held. Among other of his appurtenances symbolized by tarn or 
cliff is his " horse," 
a rock so worn by 
water and time as to 
bear somewhat the 
appearance of a 
horse drinking. 

O'Donoghue was 
distinguished for 
great munificence, 
humanity, and wis- 
dom ; and by "his 
profound knowl- 
edge in all the se- 
cret powers of na- 
ture, he wrought 
wonders as miracu- 
lous as any tradition has recorded of saints by the aid of angels, or of sorcerers 
by the aid of demons." He was as renowned for his warlike exploits as for 
his pacific virtues ; and as a proof that his domestic administration was not the 
less rigorous because it was mild, the rocky island, called O'Donoghue's prison, 
is shown as the place where the prince confined his own son for some act of 
disorder or disobedience. Among other gifts, he possessed the secret of eternal 
youth. Having continued a long time on the surface of the earth without grow- 
ing old, he made the occasion of his departure only less memorable than his 
revisitings. At one of those splendid feasts at Ross Castle for which his court 
was celebrated, surrounded by the most distinguished of his chiefs and people, 
he was engaged in a prophetic relation of the events which were to happen in 
the ages yet to come. His auditors listened, now rapt in wonder, now fired 
with indignation, burning with shame or melted into sorrow, as he detailed the 




The Vision of O'Donoghue. 



40 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

heroism, the injuries, the crimes and miseries of their descendants. In the 
midst of his predictions, lie arose slowly from his seat, advanced with a solemn, 
measured, and majestic tread, passed through the window, and moved for some 
distance over the waters of the lake. As he reached the centre he paused for 
a moment, turned slowly round, looked toward his friends, and waving his 
arms to them with the cheerful air of one taking a short farewell, descended 
into the waters, which opened to receive him, and closed as he disappeared. 

The memory of the good O'Donoghue is impressed on everything about 
the lakes, and has been cherished for successive generations : and he seems in 
his spirit-life to have loved the place and the people, returning again and many 
times — not in the night as ghosts do, revisiting the glimpses of the moon, but 
as one not dead — on May-day morning, while the sun is radiant and the air 
alive Avith pleasant perfume. His visits are hailed with delight ; for fortunate 
is the being who beholds the generous spirit-chief. His presence is always an 
omen of good fortune, and the vision on May-day is granted to many ; it is a 
sure token of an abundant harvest, the want of which was never felt during the 
reign of this O'Donoghue. His absence, which sometimes occurs for three or 
four years, is lamented as an augury of bad times. Derrick had the account 
of one of those beautiful visits — the O'Donoghue attended b)^ a numerous reti- 
nue scattering flowers, and moving together over the surface of the Avaters — 
from an " eye-witness ;" and adds : " The account is confirmed in time, place, and 
circumstances, by many more spectators from the side of the lake, who are all 
ready to swear, and not improbably to suffer death in support of their testi- 
mony." Derrick wrote more than a hundred years ago, but testimony not less 
positive is not wanting in our own day in regard to the visions to be seen at 
Killarney. Many living witnesses testified to the appearance of O'Donoghue, 
and to " actual interviews between children of earth and the spirit of the 
disembodied prince," to Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, while at Killarne3\ One of 
them they especially refer to as having no "pre-established superstition" — "an 
Englishman, a Protestant, and moreover a soldier of the 30th Regiment." His 
story was : He and a comrade, an Irishman, were engaged in ploughing up the 
old church-yard in Innisfallen, a work they both disliked. As they were moor- 
ing the boat in which they came to the island in the morning, after the 'com- 
mencement of the work, "they saw a procession of about two hundred persons 
pass from the old church-yard, and walk slowly and solemnly over the lake to 
the mainland. Reynolds Avas himself terribly alarmed, but his companion fainted 
in the boat." He repeatedly afterward saw smaller groups of figures, but no 




EAGLE'S-NEST MOUNTAIN, FROM KENMARE ROAD. 



42 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

crowd so numerous. " In answer to our questions, he expressed his perfect 
readiness to depose to the fact on oath ; and asserted he would declare it if he 
were on his death-bed." The writers add, that the " plain-spoken native of 
Devonshire," who had won the prize at the plowing-match the year previous, 
evidently had no imagination, was little likely to invent or give currency to a 
fiction, had no object in coining a deceit, and was indisposed to talk on the 
matter.* In a scientific note, however, interesting enough to be poetical, this 
and many other old-time legends and visions are disposed of as optical illusions 
and illustrations of the mirage. Among the traditions of the lake is one of a 
beautiful young girl of the house of Cluain-Fineen, who, believing herself in 
love with the prince, threw herself into the lake on a May morning, in search 
of the object of her affections. On this romantic theme Moore founded his 
"melody" of " O'Donoghue's Mistress," commencing — 

" Of all the fair months that round the sun 
In light-link'd dance their circles run, 
Sweet May, shine thou for me ; 
For still, when thy earliest beams arise, 
That youth, who beneath the blue lake lies, 
Sweet May, returns to me." 

Mr. Wakefield, at the commencement of the century, observed that those 
who go to Killarney without ascending the Reeks and Mangerton, though they 
may come away delighted with the gratification derived from the rich scenery 
of Muckross, the beautiful appearance of the islands emerging from the crystal 
flood, and astonished by the singularly wild and rugged views which the Upper 
Lake affords, yet will they know nothing of those grand, awful, and sublime 
scenes exhibited by nature, where objects of the most terrific kind are united 
in the wildest and most fantastical manner. These views, and the enthusiasm 
inspired by the region, have impressed the most intelligent travelers. 

The ascent of Carran Tual is difficult and dangerous, requiring activity, cour- 
age, and endurance. Indeed, a good combination of sure-footed shelties, intel- 
ligent guides, self-possession, and strong lungs, are necessary to face the preci- 
pices that lie between the lakes and the chief summit of the Reeks. With these 
and favorable weather the ascent will fully repay the toil. Provided with a 
stock of creature comforts adequate to sustain the " inner man " on such an 
excursion, the road from the town of Killarney along the northern shore of the 
Lower Lake, by the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe, is taken, and on to the 

* Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall's Ireland, etc., vol. i., p. 200. 



KERR Y. 



43 



Giddagh River, following the upward channel of which the Hag's Glen is reached. 
On the left are the precipices of the Reeks, and on the right the ascent of 
Knock-a-Brianeen. Proceeding, the Hag's Lough and Teeth and the Devil's 
Lough are pointed out, and resigning the ponies, the adventurous searcher 
after the picturesque must trust for a good hour more to his elastic temper 
and thews and sinews to complete the ascent. Stopping occasionally to 
take breath, wonder and admiration are tame expressions to describe the 
feelings which arise at the contemplation of the prospect that unfolds itself, like 
a miap, before the vision on 
the northern side of the Reeks. 
On reaching the summit the 
full glory of the scene on all 
sides is magnificent beyond 
conception. A noble pano- 
rama — glorious in all that 
makes earth beautiful — hills, 
lakes, valleys, rivers, are mi- 
nutely discernible below the feet 
of the spectator. The Killar- 
ney Lakes, except a small por- 
tion of the Lower one, are 
not visible, being shut out by 

the Toomies Mountains ; but in the Reeks are several lakes — now glancing 
in sunlight, now shadowed by overhanging precipices — within view, while 
immediately under Carran Tual on the south is Curraghmore Lough, at an 
altitude of 1004 feet, and on the north Lough Gauragh, 11 26 feet above the 
sea level. The scenes extend in sublime grandeur beyond the immedi- 
ately surrounding localities, from the Shannon on the north to Cape Clear, and 
embracing between them the bays of Dingle, Kenmare, Bantry, and Dunmanus ; 
the waters of the Atlantic mingling with the sky in the distant horizon. 

The ascent of Mangerton is less difficult. While at the village of Cloghreen, 
en route, a slight divergence might be made to view the little old church of 
Killaghie. It is very small and of simple construction, yet it will repay a visit, 
"being a sample of the stone-roofed chapels of the early Irish saints. With the 
■exception of the tower, which is an addition of a later date, a remote antiquity is 
claimed for this edifice as for others of similar character. The ascent to Mangerton 
is made on sure-footed ponies, through ravines and water-courses, and at times by 




Killaghie Church. 



44 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



steep, rough, and precipitous paths. At length the Devil's Punch Bowl is reached, 
and the traveler is not disinclined to rest. This Bowl is a tarn near the sum- 
mit of the mountains, surrounded by almost perpendicular rocks, the rugged 
outlines of which reflected in the water add to its apparent depth, and the singu- 
lar wildness of the lonely scene. Its dark and unfathomable waters, the over- 
flow of which forms the beautiful Tore Cascade, are extremely cold ; and they 




Devil's Punch Bowl. 



neither freeze m the 
severest wmters, nor 
are calm m the mild- 
est summers, facts 
which are attributed 
to the nature of his Satanic majesty, after whom 
the lake is named. It is more than two thousand feet above the lakes, and 
is twenty-eight acres in extent. Charles James Fox, it is said, swam round it 
in 1772, and, as suggested by that feat and other facts, he used to boast 
that he " was shaved by Old Nick (his barber's name was Nicholas) in the 
morning, swam across the Devil's Punch Bowl at noon, and got as drunk as 
the devil at night." To the east of the " Bowl " is Glenna Coppel, which looks 
inaccessible to all save the brown eagle, which seems to have made it its 



KERRY. 



45 




•dwelling. A more wild spot can scarcely be imagined — a valley sunk down as 

precipitous as the crater of a volcano, with several 

small lakes at the bottom. None should attempt . f - •' ~ - 

the descent save hardy climbers, and even those - 

on the north side, through the opening by which ^ ^ ^~- 

it discharges the overflow from its lakes in the - 

winter.* 

From the Punch Bowl the ascent to the sum- 
mit of Mangerton is by a narrow pathway too 
steep for the ponies. An American, who from 
youth had learned to love natural scenery — whose 
eyes and feelings were trained to the picturesque 
-and grand by the bold outlines of the Granite 
Hills, over which tower Semaphor, Kearsarge, and 
Monadnock — made the ascent of Mangerton, and 
has given us his impressions f of the view from 
the summit. 

" Here," he says, " we had a magnificent pros- 
pect in all directions, as far as the eye could reach, 
except a small space at the west, toward Derrynane — the former residence of 
O'Connell, which was hidden by the highest peak in Ireland, Carran Tual, and 

Magillicuddy"s Reeks, which stand 

^^ ;:^ _^^ ^^^ like towers of defense about their 

^ ^^'^^^^^^* ;"T"r"^^^ — -, royal master. North of them, 

— ^_ beyond a fine, undulating country^ 

^-;.i~ — we could see Dingle Bay ; and 

on the south, over rough, barren 
hills, cut in pieces by deep glens 
a.nd widening vales, lay, in glossy 
brightness, the Bay of Kenmare, 
and a little further, over another 
rough range, through which we 
could trace the celebrated and 
romantic Glengariff, was Bantry Bay, and still further. Cape Clear and the broad 



Profile of Rocks at Devil's Punch 
Bowl. 







The Flesk River. 



* A Series of Papers, "A Run through the South of Ireland," in the Dublin Saturday Magazine, 1865-6, has given 
us some good hints, practical, descriptive, and otherwise. 

t Ireland as I Saw It, by William S. Balch, New York, 1850. 



46 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Atlantic. Toward the east, a long line of broken, barren, heathy hills, rocky- 
dells, and deep ravines. The romantic valley of the Flesk, winding tortuously 
through this wild and desolate region, so well described in Lever's O Donoghue, 

is distinctly traced — the rounded Paps 
and Cahirconree on the one side, 
and Croghan and Keim-an-eigh on 
the other. In this direction is a 
scene of wild and confused desola- 
tion, such as the eye rarely rests 
upon, which contrasts forcibly with 
the beautiful and cultivated vales be- 
yond, and the broad and gently undu- 
lating plains on the north. 

" What adds greatly to the beauty 
of this remarkably picturesque scen- 
ery are the numerous little lakes 
which bespangle it like stars in the 
deep blue firmament of heaven. 
Scarcely a hut or sign of human 
habitation meets the eye in all this 
range. ... I had never dreamed that such a dreary, mountainous district 
could be found in the Emerald Isle ; never that a landscape so variegated, wild, 
and picturesque was to be looked for, except in Scotland or Switzerland. The 
lakes and town of Killarney, the shaded villas, the small and vari-colored fields, 
the innumerable white thatched huts dotting the broad sweep of cultivated and 
apparently level land west and north, which, seen at this distance, look very 
neat and comfortable ; the floating clouds, which once or twice enveloped us 
in mist — everything, in fine, conspired to entrance me with the beauty, the splen- 
ior, and novelty of the scene. 

" The view from the top of Mount Washington is more grand, more aAvfully 
sublime, but lacks the variety, beauty, and romance of this spot. There we see 
no crumbling castles, ivied abbeys, ruined monasteries, unfinished cathedral, 
gray old towers, embowered villas, O'Donoghue legends, sportsmen's lodges, 
shepherd's cots, thatched cabins, Irish wit, and Celtic songs. We have beauti- 
ful lakes, though none so sweet and silvery as these scattered all about us. 
We have narrow defiles, but none more wild and picturesque than Glengariff, 
the Pass of Keim-an-eigh, the Gap of Dunloe, or Commedhuv. We have taller 



Over the Upper Lake. 



KERRY. 



A7 



mountains, and ranges, and spurs shooting off in different directions, but none 
are more bleak and wildly confused than these. Ours mingle not the white 
bleached granite, rising occasionally, in perpendicular masses, with the brown 
heather, purple erica, dark-green patches of moor and fen, and glassy lakelets. 
We have more patriotic names, but none so venerable and euphonious as Carran 
Tual, Cahirconree, Cracmaveel, Finnevagogh, Cruchabinny, Fortagrisane, Glen- 
gariff, Toomies, and Cahir Reeks. Ours have a newness and a freshness, which, 
in one sense, charms us. They rise from the midst of vast forests, which climb 
far up their sides, till dwindled into shrubs and moss; then come the naked 
and confused mass of dark rocks. These plant their deeply indented bases 
on broad fields of rich soil, bedotted with lakes, towns, hamlets, and huts, 
which latter extend up their shrubless sides as far as space of earth is found 
to till." 

In this connection may be added the observations of another visitor from 
America: "The glory of the picture lay in its massive frame of purple moun- 
tains, towering in savage grandeur tier upon tier, until high over all loomed the 
peak of Carran Tual, or the inverted reaping-hook, so called from its shape. In- 
deed, it is this combination of sublimity and beauty, rugged mountain and grassy 
slope, crystal waters and waving woods, all concentrated in such a small compass, 
that makes Killarney unsurpassed as a perfect picture by any other spot on 
God's earth." The writer thinks that for simple beauty alone there is no single 
view in Killarney or in its vicinity equal to one on the Blackwater at Lismore, or 
near Cappoquin, where that river abruptly changes its eastward course and runs 
southward to the sea. But he adds, " Though unsurpassed, in the wealth of glo- 
rious rivers and fertile fields, gorgeous woods and ivy-mantled castles, the dark 
and magnificent background to the picture which forms so striking a feature in 
the Killarney landscape is wanting." . . . Again, "I have seen some views on 
Lake George in this State (New York) which for clearness of the water, greenness 
of the islands on its bosom, and beauty of the woods in their gorgeous autumnal 
livery, might compare favorably with any single view of Killarney. But here, 
again, the mountains, though magnificent in their wooded tiaras, are not near as 
high nor half as grand in form ; and Lake George can boast of no ivy-crowned 
ruin to awaken thoughts of the past." 

As one takes a parting view of the Upper Lake from the Kenmare Road, 
he is deeply impressed with the prevailing sense of solitary beauty; and will 
agree with Willis, that " here Nature sits in lonely and silent grandeur amidst 
her primeval mountains. Solitude, stillness the most profound, rests upon the 



48 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 






woody shores and the tranquil lake, filling and overpowering the mind with a 
deep sense of the perfect seclusion of the scene." 

Sir Richard Colt 
Hoare, a noted Eng- 
lish antiquary and topo- 
grapher, declared that 
the collected beauties 
of this favored district 
are so great, so varied, 
and so superior to any- 
thing that he had ever 
seen in Italy, Switzer- 
land, or England, that 
to delineate or describe 
them he felt impossi- 
ble. Artists and au- 
thors will agree with 
him ; and, in realizing 
that neither pen nor 
pencil can do complete 
justice to the scen- 
ery and ever - varying 
effects, will also unite 
with Judge Haliburton 
of Nova Scotia, when 
he says: " Killarney is 
not over-praised — it is 
not praised half enough. 
Go there of a fine day, 
when the lake is sleep- 
ing in the sunbeams, 
and the jealous moun- 
tain extends its shadowy vail to conceal its beautiful bosom from the intrusive 
gaze of the stranger. Go when the light silver vapor rises up like a transparent 
scarf, and folds the lofty summit of Mangerton, till it is lost in the fleecy clouds 
on the upper regions. Rest on your oars and drift slowly down to the base of 
the cliff, and give utterance to the emotions of your heart, and say, ' O, God, 




Tore Mountain from Dinnis Island. 



KERR V. 



49 



how beautiful ! ' and your voice will awaken the sleepy echoes from their 
drowsy caverns, and every rock, and every cavern, and every crag, and every 
peak of the mountain will respond to your feeling, and echo in a thousand 
voices, ' O God, how beautiful ! ' Then turn your 
back to the coming 
breeze, an^ steer for 
Muckross Abbey. __ 




Cascade on the Galivay Rivei 



Pause here 
again to take 
a last, long, 
lingering look at this scene 
of loveliness, and with a mind 
thus elated and purified, 
turn from nature to nature's 
God, and entering upon the 
awful solitude that reigns over His holy temple, kneel upon its broken altar, 
and pray to Him who made this island so beautiful, to vouchsafe in His 
goodness and mercy to make it also tranquil and happy." Macaulay, writing at, 
and of Killarney, says : " I never in my life saw anything more beautiful ; I 
might say, so beautiful. Imagine a fairer Windermere in that part of Devon- 
shire where the myrtle grows wild. The ash-berries are redder, the heath richer, 
4 



50 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the very fern more delicately articulated than elsewhere. The wood is every- 
where. The grass is greener than anything that I ever saw. There is a positive 
sensual pleasure in looking at it." "^ 

The chorus of Cascades from Derrycunnihy and the Galway River — to which 
allusion was made on our route from the Black Valley to our first view of the 
Upper Lake — breaks upon the reverie into which these expressions of apprecia- 
tion led us, only, however, to enable us to still more fully realize the beauty of 
the objects that inspired them. 

Amono- the attractive modern features which taste and wealth have added 
to the neighborhood of Killarney is the handsome castle built by Mr. Colts- 
man about half a century ago. A native of Great Britain, he became en- 
amored of the beauty of Killarney, and purchasing an estate adjoining the 
Lower Lake, raised the castellated and picturesquely situated residence shown 
in the engraving ; principally, it was said, from his own designs. The grounds 
when selected were bleak, but within ten years after, fine plantations and 
fruit-orchards added their charms of foliage to the scene. Crowning an emi- 
nence which falls gently on every side, the castle affords unobstructed views 
of the surrounding scenery. The County of Kerry abounds in natural won- 
ders, but the observation of Mr. Wakefield many years ago is almost as true 
of to-day — that the attention of the tourist is so much occupied with Killar- 
ney, that the romantic scenery and antiquities in other parts are either forgotten 
or largely overlooked. Of course this is readily accounted for, yet the beau- 
ties of Killarney will not, or at least should not, dull the edge of the percep- 
tive sensibilities for scenery not less remarkable, if less celebrated. The scenery 
of the sea-coast is particularly fine. Lough Carra, fifteen miles west of Kil- 
larney, about seven miles in length, and varying from two to four miles wide,, 
was formerly only known to persistent sportsmen, but Avith the aid of good 
roads and accommodations, it is growing into general estimation. It is divided 
into upper and lower, and the former is one of the grandest of the Kerry 
Lakes, and deemed not inferior to its namesake at Killarney. The Valle}- of 
Glencar, in which Carra takes its rise, is surrounded by mountains, that pre- 
sent a grand amphitheatric appearance — one rising above the other, with the 
Reeks and Carran-Tual towering back of all to the south. The Lough — which 
is connected with the sea by Carra River, five miles long — is almost in the direct 
line to Cahir-civeen, the Southern Coast of Dingle Bay, and the Harbor and 



* Life and Letters of Lord Macaulay, vol. ii., p. 230. 



KERRY. 51 

Island of Valentia. Cahir-civeen is chiefly noted for its proximity to the birth- 
place of O'Connell. Derrynane x'\bbey, the patriot's country seat, originally a 
farm-house which has received additions from time to time, is picturesquely 
situated near the mouth of the Kenmare River, and in the vicinity of some mo- 
nastic ruins dating from the seventh century. Speaking of this district, in i752, 
Smith's " Kerry," the only work which then, or for perhaps three-quarters of a 
century later, noticed the remote locality, said, "At Aghmore, toward the 
western extremity of the parish, are the remains of a small abbey of canons 
regular of St. Austin, founded by the monks of St. Finbar, near Cork, in the 
seventh century. It is situated in a small island near the mouth of the river of 
Kenmare, having its walls so beaten by the sea, that they will soon be entirely 
demolished. About a league to the southwest of this island, which is at low 
water joined to the shore, there are two islands called Scariff and Dinish ; the 
former is a high mountain in the sea, and hath one family on it, who take care 
of some cows, and make a considerable quantity of butter; on the top of the 
highest ground in the island, is a ruined hermitage. These islands, with the 
continent, are farmed from the Earl of Cork and Orrery, by Mr. Daniel Connel, 
who has on a part of the said land, named Derrynane, built a good house, and 
made other improvements, the only plantation hereabouts." Inglis went through 
the "Wilds of Kerry" in 1834, and of the route from Killarney to Cahir-civeen 
said, "The road is altogether a very interesting one, both on account of the 
scenery through which the traveler passes ; and on account of the peculiarities 
that attach to the people of these parts, which are said to have been colonized 
by Spanish settlers, and which long held a close intercourse with the Penin- 
sula. . . . Nothing can be finer than the road skirting the sea, after 
leaving Lord Headly's property. In the magnificence of its mountain and sea 
views, it is not inferior to any of the celebrated roads which have been con- 
structed along the shores of the Mediterranean ; and is every way superior to 
the road from Bangor to Conway, in North Wales." He was now in " O'Con- 
nell's country." " Near to Cahir-civeen is the birth-place of the great agitator. 
It is a ruined house, situated in a hollow near to the road ; and when I reached 
the spot, the driver of the car pulled up, and inquired whether I would like to 
visit the house." 

In 1825, on the death of his uncle Maurice, " Old Hunting-Cap," who had 
adopted him, Daniel O'Connell became possessed of Derrynane. He made 
the old house suitable to his position, enjoyed himself as a prince, and gave 
princely entertainment to his friends. He was enthusiastic about the scenery 



52 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



among which he had passed his boyhood, and loved to roam about with his 
guests, and to point out to them the cloud-capped mountains of Coomakisth 
and Kilcrohan, and climb with them to the Scholar's Cave, there to feast the 
eye on the sea in all its grandeur, and the ear with the unceasing and never- 
tiring chorus of the Atlantic. 

He kept a large establishment during his visits to Derrynane, and the 
old retainers and their children and children's children flocked about him at 

home, like the sea-birds 
round a rock on the sea- 
shore, or as the multitude 
circled him on political 
occasions. He loved the 
music of the pack by day 
as well as he loved the 
music of the piper when 
the day's doings had closed, 
and the evening's merri- 
ment had commenced. At the head of his table, he showed to such advantage 
that one could scarcely think so wide a wealth of sunshiny nature could ever 
be transformed into stormy wrath. No word of political or religious significance 
was indulged in, that could suggest, much less indicate, a difference between 
host and guest. And, like a true old boy as he was, he ever loved the society 
of the young and fair. Florence MacCarthy, describing O'Connell in his moun- 
tain home, thus depicts the region of Derrynane. 




Shore of Dingle Bay. 



" Where foams the white torrent and rushes the rill 
Down the murmuring slopes of the echoing hill ; 
Where the eagle looks out from his cloud-crested crags, 
And the caverns resound with the panting of stags ; 
Where the brow of the mountain is purple with heath. 
And the mighty Atlantic rolls proudly beneath, 
With the foam of its waves like the snowy Fenane, 
Oh ! this is the region of wild Derrynane." 

Valentia Island is the extreme point of land on the south side of Dingle 
Bay, and with the exception of the little islands north of it, is the nearest point 
of Ireland to America. The island is about five miles long, and two broad, 
and is owned by the Knight of Kerry, who resides on it at Glenbean. It has 
a world-wide interest as the Atlantic Telegraph Station — the spot on which the 




VIEWS IN THE L^KE COUMTRY. 




54 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

European end of the Atlantic Cable from America is fixed. The ocean is here 
seen in all its wildest magnificence, the waves rising to a height scarcely credible 
to those who have not visited this coast. Near the northwest entrance to 
Valentia Harbor is Beg Innis Island, on which Cromwell placed a fort. A light- 
house is now there, the lantern of which is fifty-four feet above the sea level, 

displaying a fixed white light, 
visible at twelve miles, dis- 
tance. A signal tower is also 
on Breahead, the southern- 
most point of the island. 
One of the largest vessels 
of the Spanish Armada was 
wrecked here — a cabin-boy 
being the only person saved. 
Pusha-Pike Fishing. To the northeast. Dingle 

Bay extends inland. Its 
shores are indented with numerous harbors and lesser bays, formed by the moun- 
tains running out into the sea and producing a wild and imposing effect. 

South of Valentia are the Skelligs, a group of three rocks which rank 
among " the greatest curiosities of the Atlantic." They were formerly celebrated 
as the resort of pilgrims. The great Skellig is nearly eight miles south- 
west of Breahead, and eight miles northwest of Bolushead, and is composed of 
a mass of slated rock, rising perpendicularly to the height of i6o feet, and then 
forms two pyramids, one of which is 1,500 feet above the level of the sea. 
There are two light-houses here, they are 65o feet apart, and are distinguished 
as the upper and lower Skellig lights; their lanterns, 372 and 173 feet above 
high water, displaying two fixed white lights, seen respectively at a distance of 
twenty-five and eighteen miles at sea. The soundings about these islands 
are in ninety fathoms water, and abound with a great variety of fish. The 
southern bays, rivers, and estuaries are famous fisheries, and the usual mode of 
fishing in these waters is termed " pusha-pike." It needs but one man to 
manage a net. " At low tide he moors his boat to a pole fixed in the water, 
and spreading a net loosely over two poles placed at an angle, lowers it into the 
narrow channel. When the net is touched by a fish, the fisher who holds the 
upper part, feels the touch, and he instantly raises the net and secures the prize." 
The peninsula, north of Dingle Bay, extending from the lofty Sliev Rlish 
between Tralee and Castlemaine, to the Blaskets, is full of natural beauties and 



KERRY. 



55 




BiViittrs Castle 



historical associations. Here, as all along these coasts, the Spaniards had set- 
tlements, and the remains of strongholds are numerous. At Ferriter's Cove, 
seven hundred Spaniards and Itahans landed with munitions to aid Des- 
mond, then in arms against Elizabeth. They took the town of Smerwick, but 
subsequently, having surrendered, were mercilesssly slaughtered — the foreigners 
were put to the sword, and the _ 

Irish hanged to a man. This 
act was brought against Sir 
Walter Raleigh on his trial, and 
he was unable to fully excul- 
pate himself from participation 
in the dishonorable and foul 
deed. As Hall, an English 
writer says, " The butchery is, 
and ever will be, a foul stain 
on Raleigh ; it was a gratuitous 
and merciless act of slaughter, utterly indefensible ; ... it was, however, but 
in keeping with the whole system pursued by the English in these parts." The 
remaining tower of Ferriter's Castle, situated on a wild spot on the very verge 
of the Atlantic, recalls another of many terrible illustrations of this "system." 
The last of the Ferriters, Pierce, was "out in the troubles" of 1641, surren- 
dered under promise of pardon, but was, with all his followers, put to the sword. 

About four miles from Dingle, at Kilmelchedor, are two ancient heathen tem- 
ples ; one in the ornamental style, and the other plain. The first is called in Irish, 
Temple Melchedor — the "Temple of the Golden Moloch;" and is believed to 
be as old as Cormac's Chapel at Cashel. Over the door on the inside is the 
figure of an ox's head — supposed to represent the Golden Moloch himself. The 
other is called Gallern's Oratory. The wildness of the place, and the sparsity 
of population, lead the people, in their inability to see their use, to credit such 
buildings to supernatural agency. The presence, however, of such remarkably 
perfect specimens of architecture in such localities, must be a subject of deeply 
interesting conjecture, if not study, to rational, intelligent people. 

Among the most wonderful of the coast sights are the Caves of Ballybunlan. 
" The whole shore," writes the old historian, " here hath a variety of romantic 
caves and caverns, formed by the dashing of the waves ; in some places are 
high open arches, and in others Impending rocks, ready to tumble down upon 
the first storm." Mr. William Ainsworth published a small volume descriptive 



56 



PICTURE SO UE IRE LA ND. 



of them in 1834, in which he says: "The cliffs of Ballybunian are even less 
remarkable for their dimensions, than they are for the singular form of rocks, 
which seem as if carved by the hand of man ; and, independently of the lofty 




Bally I'll mall, on I he Coast. 



mural precipices, whose angular proportions present every variety of arrangement, 
as in Smuggler's Bay, where they oftentimes are semicircularly arranged, like 
the eroin-work of an arch, or the tablets or small strings running round a window. 



KERRY. 



57 




Ardfert Abbey. 



or are piled above one another in regular succession, presenting a geological phe- 
nomenon of great grandeur and magnificence, they have also other distinct beau- 
ties, which originate frequently 
in similar causes." ~~ 

Tralee is the chief town of 
the county. It is well built 
and lighted, presents a pleasing 
aspect ; has about thirteen thou- 
sand inhabitants, and carries on a 
prosperous traffic. With a vast 
expanse of water before it and 
Sleiv Mish beside it, the scenery 
in its neighborhood is very at- 
tractive. Near the village of 
Ardfert, about five miles north- 
west from Tralee, are the ruins 
of Ardfert Abbey, not only the most important monastic remains in Kerry, but 
which among antiquarians rival the interest surrounding St. Cormac's at Cashel. 

Ardfert was a very ancient diocese. 
The ruins of the Cathedral bear marks 
of great antiquity. The western front 
contains four round arches ; in the 
eastern, as seen in the illustration, are 
three elegant narrow-pointed windows, 
and on the right of the altar are some 
niches with Saxon mouldings. A round 
tower, built chiefly of dark marble, 
and one hundred and twenty feet high, 
stood near the west front, suddenly 
fell down in 1771. Tradition states 
that Ardfert had seven churches ; and 
the remains of four were at a recent 
date traceable within the Cathedral 
enclosure, which also contains the 
tombs of many of the old families of Kerry, of which we give a specimen. 

The castle of the Lords of Kerry who protected the churches of Ardfert is 
represented by the broken remnant wall. Smith says it was " demolished in the 




Tomb m Ardfert Abbey. 



58 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

wars of 1 641," but the building then destroyed was a recent structure, erected 
on the site of the ancient castle, "built by Nicholas, the third Lord Kerry, in 
131 1, and re-edified by Thomas, the eighteenth Lord, in iSgo." The Cathe- 
dral is dedicated to St. Brendan. Carthaguiney is the name of the peninsula 
that shoots — as Camden said of the whole county, " like a tongue into the 
sea, roaring on both sides of it" — a length of twenty-five miles, a ridge of 
mountains sending its loftiest summits toward the west end, the tallest of which 
is called after the same Saint, Brendan, named the Voyager. This mountain 
and the bay within its shelter are deeply interesting as the place whence St. 
Brendan set out on his voyages of discovery in the sixth century. Having 
learned from his cousin Barinthius of a voyage made, and of the western isles 
landed on, by him, he determined — for the conversion of the heathen — to take a 
voyage of discovery himself Aware that many traditions existed on the western 
Irish coast, of the existence of a farther western land, he proceeded up the coast 
and made inquiries among the remnants of the Tuatha-de-Danaan people, whose 
great knowledge led them to be regarded as magicians by the Milesians. He 
set up his cross at Inniskea and Innisgloria, where subsequently in his honor were 
erected those monuments whose curious remains still exist. Having satisfied 
his mind, he returned to his native Kerry, and from a bay sheltered by the lofty 
mountain, that is now known by his name, he set sail for the Atlantic land. 

" At length the long-expected morning came, 

When from the opening arms of that wild bay, 
Beneath the hill that bears my humble name. 

Over the waves we took our untracked way : 
Sweetly the morn lay on tarn and rill. 

Gladly the waves played in its golden light. 
And the proud top of the majestic hill 

Shone in the azure air — serene and bright. 

" Over the sea we flew that sunny morn, 

Not without natural tears and human sighs. 
For who can leave the land where he was born, 

And where, perchance, a buried mother lies, 
Where all the friends of riper manhood dwell. 

And where the playmates of his childhood sleep : 
Who can depart, and breathe a cold farewell, 

Nor let his eyes their honest tribute weep ? 

" Our little bark kissing the dimpled smiles 
On Ocean's cheek, flew like a wanton bird. 
And then the land, with all its hundred isles. 
Faded away ..." D. Florence McC.'^rthy, Voyage of St. Brendan. 



KERRY. 59 

Directing his course southwest to meet the summer solstice, after a long 
and rough voyage, he came to summer seas, where he was carried along for 
days without the aid of sail or oar. "This, it is presumed, was the great Gulf 
Stream, which brought his three vessels to shore somewhere about the Virginia 
Capes, or where the American coast trends eastward and forms the New England 
States." He landed, proceeded for fifteen days into the interior until he came to 
a large river flowing from east to west, and returned under some admonition that 




Mount Brendan. 

the Christianizing of the land would devolve on other men, and in other times. 
After an absence of seven years he returned to his native country. Curious details 
are given of his wanderings in old metrical narratives. The voyage of St. Bren- 
dan was very popular from the twelfth century. It was first promulgated in Latin, 
subsequently translated into all the languages of Western Europe, and exercised, 
says Montalembert, " a lively influence upon the Christian imagination during all 
the middle ages, and even up to the time of Christopher Columbus, to whom the 
salt-water epic of St. Brendan seems to have pointed out the way to America". * 

* " 1 am convinced," said Columbus, " that the terrestrial paradise is in the island of St. Brendan, which nobody 
can reach except by the will of God." Quoted by M. Ferdinand Denis, Le Monde Enchante, p. 130. Vide Montalem- 
bert, Monks of the West (vol. i., p. 695). 



6o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

The legend, says Otway, "when tested by common sense, clearly shows that 
Brendan landed on a continent, and went a good way into the interior, met a 
great river running in a different direction from those he heretofore crossed ; 
and here, from the difficulty of transit or want of provisions, or deterred by in- 
creasing difficulties, he turned back." * On his return he visited Brittany, where 
he founded a monastery, and subsequently, at the age of about seventy, the great 
establishment at Clonfert, Galway, into which he collected three thousand monks. 
The "Annals of The Four Masters" record his death in a.d. 5/6, as follows: 
" St. Brenainn, Abbot of Cluain-ferta-Brenainn, died on the i6th May. He died 
at Eanach-dain (now Annadown, in the barony of Clare, County Galway), and his 
body was interred at Cluain-ferta-Brenainn." 

On the top of Mount Brendan are the remains of the Saint's Oratory ; and 
an ancient stone-paved causeway leading to it, which are believed to be coeval 
with the voyager himself Old ecclesiastical writers refer to Kerry as St. Bren- 
dan's land, and Camden calls that part of the Atlantic off the coast of Kerry, 
at the mouth of the Shannon, Mare Brendanicuin, or the Sea of Brendan. 

As our opening chapter describes the nearest Irish land to America, brief 
allusion to the first European Avho, according to tradition, found his way to the 
American Continent, will not be deemed out of place. Our eminent poet Long- 
fellow assigns the Flemish version of the wonderful journey of St. Brendan 
{Reis van Sainte Brandaeii) to the twelfth century, and in his " Poetry of Eu- 
rope " gives an outline of the strange romance, which he deems of French 
origin. In the thirteenth century Bishop Voraginius of Genoa, made special 
mention of it in the " Golden Legend," and in 1483, Wynkin de Worde re- 
hearsed it in the " Life of Saynte Brandan " in its earliest English form. The 
early popularity in France of the Irish Saint's voyage is illustrated by the 
allusion of Pierre St. Cloud — that among the graceful resources of a troubadour 
was his ability to sing a tale 

" Of Arthur brave or Tristram bold, 
Of Charpel, or Saint Brendan old." 

French interest in the subject has not abated even during our time, judging from 
the fact that two French versions, as well as the original in Latin, were printed 
in Paris in 1836. In Blackiuood' s Magazine (vol. xxxix.) may be found a spirited 
translation of one of the early French romances ; and Denis Florence McCarthy 
has treated the theme in an original poem, from which an extract has been made. 

* Sketches in Erns and Tyrawley, pp. loo-l. 



V ^-^ ^ j^ 



Xoz^^^" 







Copyright, 1878, by Thomas Kelly, New Yoi'k. 



Jf T T ID JF IJ> W JIS JL r IT 




%s, 



<^ HT 



—l 1 1 I L 1 l_ 



Cop>Ti([ht,18Tfl, hy ThoiriM Kelly, New York. 



W I C K L O W. 










Thi County of 
AVicklow is one of 
the mobt enchant- 
ing territories, not 
only in Ireland, but 
in Europe For its 
size, it will proba- 
bly compare in pic- 
turesque contrasts 
of sublimity and 
beauty with any of 
similar extent in 
the world. It has 

been called the Garden of Ireland ; the Eden and boast of the inhabitants of 
Dublin ; the most picturesque of Irish counties ; and has inspired what might 
seem exaggerated strains of laudation from foreign as well as native writers. 
This susnicinn of over-praise, however, quickly fades away in presence of the 

6i 



Firsi View of Wicklow—from the Scalp. 



62 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

scenes and sensations commemorated, and the heretofore doubter is hkely ta 
discover the resources of his language insufficient to convey the compensating 
homage of his constant state of surprise, wonder and delight. He will realize 
the inability, expressed by a most appreciative writer on the subject, " to portray 
in words all the charms that embellish this romantic region ; " and feel that even 
"glimpses of the sweet haunts of this fairy land" conjure up 

" The power, the beauty, and the majesty 
That have their haunts in dale or piny mountain, 
Or forest, by slow stream, or pebbly spring. 
Or chasms, or watery depths." 

Here nature has been lavish of her bounties; and culture, taste, and well-directed 
wealth have united in developing or embellishing the scenic gifts of Providence. 
While mountains of rugged aspect, but striking outline, rise thousands of feet 
over gloriously wooded uplands and broad hills, and form the guardian almoners 
of numerous rich and fertile valleys, the face of the country is otherwise seamed 
with chasms that sink hundreds of feet into the earth. Through these the streams' 
tear in their conquering way, flashing in magnificent cataracts over steep crags, 
resounding in the cavernous clearings made by the toil of centuries, or whimper- 
ing with gentle poetical effect in pebbly brooks and reflecting pools, as they 
emerge from the gloom and meet the sunshine in the more expanding valleys. 

Within the borders of Wicklow are very remarkable contrasts of rugged, 
untamed sublimity, and tastefully developed loveliness. It is alive with beautiful 
and sparkling streams, rivers and lakes, wild cascades and stately waterfalls. Its 
glens and vales are of every variety : of the wildest grandeur, narrow and pre- 
cipitous, like the Scalp and Glen-ma-lure ; of most romantic features, like the 
Dargle and the Devil's Glen ; of almost savage sadness, as at Glen-da-lough — 
the valley of the Seven Churches ; and of fascinating fertility and expanded 
beauty, as in the Vale of Avoca and the Vale of Clara. A writer, a few years 
since, truly said : " It is a land of loveliness, of sunshine and flowers, of sloping 
hill and deep valley, of mountain and marine view ; land of rich soil and lovely 
seats, of roads of marble surface winding through incomparable demesnes ; and 
only for the loss of Parliament, with the absenteeism consequent on this vital 
loss, would be a terrestrial paradise. Notwithstanding this absentee drain, 
the resident gentry of the locality have spared neither purse nor pains in 
the improvement of their demesnes, and the face of the land is covered with 
natural beauties, as various as unrivaled, at every half-mile of the tourists' jour- 
ney, from the Bridge of Bray to Arklow, and from Wicklow Head to Cnoc-a-dru." 



WICK LOW. 



63 



The proximity of Wicklow to the city of Dublin has been of great advan- 
tage to it, both as regards the improvement of its natural attractions and the 
extension of their fame. Within easy reach of the metropolis, the eastern por- 
tion especially offers deliciously shaded retreats to successful men who seek a 
home there ; to the fashionable, it is an exhaustless summer resource ; to the 
tourist, a series of marvels at little cost of time or money ; and to the resident 
nobility and gentry, a perpetual treasury of limitless delight. The benefit is 
mutual, for few capitals of any distinction in the world are so immediately within 
such reasonable access to such a noble variety of glorious scenery. There are 
three main avenues from 
Dublin County into Wick- 
low : the coast line by Bray ; 
the western, by the road to 
Blessington leading to the 
Poul-a-phuca waterfall, and 
what might be termed the 
central — although considera- 
bly to the east of the central 
county line — through the 
Scalp. A more central ave- 
nue is that through Killakee 
and over the Kippure Moun- 
tain, by the Military Road, 
which enters Wicklow over 
the Vale of Glancree, with 
Lough Bray on the right. From Killakee, in the Dublin Mountains, there is a 
grand panoramic view embracing the city, suburbs, and bay of Dublin. The 
favorite Wicklow " trail," however, is by the Scalp, an apperture or defile which 
seems to have been created by some convulsion of nature, in which a great 
mountain of granite was split in the center, the efTect producing, as viewed from 
some distance, the appearance of the letter V. The road runs through the 
bottom of the rugged valley thus made. At either side of the road for a quarter 
of a mile, the mountain is very steep, ragged and jagged in outline, and rises to 
a considerable height. The effect is enhanced by the wild and barren character 
of the rocky walls of the 'pass. These are utterly without verdure. Nothing is 
presented to the eye but ridges of rocks, huge masses of disjointed granite 
thrown into all possible combinations and groups, leaning on each other in 




Tho Scalp. 



64 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



angular points, projecting in a variety of forms, and in places apparently held so 
loosely in position as to threaten instantaneous descent, bringing havoc in their 
train. The sensation, passing through the defile, is of wonder, not unmixed with 
awe, and even terror, at the unpleasant uncertainty as to the safety of the passage. 
Occasionally in the winter, or after heavy rains, crags are precipitated down the re- 
sounding sides, and block up the road until removed by great labor and difficulty. 
At one side of the pass, a subterranean stream of water murmurs among the 
rocks, until it finds exit into light at the foot of the descent, while in fitful unison 
may at times be heard overhead the scream of the hawk, the kite, and the raven. 

Through the de- 
- -^ . file is seen the 

Golden Spears, 
two conical 
mountains which 
are popularly 
known as the 
"Sugar Loaves." 
The great Sugar 
Loaf, above four 
miles distant, is 
especially prom- 
inent in the view 

approaching the Scalp, and, looming directly over the aperture, seems to close up 
and forbid all egress from the Avild gorge, which was formerly one of the natural 
fortresses of the Clan Ranelagh, the sept of the O'Byrnes, which with the 
O'Tooles, their correlatives, when driven by the Anglo-Normans from their 
original territory in Kildare, took secure hold in the mountain fastnesses and 
vales of Wicklow, swayed their clans for centuries, and were a terror to the 
" English of Dublin." 

The approach to the County Wicklow from the coast side is very picturesque, 
the sea from Dalkey — the southernmost extremity of Dublin Bay — to Bray-Head 
in the foreground below you, and the Wicklow Mountains rising boldly up form- 
ing a near background to the picture. It is a portion of the coast line which 
inspires exclamations of pleasure from the voyager, when steaming, after the 
usually rough experiences of the Irish Channel, into Dublin Bay and making 
for the welcoming piers of Kingstown Harbor. 

Bray-Head is a noble promontory which rises to the height of eight hundred 




Bray -Head to tlu " Suga> Loaf'^rom Dalkey — North. 



WICK LOW. 



65 







r-^. 



feet above the sea level. Under it nestles 
the town of P>ra}, a charming suburban 
\vatering-])lace, esteemed as the most beautiful town in the 
county of Wicklow. It is situated on the borders of Dublin 
and Wicklow, the di\ ision being made b) the Bray (or Dar- 
gle) River, which here forms the boundary between the coun- 
ties. The old town, or Little Bray, is on the Dublin side ; and the new 
and handsome town within the borders of Wicklow, to the beauties of 
which it adds no slight attraction. It is the most convenient "headquarters" for the 
tourist who desires to visit the scenery for which the county is celebrated, and is 
also interesting by historical connections with the past. Here, according to good 
authority, Saint Patrick made his first landing when he came to preach the Gospel ; 
although others indicate the place as somewhat more south, at the mouth of the 
5 




66 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Vartry River. However, the Saint proceeded northward, having been repulsed by 
a local chief named Nathi. . The " Annals of Clonmacnoise " tells us that on the 
Saint's landing at Inver Dea he was opposed by the Leinstermen, one of whom 
struck one of his companions on the mouth with a stone, and knocked out four 
of his teeth, from which misfortune he was called Mantatus, or the toothless, and 
the church of Kill-Mantain, now Wicklow, is said to have derived its name from 
him. 

An ancient bridge connects the old and new towns of Bray, and this was 
defended in days past by a castle evidently built by the Normans, or their de- 
scendants, as a shield against the O'Tooles and O'Brynes, the heroic native septs 
of the district. In 13 15 the clansmen destroyed the usefulness of this castle, 
and about a hundred years subsequently their descendants fought a great battle 
here with the English of Dublin. The natural beauties of the locality have been 
greatly improved during the last quarter of a century : terraces, esplanades and 
walks have been made along the bold coast ; hotels and villas have been erected, 
and every inducement created to attract the wise and the wealthy to partake of 
the health-giving atmosphere and poetical surroundings. 

Nowhere is there a more lovely tract of country than that which lies around 
Bray ; and there are few portions of mountain scenery more beautiful than that 
which encompasses it. From the railway station, but better, from all the more 
elevated lands around the town this fine circular mountain-range can be traced. 
From the church, which occupies one of the finest sites imaginable, at the top 
of the town, a panoramic view of the richest scenery is commanded Encircled 
by a range of mountains of varying outline, commencing at Bray-Head, including 
the two Suear Loafs, Douce, and terminatino- at Shankhill, the mountain line 
is only broken by the Vale of Shanganagh, which appears from this point like a 
thick forest. Killiney, Dalkey Island, and the Hill of Howth, are also in view 
from this eminence. 

Bray owes its latter-day attractiveness to William Dargan, a man who from the 
humble beginning of a day-laborer, arose to great prominence as a contractor and 
railway magnate, the encourager of national industry, the projector of the Dublin 
International Exposition of 1853, and who declined the honor of knighthood at 
the hands of Queen Victoria. But a few years ago Bray was composed of fisher- 
men's huts and dwellings, scattered few and far between. Under the practical 
genius of Dargan, these huts and cabins have given way, as by magical transfor- 
mation, to promenades, terraces, streets and squares. Surrounded by scenery 
of beauty and grandeur, open on one side to the sea, bounded on the south by 



WICKLOW. 



67 



the promontory, and inland by the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, overlooking the Valley 
of Diamonds, Bray possesses advantages which, with the improvements already 
effected, and those in progress, indicate it as destined to be one of the most 
attractive places of residence and resort within daily reach of Dublin, and one of 
the chief watering-places in Ireland. It has been called the " Irish Brighton," 
but " when we turn to the mountains and the woods, we feel how vastly superior 
are the natural advantages which Bray possesses, and how soon it might be ex- 
pected to rival Brighton in every respect, if it were as near the great English 
metropolis. There is something delightfully exhilarating in the wildness and 
freshness of the Little Sugar-Loaf and 
Bray-Head, as we look down from 
their gray rocky cliffs upon the broad 
expanse of ocean on the one side and 
the exquisitely beautiful landscape on 
the other." 

A tunnel for the Dublin, Wicklow 
and Wexford Railroad has been cut 
through the solid rock of Bray-Head 
under the engineering directions of 
Mr. Brunei. As seen in our illustra- 
tion, the rail-track runs along the 
edge of the cliff, and the abyss below 
and the great elevation above, with the swift motion of the cars, combine to 
give an exciting interest to the scene. At many places the Head rises almost 
perpendicularly from the sea, and above the railroad a delightful promenade has 
been constructed all around it, leading on the southern side by the cliff-path to 
Greystones, another and rapidly rising watering-place some five miles dis- 
tant. 

In the neighborhood of Bray are several noble residences situated among 
fine woods, hills, slopes, and carefully tended grounds, which are well worthy of 
inspection. Their possessors wisely reside here, and taking interest in the wel- 
fare of the district, are justly proud of their efforts to aid the charms of nature. 

The village of Enniskerry, two miles from Bray, situated on the lap of 
gently rising hills, its neat cottages gleaming through bright foliage, presents a 
refreshing picture. A mountain stream, the Kerry, flows from the village down a 
wooded glen until it mingles with the Glenislorane, or Dargle — an anglicized cor- 
ruption of the words Dot?'- and Gleann, signifying Oak Valley — which takes its 




A Narrow Gorge in the Dargle. 



68 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




name from the celebrated 
ra\ ine through which it 
passes, and to ^\hich it 
contributes so many 
beautiful and brilliant 
effects. 

The Dargle is per- 
haps the first, and some- 
times the onl) one of 

_ the Wicklow glens in- 

In the Dargle. troduced to visitors, and 

its celebrity is commensurately extensive. The stream divides two demesnes, 
those of Powerscourt and Charleville, both beautiful, but the former admirably 










BRIDGE IN THE DARGLE. 



70 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 






deserving the title of magnificent. The Dargle is the great resource of picnic- 
parties from DubHn, for whose comfort Viscount Powerscourt has kindly pro- 
vided tables and seats. The ravine itself is of great depth and about a mile in 
length, winding among precipitous cliffs and rocks, clothed with overhanging 
trees and brush, assuming all sorts of fantastic forms, and luxuriantly covered 

with foliage. Here barren rocks 
Ji^-iM . jut out over moss-covered 

slopes ; and there gnarled bran- 
ches of venerable trees hang 
over the stream and reach 
across it. The foliage some- 
times makes a perfect curtain 
shutting out the water, which 
is thus often unseen, but heard 
fretting and foaming through 
the bowlders far below, which 
sometimes form narrow gorges. 
On one side the mass of thick 
foliage rising upward from the 
brink of the river has called to 
mind Milton's line, 



" Verdurous walls of Paradise upraised,' 



while on the other hand the 
character of some portions of 
the glen, with the unseen river, 
so far below the surface of the 
woods in which it is lost, might 
suggest "without any extraordinary stretch of the imagination, it was a river 
in some inner world, laid open by a Titanic throe, that had cracked asunder 
the rocky crust of this shallow earth ; — the soil, and the deep-striking roots 
of the trees terminating far above us, looking like a black rim on the inclosing 
precipices." 

An eagerly sought glimpse of the troubled waters gives no " silvery relief " to 
the solemn grandeur of their gloom, the stream taking a somber tinge from the 
shadow of the overhanging rocks and dense foliage. Advance but a few steps 
and a delicious change meets the eye — the water breaking musically over blocks 




Caicade in the Dargle. 



WICK LOW. 71 

of granite, flinging up glistening spray, aud pouring forward in successive cas- 
cades, sometimes so narrow that you could easily spring over it, and then widen- 
ing into the placid dimensions of a miniature lake. 

Midway down the ravine is The Lover's Leap, a dizzy precipice, a great 
height over the river — from which there is a splendid prospect. From it every 
part of the deep glen below is embraced, gradually expanding on the left to 
the open champaign, with the blue sea in the distance ; and another charming 
view of the Dargle is from the bottom of the Glen on the margin of one of 
the miniature lakes in which the waters are confined by a ledge of rocks. Look- 
ing up the stream the waters are seen tumbling over a rocky channel, out of the 
dark woods which arise to a vast height on either side, while patches of blue sky 
are occasionally seen through the parting branches overhead. The Moss House 
is the name of a rustic banquet-hall or summer-house, erected on a picturesque 
eminence, for the accommodation or shelter of visitors, from which also one of 
the favorite views of the Dargle strikes the beholder. Immediately beneath him 
gapes a chasm in the huge granite rocks, that seem broken asunder to afford a 
passage to the water that struggles far below over a rocky bed embosomed in 
trees. Above, a dark and gloomy forest overshadows all. A path from the 
Moss House leads to the water's edge at the bottom of the Glen. As seen from 
the opposite side of the river the prospect at this point is characterized as " in 
the highest degree sublime." From thence the vale appears deep, retired and 
gloomy. At the feet the crystal stream, and the rocky chasm yawning in front. 

This scenery — a union of rock, wood and water — variously sublime, romantic 
and inspiring, continues for a mile to the top of the glen at the bridge, where 
the road from Enniskerry crosses it at the gate of the Powerscourt demesne. 
This demesne of fourteen hundred acres, with hill and dale exquisitely ap- 
portioned, and so completely inclosed by mountains as to realize the picture 
of the Happy Valley, can scarcely be equaled anywhere. Unrivaled landscapes 
can be obtained at numerous points, but some think those from near the en- 
trance unexcelled. " Here," says an observant tourist, " as we approach the 
House, the first break of scenery toward the south is inconceivably grand, soft, 
and various." The avenue winds up a gradual ascent, through undulating 
grounds, adorned with every variety of shrubs and evergreens, and immense 
old trees, some clothed with ivy. Sugar Loaf and Douce Mountains soon 
come in view, and proceeding higher we overlook an extensive glen on the 
left, at the head of which the Powerscourt Mansion is seen. The position is 
.commanding in the extreme. " When we consider," says Walker, " the extent 



^2 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




fe€ 




i:'^:^i 



of the Park, stretch- 
ing away to the water- 
fall on one side, and up 
the mountains overlooking '""- 
Enniskerry on the other, " -=- 

we cannot be surprised if 
royalty itself should covet an abode like 
this." Tinnehinch, the former residence of 
the great orator, Henry Grattan, purchased 
for him by the Irish at a cost of $250,000, 
is an interesting feature of the landscape. 

The Deer Park at Powerscourt is rich 
in natural beauties, containing many grand 
old oaks, but the noted feature is the cele- 
brated Powerscourt Waterfall, which breaks 
through a gap in the mountain, and over 
a nearly perpendicular rock over two hun- 
dred feet high. It forms the extremity of a beautiful semicircular amphitheater 
of wooded mountains, which heighten the splendid effect of the cataract. In 
dry seasons, the fall descends like a thin, transparent vail ; but after a rain, or 



TJu 



Golden Spears, from over the Glen of the 
Downs. 



WICK LOW. 



73 







^^ 



in winter, when 
the mountain 
channels have 
been charged, 
the water leaps 
forth with tu- 
multuous fury 

m a single arch and with a thun- 
dering roar, which command the 
wonder and delight of the be- 
holder. 

Taking the road south from Bray, we pass the 
splendid evergreen oaks, cypress and yew trees in 
the desmesne of Hollybrook, pursue our course at 
the bottom of the valley between the Golden Spears 
Mountains, and at about four miles from Bray we enter the romantic pass called 
the Glen of the Downs. Nothing could afford a stronger contrast to the wild 
and rugged effect of the Scalp than this richly wooded Glen. It is not a fissure 
in the earth like the Dargle, but a pass like the Scalp, only it is much larger and 




Lough Dan — }iear view. 



74 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



longer, extending a mile and a half, and having its bold mountainous sides covered 

with primitive wood, oak, hazel, 
birch, holly, with masses of modern 
plantation; larch, spruce, and 
Scotch fir, and an endless variety 
of luxuriant copse. The bottom 
of the Glen is only the width of 
the road which leads through it, 
and a small bright stream, the 
endless accompaniment of all the 
charms of Wicklow. The Glen 
forms part of the demesne of 
Bellevue, the property of the La 
Touches, to one of the ladies of 
which family the public are in- 
debted for a free banqueting-hall, 
situated on a commanding height. 
From this " Octagon-house," the 
finest views are obtained ; the 
glen beneath, rich with tints of 
foliage and age-dyed rocks, with 

the sea on the east and mountains rising on all other sides, among which the 

peaks of the Golden Spears, or Sugar 

Loaves as they are popularly called, 

tower conspicuously near, the whole 

presenting a scene of luxurious soft- 
ness, combined with grandeur and 

magnificence. The low road from 

the Glen of the Downs leads to the 

village of Delgany, which, pleasantly 

situated among beautifully verdant 

hills, and with the sea in the distance, 

presents a very pleasing view as it 

comes unexpectedly in sight. In its 

neatness, accommodations and situa- 
tion, Delgany reminds tourists of " the more favored English localities." 

From the Powerscourt Deer-Park the tourist can take the hieh road to 




Powerscourt Waterfall. 




Glen of the Downs — entrance from South. 



IV/CKLOW. 



75 




Dtl^am 



Houndwood, which has become noted as the location of the great reservoir of 
the DubHn Water-works, by which the pure and soft water of the Vartry is 
supplied not only to the capital, but to Bray, Kingstown, Blackrock, 
Sandymount, and Pembroke Township. The embankment is i,6oo 
feet long and 500 wide. The basin holds 2,482,810,483 
gallons of water, being a supply of 12,000,000 gallons daily 

for two hundred - z -^ _^ 

days. At a dis- -^ ~^ ^ ~ 

tance the basin 
gleams like a 
lake. But within 
a few miles are 
two real lakes — 
Lough Tay, or 
Luggelaw, and 
Lough Dan — • 

which will well repay the artist. Two miles from Roundwood the ascending- 
road lies between two mountains. Douce on the north, and Ballenrush on the 
■south. Up we go for three miles through a bleak, wild, and barren country, 
expectant, but still wondering where can the talked-of lakes be hid. So, while 
traveling along a level plateau, having turned from the public road, on a sudden 

two lakes in a valley far beneath swim 
"^^ into the vision. Sinking as much 

beneath the level of the surrounding 
country as the neighboring mountains 
rise above it, are two mighty excava- 
tions forming the beds of Loughs Tay 
and Dan. The sudden development 
of so much beauty is delightfully plea- 
surable ; and we gaze in wonder at the 
whole, before we can tame the eye to the varied and contrasting details. A 
glorious vale lies beneath us — immediately below. Lough Tay or Luggelaw ; 
and stretching to the south, the wild Lough Dan, connected by the river Kil- 
lough, looking from the distance like a white ribbon. Luggelaw is set among 
almost perpendicular mountains, some of the wildest, some of the richest charac- 
ter. One side is luxuriously raimented from the shore to the mountain top by 
every variety of forest trees, fir, ash, thorn, oak and elm, of gigantic growth and 




Lough Dan, from Luggelaw. 



76 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Litggelaw — the barren side. 



richness of foliage ; from this side a thousand tiny cascades spring forth, and on 
their way to the lake, through rocks, roots and tangled underwood, present num- 
berless delicious fountains. On the 
- _ other side all is bleak and bare, the 

heath-covered Douce looming over 
both. The principal supply of the 
lough is the little Annamoe River, 
which, collected from the rills which, 
furrow the mountain -sides lying 
westward, flings itself over a rocky 
precipice at the upper end of the 
lough. In close proximity to this 
waterfall is Luggelaw Cottage — "one 
of the most romantic retreats in any country" — iormerly a mountain residence 
of the La Touches, but now devoted to the purposes of a shooting-lodge in con- 
nection with a leading hotel at Bray, from which during the season an omnibus 
is run, making this charming place easily accessible to many who might other- 
wise never behold it. 

The grounds con- -=— ^ -- -~ 

n e c t e d with this 
lodge embrace the 
entire of the lovely 
but lonely lough, 
with all its magni- 
ficent boundaries. 
From the high road 
above it, the best 
view of the lough 
with the vast extent 
of surrounding 
mountains, with the 
reach of the glen between it and Lough Dan, and a portion of the latter, may 
be obtained. As Fraser remarks, although this part of the road, from its steep- 
ness in many places, is ill suited to carriages, " yet from no part is this sublime 
portion of WIcklow scenery so finely displayed." Higher up beyond the cottage 
the valley closes with a vast amphitheater of rocks. Descending by a sloping 
path through the woods the shore Is reached, and amid the seclusion and beauty 




T.oihsJi Dan. 



WICK LOW. 



77 



one realizes that for " mountain grandeur and sylvan loveliness combined, there 
is no spot in Ireland, out of Killarney, equal to this." It is 807 feet above the 
level of the sea, and occupies a circular dell of about one hundred and twenty 
acres at the head of the glen. Save in Italy, no small lake is so deep. 











^'kh'j 



hi the Vale of CI a 7- a 



Lough Dan, 685 feet above the sea level, is about two miles distant from Lug- 
gelaw, and assumes the form of a river less than two miles long and half a mile 
wide, surrounded by the mountains of Knocknacloghole and Scar on the west, 
and Sliev-Buckh on the east. It is in one of the wildest districts, and though. 





78 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

according to general opinion, losing by contrast with the variety of Luggelaw, it 
has an interest of its own. One of the mountains in which it is embosomed forms, 
at about two-thirds of its line, a headland which must be doubled before the 
remainder of the water becomes visible. The mountains are bare to the 
summits, in some parts sloping to the water's edge, and in others rising abrupt- 
ly from, and projecting over the lake, 
- ■ • *^^^ masses of rock furrowed with the trick- 

ling moisture of vegetable morasses, 
: ^'' " patched with moss and lichen, and pre- 

senting occasionally a solitary ash or 
holly growing out of its fissures. The 
base of these rocks is in some places 
hollowed into caverns by the action of 
the waters, which are at , times greatly 
agitated, being more open to the winds 
than those of Luggelaw. The glen 
J , „ between the lakes is fertile, beautiful, 

Lotign Bray. ' 

and richly cultivated. 
Returning to the point from which the grand surprise of Luggelaw and 
Lough Dan burst on our vision, and continuing the northwest inclination of the 
mountain road, we soon reach Sally-Gap. At the cross-roads, taking the one due 
north, and then following it to the east, we cross the infant Liffey, which has its 
rise near by, and have before us the Vale of Glancree, in all its length and breadth, 
with its mixture of moorland and cultivation ; in the center the Glancree River, 
made by the surplus water from Lough Bray, as well as the numberless rills and 
streams that rush down the sides of Kippure Mountain, the chief of the Dublin 
range, but whose southern side here looms over the Wicklow border. Glancree 
is the highest and one of the best defined of the Wicklow vales. It is wild, soli- 
tary, and in strong contrast, by its heath-clad effect, to the softness which exces- 
sive vegetation has given to others we have noticed. Near the head of the vale, on 
the left and under Kippure, are the upper and lower Loughs Bray. They are 
situated in a locality of much wildness, and occupy two deeply secluded dells 
about halfway up the mountain. The larger (lower) lake has a surface of sixty- 
four acres, and the upper, of twenty-eight. The former is 1,225 ^"^^ ^^^^ latter 
1,453 f^Gt above the sea level, while the broad brow of Kippure overlooks 
the lough from an altitude of 1,248, and Seefingen Mountain from 1,139 f^^*^- 
The darkness of the waters of Lough Bray — caused by the peat of the surround- 



WICK LOW. 79 

ing moorlands — is intensified by the shadows of the overhanging mountains. In 
the midst of the gloom and desolation, a charming evidence of human existence, 
in the shape of a picturesque cottage, gives to and takes from the scene a pleas- 
ing effect. This romantic residence was the retreat of Sir Philip Crampton, a 
former Surgeon-General of Ireland, and was presented to him by the Duke of 
Northumberland, when Viceroy, in memory of pleasant days spent in a cottage 
of humbler pretension on the same site, which was accidentally destroyed by fire. 
This object truly forms an " oasis in the desert." The view from the road 
near the lower lake embraces a noble prospect, from the wildness of Kippure 
to the richness of Powerscourt, with the Sugar Loaf beyond ; before us the 
Vale of Glancree, and the Mountains of War and Douce to the right (or south). 
Below us at the head of the vale is Glancree Barrack, one of those built with 
the military roads by the Government after the national insurrection in 1 798, to 
enable it to cope with and if possible control the mountain chiefs, who, like Michael 
Dwyer and Joseph Holt, successfully defied it. The Barrack, however, with 
additional buildings, is now occupied as a Reformatory for youthful Catholic 
vagrants, who receive instruction in various trades in addition to the ordinary 
education of the " National Schools." It is the largest institution of the kind in 
Ireland, and of somewhat the same nature as the noble Catholic Protectory in 
Westchester County, New York. Great attention is paid to Agriculture at the 
Glancree Reformatory, and it is true that " their labors in clearing, draining, 
subsoiling, tilling and manuring, under the skillful directions of the officers, have 
converted a large tract of barren mountain into a garden, which presents in its 
green luxuriant crops a wonderful contrast to the savage scene of rocks and 
heather that surround it." 

Having got as far north in Wicklow as we can get in this section, and having 
no desire to clamber over Kippure, which, however, we have done many and 
many a time, we will resume our pursuit of the picturesque at the southern 
extremity of Lough Dan. Here the infant Avonmore, having brightly sparkled 
through the glen between Knocknacloghole and Scar, ffows into the lake, mingles 
with the Annamoe, and gives its name to the united streams that emerge from it 
as one, and pursues its way through a series of scenes, famous in song — through 
the Vale of Clara to Avoca. The little village of Annamoe is remembered as the 
place where Laurence Sterne had the wonderful escape when a child — having 
fallen into a mill-race while the mill was going, and having the good fortune of 
being swept through unhurt. A short distance from Annamoe is Laragh, per- 
haps the most central position in the county from which to reach the greater 



8o 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



number of its wonderful and beautiful moun- 
tain, lake and glen combinations. Situated in a 
high valley in the midst of the mountains, 
where several glens of various extent and char- 
acter — such as the farnous Glendalough, 
Glendassan, which contains the lead 




-m 




mines of Lug- 
ganure, and 
through which lies the 
road to Poul-a-phuca 
and Blessington ; Glen- 
macanass, leading west 
of Lough Dan, between Scar on the east, 
and Brockagh and Thonelagee Mountains 
on the west, through which runs the Military Road , Glen 
Avon, a name given by Mr. James Fraser* to the plain ex- 
tending from Laragh in an easterly and thence northerly Rathdrwn. 
direction to Sally-Gap, a distance of twelve miles, embracing 

Luggelaw and Lough Dan— fall into the Vale of Clara, Laragh is a notable 
geographical center. Here the various roads which are carried along these glens 



Author of the long-time and favorably Icnown Hcindhooh for Travellers in Ireland, etc. 



WICK LOW. 



8i 



unite, as well as others leading to Roundwood, and east to the Devil's Glen, 
the Glen of Dunran, and Wicklow town ; to Baltinglas through Glenmalure 
on the southwest ; and last but not least, southward to that world-famous 










GUnmaliii c . 

•" scene of enchantment," — that perhaps best known of all valleys — Avoca, the 
first and second meeting of the waters, and thence to Arklow. Here also, at 
Laragh, the streams that spring from their mountain -sides and water these 
glens, flow into the Avonmore, which then takes its way down the Vale of Clara 
6 



82 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

which extends southward from Laragh to Rathdrum, a six-miles' reach of that 
lovely combination and diversity of hill, woods and water specially character- 
istic of the sylvan features of Wicklow. 

The Vale of Clara is quite beautiful and in some places romantic, giving the 
eye relief after many of the wildly grand though barren prospects on at least two 
of the routes to it. Many fine views of the Avonmore gleaming along under its 
oak-clothed banks are presented from the surrounding heights. The hamlet of 
Clara is very prettily situated about halfway down the vale, which is bound on the 
east to this point, by the hills under Trooperstown Mountains, and from the 
hamlet to Rathdrum by copse-clad heights which have a very fine effect. On 
the west the vale lies under the "foot hills" of Kirikee and Carrigliveen. The 
copse-wood is a striking feature, extending from Moneystown Hill to Rathdrum, a 
distance of three miles and a half, and having an average of a mile in width. It 
laps over into the vale of Clara for two miles ; and is almost entirely on the 
estate of the Earl of Fitzwilliam, who is the largest land proprietor in the 
county. 

The small town of Rathdrum at the end of the Vale of Clara, by the route 
we have indicated, is conspicuously and beautifully seated on the west side of the 
Avonmore, and on a steep bank of more than seven hundred and fifty feet. In 
the olden days of stage and mail coaches the Wexford coach could not enter, but 
had to turn aside, and reach the higher part of the town by a branch. Even 
after leveling to meet more modern demands, the long ascent was very severe 
on horses. Now, however, the line of the railroad to Wexford crosses the 
Avonmore near this point on a bridge which is a very picturesque object in 
the scene. One of the handbooks wisely mentions as a recent acceptable 
feature, a new hotel into which you step from the railway platform. " Erected 
on the face of a cliff, chiefly for the accommodation of tourists, it is a desirable 
resting-place for those who wish to explore the district." Other objects of inter- 
est are the handsome new Catholic Church, and the "Flannel Hall" on "Wool 
Hill," the summit of the eminence on which the town stands. A writer, sixty 
years ago, stated that the latter was erected by the Earl Fitzwilliam (in 1793) for 
"the exhibition and sale of woolen yarns, flannels, raw wool, etc., in which articles 
a considerable trade is carried on. The periodical fairs or great market days here 
are attended by crowds of dealers from all parts of the island. A very fine wool 
is grown in this part of the country." A writer of to-day supplements this pic- 
ture of industry with the following : " The mountainous regions westward of 
the town, so favorable for sheep-grazing and the production of wool, made it a 



WICKLOW. 83 

suitable place for a flannel market, and for some time the trade flourished, 
purchasers going there regularly from Dublin. But the hand-loom weaving 
could not compete with machinery." 

Leaving Rathdrum, and taking Fraser with us as a guide, we start for Glen- 
malure and the ascent to Lugnaquilla, the highest of the Wicklow Mountains. 
Making for the hamlet of Greenan, which is adjoined by a considerable wood and 
the demesne of Ballinacor, we strike into the lower part of Glenmalure. The 
glen proper is twelve miles long, that is from the Table Mountain where it 
commences to the first " Meeting of the Waters " where it has its embozuluire, and 
unites with the Vale of Avoca. Ballinacor is seven miles from the Table Moun- 
tain, and five from the first Meeting of the Waters. Glenmalure is bounded 
on the west by a mountain chain of which Croghanmoira and Garraway Stick 
are the highest summits, and on the east by the range of which Kirikee, Mulla- 
cop and Lugduff are the most elevated. The great military road which comes 
down the Vale of Glancree crosses both the ranges that shelter Glenmalure on 
its route from Laragh to Aughavanagh. The glen is traversed for its entire 
length by the Avonbeg, which, originating in some springs on the sides of the 
Table Mountain, forms the Ess-fall at the head of the glen, and receiving the 
numerous rills which trickle and leap down the ravines, pours the collected force 
into the Avonmore under the umbrageous height of Castle Howard and forms the 
Meeting of the Waters. The character of Glenmalure is as different from that 
of the Dargle or the Downs as it is from the Scalp or Glancree. It is wild but 
impressive, and the barren rocks rise in picturesque forms which give "a savage 
grandeur to the scene." 

This is true of the upper part ; but in fact Glenmalure has two distinct 
features ; one above, and the other below Ballinacor. Below it the landscape 
is undulating, soft, cultivated, beautiful. Here it is of considerable breadth, 
the hills lower, the sides widely displayed and the mountains gracefully ex- 
tended on either side : it is a sunny valley — the sweet and natural precursor 
to the Vale of Avoca. Above Ballinacor the scenery assumes that character 
of wildness generally associated with the name of Glenmalure. It becomes 
narrower and deeper. Except in the passes the mountains have an average 
height of 2,200 feet, and their precipitous sides are only broken by chasms and 
ravines which add to their barren aspect and pictorial effect. Passing Ballinacor 
upward we reach the solitary inn of Drumgoff, "where," says Fraser, "tourists 
generally stop," for the safe reason, doubtless, that " good accommodation is 
afforded." The most interesting features of Glenmalure commence here to 



84 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

attract our attention, and hence for seven miles to the base of Table Mountain, 
a continuation of magnificent close mountain scenery commands our enthusiastic 
and artistic appreciation. Many tourists are unanimous in the belief that there 
is no glen in Wicklow comparable with this portion of Glenmalure : and one, 
quoted in Bartlet, in view of the Ess-fall springing down the precipitous face of 
the mountain, says, that " with the exception of the Killeries in Connemara," the 
head of Glenmalure " is not to be equaled in the kingdom." In none of the 
other Wicklow glens do the mountains assume such well-defined outlines, and at 
the same time attain to such elevations. Nowhere is the prevailing character of 
the place less disturbed by the traces of cultivation, the attempts at improvement, 
and other unaccording circumstances ; nowhere is the repose so profound, and 
the scenery so striking ; nowhere do we appear to be so embosomed in moun- 
tains ; nor do we — continues Fraser — remember any other combination of natu- 
ral objects in the glen scenery of the district so capable of awakening emotions 
of awe and sublimity. In seasons when the thousands of rills and torrents are 
fed with water, the numberless cascades inconceivably enhance the general effect, 
adding a restless radiance of beauty to the grandeur of the glen. The road 
through the glen becomes a mere bridle-path in its mountain ascent. It leads 
over the Table Mountain at an elevation of 2,266 feet. The views from differ- 
ent points on the ascent, and especially from the summit, which commands the 
glen of I male, into which the road leads on the other side, will amply repay the 
tourist. 

Glenmalure was the fastness of the famous Feagh Mac Hugh O'Byrne, a chief 
of the sixteenth century. Spenser recommended Queen Elizabeth to spare neither 
means nor men to extirpate this dashing chief. In 1580 an English expedition 
for this purpose under Lord Arthur Grey, then Lord Deput3^ Sir Peter Carew, 
and others, was almost annihilated by the Irish under Feagh Mac Hugh, and Fitz 
Eustace Viscount Baltinglass, at this locality, which some writers erroneously 
state as having occurred at Glendalough. 

Returning to the central hamlet of Laragh we are within a mile and a 
half of the famous Glendalough or Valley of the two Lakes, or " the seven 
Churches," as it is variously called. Glendalough, which embraces a hamlet, 
many ruins and a round tower, is situated in the heart of " the O' Byrne's Coun- 
try," in the territorial subdivision now known as the barony of Ballinacor, some 
twenty-two miles from Dublin. The valley is about two miles and a half long, 
and varies from half a mile to a mile in width. It is bounded on the north by 
the mountains of Brocagh, Glendassan, and Comaderry, and on the south by 



I I 



I I 







PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



those of Derrybawn and Lugduff : and except at the entrance between Brocagh 
and Derrybawn it is completely hemmed in by these lofty, wild, bare and precip- 
itous elevations. The most unimpressionable visitor cannot fail to be affected 
by the solemn and melancholy aspect of the scene as he approaches. Here the 
Christian religion and literature flourished at a very remote period — and even 
civilizations before that era have left their mark here. St. Kevin, to whose 
faith and energy the Christian glory of the valley is due, and whose name is 
synonymous with both the extent and asceticism of the monastic life, flourished 
in the sixth century. He was born of Christian parents in 498 ; trained for the 

Christian ministry, among 
devoted teachers, priests 
and hermits, and having 
erected a monastery at 
Clon-duach, returned to his 
native locality and founded 
his chief establishment in 
Glendalough, according 
to Usher and Harris in 
the year 549. From this 
were derived several other 
religious houses in Leinster. 
St. Kevin, having well arranged the order and discipline of this institution at 
Glendalough, retired to the upper part of the valley, about a mile from the 
Abbey, and there, in a small place beset by thick trees and refreshed by rivu- 
lets, he led the life of a hermit for four years, practicing great austerities, until 
prevailed on to return to the Abbey, where, with the exception of some short 
visits to other monasteries, he continued to reside until his death. This event 
took place on the 3d of June, 618, when the saint had attained the age of 
one hundred and twenty years. 

During St. Kevin's lifetime a considerable city had grown up here, and the 
place became an episcopal see either then or shortly after his death, for some 
writers assert that he was never consecrated bishop. Glendalough subsequently 
became celebrated as a seat of learning and piety ; and the reputation of its 
founder was such that for several centuries vast multitudes continued to repair to 
it on every 3d of June to celebrate his festival. 

Pope Alexander HI., by a bull dated the 13th of May, a. d. 1179, confirms 
the city of Glendalough, with the churches, to Malchus, Bishop of Glendalough, 




The Abbey, or Priory of St. Saviour. 



WICKLOW. 



87 



and to his successors, saving the rights of the abbot. In 12 14, the See of Glenda- 
lough was united to that of DubHn, but the archbishops of the latter being Eng- 
lish, the Irish would only recognize the authority of the Bishops of Glendalough ; 
and it was near the end of the fifteenth century before a union was established. 

During the ninth and tenth centuries Glendalough was repeatedly ravaged by 
the Danes ; within sixty years in the eleventh century it was five times reduced 
by fire to a heap of ashes ; it was also ravaged in the thirteenth and fourteenth 
centuries by the English ; and under incessant incursions it finally fell into decay. 
The ruins of the churches alone remain. 

No vestige of the famous " city " was visible a few years back save a small 
paved quadrangle which indicated the site of a market-place. No traces of do- 
mestic buildings have been discov- 
ered, but the remains of a causeway, -^^^g' ^i4 ~:^^^^ 
extending from the ancient market- 
place to Hollywood, some twenty 
miles distant on the borders of the 
County Kildare, were recently visi- 
"ble. This laborious work of art 
was twelve feet wide, composed 
of roughly-hewn blocks of stone set 
edgewise, not unlike the Roman 
roads met with in England. The 
temples of stone which the holy men of the ancient Church in Ireland were 
wont to build to the glory of God were constructed in such a manner as to 
convey the idea that their founders intended they should " last forever." At 
Glendalough, as at other kindred establishments of about the same era, we find 
only the remains of strictly ecclesiastical edifices. 

We meet the first of the " ruins " on the Laragh road, at about a mile east 
of the Cathedral in the glen cemetery. It is called " the Monastery," by the 
people, and is variously known as the Abbey, and the Priory of St. Saviour. It 
is the most interesting of the detached buildings outside of the group near the 
lake ; and is perhaps architecturally the finest, as it was evidently the most exten- 
sive of all the edifices in this region. It consisted originally of two parallel 
buildings, of rare and beautiful workmanship, adorned with curious sculptures, of 
which only detached fragments are now attainable. Two of its columns remain, 
their capitals exhibiting the ornamental style of the ninth and tenth centuries. 
These, says Wakeman, in England would be pronounced Norman, more particu- 




Si. Kevin's Kitchen. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Our Lady's Church — Doorway. 



larly as the arch they are designed to sustain displayed a variety of the zigzag- 
or chevron molding, as may be seen from several stones. A great mass of 

sculptured blocks are scattered about, over- 
grown with brush and brambles. Some speci- 
mens found in the vicinity, though rude, are of 
great interest. " On one stone is represented 
a wolf gnawing a human head ; on another, 
the head of a young man, whose long hair is 
entwined with the tail of the animal." The 
character of the hair is supposed to represent 
the ancient Irish coulin or glibb, and its at- 
tachment to the wolf's tail an allegorical form 
of showing "the fondness of the one for the 
pursuit of the other." The Abbey is now in the 
demesne of Derrybawn ; and adjacent to it, in a 
small crypt, was recently found the tomb 
of St. Kevin. The Trinity or Ivy Church, 
which stands close by the roadside near the 
village, should be carefully studied, as it constitutes a very well-preserved 
example of undecorated work of the earliest, or very nearly the earliest, 
age of church architecture in 
Ireland. It consists of nave 
and choir, connected together 
with a perfectly Roman - look- 
ing arch. There was originally 
a semi-detached round tower 
or belfry, at the southwestern 
angle of the nave, making the 
third example of that curious 
style of building which we know 
to have existed at Glendalough. 
On an eminence sloping from 
the mountains toward the 
lake the principal ruins with the 
round tower form a group which affects us with somber and even melancholy 
sensations. An American writer says that " the almost deathly quiet, the op- 
pressive loneliness, the strange, deep, unearthly gloom of this moldering city 




The Church of Rhcfcart. 



WICK LOW. 89 

of the dead, are things to h& felt in all their melancholy and weird-like power, but 
which could scarcely be pictured by the most vivid word-painting." Its solemn 
solitariness is almost overpowering. It is intrinsically a place of the past. No 
place we have seen so sadly speaks to us of the past : and we do not wonder that 
Walter Scott stood with folded arms — lost in thought for more than half an hour, 
before the doorway of the " Lady Church." The principal group of ruins — consist- 
ing of the round tower, the Cathedral, the Lady Church, Saint Kevin's Church, 
or "kitchen," as it is called, and a small inclosure called the Sacristy, used as a 
burial-place for Roman Catholic clergymen — stand in a well-tenanted cemetery, 
the entrance to which is over the Glendassan River and through an archway, a 
portion of the ancient fortified wall. This gateway originally consisted of an 
outer and inner arch, similar to the celebrated Newport gate at Lincoln, in Eng- 
land, which is undoubtedly of Roman workmanship. These arches were sur- 
mounted by a tower. The outer portal, after long threatening to fall, came to 
the ground not many years ago. 

The great round tower is of course the most prominent feature of the central 
group. It is a splendid specimen, standing a little to the southwest of the cathe- 
dral. It is one hundred and ten feet high and fifty-one feet in circumference at 
the base. It had originally six floors. The doorway head is semicircular and 
cut out of a single stone. It is built of granite, and of a hard kind of slate 
wedged in behind the granite blocks. The conical cap by which it was sur- 
mounted was blown down by a storm in 1804. To those who believe in the pre- 
Christian origin of the round towers in Ireland, as many of the ablest anti- 
quaries, architects and archseologists do, the contrast which this remarkable pagan 
monument presents towering over all the. Christian ruins in the valley, whether 
of ecclesiastical or sepulchral character, is sure to lead the mind into the mys- 
tical depths .of the past. " Nothing is clearer," says O'Donovan, the eminent 
Irish scholar and archseologist, " than that Patrick engrafted Christianity on the 
pagan superstitions with so much skill, that he won the people . over to the 
Christian religion before they understood the exact difference between the two 
systems of belief." Upon the festivals of the heathen were erected Christian 
holy-days, elevated and rendered attractive by Christian solemnities. A train 
of suggestive thoughts growing out of these facts, are the natural result of a 
cogitation surrounded by these ruins of Glendalough. Men of less vivid tem- 
perament than Otway, can readily sympathize with his mood in association 
with the scene and the ruins, "where the long continuous shadow of the 
lofty and slender tower moves slowly from morn to eve over wasted churches. 



90 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



scattered yew-trees, and the tombs, now undistinguishable, of bishops, abbots, 
and anchorites, walking its round as time-sentinel, and telling forth to the An- 
cient of Days how many suns have run their diurnal and annual course since 
these holy men had descended to their graves." 

The cathedral, as may be expected, is the great stone church of the establish- 
ment, although the smallest of ecclesiastical structures in the country which have 
been dignified by the title of "cathedral." The upper portion of its walls ap- 
pears to be less ancient than the lower, which has all the character of very early 
work. In the decoration of the more modern part an Irish style of ornamenta- 
tion of about the twelfth century is distinctly marked. The nave is forty-eight 

feet long by thirty wide, and 
a semicircular arch formed 
the chancel. 

" St. Kevin's Kitchen," 
a very curious stone-roofed 
building standing at a little 
distance to the south of the 
cathedral, is believed by the 
best antiquaries who have 
inspected the ruins of Glen- 
dalough to have been a 
house of the saint converted 
into a church in the twelfth 
century. The original structure appears to have been a plain oblong, to which 
a chancel and sacristy were added ; certain it is that the additions cannot be later 
than the twelfth century, and that what was originally the east end of the build- 
ing was ait through for the purpose of forming a choir-arch. The upper portion 
of the original eastern window remains. 

It is supposed that the stone roof, and the little miniature round tower belfry 
standing upon the western gable, are additions of the same date as the chancel. 
Taking it altogether, St. Kevin's Kitchen is a most curious antiquarian study, 
and is of similar construction to St. Douloughs, near Dublin, Cormac's Chapel on 
the Rock of Cashel, and the Crypt at Killaloe. Its unromantic name is of no 
great antiquity, and was probably suggested by the chimney-like appearance of 
the bell-turret. 

What remains of our Lady's Chapel, which must have been originally a 
small building, is of great interest. This is the church which his monks erected 




St. Kevin's Cell. 



WICK LOW. 91 

for the saint when they wished to induce him to abandon that more solitary por- 
tion of the valley where the Rhe-feart Church still exists. This venerable relic of 
ancient Christian architecture, the doorway through which St. Kevin must have 
passed perhaps several times daily for years, and through which his dead body 
must have been carried for interment, remains still quite perfect, a splendid 
specimen of that style of building which our ancestors derived from works of 
a pagan time, such as the great prehistoric monuments of New Grange and 
Dowth, where, for countless ages, 

" Beneath the cairn's gray pyramid 
The urns of mighty chiefs lay hid." 

The sides and top of the opening are ornamented with a flat projecting band, and 
the soffit of the lintel with a cross. The masonry is truly cyclopean, and would 
seem to have been raised by builders who still retained a tinge of the Druidical 
fondness for the massive and time-defying. 

The Rhe-feart Church, as its name indicates, stands in the royal cemetery, 
Rhe-feart signifying the kings' burial-place. Like the " Lady Church," it consists 
simply of one oblong apartment with a square-headed doorway with inclined 
sides placed in the center of the west gable. This doorway is not ornamented 
with a cross, but a portion of a projecting band, similar to that of the " Lady 
Church," decorates it externally. Beyond some plain unimportant crosses, the 
surrounding cemetery does not, at least above ground, contain any memorial of 
the kings, chieftains, and ecclesiastics here interred. The interior, however, is 
overgrown with briers. Some writers allude to an oblong slab which bore an 
Irish inscription to the effect that it marked " the resting-place of King Mac 
Toole, who died in Jesus Christ, loio." A later writer says the last inscribed 
monument which remained was, some few years ago, broken into small pieces 
and sold by the " guides " of Glendalough, chiefly to English curiosity-seekers, 
as portions of the tomb of a " real Irish king." 

Not far from the Rhe-feart Church is a portion of a ruin — a circle of stones of 
that class of buildings usually called Claughawn, which there is reason to believe 
formed the cell of St. Kevin during a portion of his rule over "the Churches." 
The most singular remains of this description, however, is at the sylvan glen 
between the mountains of Lugduff and Derrybawn, where the Poolanass brook 
pours its little torrent over a ledge of rocks, and forms a sparkling fall. The ruin 
discloses masses of flat stones regularly laid, forming part of a circle, in the cen- 
ter of which are the remains of a rude stone cross. It is known as St. Kevin's cell. 



92 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



As it is situated in a rock which juts outward, the view of the valley in all direc- 
tions from this point is magnificent. Descending to the lake shore here, one of 
the most comprehensive views of the overhanging mountains is to be found. 

Of the remaining churches, Temple-na-Skellig and the priest's house are so 
dilapidated as not to require any especial description. The latter, we may say, 
from drawings made about the middle of the last century, was very peculiar and 
richly decorated. The former, "the Temple of the Rock," or, as it is called in 
old records, " Convent de Deserto," is situated in a solitary nook, almost inacces- 
sible save by water, under the impending mountain of Luo-duff. 

As at Killarney every- 
thing is associated with the 
wise prince O'Donoghue, at 
Glendalough everything 
is linked with Saint Kevin. 
Legends are associated 
with his churches, his cell, 
his well, his basin, his keeve, 
his bush, his chair, etc., 
but that connected with 
his bed has won perennial 
fame in the regions of ro- 
mance. St. Kevin's Bed 
is a small excavation, made, it is said by the saint himself, in the front 
of a rock under Lugduff, and overhanging the dark lake, at a height of thirty 
feet. Access to it is had from above, or below; the latter path from the 
lake shore is difficult ; while the former' is dangerous, the approach being 
by a narrow path along the steep side of the mountain, at every step of 
Avhich the slightest false movement or unsteady balance would precipitate the 
pedestrian into the lake. "There is one place in particular," says one of the ad- 
venturers, " where all the eloquence of the guide is sure to be exerted to encour- 
age the party, and where it frequently proves unsuccessful — that is the edge of 
the rock called the Lady's Leap." After passing this Rubicon, the landing-place 
above the cave is soon reached, but the descent to it must be made with great 
caution ; keeping the face to the rock down which we climb. The present writer, 
in the " hey-day of his youth," made the adventure, and succeeded in what 
was then deemed the feat of getting into St. Kevin's Bed, without a guide and 
by the mountain path. The excavation is capable of holding two persons in a 




St. Kevin's Bed. 



WICK LOW. 



93 




recumbent position, 
and the difference of 
the modes of getting into it may be 
suggested b> the getting into a small 
dormer window from below by means of 
a ladder, or from above by means of the 
roof. This rocky and isolated refuge 
Saint Kevin made — according to tradition — to conceal himself from the visits of 
a beautiful maiden Kathleen. Here he fled from temptation. But the "eyes of 
most unholy blue " from which he fled, led their lovely owner to this " rocky, 
wild retreat." 

" And when morning met his view, 
Her mild glances met it too." 



Ancie7tt Stone Cross, and Round Towe?-, at 
Glendaloush. 



In the sudden shock of surprise and anger on awaking, the saint hurled the 



94 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

persistent beauty from the beetling rock into the dark waters of the lake. Moore 
introduced this legend to popularity in a vividly dramatic ballad, and the tempta- 
tion of young Kevin and the tragic catastrophe have been admirably treated by 
Gerald Griffin. The legend thus brought home to the senses in such poetical 
forms, had its origin doubtless in an allegory based on truth — to illustrate the 
fact that here in his solitude and gloomy retirement his vows of asceticism be- 
came strengthened, he conquered the passions incident to youth and tenderness, 
rose defiant to the temptations of worldly beauty, fascination, and danger, and 
by an ecstatic effort hurled them from his path forever. This self-denial and 
fervor led to a life of extraordinary virtue and piety, which resulted in miracu- 
lous powers. These, says the Monasticon Hibernicum, drew " multitudes from 
towns and cities, from ease and affluence, from the cares and avocations of civil 
life and from the comforts and joys of society, to be spectators of his pious acts 
and sharers in his merits, and with him to encounter every severity of climate 
and condition. This influence extended even to Britain, and induced St. Moch- 
narog to convey himself hither ; who fixed his residence in a cell on the east side 
of Glendalough, where a city soon sprang up, and a seminary was founded, from 
whence were sent forth many saints and exemplary men, whose sanctity and 
learning diffused around the Western world that universal light of letters and 
religion which, in the earlier ages, shone so resplendent throughout this re- 
mote, and at that time tranquil isle, and were almost exclusively confined to it." 
Among the interesting relics of the cemetery of ruins is an ancient cross of one 
solid block of granite eleven feet high. Fragments of other crosses are scattered 
about, and a line of them across the valley between the two lakes can still be 
traced. 

■■ With Vandal Time, tlieir sculptures rude 
But sacred combat well ; 
Like trusty friends, they have outstood 
The wealth that from us fell. 

" These crosses, like great note-marks, stand 
O'er all the Celtic sod. 
Grown gray in agony of love 
Referring us to God." 

— " Eva : A Goblin Romance," Part I. 

The principal group of ruins, as seen in the engraving, are romantically situ- 
ated at the juncture of Glendassan and Glendalough, and near where the streams 
which water those glens unite. As the name indicates, there are two loughs: 



WICKLOW. 95 

the lower of small extent, the upper a mile in length, a quarter of a mile in 
width, and 441 feet above the sea level. The mountains like stupendous walls 
arise on both sides some eighteen hundred feet. The upper lake is supplied 
by two streams, the Poolanass, which has been referred to, and the Glanealo, 
which, rushing down the gorge between the summits of Comaderry and Lugduff, 
dashing and foaming through the crags and masses of broken rocks which are 
heaped in wild disorder at that end of the glen — forms a strikingly picturesque 
fall as it leaps into the lake. The Glenealo is the infant Avonmore, and takes 
that name when, after uniting with the Glendassan, it passes under Derrybawn 
Bridge, and leaves this glen of gloom and desolation. We cannot rehearse the 
many legends associated with Glendalough, or dwell on the more authentic trans- 
actions of history which embrace the wonderful defiance of the native septs of this 
territory for centuries of all foreign interference. One fact alone must suffice to 
indicate this prolonged conflict and spirit of independence. " Glendalough, the 
capital of the sept which had inherited those glens, is only twenty-three miles from 
the metropolis, the seat of the English power ; and yet they continued to defy that 
power unconquered for four centuries." On leaving the scene of so much learning 
and energy, peaceful pursuits and warlike experience, we are inclined to agree 
with Mr. Walker that the general impression left by the locality is one of sadness. 
"The aspect of the surrounding mountains being so much in keeping with 
the ruins scattered over the valley, and speaking of power, of art, and piety, in 
ages so remote that history affords no authentic records of their authors or 
origin. The gloomy lake, and the cold, stern mountains seem to be in a sort of 
mysterious communion with the ivy-clad towers and broken arches of the ruined 
temples, still haunted by human associations which produce a painful sense of 
desolation." 

Retracing our steps from Laragh to Roundwood, we can follow the course of 
the Vartry River to where it forms the boundary between the demesnes of Bal- 
lycurry and Glenmore and flows through the Devil's Glen, which according to 
Brewer might more appropriately have been denominated the " Glen of the Gods." 
The Vartry rises on the southern side of the great Sugar Loaf, receives a tribu- 
tary from a thousand feet up the eastern side of Douce with other rivulets, 
and after increased volume, and a rapid course over a high table-land and rough 
moors, is precipitated over a ledge of rocks with a splendid fall into the Devil's 
Glen. This ravine is of somewhat the same character as the Dargle, with which 
comparisons are necessarily made. It is, however, deeper and longer, being a 
mile and a half in length, and in some places the sides rise to an elevation 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




of four hundred feet. It is more somber than the Dargle, and has a grand 
waterfall at its upper end, which the other glen does not possess. The lower 
entrance is through a tunnel, and as the approach is concealed by luxuriant foli- 
age, the spectator is unprepared for the beautiful scene that bursts upon the sight. 



WICK LOW. 



97 



In a like manner the view of the glen, approached from the high, bleak, 
and barren lands above it, has all the attractiveness of strong contrast. All 
around is a bare tract of sheep-pasture ; a few steps forward, and the eye be- 
holds a picture presenting all that is rich in vegetation, varied in sylvan tints, 
bold in rocks and cliffs, and enlivened by a stream bounding and foaming 
amongst the rocks, gliding between grassy banks, or hiding under the umbrageous 
branches of natural wood. The best views are obtained from the glen road 
ascending to the fall. Brewer * thought the Devil's Glen " one of the most ro- 
mantic objects in an island fertile of subjects for the inspiration of romance." 
^^ Impending rocks and moun- 
tains and a river flowing 
through a narrow channel 
form the striking features 
of this favorite locality. It 
has beauties peculiarly its 
own, and the same writer 
on the picturesque in natu- 
ral scenery thinks "it is 
marked by some combina- 
tions of pictorial objects in 
which wood, rock, and 
water are blended in forms 
unknown " in either the Dargle or Glen of the Downs. Other English writers 
are equally enthusiastic in acknowledging its beauty — " with its roaring river, 
its huge precipices, its circuitous paths, and the noble and graceful 'fall' 
that seems a crown of glory to its head." A distinguished Spaniard, Dr. D. 
Joaquin Lorenzo Vi'llanueva, has celebrated this glen in an ode, in which, after 
alluding to the most noted and charming places of his native land, he says : 




Entrance to the Devil's Glen. 



"But I, 'mid the bosky shadows 

Of the Devil's Glen, defy the splendor 
Of all earth's mounts and rneadows. 
For a perfect peace doth lend her 
Charms supreme — there laughter's hushed and grief itself grows tender."! 

* Beauties of Ireland, by J. N. Brewer, 2 vols., Lond. 1S26. 
f " Mas yo con el sombrio 

Bosque de Devil's Glen y su bastida 
Al orbe desafio ; 

Do reina una cumplida 
Paz, hierve el gozo v el pesar se olvida." 



98 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



"Than Pindus, theme of poets, 

Leafier this vale; than Pimplea clearer 
Its crystal waves that sow its 
Breast with diamond gleams, and here are 
Silvery sands and pebbles bright than which there's nothing dearer.' 



Midway in the glen, at a suitably chosen spot a sort of rustic temple has been 
erected, which is equally available for calm contemplation when the visitor is 
alone, or for the gayer purposes of social enjoyment when on a picnic frolic 
and the sky is threatening. From this temple a 
charming walk has been constructed along the up- T - 

per part of the wood, in the course of which many 
fine views are attainable. On leaving the Devil's 
Glen, the Vartry, passing through a rude amphi- 
theater, has time, so to speak, to rest after its 
turbulent exertions, thence, flowing onward, beau- 
tifies the demesne of Glenmore, and passing r^, 
Ashford- bridge and Newrath- bridge, exhausts 
itself into the Broad Lough, a tidal marsh near 
the town of Wicklow. Between Ashford and 
Newrath it flows through the demesne of Ro- 
sanna, famous for its venerable trees, among 
which are some of the finest oaks and Spanish 
chestnuts in the country. Famous for the pos- 
session of those woods in which all poets de- 
light, Rosanna is still more famous as the home of a lovely and gifted Irish 
poetess, Mary Tighe, who here wrote her beautiful and imaginative poem Psyche, 
founded on the classic allegory of Love and the Soul. It is written in the Spen- 
serian stanza, and is characterized by elegance, classical taste, a wealth of graceful 
imagery, and a brilliancy of coloring rarely excelled. Chambers says that she 
"evinced a more passionate and refined imagination than any of her tuneful 
sisterhood." " Was not Tighe an angel," exclaims one of the critics of the 
Nodes AmbrosiancB, "if ever there was one on earth — beautiful, airy, and evanes- 
cent as her own immortal Psyche?" Lovely and accomplished Mrs. Tighe in 
youth had mixed with the gay world, but extreme sensibility, crowned by a 
happy marriage, led her to retirement. She was an invalid for several-years, and 
Moore has made her early death the subject of the exquisite lyric, " I saw thy 
form in youthful pride," concluding : 




Htad of Dtvil s Glen. 



WICKLOW. 



99 



" If souls could always dwell above, 

Thou ne'er hadst left that sphere ; 
Or could we keep the souls we love, " 

We ne'er had lost thee here, Mary ! 
Though many a gifted mind we meet, 

Though fairest forms we see. 
To live with them is far less sweet 

Than to remember thee, Mary." 

Rosanna, Avondale, Glenmalure and the Vartry naturally Inspired the expres- 
sion of Mrs. Tighe's admiration. The chestnut bowers of the former were nota- 
ble in her day, at the beginning of 
the century, and their broad shadows 
- to-day are evidence of ancient ances- 

try and of a long reign of care and 
peace in this happy valley. 

Convenient to the Devil's Glen, and 
on its northeast is the Glen of Dunran, 
which exhibits features of interest, es- 
pecially when we learn that within less 
than a century a scene as rocky as 
the Scalp has been transformed by 
art into one of attractive vegetation, 
trees having been planted in the inter- 
stices of the rocks, where to all appear- 
ance there was scarcely soil enough to 
cover the roots. The narrow ravine 
stretches along the base of Carrig na 
Muck, the ridge on the opposite side 
lying in front of the higher summit of 
Dunran. The avenue, through which strangers are permitted to drive, runs 
through the demesne of Dunran, and is about two miles in length parallel to the 
public road. 

The Glen of Dunran differs from all those we have been describing; in its 
peculiar conformation on the one hand, aiid in its exceptional want of a stream 
flowing through it; which is owing to its altitude. It is nevertheless everywhere 
interesting, from the finely wooded and romantic steeps along the base of which 
we travel : particularly at the eastern entrance, where by some natural upheaval 
the stratified rocks have been tilted up on end, and from various points of view 




the Dcvil s Lrhn 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



present singular and grotesque forms : some bearing striking resemblances to 
towers, spires, minarets and fortifications. From the artificial pond near the 
center of the ravine, a path winds for about half a mile through the wood lead- 
ing to the ascent by which the View Rock is reached. From this point the view 
is, as may be expected, well worth the trouble to obtain it. Here, you command 
the rich country stretching from the base of the hill to Wicklow town ; the ex- 
tensive oak wood which clothes the sides of Carrig na Muck, and constitutes the 
principal feature 

of the ravine ; y-=^^^^qy^ ::it^ 

and the sterile 
rocks Avhich rise 
from the wood 
to the summit of 
the mountain of 
Dun ran. The 
fine forest scene 
which is here 
presented to our 
view, is greatly 
heightened by 
the dark foli- 
age of the old 
pines scattered 
through it, and 
which clothe 
the conical rock 

forming the eastern boundary of the ravine, where the upheaved strata referred 
to are so strikingly prominent in a variety of shapes. The summit of Dunran 
is 1,122 feet above the level of the sea, and a good view of the beautiful tract 
of country from the base of the mountain to Delgany is obtained from the high 
ground near the northern entrance to the glen. Fraser recommends those who 
have not had the prospect from the View Rock to take the high road by Dunran 
House to the Glen of Kiltymon on the north, on which the views are better than 
from the lower roads along the route.* 

While in this vicinity, reference may be made to the man}' fine demesnes 
in the neighborhood of Newtown-Mount-Kennedy, a couple of miles north of 




The View Rock, Dunran. 



■ Fraser's Hand-book, p. 1S5. 























^-.^T_^^'l 




WATh.Ki-Al_J_ IN THE DEVIL'S GLEN. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Dunran ; and situated in the center of that rich tract lying between the Downs 
Mountain and the hill of Delgany on the north, the secondary range of hills 
which sweep from the Downs to Dunran on the west and south, and the sea on 
the east. Of these variously attractive places, the most noticeable are Wood- 
stock, Mount Kennedy, Glendaragh, Altadore, which are enlivened by pleasant 
streams. In a glen of the latter, called the Hermit- 
age, is a waterfall which is esteemed the special 
attraction of a retreat otherwise deemed delicious. 
Rathdrum or Drumgoff is usually chosen as the 
\, starting-point for the ascent of Lugnaquilla, which 
rises to the height of 3,039 feet, and is one of the 
five mountains in Ireland which lift their heads one 
thousand yards above the level of the sea. On the 
route described Drumgoff is of course the nearest 
place : and on leaving the inn we soon pass the lonely 
barrack, take the military road toward Aughavanagh, 
and after a short distance turn to the right and climb 
the front of Drumgoff Hill. Having reached the top, 
the course lies northward, following the bed of a moun- 
tain torrent up a sloping vale for a considerable dis- 
tance. Kelly's Lough, a small pond in a hollow, is next passed, and then a steep 
precipice of loose rubble stone and long grass tests the powers of endurance of the 
tourist. Surmounting this steep, and gaining the ridge above it, the dark cliffs of 
Lugnaquilla come in sight ; thence a smooth sod leads to the summit, so that, with 
the exception of a comparatively brief space, the ascent, if the weather is favora- 
ble, does not present many great difificulties to the persistent sight-seer. The 
mountain top embraces a large extent of table-land, and the highest point is 
marked by a stone, called Pierce's Table, resting on low supporters, some- 
what resembling a Druidical cromlech. From the summit a very splendid and 
extended panorama is unrolled on all sides. Toward the north, facing the glen 
of Imale, the side is broken into a secluded hollow beyond Kelly's Lough, over- 
hung by bold and precipitous rocks, called the North Prison, beyond which 
are seen the plains of Kildare, Meath and West-Meath. Southward toward 
Aughavanagh the mountain is more immediately escarped into a secluded dell, 
the South Prison, as on the north, and the eye ranges over the whole of 
Wexford County and its ocean boundaries in the far distance. On the south- 
west a vast tract from the base of the mountains to the higher summits of Tip- 



Waterfall at Hermitage. 



WICKLOW. 103 

perary is embraced, holding between the central parts of the counties of Carlow 
and Kilkenny ; while to the east are those ranges of beautiful hills that wavelike 
raise their crests and fade into the horizon over the Irish Sea. It is suggested 
to those who make the ascent of Lugnaquilla and have not seen the Ess-fall, to 
return by the latter route, which is only three miles longer, a distance that will 
be more than compensated by the views in Glenmalure.* 

As previously stated, the lower part of Glenmalure expands in a pleasant way : 
the hills sloping back on either side, and being wooded to the water's edge, 
present a naturally attractive opening to the still more beautiful Vale of Avoca. 
The Avonmore which has its origin in the sad region of Glendalough, and the 
Avonbeg which forced its way through the wild fastnesses of the upper Glenma- 
lure, uniting at Castle Howard, form the world-famous " Meeting of the Waters," 
and henceforth take the name of the Avoca from the vale through which it 
passes. From this point to Arklow, the scenery is unequaled for its variety of 
beautiful views in which the pleasingly picturesque is combined with the most 
strikingly romantic. The Vale of Avoca is distinguished by a most admirable 
admixture of mountain, forest, lawn, and river scenery. The hill-sides are gener- 
ally not more than a quarter of a mile distant from each other, and for nearly 
eight miles are thickly wooded. The road winds through this vale, which em- 
braces the grand woods of Castle Howard, Ballyarthur, Castle Macadam, Shelton 
Abbey, and Glenart. From Castle Howard — which occupies a proud position on 
an eminence two hundred feet over the water, and seems to be upheld by the tops 
of the trees which present a dense wall of foliage from the river bank to the 
house — to the forest-embosomed Glenart, a succession of sweet, soft and tranquil 
pictures fill the vision and call forth renewed expressions of delight. Tourists 
of all classes and nationalities are almost ecstatic over the pleasure received here. 
Three-quarters of a century ago, Sir John Carr visited Avondale, the splendid 
residence of Sir John Parnell, who lost the Chancellorship of the Exchequer by 
opposing the Union, and gave a pen-picture of the opening of this vale. "A 
new scene of enchantment presented itself at the ' Meeting of the Waters,' and 
riveted us in silent admiration. It was a scene of valleys, whose leafy sides 
were covered with the most luxuriant foliage, presenting a compact slope of 
leaves through which neither branch nor trunk of tree could be seen. Upon the 
top of one of these umbrageous mountains, a banqueting-room or tower arose, the 
casement of which was brightened by the sun ; whilst below, dimly seen through 

* See Frasev's Hand-book, pp. 235-7. 



104 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

over-arching beech trees, a confluence of streams mingled with the river under 
the blue mist of approaching evening." * 

A late writer is not less picturesque in conveying his appreciation of the same 
scene. " Nature," he says, "has here scattered her charms with a liberal hand: 
waving woods, clear waters, and verdant shores combine to render the scene one 
of surpassing softness and beautiful tranquillity." It is not a scene in which 
either the poet or painter would find resources to awake or fill the imagination 
with sensations of sublimity or terror : but it is superabundant in those qualities 
of repose and peace which have found fitting expression in the exquisite lyric of 
Moore. Evidently taking inspiration from the Meeting of the Waters, the poet 
conveys the effect produced by the reposeful bloom and " bosom of shade " so 
strikingly characteristic of the whole vale. Notwithstanding its popularity, the 
brevity as well as the beauty of the lyric suggests its reproduction here, as 
appropriate. 

There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet 
As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet ; 
Oh ! the last rays of feeling and life must depart, 
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart. 

Yet it was not that Nature had shed o'er the scene 
Her purest of crystal and brightest of green ; 
'Twas not her soft magic of streamlet or hill, 
Oh ! no, — it was something more exquisite still. 

'Twas that friends, the beloved of my bosom, were near. 
Who made every dear scene of enchantment more dear. 
And who felt how the best charms of nature improve, 
When we see them reflected from looks that we love. 

Sweet vale of Avoca ! how calm could I rest 

In thy bosom of shade, with the friends I love best, 

Where the storms that we feel in this cold world should cease. 

And our hearts, like thy waters, be mingled in peace. 

A strong occasional contrast to the general luxuriance of forest effect, is 
formed by the appearance of wild and barren rocks, particularly near the copper 
mines of Cronbane and Ballymurtagh which succeed to the woods of Castle 
Howard, and lie on different sides of the river, nearly opposite to each other — 
Ballymurtagh on the west, and Cronbane on the east. A vitriolic stream from 
the latter, years ago destroyed one of the finest salmon fisheries at Arklow. 



* The Stranger in Ireland, etc., by Sir John Carr, author of ^ Northetn Summer ; The Stranger in France, etc., 1807. 




VALE OF AVOCA. 



io6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The working of the mines revolted the feehngs of the anglers, one of whom from 



the " sister island " at the time wrote, 




Second Meeting of tht ]VatL> i ft om Bal/intiuiph 



I am sure, but for this noxious infusion, 
that the Avoca would abound in white 
trout, and afford to the angler, through 
its romantic course, not less sport 
than our father Walton experienced 
in the resembling waters of the Dove 
in Derbyshire." 

Through varied scenery we reach 
the second Meeting of the Waters, 
made by the junction of the Aughrim 
(or Avonbeg, yellow river) with the 
Avoca, where the river is crossed 
by a substantial stone, bridge, though 
the locality retains its former name 
of " The Old Wooden Bridee." As- 



cending the hill at this point by an embowered winding path, a view of rare 
interest is beheld. The Second is thought by many to outrival the first Meet- 




Near "IJie Old IVooden Bridge. 



ing of the Waters : but it is not the water alone that renders this second beauty 
specially attractive. It is the Meeting of the Glens. " From the east and the 




ci/(?iyy-a-AA^yCi^a^ ^^y^^^j^// , /'>,: ,'^/ icA/^ct-iA- 



SEWTCEK , THOMAS HELIX, 



WICKLOW. 



107 



-west, the north and the south they come hke rivers to the sea." From this point 
five vales or glens are visible, as well as Croghan-Kinsella, which contained the 
Wicklow gold mines worked in the last century, and commemorated in a dra- 
matic piece by John O'Keeffe. 

The vale of the Avoca widens gradually in its approach to Arklow : between 
the mines and the latter, on the east of the river the continuous woods of Bally- 
arthur and Shelton rival in beauty the range of woods terminating in Glenart 
on the opposite side. The town of Arklow, and its old ruined castle standing 
on an eminence over the Avoca, which, after beautifying so much glorious 
scenery, discharges itself through a bridge of nineteen arches, have a grand and 
imposing appearance ; while an extensive sea view terminates the prospect. 

Arklow was the scene of a memorable battle between the royalist forces 
under General Needham, aided by Lord Farnham, Sir Watkin W. Wynne, 
Colonel Skerret, Colonel Bainbridge and others, and the Wexford nationalists 
from Gorey, on the 9th of June, 1798. The "insurgents" intended attacking, 
the town both from the sea side and from the opposite quarter. The garrison 
learning this, was extensively reinforced and advantageously posted outside of 
the town ; where the two forces met face to face, in a regular pitched battle. The 
fire began with the regularity of disciplined troops, and was maintained for hours. 
The fortune of the day was various, until the insurgents threw the army into 
confusion by dismounting the royal cannon and following the achievement by sin- 
gular bravery. The royal officers became alarmed. General Needham had given 
the orders for retreat. Victory seemed with the nationalists — when, their ammu- 
nition giving out, they retired to Gorey, unpursued, however, by the royalists — as, 
says the Protestant historian 

Rev. Wm. Gordon, " a pur- — -,^-^- 

suit would have been very _ ..i, 

hazardous." At this battle, ,^ 
the priest-general Rev. Mi- 
chael Murphy, leading on a 
division of pike-men, was 
torn to pieces by a cannon- 
ball. 

As we have gone from 
north to south of Wicklow "" ' ^----~-- 

Lower Vale, and Shelton Abbey. 

in search of the picturesque, 

we shall have to take a trip to its western border by the road from Laragh, or 




io8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



by the road from Dublin, through Tallaght, Brittas and Blessington, to see, 
four miles from the latter, the romantic falls at Poul-a-phuca. This celebrated 
cataract is formed by the Liffey, which, in its devious meanderings, enters a 
deep chasm amid perpendicular rocks, and throws its accumulated mass of water 




over a series of rocky walls and ledges into a deep pool, called in Irish Poul-a- 
phuca, the pool of the Pooka, or Puck's hole; the Irish elf Phuca — an odd mix- 
ture of merriment and malignity, being a counterpart, if not prototype of Puck the 
" merry wanderer of the night." A picturesque bridge of a single arch — sixty- 
five feet — has been thrown over the gorge, and adds to the scenic effect. Fine 
views can be obtained from a banqueting-room below the falls, and from a cot 
above the bridge. The breadth of the gorge between the rocks is forty feet, and 
the height from which the waters successively fall from the upper stage beyond 
the bridge, i8o feet. The chasm under and below the bridge widens to a ravine, 
and the river Liffey spreads over a rugged bed for some distance, and then 
takes a graceful course to Ballymore Eustace ; through Kildare and Dublin, 
where we shall agrain meet it in some charmino- scenes. 



ANTRIM. 




The Glints Gxie Cxusewxy 



The County of Antrim is famous for the remarkable and magnificent coast 
range which presents such wonderful features to the eye of art and science 
almost throughout the entire extent of its ocean boundary from the mouth of 
the Lagan to the mouth of the Bann. This region has long been a subject of 
inquiry and delight to geologists, philosophers, scientists, artists and tourists. 
The mountains which are highest along the coast are not only strikingly pictur- 
esque, but are peculiarly attractive in displaying the strata of which their wind 
and wave wracked steeps are formed. The Giant's Causeway, one of the, in 
•every sense, monumental wonders of Antrim — not to say of all nature — is evea 

109 



no PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

enhanced by the promontories, rocks, cliffs, caves and ruins in its vicinity. To> 
convey some general idea of the topography of this coast, of which so much has 
been written, is difficult. It has been suggested, to somewhat understand its 
character, that the reader look at the map, and before the mind's eye imagine a 
line extending from Belfast to Portrush — a circuit of some sixty miles — presenting 
a resemblance to the continuous walls of a fortified city, with all its bastions, 
curtains, and battlements, and he may arrive at some idea of the stupendous 
masonry with which nature at this extremity of the island resists the perpetual 
force of a turbulent ocean. This battlemented line is intersected by a great 
number of bays, which are usually designated " ports," at the extremity of each 
of which lies a valley, stretching into the country, generally divided by a stream 
of limpid water, and bounded by basaltic mountains which form the eastern and 
western boundaries of each bay. The interior of the county, which expands into- 
fertile and pleasant plains and vales, might, as Dr. Drummond remarks, be char- 
acterized by its valleys running in an opposite direction to those on the coast, 
" Thus the vales of Six-Mile- Water and Glenwhirry are opposite to those of Larne 
and Glenarm ; the rivers of the former hastening to join the waters of Lough 
Neagh, while those of the latter empty themselves into the sea." The county is 
almost entirely surrounded by water — on its exterior line by Belfast Lough, the 
Irish Channel and the Atlantic Ocean, and on its interior by the Lagan, Lough 
Neagh, Lough Beg and the Bann ; — hence the old name Ean-dr^nni, the " ridge 
by the water," or, as otherwise translated, the " habitations by the waters." 

If Antrim is justly celebrated for its natural features, it is equally, perhaps in 
the eyes of commerce more, celebrated as the home of great industries, developed 
by energy of character, scientific appreciation,. business enterprise, and commer- 
cial integrity. As Manchester is the cotton capital, Belfast is the linen capital of 
the British Empire. Belfast surpasses all other places in Ireland in the progress- 
and rapidity of its prosperity, and in this reminds an English writer of "the 
stories of American cities and towns." It is situated about twelve miles from 
the sea, at the mouth of the Lagan, which separates Down and Antrim, at the 
southern extremity of what was once called Carrickfergus Bay, but now Bel- 
fast Lough. Although built on an alluvial flat only a few feet above the sea 
level, the general arrangement of the streets, invariably running toward the sur- 
rounding hills and acting as funnels to convey constant currents of pure mountain 
air into the heart of the town, renders it very healthy. Although the vicinity is 
eminently historical and full of antiquarian and archaeological objects of interest, 
the town of Belfast itself is thoroughly modern, no house in it dating earlier than 



ANTRIM. Ill 

the middle of the last century. The castle, to the erection of which Belfast owes 
its existence as a town, was destroyed by fire in 1708, three of the ladies Chiches- 
ter perishing in the flames. The site of the castle, which was a magnificent 
structure, is now occupied by the castle buildings and castle market ; and the traces 
of the past history of Belfast are only to be found in the names of some of the 
older streets and localities. Thus Cromac Street and Cromac Place furnish 
reminiscences of Ballycromage, an- 




ciently a townland and probably a 
place of execution, Cromog signify- 
ing " a gallows." Clowney Bridge 
recalls Ballyclony, " the place of the 
meadows." Friars' Town — from 
Baile na inbrathair, or " the town iJ 
of the friars " — indicates the former 
existence of a monastery there. 
Millfield, on the western side, was 
the probable site of the mill and 
brewhouse which, at the end of the 
sixteenth century, were the only 
buildings here in addition to the 
castle. 

The rise of Belfast has been 
singularly rapid. Two centuries 
ago it was a mere fishing village. Carrickfergus was the principal entrepot for 
merchandise consigned to the adjacent country. Even after Belfast had in- 
creased in commercial importance, ships of large burden landed four miles dis- 
tant on the Down side of the Lough, and even as late as 1839 steamers plying 
between Belfast and Liverpool were compelled, at low water, to land their pas- 
sengers by means of small boats, at Donegal Quay, the only one then existing. 
An act of Parliament of June 30th, 1837, authorized a corporation to preserve 
and improve the port, and by remarkable ingenuity and judgment this body 
overcame numerous obstacles. Another act of June 21st, 1847, created a Board 
of Belfast Harbor Commissioners, under which the improvements in progress 
were completed and others projected." Indeed the result of the labors of these 
bodies has been hailed as almost of a magical character. A new channel has 




Methodist LolU^c, L«:ljast. 



* A lucid account of obstacles encountered, and the ability by which they were surmounted, will be found in The 
Ancient and Modem Histoiy of the Maritime Ports of Ireland, by Anthony Marmion. Fourth ed., London, iS6o. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 





1. "iU\x\XVl 





i;Jl\,st—Aiilyiiii side of tli 



been constructed, enabling vessels drawing from eighteen to twenty feet of 
water to come up close to the quays, the river frontage of which is at present 
upward of two miles in extent ; while five docks and basins, with a water-surface 
of ninety-six acres, furnish accommodation for vessels from all the leading 



ANTRIM. 



"3 





:W;ii^^-,;:^T^:31|i 




^.-^^,. ^ C,'."v ■^^—■- - of tliL Lagan. 

European and American ports. Dry docks and graving docks have been added 
to the various ship-building establishments, in the principal of which, that of 
Harland & Wolff, which employs over two thousand hands, all the United States 
Mail Steamers of the " White Star " line were built. 



114 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Our " Bird's-eye View" presents a good idea of the situation of this fine town. 
The broad open space on the right is Queen's Quay with its ample accommoda- 
tion ; Donegal Quay on the opposite side of the river is principally used by the 
steamers plying to and from London, Liverpool, Glasgow, and other ports. 
The Lagan is crossed here by two splendid bridges, Ormeaugh Bridge, and 
Queen's Bridge, the latter of which, consisting of five granite arches of fifty 
feet span each, is a conspicuous feature in the view. It occupies the site of 

the old Long Bridge, which received 
so much damage by the passage of 
Schomberg's heavy cannon, on its 
way from Groomsport to the Boyne 
in 1689, that it never afterward 
was considered secure. We cannot 
but allude to the picturesque back- 
ground made by Divis Mountain, 
and Cave Hill (crowned by Mac- 
Art's fort), which, rising as it were 
from the tidal waters of the Lough, 
reach an altitude of 1,567 and 1,185 
feet. The diversified and romantic 
acclivities of Cave Hill are graced 
by fine villas, gardens and planta- 

Queen's College. tions 

The general appearance of Belfast immediately and favorably impresses the 
mind of every visitor. While the busy scenes in the leading thoroughfares re- 
mind one of the ceaseless activity of Glasgow, Manchester, and other large centers 
of manufacturing industry, there is comparatively little of the smoke and dust 
which seem to have become permanent characteristics of those places. The 
activity of Belfast in commercial enterprises did not jarevent its inhabitants from 
cultivating letters, arts and science. Printing was introduced in 1696, and the 
first Bible printed in Ireland was printed here in 1704. Among the principal archi- 
tectural ornaments of the town are the buildings devoted to education and intel- 
lectual culture. Of those there may be enumerated the Belfast Academy, the 
Royal Belfast Academical Institution, the Model School, School of Art, Public 
Library, the Queen's College, the Presbyterian College, and the Methodist Col- 
lege. The places of religious worship, especially those of recent erection, are 
distinguished by architectural merit and effect. The Presbyterian and Wesleyan 




ANTRIM. 



115 




Presbyterian College. 



are of course largely in the majority, the former having thirty and the latter 

fifteen churches. The Baptists, Independents, Friends, Unitarians, and other 

Protestant denominations also possess sev- 
eral pUces of worship, as do the Roman 

Catholics, the most notable among the 

latter being St. Malachy's and St. Patrick's, 

both of which are on a cathedral scale, and 

in the Pointed style. The latter have also 

several conventual establishments. 

The Queen's College, opened in 1849, 

is a brick building in' the Tudor style, with 

an elegantly designed tower rising in the 

center. The number of students averages 

four hundred annually. During the noted 

meeting of the British Association in Bel- 
fast in 1874, the fine library of this college 

was appropriately utilized for committee 

consultations, and similar purposes. This 

college was built from the design of 

Charles Lanyon, county surveyor of Antrim; who also designed nearly all of 

the public buildings — the churches and lunatic asylum excepted — of Belfast. 

The Presbyterian College, erected in 1853, is devoted to the training of 

students intended for the ministry. The professorial chairs are endowed by 

Government. 

The Wesleyan Methodist College, erected in 1868, at a cost of over $150,000, 
^ possesses an en- 

dowment of $125,- 
000, raised by 
voluntary contri- 
butions, and re- 
ceives about three 
hundred students 
annually. 

One of the in- 
stitutions of 

which Belfast feels justly proud is the Botanical Garden. It is near the Queen's 

College, covers an area of seventeen acres, and extends to the Lagan. Its 




Botanical Garden, 




LIBRARY, QUEEN'S COLLEGE. 




THE ALBERT MEMORIAL. 



ii8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



conservatories, its fine collections of plants and native heaths, specimens of forest 
trees, delightful scenery, and pervading effect of unremitting care and taste, pre- 
sent constant sources of admiration. 

The Albert Memorial, which stands at the foot of High Street, is of very 
striking appearance. It consists of a clock-tower, with open belfry and spire, 
the face next High Street being embellished by a statue of the Prince Consort. 




A'ort/i Gate, CarriLkJ'crgn 



The height of the structure, one of the most graceful of its kind, is 138 feet. It 
Avas erected by public subscription, and completed in 1S69. 

In every aspect Belfast is attractive. A distinguished and gifted American, 
Samuel S. Cox, with the growth of the great cities of his country in his ex- 
perience and before his mind's eye, writes " that no American city of the same 
size presents so much activity and commercial life : while at the same time, it is 
laid out with an elegance which betokens foresight and grace." Mr. Cox's visit 
was made toward the end of the month of August, and he describes the fields 
as "snow-white with linen bleaching in the sun, while the country between 
Drogheda and Belfast waved with the flax, some of which was in process of 
pulling." * 

* The Buckeye AlimaJ, by Samuel S. Cox, p. 395. 



ANTRIM. 



119 



The Irish Hnen manufacture — allusion to which, however brief, must be made 
in connection with Belfast — dates from a very remote period. It is said that so 
early as a.d. 12 16 it was in a flourishing condition, and that in a.d. 1245 Walter 
de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, had parcels of linen woven for his household. At a 
much earlier date, the Danes, in sacking Bangor, are said to have carried off vast 




Carrickfergus Castle^from the land side. 



quantities of fine linen robes. The linen cloth was usually dyed with saffron, 
and was worn by the inhabitants in large loose-fiowing robes, requiring some 
thirty or forty yards for each garment. When Shane O'Neill made his memorable 
visit to the Court of Elizabeth, the saffron-hued vests of his followers attracted 
as much attention from the Londoners as their flowing locks. The real progress 
of the Irish linen trade dates, however, from the settling of the French refugees 
in and about Lisburn in 1699. They brought with them the use of the spinning- 
wheel, and various improvements in weaving and bleaching, the adoption of 
which did more to benefit the trade than all the laws which had been passed for 
its protection. In 171 1 the Linen Board was formed "for the encouragement of 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




the flax and hempen manufactures of Ireland," having the distribution of an 
annual grant of about $100,000, voted by Parliament. The protective system 
received further developments in later years, but did not prevent the linen indus- 
try from experiencing several seasons of extreme depression, especially during 
the American War of Independence. The prosperity of the trade dates from 
1828, when the Linen Board was dissolved, and the various restrictions on the 
manufacture removed. The capitalists, thrown entirely on their own resources, 

without the least 
prospect of a re- 
turn to the boun- 
ty system, were 
compelled to 
adopt every pos- 
sible improve- 
ment, and so en- 
ergetically did 
they adapt them- 
selves to the new 
order of things, 
that up to this 
time they have kept a foremost place in the markets of the world. 

The developments of the linen industry are both numerous and impor- 
tant. The weaving of diaper was first introduced at Newtownards by James 
Bradshaw, about a century and a half ago. The manufacture of damask 
was introduced about the same time at Waringstown by Richard H olden ; at 
Lisburn by William Coulston ; followed up by Michael Andrews at Ardoyne. 
By these every new invention for perfecting the workmanship was introduced. 
Some of the original designs for table linen produced in this neighborhood stand 
unrivaled. Damasks from these looms at present adorn the tables of Queen 
Victoria and some of the other crowned heads of Europe, as well as of many of 
the leading nobility. Lurgan has long held the first place in the manufacture 
of cambric, lawn, and cambric handkerchiefs, and in diapers, and Ballymena 
stands out pre-eminent for its fine yard-wide plain linens. 

Carrickfergus, ten miles from Belfast,- formerly the county town of x\ntrim, 
received its name from Carrig, a rock, and Feargus, an Irish hero who was lost 
in a storm some three centuries before the Christian era. It has an ancient and 
turbulent record of wars, and sieges, and sanguinary conflicts. It was surrounded 



Swiff s Church at Kilroot, 



ANTRIM, 




by a wall, some traces 

of which are yet visible 

on the western side , 

and the North Gate, iri 

good preservation, still 

remains The streets 

within and without the ^ ^^^t-=;^S^ 

walls are narrow and ,,, 

Lrlenarm. 

antiquated. The chief 

object of interest now, as it was the commanding object of possession in the past, 
is the venerable castle. Standing on a low rock, it projects into the sea, and is 
ordinarily surrounded on three sides by water. It occupies a military position of 
great importance, and is the only one of the ancient Norman fortresses remaining 
in a state of preservation. It is garrisoned by troops, mounts twenty-five pieces 
of cannon, and is the most extensive depot for small arms in the North of Ireland. 



122 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

This historical pile was built by Sir John de Courcy in 1178, Henry II. 
having made him a grant of all the land he might conquer in Ulster. Toward 
the town are two half-moon towers, and between them is the only entrance, 
defended by a strait passage with loop-holes. About the center of this passage 
Avas a drawbridge, protected by a barbican still to be seen. Between , the half- 
moons there was also an aperture through which to fling stones, melted lead, etc., 
on the assailants. There is a portcullis and aperture for the same purpose in- 
side, and still farther within, the lower and upper ballmm, ofificers' quarters, 
armorer's forge, furnace for heating lead, bomb-proof vaults, and all the other 
necessary resources of a powerful stronghold. The square tower is divided into 
five stories, in the third of which is the largest room, being twenty-five feet 
high, thirty-eight feet broad, and forty feet long. Within the keep, the walls of 
which are nearly nine feet thick, was a draw well, now nearly choked up, thirty- 
seven feet deep, the waters of which were said to possess medicinal virtues. 

This fortress, as suggested, was for centuries the objective point of many 
chiefs and invaders. " A right of supremacy over the lords of this territory (the 
ancient Dalriada, and Dalaradia) was claimed by the powerful family of the 
northern O'Neills, who were at length deprived of the southern part of this 
county by the family of Savage, and other English (Anglo-Norman) adventurers."* 
In 1315, Edward Bruce, having landed at Olderfleet (JVolder Firtli^ captured 
Carrickfergus Castle after a most vigorous defense by Sir Thomas Mandeville, 
who was killed in a sortie. After the defeat and death of Bruce, the English re- 
gained possession, but in 1333 William de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, was assassinated, 
and the O'Neills obtained possession, either extirpating the Anglo-Normans or 
reducing them within narrow bounds. In these prolonged conflicts, " several 
families," says Thierry, "who possessed great domains in those parts, such as the 
Audelys, the Talbots, the Touchets, the Chamberlains, the Mandevilles, and the 
Sauvages, all Normans byname and origin, were obliged to quit."f Subsequently 
the Anglo-Normans partially regained their possessions. The few Norman, fami- 
lies re-established in Ulster, after these events, were, as Thierry says, "either poor 
or had formed relations with the natives, and became more Irish than the Irish 
themselves." In 1386 Carrickfergus was burned by the Scots, and in 1400 was 
again destroyed by the combined forces of the Scots and Irish. It had many 

* Topographical Dictionary of Ireland : With Historical end Statistical Descriptions, tic. By Samuel Lewis. 2 vols. 
4to. London, 1837. Article Antnm. 

\ History of the Conquest of England by the N'oj-mans : Its Causes and Consequences in England, Scotland, Ireland 
etc. By Augustus Thierry. Translated by Wm. Hazlitt. 2 vols. London, 1S56. Vol. ii,, p. 322. 



ANTRIM. 



123 



vicissitudes by fire and famine and war, and the corporation in 1573 represented 
the town as being one-third in ruins. It was in this state when the Earl of Essex 
landed here on his disastrous expedition against Hugh O'Neill. His successor, 
Lord-Deputy Sidney, built a wall around it in 1576 : but its resources were so 
reduced by the incursions of the O'Neills and O'Donnells that the Deputy, Lord 
Grey, found it necessary in 1581 to issue an edict peremptorily forbidding the in- 
habitants from paying to the Lord of Clannaboy the tribute known as " Bryan 
Ballaughe's Eric." In 1641 the design of Sir Henry Mac Neill to capture the town 
was frustrated by the vigi- 
lant activity of Arthur Chi- ^^£ ^-_ - 
Chester, governor of the _^_ 
Castle — who bore a promi- 
nent part in the final subju- 
gation of Ulster, and was 
rewarded by large tracts 
and titles — built a great 
castle here and another at 
Belfast, of which town he 
is esteemed the virtual 
founder. In the war of 
this year the fortress was 
alternately in the hands of the Scotch, English, and Irish. In 1642 Munroe held 
it for the Scotch Presbyterians : in 1648 he was surprised, captured and sent to 
England by Monk, who occupied it for the Parliament. Next, Montgomery of the 
Ards held it for Charles I., and in 1649 it was taken by Sir Charles Coote in the 
name of Cromwell. In 1666 the garrison mutinied, and seized castle and town, 
but were compelled to a surrender by the Duke of Ormonde. The " Irish quar- 
ter " outside the walls recalls Ormonde's proclamation of 1677 forbidding Ro- 
man CathoHcs to dwell within fortified towns. In 1689, the castle was held by, 
Lord Iveagh for James II. ; but during the year, the garrison, having exhausted 
its ammunition, surrendered to Schomberg for William III., who landed here in 
1690 to take personal command of his army. The stone on which he first set his 
foot is still shown at the end of the pier. The quietude which followed this event 
for nearly three-quarters of a century was broken by Commodore Thurot, the 
descendant of ah exiled Jacobite officer named Farrell, who, in 1760, with three 
French frigates and eight hundred men, invested and captured the castle after 
a o-allant resistance. The next event of interest was also under naval auspices ; 




Olderfleet Castle. 



124 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

as well asunder the stars and stripes carried by Paul Jones. On his famous cruise 
in \k\^ Ranger in 1778, while near Carrickfergus on the 21st June, he learned that 
the British man-of-war Drake, twenty guns, was in the bay. Prevented by the 
weather from attacking her that night, he sought shelter on the Scottish coast. 
The next day he set fire to Whitehaven, on the 23d sacked the Earl of Sel- 
kirk's, on St, Mary's Isle, and on the 24th dashed back to pay his respects to the 
Drake, which, in answer to an express from Whitehaven, he found coming out. 
Jones hoisted the stars and stripes, and in response to "a hail " demanding who 
he was, replied, " The American Continental ship Ranger, that he waited for 

them, and desired them to come on." 
This he emphasized with a broadside. 
The action was warm, close and ob- 
stinate, and resulted in the capture 
of the Drake. 

The old Church of St. Nicholas — 
dating from the eleventh or twelfth 
century — is the other object of in- 
terest in Carrickfergus. It contains 
some fine monuments, but the Done- 
gal family is charged with culpable neglect of family monuments and hereditary 
associations in permitting the venerable edifice to crumble piecemeal into ruins. 

The route from Carrickfergus around the coast to Ballycastle affords a 
grand treat to lovers of the picturesque. The road, which was designed in 1834 
by Mr. Bald the engineer, and built at the joint expense of the government and 
the county, is a fine work cut through the hills of limestone, winding round the 
cliffs and passing for a great distance close to the sea. On the route to Larne 
it passes through the village of Eden to Kilroot, interesting to the literary world 
as containing the remains of the church in which Jonathan Swift, afterward the 
great Dean of St. Patrick, first officiated after taking orders. Not far distant, at 
Ballycarry, is another object of great interest to a special denomination connected 
with the history of Ulster — the ruins of the church of Templecoran, the first 
Presbyterian church erected (161 3) in Ireland. Leaving the coast road to 
Larne, a visit to the noted promontory called Island Magee will repay the 
tourist. On the eastern boundary are the stupendous basaltic cliffs, the Gobbins 
( from Gob, the mouth, and Ben, height, or headland), forming a perpendicular 
palisade over 200 feet in height. The Island Magee massacre is infamously 
famous in history. Without entering Into the discussion as to the numbers slain. 




IIu uobhiii LliJJs 



126 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the fact is sufficient that a united band of English and Scotch under Munroe^ 
the Covenanter governor of Carrickfergus, on the 8th .of January, 1642, "in re- 
venge for some outrage on the Protestants in a neighboring district," precipitated 
a large number of unoffending Roman Catholics over the Gobbin Cliffs. In 
these cliffs are seven caves, into which the tide flows. They are a little above 
low-water mark, under a basaltic rock 210 feet high, intersected by layers of 
ochreous basalt an inch thick, and of a bright vermilion color. The island is 
over seven miles in length,' and averages perhaps one and a half in width. At 
Brown's Bay is an ancient Logan stone, now displaced from its pivot, weighing 

twelve tons ; and on 
^^=j, ^- . the northern end at 

Ballyumpage are the 
remains of a crom- 
lech, or, as it is call- 
ed, "Druid's Altar," * 
near which several 
articles in pure gold 
have been found. 
Near the entrance to 
the peninsula, in a 
fine situation on a 
bold shore, are the 
remains of Castle Chichester, and there are also on the island the ruins of two 
ancient churches. A writer on the locality says that a curious account of this 
island is to be met, " in a private MS. in this county, which mentions that in 
the reign of Elizabeth it was a complete waste," without any wood, and that, 
evidently at the suggestion of Essex, "the Queen granted a lease of it to Savage." 
The ancient rent of the island was " two goshawks and a pair of gloves." 

Island Magee was noted as the theater of sorcery; in 171 1 eight females 
were tried on charges of witchcraft in Carrickfergus, and the memory of " Fairy 
Brown " is still a cause of "terror to the neighboring peasantry." We can pro- 
ceed by the ferry on the northwestern extremity to Larne by way of Olderfleet ; 
or reach the same place by resuming the coast road at Kilroot. 

Larne, nine and a half miles from Carrickfergus, is pleasantly situated under 

* Eugene O'Curry does not think the names synonymous. He is of the opinion that cromlechs were neither intended 
for, nor used as altars or places of sacrifice — that they were in no sense Druidical, but in every sense sepulchral. See 
MS. Matetials of Ancient Irish Hist. Appendix xcv. 




The Maidens. 



ANTRIM. 



127 



a steep hill in a fertile and sheltered glen at the head of Lough Larne, the name 
given to the inlet of the sea lying between Island Magee and the mainland of 
Antrim. The approach discloses some bold and picturesque scenery, the bright 
blue sea surrounding the island, and in almost immediate foreground the bleach 
greens and quarries. The entrance to the Lough — a deep channel — may be ob- 
served to lie between the long narrow strip of land, which from its resemblance to 
a reaping-hook is called the Curraan, or Carran, and Island Magee. Near the ex- 
tremity of the Carran are the ruins of Olderfleet Castle, erected to keep watch on 
the Scottish invaders. It was only abandoned as a military station when the crowns 

of England and Scotland were united on the ^ 

brow of James the First. Six miles from _^ 

the mainland are the Maidens — two lofty 
light-houses erected on rocky islets. The 
lanterns are respectively eighty-four and 
ninety feet above high water. 

From Larne the road leads along the 
coast, and four miles distant is tunneled 
through Ballygally Head, a bold promon- 
tory faced with enormous basaltic pillars, 
many joints of which are not less than 
eight feet in length. We next approach 
the village of Glenarm, and we may pause 
as well to admire the beauty of the situa- 
tion as the means by which we reach it. 
The coast road in this section leading into 
and from Glenarm has commanded enthusiastic approval. In its construction, 
according to the commissioners' report, two peculiar difficulties presented them- 
selves — one the necessity of constructing the road under a considerable extent of 
rocks some hundreds of feet in height, and with its base washed by the open sea: 
and the other its passage along portions of very steep hills of moving clay banks. 
" About 30,000 cubic yards of rock have been hurled down on the shore, and the 
road, ten feet above the highest tides, has been floored, partly upon the loose, and 
partly upon the solid rock." If the engineer "had worked with a poet and painter 
at his back, he could not have laid out its course more agreeably to the eye 
and to the imagination. It is constructed with equal skill, taste and enterprise; 
cliffs cut through, chasms crossed, watercourses walled and bridged — a roughly- 
ribbed and jagged coast, in short, traversed by a road as smooth and almost as 




Barbican of Anil 1 



128 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



level as a tennis court. We have been surprised at the excellence of the roads 
all over Ireland, but by none so agreeably as this." * 

The view from the summit of any of the hills surrounding Glenarm is sur- 
passingly beautiful. Looking toward the sea, the Mull of Cantyre, the Scottish 
mainland stretches in the distance, upon which, even in moderately clear weather 
— says Wakeman — not only the fields but even the neatly white-washed houses 
are distinctly visible. The village is nestled in a romantic glen, surrounded by 
woods and watered by a troutful stream. Its chief architectural feature is the 
castle, which represents a still older structure of which some remains are still 

extant, and which was 

___^ ;r^^ for many years the 

- ^-^^^= ""^ ^^ seat of the MacDon- 

nells, Earls of An- 
trim. The castle is 
quadrangular, flank- 
ed at the angles with 
four beautifully pro- 
portioned towers 
supporting minarets, 
topped by vanes. 
The entrance is 
through a noble bar- 
b i c a n , approached 
from without by a 
bridge. " Four hundred deer and stags graze around it, and six hundred old an- 
cestral trees overshadow its ground : and all this smiling and peaceful beauty, shel- 
tered between the wild black rocks which form the little glen, with a view opening 
on old ocean rolling his stormy white-crested waves beyond, forms perhaps the 
most wonderful site in all the world for a stately baronial mansion." 

The distant hill rising above the opening of the valley is the celebrated Sleive 
Mish, where St. Patrick as a boy captive is said to have tended the swine of 
Milcho. A fine bay six miles in extent reaches from the headlands of Glenarm 
on the south to the bold promontory of Garron Point on the north. Between 
those points on land the road crosses the vale of Carnlough, in the center of 
which is the hamlet of the same name. Garron Point is a conspicuous promon- 
tory consisting of three pinnacles united by precipices of basalt. The highest 




Bmf're and LastU at GUiuinn 



* Bartlett's Ireland. Letter-press by N. P. Willis, J. Sterling Coyne, etc. 



ANTRIM. 



129 



summit is of easy access, along a gently rising verdant bank. Near it, on the 
acclivities of Nachore hill, 1,179 f^^t above the sea, which rises over the Point, 
and occupying an elevated site is Garron Tower, a modern castellated 
;.^ structure of fine appearance, built by the dowager Marchioness of 

Londonderry, whose boundless wealth, it is gratefully recorded, was 
' employed liberally in the improvement of her es- 

tate in this part of Antrim. She had a railway 
constructed at her own expense from the lime- 
stone quarries to the sea, at the village of Corn- 
lough, which quickly 
underwent a complete 
transformation under 




-^m^'' 




the magic power of her gold- 
en wand She presided per- Cnujon Toum 
sonally over the entertain- 
ments given to her tenants, and delivered able 
lectures to them on the management of their farms. 

From this and the neighboring heights extensive views of the 
scenery between Glenarm and Cushendon, as well as of the Scottish ' '■■""'^■S-r 
coast, are obtained. From the shore line also at Garron Point, the 
views, north and south, are truly characterized as magnificent. The road here is 
cut through the cliff of the promontory, and presents a rather notable appear- 
ance. Farther on are the limestone rocks called Clough-i-stookan (from clotigk, 
stone, and stook, a pinnacle), which have been isolated from the mainland, not by 
9 



I30 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Road through Cliff at Gar ran Point. 



the engineer, but by the labor of time and the tides. Rounding Garron Point we 
enter Red Bay, so called from the soft red sandstone of its rocky boundary. And 

just here, perhaps, it is as well that we 
should pause and hear, in a condensed 
form, what the scientists have to say on 
the interesting and important geologi- 
cal and mineralogical features of this 
county. Excepting a diversified district 
on the east coast, and the valley of the 
Lagan, nearly the whole County of An- 
trim is occupied by basaltic beds, present- 
ing magnificent abrupt declivities on the 
north and east. These secondary beds 
consist of enormous unstratified masses 
of an average depth of 300 feet, though 
at Knock-Layd it is 980 feet, the base 
of which is of mica slate. The beds of 
columnar basalt occur almost exclusively 
on the northern extremity. Besides the columnar strata, known as the Giant's 
Causeway, and the adjacent cliffs, similar strata are seen in other parts, particu- 
larly near the town of Antrim and Kilroot. Slievemish or Slemish Mountain is 
an enormous mass of greenstone, which also occurs in other localities. Porphyry 
occupies a considerable district south of Connor and Kells, and is met in other 
places, especially near Cushen- 
dall. The substance called 
wood-coal occurs in thin strata 
at Portnoffer, Kiltymorris, Bal 
lintoy, and elsewhere. 

All the other rocks of An 
trim are beneath the basaltic 
beds in geological position. The 
first is hard chalk, sometimes 
called white limestone, which 
averages 200 feet in thickness 
and occurs on the eastern and "~"~" 

southern sides of the county 
and on the southern coast of Rathlin Island 




Clo ugh - i- Stooka n . 

Green sandstone next occurs in 



ANTRIM. 



131 



the neighborhood of Belfast, to the north of Carrickfergus, near Larne, at Garron 
Point, etc. ; and under this are found Has beds on the coast between Garron 
Point and Larne. These, together with the chalk and basalt, are based upon 
beds of reddish and reddish-brown sandstone of various textures, which are found 
under the entire southeastern border, in several spots along the eastern coast, 
and in considerable tracts from Red Bay to Ballycastle : the upper strata form a 
marl, in which are veins of gypsum. The coal district of Ballycastle comprises 
about two miles along the coast ; the beds crop out above the level of the sea, 
dipping to the _ 

south east about 
one foot in nine, ^ ^ 

and alternate with sm- 

others of sandstone 
and slate clay, being 
themselves of a ' 
slaty quality. The 
only rocks lying un- 
der the strata of the 
great coal district, 
besides the primi- 
tive rocks of mica- 
slate, etc., men- 
tioned, are those of 

" old red sandstone," between the bays of Cushendall and Cushendun. All of 
the above-mentioned strata are occasionally intersected and dislocated by remark- 
able dykes of basalt or whinstone, varying from three inches to sixteen feet in 
width. Sometimes very minute dykes or veins of greenstone penetrate these 
enormous beds of basalt, and are particularly noticeable near Portrush, where they 
are seen in the face of the cliff hot more than an inch broad. Chert is also found 
in abundance and variety at Portrush. Fuller's earth exists in the basaltic dis- 
trict, in which also a rough tripoli is found at Agnew's Hill, near Larne, and a 
vein of steatite or French chalk in the path to the Gobbins. 

Red Bay is the most beautiful of the bays on the Antrim coast. Opening 
inland from the bay is Glenariff. From Red Bay to Cushendun, a distance of 
six miles, there are four vales or glens — Glenariff, Glendall, Glenaan, and Glen- 
dun, named after their respective streams, the Ariff, the Dall, the Aan, and the 
Dun. Of these elens the first named is esteemed the most beautiful. It is 




Tunnel at Red Bay. 



132 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




bounded on the one side by the cHffs of Carnlea, 1,179 f^^t high, and on the 
opposite by Lurgethan, a huge truncated cone of equal altitude. Leaping be- 
tween boldly escarped Avails the Ariff River forms a waterfall and flows into the 
sea at the little hamlet of Waterfoot. Beyond the latter are the noted caves of 
Red Bay, excavations in the soft red sandstone, formed perhaps by the unceas- 
ing inroads of the 
' -'I IT^^F waves in days 

past, now exclud- 
ed by the embank- 
ment. Red Bay 
Castle, the ruins 
of which tower 
above a lofty 
arch cut through 

JIin-/oii£;h Bay. , , 

the southern end 
of one of the projecting red cliffs, was, in 1598, the residence of Randall Mac 
Donnell, then lord of the county, but was originally built by the Bissetts. The 
shore view from Red Bay is something very remarkable. On the left, a range of 
deeply-furrowed escarpments, with torn and irregular abutments, extends for 
miles along the coast. In this the courses and furrows of numerous waterfalls — 
torrents precipitated over mural crowns more than one thousand feet high, have 
a striking and splendid effect. Many of these waterfalls are permanent — some 
abundant in the rains of spring and summer, and all foaming and flashing in 
winter. 

The glens alluded to arrest our attention as we proceed. Next to Glenariff 
is Glendall, lying between Lurgethan and Trostan, the latter being 1,810 feet high 
and the highest of the hill chain here. The road through this orlen leads from 
Cushendall to Ballymena. Glenaan, a narrow valley, lies between the mountains 
of Sleevebulliagh, 1,346 feet high, and Eshery, the moorland crown of which is 
1,197 feet over the sea. Glendun is bounded on the west by the mountains 
of Glenmakeeran, 1,321 feet high, and across the lower end the new road from 
Cushendun to Ballycastle is carried over a fine stone bridge, the central arch of 
which is eighty feet above the river Dun. 

The village of Cushendall affords the tourist a resting-place and a point from 
which he can devote at least a couple of days to profitable expeditions among the 
cliffs, shores, mountains and glens of the vicinity, especially as he must soon 
leave the coast ; as, from Cushendall to Fairhead, with the exception of the little 



ANTRIM. 



133 












•>■ 



bays of Cushendun ami 
Murlough, the mountain 
descend so sheer to the si„a 
as to leave no opportunity 
for a road ; which has to take 
a turn inland, and be earned 
over the mountains at a con- 
siderable elevation to Bally- 
castle, and at a distance of 
some two miles and a half 
from the shore. 

The coast road, however, from Larne to this point, is one which presents 



N 1 \ 



'% 



Fair he ad. 






jch 



134 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



scenery to the eye as cannot readily be obliterated from the memory. It embraces 
the most interesting coast-drive in the kingdom. Skirting the shore the entire 
way, a rare opportunity is afforded of viewing its great distinguishing features to 
the best advantage. The outlines of the shore assume the most pleasing forms, 
and produce effects which are peculiarly agreeable from their striking contrasts 
and harmonious variety. Here, the road penetrates the high, jutting, rocky pro- 
montory; there it sweeps around the smooth, lovely, circular bay. Unlike many 
of our estuaries, says Fraser, the ebbing tides disclose no silty, no noxious resi- 
duum, but leave the smooth strand and pebbly beach in lieu of the dark blue 

waters. The outlines, forms, colors, and char- 
acters of the cliffs, so totally different in all 
these respects from those of the other shores of 
Ireland, never fail to arrest the attention, while 
the ever-varying and new alternations of rocky 
precipice, grassy bank, sequestered knoll, and 
cultivated lea invariably excite the most pleasing 
emotions. 

Within a mile of Cushendall are the ruins of 
the old Church of Layd, where, according to 
tradition, is buried Ossian, the famous poet, 
son of Fioun, the disciplinarian of the ancient 
Fenian hosts, and himself a leader of this na- 
tional militia. 

Three miles • northward is the pleasantly 
situated fishing hamlet of Cushendun, and six 
miles farther Tor Head, only distant twelve 
miles from the Mull of Cantyre, which makes it 
the nearest point to Scotland. " In some old maps of Elizabeth's time. Tor is 
called ' the Scots' warning fire,' from the Scots who had settled in these parts 
making fires on it to bring over their friends to their assistance, when about to 
be assailed by the English or Irish." 

The sturdy tourist will keep to the cliff path, and take in the beauty of Mur- 
lough Bay, from which to its northwestern point of Benmore, or Fair Head, the 
coast is not only very fine, but of deep interest to the geologist. Vast fragments 
of rocks lie scattered along the shore, amongst which enormous masses of colum- 
nar greenstone prevail. 

Fair Head, the Robogdium Promontormm of Ptolemy the Geographer, is a bold 




Entrance io Grey Mans Path. 



ANTRIM. 135 

and beautiful headland, one of the most striking on the whole coast of Ireland. 
According to the Ordnance Survey its height is 639 feet, of which the face of 
the cliff shows 319 feet of a perpendicular escarpment. It is formed of colossal 
basaltic pillars, some of which exceed two hundred feet in length, and are from 
five to twenty in diameter. One of these, by Dr. Playfair's measurement, is a 
quadrangular prism, thirty-three feet by thirty-six on the sides, and of the gigan- 
tic altitude mentioned. It is said to be the largest basaltic pillar yet discovered 
on the face of the globe, "exceeding in diameter the pedestal that supports the 
statue of Peter the Great at St. Petersburg, and considerably surpassing in length 
the shaft of Pompey's pillar at Alexandria." At the foot of this magnificent col- 
onnade is seen an immense mass of rocks similarly formed, accumulation of 
debris, and huge fragments of the enormous pillars which have fallen from their 
place, and lie piled in masses and groups, resembling many of the varieties of 
artificial ruins, and forming a novel effect : the deep waters of the sea rolling at 
their base with a full and heavy swell. The whole headland is widely different 
from the small, compact, close-grained basalt of the neighborhood, being a highly 
crystalline greenstone, and supposed to belong to a different epoch, notwith- 
standing its close proximity to the great basaltic mass. " It presents to the 
spectator," says Dr. Drummond, "the most stupendous colonnade ever erected 
by nature, and in comparison of which the proudest monuments of human archi- 
tecture are but the efforts of pigmy imbecility to the omnipotence of God." 
" The scene of ruin," says another writer, "at the base of these Titanian pillars, 
is probably not exceeded in Europe." Hall says it is " grand in the extreme — 
sublime beyond conception/' and, appalled at its extent and magnificence, adds, 
" it is utterly impossible for any description to afford an idea of its surpassing 
grandeur — to portray which the pencil of the artist is equally incapable." Bay- 
ard Taylor, in his Views a-Foot, records a metaphor which is both suggestive and 
descriptive : " My companion," he says, " compared it to Niagara Falls petrified, 
and I think the simile very striking. It is like a cataract falling in huge waves, 
in some places leaping out from a projecting rock, in others descending in an un- 
broken sheet." Whether considered in a scenic or scientific point of view, Fair 
Head is the highest, boldest, and most interesting promontory on the whole grand 
line of the Antrim coast ; and it will be freely admitted, that no one who has de- 
scended this promontory by the "Grey Man's Path," can forget its wonderful 
basaltic precipices, and the natural ruins at its base. In walking along the top 
of the cliff, several of the vast pillars may be seen to be partially loosened from 
the mainland, and to lean out fearfully over the gulf below. The Fhir Leith, or 



136 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Grey-Man's Path, is a fissure in the precipice, through which a path winds down to 
the shore. A part of a huge pillar has fallen across the narrowest part near the 
top, and looks threatening enough to forbid risking oneself in the path beneath. 
But in the midst of these wild scenes one gets accustomed to danger. The pas- 
sage widens in the descent, and the walls assume a vast and sombre significance, 
rising, as they do, some two hundred and twenty feet. 

The views from off this promontory of a fine day are truly beautiful. Scotland 

approaches within 
seventeen miles, 
and i t s rocky 
shores and moun- 
tains, and even 
i t s habitations, 
with the aid of 
a moderate glass, 
are quite distinct- 
5^ ly seen. Far off 
- to the north the 
Paps of Jura and 
the Crag of Ailsa 
appear faintly against the cloudless horizon, as if some viewless hand had traced 

" An airy palace on the sky ;" 

and nearer, to the east, the mountains of Ayrshire and the crags of Arran seem 
softened by distance into an almost ethereal tinge of blue ; while westward, the 
sharp bluffs of the receding headlands of the Causeway jut out one by one, until 
they conduct the eye across to the point of Innishowen Head and the moun- 
tains of Donegal, still more faintly blue than the Scottish mountains to the east. 
In descending from Fair Head towards Ballycastle we pass two small lakes — 
Caolin and Crossa — near the edge of the precipice, and nearly five hundred feet 
above the sea. The celebrated Whin-dyke of Carrig Maur opens a passage for 
the waters which precipitate themselves over the cliff, forming a scanty but at 
times pretty waterfall dripping fantastically from the brow of the dingy rocks 
into the ocean.* Not far from the promontory is a little settlement, with the 
remains of a factory, which is known as the Salt-Pans, a view of which adds to 




Ilu Salt Pans 



*See Tours in Ulster : a Handbook to the Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Ireland. By J. B. Doyle. With 
numerous illustrations. Dublin, 1854, 



ANTRIM. 



137 




like summit is 1,635 
feet above the sea. 
Ballycastle is the 
principal town to 
be met with after 
Larne. It is compa- 
ratively new, that is, 
scarcely a century 



The Grey-Man's Palh. 



138 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



and a quarter old, and owes its advantages to the energy and foresight of one 
man, Hugh Boyd, who without considerable fortune, or great natural connec- 
tions, or superior talents, opened public roads, formed .. harbor, built a town, 
established manufactures, and lived to see a wild country cultivated and active 
with industry. He also, at his own expense, built a church, whose walls received 
his body on the day of its consecration in 1756. After the demise of Boyd mis- 
fortune seems to have fallen on his life-project. In 1770 the Irish Parliament 
aided improvements to encourage the coal works ; but the sand filled the harbor, 
and the mining operations failed. Since 1873 the latter have been resumed with 

some prospect 
of success. The 
collieries which 
are situated in 
an abrupt bank 
over-hanging 
the sea between 
Fair Head prom- 
ontory and the 
town, are sup- 
posed, says Mar- 
mion, to have 
been worked 

even as early as the time the Phoenicians traded with this country. Ham- 
ilton, writing in 1 784, records the fact that some twelve years previous, the 
workmen, in pushing forward a new adit, unexpectedly broke through the rock 
into a cavern. The hole was not very large, and two lads with candles were 
made to creep in to explore this new region. Going forward they entered an 
extensive labyrinth branching off into numerous apartments, in the mazes of 
which they were completely lost and their lights extinguished. Opening a pas- 
sage, the workmen in the drift extricated the lads after a night's imprisonment. 
" On examining this subterranean wonder, it was found to be a complete gallery 
which had been driven forward many hundred yards to the bed of coal ; — that it 
branched off into various chambers, where the miners had pushed on their differ- 
ent works; — that pillars were left, at proper intervals, to support the roof; — in 
short, it was found to be an extensive mine, wrought by a set of people at least as 
expert in the business as the present generation. Some remains of the tools, and 
even the baskets used in the works, were discovered, but in such a state that on 




Keiibanc — looking over Ballycastle Bay to Fairhead. 



ANTRIM. 



139 



Tjeing touched they immediately fell to powder. The antiquity of this work is 
pretty evident from hence, that there does not remain the most remote tradi- 
tion of it in the country ; but it is still more strongly demonstrable from a 
natural process which has taken place since its formation, for stalactite pillars 

liad been generated, reaching from the ^^ ■ — ^-- ___^ -^^ 

roof of the pit to the floor ; and the sides 
and supports were found covered with 
sparry incrustations, which the present 
Avorkmen do not observe to be deposited 
in any definite portion of time." * Dr. 
Wm. H. Drummond, in a note to his poem 
" The Giant's Causeway," throws a doubt 
on Hamilton's theory regarding the an- 
cient working of these mines, by stating 
that they had been wrought " about 
eighty years j^rior to the discovery of 
the chambers alluded to." This doubt, 
however, is removed by a circumstance 
which seems to carry conclusion with it 
in the minds of several writers ; it is this : 
that Bruce's Castle on Rathlin Island, over seven miles distant, was built with 
lime burned with sea coal, the cinders of which are visible in the mortar and bear 
a strong resemblance to those of Ballycastle coal. The suspicion that the coal 
might have been brought from England, is untenable for several reasons : first, 
at the time the castle was built, the English had but just discovered the use of 
sea coal as fuel ; second, the English collieries were not then generally worked ; 
third, we find that in the time of Edward I., sea coal having been tried in Lon- 
don, its use was prohibited on the ground that the vapor was noxious to the 
public health ; and fourth, if the English did export coal it would be to some 
place of commercial character ; and the British charts of the period do not lay 
down a single village in all this line of coast.f 

South of Ballycastle, , at the eastern base of Knocklayd, is the Vale of 
Glenshesk, the road through which leads to Armoy, where are the remains 
of an ancient tower. The coast cliffs are crowned by castle ruins. Doonany is 




Carrick-a-Rede and Sheep Island. 



" Letters concerning the Northern Coast of the Countiy of Antiiin, containing a Natural History of its Basalles, etc. 
Ey the Reverend William Hamilton, A.M., Fellow of Trin. Coll. Dub. ,1786. Pp. 33-35. 
f Hamilton, p. 27. 



140 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Kcnbanc Ca:,tk,f) out Southeast— Raihlin in the distance. 

close by; Duncurry, on a cliff 300 feet high, within a mile and a half; and 
three miles westward McAllister's Castle on Kenbane {Keji-ban), the white head, 



ANTRIM. 



141 







Cat lick a-Redt at flu Rope 
Bt idze 



'I 

a pictures- 
que rock of 
white limestone 
in the midst 
of the basalt. 
It is connected 
with the main- 
land by a nar- 
row ledge, and 
the chalk is worn by the waves into 
several fantastically shaped caves. The 
most remarkable cave in the vicinity is a 
sort of mmiature of Fingal's at Staffa, 
called Grace Staples' Cave, the columnar 
pillars of which are regularly placed, 
as if art and not nature had arranged 
their position. Between this and Carrick-a-Rede there is a remarkable fissure 
in the rock, called the Bulye, made, according to tradition, by a stroke of the 
mighty sabre of Cuchullin, one of the Ossianic heroes. 



142 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Carrick-a-Rede, so called from being a " rock in the road," which intercepts 
the course of the salmon along the coast — is another highly striking promon- 
tory or islet on this romantic shore, which derives additional interest from being 
connected with the mainland by a flying rope-bridge flung across an appalling 
chasm. The island is over three hundred feet high, and contains about two and 
a half acres ; and the frightful bridge, made for the accommodation of fisher- 
men in summer-time, is constructed in a 
simple manner. Two strong cables are 
extended across the gulf by an expert 
climber and fastened firmly into iron 
rings mortised into the rock. Between 
and upon these ropes boards a foot In 
breadth are laid crosswise in succes- 
sion, on which other boards are fastened 
lengthways by cross-cords, and thus the 
aerial pathway is formed, which, though 
broad enough to bear a man's foot with 
tolerable convenience, does not by any 
means hide from view the pointed rocks 
and raging sea beneath. This light 
and airy contrivance, swaying and un- 
dulating in a space sixty feet wide, and 
over a chasm ninety feet deep, presents 
an appearance of danger which unde- 
niably affects even persons of strong nerve. The greatest caution is necessary in 
using the hand-rope placed on one side as a guide. The slighest inadvertence in 
placing too much weight on it would precipitate the passenger headlong into the 
sea, or Avhat is worse, on to the rocks. It is, as Hamilton suggests, a beautiful 
bridge in scenery, but a frightful one in real life. The people in the habit of 
using it, however, pass and repass with apparent ease ; and even the fishers' 
wives and sons carry burdens across with evident contempt of danger. Still, 
from a boat in the water, and gazing upward, it is painful to see people 
crossing the bridge, and distressing to anticipate the imminent danger to which 
they are incessantly exposed in their struggle for existence. 

It may be asked, says a writer, why the fishermen do not spare them- 
selves the trouble of throwing across this very dangerous bridge, and ap- 
proach the island by water ? and the answer Is given that It Is perfectly 




Carrick-a Rede — Base of the Chasm. 



ANTRIM. 143 

impracticable, owing to the extreme perpendicularity of the basaltic cliffs on 
every side, except in one small bay, which is only accessible at particular 
periods. The residents in the little cottage on the island comprise the clerk 
and the fishermen, who remain only during the summer months. "This sal- 
mon fishery, and indeed all those along the northern coast, are very produc- 
tive. The fishermen are paid, and all the expenses of fishing defrayed, by 
proportionate allowances of salmon." There is a beautiful and remarkable 
cave of unsupported basaltic columns, thirty feet high — the bases of which 
have been washed away or otherwise removed — in the cliffs near the island. 
The shores around Carrick-a-Rede are exceedingly picturesque, and the surface 
which alternates with the high cliffs and rocks very beautiful, romantic, and fer- 
tile. One of the finest views afforded on the whole coast of Antrim is obtained 
from a little eminence above the path leading from the old Ballycastle road 
down to "the Rock in the Road." 

Proceeding west through the hamlet of Ballintoy, and by the bay of the 
same name, we reach, at a distance of some four miles, the remarkable rock and 
ruins of Dunseverick. The rock is isolated, of perpendicular form, one hundred 
and twenty feet in height, and about half an acre in area on the top. The Cas- 
tle is a solitary remnant of a ruin like that at Kenbane and other cliff castles on 
this coast, and the whole presents a strikingly romantic and suggestive aspect. 
" Immense masses of the rock have been hewn away, evidently for the purpose 
of rendering the castle as inaccessible as possible. An enormous basaltic rock, 
south of the entrance, also appears to have been cut in a pyramidal form, and 
flattened on the top, perhaps as a station for a warder, or for the use of some en- 
gine of defense." The locality is invested with peculiar interest to the historical 
student from the fact that it perpetuates the name of Sovarkie, one of the earliest 
Milesian kings of Ireland, who with his brother Kermna, jointly ruled the king- 
dom nearly twelve hundred years before the Christian era. They were the first 
Ulster kings of Ireland ; and the portion north of a line from Drogheda to Lim- 
erick was governed by Sovarkie, who built a fortress-palace named Dun Sovar- 
kie. The neighborhood naturally took the name of the fort, as Fort Washing- 
ton and Fort Hamilton give names to places in the neighborhood of New York ; 
but it is doubtful if the area of the rock, as seen at present, would have accom- 
modated the dimensions of Dun Sovarkie. A portion of the fortress — a look-out 
— may have been on the rock, as it seems to be agreed by antiquarians "that a 
fortress existed here long before the introduction of Christianity." It was a 
chosen place for a stronghold, and the ruin, represented in the illustration, the 



144 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



walls of which were eleven feet thick, is the remnant of one of the McQuillans' 

castles — subsequently occupied by the O'Cahans — and dates to the twelfth century. 

The tourist now has his choice of two routes to the Causeway — one by a 




Bengore Head — The PleasLm, from i/u IVcst 

Avalk along the headlands, the other by the road to Bushmills, and thence to the 
Causeway, The author of Totirs in Ulster is justified in his selection of the 
former, as being one of the most varied, most singular, and interesting walks to 
be found in any country. Every step is replete with novelty. The thousand 
little objects, that can scarcely be named — grotesque fragments of rocks, little 
tiny amphitheaters scooped out of the cliffs — these, combined with the striking and 
majestic features of the more celebrated points of view, keep the mind in a state 
of pleasing excitement, and produce impressions, such, perhaps, as no other class 
of scenery would impart. The same writer recommends the tourist to suitably 
prepare himself for this walk b}' procuring No. 3 of the Ordnance Map of An- 
trim for handy and frequent reference,"" to which we would add that his owm 
book will be a useful pocket companion to the map. After Dunseverick we 

* Tours in Ulster, etc. By J. B. Doyle. Illustrated, 1S54. 



ANTRIM. 



145 




DiDiseverick Castle. 

meet the rock of sorcery, Ben an Danaan, and next a fine cascade, where the 
stream from Feagh Hill plunges over the cliffs into Port Moon. 



146 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The leading features of this coast, as Hamilton remarks, are the two great 
promontories of Bengore and Fair Head, which are eight miles distant from each 
other : both formed on a great and extensive scale, both abrupt toward the sea, 
abundantly exposed to observation, and each in its kind exhibiting noble ar- 
rangements of the different species of columnar basalts. Fair Head has already 
been described. Bengore is'about seven miles from Ballycastle. In reaching it 
from Dunseverick we pass some nine " ports," each from an eighth to a quarter of 
a mile in extent, with its particular name, and some with striking rocks — such 
as the Hen and her Chickens, the Stack, the Four Sisters, which the guides will 
_,^„^^ ^ point out. Bengore, viewed at a dis- 

tance on sea, presents a headland pro- 
file running out a considerable dis- 
tance from the coast into the ocean. 
Strictly speaking, however, it is made 
up of several capes, the tout ensemble 
of which forms what the seamen call 
the Headland of Bengore. These 
capes are composed of a variety of dif- 
^ ferent ranges of pillars, and a great 
- number of strata ; which, from the ab- 
!l ruptness of the coast, are extremely 
~ conspicuous, and form an unrivaled 
pile of natural architecture, in which 
all the neat regularity and elegance of 
art is united to the wild magnificence of nature. 

In every ocean view from Fair Head to Bengore, and indeed from points south- 
east of the former and far west of the latter, the Island of Rathlin (also called 
Ragherry, Rachlin, Rachrin) is a prominent object, varying, of course, in size and 
position, from the point of view. Its nearest points to the mainland are about 
three miles from Fair Head, and five and a half from Ballycastle. Its form is a 
rude resemblance to a low-legged boot, the toe of which points to Ballycastle col- 
lieries, the top. Bull Point, to the Atlantic Ocean, and the heel, where Bruce's 
Castle is situated, to the Scottish coast of Cantyre, which is nearly fifteen miles 
distant. From the top to the heel is five miles, and from the heel to the toe four. 
Its breadth varies from half a mile to a mile and a quarter. On the inside of the 
bend is Church Bay. The highest point on the northwestern part — North Kenra- 
mer — is 447 feet above the sea level ; and the cliffs all around the northern shores. 




Bt iCLL i Lastle. 



ANTRIM. 



147 



from Bruce's Castle to the recess of Church Bay, veryprecipitous, averaging 300 
feet. This small island, surrounded as it is by a wild and turbulent sea, fortified 
by barriers of inhospitable rock, and containing little or nothing in itself to pro- 
voke the rage of either avarice or ambition, might, suggests Dr. Drummond, 
be supposed to have escaped the desolating scourge of war. But if its almost 
inaccessible retirement recommended it as a home for peace and religion, the 
latter also awakened piratical cupidity ; while its commanding position and natu- 
ral defenses suggested its use both as a warlike rendezvous, and as a refuge for 
the heroic unfortunate. Hence history records many pages of blood and rapine 
on the little thea- 
ter of this island. 
It has felt the fury 
and rapacity o f 
Danish, Engl ish 
and H e b r i d i a n 
arms. The mon- 
astery established 
b)^ St. Columba, 
with all its shrines 
was ravaged and 
destroyed in 790 , 
and again in 973 

by the Danes, who, on their second descent, killed the abbot. The memory of a 
dreadful massacre by the Highland Scotch Campbells is still preserved ; and a 
place called Sloe na Calleach ("slaughter of the old women ") perpetuates a tra- 
dition of the destruction of all the aged women of the island, by precipitation 
over the rocks. The barbarian author of the atrocity was named MacNalreavy. 
Hamilton remarks that in his time the memory of this deed was so strongly im- 
pressed on the inhabitants that no person of the name of Campbell was allowed 
to settle on the island. After the disgraceful execution of William Wallace, by 
Edward I., and the disruption of Scottish claims and rights, Robert Bruce found 
a refuge here when forced to leave his native country. He was pursued, how- 
ever, and the remains of the fortress, on the northern angle of the island, cele- 
brated for the defense which the hero made in it, is still known as Bruce's Castle. 
The antiquity of this building is nearly six centuries; indeed, "it maybe consider- 
ably older, as the time which Bruce spent in Rathlin was scarce sufficient for 
the purpose of erecting it." Here it was that the Bruce received the lesson in 




Doon Point. 



148 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




The Giant's Granny. 



perseverance from watching the labors of a spider, which, after several failures, suc- 
ceeded in securely fastening its web to a beam, that led him to the glorious field of 

Bannockburn. Since then it 
,_»7.T, has been held unlucky and 

ungrateful, says Scott, for 
one of the name of Bruce to 
kill a spider. The English 
invaded Rathlin unsuccess- 
fully in 1 551; but seven 
years later the Lord-Dep- 
uty Sussex drove out the 
Scots with great carnage. 

Rathlin — the Ricina of 
Ptolemy — has long been 
an object of study as well 
as of curiosity, on account of the similarity of its shores to those on the coast of 
Antrim, from which, it is supposed, it has been severed by some awful convulsion. 
Geologists agree that the structure of the island and the adjacent mainland are 
identical, and Hamilton was of opinion that 
this island, standing between the coasts of 
Antrim and Scotland, may be the surviving 
fragment of a large tract of country, which at 
some period of time has been buried in the _ 
deep, and may have formerly united Staffa -^^ 
and the Giant's Causeway. The island is "fi= 
principally occupied by those basaltic beds ^fe:- 
which are classified by Dr. Berger under the ~ 

heads : tabular basalt, columnar basalt, green- 
stone, graystone, porphyrj', bole or red ochre, wacke, amygdaloidal wacke, and 
wood-coal ; and imbedded in them are granular olivine augite, calcareous spar, 
steatite, zeolite, iron pyrites, glassy feldspar, and chalcedony. Doon Point, on 
the eastern coast, is regarded as a beautiful and remarkably curious development 
of the process of basaltic formations, presenting, as it does, a combination of per- 
pendicular, horizontal and bending pillars. It is thought "more worthy of obser- 
vation than the Causeway, and better calculated to explain the phenomenon of 
the basaltic crystallizations." Its base resembles a mole composed of erect columns 
like those of the Giant's Causeway; over the extremity of this mass, others appear 



>% 



' r- 




The Lion's Head. 






.. r 



Hill-' ':'i*l't'l-' 

'*' iilflf t* tlfitH I 













m^4 



-£fi»- 
















PLEASKIN— GIANT S CAUSEWAY. 



ISO PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

in a bending form, as if they had slid over in a state of softness, capable of accom- 
modating themselves to the course of their descent, and thus assuming the figure 
of various curves in consequence of the action of gravity ; over all, several pillars 
are disposed in a horizontal position, such as would accord with an hypothesis 
of their having just reached the brink of the ascent, where they were suddenly ar- 
rested and became rigid, lying along with their extremities pointing out toward the 
sea.* The channel between the main and the island is very turbulent, the eastern 
opening being insufficient for the press of waters from the Atlantic, which conse- 
quently returns in a counter-current tide westward for thirty miles, while the true 
tide is running east. The channel is called the Valley of the Sea {Sleuck na 
Massa), and also Brecan's Caldron, or hollow {Corrie-Brecaiii), in consequence of 
the loss here of Brecain — son of Nial of the Nine Hostages — and his fleet of fifty 
Curraghs. Nothing can be grander than the Atlantic rolling with the tide, but 
no sooner does the ebb oppose itself to this mighty mass of waters, than the wild- 
est confusion occurs, the waves foaming and tossing in a fearful manner. The 
rushing of the waters from the Scottish and Irish shores at each other is vividly 
described in Cormac's Glossary. They are sucked down as if into a gaping cal- 
dron. " The waters are again thrown up, so that their belching, roaring, and 
thundering are heard amidst the clouds, and they boil like to a caldron upon a 
fire." In the Lord of the Isles, founded on adventures of Bruce after he left 
Rathlin, Scott alludes to the " roar " of " Corryvreken's whirlpool rude." 

Returning to Bengore, from which we were attracted by Rathlin, we resume 
our observations on the coast line. Bengore proper presents a broad convexity 
to the sea, forming a striking contrast to the semicircular bays and pointed capes, 
the most perfect of which is called the Pleaskin {Pleasg-ke7i, the dry head). 
Near the former is the remarkable natural pillar which, thanks to the guides 
and custom, is called " The Giant's Granny." Passing westward by Port na 
Trughen — Lamentation harbor, so called from the woful moans, as of human 
voices, issuing from the caves — we meet the "Giant's Pulpit," hanging over the 
sea, the perpendicular rock called the " Giant's Ball Alley," the " Twins " off the 
fine headland called Ben-bane na Parage (the white cliff of the sea), and the red 
sandstone group called the " Lion's Head " a little east of Horse-shoe Harbor, 
and finally Port na Pleaskin, before we reach the splendid semicircular precipice 
of Pleaskin itself. Sir John Forbes thinks It the most beautiful and pictur- 
esque of these cliffs, and that In which the various strata, particularly the colum- 

* See Hamilton, p. 128 ; Drummond, pp. 168-171. 



ANTRIM. 



151 




nar, are more regularly shown. However we may agree with Sir John, that 
" no drawing would do full justice to its splendor and magnificence, as seen in the 
morning sunshine from the boat;" still it will be seen that in the bold profile 
viewfrom the east, given by our artist, its remarkable features alluded toby Ham- 
ilton — whose description in its combination of scientific accuracy and pictorial 
effect has not been bettered by any writer since — are suggestively conveyed. 

The summit of Pleaskin is covered with a thin grassy sod, under which lies 
the natural rock, having generally an uniform hard surface, somewhat cracked 
and shivered. At the depth of twelve feet from the summit, this rock begins to 
assume a columnar tendency, and forms a 
range of massy pillars of basalt, which stand 1 

perpendicular to the horizon, presenting, in — ^ , ' 

the sharp face of the promontory, the appear- 
ance of a magnificent gallery or colonnade, 
upward of sixty feet in height. This colon- 
nade rests on a solid base of coarse, black, 
irregular rock, sixty feet thick, abounding in 
blebs or air-holes — but though comparatively 
irregular, it may be observed to affect a pe- 
culiar figure, tending in many places to run into regular forms, resembling the 
shooting of salts and many other substances duringa hasty crystallization. Under 
this great bed of coarse stone stands a second range of pillars, between forty and 
fifty feet in height, less gross and more sharply defined than those of the upper 
colonnade, many of them, on a close inspection, emulating even the neatness of 
the columns in the Giant's Causeway. This second range is supported on a 
layer of red ochre stone, which serves as a relief to show it to great advantage.* 
These two admirable natural galleries, together with the interjacent mass of 
irregular rock, form a perpendicular height of one hundred and seventy-five feet ; 
from the base of which, the promontory, covered over with rocks and grass, slopes 
down to the sea for the space of two hundred feet more, making in all a mass 
of nearly four hundred feet in height, which in beauty and variety of its coloring, 
in elegance and novelty of arrangement, and in the extraordinary magnitude of 
its objects, cannot readily be rivaled by anything of the kind at present known. 
The cliff appears as though it had been painted for effect in various shades of 



The Kin^ anil Ins \ool, \ j > oin tiu llisl. 



* " The only instances of different ranges of basalts that have hitherto been discovered, occur in the valuable work of 
M. Faujas de St. Fond on the volcanoes of Viverais, etc. ; but the arrangement which appears there, even with the neat- 
ness that always attends an engraving, is greatly inferior to that of Pleaskin." — Hamiltini. 



152 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



green, vermilion, red ochre, gray licliens, etc., its general form so beautiful, its sto- 
ried pillars, tier over tier, so architecturally graceful — its curious and various strati- 
fications supporting the columnar ranges, here the dark-brown amorphous basalt^ 




The Xiirsing Child — Priest and his Flock. 

there the red ochre, and below that again the slender but distinct lines of wood- 
coal; all the edges of its different stratifications tastefully diversified by the hand of 
nature, with grasses, ferns, and rock-plants. This theater of nature, composed 
of so many various strata harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, and gallery 
upon gallery, so magnificent, so solitary, facing the wide Atlantic as if formed 
for the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep," impresses the mind with admira- 
tion and awe, and shows us how nature surpasses in the symmetry of her plans as- 
much as in the magnitude of her materials. From " Hamilton's Seat" three mag- 
nificent headlands open upon the view, with all their singular and beautiful 
accompaniments of fanciful objects, such as the " Sea Gulls," the " King and his 
Nobles," the " Nursing Child," the " Priest and his Flock," and others ; but it is the 
Pleaskin itself which rivets the attention. Sir Richard Colt Hoare thought the 
view of the three promontories " truly astonishing and pleasing;" and S. C. Hall 



' "" mimi 



M 




I r n I 'lli, ^ 



I'illiiiip^ 



CHIMNEY ROCK— GIANT'S CAUSEWAV. 



154 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



even more enthusiastic, says " it is impossible for painter to portray, or the imagi- 
nation to conceive, a walk of more sublime beauty " than that which we have 
indicated. See the Pleaskin from the water, if you can, but do not fail to see it 
by land ; for, exclaims the same writer in advocacy of his urgent advice, " the 
wonders of the Causeway, the grandeur of Fair Head, the dells and glens, the 
changing yet perpetual beauty of Cushendall and Cushendun, of Glenarm and 
Red Bay, of all the Antrim coast and scenery — sink into comparative insignifi- 
cance before the combined grandeur and loveliness of the Pleaskin." 

The large illustration of the Pleaskin indicates the character of the formations 

beyond, and one of the "Sea Gull" 

^^ — '^US*' ^^- 3^^^&^^k Isles on the right ; there is another 

^[|| of the same name in Port Noffer. The 

illustration on page 152 presents a sug- 
gestive view of the line of promontories, 
from that over the " Nursing Child," 
near the center, which separates Port 
na Tober (the harbor of the well) 
from Port na Callian (the old woman's 
harbor), to the " Chimney Tops," on 
the headland to the extreme right ; 
and between them the group of rocks 
in the latter port, called the " Priest 
and his Flock." 

Getting over the "Horse's Back," 
the headland at the western extremity of Port na Callian, we behold Port na 
Spania, or Spanish harbor, so named from a vessel of the famous " Invincible Ar- 
mada" having been lost here. In this port is a stupendous precipice, almost 
equal to the Pleaskin ; and the formation of the pipe-like pillars on the perpen- 
dicular rock naturally suggested for the particular spot the title of the " Spanish 
Organ." Some islands and another little port, Madadh Ruadh (red fox har- 
bor), are passed, and we arrive at the promontory over which the insulated pillars, 
called the " Chimney Tops," are pinnacled. The tallest of the " Chimneys " is forty- 
five feet. Tradition says they derived their names from the fact that in the night- 
time they were mistaken for the chimneys of Dunluce Castle by one of the ships 
of the Spanish Armada, which opened its batteries on and succeeded in break- 
ing one of them. The ship was subsequently lost on the rocks in the little bay 
to the east. West of the Chimneys is Port Reostan, and the Roveren Valley, 




The Cluinncy 'I'ops—Jroni tlic East. 



ANTRIM. 



155 



Avhere there is a remarkable whin-dike which cuts the face of the cliff, shaped 
exactly like a barbed arrowhead. 

Of the whin-dikes, which abound on the coast, this is esteemed a fine speci- 
men. We have alluded to that of Carrig Maur at Fair Head. These dikes are 
walls of whinstone, trap, or prismatic basalt, varying from a few inches to forty 
and fifty feet in breadth, penetrating to an unknown depth, and often attended 
by a softening or an induration, and a dislocature of the strata through which 
they pass. Sometimes two of these walls or veins are seen running in parallel 
lines, and when they are interrupted by a chasm or arm of the sea, they rise on 
the opposite side with the same dis- 
tance and parallelism. Thus acontinu- ^ 
ation of the Antrim dikes is traced 

on the Scottish shores.* Passing the ^ '^i, 

broad high rock, generally covered with 
the birds which suggested the name of 
Sea Gull Isle, we are in Port Noffer, a 
corruption, no doubt of Port na Fhir, 
the port of the man, meaning the giant 
par excellence, Finn Mac Cumhal (pro- 
nounced Mac Cool), who has given his 
name to the famous Causeway — which 
is now in sight, forming the western 
boundary of the harbor — as well as to 
all the remarkable formations about it. 

To our left, rounding from the Sea 
Gull, is a magnificent colonnade of pillars one hundred and twenty feet in 
height on the side of the hill. It appears as though a landslide had disclosed the 
hidden range of vertical columns, which, in turn, seem to support the mountain 
above them and to prevent its further descent. This is the Giant's Organ, a 
name not too fanciful for the striking suggestiveness of the effect produced. 




Tlie Giant's Otgan. 



* See Drummoiid, Pref. xvii. Dr. Richardson on Whin-dikes; In addition to Hamilton, Richardson, rector of 
Clonfecle, has written with much care, and recorded observations of great value on the northern coast. These, with 
Portlock's Geology, will serve to illustrate the interesting formation of the north with a comprehensiveness worthy of the 
subject. See Doyle's Tours, etc., p. 249. Sir John Forbes, M.D.,in his Mefnorandunis, etc., 1853, gives an intelligent 
resume of information respecting the Giant's Causeway and its vicinity, paying merited acknowledgments to Dr. Rich 
ardson's writings, and to the more recent and excellent work on the subject, Geological Notices of the Environs 0/ Belfast, 
<r^(r., by James Bryce, Jun., M.A., 1S52. 



IS6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Opposite to this is the object of so much wonder — so many scientific visits, and 
so much speculation — the spot, as the poet Cowper sings, 



" Where Hilaernia shoots 

Her wondrous Causeway far into the main." 





The Giant's Causeway — East 

Here, then, is the celebrated Giant's Causeway ! to arrive at which so much 
magnificent scenery by land and coast has been traversed as a prelude to its widely- 
trumpeted still grander Avonders. Here is the object, to see which, oftentimes, the 
hastily expectant traveler rushes unobservant through vastly grander and more 
beautiful scener)'. But it is not too much to say, that those who come with pre- 
conceived notions of the Causeway — in which imagination bodied forth the forms 
of things unknown, and presented to the "mind's eye" the sought-for object on 
as vast a scale as the glorious promontories in the neighborhood — suffer consid- 
erable disappointmen-. The majority of visitors indulge, from whatever cause, 
in such notions; hence the too general feeling on first reaching the Giant's 
Causeway is one of utter failure to realize the expectations indulged in. The 
disappointment is in the ratio of the extravagant ideas formed of its magnitude.* 

■" " An inliabitant of the Alps would probably see but little grandeur in our basaltic mountains, though a cockney, who- 
has never strayed beyond the suburbs of London, would be struck with as much terror as Gray felt in the vale of Kes- 



Sf^, 
















u tl jiiliiiililitt li ti-iilik Ma 





158 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Physically speaking, the altitude and grandeur of Fair Head, Bengore and Pleas- 
kin more fitly realize their expectations, and having seen these, and having the 
appetite, so to speak, whetted more for the appreciation of the picturesque than 
the analysis of the profound, the Giant's Causeway seems in comparison small 
and insignificant. 

The view of the coast in the preceding illustration presents an accurate 
profile of the Causeway from the east. On the left we see the great cliff over 
Port Notfer, in which a portion of the Organ is visible ; under, and separated 
from the rocky amphitheater by a short space, the vertical columns of the chief 

(eastern) mole of the Causeway rise to nearly 
forty feet — the part is called The Loom — 
and diminish by degrees as it stretches out 
and sinks into the ocean. As the Causeway 
is the western extremity of Port Noffer, it 
forms the eastern boundary of Port na Ganye 
(sandy harbor), the western end of which is 
sentineled by the Steucans, the two pyramidal 
The Giants Well. rocks in the background. The illustration on 

the preceding page (157), from the land side, 
west, gives an excellent general view of the Causeway, the larger pier or mole jut- 
ting out in irregular outline to the ocean, the pillars at the commencement show- 
ing an inclination toward the west. The Middle Causeway is of a pyramidal con- 
figuration, and rises in the central part, called the Honeycomb, to a height of 
thirty feet. The Little Causeway, to the left of the latter, is the smallest, and 
partially hidden by intervening rocks on the land side. Over the Great Cause- 
way we see Port Noffer and the sheer headlands passed on the approach from 
the east. 

Having arrived at the Causeway, having stood upon it, the feelings undergo a 
transition. The first impression fades away when one begins to contemplate the 
structure and arrangement of the substance on which he is standing. As Forbes 
says, "it is neither grand nor picturesque, yet it is calculated to excite in the mind 
of every beholder feelings the most profound and various, and to inspire an 
intensity of interest rarely awakened by mere material nature." He seems 
to identify himself with the feelings e.xpressed by another and previous writer 
already quoted, that no matter how much the first appearance may disappoint, a 

wick. I have he.ird uf a colonel who was so much overpowered by his fears on going down the approach to the Giant's 
CauseHay, tl)at lie r. quired two or tliree brother officers to support him." — Drumvtond. 



ANTRIM. IS9 

near inspection will awaken ideas of wonder in the most vulgar, and arouse the 
scientific mind to admiration and delight. The want of magnitude in the Cause- 
way is compensated by its extraordinary beauty and singularity, and when once 
pacing the polygenic pavement, amazement takes the place of disappointment, 
and the tourist "will not consider that he has journeyed too far, or undergone 
too much fatigue, to examine with his own eyes this wonder of the world." The 
more it is examined, the more is wonder excited, until one is subdued into sensa- 
tions of profound admiration which might find expression in the words of the 
poet, who exclaims : " Here is the temple, and the altar of Nature, devised by her 
own ingenuity, and executed with a symmetry and grace, a grandeur and a bold- 
ness which Nature only could accomplish. These cliffs faced with magnificent 
columns ; those broken precipices of vermilion-colored rock ; yon insulated pil- 
lars, obelisks erected before Greece boasted of her architectural skill, or Egypt 
laid the foundation of her pyramids, proclaim the power and wisdom of the Crea- 
tor. This mole too, so firmly bound and cemented, surpasses the harmony of 
art, and in stability and grandeur, sets all the efforts of rivalship at defiance. It 
is a monument saved from the convulsion which sunk a continent, and produced 
the disruption of the isles. For a period beyond all written records it has borne 
the fury of the waves and tempests, yet still it is solid and unimpaired as when 
first it was laid, and it seems to claim a duration coeval with the structure of the 
world." 

And what is this wonder that so conquers disappointment, and commands 
the deepest words of contemplative admiration, even amid scenes of rare and 
unique magnificence ? It can only be described literally. The Giant's Causeway 
is composed of three divisions, the Little Causeway, the Middle Causeway, and 
the Great Causeway. The whole projects from the base of a steep promontory 
into the sea between ports Noffer and Ganye, and is formed of perpendicular 
pillars of basalt which stand in contact with each other, resembling somewhat a 
honeycomb. The pillars, which are computed to amount to forty thousand, and 
to occupy about three acres in superficial area, are irregular prisms diversified in 
size and form, exhibiting every number of sides from three to nine, and having 
diameters varying from fifteen to twenty-six inches. The majority have five, six, 
and seven sides, but the hexagonal columns are as numerous as all the others to- 
gether. A few have four and eight sides ; only three, it is said, have been found 
with nine sides; and only one with three. On minute inspection each pillar is 
found to be separable into several joints, ranging from four inches to four feet, 
and two joints are rarely, if ever, of the same length in the same pillar. On the 



i6o 



PICTURES Q UE I RE LA ND. 



eastern side of the grand Causeway one of the pillars has thirty-eight joints, and 
two have been broken off. The articulation of the joints is neat and compact 
beyond expression, so much so, that the blade of a penknife cannot be inserted 
between them : the convex termination of one joint always meeting a concave 
socket in the next, besides which, the angles of one frequently extend over those of 
the other, so that they are completely locked together, and can rarely be separated 
without a fracture of some of their parts. Although plainly visible, the joinings 
are so close and fine as to be impervious to water. There is no fixed rule as to 




it L 



i- 



iiilQilij^dl 




'.-I ,3, raw Shi ^Fi, I I 







Tlie " Honey comb y Muidh Caustway^from Lttth LaU!,Luuiy . 

the existence of either the convexity or concavity in the individual pieces, some 
having two convex ends, some two concave ends, and some one concave and one 
convex. In no case is the concavity or convexity great, the vertical extent of 
either seldom being more, generally less, than one inch. The sides of each 
column are unequal among themselves, but contiguous sides of adjoining columns 
are always of equal dimensions, so as to touch all their parts. Though the 
angles be of various magnitudes, the columns are as closely united laterally as the 
joints are vertically. Hence there are no void spaces among the basalts, the 
surface of the Causeway presenting a compact pavement of polygon stones, as 




l|l|||||||l|!|i|j!l|j|ll|l|l|{| 



i62 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

perfectly water-tight in their lateral as in their vertical union. Indeed, water will 
remain over the angles of junction until removed by evaporation. On the west 
side, however, below the Giant's Punchbowl, in the midst of broken columns, there 
is a well of the purest water springing from between the fine interstices of the pil- 
lars, and keeping a perpetual and delicious supply for the thirsty traveler in a 
basin made by the removal of a hexagonal joint. It is, of course, called the 
Giant's Well, as every object and curious formation — Chair, Pulpit, Ball-Alley, 
Loom, Theater, Organ, Gateway, etc., pertains to the mighty Finn, the son of 

Cumhal, who 

" to Dalriada's coast 

Led the tall squadrons of his Finnian host," 

to check the incursions of the Scots. A short space separates the inner end of 
the Causeway from the rocky amphitheater behind it, on the face of which are 
exposed many patches of columnar basalt, one of which is called the Horizontal 
pillars, the prisms, as seen to the right of the steel-plate illustration, projecting 
horizontally out of the cliff. Two of the whin-dikes, so numerous in the locality, 
cut across the prisms of the Causeway, and are the cause of its division into 
three piers. The upper part of these dikes having been broken off, the result is 
that the piers seem to be separated rather by hollows than by prominences. The 
tourist usually approaches the Causeway from the west, visiting first the Little 
Causeway, next the Middle, or Honeycomb, and last the Great Causeway, after 
exploring the extent of which, exit is made by the Giant's Gateway to the 
shore, where the fine colonnade of the Loom can be examined. The exact dimen- 
sions of the whole Causeway, as taken by a surveyor under the direction of Sir 
John Forbes, are — 

Length of Grand Causeway from north to south, low-water mark, . . . 720 feet. 

Breadth of ditto from east to west, .......... 180 " 

Highest point, " Loom," south end, .......... 35 " ■ 

Height of northwest point, . . . . ., . . . 13 " 

Lengh of Middle Causeway from north to soutli, ....... 350 " 

Breadth of ditto from east to west, ......... 100 " 

Height of " Honeycomb," ...... .... 30 " 

Length of Little or Western Causeway, 150 " 

Breadth of ditto from east to west 80 " 

Highest part . . . . . . . 20 " 

" Giant's Well " over low water, .......... 6 " 

Breadth of Whin-dike between Middle and Grand Causeway, . . . 50 " 

Breadth of the whole three Causeways from east to west, ..... 410 " 

As may be seen from these measurements and the pictorial illustrations, the 



ANTRIM. 



163 



general surface of the Causeway is very irregular. It was noticed many years 
ago that a twist was observable in the Great Causeway, the pillars dipping into 
the sea tending eastward, while those of the south or inner end leaned to the 
west. Mr. Bryce claims that the pillars of the three portions of the Causeway, 
all lean inward, which is accounted for by their standing "upon a concave de- 
pression in the upper surface of the ochre bed, the pillars being at right angles 
to the concave surface." He states that he has traced some of the columns 
to their base and found them resting on the bed of ochre. This would seem 
to carry out the theory that the Causeway was the depressed continuation 
of the second range of pillars noticed 
at the Pleaskin, descending in its 
westward course, denuded of the 
upper strata by some convulsion, of 
which the land-slide that developed 
the Organ may be an indication, and 
gradually dipping into the sea, be- 
tween ports Noffer and Ganye. 

Travelers are variously impressed 
by the different objects and views. 
For the German, Kohl, the Giant's 
Amphitheater seems to have had a 
Teutonic force and effect. He says 
it "is certainly the most beautiful 
amphitheater in the world, that in 
Rome not excepted. The form of it 
is so exact half a circle, that no architect could have possibly made it more so, 
and the cliff slopes at precisely the same angle all around to the center. Round 
the upper part runs a row of columns eighty feet high ; then comes a broad 
rounded projection, like an immense bench, for the accommodation of the giant 
guests of Fin Mac Coul ; then again a row of pillars sixty feet high, and then 
again a gigantic bench, and so down to the bottom, where the water is inclosed 
by a circle of black boulder stones, like the limits of the arena. This is a scene, 
in speaking of which no traveler need fear indulging in terms of exaggeration, 
for all that he can say must remain far behind the truth." 

These are the obvious external characters of this extraordinary pile of ba- 
salts, observed and described with wonder by every one who has seen it ; but, 
as Hamilton observes, it is not here that our admiration should cease ; — whatever 




Port Coon Cave. 



1 64 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

the process was by which nature produced that beautiful and curious arrange- 
ment of pillars so conspicuous about the Causeway, the cause, far from being 
limited to that spot alone, appears to have extended through a large tract of 
country, in every direction, insomuch that many of the common quarries, for 
several miles around, seem to be only abortive attempts toward the production 
of a Giant's Causeway. The mountain of Dunmull, lying between Coleraine and 
the river Bush, abounds in this species of stone, particularly at the Craigsof Isla- 
more, where two different ranges of columns were discovered. They may be 
seen also at Dunluce Hill, near the Castle of Dunluce ; in the bed of the river 
Bush near the bridge of Bushmills ; on the summit of the mountain of Croagh- 
more; in many parts of the high land over Ballintoy ; in the island of Rathlin, and 
various other places, through an extent of coast about fifteen miles long and two 
miles wide. Beyond this tract, which abounds in perfect pillars, an attentive ob- 
server will be able to trace the same species of fossils in very distant parts of the 
countr}^, as far as the northern shore of Lough Neagh, and the mountains of the 
County of Derry ; in many places of which imperfect columnar forms may be 
observed : so that the great cause which generated this species of stone has been 
exerted through a space of more than forty miles in length, and twenty in breadth ; 
that is, through above eight hundred square miles. 

In view of all the facts known, the German traveler already quoted gives ex- 
pression to some thoughts with which the contemplative observer will readily 
unite in sympathy. " With all the explanations that can be offered, however, so 
much is left unexplained, that they answer very little purpose. On a close inves- 
tigation of these wonderful formations, so many questions arise, that one scarcely 
ventures to utter them. With inquiries of this nature, perhaps not the least gain 
is the knowledge of how much lies beyond the limits of our inquiries, and how 
many things that lie so plainly before our eyes, which we see and handle, may 
yet be wrapped in unfathomable mystery. We see in the Giant's Causeway the 
most certain and obvious effects produced by the operation of active and power 
ful forces which entirely escape our scrutiny. We walk over the heads of some 
forty thousand columns, all beautifully cut and polished, formed of such neat 
pieces, so exactly fitted to each other, and so cleverly supported, that we might 
fancy we had before us the work of ingenious human artificers ; and yet what we 
behold is the result of the immutable laws of nature, acting without any apparent 
object, and by a process which must remain a mystery forever to our understand- 
ing. Even the simplest inquiries it is often impossible to answer ; such, for 
instance, as how far these colonnades run out beneath the sea, and how far 



ANTRIM. 



165 




Dunkirrv Cave. 



into the land, which throws over them a veil as impenetrable as that of 
ocean." 

Without attempting to analyze the nature of the complex mental state 



i66 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

experienced at the Causeway, or to trace is constituent varieties, Forbes thinks 
the elemental feeling is wonder! Wonder at the mere outward and material 
objects cognizable by the senses — wonder, tenfold wonder (to use his own words) 
" at the various and manifold conceptions and imaginations springing up instan- 
taneously in the inner mind, like magical creations, around this one primary and 
central emotion." In expressing this feeling the scientist affords no mean stan- 
dard by which to judge of the object which compelled it, when he adds the hope 
that he has not conveyed to others an idea of exaggeration or extravagance, or 
of emotions extended "beyond the sober amount of those commonly experienced 
by men who are lovers of nature, when they chance to be placed amid scenes 
highly impressive." 

Both Hamilton and Drummond call attention to the singular error cultivated 
by Mr. Pennant, when, referring to Sir Joseph Banks' description of Fingal's Cave 
in the island of Staffa, he stated that "Staffa is a genuine mass of basalts of 
Giant's Causeway, but in most respects superior to the Irish in grendeur." Had 
he contented himself with saying that Fingal's Cave excels in regularity of struc- 
ture any cave on the coast of Antrim, he might have obtained credit. But to 
assert that the grandeur of Staffa will bear any comparison with the scenery of 
the Giant's Causeway and its neighborhood, is so extravagant, that any one who 
repeats it, may be fairly suspected of having never made both places the object 
of contemplation. The whole extent of Staffa is scarcely a mile in length, and 
not half that space in breadth, and its greatest elevation does not exceed one 
hundred and twenty-eight feet. What is this compared to the great range of 
promontories from Port Noffer to Bengore, an undulating line of coast, extending 
upward of three miles, and rising in some places, as at Pleaskin, to an elevation of 
nearly four hundred feet, presenting, in a continual series of semicircular bays, 
in its gigantic colonnades, and the fantastic variety of its rocks, the most mag- 
nificent and unparalleled scenery? If, in the grand features of sublimity, Staffa 
sinks below comparison with the Antrim coast, it is also greatly inferior both 
in variety and beauty. Hamilton truly observes that" neither are the best speci- 
mens of pillars at Staffa at all comparable to those of the Giant's Causeway in 
neatness of form or singularity of articulation." 

In caves, Antrim is romantically rich. Some writers say that its ancient 
Irish name indicated it as a land of caves. They abound everywhere along the 
coast, penetrating the amorphous basalt of Cave Hill and the Gobbins, the red 
ochre of Cushendall, the pudding-stone of Cushendun, and the limestone of Larne, 
Ballintoy, and Dunluce. Some of these caves, particularly those of Cushendun 



ANTRIM. 



167 



f-' -':^>f 






and Ballintoy. are dry and roomy, affording the fishermen good accommodations 
for building and keeping their boats. Grace Staples' cave is, as before stated, 
remarkable for its columnar uniqueness. Near to the Causeway — passing the 
Steuckans and Port na Baw (cow-port) — is Port Coon (ocean port), and its cave, 
which can be visited from land or sea. It is difificult to say which affords the 
finest view, but to enter it in a boat and row into it for some two hundred and 
fifty feet is to experience a very novel sensation. The roof and walls, at some 
places forty-six feet high, are composed of onion basalt embedded in an argilla- 
ceous cement of exceeding hardness. The sides are covered with a greenish slime, 
and the glancing of the trem- 
bling lights and the reflections 
of the water upon it produce a 
lurid and unearthly effect. To 
this weirdness add the explo- 
sion of a gun, which crashes 
from arch to arch like a peal *^^™; 
of deafening thunder, till 
it rolls out of the cavern, 
and you have a vivid sug- 
gestion of some demoniac re- 
gion. Standing on the rocky 
foundation in, and with the cave lit up from the interior, the effect is — if less 
startingly sensational — not less picturesquely attractive. 

Farther west, between Port Coon and the Bush-foot-strand, is Dunkerry Cave, 
with which, for grandeur, no cave in Antrim can compare. It is accessible only 
from the ocean, between two mural ridges of jet-black basalt. Passing this roof- 
less vestibule you enter the cave through a grand and striking portico twenty-six 
feet wide ; and float beneath the dome, sixty-five feet over high-water mark. Its 
extent into the land has not been ascertained, owing to the contraction of the 
sides to a mysterious cleft, through which the waves are heard rolling and roar- 
ing to a dark, deep distance ; recalling the strikingly imaginative lines of Ross 
Wallace on other 

" Caves where banished gods might find 

Night large enough to hide their crownless heads.' 

Meditations in America. 




Bush Mill. 



The lofty dome and walls, so far as observable, are overspread with a cover- 
ing of green confervse, which suggests the idea that it might have been scooped 



1 68 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

out of solid emerald. A crimson zone of marine plants, some six feet in breadth 
above the surface of the water, surrounds and adorns it ; adding to the richness 
of effect. Not the least thrilling circumstance of a visit to this remarkable cave, 
is produced by the motion of the water. It is easily observable that the swell 
of the ocean along this coast is at all times ponderously heavy — massive and 
vast in its surging motion as though continually testing the strength of the cliffs 
that confront it. As wave after wave rolls into the cave, the water rises with 
such an apparently measureless and awful swell, as to convey an apprehension of 
an unceasing increase until the flood washed the dome. This creates an almost 
breathless anxiety in any nervous person ; and is calculated to introduce a tremor 
into the novel pleasure experienced by the stoutest. It is said that the roaring 
of the waters in this cave in the winter nights, breaks the rest of the cottagers a 
mile distant. 

Bushmills, a little town near the end of the valley of the Bush, two miles and 
a half from the Causeway, was named after the oldest mill in the north, the ruins 
of which were standing not very many j^ears back. The rapid waters of the fine 
stream have been wisely utilized for mills and shops, and the town gives its 
name to an excellent brand of whiskey distilled in it. The town is the property 
of the Macnaghtens, whose paternal care for it and the locality, is evinced in 
numerous improvements, useful as well as ornamental. Dundarave, the family 
seat, a mile from the town, is situated on one of the heights overlooking the 
ocean ; and commands a splendid prospect, east and west. 

Less than four miles distant, on the road to Portrush, we behold the next 
grand object, Dunluce Castle, which is not only the most striking ruins on the 
Antrim coast, but perhaps the most picturesque ruins in Ireland. Like Dun- 
severick it is situated on an isolated rock one hundred and twenty feet high, 
washed on three sides by the ocean, and separated from the mainland by a 
chasm thirty feet wide, with which it is joined below by an. isthmus of rock ; 
and above by an arched wall some eighteen inches in thickness. A similar wall 
originally ran parallel to this and was connected with it by a flooring. This 
has perished long since, and the visitor to the ruins must cross the remaining 
narrow path, the appearance of which does not tempt many to venture. The 
original date and builder of the castle are unknown ; but the work shows various 
periods of erection. It is not improbable that De Courcy, who pursued his 
conquests as far as Dunluce, may have laid the foundation of the earlier portion, 
and that it was afterward enlarged and improved by the Mac Ouillans and Mac 
Donnells. It was taken from the English by a Mac Quillan in 15 13, and held 



ANTRIM. 



169 



by him or his, until ou 
ed by a Mac Donnell 1 
der the protection 
James I. soon after the 
accession of that mon- 
arch. It is noteworthy 
that the walls are built 
of columnar basalt, many 
joints of which are so 
placed as to show three 
polygon sections ; and in 
one of the windows of 
the north side the build- 
er contrived to splay 
off the wall in a neat 
manner by using the 
joints of a pillar whose 
angle was sufficiently ob- 
tuse to suit his purpose. 
The walls are of great 
thickness. On the main- 
land are extensive ruins 
of more recent date than 
the castle, which occupies 
the entire summit of the 
rock, while a vast cavern 
perforates it below. The 
castle's dark basaltic 
walls, marked with the 
mellow tints of time, in 
some places form a per- 
pendicular line with the 
mural cliffs on which it 
is built, and in others 
seem to project or to 
stand without founda- 
tion, by reason of the 




I70 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

rocks' decay. Its commanding position, and the number of its gables and tur- 
rets, resembling the ruins of a village destroyed by fire, inspire a high idea of its 
ancient magnificence and lost splendor. Willis thought it the most picturesque 
ruin he ever beheld, and lest this might seem extravagant praise, a writer in 
Pichij^esqtce Ettrope adds — that " with all its massive greatness, its commanding 
position, and all the surrounding accessories of land and water, backed by the 
Causeway,- and growing, as it were, out of the stupendous cliffs of which it seems 
a part, that are eternally lashed by the ocean-waves, Dunluce Castle may claim 
to be as fine a specimen of baronial grandeur as any land can boast of." Bayard 
Taylor, who as a youth ventured across the arched wall, gives us a glimpse of 
castle and cave in a storm. " An old man, who takes care of it for Lord Antrim, 
on whose property it is situated, showed us the way down to the castle. We 
walked across the narrow arch, entered the ruined hall, and looked down on the 
roaring sea below. It still rained, the wind swept furiously through the decay- 
ing arches of the banqueting-hall and waved the long grass on the desolate 
battlements. Far below, the sea foamed white on the breakers, and sent up 
an unceasing boom. It was the most mournful and desolate picture I ever be- 
held. There were some low dungeons yet entire, and rude stairways, where, 
by stooping down, I could ascend nearly to the top of the towers, and look 
out on the wild scenery of the coast. Going back I found a way down the 
cliff to the mouth of a cavern in the rock, which extends under the whole castle 
to the sea. Sliding down a heap of sand and stones, I stood under an arch 
eighty feet high ; in front the breakers dashed into the entrance, flinging the 
spray halfway to the roof, while the sound rang up through the arches like 
thunder. It seemed to me the haunt of the old Norsemen's sea-gods ! " 

Dunluce Castle passed from the Mac Ouillans into the hands of Mac 
Donnell by treachery of the latter, who was a guest of the former ; and one 
of the latest historical circumstances of which it was the theater, presents a 
Mac Donnell in turn as the victim of treachery on the part of another guest. In 
1642, General Munroe, making a visit to Mac Donnell, now Earl of Antrim, at 
Dunluce, was received with honor and profuse hospitality, and availed himself 
of the opportunity to seize his unguarded host and send him in chains to Car- 
rickfergus. He took possession of this castle, and handed over the other castles 
of the earl in the Route and theGlynns to the Marquis of Argyle's Highlanders. ' 
Upon his restoration the earl abandoned Dunluce as a residence, for Ballyma- 
garry, in the neighborhood. A fire occurring here in 1750, the seat of the 
Antrim family was transferred to the less wild but beautiful Glenarm. 




L^^^ 






ANTRIM. 171 

From Dunluce, on all sides splendid prospects are obtained. Looking west, 
the view is really magnificent, embracing the White Rocks, Portrush, the cliffs 
of Magilligan, in Londonderry, and the mountains of Innishowen in Donegal, 
with an illimitable range of ocean. The White Rocks are a strangely pic- 
turesque range of wave-worn rocks, a mile in length, between Dunluce and the 
beach of Portrush. Within a stretch of two miles, it is said, there are some 
twenty-seven caverns made by the waves on the white limestone — natural exca- 
vations in most fantastic shapes — tunnels, niches, and pointed arches. The 
remains of former caves far above the present level and action of the sea, 
■suggest many speculations to the observer. Portrush, a busy town, regarded 
as the port of Coleraine, is prettily situated within shelter of a noble headland, 
forming a peninsula, consisting of the celebrated Portrush Rock, which has been 
the subject of learned and warm discussion among geologists. Having good 
accommodations and a fine sandy beach on each side, and being within easy 
reach of such world-renowned objects, it is a favorite watering-place. 

Of course, the weather permitting, an excursion in a four-oared boat along 
this coast adds immeasurably to the interest. The full effect of the perpen- 
dicular precipices and their basaltic colonnades is experienced from the water. 
Under certain combinations of sea and sky, optical illusions and aery pageants, 
similar to those in the Straits of Reggio, between Sicily and the coast of Cala- 
bria, are produced — 

" Where gay Morgana and her fairy train 
Sport with the senses." 

These phenomena have been seen between Rathlin Island and the main- 
land, and near Bush-foot Strand. A writer in the Christian Examiner, some 
years ago, was a fortunate witness, and gave a lively idea of this wonderful illu- 
sion. The party had reached the center of the bay, and the whole shore from 
Bengore to Portrush was observable. " Look, gentlemen !" said one of the boat- 
men, "there are the merry dancers on Portrush Point," and on looking in that 
direction the writer beheld the most extraordinary phenomenon. Portrush 
Point, which a few moments before was the least interesting object on the coast, 
now assumed a most commanding aspect. A lofty mountain arose instead of a 
long flat — a conical peak like Croagh Patrick — rugged rocks with their serrated 
points pierced the clouds ; and instantly all this vanished, and a beautiful softly- 
swelling wooded hill presented itself, a lofty embattled castle, a broad belt of 
full-grown wood, green lawns, and all the decorations of a nobleman's domain. 



172 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



You might conceive yourself at once transported to Plymouth Harbor, and that 
you saw Mount Edgecombe before you. And, again, as by talismanic touch, all 
this disappeared, and on a plain two embattled armies seemed to oppose one 
another, and dense masses of troops, horse and foot, stood motionless, as if in 
suspense for the battle signal, and now they rushed together, and the opposing 
battalions closed on each other, and a loose shapeless cloud rose up, as if it 
were the mingled dust and smoke ascending from the conflict ; and all at once 

the whole vision 
dissolved away, and 
nothing was seen 
but the 1 o w, un- 
interesting penin- 
sula of Portrush. 
I had heard of 
this phenomenon 
appearing on the 
coast of Ireland. 
I had read some- 
thing like it as 
occurring in the 
Straits of Messina, 
and, on the present 

occasion, my astonishment and delight cannot be expressed. So vivid was the 
delusion — so strange, so beautiful, so magnificent was the optical representation, 
that were I in the remotest part of Ireland, and assured that I would see it 
again, I should, without hesitation, and, at almost any sacrifice of time or trou- 
ble, attend to witness it again. The boatmen assured me it was by no means of 
frequent occurrence, and he who was best acquainted with its appearance said 
that it required a concurrence of wind, tide, and weather that did not often coin- 
cide to produce it." 

Having made the grand tour of the Antrim coast, and reached the north- 
Avestern boundary of the county, the tourist can proceed through the interior and 
visit Lough Neagh and Shane's Castle by rail from Portrush. On the route the 
thriving town of Ballymoney is passed, and at about the center of the county, in 
the midst of well-cultivated surroundings, we reach Ballymena, the second town 
in size and importance in the county ; and one of the most important linen and 
flax markets in Ireland. It has a population of nearly 7,000, and the sale of 




Sliaiu s CastL Jioin LoiigJi Aeagh. 




VIEWS NEAR SHANE'S CASTLE AND LOUGH NEAGH. 



174 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

brown linens averages one million sterling (five million dollars) annually. Near 
the town is a noted rath fifty feet high, in connection with which is another 
mound in the form of an amphitheater : and within sight is Slemish {Sleive MisJi), 
1,400 feet in height, where Saint Patrick as a captive youth filled the duties of a 
swineherd. On the Ahogill road, two miles from Ballymena, is the handsome 
village of Gracehill, a Moravian settlement founded in 1765. 

Midway from Ballymoney to Ballymena, are the Craigs rocks, which form a 
square of nine thousand feet in area, with a very deep trench, close to which are 
three pillars erect and tapering, supposed to have been raised in honor of some 
valiant chieftain slain in battle. A short distance from them, in the hollow 
of a high and craggy ridge, is a cromlech, or druidical altar — a slab of black 
heavy stone, one foot in thickness, ten feet long, and eight broad, originally 
placed upon five supporters. Beneath this is a chamber which communicates 
with two others, about seven feet square, and arched over — the whole standing 
within a circle of a hundred and thirty-five feet in circumference, the ground un- 
derneath having formerly Been hollowed into a kind of cavern. Mason's Statis- 
tical Szirvey observes that this place must have been the theater of great events 
in former times, and possesses more remains of antiquity than can be anywhere 
seen in the same space of ground. 

A visit to Lough Neagh, with the adjoining ruins, woods and plantations of 
Shane's Castle, Massareene Park, and Ram's Island, is made to the best advan- 
tage from Randalstown, where the chief gate to the Shane's Castle demesne is 
located. The river Main also enters it here, and a handsome bridge of a single 
lofty arch over it connects Deer Park with the grounds. The latter, undulating, 
varied and elegantly laid out, extend for three miles westward along the upper 
shores of Lough Neagh, and the timber, especially along the banks of the wind- 
ing river, which enters the lough at some distance above the castle, is said to 
be the most magnificent in Ireland. " Nowhere else," says Walker, " can be seen 
primitive oak so large, or so venerable from age." 

The ruins embrace the remains of the old residence of the O'Neills, as well 
as those of a magnificent modern addition. The edifice was destroyed by fire in 
1 8 16. A deep and lasting interest attaches to the place as the residence of the 
O'Neills, who for so many centuries were associated with the history of Ulster 
and of Ireland. Shane, who built the old castle, was one of the boldest and most 
powerful Irish chiefs of any period. He was virtually sovereign of Ulster, and of 
course was the object of intense hatred on the part of the English, who had him 
treacherously assassinated at a feast, and vilified him dead as much as they feared 



ANTRIM. 



175 




Lisburn. 



him living.* In a private burial-ground in the demesne is the tomb of the 
Claneboy branch of the O'Neills. The O'Neill chair, the ancient stone seat 
upon which so many 
chiefs of this historic 
family were inaugur- 
ated, is an interesting 
relic. It originally 
stood on the hill of 
Castlereagh, about 
two miles from Bel- 
fast ; but after the re- 
verses of the race it 
was overturned and 
neglected. In 1750 
it was removed to 
Belfast, and built into the wall of the Market House ; on the demolition of which 
it was again displaced and became the property of Mr. Roger Walker, abarrister- 
at-law, of Rathcarrick in the County of Sligo. It is constructed of common 
whin, or grit stone ; and the seat is lower and the back higher than of an ordi- 
nary chair. 

Lough Neagh is the largest lake in the United Kingdoms, and is exceeded 
in extent by only three lakes in Europe. Its shores are in general uninteresting, 
and it is only from the northern and eastern sides that it presents any pictur- 
esque detail. It has none of the charms of lake scenery ; but presents the appear- 
ance, rather, of " a little inland sea," being fourteen miles in length, by eleven in 
breadth, and with a shore outline of some sixty-six miles. By the Ordnance Survey 
it contains 98,255, acres and is forty-eight feet above the sea at low tide. Sound- 
ings made by Lieutenant Graves, however, show that in some places it is more 
than 100 feet deep, or about fifty feet below the sea-level. It is supplied by five 
rivers and three streams ; and its only outlet is the lower Bann. It is famous 
for its petrifactions and pebbles. The old tradition that the sudden overflowing 
of a fountain inundated the country supplied Moore with a well-known and beau- 
tiful figure in one of his melodies. Ram Island, which contains the remains 
of a round tower, is seven acres in extent — a spot of great beauty off the eastern 
shore, well laid out, planted with rose trees, and a profusion of flowering plants. 

* A vivid and vigorous sketch of this remarkable man will be found in The Lives and Times of Illustrious and 
Representative Irishmen, by Thomas Clarice Luby, A.B.T.C.D. Vol, I. 



1/6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The Shane's Castle demesne extends to the town of Antrim, an old place dating 
from A.D. 495, when Aodh, a disciple of St. Patrick, founded a monastery there. 

It is situated on 
the Sixmile -Wa- 
ter, and separated 
from the lough 
by the demesne 
of Viscount Mas- 
sareene, which ex- 
tends two miles 
south along the 
shore. A san- 
guinary battle 
took place here, 
when Sir Robert 
Savage, one of 
the earliest 
Anglo-Norman 
settlers, dealt 
great destruction 
to the native 
Irish. In 1649 

it was burned by Munroe, and in 1 798 was the scene of a well-contested fight 
between the United Irishmen under Henry Joy McCracken and James Hope, 
and the Royalists under General Nugent. 

Near the town, in the plantation of Mr. Clarke, is a round tower ninety-five 
feet high, the cone at the summit being twelve feet. It is forty-nine feet cir- 
cumference at the base, and the door is seven feet nine inches from the ground. 
Around the base great quantities of human bones have been found. 

Returning to Belfast, the reading student will be induced to visit Lisburn — 
seeing on the way the ruins of the round tower at Trummery. In addition to 
the connection of Lisburn with the commercial staple of the north, it has many 
historical associations, but none perhaps of greater interest than that derived 
from the fact that Jeremy Taylor, the author of Holy Living, officiated and died 
there, and that beneath the octagon cupola of its church is his monument, and 
the pulpit from which the most eloquent divine of the English Church — the 
Shakspere of English theology — delivered his famous sermons. 




Round Tower at Aiiirim. 



Alf^^MIM 





CnyrleliV, 187S, by TLumus Kolly, Nuw Y 



GALWAY. 




Abbey of Clare — Galway. 



In territorial extent Galway is the second county in Ireland ; extending as it 
■does, from the Islands of Innishark and Innisbofifin, and the Arran Islands on 
the western coast to the center of the kingdom, where the Shannbn, after re- 
ceiving the Suck, takes a southwesterly course at Shannon Harbor, and then 
expanding into Lough Derg, divides its most southern extremity from the coun- 
12 177 



178 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



ties of Tipperary and Clare. If the eastern portion of the county is flat and 
uninteresting, it contains a fine vein of land, from Gort by Loughrea to Ballina- 
sloe, supposed to be a continuation of the Golden Vale of the south ; and the 
northeastern part about Dunmore is happily diversified by hill and dale. It is 
in the west, however, between Lough Corrib and the sea, that the tourist will 
indulge his passion for the wild and the picturesque. There are perhaps three 
hundred lakes of all sizes, twenty of which are navigable, in Galway. The 
largest, and second only to Lough Neagh, is Corrib, which divides the county 
into two unequal parts. On its west, with the bay of Galway on the south, and 

Killery Harbor on the north, are the districts known 
as lar-Connaught, Connemara, and Joyces' Country. 
In this region the artist can revel. In its conforma- 
tion it is peculiar, as, although mountainous, the 
district is not specially an upland country such as we 
have seen in Wicklow. Great part of lar-Connaught 
rises from the shore of Galway Bay by a gentle 
elevation to about three hundred feet, and at the 
upper edge to seven hundred feet : beyond this is a 
low limestone country to the shore, and has but a 
slight elevation over the level, of Lough Corrib. 
Joyces' Country, along the Killeries, is an elevated 
tract, with flat topped mountains from nine hundred 
to two thousand feet high, intersected by deep and 
narrow valleys. Connemara, lying between these 
districts, and containing the highest peaks, as Maam Turk and Bennabola, is yet 
for three-fourths of its extent less than one hundred feet above the sea-level. 
The scenic effect is consequently peculiarly enhanced by the sudden altitude of 
the mountains over the lakes and lowlands. 

In the first quarter of the second century, a line drawn from Dublin to Gal- 
way divided the island between Conn of the Hundred Fights, and Eogan Mor, 
King of Munster, also called Mogh Nuadath : the northern part being denomi- 
nated Leth-Conn (Conn's half), and the southern Leth-Mogha. In reference to 
this partition the ancient bard sings : 




Arch in the Claddagh. 



' Great Eogan, fortune -favored chief, 
Soars high as Conn of the Hundred Fights- 
These heroes twain, of glory bright, 
Between them share green Eri's land. " 



GAL WAY. 



179 



Soon after the Anglo-Norman incursion, William de Burgo and other leaders 
led their forces into Connaught, and after fierce contests with the O'Conors, 
O'Flahertys and other chiefs, got possession of a large portion of the territory. 
The De Burgos became the most powerful family in this ancient kingdom, were 
its chief governors under the English kings, were styled lords of Connaught, and 
became earls of Ulster. On the assassination of William de Burgo, Earl of 
Ulster, in 1333, and the marriage of his 
daughter Elizabeth to Lionel Duke of Clar- 
ence, son of Edward III., his titles passed 
into the royal family of England, by whom 
they are still held. The head of a younger 
branch, Sir William, seized the De Burgo 
possessions here, and adopting Irish cus- 
toms, called himself Mac William Eighter ; 
from his son Richard, a great part of Galway 
took the name, and subsequently gave the 
title to the family — of Clan-Ricard. Sir 
Edmond also adopted the Irish language 
and customs, called himself Mac William 
Oughter, seized the property in Mayo, and 
became the ancestor of the earls of Mayo. 

The bay of Galway is considered to be 
the Ansoba of Ptolemy, and the town, the 
Nagtcata of the same geographer, described 
as the principal city of the western coast ; a belief strengthened by its original 
Irish name Czian-iia-guactie, meaning the port of the small islands. On the de- 
feat of the Danish invaders on the east at Clontarf, the people of Galway, realiz- 
ing the importance of its situation, built a castle for defense, which, exciting the 
jealousy of the Munster kings, was twice destroyed by them, and restored by the 
people of Connaught. At the time of the English invasion the castle was held 
by Hugh O'Flaherty, who extended protection to the few families and the fisher- 
men who comprised the town. De Burgo took the castle from the O'Flahertys 
in 1232 and became master of the town. He lost both, but finally recovered 
them, put up fortifications, and established a municipal government. The in- 
creased security offered inducements to enterprise, and in the twelfth and thir- 
teenth centuries a settlement was made by thirteen Anglo-Norman and Welsh 
families known as " the Tribes of Galway," who enriched themselves by com- 




Street in Gtlway 



i8o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

merce and the purchase of land ; and whose descendants are among the leading 
people of the county at the present day.'" 

" The City of the Tribes " is a county within itself, advantageously situated on 
the north side of Galway Bay, and built on both sides of the river which carries 
off the waters of Lough Corrib. There are three bridges over the river connect- 
ing the old- and new town, and the district of the Claddagh which is close to the 
sea. As in most fortified towns, houses were crowded together in the old part ; 
and from intercommunication and the adoption of foreign customs it has a 
strikingly foreign aspect. In the fourteenth century and later, extensive com- 
mercial relations existed between Spain and Ireland, and Galway was the only 
port much frequented by the foreigners. Rich Irish merchants visited and had 
branch houses in Spain, and Spanish merchants settled in Galway. Intermar- 
riages naturally followed ; with Spanish luxuries, and houses having inclosed 
courts, fortified gates, and archways across, or leading into the street. In Gal- 
way, says Kohl, the traveler will find "a quaint and peculiar city, with antiqui- 
ties such as he will meet with nowhere else. The old town is throughout of 
Spanish architecture, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and all the fantastic or- 
naments calculated to carry the imagination back to Grenada and Valencia." 
" I had heard," wrote Inglis, " that I should find in Galway some traces of its 
Spanish origin, but was not prepared to find so much to remind me of that land 
of romance. At every second step I saw something to recall it to my recollec- 
tion. I found the wide entries and broad stairs of Cadiz and Malaga ; the 
arched gateways, with the outer and inner railing, and court within, needing only 
the flower vases to emulate Seville." Some of those reminders of the merchant 
princes still exist, divided into tenements, and occupied by the poorest inhab- 
itants. Until recently the best example of these Spanish-Irish structures was the 
house of James Lynch Fitzstephen, the Mayor, or Warden of Galwa3^ in 1493, 
whose "more than Roman act of justice" in executing his own son Walter for 
murder, has been several times celebrated by pen and pencil. The most popu- 
lar form of the tragic romance is briefly, as follows : 

James Lynch Fitzstephen, one of the merchant princes, was Chief Magis- 
trate of Galway in 1493. On a recent visit to Spain he had brought back with 
him the son of a Spanish friend Gomez, who enjoying his hospitality became 
the intimate associate of his only son. This youth, Walter, in his twenty-first 

* The names of these families were Athy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, D'arcy, Ffont, Ffrench, Joyes, Kirwan, Lynch, 
Martin, Morris, Skerrett. Other names of settlers of this period are given by various authorities, as, Bevmingham, 
Blundel, Deane, Dillon, Lawless, and White. 



GAL WAY. 



t8i 




Wardett LyjicKs House, 1493. 



year, had qualities of person and mind 

which rendered him the object of much 

popular admiration ; while the more 

dangerous elements of his disposition 

were supposed to be restrained by his honorable devotion to a young lady of 

family and fortune. A splendid entertainment of betrothal took place at which 

young Walter fancied his intended bride gave too much regard to his Spanish 

friend. Accusing her of unfaithfulness, she disdained, to reply, and the lovers 



1 82 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

parted in anger. Misconstruing her indignant silence, and receiving what he 
deemed confirmation of his suspicion by seeing Gomez leave her house — where 
he had spent an evening at the invitation of her father — the frenzied Walter 
rushed on his friend, who, alarmed by the rage of a pursuer he did not recognize 
in the dark, fled toward the shore. Here Walter overtook the young Spaniard, 
plunged a poniard in his heart, and flung the body into the sea. The passionate 
youth was now horror-stricken, and fled to the recesses of a wood, Avhere he 
passed the night a prey to the fearful thoughts inspired by his lost happiness 
and terrible crime. His only consolation was in the firm resolution of surrender- 
ing himself to the law. Returning with this intent he found the town in com- 
motion — for the sea had thrown its dead to light — and his father, accompanied 
by the retinue of justice, abroad on horseback leading the search for the criminal 
who had outraged hospitality and the law of God. The venerable magistrate had 
no suspicion that his only son was the assassin of his friend and guest ; but when 
Walter proclaimed himself the murderer, a conflict of feeling seized the wretched 
father beyond the power of language to describe. He finally ordered the guard 
to secure him. Young Lynch was tried, found guilty, and sentenced to death by 
the judge, who was his father. On the day of the execution an effort was made 
by the relatives of the youth's mother — the Blakes — and a great concourse of 
armed people to rescue him. The Warden exhorted them to submit to the laws 
of their country, but finding his efforts fruitless to accomplish the ends of justice 
at the accustomed place and by the usual hands, he, by a desperate victory over 
parental feeling, resolved himself to perform the sacrifice which he had vowed 
to pay on its altar. Still retaining a hold of his unfortunate son, he mounted 
with him by a winding stair within the building that led to an arched window 
overlooking the street, which he saw filled with the populace. Here he secured 
the end of the rope, which had been previously fixed around the neck of his son, 
to an iron staple, which projected from the wall, and, after taking from him a last 
embrace, he launched him into eternity. 

The intrepid magistrate expected instant death from the fury of the popu- 
lace, but the people were so much overawed or confounded by the act, that they 
retired slowly and quietly to their dwellings. The innocent cause of this sad 
tragedy died soon after of grief, and the unhappy father of Walter Lynch se- 
cluded himself during the remainder of his life from all society. Lombard Street, 
in which his house recently existed, is still known as " Dead Man's Lane." In 
1524, a skull and cross-bones executed in black marble were inserted over the front 
door, with the motto, " Remember deathe, vaniti of vaniti, and all is but vaniti." 



GAL WAV. 



183 



Among the architectural relics of Galway is the Collegiate Church of St. 
Nicholas, which, though not imposing, is a venerable pile, having been built in 




Market of the Claddagh Fishermen. 

1320. The Warden, just alluded to, during his magistracy added the "choir at 
the west end," and " put painted glass in the windows." 

Galway was formed into a county by Elizabeth's lord deputy Sidney, in 1565, 
and got its name from the chief town, which was so called from the river, which 
derived its name from a woman who was drowned in it, named in Irish Gail- 
limh, pronounced Galliv, and anglicized Galway. In the struggle between Charles 
I. and the Parliament, the town held out against both, and neither Cromwell nor 
Ireton, after their successes in Ireland, attempted to reduce it. 
In 1652, it surrendered to Coote with an overwhelming parlia- 
mentary force, on condition " that their privileges should be 
guaranteed, native prisoners liberated without ransom, and a 
restoration of all captured property." In 1690 and '91, it was 
strongly garrisoned by James II. ; but in the latter year it was 
invested by De Ginkle after the victory at Aughrim, and surren- 
dered on favorable conditions and with "military honors." In 1798, on the 
arrival of the French under Humbert at Killala, to aid the national party, the 
merchants enabled the garrison and yeomanry of the town to join General Lake, 




Antique Claddagh 
Ring. 



i84 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

and they shared in the disgraceful retreat of the royalists known as the " Castle- 
bar races." 

On the south side of the town on the mouth of the river is the Claddagh, a 
large district inhabited by fishermen to the number of five thousand. Their 
Market-place is near one of the old gates of the town close by the remains of a 
fortified tower. The population of the Claddagh are peaceable and industrious, 
and have acquired and retained special usages and customs of their own. They 
are a race in themselves, seldom intermarrying with the towns-people. They 
are governed by their own laws administered by a king who is annually elected 
on the eve of St. John, which occasion is one of great hilarity and enjoyment. 
Although of late years it was said that his powers have decreased and that the 
King of the Claddagh is " no more than the Lord Mayor of Dublin," still that 
potentate is of very great importance and usefulness in his realm — deciding all 
litigated cases, his people never appealing to another or higher tribunal. Inclined 
to joviality ashore, the Claddagh men in putting out to sea " never suffer any 
species of malt liquor or spirits to form part of their store." They are expert in 
meeting the dangers of the deep, but will not go to sea on " a day of bad omen." 
The king at sea acts as admiral and flies a white flag. The marriage ring is an 
heir-loom passing from mother to the daughter first married. It is massive, 
frequently symbolically decorated with a crowned heart, supported by two 
hands. As a dowry the bride receives a boat, or share of a boat, according to 
the means of her parents. Although almost entirely consisting of humble cot- 
tages, the Claddagh also contains some remains of quaint edifices similar to those 
in the town. 

Of the modern buildings in Galway not much need be said. The Railway 
Hotel is noticeable ; and of the public buildings the Queen's College stands 
pre-eminent : it is a handsome structure of the Tudor Gothic style, built of gray 
mountain limestone, which, as Sir John Forbes observes, "sets off to so much 
advantage many of the recent public works and buildings in Ireland." It was 
designed by Mr. J. B. Keane the architect, and is constructed on the complete 
quadrangular plan, having four exterior and four interior fronts ; the interior 
quadrangle being 280 feet by 200. An elegant cupola flanked with towers adorns 
the principal front, looking toward the town, at each end of which there are also 
two smaller cupolas. The effect of the whole is very imposing. It contains 
many handsome apartments, and class-rooms which are commodious and well 
arranged. The examination hall is 66 feet by 45. The college was opened in 
1849. The number of students attending this college has been considerably less 



GAL WAY. 



i8s 



than at the colleges of Belfast or Cork, owing it is said to the scantier popula- 
tion of the district, and partly to the lesser means at the disposal of the parents. 
In one of the official reports. President Berwick remarks, "Colleges placed in 
populous and thriving localities are at once frequented by numerous students, 
who live in their own homes, and who are not obliged to incur the expense of 




Queen's College. 

traveling to, or residing in a distant neighborhood. The students of the Queen's 
College, unlike those of other institutions, must attend its lectures for at least 
two terms of each session — a period varying from five to six months. ... In 
the great majority of cases the young men frequenting the Galway College come 
from a distance, the town of Galway not as yet possessing such a population as 
would furnish a large number of students. Taking these circumstances into 
account, I do not hesitate to say that the Queen's College, Galway, has fully kept 



i86 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

pace with her sister institutions of Belfast and Cork." The majority of the 
students are Roman Catholics. 

At a short distance from the college there is a National (model) School for 
boys and girls. When Forbes visited it, he found of 104 boys in attendance, 11 
were Protestant ; and of 46 girls in attendance, 9 were Protestant. " An hour," 
he writes, " is set apart every Friday for religious instruction, on which occasion 
the minister of the Established Church and the Roman Catholic priest frequently 
both attend, each supervising the instruction of the children of their respective 
flocks." He further states "the system of instruction in both these schools 
seemed excellent, and the children showed great proficiency in their respective 
studies. All the children were tolerably neatly dressed, especially the girls, who 
were also — many of them at least — very good-looking." 

The bay of Galway is claimed to be the finest in Ireland ; and the town is 
most advantageously situated as a station for transatlantic communication be- 
tween America and Europe. It distinguished itself on the occasion of the inquiry 
instituted at the instance of the Treasury and the Admiralty in 1850, to ascertain 
the harbor in Ireland best suited for a transatlantic packet station. Among 
those who made the most powerful exertions to demonstrate the great superiority 
that Galway possessed over every other harbor whose pretensions were then can- 
vassed was the Rev. Peter Daly, to whom Galway is greatly indebted. But the 
inquiry in regard to selecting any of the competing Irish ports was, says Marmion, 
a perfect mockery, and the country was put to considerable expense, without 
its being ever intended at the time to remove the station farther from Liverpool 
than Holyhead. The evidence, however, that has been collected is valuable, 
and has tended to dispel much of the illusion and misrepresentation that pre- 
viously existed in respect to the western coast.* Of the bridges mentioned 
as connecting the eastern and western portions of the town, the West Bridge — 
still in excellent repair — is respectable for its antiquity, having been built in 1342, 
by one of the ever-prominent tribe of the Lynches — Edmond, the son of Thomas, 
" at his own expense." Looking over this venerable structure, which makes a 
suitable foreground bridging memories of the past with the present, we see Father 
Daly's chapel, which, in addition to its religious character, has become an object 
of interest for the reasons just indicated. There are noble views of the bay, 
backed by the hills of Clare on the opposite side, along the road leading west from 
Galway. In clear weather the isles of Arran are visible. The tourist should, by 

* See Marmion's Mariliiiu- Ports of Ireland, etc., p. 459. 



GALWAY. 187 

all means, visit these islands, which are not only wonderfully picturesque, but of 
the deepest interest from their geological features and the antiquities they con- 
tain. A few years since the Ethnological Section of the British Association, 
under the guidance of the late Sir William Wilde, examined them, and as the 
expedition consisted of seventy savans, including many whose learning and liter- 
ary labors entitle their proceedings to special consideration, we shall condense 
the account of the journalist of the expedition. The Arran Islands are situated 
at the entrance to Galway Bay and about thirty miles from that port. The party 
landed at Kilronan on the main isle — Inishmore ; and were surprised at the clean 
and comfortable appearance of the village, far exceeding indeed the evidences of 
prosperity on the western mainland. Nor did the cabins in the remoter parts 
bear less evidence to the industry of the inhabitants, who, living principally by 
fishing, yet wring from the almost naked rocks sufficient for the necessities of the 
island. The men, strong,,hardy islanders, with a manly, independent bearing, were 
comfortably dressed in a species of white flannel, perfectly clean, and wearing on 
their feet bright blue stockings and a kind of moccasin formed of seal or cow 
skin. The women, of the same type, roughened by toil and weather, clothed in 
the red' petticoat and shawl, with a blue kerchief over the head, gave color and 
character to the groups. 

Being nine miles long by about two broad, every part of Inishmore is accessi- 
ble on foot — albeit, the walking is of the most rugged description. The objects 
most singular, and said to be surpassed only by the older barbaric monuments of 
Greece, are the pagan military remains. The dates assigned to these are from 
500 A.c. to 100 A.c. ; in other words, they are more than 2,000 years old. They 
consist of four forts, two of which are circular, called Dun-Onagh and Dun- 
Oghill ; the latter the most perfect extant. They are built of loose stones, 
without mortar, the main ramparts varying in height from 16 to 25 feet, 
and having a thickness of about 15 feet, the ascending steps and the watch- 
towers on the summit being in some cases still discoverable ; the diameter of 
the structure is about 100 feet, but an outer wall of some solidity incloses a 
much larger space. The other two forts have taken advantage of promontories, 
two sides of which are protected by inaccessible cliffs washed by the Atlantic, and 
have thrown up ramparts of the like Cyclopean structure, in a semicircular form, 
to defend the approach from land. Of these, Dubh-Chathair is the oldest known, 
and Dun-Aengus the largest and most striking. Behind it the cliffs overhang- 
ing the sea are 300 feet in height. The inner and massive rampart incloses a 
depth of about 150 feet. Two walls at intervals increase the outer defenses, 



1 88 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

while beyond a chevmtx-dc-frise still remains, formed of the pointed stones so 
abundant on the spot, placed on end for some 50 yards in width, and which 
would certainly very much check the ardor of an impetuous attack. The appear- 
ance almost justifies the tradition that an army of invaders was here turned into 
stone. The whole defenses occupy about eight acres. 

Who built these massive works, and what may be their date, is matter of 
debate and speculation. That they are pre-Christian and pre-historic seems all 
that is certain. The primitive race of the Firbolgs, driven from the mainland, 
seem to have made a last stand here. The retiring wave of the early population, 
beaten further and further westward, must in these clifTs have fought their last 
struggle for existence before some hardier or more numerous invaders. 

Within this fort the section proceeded to discuss the objects before them. 
A platform of rock occupied the center, the members bivouacked on the grass 
around, while the natives, grouped upon the crumbling rampart, which formed a 
picturesque amphitheater, listened with wonder to the story of the stones on 
which they sat, and of the historic interest of which they had never dreamt. The 
Provost of Trinity College occupied the chair, and the meeting was in turn ad- 
dressed by all whose learning enabled them to impart information. Dr. Wilde 
took a prominent part in the discussion, which was admirably supported by Dr. 
Petrie, Dr. Graves, Dr. O'Donovan, Mr. Eugene Curry, Dr. Stokes, and many 
others. 

The ecclesiastical remains are also very numerous. They date from the 
fifth to the seventh century, and it is surprising to find such a number of these 
structures in a place where the population must have been at all times very 
limited. 

A different kind of ruin also exists in some of the castles built by Cromwell, 
the chief interest of which in this spot is drawn from their having been con- 
structed out of the more ancient ruins, and thus a round tower destroyed, and 
much that should have been preserved. In the middle island, Inishmaan, there 
are two forts, one circular, the other oval, of considerable size, and similar in 
structure to those on the main island. The cliffs on the Arran Islands also 
afford ample enjoyment to those who prefer the picturesque and beautiful to 
the learned and curious ; while the extraordinary formation of the rocks, spread 
out in vast sheets of bare and rifled limestone, like stone glaciers, excites the 
wonder of the geologist. 

According to tradition, St. Ibar visited Inishmore before the time of St. 
Patrick. St. Enda obtained a grant of the island and founded his monastic 




Vlh-VVs Al OALWAY AN J GORT. 



190 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

establishment on it a.d. 580. Not far from its site, says Ferguson, in TIic Irish 
befoi-e the Conquest, "stands to-day the smallest church in Ireland, that of St. 
Benignus. Among the ruins of the seven churches in the north part of Arran, 
at Kilbrecan, still exists the tomb of their founder St. Brecan. On a spherical 
black stone found in his grave, we read the inscription in Irish, ' Pray for Brecan 
the pilgrim.' Another tomb at this place is inscribed to the memor)^ of the 
' Seven Romans,' strangers from distant lands, seeking in this Irish Thebaid 
opportunity for indulgence in the contemplative life." 

In Petrie's account of his researches in Arran, many artistic sketches of the 
inhabitants may be found. In his sympathetic notice of Father Francis O'Fla- 
herty — a devoted priest, educated in Spain, and at the time for nearly half a cen- 
tury the spiritual director of the humble people in this remote region — he pre- 
sents a Sunday scene of great beauty which may happily complete our glimpse of 
the western isles. It was a calm bright day — scarce a cloud was to be seen over 
the tranquil dark blue sea : in the sunshine the gray cliffs lost their rugged char- 
acter. The religious ceremonies were over, but the people remained dispersed 
among the rocks in a variety of picturesque groups, bright as nature in costumes 
and appearance. " In one place a number of men in youthful prime were drawn 
together in sober converse ; in another, the old people sat silent and contempla- 
tive. Here, too, might be seen groups of young and unmarried women, with 
their hair tied up into graceful ringlets, and their cloaks, carelessly disposed into 
picturesque draperies, while their attitudes, some lying in each other's laps, and 
some with their arms about each other's necks or waists, bespoke the presence of 
youthful affection and innocent simplicity. 

" This picture was equally striking and characteristic ; for the coloring of the 
dresses of the peasantry was such as the painters of the Roman School have 
always loved. Positive, rich and varied, but not gay or gaudy. Thus the deep 
red and blue tints of the female costumes were relieved by the azure dresses of 
the men ; and these strong colors, contrasted by the gray tones of the surround- 
ing rocks, received an additional effect of richness and splendor. Had the scen- 
ery of this picture been that of a river bank in a sylvan valley, instead of a wild 
rocky shore in the Atlantic, the subject would have been truly Arcadian ; as it 
was, however, it might be considered more novel, and scarcely less striking or 
delightful." 

From Inishmore (or Arranmore as it is also called) on a clear day, the natives 
fancy they can see far in the west the famous Hy-Brasail, or enchanted island, 
represented as a paradise. The belief in it is not confined to Arran. The 



GALJVAY. 



191 



dwellers on the western coast line of Ireland from Malin Head to Cape Clear, 
believe in the existence of an extensive and beautiful island in the western 



" On the ocean that hollows the rocks where ye dwell, 
The shadowy land has appeared, as they tell : 
Men thought it a region of sunshine and rest. 
And they called it Hy-Brasail, the isle of the blest ; 
From year unto year, on the ocean's blue rim, 
The beautiful specter showed lovely and dim ; 
The golden clouds curtained the deep where it lay. 
And it looked like an Eden away, far away.'' 

Gerald Griffin — Hy-Brasail. 

It was in search of this region of delight and fertility that St. Brendan made 
his celebrated voyage. 

An examination of the Arran Islands, with the view of the mainland scenery 
from the sea — especially if a cruise toward Roundstone is taken, will greatly 
add to the 
expectations 
excited by 
the hope or 
promise of a 
grand excur- 
sion in the 
wilds of 
Connemara, 
which of 
course must 
be in the 



mind's eye of any sensible tourist to the west 
of Ireland. 

In planning an expedition to Connemara and the 
western Highlands the tourist frequently takes his de- 
parture from Galway up the river to Lough Corrib, Lncgh inagh. 
over the lake to Cong, and thence westward to Maam ; but as Cong is in 
Mayo, and worth more than a casual notice, and as our purpose at present is to 
stay within the County of Galway, and view the glories of Connemara and 
Joyce's Country — leaving the antiquities of Cong and the Highlands of Mayo 
for future enjoyment — we will cross the Gallive River and take the route, in a 




192 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



northwesterly direction, to Oughterard. Passing the jalantations of the demesne 
of Woodstock and the small lough of Ballycuirke, we reach MoycuUen, where 
branch roads to left and right respectively lead to Galway Bay and Lough Cor- 
rib. Two miles farther Ross Lake is passed on the right, and the little lake 
Naneevin, on the left ; and three miles beyond, on an inlet of Lough Corrib, are 
the ruins of Aughnanure Castle, the fortress of the " ferocious O'Flaherties," the 
dread of the early tribes of Galway. Although but a ruin, it will sufficiently con- 
vey to the curious a suggestive impression of the habits and domestic usages of 
an Irish chief of superior rank. The house, a strong and lofty tower, stands in 





^r- ■FT^^aCMfe^^-S:-' 



Twelve Pin Mountains and Lake of Kylemore. 

an ample court-yard surrounded by outworks — accessible only by a drawbridge 
at the gateway tower. The river, Avhich communicates with the lake, washes the 
walls and forms a safe harbor within them. The ample windows of a spacious 
banqueting-hall display elegance of design and execution. Cellars, bake-houses, 
and quarters for his followers are visible ; and an ancient manuscript in Trinity 
College enumerates the more important of the retinue attending on the chief — 
embracing — his physician, chief of horse, standard-bearer, his brehons, or judges, 
his olave in genealogy and poetry, his keeper of the black bell of St. Patrick, 
master of the revels, keeper of his bees, collector of revenue, and other attend- 
ants " on ordinary sittings." A few years ago a solitary yew stood, perhajos 



GALWAY. 



193 




Ov£r Lough Inagh. 

it yet stands, beside the ruins of the castle, growing out of a ledge of solid 
limestone. Doctor Petrie was of opinion that it was more than a thousand 
years old when he saw it. It is, says a writer twenty years ago, an "interesting 
13 



194 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

relic of a remote era, and must have supplied the Irish archers with tough bows 
to slay the wolf and red deer long before the foot of the Anglo-Norman invader 
had touched the shores of Ireland." Oughterard is next reached. What Inglis 
calls " one of the most limpid streams in the world," dances through it. Just 
above the village, there is a succession of rapids — almost cascades — over the 
shelving limestone which forms the river bed ; and on a beautiful green bank at 
the foot of them is the cottage known as Martin's Gate-house. It was not 
inaptly called, for the road from this spot passes through what formed the great 
Martin estate to the residence of the proprietor at Ballinahinch some thirty miles 
distant. 

This region, which within the memory of man was almost a terra incognita, 
or associated only in the mind with all that was barren and uncultivated, is one 
of the most attractive in Ireland ; possessing features which in the opinion of 
some render its scenery superior to that of Killarhey. It is ribbed by remark- 
able mountains and dotted by numberless lakes ; and receives its name, not 
from its internal characteristics, but from its external coast formation on the 
Atlantic — which is indented by many bays and estuaries far into the land ; 
bringing splendid sea and coast ranges in view from the hilltops, at the same 
time that hundreds of lakes are also visible. It is therefore poetically called 
Ctiann-na-marra — the bays of the sea ; and all therein, estuaries and lakes, moors 
and the mountains, are the delight of the knight of the rod and the gun. 

From Oughterard — a prettily situated and neatly sylvan village — the road 
skirts loughs Bofin and Arderry to Butler's Lodge, where the road diverges to 
Maam, less than five miles distant — a grand center from which " to do " the 
mountains, if you do not mean to go round the Twelve Pins by Clifden. Con- 
tinuing the route chosen, we have a view of Lough Shindella with its wooded 
islands ; pay a passing courtesy to the Half-Way House, a mountain hotel close 
to Lough Oorid, and Mount Oorid (1,178 feet high), and after some seven miles 
of mountain and lake scenery reach The Recess, on the shores of Glendalough. 
Here we well may pause, for days if we will, to contemplate the glorious scenes 
surrounding us on all sides. Some of the grandest scenery to be found in all the 
western Highlands here inspire our pedestrian energy and reward our love for 
the beauties of nature. Loughs Inagh, three miles long, Derryclare and Ballina- 
hinch, each two and a half miles, and Glendalough, a mile and a half, are all 
grouped together, with the Twelve Pins of Bennabola, which present a prominent 
and unvarying background as the lakes are separately viewed. Indeed the com- 
binations are endless in which these romantic lakes appear, with their mountain- 



GAL WAY. 195 

ous background, and the torrents of the hillsides, precipitately tracing their 
shining courses from the surrounding summits to the bosom of the waters. The 
variety and beauty — to use the trite but truthful phrase of the guide-book — 
" can only be realized when actually seen." To the north of The Recess is the 
valley of Lough Inagh, with the hill of Lisoughter (1,314 feet) to the right, and 
Derryclare, one of the Pins (2,220 feet), on the left. The views from the summits 
of Lisoughter, Derryclare, or Coolnacartan hill are very fine. The ascent of the 
first named is highly recommended on account of the extensive views to be 
obtained from its summit, embracing all the characteristics of the Connemara 
scenery. The author of A Run throtigh the West of Ireland, taking one of his 
points of departure from the Recess Hotel — charmingly situated under the lofty 
Derryclare, with a small grass lawn in front, shrubs dotting the verdant turf, 
and forming a leafy screen between it and the road, which runs between the lawn 
and the lake — ascended Derryclare, having as guide a fine intelligent little girl, 
and her brother, "a hardy little mountaineer of six years old." He describes the 
developing effect as he clomb the mountain as increasing in beauty and extent. 
Beneath, basking in the gleam of the setting sun, lay the lakes of Derryclare and 
Glendalough. From the opposite side of the glen rose Lisoughter ; beyond, the 
high peak of Atherry ; with the conical head of Cashel in the distance. Sitting 
amid the blossoming heather and thoroughly enjoying the lovely scene, as well as 
recalling the cleanly comfort of the inn below, he felt the full force of Harriet 
Martineau's estimate of the wonderful region, and its accommodations. Miss 
Martineau had made the trip prejudiced against Connemara as a barbarous dis- 
trict without accommodations — or such only as were uncomfortable and unclean. 
Her remarks therefore " toned home," as Justinus Kerner would say, to the 
experience and appreciation of our friend : 

" There are few things in the world," says Miss Martineau, "more delightful 
than a drive at sunset in a bright autumn evening among the mountains and 
lakes of Connemara. A friend of ours describes the air of his favorite place by 
saying it is like breathing champagne. It has the best qualities of the sea and 
land breeze at once. • We are here at the end of the earth, to all appearance, for 
the land Is as a fringe, and the water running in everywhere between its streaks. 
There are salt waters and fresh ; bays, lakes, rivers, dashing torrents, mirror-like 
pools, a salmon-leap here, an inlet for shell-fish there, and Ballinahinch Lough, 
with its little Island, where ' Dick Martin,' immortalized in the song, ' If I had a 
donkey what wouldn't go,' used to imprison people who were guilty of cruelty to 
animals. 



196 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

" Standing in grandeur, towering above the lake, are the Bennabola or 
Twelve Pins, with the sun playing around their solemn heads ; while the purple 
heather is here and there enlivened by the red cloak of the peasant. What trip 
could be more attractive to the lover of scenery ? What rest or change more 
complete to the overworked and the weary of our great city ? Moreover, just 
now, when Ireland is obtaining so much consideration, what more apropos than 
an excursion to Connemara ? The writer of these lines was both pleased and 
surprised to find so much comfort and cleanliness where she had been led to ex- 
pect the reverse. She had been warned by a timorous friend not to venture into 
such wild and uncouth regions, where dirt was the principal feature of the inns 
and places of resort; but not deterred by the terrifying and repulsive picture 
which was drawn, she still determined to go. Not having any fancy for swallow- 
ing before the proper time the peck of dirt which we are told we must all con- 
sume during our lives, she carried every convenience, such as sheets, etc., in her 
carpet-bag, and on arriving at any place of rest she immediately turned down the 
beds, pried into the corners of the rooms, and, in fact, acted the part of a sani- 
tary commissioner. Be it told, however, to the justification of beautiful Conne- 
mara, that not once did she disturb her sheets and et ceteras from their repose at 
the bottom of her carpet-bag. 

" And how the party were repaid for their venture into those wild places, by 
the kindness and welcome they received everywhere ! The people seemed so 
pleased to see them ! I must recount as a proof of this an episode during our 
trip. At a farm-house where we slept for a couple of nights, at the foot of Cool- 
nacartan, one of the very highest of the mountains, we had to stay in-doors the 
whole of one' day on account of the rain, and the farmer's wife sent twelve miles 
for a loaf of baker's bread, thinking, but erroneously, that we should prefer it 
to her griddle-cake, which latter we asked to have, and found delicious with the 
adjunct of the famed Connemara butter. For it is worth going there if only to 
taste the butter, even if you come away without adding a white trout to your 
meal. The white trout ! what praises can convey a notion of their amiability ? 
They let you catch them, grill them, and eat them ! 

" On the day after the rain we made an excursion to Lough Derryclare and to 
Lough Inagh, where we fished to our hearts' content, and where we caught forty 
white trout, none under six pounds,' and also sazu several leap and play in the 
sunlight. A glorious souvenir. The following anecdote will show the kindness 
of the people. Just before we started for the boat, I overheard the farmer and 
our guide deploring the state of the road. ' What will the poor lady do when 






VIEW FROM COOLNACARTAN HILL.- 



198 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

she comes to the bog? the creature will be up to her knees in the wet!' You 
may imagine my dismay, and how zealously I obeyed the farmer when he begged 
me ' to follow him, and that he would pick out the best way for me.' But judge 
of my surprise, indeed I might say emotion, when we came to the boggy part 
just above the lake, to see that the kind Mr. Joyce had sent his man on before 
us, who was actually laying down sods of turf for me to pass over to the boat ! I 
turned in amazement at such unostentatious thoughtful kindness, saying, ' Oh ! 
how very kind of you, Mr. Joyce.' ' Sure, ma'am, we ought to make much of you, 
we see you so seldom,' was his answer. I do not think that Queen Elizabeth 
felt more gratified in walking over Raleigh's mantle." 

As the ascent to the Derryclare summit discloses loughs Derryclare and Glen- 
dalough, the ascent of Lisoughter discloses to view beneath you Lough Derry- 
clare, and what is deemed one of the most beautiful of the lakes — the lovely and 
lonely Inagh. Standing on this summit, the Maam Turk range of mountains towers 
behind, and before us — with the lakes just mentioned in the intermediate vale — 
the rugged pinnacles of Bennabola stand out against the sky. As Connemara 
becomes more known, the valley of Inagh — or Glen Inagh as it is perhaps less 
correctly called — is becoming one of the great places of attraction to tourists : and 
an account of a pedestrian trip to it across the mountains, recently made by an 
enthusiastic lover of the picturesque, Avill give a suggestive idea of the general 
nature of the mountains and glens of the locality. Leaving the high road to 
Clifden — the one we are pursuing — he struck out toward the marble quarries of 
Bar-an-oran. Having told the quarrymen, he writes — for we prefer to let him 
tell his own experiences — " that I was determined to climb the heights of Benna- 
bola, and if possible make my way to Glen Inagh, they, in vain, endeavored to 
dissuade me from the attempt. The clouds still clung to the sides of the moun- 
tains, and if I was caught by a fog among the Twelve Pins, I had a poor chance 
of ever making my way back, besides running the risk of being clifted — but I, 
heedless of the warning, merely inquired which of the maams (or mountain 
passes) before me led to Glen Inagh, and without waiting to assure myself which 
was pointed out in reply, bounded over the pathless bog, from one tussock to 
another, and soon gained the acclivity of the Twelve Pins. As I ascended the 
side of the mountain the solitude was first pleasing, then romantic, then solemn. 
The clouds still enveloped the peaks above ; there was not a breath of wind to 
disturb their fleecy masses ; there was no track left by any living thing upon the 
vast moorland, and I soon discovered that I had quite forgotten the way that 
was pointed out to me as leading to Glen Inagh. Three or four of the mountain 



GALWAY. ■ 199 

passes presented themselves to me, but they had changed their relative positions, 
and for the life of me, I could not say which of them I was to take. 

" Following in my ascent the dry bed of a torrent which presented a succes- 
sion of wild and picturesque spots (the banks being sometimes stee^D, and the rich 
herbage on the alluvial soil collected at other points, contrasting with the bar- 
renness of the surrounding wilderness), I at length approached one of the maams, 
but whether the one indicated by the quarrymen or not, remained to be seen. I 
promised myself a glorious view of Glen Inagh and its lake of wooded islands, 
so much praised by Inglis and by every one who had penetrated to its recess. 
The landscape that would be thus mapped out below me, and seen from the 
clouds through the hazy atmosphere, must have an enchanting effect. Another 
effort, and I should be rewarded for all my toil. 

" The effort was made and the niaam was gained, but the prospect was very 
different from what I had anticipated. I found myself in a horrible stony desert. It 
was a spot bared and scarred by rain and tempest since the creation ; the inhospit- 
able rocks were covered with dark gelatinous lichens, or were bleached and riven 
by the blasts of an everlasting winter. The air was moist and chilly, and there was 
no longer the dead calm which I had felt on the side of the mountain, but a smart 
breeze from the southwest wafted the clouds quickly past, and I was every moment 
enveloped in their masses, and almost suffocated by their sulphurous smell. H igher 
still rose the rocky peaks of the mountain, but fatigue as well as the chiUing influ- 
ence of that gloomy solitude deprived me of any wish to climb higher for that time. 

" On the other hand, looking back from the maam, which I had entered, the 
view was magnificent. As each cloud passed away, the vast plain of Connemara, 
intersected by innumerable loughs and streams, and bounded in the distance by 
the ocean, was seen spread out below. The countless islands, the deeply-indented 
coast, the solitary hill of Doon, toward Slyne Head in the west, and that of 
Urrisbeg in the south, all claimed attention ; but after enjoying the prospect for 
awhile, I recollected that I had yet to obtain the promised view of Glen Inagh, 
if not to make good my way to that far-famed valley. I therefore selected 
another of the openings among the Peaks of the Twelve-Pins which surrounded 
me, and felt assured it would answer the desired purpose. 

"At length, after enormous fatigue, I reached a point which revealed a picture 
that at once obliterated every sense of weariness and danger. The valley of 
Glen Inagh lay at my feet, deep embosomed among mountains, the dark and 
barren sides ot which were furrowed with ravines and beds of torrents ; while 
below were some few patches of green ; and, at the base of the mountain to the 



200 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

right, lay the silvery lake, with two small islets covered with wood. How tran- 
quilly its waters slept ! How beautiful were those two tufts of foliage in the 
midst of so much barrenness ! How lovely and grand was the scene ! How soft 
the tint spread over the valley by the veil of azure gauze which seemed to hang 
between ! How much loveliness surrounded by such sublimity ! Lough Inagh, 
I earned this first glimpse of thy beauty well, but I felt myself repaid. 

" Looking from the brow of Ben-scalpa-diva (the mountain of black chasms), 
where I then stood, it was some time before I could discover a cabin in the glen 
below. I discovered one, however, and toward it the cravings of hunger prompted 
me to direct my course. The view around me, as seen from the cabin door, was 
majestic in the extreme. On the right, rose the vast and gloomy masses of the 
Twelve Pins, from which I had just escaped — Ben-scalpa-diva, already mentioned, 
and Ben-cullagh, and Ben-bawn, and Ben-cor — and among their dark recesses 
were Glen-cuileann, or the ravine of the holly tree, and that of Soalp-an-columb, 
or the pigeons' cavern, where outlaws often found a safe retreat in bygone times. 
On the opposite side of the valley Ben-y-breccan reared its gigantic head above 
a stratum of white cloud, like a rocky island belonging to some other world ; and 
extending from it easterly were the high ridges of Maam Turk and Maam Ean, 
with their intervening summits, and beyond these Ben-an-cnoe — all composing 
the lofty chain of mountains which separates Connemara from Joyce Country. 
In front, the valley was closed by the bold outline of Cnoc-mor-y-cartan, the 
big hill by the forge, from \cnoc, hill, mor, big, and cearda, a forge, also called 
Coolnacartan,] * whose dark sides were reflected in the waters of Lough Inagh, 
and its sister lake of Derryclare ; and behind me, to the west, a large mass of 
the Bennabola group shut out the sun's rays long before the orb of day sunk 
into the Atlantic." 

* Cnoc and Ben. These words, or their significations, are sometimes confounded. Cnoc signifies a hill ; its most 
common anglicized form is Knock, in which the /; is usually silent ; but in the original, tlie first c, which the k represents, was 
sounded cnoc, pronounced Kiinnuck, the first u very short. It forms the prefix or suffix of many names of places in Ireland, 
as Castle knock, Castle hill, near Dublin ; Knockshegowna, the hill of the fairy Oonagh in Lower Ormond, the fabled 
residence of Una, the fairy-queen of Spenser ; Knock -layd {cnoc-leithia), the hill of breadth — /. e., the broad hill in An- 
trim (pp. 134—137), where Ossian is buried (see sketch on p. 161). Beann (ban), genitive and plural lieanna, signifies 
a horn, a gable, a peak or pointed hill, often applied to any steep hill; cognate with the Latin ^/««a. It is commonly 
anglicized ben or bin ; and although extensively used in Irish names of places, is not applied to great mountains so much 
as it is in Scotland, as Ben Lomond, Ben Nevis, etc. The Twelve Pins derive their name from the same word ; Pitts 
being a modification oi Bens. "They are commonly called ' The Twelve Pins of Bunnabeola,' in which the word beann 
occurs twice ; for Bunnabeola is Beanna-Beola, the peaks of Beola. This Beola, who was probably an old Firbolg 
chieftain, is still vividly remembered in tradition ; and a remarkable person he must have been, for the place of his in- 
terment is also commemorated, namely Toombeola, Beola's tumulus, which is a townland south of the Twelve Pins." 
See Joyce's Origin and History of Irish Names of Places. 



GAL WAY. 





The beautiful Glen Inagh, 
between the Twelve Pins 
and Maam Turk, extends 
from Glendalough to Toor- 
eenacoona Bridge, a distance 
of seven miles — of rare 
scenic variety ; the constant 
changes of light and shade, 
mist and cloud, on the 
Bennabola Mountains pro- 
ducing a striking — and it 
might be said, kaleidoscopic 
series of effects. There is 



^3s^ 




Lough De?ryclare and Maam Tm k Mountain. 



a new road from the Recess through Glen Inagh which reaches Kylemore Lake 
— -ten miles distant. At the entrance of the vale of Inagh is the remarkable hill 
of Coolnacartan. A leading writer strongly advocates the view from this hill as 
magnificent, presenting the "most striking features of the Connemara Country." 



202 PICTC'RItSQUJi: IRELAND. 

All the tourists who Ikwo written on the subject rival each other in the energy 
with which they extol special views^which speaks well for the general resources 
of the region. From Coolnacartan the view is all that is claimed for it. Glens 
and mountains extend on every side as far as the eye can reach ; and wrapped 
in their solitudes may be seen the beautilul links of lakes which extend from 
Oughterard to Ballinahinch. Amongst the loveliest of these sheets of water 
is Garromin, or Glendalough, south of the Recess. Here it was that the late 
Dean Malion, with a tlelightful appreciation of the united pleasures of beauty 
and solitude, built his romantic retreat. It is this poetically selected spot 
and edifice which, on its transformation into a comfortable mountain inn, 
has been so long a favorite with travelers, as well for the fishing facilities of 
the neighborhood as for the unrivaled mountain and lake scenery it com- 
mands. Thirty-five years ago Thackeray went over this road and through 
the heart of Connemara, on a visit to Mr. Martin, then representing the county 
in Parliament, and he was not the least enthusiastic of its admirers. " The Clif- 
den car," he wrote, in The Irish Sketch Book, "which carries the Dublin letters 
into the heart of Connemara, conducts the passenger over one of the most wild 
and beautiful districts that it is ever the fortune of a traveler to examine ; and I 
could not help thinking, as we passed through it, at how much pains and expense 
honest English cockneys are, to go and look after natural beauties far inferior, 
in countries which, though more distant, are not a whit more strange than this 
one. No doubt, ere long, when people know how easy the task is, the rush of 
London tourism will come this way ; and I shall be very happy if these pages 
shall be able to awaken in one bosom, beating in Tooley Street or the Temple, 
the desire to travel toward Ireland." On the first part of the journey from Gal- 
way town in the more thickly populated districts, he noticed that as they passed 
the residences of gentlemen, the mail carman, with a warning cry, Hung a bag of 
letters. " I saw," said he, " a little party looking at one which lay there in the 
road, crying Come, take me ! but nobody cares to steal a bag of letters in this 
country, I suppose, and the carman drove on without any alarm." The troops 
of red-petticoated peasantry, and the white chapels standing out against the 
green bare surroundings on the low country ; "the court-yards blackened with a 
swarm of cloaks," and in which the service, he said, " seemed to continue on the 
part of the people all day" on Sunday, caught his observant eye and enlisted the 
duty of his suggestive pen. Getting into " the famous district of Connemara, so 
celebrated in Irish stories, so mj'sterious to the London tourist," he consulted his 
guide-book ; but, with the natural impatience of an artistic feeling in presence of 



GALWAY. 



203 



scenes which defy mere verbal expression in the dry formula of a guide-maker, 
says : " But the best guide-book that ever was written cannot set the view before 
the mind's eye of the reader ; and I won't attempt to pile up big words in place of 
these wild mountains, over which the clouds as they passed, or the sunshine as it 
went and came, cast every variety of tint, light, and shadow ; nor can it be expected 
that long, level sentences, however smooth and shining, can be made to pass as 
representatives of those calm lakes by which we took our way. All one can do 
is to lay down the pen and ruminate, and cry ' Beautiful ! ' once more ; and to the 
reader say, ' Come and see.' Wild and wide as the prospect around us is, it has 
somehow a kindly, friendly look, differing in this from the fierce loneliness of 




some similar scenes in Wales that I have viewed." This latter observation at once 
recalls a somewhat similar remark of Charlotte Elizabeth in her Letters from 
Ireland, which not only illustrates the expressed feeling of Thackeray, but ex- 
plains it in a tender, and even dramatic way. "As in the music of the Irish, and 
in their national character, so is it in the natural scenery of their country. Some 
unexpected tract of the softest beauty continually steals upon you in the midst of 
what is dark, stern, and wild ; something of the latter breaks in, where seemingly 
it has no business, just to remind you that what you are contemplating is Irish." 
The pedestrian excursion up Glen Inagh may be advantageously continued 
northward, and the ascent made of Letterbrecan, from which, in the words of one 
who achieved the summit, " one of the finest views in Connemara is to be ob- 
tained:" a distinction which is enthusiastically claimed for several of the sum- 
mits already alluded to by earnest and discriminating tourists ; but as Thackeray 
said of the beauties of Killarney — the last seen, whichever it was, appeared to be 
the most beautiful. If the power of discrimination comparatively fails in 4he 
midst of so much that appeals to the love of the sublime and beautiful in natural 
scenery, the reasons may at least be partially indicated for the preferences of one 



204 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

mountain prospect over another. Thus the advocate for Letterbrecan will tell 
you that from its summit are visible Lough Inagh, Kj'lemore Lough, Lough 
Fee, the greater and lesser Killery, and several other and smaller loughs and 
pools. Looking in a southerly direction, Maam Mountains are on the left, the 
ubiquitous Bennabola on the right, and between them, in the far distance be- 
yond Kilkieran Bay, the ocean that surges round the Bannocks and the Arran 
Islands. The descent of Letterbrecan can be made so as to reach the Killeries. 

Returning to Recess, an excursion may be made south of it to Cashel Hill, 
1,027 feet high, some five miles distant: and the ascent will undoubtedly more 
than repay any delay caused in the projected excursion to Clifden. The fact is, 
as the Halls said years ago, one cannot hasten in this region, for it is full of 
interest, and " wonders that will keep the mind and eye gratified and excited, 
during a tour that certainly cannot find its parallel in the United Kingdom ; not 
alone in its amount of natural beauties, or in the scenery that for wild grandeur 
surpasses the imagination ; the country is almost entirely one vast collection of 
raw material, languishing for the aid of man to develop its wealth, and render it 
available for the services of human kind." Many improvements have taken place 
since this was written, but nothing commensurate to the resources which suggest 
them. 

And here we must say that Mr. Fraser, whose continually enlarged Handbook 
is the work of a lifetime, and whose observations on every line of travel are not 
the results of a search of the picturesque alone — to which the attention of the 
artistic tourist is naturally confined — takes issue with the remarks of foreign 
writers on the advantages of Connemara as a field for the profitable investment 
of capital. He deems them superficial, and, doubtless, a refiection on the enter- 
prise or capability of the natives. " Its spreading plains, smiling valleys, lonely 
vales, sheltered glens, sunny slopes, charming hills, and majestic mountains, have 
all been lauded, not only for their extrinsic beauty, but for their intrinsic worth 
in an agricultural point of view. They have been held up as tracts teeming with 
fertility ; the plains, valleys, and vales, like the virgin soils of the American Con- 
tinent, only requiring the husbandman to plow the surface, sow the seed, and 
ingather the harvest ; and the more elevated lands demanding only the presence 
of the herdsmen to watch the flocks and tend the cattle ' on a thousand hills.' 
These writers are evidently not aware," says Mr. Fraser, " that a large propor- 
tion of the surface of what appeared to them, from the road, in their hurried 
midsummer or autumnal tours, so capable of improvement, is covered with such 
a superincumbent mass of sheer peat, as to render it, in its present state, wholly 



2o6 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

unfit for the growth of nutritious herbage ; — that against the reclamation of the 
greater part of the higher lands, even for depasturing the more hardy breeds of 
cattle and sheep, 'all nature cries aloud,' and that before even the lower tracts 
could be rendered productive, the fee-simple of good land must be expended." 
The writer admits, however, that " there are thousands of acres remuneratively 
reclaimable in the vast tracts which are spread around, as well as along the 
shores of the deeply penetrating sea-bays, but these are seldom visited except by 
the agricultural tourist." 

Speaking of the beauty of the lakes passed on the road from Oughterard to 
Recess, he further admits that " the susceptibility of their bleak and boggy shores 
of ornamental improvement," in connection with the character of the scenery 
around, " will strike the lover of nature's beauties ; while the agriculturist will 
discover many tracts of remuneratively improvable ground, which lie hid from 
the unpracticed eye." 

But to resume the picturesque from this not altogether needless digression 
on the practical : — the ascent of Cashel Hill, on which the assistance of a guide 
will be found useful in consequence of the boggy nature of a portion of the route, 
presents, in addition to magnificent views of mountains, glens, rivers, and loughs, 
embracing nearly all of the southern part of Connemara, fine prospects of the 
coast line and sea at Bertraghboy Bay. 

The Twelve Pins — though not as lofty as the Reeks or Mangerton in Kerry, 
Lugnaquilla in Wicklow, Kippure on the borders of Dublin, or other mountains 
we have noticed — in their compact association and form are certainly the most 
remarkable and beautiful group in Ireland. They form the glory of Connemara. 
Lying compactly together, their bases occupy an area of forty-two square miles, 
while their cones vary in height from 1,700 to nearly 2,400 feet. One-third of the 
circumference of the base is washed by the waters of Loughs Derryclare, Inagh, 
Ballinahinch, and Kylemore, into which numberless rivulets flow, having enlivened 
and made beautiful thousands of ravines on their course downward. Forbes 
thought nothing could exceed the picturesque beauty of these mountains, vary- 
ing in their relative positions to one another at every half mile of the road, yet 
never losing the peculiar charm which rivets the eye upon them. The bare 
peaks of quartz, now shining in the sunlight with the aerial brilliancy character- 
istic of their formation, and now standing sharply in shadow against the sky, 
form a strange and splendid coterie of cloud-pointing cones — "a stupendous 
group of Titans." At suitable distance these conical summits are seen under 
many varieties of form, and in the sketches of the beautiful lakes in the region 



GAL WA Y. 



207 



they are ever jDresent but never the same. At some points, as on the road from 
Kylemore to the Killery, they seem marshaled out in parallel array ; at other 
points they appear grouped and isolated in the most pleasing and fantastic forms 
■ — here wreathed in mist, there partially displayed — sometimes illumined by the 
rays of the slanting sun, at other times invested in the most somber hues ; in 
short, ever changing in appearance with every varying modification of light and 




Glen 



Connemara. 



shade, of air and sky, of proximity and distance. Although the range shows 
many more than twelve peaks it is easy to distinguish the twelve summits of su- 
perior altitude and form which confer its title. Roderick O' Flaherty, the author 
of Ogygia, who wrote two centuries ago, in \{\s Account of H-Iar Connatight, says : 
" These mountains are called by mariners the Twelve Stakes, being the first land 
they discern as they come from the main. Bendowglass is the highest, two miles 



2o8 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

high, and hath standing water on the top, wherein they say if any washeth his 
head he becomes hoarse," which is deemed rather a natural consequence of a severe 
cold in the head. The name of Bennabola, the peaks of Bola, is derived from 
Beola, who is variously referred to as a Firbolg chief, a giant, and a saint. The 
principal summits are those of Bencor, 2,336 feet in height ; Benbaun, 2,305 ; Ben- 
cullaghduff, 2,290; Derryclare, 2,220; Bengower, 2,184 ; Benlettery, 1,904. While 
the summits are bare, occasional patches of cultivated land streak the tall brown 
sides, which are otherwise and brilliantly diversified by the tints of innumerable 
varieties of heaths and lichens. What the arbutus is to Killarney, the heath is to 
Connemara, and in the absence of any depth or breadth of foliage, the eye rests 
most naturally on a substitute so pleasing — for its streaks are of pale pink, rich 
brown, or glowing purple, mixed with the tender green of mountain grasses, and oc- 
casionally alternating with the black stripes of up-lying bogs, giving a combination 
of colors that, seen under the clarifying influence of western skies, is almost magi- 
cal. Connemara is remarkable for the variety of flowers and rare plants which 
grow wild upon its mountains, and Mr. Inglis and other travelers give special 
lists of them.* The glens and ravines through the Twelve Pins are innumera- 
ble, so to speak, but the solid ranks of the " Titans" are broken by four principal 
glens — each having its torrent, and three of them reposeful lakes. Glen Hogan, 
with the lower lake of Ballinahinch, looks southward on Roundstone and Ber- 
traghboy Bay; Glen I nagh, cradling its black waters under the tremendous preci- 
pice of Maam, — down which the stream that feeds Lough Inagh falls twelve 
hundred feet over a naked perpendicular precipice, and opens the gorge of its 
grand prison upon the east : Kylemore yawns westward and northward on Ren- 
vyle ; and on the west and south the ravine whose torrent falls in a series of cas- 
cades by Clifden glares upon the Atlantic. 

* Our fair readers, as well as others who appreciate the color-effect of vegetation where trees are largely wanting to 
give variety to scenery, may be interested in this subject. We therefore give it a brief note condensed from Doctor Mackay, 
the distinguished botanist : — The wild district of Connemara furnishes a considerable number of rare and interest- 
ing plants, the more remarkable of which are the following: Ihe. Eiica mediterratiea — Mediterranean heath, ^nVn 
mackaitma and Menzicsia palifolia, or Irish heath, which, as well as the beautiful variety with white flowers, are now gen- 
eral favorites in garden collections ; the curious Erica septangulare , which also grows in the Island of Skye, Scotland, is 
here seen in almost every lake ; the London pride, Saxifraga timbrosa, and Saxifraga oppositifolia, are found in abundance 
in the mountains, the delicate and beautiful Adiantum capilliis-veneris or true maiden-hair fern near Roundstone, and in 
profusion on the Isles of Arran ; PimpineUa magna, the beautifully pink-streaked water pimpernel, and Silene anglica. 
In a botanical tour through Connemara in 1838 the following plants were added to the flowers of that district : Carex 
filiformis, Carex limosa, and Orohanche rubra ; the two former found in boggy ground, the latter on a limestone hill op- 
posite, it being hitherto only found on trap rocks, near Belfast and Magilligan. It differs also from the other species 
of the genus Orobaiuhe indigenous to Ireland, in not being parasitical. " Orobanchc rubra does not appear to derive its 
nourishment from any living plant, but is constantly found growing in the crevices of rocks." 






I I 




'ulll'j l'.|,i|l 



'I'Vr 'N»'|i|'^p 



(!' -I ] 




2IO PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

About four miles from Glendalough or Recess, the road turns to the left by 
a little chapel to Roundstone, and we cross the Owenmore or Ballinahinch River 
which carries the waters of the lakes to the head of Bertragboy Bay. We also 
cross the Glencoaghan River, which takes its rise in Bennabola. Under the 
base of two of the Pins, Derryclare and Benlettery, whose bleak and barren 
grandeur, towering bare and perpendicular to a great altitude over the road, 
forms a most striking feature, we proceed and keep the shores of Lough Bal- 
linahinch for three miles. The wooded demesne is visible from the road ; but 
commanding views of woods and waters can be had from the adjacent heights. 
The house or castle is more remarkable for its situation than for any architectu- 
ral attraction It stands upon the well-wooded bank of the long, narrow lake, and 
is backed by a range of lofty mountains. The old small castle seen on an island 
in the lake is said to have been built with stones taken from the ruins of 
Toombeola Abbey near the confluence of the Owenmore River and the bay. 
Ballinahinch was the seat of the Martin family, which was esteemed little if any- 
thing less than regal in this region, where it possessed 200,000 acres. As an evi- 
dence of the estimation in which the Martins were held, it was a common thing 
for the peasantry, speaking of one of the last of the race, to say he " was the 
best Martin that ever reigned." But the glory of the Martins has departed. 

This district was anciently the territory of the O'Flaherties, the most remark- 
able of whom, Edmond, Emtm laidir, or Strong Ned, is still remembered in Con- 
naught. He had frequent encounters with Captain Richard Martin, who got 
grants of his confiscated lands. They usually fought on horseback, sword in 
hand, and while Captain Martin was aided by his followers, O' Flaherty singly 
battled against them, and always cut his way through their ranks. After the 
Restoration the services of the O'Flaherties to the Stuarts were forgotten, and 
their territory divided among patentees. Richard Martin obtained an immense 
extent of country — so great that when George IV. was mentioning to his de- 
scendant, Martin, M.P. for Galway, some extensive drive in Windsor, Mr. Mar- 
tin astonished the king by telling him " that the Martin avenue was thirty miles 
long from the gate-house to the Mansion." It was so far true that no other 
house intervened between the pretty cottage called Martin's gate-house at 
Oughterard and Ballinahinch. Yet, though the district changed owners, and 
passed from the O'Flaherties to the Martins, no benefit accrued to the property ; 
for though there was a town intended to be built at a place called Clare, it 
never was proceeded with, and the vast estate of the Martins produced a very 
inconsiderable rental. The territories over which the lords of Ballinahinch 



GALIVAV. 211 

ruled gave them a high position, and as long as money could be raised on the 
estates, the race of Martins flourished in glory. The hospitality of Ballinahinch 
was prodigal, and, instead of raising money to improve the estate, the Martins 
squandered vast sums in " riotous living," and when the Incumbered Estates' 
Act came into operation, it was found the estates would not go, " here or there, 
to pay the debts." The Law Life Assurance Company of London were early on 
the list and got the property, and the fair daughter of the house and represen- 
tative of the Martin family emigrated to America, where she found an early 
grave. Although the Law Life Assurance Company are for several years in 
possession, no attempt at improvement is visible, and the poet may still sarcas- 
tically point out this neglected tract as when Thomas Moore made Lord Eldon, 
in a travesty of Horace, exclaim : 

" Oh, place me 'mid O'Rourkes, O'Tooles, 
The rugged royal blood of Tara ; 
Or place me where Dick Martin rules 
The houseless wilds of Connemara." 

The Dick Martin here alluded to was noted — among other things deemed 
eccentricities — for the passage of the Act of Parliament for " the prevention 
of cruelty to animals," popularly known as " Martin's Act." 

Thackeray visited Ballinahinch, and has left us in his Irzs/i Sketch-Book of 
1842, a glimpse of its picturesque beauties as well as an acknowledgment of the 
hospitality he received ; which, however genially stated, is quite suggestive of 
the reason why the Martins no longer " rule " in Connemara. 

"The road had conducted us for miles through the vast property of the gen- 
tleman to whose house I was bound, Mr. Martin, the member for the county ; 
and the last and prettiest part of the journey was round the Lake of Ballina- 
hinch, with tall mountains rising immediately above us on the right, pleasant 
woody hills on the opposite side of the lake, with the roofs of the houses rising 
above the trees ; and in an island in the midst of the water a ruined old castle, 
that cast a long, white reflection into the blue waters where it lay. A land-pirate 
used to live in that castle, one of the peasants told me. In the time of ' Oliver 
Cromwell.' And a fine fastness it was for a robber, truly, for there was no road 
through these wild countries in his time — nay, only thirty years since this lake 
was at three days' distance of Galway. 

" The builder of Ballinahinch House has placed it to command a view of a 
pretty melancholy river that runs by it, through many green flats, and pictu- 



212 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

resque rocky grounds ; but from the lake it is scarcely visible. And so, in like 
manner, I fear it must remain invisible to the reader too, with all its kind in- 
mates, and frank, cordial hospitality, unless he may take a fancy to visit Galway 
himself, when, as I can vouch, a very small pretext will make him enjoy both. 
It will, however, be only a small breach of confidence to say that the major-domo 
of the establishment (who has adopted accurately the voice and manner of his 
master, with a severe dignity of his own, which is quite original,) ordered me on 
o-oing; to bed ' not to move in the morning till he called me,' at the same time 
expressing a hearty hope that I should 'want nothing more that evening.' Who 
would dare, after such peremptory orders, not to fall asleep immediately, and in 
this way disturb the repose of Mr. J — n M — 11 — y ? 

"There may be many comparisons drawn between English and Irish gentle- 
men's houses ; but perhaps the most striking point of difference between the two 
is the immense following of the Irish house, such as would make an English 
housekeeper crazy almost. Three comfortable, well-clothed, good-humored fel- 
lows walked down with me from the car, persisting in carrying — one a bag, ano- 
ther a sketching stool, and so on : walking about the premises in the morning 
sundry others were visible in the court-yard and near the kitchen door ; in the 
grounds a gentleman, by name Mr. Marcus C — rr, began discoursing to me about 
the place, the planting, the fish, the grouse, and the master, being himself doubt- 
less one of the irregulars of the house. As for maids, there were a half a score of 
them scurrying about the house ; and I am not ashamed to confess that some of 
them were exceedingly good-looking. And if I might venture to say a word more, 
it would be respecting Connemara breakfasts ; but this would be an entire and 
flagrant breach of confidence, and to be sure the dinners were just as good." 

The Ballinahinch waters, which extend from Lough Inagh to the sea, em- 
bracing the lakes alluded to in our progress westward, are celebrated among 
sportsmen, and have for them an additional charm to that of the picturesque. 
" The Ballinahinch district," so called, extends from Pigeon Point to Slyne Head, 
and embraces the Westport, Belclare, Bunowen, Carrownisky, Bundorragha, 
Erriff, Culfin, Dawross, Traheen, and Derryborraun Rivers and their tributaries, 
and others not frequented by salmon. White trout are abundant in nearly all 
these rivers, and the brown trout grow to a goodly size, rather above the aver- 
age compared with other districts. There is very little free fishing, but permis- 
sion to angle is seldom refused, and indeed, as the guide-book says, never to 
a stranger. 

" O you," exclaims Thackeray, "who laboriously throw flies in English rivers, 





II.\N _ _JN \\J_ilI_I IIIOII- NDi CO^JNEMVi- \ 



214 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



and catch, at the expiration of a hard day's walking, casting, and wading, two or 
three feeble little brown trouts of two or three ounces in weight, how would you 
rejoice to have but an hour's sport in Derryclare or Ballinahinch, where you 
have but to cast, and lo ! a big trout springs at your fly, and, after making a vain 
struggling, splashing, and plunging for a while, is infallibly landed in the net and 
thence in the boat. The single rod in the boat caught enough fish in an hour to 
feast the crew, consisting of five persons, and the family of a herd of Mr. Mar- 
tin's, who has a pretty cottage on Derryclare Lake." . . . Thackeray's party 
took refuee in this cottage out of the rain, when, he continues, " Marcus, the 

boatman, commenced 
forthwith to gut the fish, 
and, taking down some 
charred turf-ashes from 
the blazing fire, on which 
about a hundred -Aveight 
of potatoes were boiling, 
he — Marcus — proceeded 
to grill on the floor some 
of the trout, which we 
afterwards ate with im- 
measurable satisfaction. 
They were such trout as, 
when once tasted, remain 
forever in the recollection 
of a commonly grateful mind — rich, flaky, creamy, full of flavor. A Parisian gour- 
mand woyAA have paid ten francs for the smallest ^o//^^;? among them. . . . They 
were red or salmon trouts — none of your white-fleshed brown-skinned river 
fellows." A more recent English sportsman, writing in London Society, says : 
" For the man whose heart is in sporting, I know of no place so well adapted 
as Ireland. . . . There is very fair fishing in many parts of England, but for 
real sport go to Ireland : . . . and as to flies, if I do not make them myself, I 
always buy them of local men, who know what are required. They tie them 
beautifully in Ireland, and know the required colors." 

Taking the road south of Lough Ballinahinch on the route to Roundstone, we 
recede from Bennabola, and have, consequently, better views of the peaks than 
from the main road to Clifden, where we are under their base. Two and a half 
miles by the Owenmore River brings us to Toombeola Bridge, where the over- 




A Salmon Haul. 



GALWAY. 215 

flowing waters of loughs Garromin, Inagh, Derryclare, and Ballinahinch mingle 
with the ocean. Here the tourist can enjoy the excitement of the noted salmon 
fishery, or take boat either to explore the beauties of Bertraghboy Bay, or the 
lakes mentioned. Near the bridge is the ruins of Toombeola Abbey, which are 
worthy of notice. Four miles farther, pleasantly situated on the western shores 
of the harbor that bears its name, is the little town of Roundstone. A good road 
is carried along the shore through a considerable extent of inhabited and cul- 
tivated country to Bunowen, nine miles distant, and there is also a good road to 
Clifden, eleven miles. Nothing can be wilder, in the opinion of Thackeray, than 
the country through which the road passes between Bunowen and Clifden. " We 
passed little lake after lake, lying a few furlongs inward from the shore. There 
were rocks everywhere, some patches of cultivated land here and there, nor was 
there any want of inhabitants along this savage coast. There were numerous 
cottages, if cottages they may be called, and women, and above all, children in 
plenty." The coast is fringed with numerous rocky islets. Slyne Head is on 
the most westerly, which is twenty-nine acres in extent, and its highest point 
eighty-nine feet. There are two light-houses here. 

Roundstone has a commodious and safe harbor, and great hopes are enter- 
tained for its future prosperity. The author of theA7io-/e7' in Ireland •gw^'s, us a 
pretty picture of the locality. " The white cottages of Roundstone, clustering 
around the base of the hill of the same name, the broken rocky shores that on 
all sides encircle the bay, the gigantic arms that it extends d©ep into the land, 
the fishing boats idly rocking in the little port, with the many others skimming 
across the blue water in every direction, and, beyond and above all, the lofty 
chain of the Twelve Pins piercing far into the azure vault of heaven, unstained by 
a single cloud — these several objects of beauty alternately engaged my eye and 
charmed my mind, as our tiny frigate shot across the bosom of this fine harbor." 

Back of Roundstone, perhaps a mile and a half to the west, the hill of Urris- 
beg rises to an altitude of nearly one thousand feet. Like Cashel Hill on the 
eastern side of the bay, Urrisbeg commands a vast prospect over land and sea; 
and if the tourist is favored with such propitious weather as that under which 
the Angler just quoted beheld the coast, the ascent to the summit should be 
made. From it the southwestern portion of Connemara, with its hundreds of 
glittering lakes, all the surrounding mountains, and the sea-bays with their 
islands can be traced through all their brilliant intricacies. Mr. Inglis thought 
the view more singular than beautiful ; but his own words convey the impression 
that it was quite as beautiful as singular. He says: " There is a mountain path. 



2l6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



about halfway up ; and the remainder of the ascent is through heathy slopes, 
and over rocks with scarcely any bog-land intervening. Connemara is remarka- 
ble for the variety of flowers and plants which grow wild upon its mountains. I 
gathered on Urrisbeg many very beautiful, and some of them rare wild flowers. 
. . . The view from the summit of Urrisbeg is more singular than beautiful. 
Here, Connemara is perceived to be truly that which its name denotes, 'bays of 

the sea.' The whole 
_ ^ _ western coast of Gon- 

- ^ nemara is laid open, 

with its innumerable 
_ bays and inlets ; but 

the most striking and 
singular part of the 
view is that to the 
north, over the dis- 
tricts called Urrisbeg 
and Urrismore. These 
are wide level districts, 
spotted by an almost 
uncountable number 
of lakes ; and mostly 
entirely uncultivated and uninhabited. I endeavored, from my elevated position, 
to reckon the number of lakes, and succeeded in counting upwards of a hundred 
and sixty. Shoulders of the mountain, however, shut out from the view some 
of the nearer part of the plain ; and other parts were too distant to allow any 
very accurate observations ; so that I have no doubt there may be three hun- 
dred lakes, great and small, in this wild and singular district. Several of the 
lakes have islands upon them ; and by the aid of a good telescope which I car- 
ried with me I perceived that many of these islands were wooded." Notwith- 
standing the wildness of the region and its remoteness Inglis found more than 
one " wonderfully good inn," where, he added, " notwithstanding the claims of 
the Blackwater, I think I may i^romise the traveler as prime a salmon as ever 
swam. Connemara is the country of salmon : every inlet and river is full of 
them ; and this is the staple of every dinner in every inn in this part of Ireland. 
Variety in the mode of preparing the salmon stands instead of variety. ' Salmon 
boiled, salmon roasted, and salmon pickled are produced successively, in place 
of fish, flesh, and fowl." 




Below the Falls at Clifden. 



GAL WA Y. 



217 




'k^S-^^ 




Clifden can be reached, 
as intimated, from Round- 
stone, or, returning by 
Lough BalHnahmch, the 
more picturesque route can 
be resumed. After leaving 
the lough, a road to the 
right leads to the green- 
marble quarries, where a finely streaked calcareous serpentine mottled stone with 
various shades of green and white is found. It is specially adapted for ornamental 
columns and mantels, and is worked into other forms, brooches, crosses, etc.. 



Clifde: 



2i8 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

as souvenirs of a Connemara excursion. The ride from Ballinahinch to Clifden 
is " surprisingly beautiful ! " and, to use again the words of Thackeray, there are 
views of the lake and the surrounding country, which, in his opinion, were not 
surpassed by the best parts of Killarney, " although the Connemara lakes do not 
possess the advantage of wood, which belongs to the famous Kerry landscape." 

Clifden is romantically situated on a height at the head of and overlooking 
the harbor of Ardbear, an inlet of Clifden Bay ; while on the other side it is over- 
topped by the mountains Avhich form a splendid amphitheater in the background. 
" It has arisen something after the fashion of an American town," says a writer ; 
because in 1815, it had but one house, and in the course of forty years it could 
boast of having four hundred houses. Although a stretch of fancy to compare 
this growth with that of " an American town," it was a matter of historical and 
no ordinary gratification in Ireland. It was founded by Mr. D'Arcy, one of the 
great proprietors. He pointed out the advantages which would accrue to this 
remote neighborhood of having a town and a sea-port so situated ; and he offered 
leases forever, of a plot of ground for building, together with four acres of moun- 
tain land, at but a short distance from the proposed site of the town, at twenty- 
five shillings — about six dollars — per annum. This offer was most advantageous, 
even leaving out of account the benefit which would necessarily be conferred by 
a town in a district where the common necessaries of life had to be purchased 
thirty miles distant ; and where there was no market, and no means of export for 
agricultural produce ; and so the town of Clifden was founded and grew.* 

But if the town flourished, the founder did not. The D'Arcys " have been 
reduced by their liberality," and, like the Martins, were sold out under the In- 
cumbered Estates Act. The views of Clifden from the eminences around it are 
singularly attractive. The Owenglen River rushing down from Bennabola forms 
a fine waterfall close to the town ; and the prison perched upon the rocky sum- 
mit of a hill overlooking it, gives, says Black's Guide, " in the distance, the idea 
of the Castle of Edinburgh." We may, perhaps, rather agree with Hall, that the 
castellated form crowning the hill which rises between the Waterfall and the town 
(as seen in page 216) presents a somewhat Spanish appearance. The waterfall 
is, without doubt, remarkably picturesque, and a very attractive feature of Clifden. 
The tumult of its cascades is heard amid the vivacity of the commerce of the pros- 
perous town : " the rush of waters mingles with the voices of its inhabitants ; yet, 
turning from the houses, it seems as lonely in its grandeur, as if in the center of 

* See Inglis, Ireland in 1S34, vol. ii., p. 74. 



GAL WAV. 219 

the untrodden hills." Rapidly flowing down from the Twelve Pins, the stream 
passing under an old-fashioned triple-arched bridge, which adds to the pictorial 
effect, suddenly turns at a right angle and leaps and shoots through a mass of 
rocks with very brilliant and fascinating effect. Reaching the bottom it takes 
another sudden turn, and dashes under another bridge, which spans its rocky 
borders, to join the Atlantic. 

Nowhere is the facility for improving certain descrijDtion of bog-lands more 
plainly and happily demonstrated than in the neighborhood of Clifden. Fine 
crops of grass, potatoes, and various kinds of grain are seen luxuriantly growing 
on land that was, not long in the past, only used for turf-cutting. As a harbor 
and sea-port, Clifden has important advantages; possessing deep water in thebay 
and safe anchorage for vessels of any burden. Many nautical men consider it 
the best harbor on the west coast for large vessels, and the ships of war, when on 
service in the Atlantic, frequent it, where they ride out the fiercest gales in per- 
fect security. 

Clifden Castle, built by the former proprietor of the district and occupied 
by his successor Mr. Eyre, is less than two miles distant, beautifully situated 
on the shores of Ardbear Harbor, adorned with thriving plantations and grassy 
lawns, and commanding an extensive view south and east. A path, open to the 
public, runs along the bank of the bay from the town to the demesne, and affords 
the tourist a delightful walk. Willis thought these two miles " one of the most 
beautiful walks in Ireland;" and Inglis peremptorily says, "let no traveler be 
in this neighborhood without visiting Clifden Castle." He is enthusiastic on the 
pleasure of this promenade, and his appreciation was enhanced by certain poetic 
surroundings of time and weather. " The walk from Clifden," he writes, " by the 
water side, is perfectly lovely : and the distance not greater than two miles. The 
path runs close by the brink of a long narrow inlet of the sea, the banks of which, 
on both sides, are rugged and precipitous. It was an evening of extraordinary 
beauty when I sauntered down this path ; the tide was full, and the inlet brimful 
and calm ; and beyond the narrow entrance of the bay lay in almost as glassy a 
■calm, though with a gentle heaving, the wide waters of the Atlantic. After 
reaching the entrance of the bay, and rounding a little promontory, Clifden Cas- 
tle comes into view. It is a modern castellated house ; not remarkable in itself, 
but in point of situation unrivaled. Mountain and wood rise behind ; and a fine 
sloping lawn in front, reaches down to the beautiful land-locked bay ; while to the 
right, the eye ranges over the ocean, until it mingles with the far and dim hori- 
zon. Twenty years ago, the whole of this was a bog : now not a rood of bog- 



220 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

land is to be seen. The lawn I saw laden with a magnificent crop of hay ; while 
at the same time, the sunk fence showed a deep bog." 

Returning by the m.ountain road he was again delighted with the new views 
which this route disclosed, more Swiss in character than anything he had seen in 
Ireland. "The mountain range behind Clifden — the Twelve Pins of Bennabola 
— is almost worthy of Switzerland. In its outline, nothing can be finer. Alto- 
gether I was greatly pleased with Clifden ; and I think I m.ay safely risk a 
prophecy, that this town will rapidly rise into importance." 

The first quarter of a century of its existence was a period of remarkable 
development, and if the succeeding period has not been as enterprising in the 
same ratio it was because of the slow rate of improvement in the interior. Its 
beauty and advantages are universally acknowledged, and Sir John Forbes pays 
it an additional recognition which, coming from a distinguished physician, will 
not be overlooked by invalids. After paying respect to " the majestic summits 
of the ever-charming Bennabola," he continues : " From the high grounds in its 
vicinity there is a full view of the Atlantic ; as well as of the innumerable sea- 
inlets that break through and inclasp the land on all sides with their glittering 
arms. There is, indeed, something singularly pleasing in the landscape all 
around, particularly in that hilly ridge which looks along the Bay of Ardbear, and 
commands the view of the wide Atlantic beyond it. Although I hardly know in 
what the charm consists, I have certainly seen no spot in Ireland which, from the 
attractiveness of mere locality, would claim my suffrage, as a place of residence, 
so entirely as Clifden. Over and above its scenic beauties, its position is such as 
to insure for it every terrestrial and climatorial condition that is found most con- 
ducive to health." 

The tract on which Clifden stands was formerly called Clochan or Cloughan, 
and it is still so called in the Irish, and means a beehive-shaped stone house. 
The modern is a corruption of the old name, the ch being changed toy^ in this 
and other names of places, illustrations of which are given by Joyce. The hill 
of Cloughan-ard — the ascent of which is recommended for views of the town and 
vicinity — retains the original name. In connection with the old language, the 
author of A Run Thro-itgh the West of Ireland \n\-\o was in Clifden on a market 
day, and had a good opportunity of observing and speaking with the concourse 
of people who had all sorts of commodities for sale, says, " We found nearly the 
whole rural population speaking Irish. Throughout all our route we found Irish 
very generally spoken, and as in our previous tours through Wicklow, Killarney, 
and the south, my English wife heard English almost universally used, she en- 





>,^ijrli^. 






•^- 



',i^ y jTStt ' ./ 




Cl-IFDEN FALLS. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




tertained the notion that the Irish language had completely died out. This- 
was removed by her trip to Connemara." 

For six or seven miles after leaving Clifden we have scenery of a varied and 
attractive character ; now climbing high steeps — now descending into deep val- 
leys, skirting and rounding inlets of the sea on the one side, and still, calm fresh- 
water loughs on the other ; and at times catching glimpses of the long solitary 

valleys and deep hollows that lie in the heart of 
the mountains ; groups of cattle on the hillsides, 
or venturous goats on projecting rocks giving 
variety and interest to the scene. The scenic 
effect is increased by a departure from the road, 
which on our course' to Kylemore at some seven 
miles from Clifden, leads us to Letterfrack, where 
the tourist may pass a day pleasantly, ascending 
Diamond Mountain, and otherwise observing 
facts which cannot but address themselves to his 
better feelings. The little place is commendably 
clean and comfortable, and owes what may be 
almost termed " its existence " to the efforts of 
Mr. Ellis, an English member of the Society of 
Friends, who by judicious expenditure has re- 
claimed and improved a large extent of waste 
moorland, and built a school, store, and good 
dwellings for the people in his employ. The Rev. 
Mr. Smith in his Connemara Past and Present says,, 
" Letterfrack a few years ago Avas a barren rock ; 
it is now a crown of beauty. It was a region of 
haggard looks and walking skeletons ; it is now animated by a well-looking, a 
well-fed, and a well-paid peasantry. . . . Formerly the poor had no market 
nearer than Clifden, or even Westport (in Mayo), twenty-seven miles off ! but 
now there are provisions and goods of every description, which at a moderate 
price, without loss of time and labor, they can readily buy. Formerly the soil 
refused to the indolent spade the riches which it possessed ; but now, as we were 
witnesses, the land gives forth a liberal increase." Forbes describes the settle- 
ment as " a sort of straggling village, containing a grand new shop, built and 
endowed by Mr. Ellis, and which is the wonder and the comfort of all the coun- 
try round. It is a perfect storehouse of all kinds of necessaries, all I believe, of 




On the Kylemore Road. 



GALWAY. 223 

the best sort, and transferable to the uses of the community at the lowest 
. possible scale of prices." By indefatigable exertion and the expenditure of much 
money a green smiling island of cultivation has been raised amid the dark desert 
of moorland that surrounds it ; and in this grand work, not only the land, but 
the population were reclaimed from impending ruin. A visit to the school, the 
whole outlay of which — including the salaries of a master and mistress — was 
• defrayed by Mr. Ellis, disclosed some features which cannot be better described 
than in the words of the English scientist whose work is largely devoted to 
"educational interests." 

He found some sixty boys and thirty-two girls, and " not one Protestant in 
either school." In addition to book-learning and writing the girls were '"' carefully 
taught sewing, and the other mysteries of the needle." " I remarked that the 
boys were more rugged, and altogether less neatly dressed than in most of the 
National schools I had visited, and was told that this was the result of principle 
on the part of Mr. Ellis, he deeming it unsuitable to hold out any mere physical 
lure to attract children to the school, and wishing to encourage the parents to 
make an effort to clothe their families out of their own earnings. Ragged as 
they were, however, they were fully a match, in point of learning, for the boys 
of any school I had yet seen in Ireland. Their feats in mental arithmetic were 
really alarming to men accustomed to do their little reckonings in pen and ink ; 
and were enough to frighten from their ancient haunts, if any still lingered there, 
all the elves and fairies and brownies of the Malloge Mountain, at whose base 
they were performed. The aspect of the girls' school was very different, and 
seemed to whisper the secret that the womanly care that presided here was 
not so rigid, at least, in the matter of political economy, as was the masculine 
authority ; the girls being all extremely neat and well dressed, with a great array 
of charming white pinafores. However, it appeared that even Mrs. Ellis was 
not altogether regardless of social economics, as she made the children buy the 
main parts of their dress out of their own earnings with the needle, she only 
supplying, from her own private stores, the pinafores aforesaid. On the whole, 
looking on this scene in all its varied relations, I doubt if I found anything in 
Ireland more delightful — more especially as there was added to its intrinsic 
attractions the enhancing charm of unexpectedness." 

Letterfrack is situated on Bernaderg Bay, and has its advantages as a fishing 
station as well as a point from which to make excursions ; within a mile looms up 
the cone of Diamond Hill (see p. 213), which overlooks the pass of Kylemore, 
Salruc, and Killery Bay, and gives fine views of the Twelve Pins. The road here 



224 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



branches to Rinvyle, situated on a peninsula which, though more exposed to the 
Atlantic storms than other portions of the seaboard, is comparatively speaking 
well cultivated. The unpretentious ruins of a castle and church are seen near 
Rinvyle Point. The castle overlooks the sea ; and here history and romance 
with their thousand recollections, unite to people the locality with the phantoms 
of the past, as if to heighten the present aspect of the singularly romantic 
scene, by reminiscences of the turbulent deeds of which it once was the theater. 

Two miles from Letterfrack on the road round the Twelve Pins, the river 
Dawross — wh ich 

carries off the ' 

water from 
loughs Kylemore 
and PoUacappul 
and many moun- 
tain torrents into 
Ballynakele Har- 
bor — is crossed ; 
and at this point 
we get the first 
view of the Pass 
of Kylemore. 

We next reach Adragoole, which — a heathy waste a few years 
since — has been transformed by another English settler, Mr. — ^ 
Eastwood, into a place of comfort arid cultivation. Passing ' ^o^^ - 

the small Lough PoUacappul on the right, we reach the Pass and soon behold 
the beautiful Lough Kylemore. The Pass is about three miles long, and the 
lough, two, and about half a mile wide. It is universally regarded as the most 
beautiful lake in Connemara, and indeed some deem it one of the most beau- 
tiful and romantic pieces of water in all Ireland. It fills up the whole space 
between lofty ranges of almost perpendicular mountains of great altitude. On 
the south side the copse-covered acclivities rise in succession to the towering- 
peaks of Ben-cullagh and Ben-bawn, over 2,306 feet ; on the north, Garraun, 
more steep and rocky at the water base, rises to a height of 1,973 feet and sepa- 
rates Glen Fee from the Pass ; while on the east the view is prolonged over moss 
and moor to the lofty mountains of Maam Turk. The remains of the great birch 
wood, interspersed with holly and gnarled oak, take root among the crevices of 
the rocks on Garraun, and garland the immense impending ledges piled one 




Coast at Rinvvli 




GALIVAV. 225 

above the other, seemingly detached, and ready to precipitate themselves upon 
the traveler by the shore. In this wood is found the exquisite white heath. On 
the opposite side the grass and heather sparkle in the sun, and by moonlight ap- 
pear quite silvery. Solitude, grandeur and sublimity are the characteristics of the 



/n the Pass of Kylemore. 

surrounding scenery. Situated in a most interesting position, the hotel is .near 
the head of the lough, and also near the head of Glen Inagh, from the southern 
part of which near Recess we have made the circuit of the wonderful Bennabola 
group. No better place can be chosen than Kylemore from which to explore the 
inner glens, dells and recesses of that extraordinary assemblage of mountains ; 
IS 



226 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

besides having the Joyce Country and Maam within easy reach. On the border 
of Lough Kylemore, Mitchell Henry, M.P., has erected a very picturesque cas- 
tellated residence, which surpasses anything in the west. 

The enthusiasm in favor of Kylemore Pass and Lough is not of recent ex- 
pression. Inglis did not hesitate to say that the scenery from Clifden to the 
Killeries and Leenane was the finest in Ireland. In his opinion nothing at 
Killarney came at all near it for boldness of character. He would not be 
understood as disparaging the Kerry lakes, which for combination of form and 
color — in wood and water — are not to be surpassed ; but, he says, "in speaking of 
Killarney, I think I ventured to observe, that no approach to sublimity was to 
be found ; and as, in the part of Ireland of which I am now speaking, there are 
undoubted approaches to the sublime, with all of the picturesqueness that de- 
pends upon form, I think these ought to weigh heavier in the balance, than that 
softened beauty, which at Killarney is created by abundance and variety of wood, 
and consequent splendor of coloring. I know that a far stronger impression 
was made on my mind in this journey, than by anything I saw at Killarne}^ Be 
it known too, that this is a country of lakes — lakes Avith as fine mountain boun- 
daries as are to be found in the three kingdoms." On the side of the mountain 
overhanging Kylemore Lough there dwelt for some years a noted outlaw, Johnny 
Gibbons, who levied blackmail on the inhabitants of the glens, and around whose 
deeds time has woven a sort of Rob Roy romance. His den was a cave, the 
entrance to which was so small as to baffle discovery by those unacquainted 
with it; from this he made his forays on the settlers, and like an eagle swooped 
back with his prey to his eyrie in the crags. 

As stated, Garraun Mountain separates Kylemore from Glen Fee, and one 
of tlie excursions which will best repay the tourist can be made from the Pass, 
throusfh the Glen to Salruc and the Killeries. Leaving what is known as the 
main road from Clifden, where it turns through Glen Fee, we command perhaps 
the very finest views of Bennabola in ascending the ridge between Kylemore and 
Killery. Here the Twelve Pins lose somewhat the character in which we have 
seen them — resembling the coroneted spikes of a mighty crown — and assume 
one of an opposite physical conformation. Here they appear more detached 
than from any other point, and present their towering spiral forms in lengthened 
array. As we ascend, the change in the aspect extends to the east as well as on 
the south, and the dome-like summits of Maam Turk Mountains present a circu- 
lar outline, contrasting as well in form as in sweep of position to the Bennabcla 
peaks. Here also the eye takes in the vale of Glen Inagh. 



GAL WA Y. 



227 



In Glen Fee — the scenery of which in Eraser's opinion is more allied to the 
sublime than that of Kylemore — is the lough of the same name, two miles long 
and three quarters of a mile wide, and the lesser Lough Muck. These lakes are 
completely embosomed between Garraun, and the high ridge which on the north 
separates Glen Fee from Killery Harbor. The glen widens inward — that is, 
eastwardly to the plain which stretches to Maam Turk, while on the west the 
declivities of its mountain boundaries contract it to a ravine. We again turn to 
the right or north from the road which leads from Lough Muck to the Rinvyle 
coast, and keep to 
the ridge of Salruc. 
In ascending and 
descending this 
ridge, views of great 
beauty and splendor 
are presented for 
our admiration. 
The Pass of Salruc 
is a precipitous de- 
file, and, though 
deemed perilous, is 
safely traversed with 
the aid of a moun- 
tain pony. From 
the Pass the panorama, so to speak, at either side is wonderfully beautiful. In 
descending, one of the most striking scenes in Connemara is gradually displayed 
— embracing the village, demesne, and church of Salruc, the lesser Killery Har- 
bor, with its rocky Isles, and Innisbofifin in the distance, the beautiful pastoral 
ridge that encircles the lesser and separates it from the greater Killery, and 
farther in the northwest Muilrea, the loftiest mountain in the west. The vast 
expanse of ocean beyond the bay very naturally awakens different trains of 
thought — and doubtless heightened by contrast — to those excited as Mr. Fraser 
suggests, by the contemplation of the lonely tiny loughs which adorn the bosoms 
of the more central glens, while the lofty Muilrea, aided in its effect by the inter- 
vention of the remarkable pastoral ridge which separates the Killeries, imposes 
a solemnity on all around. The guide pays a just tribute to General Thompson, 
a veteran who took up his abode here and added to the magnificence of nature 
by the judicious culture and civilizing influences of art and reclamation. 




228 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




If 






Killery Harbor, a 
great feature of the -west 
and the aim and end of 
much touring, is within a 
mile of Salruc Pass On 
reaching this mountain 
bound estuary the road 
turns to the east but at 
a sufificient altitude to 
afford a noble \ leu of its 
longitudinal range and 
what Forbes calls its 
singular environment by 
its mountainous girdle. 
After being spell-bound 
by its effect, we pause to 
see and learn what caused 
it. The Killery is, we 
find, a narrow arm of the 
sea extending some ten miles into the land between the counties of Gahvay and 
Mayo, completely overhung by lofty mountains, nearly as elevated, and of as 
picturesque form as any in Ireland. The Irish name appropriately indicates it 
as the reddish narrow sea-inlet. Inglis described it as resembling- a Norwegian 






yX 



Salruc Pass. 



GAL WA Y 



229 



fiord, but the lack of woods does not fill out the details of such a suggestion. 
The sensation experienced by Otway is realized by every tourist — that, while 
sailing on the bay, locked in as you apparently are on every side, were it not for 
the smell and color, and vegetation peculiar to the sea, you would imagine you 
were on a mountain lake. " But," as he adds, " there is scarcely any lake which 
has not a iante end, generally that where the superabundant waters flow off and 
form a river ; but here nothing was tame. On every side the magnificent moun- 
tains seemed to vie with each other which should keep your attention most." 




Hotel at Maam. 



Most of the mountains we have passed or seen, are here in sight ; with others, 
and Muilrea with its cap of clouds that it has caught, and anon flings fitfully off, 
as much as to say, " I am the great cloud-compeller of Europe, and not one of 
you, ye proud rangers of the sky, shall come from the banks of Newfoundland 
without paying me tribute." 

Leenane is near the head of the Killery — a most picturesque and desir- 
able place for the artistic tourist. It is in the center of the Joyce's Country, 
a district of the northwest of Galway embracing the Killeries, parts of loughs 
Corrib and Mask and the Maam Turk group. This district derives its name 
from a settlement made in it in the reign of Edward I. by Thomas Joyes or 
Joyce, who married the daughter of an Irish chieftain. His people and their de- 
scendants adopted the Irish language and customs, were distinguished as a race 
remarkable for physical strength and appearance, gave their name to the territory 



230 . PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

in which they dwelt, and were subjects of comment and admiration to numerous 
writers. 

Leenane — the " head of the sea " — is the extreme point to which the tide in 
the Killery flows. Thackeray's note on his trip to it is characteristic and pic- 
torially suggestive. It is twenty miles from Clifden, and to arrive at it, he says, 
"you skirt the mountain along one side of a vast pass through which the ocean 
runs from Killery Bay, separating the mountains of Mayo from the mountains of 
Galway. Nothing can be more grand and gloomy than this pass ; and as for 
the character of the scenery, it must, as the guide-book says, ' be seen to be un- 
derstood.' Meanwhile let the reader imagine huge, dark mountains, in their 
accustomed scenery of purple and green, a dull gray sky above them, an estuary 
silver bright below ; in the water lies a fisherman's boat or two ; a pair of sea- 
gulls, undulating with the little waves of the water ; a pair of curlews wheeling 
overhead, and piping on the wing, and on the hillside a jingling car with a 
cockney in it, oppressed by, and yet admiring all these things. Many a sketcher 
and tourist, as I found, had visited this picturesque spot ; for the hostess of the 
inn had stories of English and American painters, and of illustrious book-writers 
too, traveling in the service of our lords of Paternoster Row." 

As Leenane stands on the junction of the road from Clifden to Westport 
and that leading to Maam, we can make the circuit of Connemara by taking the 
latter on the return to the town of Galway. The Maam Turk (the path or pass 
of the Boar ; in the same sense as, beyond the Missouri, we say Buffalo trail) is 
the longest mountain chain in the district, and forms the boundary between 
Connemara and the Joyce Country, their summits being between 2,000 and 
2,500 feet. Rising near the head of Lough Corrib they sweep in a semicircular 
course to Leenane, a distance of twelve miles, and separate Glen Inagh from 
the valley of Bealanabrack, through which the road to Maam lies. The River 
Bealanabrack, which seeks Lough Corrib through the center of this valley, has 
its head springs not far from the Killery, but, flowing in an opposite direction, 
seem, as Otway says, to turn their backs on it " as if desirous, like poor mortals 
clinging to human life, to keep away as long as possible from the immense 
and awful ocean of eternity." 

Coming down the glen we reach, at a distance of seven miles from Leenane, 
Lough Nafooey and its waterfall, and as we proceed have excellent views of the 
upper end of Lough Corrib and that vast tract of the mountainous district of the 
Joyce Country which lies around the western shores of Lough Mask ; and of the 
pretty valley in which the Maam Hotel is situated. This hotel was built by Mr. 



GAL WAV. 



231 



Nimmo, the celebrated engineer, for his own accommodation while professionally 
engaged in this district, and stands beside an elegant bridge which crosses an 
arm of Lough Corrib, where the Bealanabrack pours its mountain waters into it. 
Otway did not know any spot in the British Isles so favorable as this for observ- 
ing, within a limited compass, fine lake, river, ocean, and mountain scenery ; and 
Hall, who had seen many scenes of wilder and more rugged grandeur, saw 
nothing in Connemara that astonished or delighted him more than this valley — 
nothing that 
" so happi ly 
mingled the 
sublime and 
b e a u t i f u 1." 
The inn at 
Maam stands 
in the very 
focus of all 
that is grand 
and beautiful 
of a district 
abounding in 
beauties. From 
it can be visited 

the various localities we have passed through, and 
the adjacent and more interesting parts of Lough 
Corrib, — we can sail on the quiet waters, or climb the rugged pass which leads 
over Maam Turk into Glen Inagh. 

After having rushed in torrents down the mountains the river moves placidly 
to meet the arm of Lough Corrib put forth to receive it at Maam. On a low 
promontory jutting out into the lake and with a background of the mountains 
are the ivy-crowned ruins of the Hen's Castle, which is said to have been built 
by Roderick O'Conor, the last king, as a refuge in case he should be driven by 
his foes from the sanctuary of Cong, on the Mayo side of the lough. Other ac- 
counts give its origin to the sons of Roderick, and Richard de Burgo. It is 
regarded as one of the most ancient military structures in the country. Its 
isolated position and character have led the people to believe that its origin was 
supernatural, and that it was built " by enchantment in one night by a cock and 
hen grouse, who had been an Irish prince and princess." 




Hens Ctsth in L u h L 1 1 ib 
Maam Turk Mountains 



232 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

A popular legend indicates perhaps the origin of the name by which the ruin 
is known. A lady of the O'Flahertys — Bivian — a widow and an heiress with 
an only daughter, fearing the designs of her own family and the De Burgos on 
her property, shut herself and child with twenty faithful followers in this castle. 
Lest this course might be used to her disadvantage, Dame Bivian wrote, in her 
maiden name, to Queen Elizabeth, describing the disaffection in the country and 
the writer's desire to maintain peace, and begging permission to arm her followers- 
for that purpose. The queen, unacquainted with the gender of Irish names, 
addressed a letter to her good friend " Captain Bivian O'Flaherty," authorizing 
the maintenance of twenty men at arms at her majesty's expense. In " preserv- 
ing the peace " Bivian took care of her rights and those of her child, who in time 
won a male protector in the person of Thomas Blake, the ancestor of the Blakes 
of Menlough, whose castle is so romantically situated a few miles from the town 
of Galway on the left bank of the Corrib. 

Lough Corrib is in extent second to Lough Neagh, but in picturesque sur- 
roundings it is much superior. It is, from Maam to the town of Galway, about 
thirty-five miles in length. Its breadth is very variable, narrowing to a quarter of 
a mile between the Joyce Country and the hills of lar-Connaught, and extending- 
to over eight miles between Oughterard and Cong. In depth it also varies — the 
navigation course in some places having but six or seven feet of water ; while in 
other parts, as between Inchmicatreer and Cong, and Dooms and Farnaght Point 
— called the " Old Lough" by the fishermen, it descends to a depth of 152 feet. 
It was formerly called Orbsen, or Lough Orib (corrupted by combination of 
sound into its present name), after Orbsen Mac Alloid, the Danann navigator, 
commonly called Mannan Mac Lir, the Son of the Sea, from whom the Isle of 
Man was also named. He was slain in battle on the west of the lake by Ullin, 
which circumstance gave the title of Moycullin {Magh-Ullin, the field of Ullin) 
to the district. The lough covers an area of 43,483 acres, and its water-shed in 
Mayo and Galway 780,000 acres. It is supplied by several streams from the 
Joyce Country — the Turloughs on the east; and a subterranean communication 
from Lough Mask, which is distant about two miles. 

The shores and islands of Lough Corrib are full of historical and anti- 
quarian interest, and have furnished Sir William Wilde with the materials for a 
work which must be consulted to fully enjoy the subject in detail. Loughs 
Corrib and Mask are separated by a ridge, from the heights of which some fine 
views of both lakes are obtained. A most favorable point for observation is 
the pretty village of Fairhill. Lough Mask is thirty-seven feet above Lough 





LEENANE. 









234 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Corrib, and the chasm where the water of the former debouches from the sub- 
terranean channel is well worth a visit. It is called the Pigeon-Hole, and is 
about eighty feet deep in the limestone waste that extends on all sides. Rock 
is piled on rock in solemn and grand desolation. Around the chasm are fringes 
of wild rose, honeysuckle, purple heath, and the palmated lady-fern, while from 
below arise the echoing murmurs of rushing waters. Descending, the bottom 
discloses a cave of considerable magnitude, through which the water — which 
seems alive with trout — flows in a strong stream, now flashing in the sunbeam 
that pierces down through the gloomy aperture, and then flowing darkly on, 
losing itself in the obscurity of the cavernous passages into which it falls with 
many a weird moan. When Otway visited this chasm its effect was heightened 
by an old crone who accompanied him as guide. He says : " She set fire to a wisp 
drawn from the bundle of straw she carried, and proceeding down along the 
cavern, far away from where the sun was sending his intrusive beams, she tossed 
on high her blazing wisp, and having given it sufficient windage, until it lit up 
fully the dark, mysteriously varied roof, she cast it forth on the waters, and on 
it went floating and still blazing, carrying forward its light, and discovering on 
and on the vaults and passages, now high, now low, eddying and whirling and 
flashing up its fitful blaze until it was extinguished in the far distance where 
the stream plunged down and was lost where eye never followed." 

In contrast to this subterrene wonder, we may briefly revert to a physical 
commotion which occurred on the surface of the earth a few years ago at Dun- 
more in the northern part of Galway. It was occasioned by the bursting of a bog, 
an account of which was received with the accompanying sketch by Mrs. W. D. 
Griffith of Dunmore. The bog, three miles east of the town, was connected with 
the Dunmore River by the Carrabel, a small stream flowing through pasture and 
plow lands. The bog was considerably elevated above the surrounding coun- 
try, and its skirts adjoining the arable land presented the usual appearance of 
high turf banks. A farmer digging potatoes suddenly observed a brown mass 
slowly approaching. Leaving his spade in the ground he went for the neighbors, 
and on his return, the mass of moving bog had half covered his potato field, and 
completely hidden his cornfield from sight, except a few stacks which remained 
on a knoll, an island in the midst of a scene of desolation. The bog continued 
to advance in a rolling mass down the valley of Dunmore, burying three 
farm-houses, and covering about iSo acres of pasture and arable land to a depth 
of six feet, and leaving the occupants of three homeless. The source of the 
disaster presented a strange appearance : the extent of the bog being defined by 



GALJVAY. 



235 



a series of black crevasses, where the upper surface had been torn asunder by 
the subsidence below. The " turloughs " present a peculiar feature in the west, 
and consist of vast winter accumulations of water in basins of great extent, chiefly 
in the limestone districts. The water disappears in summer, sinking through 
the cavernous subterranean passages common to the geological formation, and is 
thus conveyed to 
the lower levels, 
leaving behind 
large tracts of 
most excellent 
pasturage ; facts 
which suggested 
the remark that 
boat and horse 
races are alter- 
nately held on- 
them. Turlough- 
More and Tur- 
1 o u g h-C o r are 
two of the chief 

sources of winter supply on the eastern side of Lough Corrib. These turloughs, 
which in Munster are called "blind loughs," were famous water-fowl haunts in win- 
ter, but since the drainage operations portions of several of them have been tilled. 
In the parish of Killursa, on the eastern margin of Lough Corrib, are the 
ruins of an old church, which recall, directly and indirectly, reminiscences dear to 
religion and poetry. It is Killfursa Church, built by Saint Fursey, a holy man 
of the seventh century, who attained great celebrity, and, inflamed with the zeal 
of an apostle, extended his missionary labors from his native country Into Eng- 
land and France. In the former, Sigebert, king of East Anglia, abdicated the 
sceptre to become a monk under his direction ; and in the latter he was received 
with great honor by Clovis II., who gave him land upon which to found (in 644) 
the monastery of Lagny-sur-Marne, the fame of which under his direction became 
world-wide. He had ecstasies of deep import, and angelic visions, during his 
life ; and the poet Dante * is supposed to have been indebted to them for the 

* Dean Milman, alluding to the visions of tlae French monk St. Farcy (Fursey), says "they were among the most 
popular and wide-spread legends of the ages preceding Dante." The Rev. John O'Hanlon, in his wonderfully erudite 
and laborious work on the Lives of the Irish Saints, says the first vision of St. Fursey appears to have been the earliest 




236 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

plan of his Divina Commcdia. The materials for the life of Saint P^ursey are 
numerous, and are preserved in the chief libraries of Europe — among others, 
those of Lambeth, Stowe, Monte Cassino, Stuttgart, Florence, the Vatican. In 
the Burgundian library at Brussels there is a manuscript copy of his Acts in Irish, 
which was transcribed from an older copy by Brother Michael O'Clery. Of these 
materials the Rev. John O'Hanlon has made eminently interesting use in his life 
of the Saint. The church — the walls of which are still standing though dilapi- 
dated — is mentioned in the taxation of Pope Nicholas V., 1306 — a document 
preserved in the British Museum. The tradition on the banks of Lough Corrib, 
according to Sir William Wilde, was, that Kilfursa or Killursa, Killany and Kil- 
cuanna were built by three brothers, Fursa, Eany, and Cuana, who flourished in 
the early ages of Christianity.* These churches were said to be of the same form 
and style and extent — sixty feet long and eighteen wide ; but the western gable 
of Kilfursa, as seen in the sketch — copied from O'H anion's work — contains a 
square-headed Egyptian-looking doorway, at least twelve hundred years old. It 
measures five feet four inches in height ; only two feet in breadth at top and two 
feet five inches at the ground. The time-worn lintel is three feet eight inches 
long ; and the greater number of the stones extend the whole thickness of the 
wall, which is two feet six inches. Every other feature of the church is Gothic. 
The east end contains a beautiful Gothic window of considerable size, which is 
partially covered with ivy, as indeed a large portion of the ruin is. There are 
other ruins in the neighborhood, but it has been noticed that Kilfursa is the 
only one which has the east gable standing. 

The Clare River empties the waters of Lough Turloughmore on the eastern 
side of Lough Corrib. If we follow it up we shall — at a distance of some seven 
miles from the " City of the Tribes " — reach Clare-Galway, which though rarely 
visited is well worth the attention of the artist. The ruins of the abbey — which 
was founded in 1290 by John De Cogan, a descendant of that Milo who first led 
an English army of invasion into Connaught — are still in a fair state of preser- 
vation, and present a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, especially the 
square tower, which is elevated upon arches. A castle was subsequently built 

of its class, and to have been the original of many similar subsequent ones, such as the vision of Adaninan, of Tundal, of 
Frate Alberico of Monte Cassino, and others. " There can scarcely be a doubt entertained," he says, "that it furnished 
Dante, in a great measure, with the idea and plan of his sublime poem, the Divina Cominedia. Even various passages 
(which he subsequently gives from the translations of Longfellow and Gary) seem drawn from St. Fursey's vision ; for the 
coincidences are too strikingly similar to be fortuitous." 

* See Sir William Wilde's Lough Corrib, its Shores and Islands, etc., pp. 83, 99. O'Hanlon, Livt-s of the Irish Saint/ 
vol. i., pp. 223. 240-261-273. 




VIEWS IN CONNEMARA. 



238 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



here by the Burkes: and in it the Earl of Clanrickard in 1642 received the 
proposition for the surrender of Galway as signed by the mayor, Walter Lynch. 
Its position was so highly esteemed that, on losing it in the following year by a 
stratagem, Clanrickard bitterly lamented its loss as " the chief place of strength 
and importance I had, both to curb the town of Galway and command the coun- 
try thereabouts." The ruins of the castle and abbey with the old bridge spanning 
the stream make an exceedingly striking picture (p. 177). Three miles farther 
is Cregg Castle, noteworthy as the residence of Richard Kirwan, the eminent 

writer on chemistry and 
mineralogy ; and the birth- 
place of his brother, the great 
preacher Dean Walter Blake 
Kirwan, the overlooking of 
whose talents while the tu- 
tors and chaplains of English 
peers were preferred to Irish 
benefices, led Grattan, in the 
House of Commons, to re- 
mark that " if Mr. Kirwan 
had been an English block- 
head, he might have been 
long ere now an Irish bishop * 
but, unfortunately for him, he is an Irishman, and the original sin of his birth 
will never be forgiven him." 

In this section are the venerable ruins of Knockmoy. They have no special 
pretension to grandeur ; but the choir of the abbey is more than usually interest- 
ing, containing the tomb of Cathal Crovdearg O'Conor, king of Connaught — " the 
best Irishman that came from the time of Brian Boru" * — and some famous and 
curious paintings in fresco. Forty years ago, these frescos were in a sufficient 
state of preservation, although dilapidated, to convey some idea of the artistic 
and spirited manner of their design and execution. Over the tomb of Cathal 
was the taking down from the cross, the outline of which was firmly and freely 

* " A man in whom God had implanted more goodness with greater virtues than in any other of the Irish nobility of 
his time. From the period of his wife's death till his own, he led a single and virtuous life. During his reign tithes 
were first lawfully collected in Ireland. This upright and noble prince, this warrior of pure piety and just judgments, 
died on the twenty-eighth day of summer, on a Monday, in the habit of a gray friar, in the monasteiy of Knockmoy, 
which he himself had dedicated to God, and granted to the monks with its site and lands, and in which he was interred 
•with due honors and solemnity," A.D. 1224. — Annals of the Four Masters. 




Ruins of Kilfursa. 



GAL WAY. 239 

drawn, and although the coloring was almost obliterated by damp and neglect it 
showed the muscular tension of one who had died in great pain. Two other 
designs, on a large compartment nearer to the altar, have been the subject of 
much speculation and some controversy. The upper design represents six figures, 
clothed in rich and flowing robes : the one in the middle is said to be Roderick 
O'Connor, monarch of Ireland at the period of the Anglo-Norman invasion — who 
holds a shamrock in his hand emblematic of his sovereignty, while at either side 
are attendant princes, one holding what is said to be a hawk, and another a 
sword. Below this a sitting figure holds what appears to be a roll of paper. To 
his right is the figure of a young man in front of a tree, his arms evidently pinioned, 
transfixed with arrows, while two archers are in the act of still shooting at him. 
For an outline it appeared exceedingly spirited, and reminded the observer of 
the frescos then recently copied from drawings in the temples and catacombs of 
Egypt. The fresco representing the youth slain by arrows is, in spirit, design, 
and costume, somewhat similar to the designs on Bayeux tapestry and other 
works of early Norman art. Petrie, Ledwich, Dutton, the author of the Statistical 
S^irvey of Galway, Otway and others are of opinion that these Knockmoy fres- 
cos are " of the early Norman period, and were, if anything, only repaired and 
retouched by the priests of the seventeenth century, who, if they painted any- 
thing, would have represented some saintly legend, or some scenes which magni- 
fied their church."* Henry O'Brien not only dates them before the early 
Norman, but long anterior to the Christian era : and finds in them an illustration 
of his theory of the connection of ancient Ireland with the East and its religious 
worship. He argues that the abbey is a remnant of a Tuath-de-danann temple, 
" vaulted with stone, and transformed in after ages to a Christian abbey ; " that 
the frescos are at least three thousand years old, and represent the youth Apollo 
"overthrowing by self-endurance the dominion of sin ! and finally, by immolation 
upon a tree, to which you perceive him pinioned, establishing ascendency over 
the serpent and his wiles, and pointing out the road to eternity beyond the grave ! " 
In some of the upper figures in the same compartment he traces " three kings, 
with their Eastern crowns, their Eastern costumes, and the dove of amity en- 
twining all of them as they superintend the spectacle, while the solemnity of the 
whole is enhanced by the composure with which a Brehon sits by, in his turban 
of state, after reading from the Sana or Buddhist gospel the sentence of con- 
demnation and of mysterious expiation in one and the same breath." f 

* See A Tour in Co7inaught, etc., by the author of Sketches in Ireland (Rev. C. Otway), Dublin, 1S39. 
f See The Round Towers of Ireland, etc., by Heniy O'Bvien, Esq., A.B., London, 1S34, pp. 328-31. 



240 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The islands of Lough Corrib are so numerous that the people say they num- 
ber one for every day in the year, and that an additional one rises on leap year. 
Actually one hundred and forty-five, irrespective of rocks and shoals, have been 
named. The largest are those of Inchiquin, Inchmicatreer, Doorus, Inchangoill, 
Cannaun, Lee's Island, and Illaunaconaun. Passing the narrow channel throuo-h 
which the lake steamer darns its tortuous course, amidst the intricate navigation 
of rocks, shoals, and breakers, and getting into the open space of the large or 




Lough Mask ft om FaitlnU. 

middle lake, we are struck with the curious appearance of the islands, in groups 
of three and four, arranged in lines, as if marking the ancient boundaries of the 
lake beach. The west face of several of these small islands is truncated, the 
alluvial soil and gravel having been cut down by the winds and waves of thou- 
sands of years. 

Inchangoill {Inis-an-ghoill-Craibhtheach, the island of the devout foreigner), 
which lifts its long green ridge-like back to the west of our course, is by far the 
most interesting isle on the lake ; and indeed — " if we said one of the most re- 
markable spots on Irish ground, we should not fear to take up the gauntlet in its 
favor, for picturesque scenery, grand mountain view, and existing historic monu- 
ments.* Within an ancient ecclesiastical inclosure on this island are the ruins 
of two exceedingly ancient churches, both of the small Irish type, but of different 
styles and dates. One of them Teamptdl Phaidrig, or St. Patrick's Church, is of 
the Cyclopean order, built of massive uncut stone, and showing no signs of 
mortar except in the interior. Its internal dimensions are 29 feet 7 inches in 
the clear, of which 17 feet 11 inches by 11 feet 10 inches form the nave: the 
chancel is 1 1 feet 7 inches by 8 feet 8 inches. There are no remains of any 

* See Wilde, pp. 12S-136, the indispensable nature of whose work compels its frequent use in this district. 



GAL WAY. 



241 



altar, east window or side light. The square-headed doorway is of the true 

primitive type, about 6 feet high and 2 feet wide, narrowing 2 inches towards the 

lintel, which is a massive stone 4 

feet 8 inches long. " That this 

church," says Dr. Petrie, " is of the 

age of St. Patrick, as it is believed 

in all the traditions of the country, 

and as its name would indicate, can, 

I think, scarcely admit of doubt." 

From it an ancient flagged way 
79 yards to the southeast leads 
to the second ruin, Teampull-na- 
Neave, The Church of the Saint. 
This, a highly decorated structure, 
is evidently some centuries later 
than the former. The beautiful 
doorway, "a grand specimen of 




Doorway of St Patrick's Church 



early Irish decorative art, is decidedly anterior to the date of the Anglo-Norman 
Conquest." When O'Donovan visited it in 1839, two of the concentric arches 
of the door had fallen. Fortunately, nearly every stone has been found, and it 

has been skillfully restored by 
the proprietor. Sir Benjamin Lee 
Guinness, Bart., who, at such 
great expenditure restored the 
Cathedral of St. Patrick's in 
Dublin. " The jambs are formed 
by columnar pilasters, which are 
crowned by human-face capitals, 
from which springs the arch, 
the middle portion of which is 
carved into deep, horizontally 
projecting chevrons, over which 
is a row of ten faces, each dif- 
fering from the other, and which 
may, for aught we know, have 




Doorway of the Church of the Saint. 



been portraits. . . . The impost capitals are of exceeding interest, as they 
show a form of beard-plaiting and knotted hair-work, which, though rarely 
16 



242 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 





Impost Capital, Left. 



Impost Capital, Right 



represented in sculpture, were in all likelihood the Irish fashion of the day."" 
The special interest of the locality centres, however, in a simple four-sided 
monolith of hard grayish Silu- 
rian unhewn stone ; ten inches 
broad at the base, and from 
five to six at the top. It is 
near St. Patrick's Church, and 
stands two feet four inches 
over the ground, as a head- 
stone, but it is doubted that 
this was its original position. 
It has the appearance of having 
been one of those corbels so 
often seen projecting in old 
Irish churches. It has two 
crosses on each of three sides, and one on the fourth side, which are regarded by 
the greatest antiquaries as examples of the most ancient carvings of that sacred 
emblem now to be found in the British Isles, or, if the catacombs of Rome are 
excepted, anywhere in Europe. On the east face, as it now stands, there is an 
inscription in the Roman letters, t]\Ms, Lia Licguaedoii Mace Linenuek, "The stone 
of Lugnaedon, son of Limenueh," who was 
the sister of St. Patrick. 

Many places of interest can be visited by 
railroad from Galway if time and inclination 
permit. Athenry, the most ancient town in 
the county, formerly inclosed, with a castle 
and religious establishment, and a place of 
considerable importance, is now " little more 
than a mass of hotels and ruins : " the latter 
of its baronial and ecclesiastical structures, 
the former for the accommodation of the rail- 
roads which centre there. From the main 
road to Dublin branches run north and south. 
By the latter, and situated near the road lead- 
Mo7iu?ncntal Stone, West. jj^g. ^^ Corofin, the lonely Kilmacduagh, with 
its church ruins, cemetery and round tower, the latter remarkable for being 
several — some say seventeen — feet out of perpendicular, can be reached ; and 





Mo n u III e lit at 
Stone, East. 



GAL WAY. 



243 



""'^^^^• 




Tuam Cathedral. 



at the next station the bright village of Gort, on Lough Outra ; and near it the 
beautiful demesne and picturesque castle. It was the residence of Viscount 
Gort, subsequently the property of Lord Gough, and now, according to a late 
edition of Fraser, " an affiliated branch of the Loretto Convent of Rathfarnham," 
near Dublin. The demesne is well wooded, and the castle (p. 189) rises proudly 
over the beautiful lough from which it is named. The number of castellated 
houses in Galway is something very remarkable : and their enumeration would 
far exceed rational limits. Before the arrival of Henry II. there were not more 
than four or five castles, except 

those built in towns. In Henry _^ 

VIII.'s reign there were up- " "~- 

wards of five hundred in the 
county ; and since that period, 
chiefly in the reigns of Mary 
and Elizabeth, they multiplied 'S - 
exceedingly. " The common, 
small, square castles were the 
residences of English under- 
takers ; and all those built 
before the reign of James I. were executed by English masons and on English 
plans." Wilde directs especial attention to Annakeen, one of these square keeps 
on the lake shore. The quoins, doorways, and window openings, with the walls, 
both within and without, are all formed of undressed stone. The outer walls are 
six feet thick, and contain passages leading to the upper apartments and the 
parapet. Some of the arches of the windows and doors are circular, and others 
pointed ; but all ingeniously constructed with stones to which a hammer or chisel 
was never applied. There is not, perhaps, in the British Isles, a similar example 
of such admirably constructed masonry of its class and period. The only clue to 
the date of its erection, is that Ulick de Burgo, progenitor of the Clan-Rickard, 
was in 1324 called Ulicus de Anaghkeen, which would make it, at least five cen- 
turies and a half old. The parish of Killursa is now united with Cargin, adjoining 
it, and with Killannin, on the opposite shore in the Catholic Union of Headford, 
where the Rev. Peter Conway has built St. Mary's, one of the handsomest rural 
chapels in Ireland, at a cost of ^^4,000 sterling (over $20,000 specie), chiefly col- 
lected in the United States. 

Eastward, Ballinasloe, Loughrea, Aughrim, Portumna, with its castle ruins, 
on an inlet of Lough Deargr — the entrance to which from the Shannon on the 



244 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



northern end is impressively grand — may be visited with various degrees of in- 
terest. North from Athenry a branch leads to Tuam, a place of great ecclesi- 
astical antiquity, St. Jarlath — in whose honor the present college is named — 

having founded a religious house here in 
the sixth century. The Market Cross, of 
the twelfth century, is, in Petrie's opinion, 
" the finest monument of its class," as the 
Catholic Cathedral is among the noblest 
of modern religious edifices in Ireland. 
But, the living glory of Tuam centers in 
the venerable and illustrious prelate, pa- 
triot, and minstrel who takes his title from 
it — John Mac Hale, Archbishop of Tuam, 
otherwise, to the extent of civilization, 
" John of Tuam," — who has had unusual 
worldly honor crowning but not ending 
a life of saintly fervor and intellectual 
energy. Amidst a vast assemblage — em- 
bracing hierarchy, priests, and people — his 
statue was unveiled in June, 1875, in com- 
memoration of the fiftieth anniversary of 
his reception of the crozier. 

About five miles west of Tuam, Knock- 
magh, the great " hill of the plain " is 
conspicuous near the ancient battle-field of 
Moytura. On its summit is the Cairn 
wherein Cesarea, of the early Formorian 
Colony, was interred. Tradition has in- 
vested Knockmagh with poetical interest, 
for here Finvarra, "the Oberon of Irish 
sylvan mythology," holds his court. From 

Statue of yohn of Tjiam, , . r i;:: i Ut ■ „ A 

■' ■' -^ this seat of elfin revelry we obtam a grand 

panorama : the great plain stretching beneath Knockroe ; the Abbey of Knock- 
moy ; the town and towers of the Ford of the Kings ; Tuam of St. Jarlath ; the 
Round Tower of St. Bennan, the ruins of the keeps and castles of the De Burgos ; 
the ships riding in Galway Bay ; still beyond, the Clare Mountains ; Corrib and 
its isles ; and in the western background the ever-picturesque Connemara Alps. 




MEATH. 




Trim, from over tlic Boyne 



Although the County 
Meath is not wanting in scenes 
of picturesque beauty— espe- 
cially such as are rendered at- 
tractive by richness of pastoral 
aspect, or sweetly graduating 
combinations of river views 



with charming rural accessories, frequently enhanced by the presence of fine castles 
and grand ruins — yet the paramount interest of the locality is in the history of 
which it has been the theater, and in the antiquities of which it is the depository. 
The seat of the ancient supreme monarchy, watered by the river which beheld the 

245 



246 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

avatar of Christianity in Ireland in the fifth, and the extinction of Irish miUtary 
power in the country in the end of the seventeenth century, and the scene of the 
greatest peace effort at national revolution the world has ever beheld at Tara in 
1843, the interest attaching to Meath from almost prehistoric times to our own 
day cannot be over-estimated by any antiquarian or historical student. Notwith- 
standing these claims on the attention of cultivated people it is astonishing what 
little recognition the Boyne and its banks, until recently, won from travel-writers. 
Petrie first drew attention to the beauties of the river, and thus incidentally to 
the region through which it runs, in the Diiblin Penny Joiirnal. What he says 
of a portion, may be adopted as a graphic description of the river and its surround- 
ings in general. " It is of a character as beautiful as could be found anywhere, 
or even be imagined. Scenery of this class, of equal richness, may be often found 
in England, but we do not know of any river's course of the same length in which 
natural beauty so happily combines, or in which so many interesting memorials 
of past ages could be found. Scattered in rich profusion along the banks of this 
beautiful river, we find the noblest monuments of the various races of men who 
have had sway in Ireland. It is on its luxuriant banks, amid so many memorials 
of past ages, that the history of our country, as traced in its monuments, could be 
best studied." 

Since Petrie's brief but appreciative paper, justice has been done to " the 
pleasant Boyne," and to Meath ; first by Sir William R. Wilde in a delightfully 
descriptive and historical volume,* and more recently by Dean Cogan in an 
elaborate work on the Diocese of Meath.f Winding through the heart of the 
ancient kingdom of Meath, villages, towns, and hamlets rise on the banks of the 
Boyne ; enterprise has turned its power to account, and mills and factories draw 
animation from its waters. Toward its center, where the banks become more 
elevated, and the outline more picturesque, the scenery recalls to mind that on 
the Rhine between Cologne and Mayence. The summits of many of these 
sloping and verdant banks are crowned by castle ruins, towers, feudal halls, 
baronial keeps, and churches, noble in their decay, and forming, as they stand out 
against the azure sky, groups and scenes as remarkable as any to be found in the 
land. Interspersed apiong them are ancient stone circles, cromlechs, and mounds 
raised by the pagan colonists or natives. Scarcely a ford on this river but was 



* The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blaekwater, by William R. WiKle. second edition, enlarged, 
Dublin, 1850. 

f The Diocese of Meath, Ancient and Modern, by the Rev. A. Cogan, Dean of the Diocesan Seminary, Navan, and 
Archivist of the Diocese of Meath, 3 vols., Dublin, 1862-1870. 



ME A TH. 247 

■disputed in days gone by ; every pass was a Thermopylse ; the bardic annals teem 
with descriptions of the battles fought here ; fairy lore sings from its current, 
and every green knoll by it has a legend. 

The plains of Meath appear to have been the first cultivated in Ireland ; and 
it is, as Wilde suggests, more than probable that one of the earliest waves of 
population which reached Ireland passed up the Boyne, that the Aborigines 
settled amidst its richly wooded hills and deep alluvial plains ; and have 
left their bones in the numerous barrows and tumuli still remaining upon its 
shores. Beyond all question, the earliest undoubted kings of Erin reigned upon 
its banks, where also the earliest laws were framed, the earliest poems sung, and 
the most profound Druidical mysteries celebrated. Here stood the palace of 
Tara, long the seat of royalty, whither resorted the kings, princes, and chieftains, 
the bards, Druids, and brehons of the various kingdoms of Ireland. Here also, 
stood the royal pagan ce.me.t&ry oi Bi'-ttgh-na-Boinne, "the town or fort of the 
Boyne," where the great princes of the Tuatha de Danann race were buried. New 
Grange is still, like the pyramids of Egypt, the wonder and puzzle of the anti- 
quary. St. Patrick raised the cross at Slane, and his first great exhortations and 
conversions were made on the delightful and fertile banks (" pulcherrimum et 
fertilem," as Ussher has it) of the Boyne. The Danish and Norsemen invaders 
entered on its waters ; and the earliest recorded abodes of learning, as well as the 
most renowned schools of Christian philosophy, were seated by its margin ; the 
ruins of abbeys, priories, convents, churches, and oratories demonstrating the 
ample provision made for charity, education, and religion. Parliaments and coun- 
cils were held in its castles, and kingdoms — in battles fought by kings — were lost 
and won by the Boyne's " ill-fated river." 

These are not "the fanciful speculations of the enthusiastic but imaginary 
writers of the last century ; " but the confirmed truths of history, for, as Wilde 
adds, " Many of the historic annals which relate these circumstances, formerly 
difficult of access, and known or capable of being understood but by a few, have 
been recently published in the English tongue, and have satisfied even the most 
incredulous as to their antiquity and authenticity." 

Tuathal Teaclitmar — the legitimate or acceptable — king of Ireland from a.d. 
130 to 160, established the ancient kingdom or principality of Meath, by taking 
portions of the surrounding kingdoms as mensal lands for the support of the 
supreme monarchy. It is supposed by some that its name was derived from this 
circumstance of being composed of necks of land, the Irish word Meidhe signify- 
ing a neck ; some again, claim that its position in the midst of the other kingdoms 



248 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



suggested the name from Media ; while others derive it from Midhe, chief Druid' 
to Nemedius, the leader of the second colony of Celto-Scythians who came to 
Ireland from the Euxine more than fourteen centuries before Christ, and by whom 
the first sacred fire was lit in Ireland at the hill of Usneach. The great plain of 
Meath was known as Magh Breagh — the Magnificent Plain ; Latinized Bregia ; 
and Campus Brigantmm, the plain of the Brigantes, from having been possessed 




Trim Castle. 

by the Brigantes, who were called by the Irish Clanna Brcogain* Aldfrid, sub- 
sequently king of the Northumbrian Saxons, who was educated in Ireland, has left 
us in his Itinerary through that country, a poem in the Irish language still extant,, 
his impressions of Meath in the seventh century : f 

" I found in Meath's fair principality, 
Virtue, vigor, and hospitality; 
Candor; joyfulness, bravery, purity, 
Ireland's bulwark and security." 

The ancient monarchs had four royal palaces in Meath — at Tara, Teltown,. 
Tlachtga, and Usneach — which originally extended from Dublin to the Shannon, 
and from the center of Ireland to the sea. After the Ansflo-Norman invasion 



* See Wilde ; Cogan ; O'Conor, Rcritm. Hiber. Scrip. Vet. ; Dr. MacDermott, Ainiota. Four Masters. 
t See Bede's Life of .St. Cuthbert ; I.ingard's England, vol. i., chap. 3. 



ME A TH. 



249 



w. 



/1 



Henry II. conferred the land of Meath on Hugh de Lacy, and conveyed to him 
by charter "all the liberties and free customs " of the same " in wood and plain, 
in meadows and pastures, in waters and mills, in warrens and ponds, in fishings 
and huntings, in ways and paths, in sea-ports and all other places and things ap- 
pertaining," for the " service 
of fifty knights." This grant 
was confirmed to Walter, 
the son of Hugh, by King 
John, who subsequently, in 
1 2 10, formed the kingdom 
into a county and united it 
in civilibus to the province 
of Leinster. By statute 
during the reigns of Henry 
VIII., Mary, and Elizabeth, 
respectively, Westmeath, 
King's County, and the 
County Longford, were 
formed from the ancient 
royal territory ; with which 
the present Diocese of 
Meath, the largest in Ire- 
land, is almost co-extensive. 
When Hugo de Lacy 
held Meath as lord palatine 
" in as full and ample manner 
as Murchard O'Melaghlin 
(the dispossessed Irish king) 
held it, or any other person 
before him," he in turn made 

extensive grants of land to • interior of Trim Castle. 

his chief followers.* These supplanted the native chiefs, who with few exceptions 









lAy 






XT 



1:>^" 



->} 






^t1- 



' 7/J 



* Gilbert de Angulo, or Nangle, and his son Jocelyn, Hugh Tyrrell, Robert de I.acy, Willi, m de Missett, Adam 
de Feipo or Phepoe, William Pettit, Richard Tuite Jeffrey de Constantine, Gilbert de Nugent, and his brother Richard 
de la Chappelle, Hugh de Hose (Ilussey), Richard and Thomas Fleming, Gilbert Fitz-Thomas, Myler Fitz-Henry, Adam 
Dollard. The new possessors were called barons, and their possessions baronies, a name which afterward became the 
general designation of great divisions of counties. 



250 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



were of the race of the southern Hy Nialls. Naturally, a continuous condition of 
warfare existed for long years between the dispossessed king and chiefs and the 
new barons in possession and their respective descendants. Meath was the prin- 
cipal part of the " English Pale," and numerous great castles and strongholds 
were erected for its defense against the incursions of the Irish. After having 
played a remarkable part in the Anglo-Norman invasion, and been chief governor 
of Ireland, Hugh de Lacy was beheaded by a dexterous Irish axman, while 

viewing the completion of one of these cas- 
tles at Durrow, in the present County of 
Westmeath. 

If the pedestrian tourist enters Meath by 
the banks of the Boyne on the southwest, the 
first place of historic interest he will meet is 
Clonard, which had great celebrity in ancient 
days, and was the scene of a disastrous fight in 
1798, when the Wexford and Wicklow patriots, 
under Anthony Perry and Father Kearns, 
intending to push on to Athlone, suffered a 
severe repulse here. Saint Finian founded 
Clonard in the first quarter of the sixth century, 
and its great schools — to the learning and hospitality of which the Venerable Bede 
bears testimony — for centuries rivaled those of Armagh, Bangor, Clonmacnoise, 
and Lismore. The buildings, monastic and scholastic, and even the later military 
ones — of which descriptions are on record — are untraceable. A pagan tumulus — 
433 feet in circumference at the base, and 50 feet high, remains ; but the Christian 
temples are swept away — being represented only by three stones, the principal of 
which is a fine baptismal font, three feet high, of very hard gray limestone ; one of 
the finest and perhaps the oldest in Ireland. The pedestal is highly decorated with 
figures and foliage. The basin is octagonal, two feet and one inch in diameter 
externally, and the bowl, very deep, twenty inches across. The sculptures on 
the panels represent the Flight into Egypt, the Baptism in the Jordan, St. Peter, 
St. Finian, and figures of Augustinian monks ; which show that it was carved 
since the coming of De Lacy, on the rebuilding of the monastery inn 75. 

Trim (the ancient Ath-Truim, the ford of the Elder Trees), the assize town 
of Meath, is about ten miles from Clonard, but the approach by this route does 
not present the glorious ruins which crowd this historic locality — extending over 
a mile — in the attractive or picturesque aspect as seen from the eastern side of the 




Ancient Font of Clonard. 



MEA TH. 



251 





Smrlogstown Castle. 



Boyne. To see Trim to advantage in a pictorial sense it must be approached by 

the Blackbull road from Dublin. By this latter route we strike the Boyne within 

two miles of Trim. Standing by the road on the river 

bank, and commanding an extensive prospect is one of 

the strongest-built watch-towers of the Pale, Scurlogs- 

town Castle, built in 1180 by William de Scurlog, one 

of the Anglo-Norman fiefs. The outward wall is still 

perfect, as are some of its 
stone floors. It is a type of 
several castles in this re- 
gion, consisting of a square 
keep with round towers 
at the diagonal corners ; 
which have circular stair- 
ways and are entered from 

each floor. From this point the scenery becomes of 
great interest. The remains of St. John's Priory and 
castellated buildings at the bridge of Newtown ; the 
stately abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, a little farther 
on, raising aloft its tall, light and ivy-mantled win- 
dows ; the neighboring chapel with its sculptured 
tombs and tablets ; the green lawns, through which 
the Boyne winds between that and Trim, the silver 
stream itself, gliding smoothly on ; the gray massive 
towers of King John's Castle, with its outward walls 
Z =, and barbican, gates, towers and 



bastions, fosse, moat and 
chapel ; the portions of the 
town wall, the remains of the 
yellow steeple, — all these pictu- 
resque objects, with the ancient 
church tower, the town itself, 
the Wellington Monument, and 
the modern public buildings, 
form a combination of scenery 



Wellington Monument, Trim. 



and an architectural diorama of a very striking character. The locality and pros-, 
pect has the additional charm, as Wilde says, of ever forming new combinations, 



252 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



fresh groups of beauty singly or collectively, in all the varying aspects caused 
by atmospheric changes ; in sunshine playing upon these massive walls ; with the 
heavens overcast and the drifting shower, half revealing some of these turrets and 
gables ; the calm subdued light of evening softening every object in the land- 
scape, or the silver moontide throwing every recess and deep cathedral niche into 
shadow. Equally true is it, that among the beauties of the ruins of Trim, are the 
tableaux which each group form when seen from one of the others ; thus appear 




Newtown Bridge, and St. Johiis Priory. 



the castle and the yellow steeple with the town, when framed in the beautiful 
gothic window of Newtown Abbey ; thus may Newtown or the j^ellow steeple be 
seen from the interior of the castle. 

As may be surmised, Trim is a place of great antiquity and celebrity. Accord- 
ing to the Four Masters, it was founded by St. Patrick in a.d. 432, having been 
granted to him by Fedhlim, the son of King Laoghaire. St. Loman, who ac- 
companied St. Patrick to Ireland, was its first bishop, and it possessed a monastic 
school of the first class. It became one of the great strongholds of the Pale, and 
parliaments were frequently held in its castles or monastic halls. 

The Castle of Trim is justly esteemed the finest specimen of Anglo-Norman 
military architecture in Ireland, taking rank with those of Conway and Carnarvon. 
It stands on a sloping mound on the right bank of the Boyne, and even in decay 
is a noble and commanding pile. It occupied an area of four acres. The central 



ME A TH. 



253 



keep or donjon is rectangular, of sixty feet high, with square towers abutting 
from each side, presenting a building of twenty sides. A turret sixteen feet high 
rests upon each angle of the main building. The walls are of a solid thickness of 
thirteen feet. The keep is surrounded by a wall of immense height and thickness, 
strengthened with fifteen flanking towers, furnished with gates and barbicans, each 
nearly as large as an ordinary castle. Within the walls on the river side are the 
remains of a chapel ; adjoining which are the remains of a tower supposed to have 
been the mint. The interior of the keep was bisected by a central wall, from 




Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul. 

which sprung vaults of stone, supporting the floors of six stories. Wakeman has 
made the latest examination of this great structure, and says, " there were several 
garde-rQbes — or as we would now say — water-closets, in the upper chambers." 
The exterior is in excellent preservation, excepting the tower facing the town 
gate, which is said to have been destroyed by Cromwell's cannon. It was sur- 
rounded, naturally and artificially, by water. 

The first military castle was erected here by Hugo de Lacy In 11 73. In his 
absence this was fired by his deputy Tyrrell, who was too weak to hold it against 
King Roderick O'Conor, and his following led by O'Flaherty, O'Kelly, O'Dowd, 
O'Shaughnessy, and others. Having gained his object, the king retired to Con- 
naught, and Tyrrell set about re-edifying the castle before De Lacy's return. King 
John, "lord of Ireland," was at Trim in July, 1210, and is supposed to have resided 
in the castle. Wilde does not find positive evidence on the point ; although the 



254 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

present castle — which was erected ten years later by Richard Peppard, lord of 
Tabor — is popularly known by his name. Some years ago a signet-ring bearing 
a crown and the Plantagenet's family device was found in the ruin of one of the 
towers, and believed to be a veritable relic of John. His writs are dated "apud 
pratum subtus Trim," in the meadow near Trim, now called the King's Park. 

Sir Geoffrey de Geneville, or de Joinville, a nobleman of Champagne, who 
had married Maud de Lacy, was appointed lord justice of Ireland in 1273, after 
his return from the Crusades; and in 1308 resigned the lordship of Meath to his 
grand-daughter Joan ; whose husband, Roger de Mortimer, became a monk in the 
Dominican Abbey of Trim, where he died in 13 14. More than a hundred years 
after, in 1422, Edward Mortimer, fifth earl of March and Ulster, and lord lieu- 
tenant of -Ireland, died here. Richard II., on a hostile mission in Ireland in 1399, 
was startled by the news of Henry of Lancaster's arrival and progress in England, 
and immediately imprisoned in this castle of Trim the sons of the dukes of Glou- 
cester and Lancaster, the latter being no less a character than Pistol's " imp of 
fame," who some fifteen years later was the royal hero of Agincourt. Richard 
could not dream he was imprisoning the heir of England, or the words of the 
prince, when king, to Chief Justice Gascoigne, might have been applicable : 

" How might a prince of my great hopes forget 
So great indignities you laid upon me ? 
What ! rate, rebuke, and roughly send to prison 
The immediate heir of England 1 was this easy ? 
May this be wash'd in Lethe, and forgotten ? " * 

How few looking on the venerable ruins, " catch," says Wakeman, " the classic 
associations, that within its walls that prince was imprisoned before his accession 
to the British throne," or, indeed, are aware that "our forefathers of the Pale"' 
beheld 

" Young Harry — with his beaver on, 

His cuisses on his thighs, gallantly arm'd — 
Rise from the ground like feather'd Mercury, 



To turn and wind a fiery Pegasus "f 

over the plains of royal Meath. From the beginning of the fifteenth to the middle 
of the following century several parliaments were held in Trim : among the enact- 
ments of 1446 is that the " English marchours " should " not wear their beards 
after the Irish fashion, nor the Irish use shirts colored with saffron." Richard, 

* Shakspere, Henry IV., Fart Second. \ Hcniy IV., Part First. 



ME A TH. 



255 



Duke of York (father of Edward IV. and Richard III.), while lord lieutenant, 
dwelt here in 1449. In 1460 by the king's command a mint was set up in the 
castle, where silver and brass money was coined bearing the words Villa de 
Trymme on the reverse; and in 1495 the lordship of Trim " with all its liberties" 
was annexed to the crown. In 1642, it was held by the confederate Catholics, 
and taken by Sir Charles Coote, who being surprised at _break of the following 




Bective Abbey. 

day by the Irish, drove off the assailants, but lost his life. Seven years later it 
surrendered to Cromwell, since which time town and castle disappear from the 
pages of active history. The visitor is still enabled by winding stairways to reach 
the topmost turrets of the castle, from which an extensive and noble view is ob- 
tained. Standing on this historic pile the eye ranges over many miles of the vast 
and fertile plains of Meath, with the Boyne sweeping through them ; and various 
groups of ruins immediately beneath and around, with the Hill of Tara to the 
east. The Nangles and Talbots had castles also at Trim — they stand behind the 
modern town on the north side of the river. That of the latter was for years 
used as the diocesan school of Meath, and acquired modern celebrity in conse- 
quence of the attendance there of young Arthur Wesley, afterward the Duke of 
Wellington. In it was also educated, for a time, the eminent astronomer royal, 
Sir William Rowan Hamilton, another Irishman. Talbot Castle was built by Sir 



^56 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



John Talbot — " the Frenchman's only scourge " — whose titles are given with 
such jDomp of circumstance by Shakspere.* 

The monastic remains in and about Trim are numerous and striking. Many 
are indicated only by ivied walls, but several are beautiful and impressive. The 




old church, part of which is used for the Anglican service, is curious. The belfry 
is unimpaired, and the architecture, which is of the thirteenth century, indicates 
that the building was not altogether devoted to religious worship. About a 
mile below Trim, within a magnificent sweep of the river and extending on both 



* Sir IVilliam Lucy (visiting the camp of Charles the Daupliin and La Piuelle, Joan of Arc, outside of Bordeaux) : 
" Where is the great Alcides of the field, 
Valiant lord Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury , 
Created for his rare success in arms. 
Great earl of Washford, Waterford and Valence ; 
Lord Talbot of Goodrig and Urchinfield, 
Lord Strange of Blackmere, lord Verdun of Alton, 
Lord Cromwell of Wingfield, lord Furnival of Sheffield, 
The thrice victorious lord of Falconbridge ; 
Knight of the noble order of Saint George, 
Worthy Saint Michael, and the golden fleece ; 
Great mareshal to Henry the Sixth, 
Of all his wars within the realm of France? 
La Pttcelk. Here is a silly stately style indeed ! " 

King Henry VL., Part First. 
The names of the leading personages connected with this castle of Trim, recall many passages in the great drama- 
tist. In addition to those referred to, the position and importance of the De Lacys is indicated by Jack Cade (Henry VI., 
Part Second), when, addressing the mob at BlacUhealh and giving himself princely descent and noble connections, he said 
his father was " a Mortimer," his mother " a Plantagenet," and " my wife descended of the Lacies." 













a? VT 







THE BOYNE AND PLAIN OF MEATH. 



258 



PIC TURESQ UE I RE LA ND. 




Athlumnty Castle 



sides of the bridge of Newtown, are a remarkable group of ruins ; the principal 
of which are the monastery, and the cathedral or abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul. 
The latter was founded in 1206, by Simon de Rochfort, as an abbey of Canons 
Regular of the order of St. Victor. De Rochfort seems to have had the full sup- 
port of the De Lacys ; and to have wielded it with unbounded sway. He abolished 
several minor bishoprics, had himself created sole bishop of Meath, and transfer- 
ring the episcopal chair from Clonard, erected the abbey into a cathedral. It is an 
early and excellent specimen of the light-pointed Gothic. The portions of the 

southern wall, and of the eastern and west- 
ern ends, which still remain, are luxuriantly 
mantled with ivy. In the walls of a small 
parish church adjoining is the sculptured 
tomb of one of the mitered ecclesiastics, 
besides portions of exquisitely carved im- 
posts, capitals, moldings, and other frag- 
ments of the abbey. Close by are the 
roofless walls of the ancient parish church, 
which contain an interesting altar-tomb of 
Sir Lucas Dillon, chief baron of the exchequer under Elizabeth, son of Sir 
Robert, attorney general to Henry VIII., who bestowed upon him valuable church 
lands at the dissolution of the monasteries. Adjoining the bridge, on the south- 
ern side of the river, are the remains of a massive keep, with square towers at two 
of its angles. From it a range of buildings extends lower down to the river, along 
the water's edge, to a smaller tower, near which is the eastern gable of a small 
chapel with a fine triple window. At a short distance by the roadside is a light 
circular turret, which probably commanded the gate, as it did one of the ap- 
proaches to Trim. Within the walls of this extensive inclosure are also the 
remains of the Hospital or Priory of St. John the Baptist, of the thirteenth cen- 
tury, for friars of the order of Crouched Friars, or Cross-bearers, a fraternity 
that wore a cross embroidered on their habits, and devoted themselves to the 
redemption of Christian captives. 

Proceeding down by the river, and on the left bank, three miles east of Trim, 
are the ruins of the great Cistercian Monastery at Bective. This home was- 
founded by Murchard O'Melaghlin, king of Meath, some twenty years before 
the Norman incursion. Its possessions were princely, and its lord-abbot sat as a 
spiritual peer in the parliaments of the Pale. The shrines and altar-plate of Bec- 
tive were among the first in Ireland to attract the cupidity of Henry VIII. It is 



MEA TH. 



259 



a most picturesque ruin, and we cannot do better than see it through the eyes 
of Wilde. "The tints, which usually play upon the walls of Bective, are of a 
richer and more varying hue than we have ever seen elsewhere. The square gray 
towers, gables and chimneys, rendered in some parts perfectly golden by the most 
brilliant orange and yellow lichens, and, in parts festooned with the dark-green 
drapery of the Irish ivy, rising out of the light feathery foliage of a plantation 
of larch, and standing in the midst of a field of corn, which stretches between the 
ruins and the blue waters of the Boyne, form, upon a summer evening, one of the 
most lovely objects in nature." Beneath the arch, on the left of our illustration, 
according to tradition, is buried the body of Hugh de Lacy. The ruins com- 
bine a union of ecclesiastical with military and domestic architecture. Of the 
church, there are scarcely any remains. The domestic buildings are of a later 
character than the tower and other portions. In general arrangement, Bective 
differs from every other monastic structure in the kingdom, being, in fact, a mo- 
nastic castle, and must have been, previous to the use of artillery, a place of great 
strength. 

The Boyne sweeps gracefully from Bective to Navan, the first borough estab- 
lished by the invaders in this part of the country. It is situated on the conflu- 
ence of the Blackwater and the Boyne, in the center of some of the richest lands 
in Ireland. It is an irregularly built but thriving town. Approaching it, we 
behold Athlumney Castle, which rises on a commanding eminence, the base of 
which is swept by the river. Little is known of this castle but the sacrifice of its 
last lord. Sir Launcelot Dowdall, which is sadly and heroically interesting. He was 
an adherent of the Stuarts, and on hearing the result of the battle of the Boyne, 
declared that William of Orange should never rest under his ancestral roof. At 
night-fall, Dowdall set fire to his home, and, crossing the river, sat down upon 
the opposite bank, from which, upon that calm summer night, he beheld the floors 
and rafters of his noble mansion blaze and crash through the ruins. The estate 
was confiscated in 1 700. Before viewing the several interesting remains in the 
neighborhood, we will, as it is easily accessible from this point, visit that one 
locality which, perhaps, is more universally associated with the name and fame of 
Ireland than any other, the site of Tara's Halls, with the memory of which the 
genius of Moore has made every civilized being acquainted. The mere name of 
Tara conjures up a pageantry of historical and poetical associations, in the details 
of which we cannot indulge. We will, however, taking Petrie as guide, and O'Don- 
ovan, Wilde, and Wakeman as companions, present such facts as will tend to 
preserve the memory of the hallowed spot. 




26o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Tara Hill is about four miles from Navan. For more than 1,300 years this 
celebrated seat of the Irish kings has been abandoned, yet the remains of the 
illustrious city are traceable to-day, not in "cloud-capped towers," but in such 
monuments as it was the custom of the Celtic people to erect. Casual visitors 
spend an hour at Tara, book in hand, perhaps, and finding nothing but a collec- 
tion of earthern mounds and grassy undulations, a few time-worn stones and an 
old church-yard on the top of a hill, are none the wiser. To understand the book 
and to intelligently observe what is before us, requires, as 
Wilde says, a " certain schooling in the investigation of the 
sources of history, an eye practiced to the forms of ancient 
remains, and an ear attuned to the language of archaeology." 
Up to a recent period the names of the different raths, 
forts, pillar-stones, and other monuments on Tara appeared 
to have been irretrievably lost. Thanks, however, to the 
learning and zeal of Petrie and O'Donovan, there is scarcely 
' a remarkable object upon the hill the name and history of 
Pillar-Stone on the Hill which have HOt been discovered. Among the precious manu- 
scripts preserved in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, 
occurs one which, before Petrie's timie, had excited little attention. This venera- 
ble document, written in Irish, purports to be a transcript of a manuscript, which 
there is reason to believe was composed at a time when there was no mystery 
about the then existing remains at Tara. The subject is a topographical descrip- 
tion of the Hill, and the manuscript is accompanied by a map, whereupon a 
variety of monuments, forts, roads, wells, pillar-stones, etc., are laid down and 
named. Petrie, appreciating the importance of this unique specimen of " field 
work," compared the monuments as recorded in the manuscript and its drawings 
with the remains on Tara as they existed (some forty-five years ago). The result 
was startling. The ancient descriptions corresponded with an actual survey of the 
locality then being made under the auspices of the Royal Engineers. O'Donovan's 
aid was invaluable in translating obscure terms in the manuscript. Sir Thomas 
Larcom, then superintendent of the Ordnance Survey in Ireland, afforded every 
assistance. Under the immediate direction of this officer, nothing appears to 
have been overlooked ; and even were Tara to be plowed up, and all its grassy 
mounds and historic landmarks obliterated, the maps of the Ordnance Survey 
would preserve a faithful record of the Tara of the nineteenth century. 

At the cross-roads of Castleton the ascent of the hill is commenced by a 
narrow, very steep, and paved road. This, according to the early topographical 



ME A TH. 



261 



authority, was the 
great northern road 
to Ulster, known as 
"the Slope of the 
Chariots," Sliglie Fan 
na g - Carbad. Fol- 
lowing this ancient 
way the " Great Ban- 
queting Hall," Teach 
Miod hchuar ta, is 
reached. This is a 
deep excavation, with 
parallel sides running 
north and south, 360 
feet long and 40 wide, 
and having gaps or 
openings which corre- 
spond with the ancient 
doorways which led 
into the great hall, 
" The House of a 
Thousand Soldiers," 
where the Feis Teatn- 
rach, or " Solemn As- 
sembly of Tara," was 
held. Here, says 
Wilde, sat kings with 
golden crowns upon 
their heads, warriors 
with brazen swords 
in their hands, bards 
and minstrels with 
their harps, gray- 
bearded o 1 1 a m h s, 
Druids with their oak- 
leaf crowns, learned 
historians, wise 







^"C- 



Abbey of Slane. 



262 



PIC TURESQ I 'E IRE LA ND. 



brehons, subtle lawyers, the physicians, the smiths, artificers, charioteers, hunts- 
men, architects, the chess-players, and cup-bearers, together with crowds of ser- 
vants and retainers, whose places are all specified in the ancient annals. No 
doubt a roofed oaken structure was supported by the ramparts of earth which 
form the sides of the Hall of Tara ; as was the custom among Celtic tribes, such 
as the Gauls, Britons, and Scots, where wood was available and stone scarce. It 
is of great importance to bear in mind that the old plan of this famous apartment, 
as shown in the manuscript, corresponds almost exactly with the present remains, 
even to the number of the side entrances. Adjoining this spot, are two very fine 
and still deep mounds, named respectively, Rath Caelchon, and Rath Grainne ; 
the latter named after, as it was, no doubt, occupied by the wife of Fionn Mac 
Cumhal : a fort and well, the latter called Tobcr Fionn (Fionn's Well), are in the 
neighborhood. 

The " Rath of the Synod," Rat h-na-Scanad/i, also called the king's chair, oc- 
cupies the top of the hill, and consists of a double wall of circumvallation. It is 
the highest ground of Tara, standing 512 feet above 
sea-level ; and upon this spot it is probable some of the 
early Christian synods of Erin were held. Some years 
ago, two splendid gold torques, the finest ever discov- 
ered in Europe, were found on the side of this hill. 

Almost immediately in connection with this inter- 
esting rath is the modern, and perhaps very ancient, 
cemetery of Tara. The church is nearly altogether a 
recent structure ; but its beautiful traceried eastern win- 
dow belonged to an older edifice. In the same vicinity 
are two other relics, apparently of a monumental char- 
acter, and which are supposed to be two druidical 
stones called Bloc and Bhiicni, " which used to open 
out to admit the chariot of the king at his coronation ! " 
The most remarkable of the works on the hill is Rath-na-Righ, or " the king's 
rath." This was, no doubt, the citadel. It is an oval inclosure measuring 280 
yards in its longest dimensions. The wall is of stone, though so covered with 
sod that it presents the appearance of a low earthen rampart. At one or two 
points, however, its true character Is apparent. Within this oval are contained 
several very important raths, of which the Forradh (the derivation of this title 
we believe has not been ascertained) is the most striking, partly from its great 
extent, and partly that its central mound is defended by a triple circumvallation. 




Doovway, Hermitage of 
St. Ere. 



ME A TH. 



263 




Chou -licit, Canmstoiijn 



Another Is known as the Teach Cormaic, or " the House of Cormac ; " not far 
from which, toward the northern side of the inclosure, is " the Mound of the 
Hostages," D^m^ha-na-N giall, so named in memory of the hostages which King 
Cormac took from the different provinces. " In the center 
of the internal mound of the Forradh," writes Sir W. 
Wilde, " stands an upright stele, or circular pillar-stone, 
which was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hos- 
tages, but was removed to this spot in the year 1 798, and 
erected as a headstone to the grave of thirty-seven of the ^\ 
insurgents who were killed in a skirmish with the military 
in this neighborhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to 
be the celebrated ' Lia Fail' on which the early Irish 
kings were crowned, and which has been generally believed 
to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of 
Fergus Mac Eark, and afterward removed by Edward I. from Scone to West- 
minster Abbey. The Lia Fail was the stone so famed in ancient history, which 
was said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their inauguration. 
We fully acknowledge the force of the reasoning of Dr. Petrie on this subject, 
and admit the validity of his arguments, with respect to the history of the Stone 
__ of Destiny, and we must believe that it is not now in 

Westminster Abbey ; but at the sa'me time we are not 
by any means convinced that this romid pillar-stone now 
placed over the ' Croppies' grave' is the stone. Per- 
haps \kv& flat sctdpttired stone, in the grave-yard, latterly 
called the cross of St. Adamnan, may have been it : 
an opinion held by O' Donovan." Wakeman believes 
with Dr. Petrie that the " Croppies' stone " at Tara is 
the veritable Lia Fail. The writer of the old manu- 
script so often referred to, and so wonderfully correct 
in other respects, appears to have had no doubt of the 
stone being at Tara in his day. He even lays down 
its position on the hill ; and where he says it stood, 
we find the extraordinary relic which now marks the 
" Croppies' grave " in the Forradh did actually stand. 

Upon the southern slope of the hill is Rath Laoghaire, or "the Rath of 
Laoghaire," or Lowry, the king of Tara, at the time of St. Patrick's arrival ; who 
was buried in a standing position in it ; and at a quarter of a mile in the same 




Font at Kilcarn. 



264 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Carvings on the Font of Kilcarn. 



direction, among some trees crowning an adjoining elevation, is the great fort 
called the rath of Queen Meve. 

Beautiful views of the great plains from Trim to the wooded heights of Slane, 
and by the course of the Blackwater to the hill of Telltown, to Kells and the 

Mountains of Cavan are ob- 
tained from the pillar-stone, 
and the King's Chair on Tara 
Hill. 

St. Patrick, determining to 
strike paganism in its strong- 
hold, at once set out from the 
Boyne southward in the direc- 
tion of Tara, in the spring of 
A.D. 433. On his way he converted Seschnan and his family, one of whom was 
the noble youth who received the name of Benignus, and is famous in the history 
of the Irish Church as St. Bennan. The next day was Holy Saturday, and St. 
Patrick pitched his tent at Slane, and at nightfall lighted the paschal fire prepara- 
tory to the Easter solemnities. At the time King Laoghaire was at Tara, at- 
tended by a crowd of princes, chiefs and followers, for the purposes of a high 
festival, incidental to which was the lighting of a great fire.* The Paschal Fire 
on the Hill of Sldne illumi- 
nated the plain of Meath, and 
aroused indignation at the 
court, for it was a violation of 
law to light any fire on the 
occasion until that of Tara 
Hill was first visible. The 
king demanded who had dared 
to break the law. The Druids 
replied, that they knew who had made the fire, and " if it were not extinguished 
before morning it would never be extinguished ; and that the man who had kin- 
dled it would surpass kings and princes." " We will go forth and slay him who 

* Dr. O'Conor {Rer.Hibcr. Scrip., vol. i.), labors to show that this festival was that of Belliiine or Bealtaine, and 
Dr. Petrie, in his Essay on Tara Hill, appears to adopt that view; but Dr. O'Donovan, in his remarks on the division of 
the year among the ancient Irish, in the introduction to the Book of Rights, proves that there is no authority for this, 
opinion, and that in fact the fire of Beltinne wss always lighted at the hill of Uisneach, in Westmeath. JNI. F. Cusack, 
Life of St. Patrick, p. 253, adopts this view. The festivity which Laoghaire was celebrating, was prob-ibly that of his 
own birthday, as is stated in tlie Life of St. Patrick in the Book of Lisinorc. 




Carvings on the Font of Kilcarn. 



MEA TH. 265 

made the fire," cried the king and attended by Druids and chiefs went forth. 
Having forbidden any to rise or show respect to the stranger, the king ordered 
the Christians before him. When St. Patrick and his priests appeared — notwith- 
standing the king's mandate — Ere, the son of Dego, rose to salute him, offered 
him his place, and having given eager attention, became a Christian. This Ere 
was subsequently bishop of Slane ; and his hermitage, a romantic ruin in a grove 
of ancient yews, within the present demesne of Slane Castle, the seat of the Mar- 
quis of Conyngham, is an object of great interest at this day. 

St. Patrick was invited to attend at Tara on the next day to discuss with the 
Druids ; the king secretly planning an ambuscade to destroy the missionaries. St. 
Patrick, not unaware of the intended perfidy, but with confidence in the Divine 
power, robed in white, wearing his mitre, bearing the " staff of Jesus," and chant- 
ing a solemn hymn in Irish — still extant — reached the hill. Confronting the 
monarch and his Druids, and objects of wonder to the pagan assembly, stood the 
apostle, the youth Bennan, and the eight clerics. Here, as before, it was or- 
dered that no mark of honor should be shown to him ; but, also as before, there 
was one found to disobey ; Dubtach, the arch-poet, head of the bards of Erin, 
rising, and paying respect to the venerable stranger. Dubtach was the first con- 
vert that day. Having silenced the Druids in argument, the Saint made many 
converts, and so favorably impressed the king as to receive permission to preach 
his faith. 

Perhaps the most wonderful scene of which Tara was the theater since the 
visit of St. Patrick, was that in which O'Connell was the chief figure in August, 
1843, the year of the " monster Repeal meetings," when, as the London Times 
admitted, " a million of people were present " in response to the Tribune's call. 
It is eminently worthy of record, that, notwithstanding the commingling of multi- 
tudes from north, south, east, and west, so alive were the people to a sense of 
the dignity of the occasion, that no violation of law or good feeling occurred. 

By a northwesterly route from Tara we strike the Boyne at Bellinter, and 
crossing to the left bank, the student will find some interesting remains at Can- 
nistown and Kilcarn, especially the unique circular Choir Arch of the former, and 
the font of the latter. This beautiful relic was saved from destruction by an 
intelligent blacksmith named Walsh, who buried it, and exhumed it when an oc- 
casion presented to show it to Mr. Wakeman the antiquary and artist who made 
the drawings of it here reproduced. It is now set up in the neighboring Catholic 
chapel of Johnstown. It measures three feet six inches in height ; the basin 
being two feet ten inches in diameter, and thirteen inches deep. There are 



266 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



twelve niches on the exterior of the basin, the heads of which are enriched with 
graceful foliage. The buttresses between the niches are crocketed, the bases 
resting on grotesque figures as brackets. The figures within the niches are exe- 
cuted with care. They were, evidently, intended to represent the Saviour and 
the Twelve Apostles ; the former, crowned and holding the globe and cross, is in 
the act of blessing the Virgin Mary, who is also crowned. 
In the cuttings on the banks of the Boyne for the 
railroad from Drogheda to Navan and Kells, important 
discoveries were made. On the east side a large quan- 
tity of bridle-bits, and horse trappings of iron, bronze, 
and silver, rings, buckles, head-stalls, peytrells, and 
clasps, and a large collection of human and animal bones 
were found, which are in the Museum of the Royal 
Irish Academy in Dublin ; and on the west, an extensive 
souterrain, consisting of a straight passage fifty-three 
feet long, eight broad, and six high ; with two smaller 
passages at right angles, ending in circular beehive- 
shaped chambers. The whole formed the figure of a 
cross ; precisely similar to caves found at Clady near 
Newtown Bridge. The roof is of large, rough, undressed 
flag-stones, placed in position without cement. 

The Blackwater, running out of Lough Ramor in the 
County Cavan, enters Meath at Castle-Kieran, near 
which is the old church of St. Kieran (who died in 770), with the remains of five 
crosses, the most perfect of which we represent, and one of the most beautiful 
Holy Wells in Ireland shaded by an ancient and immense ash. Winding through 
fertile banks adorned by ruins, and enriched by venerable memories, the river 
unites with the Boyne at Navan. Midway between Navan and Kells on a green 
hill sloping from the water's edge, may be discerned the site of the palace of 
Tailtean (Teltown), one of the four royal residences of early Ireland, next in im- 
portance to, and from all appearance of greater extent than that of Tara. 

The fair of Tailtean with its Olympic Games was established a.m. 3370, 
and continued to the time of Roderick O'Conor : an account of which might 
occupy a volume. Kells is one of the most memorable places in early and 
medieval Irish history. Mention is made of it, dating to a.m. 3972. St. Co- 
lumba, having received a grant from Dermod, son of Fergus Kervaill, king of 
Ireland, founded the celebrated abbey of the Blessed Virgin here in a.d. 550. In 




St. Kieran's Cross. 



ME A TH. 



949, Godfrey with the Danes of Dubhn pkindered all this locality, and carried 
"upwards of three thousand persons into captivity, besides gold, silver, raiment, 
and various wealth, and goods of every description." In 1006, the famous Book 
of Kells was stolen from the sacristy. This book, subsequently recovered, and 
now in the library of Trinity College, Dublin, is described by Westwood, who is 
esteemed the highest authority on such a subject, as " unquestionably the most 
elaborately executed manuscript of early art now In existence." It contains the 
Gospels in Latin, with the introductions of St. Jerome; also charters copied 
into it while in the abbey, which prove, says O'Donovan, that " the ancient Irish 
committed their covenants to writing" in their :— ^, 

own language before the Anglo-Norman inva- 
sion." " Ireland," writes Mr. Westwood, " may 
justly be proud of the Book of Kells." From a 
comparison of it with the Gospels of Lindisfarne, 
and bearing in mind that Lindisfarne was colo- 
nized by the monks of lona or Columbkille, in 
634, only forty years after Columbkille's death, 
he thinks there is "no great reason for doubt- 
ing that this volume might have belonged to that 
celebrated saint." For beauty and splendor of 
execution, it is not surpassed by that of any age. 
Digby Wyatt in vain attempted to copy its illu- 
minations. " The colors still so fresh and charm- 
ingly harmonious," says the artist-author, Henry 
O'Neill, " what can they be to have lasted 
through so many hundreds of years ? The instruments, how exquisitely neat they 
must have been ! Where were they made ? Who made them ? How steady and 
practiced must have been the hands by which the lines were drawn ! There is in 
one'of these illuminations a composition of a series of lines forming an intricate 
pattern ; these lines are so fine that they are invisible to the naked eye ! Had 
these Irish artists of old lenses to aid them, so that they, with their wonderful 
dexterity, might execute what we nowadays require strong magnifiers to discern ?" 
Hugh de Lacy re-edified and endowed the abbey, and the town being forti- 
fied with a castle and wall became a great stronghold of the Pale. In 1203, the 
town was burned; and again in 1316, by Edward Bruce, who defeated Roger 
Mortimer. The landed property of the abbey was immense, and the last abbot. 
Rev. Richard Plunkett, in 1539 was forced to surrender it and all its possessions 




Rmina Tni 1.7 Dm ij;kmore 



268 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



to Henry VIII. Such surrender, says Cobbett, being "precisely of the nature of 
those ' voluntary surrenders ' which men make of their purses when the robber's 
pistol is at their temple, or his blood-stained knife at their throat." No vestige 
of abbey or church is visible. A round tower, about one hundred feet in height, 

stands by the cemetery, 
near it some sculptured 
crosses, and a small arched 
stone-roofed building, 
known as St. Columbkille's 
oratory. The great cross, 
the top of which is broken 
off, stands in the market 
place, a splendid relic of 
massive elegance. 

A mile from Navan 
on the road to Slane, and 
adjoining the woodland 
demesne of Blackcastle, 
are the ruins of the Round 
Tower and Church of 
Donoghmore, the latter of 
which was, it is believed, a 
foundation of St. Patrick, 
who bestowed it on his 
disciple Cassanus. The 
tower is a fine specimen, 
sixty-six feet six inches 
in circumference near the 
base, and one hundred feet 

Distant View of Dangan Castle. ^^^ ^^ ^j^^ ^j^^^^ ^f ^j^^ 

roof. The wall is three feet nine inches in thickness, and the arched doorway, 
which is twelve feet from the ground, has a figure of the Saviour cut in relief 
partly on the key-stone, and partly on the stone over it, which supplies Petrie with 
one of his arguments in favor of the Christian origin of the towers. 

Those who love to indulge the sensations evoked by localities made famous by 
genius may, either from Kells or Navan, visit Nobber, the birth-place of the great 
bard Turlough O'Carolan, and the fairy rath, where the blind harper and poet 




AIEA TH. 



269 



used to He for hours holding, It was thought, entranced communion with the fay- 
queen, and her court within it. While on this subject it will not be out of place, 
before we continue our course by the Boyne, to refer to other scenes in Meath, 
Laracor and Dangan, associated with the names and memories of two other Irish- 
men of world-wide fame — Dean Swift and the Duke of Wellington. 

The " Iron Duke " was born in Dangan Castle, the family seat of the Wesleys, 
some five miles from Trim. He was baptized in Dublin, which gave rise to a 




Swift Piriih Lkuic/i t/ Lii ico? 



supposition, now dispelled, that he was born in that city. He passed many of his 
days of boyhood at Dangan, resided some time in Trim in the house at the corner 
of Dublin-Gate Street, and represented that borough in the Irish Parliament, 
where, in the Reports of 1 793, he appeared as Captain A. Wesley. These asso- 
ciations were no doubt influential in suggesting the monument (represented' on 
page 251), which tells its own story in the inscription — " This column, erected in 
the year MDCCCXVIL, in Honour of the Illustrious Duke of Wellington, by 
the Grateful Contributors of the County Meath." Dangan was described in the 
early days of the duke's father, i 748, by Mrs. Delany, who was his godmother, as 



270 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

a magnificent place, with a gravel walk fifty-two feet wide and six hundred yards 
long- from the house to the lake, which was twenty-six acres in extent, all set in a 
park of more than eight hundred acres. It passed from the Wellesleys, and has long 
presented a rather picturesque aspect of ruinous dilapidation.* Roger O'Connor 
became an occupant of the castle and estate, and greatly despoiled it of everything 
that could be coined into money ; and finally, having been heavily insured, it was 
found to be on fire, and almost demolished before aid could be obtained. Roger's 
son, Fergus O'Connor, widely known as a member of Parliament, and the leader 
of the Chartist movement in England more than thirty years ago, was born in 
the same apartment in which the Duke of Wellington first saw the light in 
Dangan. 

Nearer to Trim, and in the vicinity of Dangan, is the still more interesting 
locality — that of Laracor — associated with the memory of Swift and Stella. After 
having been cheated out of the better prospect afforded by a deanery in Derry, 
the satirical young churchman, in 1699, then thirty-two years old, was inducted 
into the rectory of Agher, and the vicarages of Laracor and Rathbeggan, in the 
diocese of Meath. Inducing Stella, then in the heyday of her youth and beauty, 
and her matronly friend, Mrs. Dingley, to take up their residence near by, they, 
with Dr. Raymond, the vicar of Trim so often mentioned in Swift's journals, 
sauntered through the rural lanes, or by the river, near to the bridge over which 
stood the glebe and well-kept gardens. Of Swift's residence, only a portion of 
a gable wall was standing a few years since. The old parish church, where he 
officiated and won a reputation, remains. It contains a handsome monument to 
the last Wesley, or Wellesley, who bequeathed his name and estate to the ances- 
tor of Wellington. It used to be attended by the Wesleys, and recentl}' contained 
" the hangings of the communion table, the reading-desk, and the pulpit, the 
same as had been used in the private chapel of Dangan, and were removed to 
this church when the Wellesley family left." The handsome rectory in Trim 
was later a favorite residence of Maria Edgeworth, whose sister was married to 

* The duke's grandfather was Richard CoUey, of Castle Carbury in the County Kildare ; who in 172S, succeeded to 
the estates, and assumed the arms and surname of his cousin Garrett Wesley, Esq., of Dangan, County Meath. In 1746 
he was created Baron Mornington, and dying in 1758, was succeeded by his only son Garrett, who m 1760 was elevated to 
be Viscount Wellesley of Dangan Castle, and Earl of Mornington. This Earl of Mornington (of whom and his wife 
Anne, the future hero of Waterloo was the fifth son) was distinguished as a musician, and the composer of vocal music 
for church choirs and glee clubs, of undeniable merit ; of the latter class. Gently hear me, charming maid : Come, fairest 
nymph; and bird of eve, are referred to by musical critics as being distinguished by taste, feeling, animation, and harmony ; 
while his Here in cool p-ot, which won the gold medal of the Catch Club in 1779, is esteemed as a masterpiece, " a work 
of real genius." He was llie founder and leader of the band of the " Musical Academy," a society of the nobility and 
gentry for benevolent pur|io<;cs in Dublin ; and was created a Doctor of Music liy the University. 



MEA TH. 



271 



Dr. Butler, rector of Trim, and dean of Clonmacnoise ; who was indefatigable 
in collecting information on the subject of the castle and the surrounding anti- 
quities. 

Resuming our observations from Navan, and pursuing the direction to Slane, 
we take another view of the interesting ruins at Donoghmore, pass the single 
remaining arch of the Robber's Bridge, of predatory tradition, below the abrupt 
precipitous hill, Knockminaune, and behold Ardmulchan Church on the right, and. 




, DonogJimorc Abbey. 

at a slight distance, Dunmoe Castle on the left bank of the river. The ruins 
of the former stand on one of the highest banks (Arcl-melchon Melchu's height) ; 
and there is evidence that some materials of an earlier building were used in the 
erection of the tall square tower. A kistvaen, or small stone chamber, containing 
skeletons, urns, and golden ornaments, was discovered some years back here ; 
and the bells of the church are said to have been thrown into a deep pool in the 
river, called the Blue Hole, at the time of the Reformation. A very beautiful 
well, below Ardmulchan, is worthy of a visit ; also, at a short distance from the 
church, an ancient military fort, consisting of a circular mound with fosse and 



272 • PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

rampart. It is now covered by a grove of ash trees, through whose tall and slender 
stems the outline of the old relic can be seen at a considerable distance. 

Charming as is the scenery of the Boyne from below Trim, it is from this point, 
in Wilde's opinion, that its Rhine-like characteristics become effectively apparent to 
the artistic eye. For the next few miles we have high, beetling crags, crowned by 
feudal halls and walls and ruined chapels ; steep and sometimes precipitous banks 
covered with the noblest monarchs of the forest ; and lovely dells, with ever-vary- 
ing bits of charming scenery, presenting new beauties at every turn of the stream. 

On a commanding eminence above one of the fords of the Boyne stands Dun- 
moe Castle, which must have been, in the days of the Pale, a place of considerable 
strength. The original structure at this important point was probably built by 
De Lacy, but the existing remains indicate an Anglo-Norman keep of the sixteenth 
century. It is an oblong pile, with circular flanking towers, presenting a front of 
seventy-three feet to the river. It was, unfortunately, built of small stones, in 
consequence of which it is yearly crumbling into decay and ruins. Since it pre- 
sented the appearance given in our sketch, the castle has suffered much dilapida- 
tion ; but, like a scarred and battered veteran, it has many tales of the wars. It 
has stood several sieges, and has had a variety of masters. During the civil wars 
of 1 64 1, after the defeat of the English at Julianstown, an Irish detachment was 
sent against Dunmoe ; but the latter, bafifled by the commander, a Captain Power, 
only entrapped him by a stratagem, and induced him to surrender. Oliver Crom- 
well gave it a passing salute, but no more formidable recognition ; and a cannon 
ball, which for some two centuries was used as a weight in a neighboring crane, was 
said to be the identical one he fired at it. The castle was re-edified while James 
II. was in Ireland. Its last lord was D'Arcy, whose name is now usually asso- 
ciated with it, and whose mausoleum, in a very neglected condition, is in a small 
chapel in an adjoining inclosure. It is a current belief among the peasantry that 
an underground passage and tunnel leads from it under the Boyne to the opposite 
side. Near Ardmulchan is Hayes, the seat of the Earl of Mayo. At Stackallan, 
over the Broad Boyne Bridge, is a holy (St. Patrick's) well, and in the vicinity the 
residence of Viscount Boyne, once occupied as the College of St. Columba. 
Proceeding toward Slane we move amid delightful scenery : passing the wood- 
crowned heights and leafy banks of Beauparc ; the ivy-mantled walls of Castle- 
Dexter, over the dark plantation on the opposite river-side, until rise before us the 
modern castle of Slane, and farther down the ancient abbey ruins. 

No one with a Christian spirit, and even faintly excited by the charm of his- 
torical stud)^, can fail to pause and ponder at Slane. Resting on the venerable 




DUNMOE CASTLE. 



2/4 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



tombstone beneath the ivy-mantled tower, which was the belfry of the old cathedral 
abbey, once gorgeous with shrines, illuminated by votive tapers, whose places are 
usurped by the hemlock and purple foxglove, we readily realize the pictures 
which " hang on memory's walls," presenting scenes and acts in the early mission 
life of the Apostle of Ireland, and the pagan powers and practices contemporane- 
ous with them. The ground we stand upon is truly sacred ground. If the scenes 
conjured before the mind's eye are impressive, equally beautiful and suggestive of 
a pageant of history are the scenes presented to the actual vision, if climbing to 

the broken battlements of the 
- - - -' 5.E"^^3s*=^ - _ - tower summit, we gaze below 

and around. From the towers 
and steeples of Trim, we trace 
the windings of the blue Boyne 
to the meeting of the sea and 
sky below the Maiden ToAver, 
at Drogheda. We follow it, 
passing through the highly cul- 
tivated landscape ; view the 
hills of Tara and Skreen, the 
woods and demesnes of Hayes, 
Ardmulchan, Blackcastle, Beau- 




Tlie Boyne from Old-Bridge. 



pare ; look down over the green mounds and pasture lands of Slane, and follow the 
river as it dances by rapid and ford to where the great pyramids of Western Europe, 
Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth, rise on its left bank ; while beyond, on the 
right-hand curve, Old-Bridge and the hill of Donore mark the battle-field of 
1690, where the scepter of the line of Stuart may be said to have passed from 
their hands forever ; and each hill and ford recalls heroic names — Sarsfield, 
Hamilton, Berwick, Schomberg, Caillemote. In the distance stands Duleek, and 
beyond the hill-line of Louth, are Monasterboice and Mellifont, in the latter of 
which Devorgilla, the " falsest of women," ended her life in prayer and penitence. 
In the lower distance the echoes of Cromwellian cannonading comes from those 
steeples and. turrets, and, jutting out, above them, is the Mill Mount of Drogheda. 
As Wilde says : " The records and footprints of two thousand years are all be- 
fore us: the solemn procession of the simple shepherd to the early pagan mound ; 
the rude slinger standing on the earthen circle ; the Druid fires, paling before the 
bright sun of Christianity ; the cadence of the round tower's bell : the matin and the 
vesper hymns swelling from the hermit's cell, or early missionary church ; the proud 



ME A TH. 



275 




galleys and glancing swords of fierce northern hordes ; the smoking ruins of church 
and tower ; the shout of rival clans in civil feuds ; the lances and banners of 
Norman soldiers ; the moat, and fosse, and drawbridge of the keep, still echoing 
back the strife of hostile ranks . . . have, one and all, their epochs, ruins, 
sites, or history legibly inscribed upon this picture." 

There formerly stood, probably on the site of these ruins, a round tower, often 
referred to in ancient records, which was destroyed by the Danes in the tenth 
century. It is said that, in the year 653, Dagobert, a child of seven years, sub- 
sequently king of Aus- 

trasia, was sent to Slane, _ ^^_^=^ . _ _--_ 

and after attaining " ed- - - _ ~^ '^ _ 

ucation proper for the ^ 

enjoyment of a throne," 
was recalled to France 
and placed in govern- 
ment. Many remarka- 
ble tombs are found in _^ 

the neighborhood of 
these ruins, and the an- 
cient font, an unorna- 
mented octagon, in the overgrowth of weeds within the remains of the. church. 

In addition to the great abbeys and extensive ecclesiastical foundations in 
Meath, there were numerous small chapels Or oratories, called cills, or cells, 
erected principally near the residences of territorial chieftains ; and sometimes on 
the sites of decayed monasteries, or on spots consecrated by the lives of holy men 
and anchorites. Not infrequently they had their origin in a pious vow, or for 
the support of an ecclesiastic whose of^ce was to pray for the soul of the founder. 
Here, within a distance of only eight miles, there are nine of the smaller kind of 
chapels, of which we are here particularly speaking, alternately placed on either 
bank of the Boyne — Fennar, Monk-Newtown, Rosnaree, Dowth, Donore, New- 
town-Drogheda, Stagruman, Beaulieu, and Mornington. They are generally of the 
same character, with low side-walls, and the gables rising with high, pointed pedi- 
ments. A fair specimen is found at Kilsharvan, about four miles south of the 
Boyne, a mile and a half east of Duleek, on the banks of the Nanny River. 

Two miles below Slane is Rosnaree {Ros-na-Righ, the Wood of the Kings), 
and upon the opposite swelling bank are a series of mounds, raths, forts, caves, 
circles, and pillar stones, all ancient pagan sepulchral monuments, identified as 



Mound of New Grange. 



276 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



forming " the Irish Memphis, or city of tombs," the Brugh na Boinne. At Ros- 
naree was buried one of the grandest characters of ancient Ireland, King Cormac 
Mac Art, who died at Clety in 266. Having lost an eye, and it being " not lawful 
that a king with a blemish should reside at Tara," Cormac spent some years pre- 
vious to his death in retirement, and in the study of philosophy, literature and reli- 
gion. His discourses with the Druids were not satisfactory to his ideas, and he is 
said to have been the third person in Ireland who, if he did not positively ac- 
cept Christianity, was illuminated with the truth of the Christian faith, before the 








Ruins of Dangaii Castle. 



coming of Saint Patrick. This accounts for his burial at Rosnaree. He charged 
his attendants not to lay his body in Brugh, because it was, though royal, the 
cemetery of idolaters ; but at Rosnaree, with his face to the east, in token of the 
revelation of heavenly light coming from that point. After his death, however, 
his council deemed it more becoming to the honor of so great a prince that he 
should lie with his predecessors, the kings of Tara. Thrice they raised his body 
to carry it over the river, and each time the Boyne swelled to such a height as to 
render the ford impassable. This circumstance was regarded as an evidence of 
the violation of the king's testamentary desire, and he was finally laid at rest in 
Rosnaree. Of Cormac, the Aiinals of the Four Masters say he " composed 



Carving in Eastern Recess. 




Ent> ance to Ga, 



Ca?vc(i iitoiu on hititior 



ANCIEMT REMAINS AT NE-W GRANQE. 



278 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



precepts for kings, tracts on the customs and tributes, and on the ordinations of 
kings : he was well versed in the laws, as well as In historical and chronological 
researches ; he planned rules for the judges, and right principles of equity in mat- 
ters of agreements ; " and that he " was also the person who collected the chroni- 
cles of Ireland into one place, Tara, until he ordained that they should be written 




Kihha7-van Church. 

out into one book, called the Psalter of Tara. In that book were the acts and 
synchronisms of the kings of Ireland, with the kings and emperors of the world, 
and the provincial kings of Ireland." 

In the notice of the eight, of the several, royal burial places in Ireland, con- 
tained in the Senchas-na-Relec, or History of the Cemeteries, compiled in the 
twelfth century in Clonmacnoise, we find that the Brugh na Boinne was the most 
celebrated and extensive. This great necropolis extends nearly three miles along 
the left bank of the river from Knowth to Netterville demesne, and about a mile 
in width from the river's bank. Within this space are the remains of seventeen 
sepulchral barrows : the smaller situated in the green pasture lands forming the 



ME A TH. 



279 



Valley of the Boyne, while the three of monumental magnitude, Knowth, New- 
Grange, and Dowth, are on the summit of the ridge over the valley. These are 
within sight of, and a mile distant from, each other. The first met with is Knowth, 
an abrupt, hemispherical mound, rising out of the sloping hill of the townland, 
from which it takes its name. Its top is rather flat, and its base was surrounded 
by huge masses of stone. Excavations show it to be an enormous cairn of small 

stones, eighty feet high, occupying a surface 
of an acre, now covered with rich sward. 

New Grange is also an enormous cairn of 
small stones on the summit of a natural undulat- 
ing slope, covering about two acres, 400 paces 
in circumference, and now eighty feet higher 
than the natural surface ; a pillar stone origin- 
ally stood on the summit. Its height has been 
lessened and its outline impaired by its having 
been used for years as a quarry for building ma- 
terial and road repairs. It is now partly covered 
by a growth of hazel trees. This stupendous 
relic of pagan times, perhaps one of the oldest 
Celtic monuments in the world, has elicited the 
attention, and called forth the wonder and admi- 
ration of nearly every distinguished antiquary, 
not only of the British Isles, but of Europe generally. It was also, like Knowth, 
surrounded by a circle of huge blocks of stones, thirty feet apart, ten of which are 
yet visible above ground on the southeastern side. In removing some stones for 
a road, an opening was accidentally discovered nearly two hundred years ago, and 
the earliest published descriptions of it by Edward Llhwyd, the Welsh antiquary 
and keeper of the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, and. Sir Thomas Molyneux, ap- 
peared about the same time.* The opening disclosed a gallery and chamber, both 
formed of stones of great magnitude, placed together without mortar. That such 
Cyclopean masonry could have been erected by a people probably unacquainted 
with the mechanical powers deemed necessary for the erection of modern edifices 
excites astonishment and thought. This is increased by the fact that although 
some of the stones, both within and without the cairn, bear marks of being water- 
worn, and were, perhaps, lifted from the bed of the Boyne, others belong to a 




Nortlwrn Crypt in Nciu Grange. 



* It appears that Llhwyd's, dated from Sligo, March 12, l6gg, was published in 'Rov.AslwA's Mtvui Aii/iqiia Jicslaic- 
raUj. \~11'},\ Molyneux's Discoursf. Concerning Danish JllozindSj Forts, and Towers in Iretand WtVi published 1725. 



28o 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 





class of rock not found in the neighborhood at all ; some are basaltic, and others 
must have been transported here from the Mourne Mountains, on the coast of 
Down. 

A few years ago the removal of the rubbish about the entrance disclosed what 
was thought a new discovery in a remarkably carved stone, but Llhwyd had al- 
ready described it as "a great fllat stone, like a large tombstone, placed edgeways, 
having on the outside certain barbarous carvings, like snakes encircled, but with- 
out heads." And here the circumstances may be noticed, that ornamental carv- 
ings of spiral, lozenge, zigzag, fern-leaf, and other patterns — such as decorate an- 
cient torques and weapons discovered 
in Ireland, are found on stones not 
only exposed to view, but on surfaces 
which until some recent dilapidation 
were entirely concealed ; and also on 
some which were not apparently in- 
tended for view. It is plain they were 
carved before they were placed in 
their present positions, and suggest 
the idea — which enhances still more 
their antiquity — that they were used 
for some anterior purpose. 

The passage, sixty-three feet in length, runs nearly north and south, and is 
formed of twenty-one upright stones on the right, and twenty-two on the left 
hand, and is roofed with flags of immense length (one is seventeen feet long and 
six wide), resting, in some places, on the upright stones, and in others on masonry 
external to the latter, which are not of equal height. The general height of the 
passage is six feet, for about three-fourths of its length. It then suddenly rises, 
and again, within seventeen feet of the chamber, it rises so as to slope gradually 
into its roof ; the stones composing this portion are gigantic, many of them being 
eight and ten feet high. The passage leads to a large dome-roofed chamber. 
As all is perfect darkness within the mound, a light is necessary to convey any 
idea of its extent. The chamber is nearly circular, with three offsets, one oppo- 
site the entrance, and one on each side east and west, the ground plan with the 
passage thus forming the figure of a cross. The side of the chamber to the 
height of ten feet is formed of a circle of eleven upright stones, their flat surfaces 
facing inward. From this course springs the dome — of stones somewhat less in 
size, placed horizontally on the flat with the edges toward the interior. Each 



Mound of Do-duth. 



ME A TH. 



281 



layer projects slightly over that beneath, and thus decreasing, the circles form a 
dome without an arch, the whole being closed at top by one large slab ; the 
stability of the structure being preserved by the mass of surrounding material. 
The dome is twenty feet high, with an area of about seventeen. In each recess 
is a hollowed stone oval basin, that in the right-hand chamber being three feet 
long, standing on a larger and shallower basin. That these rude bowls contained 
human remains, Wilde has little doubt. The bones of two bodies, entire, not 
burned, with many bones of beasts and pieces of deer's horns, were found in the 

discovery in 1699 ; but Wilde is convinced that the 

mound had been examined long prior. There is 
no doubt that this venerable tumulus met the fate 
of others at the hands of the Danes, who, as records 
show, rifled many of the ancient sepulchers in search 
of gold and other treasures. 

Thomas Davis, speaking of this remarkable 
structure, says : " History is too young to have 
noted its origin. Archseology knows not its time. 
It is a legacy from a forgotten ancestor, to prove 
that he, too, had art and religion. It may have 
marked the tomb of a hero who freed, or an invader 
who subdued — a Brian or a Strongbow. But 
whether or not a hero's or a saint's bones conse- 
crated it at first, this is plain, it is a temple of nigh two thousand years, perfect 
as when the last pagan sacrificed within it. It is a thing to be proud of, as a 
proof of Ireland's antiquity, to be guarded as an illustration of her early creed 
and arts. It is one of a thousand muniments of an old nationality, which a 
national government would keep safe." And an article quoted by Davis from 
the London Athcncsum, showing of what great interest to the English antiquarian 
was the knowledge and preservation of Irish antiquities, speaks of New Grange 
as "that most gigantic relic of Druidical times, which has justly been termed the 
Irish pyramid." 

The Mound of Dowth, not as broad at the base, is more conical than that of 
New Grange. The former, situated on one of the higher slopes of the river 
bank, is a mile distant from the latter. Traces of the surrounding stone circle 
still remain. Formed of loose stones, a verdant sod had covered its surface, 
which was partially disturbed by the explorations undertaken at the request of 
the Royal Irish Academy in 1847. These examinations disclosed a gallery run- 




Entrance to Gallery, Dowth. 



282 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



ning eastward, formed of huge stones and roofed with, large flags, leading to a 
chamber of a cruciform shape, formed, with slight exceptions, in the same manner 
as that of New Grange. Some of the stones in the passage, which is twenty- 
seven feet long, are rudely decorated with carved circles and curved and zigzag 
lines. Both in the passage and at the entrances of several of the minor crypts 
and recesses which branch from the chamber, are sills, formed by large sunken 
flags, projecting above the surface apparently for the purpose of preventing the 

displacement of the side walls by ex- 




Caillemote's Grave. 



ternal pressure. The chamber is an 
irregular oval, nine feet four inches by 
seven feet ; and the blocks of stone 
which form its upright pillars are fully 
as large, and are similarly carved as 
those in New Grange. Other carved 
figures are discovered here, some in 
wheel-like and concentric forms, some 
resembling the Ogham character, and 
in some instances the lotus, or lily-leaf, 
cut with such precision as to give at 
first view the appearance of a fossil. 
On examination it is found that the leaves stand out half an inch in relief, while 
the stone for many feet surrounding has been carefully picked away. In the 
center of the chamber stands a shallow stone basin, much larger than those in 
New Grange. From the west angle of the southern recess a passage leads by a 
narrow entrance into another series of chambers and passages. The floor of the 
southern gallery is formed by a single stone, ten feet six inches long, its center 
being hollowed into a shallow oval, capable of holding about a gallon of fluid. 
In the excavations, sling-stones, fragments of human heads, as well as burned 
human bones within the chamber, bones of animals, and glass and amber beads, 
bone bodkins, copper pins, and iron knives and rings were found. In the neigh- 
borhood of these mounds are many curious remains. 

A few miles south of the pagan monuments, and in striking contrast from 
its early Christian memories is Duleek, which derives its name from Daim-liag — 
stone house, or church. Though this church is the eighth in order of time, raised 
by St. Patrick or his disciples, it was, in all probability, the very first built of 
stone in Ireland. It was founded by St. Kienan — born about a.d. 442 ; and was 
anciently called Daim-liag-Cianain — the stone church of Kienan. A daimliag 



ME A TH. 



283 





meant not only a stone building, such as the Cyclopean works and cloughans 
alluded to in Kerry and Galway, but an edifice put together with lime, mortar or 
other cement. Its roof was cemented stone, though more frequently of wood 
and reeds. That stone churches soon became common in Ireland from the 
earliest Christian period seems incontrovertible from the fact that daimliag was 
the Gaelic name by which Irish writers designated a cathedral or abbey church, 
although they also used the 
terms tempull, eclais, regies, 
baslic indifferently, words evi- 
dently adopted from the Latin. 
Irish annalists, when writing 
in Latin, invariably rendered 
the daimliag by ecclesia, or 
■basilica, and, when writing in 
Irish, they used daimliag, tem- 
p2ill, eclais, and regies, indis- 
criminately to the same build- 
ings. These terms were never 
applied to a wooden church, 

which was invariably designated by oratorium, and when the oratory was not of 
wood, by oratoritim lapidem. An ancient tract of the Brehon laws in Trinity 
College, Dublin, and the Book of Ballymote enumerate the wages of the Ollambh 
Saer or chief builder for stone and wood, and it is remarked that the most dis- 
tinguished branches of his profession are the construction of the daimliag and the 
durtheach (house of oak), the principal forms of ancient ecclesiastical structures.* 
Duleek was the first bishop's see created in Ireland, and was suppressed or 
" merged " by Simon de Rochfort. Its rich abbey was a constant temptation to 
the Danes, by whom it was frequently plundered and fired. After the battle of 
Clontarf the body of King Brian was rested at the abbey here on its way to 
Armagh. A notable attraction is the ruin, and the handsome ivy-clad tower 
closely resembling that at Slane. 

Northeast of Dowth is Old Bridge, and directly east of it the hill of Donore, 
localities which indicate the area on which was fought what is known as " The 
Battle of the Boyne." We have given a view from Old Bridge ; near it is the spot, 
between two elm trees, pointed out as the grave of Caillemote, the leader of the 
Huguenot adherents of William, who received a mortal wound as his troops were 



Donore Hill and Church Ruins. 



* See Petrie's Round Towers, etc.; Dean Cogan's Meath, vol. i., pp. 23-31. 



284 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



being routed by the Irish horse under Hamilton. Donore Hill has a sad interest 
as being the place where, near the church now in ruins, James H. pitched his tent 
on the night before the battle, and from which he was the inglorious spectator of 
it. About midway between Old Bridge and Donore, on a bridle road between 
the latter and the river, is the old farmhouse — called The Sheep-House — which' 

is a monument to the Irish gal- 
lantry of that ill-fated day. The 
Irish held it obstinately. It be- 
came the rallying point of the 
Jacobites, and was taken and re- 
taken several times ; being vigor- 
ously attacked by the troops of 
William, and as resolutely held 
by the Irish while a hope re- 
mained. Taking a view of this 
relic of heroism, we may fitly 
quit the scene, and cross the 
border of Meath. 

While crossing, it however, we 
are reminded of the recent (March, 1879) and prolonged visit of her Imperial 
Majesty Elizabeth, Empress of Austria, adding another to the many royal 
reminiscences of Meath — in her case the most peaceful of any save those of the 
young princes who sought it for education. The empress takes exceeding 
pleasure in the chase, and on the famous hunting grounds of Meath, the most 
extensive in the United Kingdoms, the imperial huntress found such welcome 
and delight as, it is said, will lead to a renewal of both in the succeeding season. 




The Old Sheep-House. 




Tarn Brooch. 




Cui>iri-ht, ISTO by Thomas IvtlJy, New York 




CopjTlght W7ti, by tboums iCelly/Nuw Yuri:. 



WESTMEATH. 




7^ ^i:^?^*. ^s. 






Miiltifa-nain Ahlnj. 

Westmeath formed a part of the ancient kingdom of Meath, remaining 
intact with it during and after the Anglo-Norman palatinate, and down to the 
middle of the sixteenth century, when by an act of the 34th of Henry VIII. it 
was constituted a separate county. Its history, therefore, is in the main identi- 
cal with that of the famous old territory ; wanting, however, in the peculiar 
importance and antiquarian value which distinguish Brugh-na-Boinne, Tara, 

285 



286 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Slane, and other venerable localities associated with the earliest records, as well 
as some other places of much' later date, though still ancient as to time, and of 
absorbing interest as to incident. The site of one of the four ancient royal 
palaces, that on the hill of Usneach, is within the boundary of Westmeath, and 
it also contains remains of the earlier period, and of the Anglo-Normans. 

In a picturesque aspect Westmeath is not so uniformly level as Meath ; and 
while not mountainous, it is happily not deficient in the essentials of rural beauty, 
as it is diversified by hill and dale, and unusually well watered by lakes, the 
principal of which are Lough Iron or Hiern, Lough Ennel, Lough Derivaragh, 
Lough Owel and Lough Lein. The expansion of the Shannon into Lough Ree, 
which is twenty miles long from Lanesborough to near Athlone, may be con- 
sidered as partially belonging to Westmeath as it forms the principal boundary 
between it and Roscommon. A number of smaller loughs, as Sheelin and Kinale 
on the northwestern limit toward Cavan, Deel and Bawn on the side of Meath, 
Glinn toward Longford, Scudy on the west, and those of Drin, Cullen, Clons- 
hever, Maghan, Waterston, with the rivers Brosna and Inny, add many attractions 
to the rural features of the county. The scenery of these lakes is in general, as- 
Brewer says, marked by a soothing air of tranquillity rather than by any startling^ 
contrasts, or by " the majestic graces which dignify the banks of some Inland 
waters." There are, however, numerous spots which might inspire a wish similar 
to that of the colonel who, marching across the country In the wars of the seven- 
teenth century, halted on the banks of Derivaragh, and " was so taken with the 
amenity of the prospect, and the beauty of the landscape, and the most ravishing 
echoes that redoubled to him the noise of his trumpets, that he exclaimed he 
never carne to the like place, and is said to have wished he could, even then, 
with leisure and safety, sit down and take up his rest here." The points of in- 
terest can be visited without much toil or trouble. The Royal Canal enters the 
county from Meath, north of Kinnegad, and passing Killucan, Mullingar — the 
chief town, where its summit level Is 274 feet above high water in Dublin Bay — 
Ballynca, Ballynacarrig, crosses the Inny by an aqueduct and enters the County 
Longford near TInellick. The Grand Canal, entering from the King's County 
near Rahne, proceeds to Kilbeggan. Mullingar has also railway communica- 
tion with Dublin, by which the lakes are of easy access to the angler. 

Lough Ennell (or Belvidere), which Is five miles long and one and a quarter 
broad, is about two miles south of the town. A part of the western shore near 
Dysart is naturally beautiful ; on the northern and eastern sides improvements 
have been made, but the southern Is tame and unattractive to the artistic eye. 



WESTMEA TH. 



287 



Lough Owel is about the same extent and Hes three miles north of the town. It 
is a deep clear sheet of water, fed by internal springs, and forms the chief supply 
of the Royal Canal. Though not bold, the shores have considerable elevation, 
are fertile, finely diversified, and partially wooded. Fraser thinks that its deep 
pellucid waters, tiny islets, and sweetly varied shores entitle it to rank among 
" the most beautiful of our inland lakes." It is seen to great advantage from the 
road leading to Longford. Lough Iron, half the size of Ennel or Owel, is a mile 




Old Gateway at Fore. 

and a half west of the latter ; and Derivaragh, six miles north of MuUingar, is of 
remarkable form, being at its lower end three miles in length by two in breadth, 
where it projects an arm four miles long by one third of a mile in width. At the 
head of the lake is the hill of Knockeyan, 707 feet above the sea level and 500 
above that of the lake, a striking conical and commanding eminence. 

Multifernam is the first station on the branch line from MuUingar to Long- 
ford and Cavan. The abbey or monastery, charmingly situated on a low isolated 
plot of ground convenient to Lough Derivaragh, was founded — according to 
Archdall and others — in a.d. 12-36, by William Delamer, " in honor of God and 
St. Francis." Its name signifies " Fearnan's Mill," from a family having pos- 
session anterior to the Delamers. The monastery was very capacious, and 
the church, which is still surmounted by a graceful belfry, of exquisite ar- 
chitecture. Although it survived, it did not escape the persecution, having 



288 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




been burned or plundered and the 
friars imprisoned in 1590, 1601, 1604, 
161 3, 1 614, and 161 7. It never was 
deserted, even when desecrated, the 
community and lay brothers returning 
and living in cabins within its boun- 
daries. It has peculiar historical in- 
terest as the place where, it is said, 
the great Confederate rising of 1641 
was concocted. Situated in the cen- 
ter of the island and a place of great 
resort for religious purposes, the as- 
semblage of large numbers there at 
any particular time was less liable to 
suspicion than other places. In the 
Williamite War the county also suf- 
fered ; so much indeed, that — owing to 
the change of property occasioned by 
confiscations — none of the names of 
persons who formed previous grand 
juries could be found on modern lists. 
On the north side of the hill which 
bounds Lough Lein is the village of 
Fore. The ruins of its ancient mon- 
astery, founded by St. Fechin in 630, 
and restored by Walter de Lacy in 
1209, and the remains of the gates 
and wall which inclosed it testify to 
the former importance of the place. 
In the earliest times three hundred 
monks, all of whom subsisted by their 
own labor, assembled here around St. 
Fechin, of whom many miracles are re- 
lated. No female was permitted to en- 
ter the monastic precincts, even for the 
purpose of milking cows. In the reign 
of Edward III. a tax was levied on 



WESTMEA TH. 289 

all goods brought to Fore, Mullingar, or Multifernam, or conveyed thence, for 
the purpose of paving Fore, and erecting a wall and fortifications. In 1539 the 
abbey was seized by Henry VIII. 

A subterranean stream from Lough Lein turns a small mill in the village, 
just as it issues from the rock. This stream may have given the name to 
the place, which according to O'Donovan was, traditionally and locally, Baile 
J^obhar, the town of the spring. This lonely town lies at the head of a val- 
ley under the cliffy hill called the Ben of Fore, 710 feet high ; and near 
the other end is the small Lough Glore, well known to anglers. Monastic 
ruins — at Farranemanagh, Kilbeggan, Kilmocahill — are still in existence, and 
vestiges of remote antiquity may be traced at Ballintubber and Moycashel, 
tut those known to have existed at Tristernagh, and other places, are de- 
stroyed. 

The famed hill of Usneach — supposed to be Laberos, the inland city men- 
tioned by Ptolemy — a long, swelling eminence, lying east and west, is four miles 
northwest of the Castletown station of the Midland Railway. Here great con- 
ventions of the States were held. Here, too, Tuathal the acceptable instituted 
the feast of Beltane ; where, ever after, the pagan Irish celebrated their festivi- 
ties and lighted their Druidic fires on the first of May. After the abandonment 
of Tara, Usneach was probably one of the chief places for legislative meetings. 
The hill has never been submitted to the plow. It has two summits, one of 
which, the eastern, is occupied by an ancient cemetery. A broad avenue, the 
lines of which are still traceable, led to it from the south. A paper read by 
Ferguson, the poet, before the Royal Irish Academy, in 1872, presented some 
interesting facts, accompanied by a plan of the cemetery and the tumuli, in 
the opening of which on the western division, the mouth of a cave was dis- 
covered. 

From Mullingar to Athlone, the country is undulating, fertile, and well culti- 
A^ated. It is a rich grazing district, and great attention is paid to the breeding of 
all kinds of cattle, the oxen and horses being of superior character. On leaving 
Lough Ree, two miles above, the Shannon resumes its river character, sweeps 
Its great volume of water through the center of Athlone, forming in its progress 
the boundaries of the provinces of Connaught and Leinster, and leaving one half 
of the town in Westmeath, and the other in Roscommon. The new bridge and 
river quays are great modern improvements in Athlone, the most considerable 
town between Dublin and Galway ; and its position on the Shannon has long 
rendered it a place of great military importance. 
19 



LONGFORD. 




Maria Edged oj th s Raic/ince 



The small and inland County of Longford, as before remarked, was until 
the tirrie of Elizabeth, a portion of Meath. Its aspect is not remarkable for 
picturesqueness, being flat, except on its northern extremity ; but its chief towns, 
Longford, Edgeworthstown and Granard, are notable for cleanliness. It is well 
watered, having on the west Lough Ree and the Shannon, and their tributaries, 
the Rinn, the Camlin and Inny, intersecting the county in their courses to them. 
The chief interest of the county is derived from its associations with the name 
and labors of Maria Edgeworth and her family ; and from the still greater dis- 
tinction of having been the birthplace of Oliver Goldsmith, and its neighbor- 
hood the inspiration of his best known and exquisite poetical delineations. 

Passing Multifernam on the branch line from Mullingar, the next station is 
Edgeworthstown, which, though in a position of natural bleakness, is rendered 
somewhat attractive and the prospect relieved by hedgerows of Canadian pop- 
lar, which have been largely introduced. Edgeworthstown House is cheerful 
and commodious, and the demesne abundantly planted. In addition to the 
great claims on popular regard Maria Edgeworth may have for her moral tales 
and early exposure of the evil of absenteeism and rack-renting in Ireland, she 

290 



LONGFORD. 



291 




Ruins of Goldsmith's Early Home. 



might almost be assured an immortality for having moved Scott "first to think 
that something might be attempted for his 
own country of the same kind with that which 
Miss Edgeworth so fortunately achieved for 
Ireland." " The Magician of the North " 
visited Miss Edgeworth here in 1825, and en- 
joying his great welcome, was also "delighted 
to find neither mud hovels nor naked peasan- 
try, but snug cottages and smiling faces all 
about." His party, as described in Lockhart's 
Life, also pleased themselves " with recog- 
nizing some of the sweetest features in Gold- 
smith's picture of ' Sweet Auburn.' " 

Pallas, or Pallasmore on the Inny, two 
miles from Ballymahon," is the birthplace of 
Goldsmith. The scene of " The Deserted 
Village," Lissoy — known for a century as 
Auburn — is about two miles distant over the 
Longford border in Westmeath. During Oliver's infancy his father, a poor 
curate and farmer, removed to Lissoy, and here the brother to whom " The 
Traveller " was dedicated resided after the father's death. It was the home of 
the poet's youth, that period when he received the impressions of the surrounding 
objects which are so picturesquely retained in the memory. Standing by the 
site of 

" The hawthorn bush, with seats beneath the shade, 
For talking age and whispering lovers made," 

the tourist will recognize many interesting topographical reminiscences of the 

poem. The " never-failing brook still bab- 
bles ;" the "busy mill" is silent, the "decent 
church " still tops the neighboring hill ; the 
"village preacher's modest mansion " — either in 
moon-light or noon-light recalling some of the 
sweetest pictures of life in literature — the 
" Three Pigeons," where nut-brown draughts, 

" And news much older than the ale went round ; " 

of which he gives us a more vivid inkling in "She Stoops to Conquer," all are visi- 
ble in ruins, and excite feelings which only the loving touch of genius can evoke. 




The Site of the Hawthorn Bush. 




SCENES IN GOLDSMITH'S "DESERTED VILLAGE." 




Copyright, 1879, by Thomas Kelly. New York. 




Copyright, ISJS.by ThomnB Kelly, New York 



DUBLIN. 



. -i j^-^'i^ 










P'u'TX/ in Phcenix Park. 

Dublin is admitted by all traveled tourists of taste to be magnificently situ- 
ated, and to present, on every side, such a variety and succession of delightful 
scenes, as are scarcely to be met with around any other capital in the world. 
Taking a radius of twelve miles from the center of the city, the scenic resources, 
both by sea, land, and stream, are numerous and surpassingly attractive ; the 
natural beauties being largely enhanced by the cultivation generally apparent. 
The extent indicated includes all the charming coast-line from Bray Head on 
the southeast, to beyond Malahide Bay on the northeast, embracing the bold 

293 



294 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



and far-jutting promontory, the Hill of Howth ; while inland we find every 
variety of sylvan aspect from the. Round Tower of Lusk on the north, to the 
head of Kippure, some 2,500 feet high, on the south ; and between these points, 
the Vale of Shanganagh rising from the beach between Bray Head and Killiney 
and lapping up on the Wicklow Mountains ; back of this the Dublin Mountains 
and Glanismole, the Vale of Thrushes, with the windings of the Dodder ; the 
Valley of the Liffey with the famous Strawberry Beds, Lucan, and the Salmon 
Leap at Leixlip ; the scenery of the Tolka and its literary and poetical associa- 
tions with Tickell, Swift, Addison, Parnell and others ; and the Green Lanes ex- 




Howth Harbor and Light-House. 

tending northward from Drumcondra and Clontarf in the direction of Swords and 
Malahide ; while within the western circumference of the circle are many plea- 
sant spots in Kildare and Meath. The eastward scope of the circle embraces the 
far-famed Bay of Dublin, the beauties of which have been enthusiastically lauded 
in prose and verse. Willis said its shores presented all the various features, 
from the rugged and severe to the soft and smiling, in landscape scenery. Hall 
says it is at once safe, commodious and magnificent, with every variety of coast, 
sandy beach, rough sea promontory, undulating slope, terrific rock : and in delight 
exclaims, " What a glorious impression of Ireland is conveyed to the eye and mind 
upon approaching the noble and beautiful Bay of Dublin! It is, indeed, inexpres- 
sibly lovely." Brewer, more than fifty years ago, said it presented " so noble a 
combination of scenery, and affords at different points such attractive varieties, 
such fine interchanges of the soft and the august, that it has been often placed in 




DUBLIN. 295 

rivalry with the Bay of Naples," which in many natural circumstances it resem- 
bles. Though wanting in the " lonely terrors of Vesuvius," he thought its charms 
justified the eulogy of Dr. Campbell, who said this single prospect would well 
repay a journey to Ireland ; an opinion which may not be deemed extravagant, 
when so talented and experienced a delineator of the picturesque as Creswick 
the artist, in our own day, said that " Dublin Bay, in an autumnal sunrise, pre- 
sented the finest prospect of nature he had ever seen." Of course so splendid a 
theme could not fail to inspire native 

talent to the exercise of pen and ^^sm^p"^ 

pencil, but the fame of Dublin Bay, ^^ 

as our few quotations indicate, is safe 
in the hands of foreign artists. 

The width of the bay, across the 
chord of the, arc from Dalkey Island 
under Killiney Hill to Howth Head, 
is seven miles, and its depth from 
this line to the city over four miles, 

presenting a nearly circular form. Al- -^^'f^^^y -^i^i&SL^^^ K 

most in the center, and from Rin^- ' -^ - 

° Hozuth Abbey. 

send on the southern side of the Liffey 

there runs out into the bay a mole or pier three and a half miles long,* the Pool- 
beg light house at its extremity, and the Pigeon-House Fort less than half the dis- 
tance from the city. " I should like," writes a visitor to the meeting of the British 
Association, held in Dublin last year (1878), "to hear your ejaculations as the 
mail-boat, steering in from the open waters, passed the islets of Lambay and 
Ireland's Eye, and then rounded the precipices and brown slopes of the Hill of 
Howth. Here, on the right, you would see a long silver strand stretching back 
for miles until like one of Turner's pictures, the glittering ray became lost in the 
dark haze of the city. A little to the left, apparently standing out alone in the 
sea, is a light-house. It is noi alone, however, for as you draw near to it you will 
find there is a breakwater of considerable length behind it, also running back to 
the city. Between the strand and this light-house flows the channel, up which 
go the steamers bound for Dublin. If, however, you are on the mail-boat, your 

* This pier is, we believe, longer than those usually recorded as among the longest in the world ; for instance, 
Plymouth Breakwater is 5,100 feet ; Rochelle Mole, 4,482 ; Palma Mole, Majorca, 3,550 ; Aberdeen, 2,000 ; and other 
constructions of the sort, from the Mole of Genoa to the Ramsgate Piers vary from 2,800 in the former, to 800 feet in 
the latter. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



anchorage will not be in the river Liffey, but far away on the left, in the Royal 
Harbor of Kingstown. This, although the bay is seven miles wide, you have 
also seen looming in the distance, as your four-funneled leviathan steamed past 
Howth and the Kish light-ship. But it is not till your wonder at the nearer 
enchantments has exhausted itself that your eyes become fixed on the many 
miles of handsome marine villages, screened at the back by long ranges of undu- 
lating mountains, 
w h i c h, at the 
Kingstown side 
of the bay, sweep 
upwards from the 
limit of the waves." 
The famed Hill 
of Howth — nearly 
an insulated prom- 
ontory, the north- 
fe eastern guardian 
of the bay — is strik- 
ingly picturesque 
in form, especially 
while sailing by its 
precipitous, cliffs 
and resounding 

caves — and in other respects it might supply materials for a most interesting 
volume. It has abundant store of attractions for the geologist, botanist, and 
naturalist ; and its various ancient monuments, of every class and age, from the 
regal fortress, the sepulchral cairn, and the cromlech of pagan times, to the early 
Christian oratory, the abbey, and the baronial hall of later times, would supply, 
in the opinion of Petrie, an ample stock for the antiquary and historian. Its 
ancient name was Ben-Edair, the hill of oaks, indicating the luxuriance of 
the woods which crowned it. It was also called Du7i-Crivithan, 'Crimthan's 
fort, from having been the residence of that monarch, " celebrated for his suc- 
cessful incursions into Britain, and the advantages he there obtained, not only 
over the natives, but some Roman forces in the time of Agricola." The great 
portion of the peninsula belongs to the estate of the Earl of Howth, and has 
been in uninterrupted possession of his ancestors since it was granted to Sir Ar- 
moricus Tristram, in ii 77, for his gallantry in fight here. 




Howth Castle. 




HOWTH HEAD A.IMD L;J_ACil. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



.i\ 



On the northern side of the promontory is the harbor, which was formerly 
the mail-packet station of the port of Dublin, and the little fishing village which 
gives its name to the peninsula. The harbor is now all but deserted by vessels 
larger than fishing boats ; but during the herring season it presents an interesting 
and animated scene, boats from all parts of Ireland, and from England, Scot- 
land, and Man, assembling here in hundreds ; steamers plying with the glittering 
freight across the channel, and the piers crowded with " hands " selling or barrel- 
ing for exportation. 

On an eminence immediately over the harbor are the venerable ruins of 

Howth Abbey. It is sometimes called 
Balscadden Abbey, from the little bay 
of that name ; and is supposed to have 
been founded by the Ostmen in the 
eleventh century. In the early part of 
the thirteenth century (1235), when the 
original prebendal church of Howth 
was transferred from Ireland's Eye to 
the mainland, the Abbey of Howth was 
dedicated to St. Mary, Star of the Sea, 
and constituted a member of the chap- 
ter of St. Patrick's Cathedral, being 
shortly afterward endowed by Almeri- 
cus, the ninth baron, with a grant of 
thirty acres of ground. An altar-tomb 
in the chancel, erected to Christopher, 
the twentieth baron, and his lady, Eliza- 
beth, is an interesting specimen. The 
knight is represented in the armor, and the lady in" the costume of the time. 
The western gable sustains a bell turret pierced for three bells. The latter are 
still preserved in Howth Castle, together with a huge two-handed sword, with 
which, it is traditionally reported, an ancestor of the St. Lawrences carved the 
fortunes of the family. A strong embattled wall surrounds the church and 
grave-yard, adding considerably to the picturesque effect of the scene, and 
presenting " a striking evidence of the half-monk, half-soldier character of its 
founders." Some curious-looking ancient houses upon the southeastern angle 
of the wall are said to have been used as a " college " by the monks, and are 
so designated. 




Si. DouUup'/i's Church. ■ 



DUBLIN. 



299 



In ascending the hill, over the village, our attention is attracted to the 
bays of Portmarnock, Malahide, and Portrane ; and as the Howth branch of the 
Dublin and Drogheda Railroad invites to an excursion in this northern section 
before rounding the promontory and going to the city by Sutton and Clontarf, 
we start in the direction of Malahide. 

Some three miles from Malahide, and half that distance from Portmarnock 
Station, may be visited the ruins of St. Doulough's Church, which is quite 
remarkable for its construction, and has long occupied the attention of writers 
upon Irish antiquities. It is a stone-roofed build- 
ing, of oblong plan, with a low, square tower in 
the center, and has been generally classed with 
the structures of the early Irish saints, and of 
the period of Cormac's Chapel, at Cashel ; but 
its architectural features more nearly resemble ^ 
those of the thirteenth century. Near it is St ^ 
Doulough's Well, quite in keeping with the ^ 
church. The spring, which was thought to pos 
sess miraculous powers, is covered by a stone 
roofed octagonal temple, rises through a circular 
basin cut out of a single stone, and supplies a 
curious subterraneous bath close by. 

Malahide Station is next from Portmarnock 
with the village on the right and Malahide Castle 
and demesne on the left. The village is well built, and pleasantly situated on 
an inlet of the Irish Sea, which is here crossed by the railroad on an embank- 
ment eight feet above spring tide, with a viaduct of eleven arches, each fifty feet 
wide. In the middle of the town is an arch-covered well of very clear water, 
dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. The castle, or court, is large and irregular, 
although nearly square in its outward form, situated on a commanding eminence. 
Many historical and romantic associations are linked with the venerable structure. 
"On Whitsun Eve, in the year 1329," as recorded by Ware, "John de Birming- 
ham, Earl of Louth, Richard Talbot, styled Lord Malahide, and many of their 
kindred, together with sixty of their English followers, were slain in a pitched 
battle at Balbriggan, by the Anglo-Norman faction of the De Verdons, De Ger- 
nons, and Savages ; the cause of animosity being the election of the earl to the 
palatine dignity of Louth, the county of the latter party." It is believed that 
Cromwell had his abode here for a short time ; and it is on record that Miles 




St. Doiilov(rh's Well. 



300 



PICTURE SO UE I RE LA ND. 



Corbet, " one of the regicides," resided in the castle for years, and took his flight 
hence when outlawed at the Restoration. The interior is even more interesting 
than its turreted and battlemented exterior, presenting many antique features, 

and containing 
many gems o f 
art. The apart- 
ment of great- 
est curiosity is 
wainscoted 
throughout with 
oak, elaborately 
carved in com- 
partments repre- 
senting the his- 
tory of Adam 
and other scrip- 
tural subjects, 
some of which 
are executed 
with much skill ; 
the chimney- 
piece is carved 
with peculiar 
beauty, having 
in the central di- 
vision figures of 
the Virgin and 
Child. This fig- 
ure of the Virgin 
is the subject of 
a marvelous tra- 
Malahide Abbey. dition— that dur- 

ing the civil wars, whilst the castle was in the possession of the Cromwellians, the 
statue disappeared, but resumed its station after the return of the Talbot family. 
The entire wainscoting is highly varnished, and has acquired a somber but 
striking effect from a blackness of tint which causes the " oak chamber " to appear 
like a vast cabinet of ebony. Adjoining this, is a spacious apartment containing 






s^*- 



THE BAILEY LIGHT-HOUSE 



302 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



some pictures of great value and interest, the principal of which is a small altar- 
piece by Albert Durer — representing the Nativity, Adoration, and Circum- 
cision — ^which had been in the oratory of Mary, Queen of Scots, at Holyrood, 
and for which Charles II. gave ;^2,ooo. He presented it to the Duchess of 
Portsmouth, a portrait of whom by Sir Peter Lely is also here. Of the others, 
a Charles I., by Vandyke ; a Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; a head, by 
Rembrandt, and specimens by Annibale Caracci,'Parmegiano, Hobbima, Wouver- 
mans, and George Barrett, the Irish landscape painter, are noteworthy. 

Beside the castle is Malahide Abbey, a picturesque ruin of a small church, the 
nave and choir of which are divided by a spacious gothic arch about the center 
of the building. What remains of the east window exhibits mullions and tracery 
of the perpendicular style. The western end supports the ivy-clad belfry. Owing 

_ to the hardness of the black stone 

or calp used, the canopies or drip- 
stones of the arches present an un- 
common sharpness in the moldings. 
Originally the walls had embattled 
parapets. Most attractive of interest 
is an altar tomb, which, indicating a 
tale of youth, love, and romance, nat- 
urally incites the resources of fancy 
and human sympathy. The tomb is 
surmounted by an effigy^ in bold relief 
of a female in the costume of the 
fifteenth century. It is sacred to the 
memory of Lady Talbot, wife of Sir Richard, best known to romance as Maud 
Plunket, and by her earlier marriage to the son of Baron Galtrim, who was sum- 
moned from the altar to defend the border, and was brought back on his wed- 
ding day a corpse, leaving her the singular celebrity of having been a maid, wife, 
and widow on the same day. On this event, Gerald Griffin wrote his ballad 
" The Bridal of Malahide." 

Crossing over the shallow estuary, or inner bay of Malahide, we obtain views 
of the Round Tower of Swords, which we will reach presently. Passing the 
station at Donabate, we arrive at Rush, a mile to the west of which are the 
church ruins and ancient Round Tower of Lusk. There was an abbey here in 
the early ages of Christianity. St. Macculind, Bishop and Abbot of Lusk, died 
in 497. Cassan, the learned scribe, or " chronographer " of Lusk, died here in 




Malahide Castle. 




^ B a da d 



/ r / 



DUBLIN. 



303 



695, and in the same or following year, St. Adamnanus held a synod in this 
abbey, at which the chief prelates of Ireland were present. The church was 
probably erected on the site of the ancient abbey, and presents architectural fea- 
tures of a remarkable character. The chief parts of the building — which consists 
of two long aisles, that on the north being one hundred and fifty feet, divided 
by seven arches — are in the pointed style ; but at the west end is a square 
steeple, attached to three angles of which are round towers, with graduated para- 
pets. Close to, but detached from, the fourth angle, is a veritable ancient round 
tower, in a good state of preservation, the whole forming a striking group. 
Under the steeple is a crypt, or vaulted chapel. The church contains several, 
some elaborate, sepulchral monuments — notably 
one in the south aisle, of Kilkenny and Italian 
marble, to Sir Christopher Barnewall. 

Two miles west of Malahide is the ancient 
ecclesiastical town of Swords. A monastery, 
described as " sumptuous," was founded here 
by St. Columbkill in 512, over which he placed 
St. Finian, the leper. It became a place of great 
importance, and was ravaged and burnt four 
times during the eleventh and twelfth centuries. 
Its attractions now, are the vestiges of its past 
splendor, consisting of the old Round Tower, the 
church tower, and the ruins of the former palace 
of the Archbishop of Dublin. The latter, show- 
ing a considerable extent of the embattled wall, 
and the flanking towers of the court, is in the center of the town, and overlooks 
the Swords River. The Round Tower — seventy-three feet high— on a knoll, is 
contiguous to the old church tower, and both are in strong contrast to the neat, 
modern edifice built on the site of the ancient place of worship. 

Retracing our steps to the village of Howth, we shall have time to enjoy its 
interesting objects, scenes, and antiquities, even if we have not space to note 
more than a few of them. On one of the elevations stands the Castle of Howth, 
embowered in foliage. From the heights above it, fine views of the demesne, 
the harbor, the remarkable island of Ireland's Eye, Lambay and the coast, the 
glorious sea, and the beautiful bay, are to be had. The walls of the original 
castle are standing near the new one, and are the notemarks to many legends of 
interest. The estate has remained in the same family since the Anglo-Norman 




Round Tow tr ind Chunk — LusL 



304 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



incursion ; the original name of Tristram having been changed to that of St. Law- 
rence, in consequence of an oath taken by one of the family conducting a battle 
on St. Lawrence's Day, that if successful he would take the name of the saint. 
A popular and apparently authenticated legend, resulting in hospitality, for cen- 
turies, is the following : 

When the celebrated sea-queen, Grace O'Malley, or Gj'anua aille, as the peo- 
ple yet love to call her, was on her way back from the court of Elizabeth, she 
landed at Howth in 1593, and with her attendants, passing the castle, observed that 
the gates were barred. Upon inquiring, she learned that the gates were always 
shut at dinner time, to repel visitors. The Connaught idea of hospitality was 




Round Tower and Church — Swords. 



shocked at this churlishness, so, without more ado, she seized the heir of Howth, 
and carrying him off, refused to give him up till the St. Lawrences would cove- 
nant never, again to close their approaches during the midday meal ; a compact 
which we believe was kept sacred up to a recent period. 

The Bailey light-house, two miles south from the village, on the point of a 
narrow, rocky promontory projecting a quarter of a mile into the sea, is a spot of 
no less antiquarian than picturesque interest. Its name is by some derived from 
an ancient circular stone fortress which encircled the apex of the rock, and of which 
considerable remains existed previous to the erection of the present buildings. 
This great keep was fortified by three earthen walls, with deep intervening 
ditches at the entrance, which cut it off completely from the peninsula. These 



IllllliiilJiyJiiilyllillilltWiU 




3o6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



works still remain, though in a very ruinous state ; yet they are sufficiently dis- 
tinct to convey a good idea of defensive works in extremely remote times. 
Popular tradition ascribes these, as many other things, " to the Danes," but the 
works themselves bear evidence of belonging to an earlier age, and are "the re- 
mains of Duii-Criomthan (pronounced Dun-Criffan), the fortress of Criomthan 
Nia-nair, who, according to the ancient histories, ascended the throne of Ireland 
in the year 74, and who, after being dethroned, died in this fastness in the year 

90. His sepulchral cairn — crowning 

-^^^ = the summit of Sliabh- Martin, the 

^^^7 highest pinnacle of the ancient Ben- 

^^ ^fc^^ ^ edair — is still to be seen." 

j^~ ^^^=5 ^ The island of Lambay, contain- 

^^ ing six hundred acres, and rising four 

hundred and eighteen feet above the 
sea, is a remarkable feature from both 
land and sea ; and Ireland's Eye, or 
" the world's wonder," a quartz forma- 
tion of fifty-three acres, rising boldly 
from the ocean, is even more so. The 
latter contains the remains of an an- 
cient round tower, a modern martell 
tower, and the ruins of a penitential 
cell or chapel, erected by St. Nessan, 
who founded an abbey on the island 
in 570, in which the book of the gospels known as the " Garland of Howth," 
was said to have been preserved. 

The circuit of Howth, from the terminus of the branch railway at the 
village, on the north, to Sutton, on the inner or west side, is six miles ; and is a 
delightful walk or drive. Close by the latter, with the rocks above, and the 
beach and bay in front, is the little ruined church of St. Fenton. It is very 
small, not more than sixteen feet by eight, yet it contains a belfry and five 
windows, all splaying upon the interior, as in the most ancient stone build- 
ings, for defense. Over the neck connecting Howth with the mainland is 
the little fishing village of Baldoyle, and near to Sutton, on the bay, is the 
lonely grave-yard of Kilbarrack, with its storm-shattered church ruins. We 
can proceed to the city by rail through Raheny and Drumcondra — where there is 
a Catholic college — or along shore by the way of Dollymount and Clontarf, the 




Swords Castle, 



DUBLIN. 307 

famous battle-ground on which the great King of Ireland, Brian Boru, defeated 
the Danes under Sitric, King of the Ostmen, on Good Friday (23d April), 1014. 
The Irish victory was dearly purchased by the loss of Brian, who, at the close of 
the battle, was found praying in his tent, and slain by Brodar. 

Dublin, the capital of Ireland, and the largest, most populous, and most 
wealthy city in it, is not only the most beautiful city in the Emerald Isle, but one 
of the most beautiful in Europe. Some writers and travelers are of opinion 
that, while it is not in extent, commerce, or wealth, equal to others, yet in position, 
architectural embellishment, and variety of picturesque environment, it is the 
handsomest city in the British dominions. It occupies the eastern end of the 
great central calcareous plane which reaches from the Irish Sea to the Atlantic. 
It is intersected by the river Liffey, which divides it into nearly equal parts — 
north and south — and is also watered by the Cammock, which enters the Liffey 
at the west end, opposite the Phoenix Park, and by the Tolka and Dodder, which 
fall into the estuary at opposite sides, the former on the north at Clontarf, and 
the latter on the south at Ringsend. 

Dublin is a very ancient city, so ancient that the precise period of its founda- 
tion, like that of other famous towns, is wrapt in obscurity. The earliest authentic 
account of it is in the writings of Ptolemy, a.d. 140, who mentions it as a city 
by the name of Eblana, the headquarters of the Eblani, who then occupied the 
seaboard of Meath and Dublin. Irish historians refer to it about the same 
time, recording the partition of Ireland between Conn of the Hundred Fights, and 
Eogan Mor, King of Munster, by a line from Dublin to Galway. In the year 
after, the Munster king quarreled with Conn about the customs taken at Dublin, 
more ships going to the northern than to the southern side ; and a battle ensued 
in which Eogan was defeated and slain, with his ally and brother-in-law Fregus, the 
son of the King of Spain. Thus without departing from the strict domains of his- 
tory, the city of Dublin has an antiquity of more than seventeen centuries. It 
is also mentioned by Joclyn, in his " Life of St. Patrick," as a "most noble city " 
at the time of the patron saint, who made many converts here, and baptized 
them at a well on the south side — hence called St. Patrick's Well — near which 
the cathedral was built. In 438, the Ostmen, or Danes, arrived in the Liffey 
with a fleet of sixty ships ; they made a settlement on the northern shore of the 
stream, and having shown an intention to remain simply as colonists or peaceable 
subjects of the Irish princes, were permitted to erect houses of hurdles and clay, 
and to build walls round about them. The country at the north side of the city 
was designated by the native Irish as Fingall, or the land of the white strangers, 



^o8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



and at the present day Finglas forms a part of Dublin. Soon another colony of 
Danes settled on the south side of the city, and their quarter was known as 
Dubhgall, or country of the black strangers. The whole district at the mouth 
of the Liffey was known to the ancient Irish as Bally-Ath-Cliath-Duibhlin7ie, 
"the town of the ford of hurdles on the black water," because before the river 
was embanked, the town was entered from the north side by means of hurdles 
placed on the low, marshy, and muddy-black ground adjoining and flooded by 
the tide. The Danish settlers called the territory by the last name Divelin, 
hence the title of Dublin. For three centuries afterward the Danes held posses- 
sion of their settlements, and no formidable effort was made to expel them 
permanently. In 853, Aulaffe Sitric, having arrived with a very formidable fleet 
in the Liffey, was elected King of Dublin ; the neighboring Irish princes made a 

truce with him, and for 
the first time the city 
was placed in a thor- 
ough state of defense, 
and fortified at every 
point. 

The Danes had now 
become most numerous, 
and explorations of re- 
mote parts of Ireland, 
and even incursions 
into Wales, were undertaken by them. Battles were of frequent occurrence, but 
no Irish king succeeded in dislodging the Danes until the ever-memorable battle 
of Clontarf took place in 1014, when Sitric, after a long and obstinate engage- 
ment, was utterly routed by Brian Boru. 

The Danes fled to Dublin and Howth, where they confined themselves for 
many years, purchasing quietude by the payment of vast sums in tribute to the 
King of Leinster. It was during this term of repose that they erected in 
Dublin the churches which to this day testify to the love of religion and art that 
prevailed amongst them at that time. The repose, however, was only temporary, 
for the depredations of the Danes were resumed when an opportunity offered, 
for years after. 

The incursion of the Anglo-Normans, led by Strongbow and his associates, 
under the auspices of Henry II. of England, to aid Dermod MacMurrogh, King 
of Leinster, in his feud with Roderick O'Connor, King of Ireland, took place a 




Xc-aj Rail-diay Station at Aortk Wail. 



DUBLIN. 



309 



hundred and fifty 
years after the bat- 
tle of Clontarf; 
and among their 
other achievements 
was the capture of 
DubUn. The suc- 
cesses of the adven- 
turers raised the 
suspicion of Henry 
II., who announced 
that he would him- 
self assume control, 
and set sail from 
Milford Haven 
with four thou- 
sand men. He 
landed at Water- 
ford 1 8th October, 
1 1 71, and arrived 
at Dublin on the 
I 1 1 h November, 
where he erected 
an immense pavi- 
lion of polished 
osiers, and in it, be- 
neath a regal can- 
opy, entered into 
compacts of pro- 
tection with numer- 
ous Irish chiefs. 
He passed the 
Christmas in Dub- 
lin, entertaining 
the natives with 
o-reat ostentation ; 
but he was in a 




3IO 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 







constant state of perplexity for want of foreign intelligence, the severe and 
stormy weather preventing communication. When the weather moderated, his 
perplexity was not decreased by the news of threatened interdiction by Rome 
for his complicity with the assassination of A'Becket — and that his queen and 
sons had entered into a conspiracy to dethrone him. He bestowed upon ten of 
his adherents, by charter and Norman law, the whole of Ireland, except the 
towns on the eastern coast, which he kept under his own control, and sailed from 
Wexford on the 17th of April, 11 72. 

Of course it would be impossible in our limit to give even a meager outline 
of the history of so ancient a city as Dublin ; and in such references as we must 
necessarily make we can only indicate the epochs and events around which the 

developing transactions oc- 

_z_ =rE^^^^^ __ curred which tended toward 

the commercial growth, corpo- 
rate extension, intellectual rep- 
utation, and political impor- 
tance of the city. 

De Lacy, Palatine of 
Meath, was the representative 
of Henry H. the year after the 
Anglo-Norman invasion. He 
was succeeded by John, son of 
the king, a parliament held at 
Oxford in 11 77 having given 
him the title of Lord of Ire- 
land. He arrived in. Dublin accompanied by a train of young noblemen, who 
were so disappointed at not finding suitable housing prepared for them, that 
John, when elevated to the throne, was easily persuaded to make a grant for the 
erection of a castle. This king visited Ireland in 12 10, and amid " the parade of 
many idle festivities," instituted " a regular code and charter of laws," and estab- 
lished courts for their administration. He left John de Gray, Bishop of Nor- 
wich, in charge of the government, who caused pence and farthings to be coined 
of the same value as those in England. On this coin was " the king's head in 
a triangle," the latter supposed to be a rude representation of a harp. In 1215 
John granted a license to the citizens of Dublin to erect a bridge over the Liffe}^ 
On the appearance of Edward Bruce before Dublin, in 1316, the citizens in alarm 
set fire to Thomas Street, the flames of which spreading destroyed " St. John's 



r^ r [^1 ^ l\ 



nirfl' 



BirnnnsiJiam Tower 



DUBLIN. 



311 



J 



Church, Magdalen Chapel, and all the suburbs." " St. Mary's Abbey was de- 
stroyed, and St. Patrick's Church was rifled by the enemy. The Church of the 
Dominicans was also razed, and the stones of it employed in building and repair- 
ing the city walls, which were enlarged on the north part and extended to the 
quays." Richard II. spent several months in Dublin in 1394, and having brought 
the crown jewels with him, maintained a court of greater splendor in the Irish 
capital than had ever been witnessed there. Five years later he was in Dublin 
again, and received here the news preluding his ruin — in the claim of young 
Henry of Lancaster on the crown. 

In 1407, Henry IV. granted a license that the mayor of Dublin, and his suc- 
cessors forever, should bear before them a gilded sword, in the same manner as 
the mayors of London, In i486, Lambert Simnel, the impostor, was crowned 
king in Christ's Church Cathedral, 
under the title of Edward VI., in n "T^ - 

presence of the mayor and citi- 
zens, who were influenced by the 
example of the lord deputy, Gerald, 
Earl of Kildare, the lords of the - ' 
council, and other persons of distinc- 
tion, to assist at the ceremony. The 
crown used on the occasion was taken _ 
from a statue of the Blessed Virgin 
in a church dedicated to her near 
Dames' Gate. In the next year the 
mayor, Jenico Marks, and citizens made an apology to and craved clemency of 
Henry VII.; upon which Sir Richard Edgecombe was sent over to take the 
homage and oaths of the Irish nobility, and give them the king's pardon, which 
was done at Guildhall. Fire-arms were first brought to Dublin from Germany 
in 1489, and in the next year the first claret was imported. 

Henry VIII., when Duke of York, aged four years, was appointed lord lieu- 
tenant, with Sir Edward Poynings as deputy. The latter landed at Howth, 13th 
October, 1494, was installed in Dublin, swore In a council of English associates, 
and convened a parliament of English subjects. The most memorable public 
act passed during this administration was that which became notorious as " Poy- 
nings's law," which prohibited the meeting of any parliament of the English sub- 
jects in Ireland without license under the great seal of England ; and declared 
that statutes should not be legal unless previously approved of by the viceroy 




W 



Christ Church Cathedral 



312 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

and colonial privy council, and sanctioned by the king and his council in Eng- 
land. This ordinance subverted the independence of the parliaments of the 
Anglo-Irish. The colonists, at the time of its enactment, were led to regard it 
in the light of a protection against the legislative oppressions occasionally at- 
tempted by the viceroys.""' As king, Henry VIII. laid a heavy and sacrilegious 
hand on Ireland. Among the monasteries dissolved by him was that of All Hal- 
lows, which he gave to the citizens in return for "their valor in putting down" 
the revolt of Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed "Silken Thomas" from the 
elegance and richness of his equipments. Elizabeth enhanced the gift by found- 




St. Patrick's Cathedral — Southeast. 



ing on it the University of Dublin, which was opened in the year 1593. James I. 
made immense confiscations with the design of creating and sustaining " an Eng- 
lish interest in Ireland." This was the touchstone of the Stuart policy, which was 
to be furthered and fostered, at all hazards, by every intrigue, and the sacrifice 
of every vow and tie, religious, legal, and political.f 

In the civil wars of the seventeenth century, Dublin, as the seat of vice- 
regal government, was the theater of important transactions. In 1647 the Mar- 
quis of Ormond resigned his office of lord lieutenant, and delivered up the city 



* Historyi of the Viceroys of Ireland ; with Notices of the Castle-of Dublin, etc., by J. T. Gilbert, Esq., Member of 
the Council and Librarian of the Royal Irish Academy ; author of A History of the City of Dublin, etc. Dublin, 1S65. 
Chap. xii. 

f The Struggle for Irish Natioimlity, hy John Savage. Boston, 1S6S. 



DUBLIN. 



313 



to commissioners ap- 
pointed by Parlia- 
ment ; on behalf of 
which Colonel Mi- 
chael Jones was ap- 
pointed governor, 
and succeeded in 
holding Dublin for 
that party. In Jan- 
uary, 1659, Lord 
Montgomery, Sir 
Oliver St. George, 
and other persons of 
consequence, in the 
interest of the resto- 
ration of Charles II., 
seized Dublin Castle 
and Governor Jones, 
in the name of the 
government commis- 
sioners, and declared 
for a free parliament. 
On the petition of 
the mayor and alder- 
men they summoned 
a convention of es- 
tates, which, in the 
year following, ac- 
cepted the declara- 
tions of Charles at 
Breda, and the res- 
toration was accom- 
plished so far as 
Ireland was con- 
cerned. Shortly af- 
terward Charles II. 
complimented the 




314 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



city of Dublin with a collar of SS., and in 1665 the chief magistrate was honored 
with the title of lord mayor, Sir Daniel Bellingham being the first who bore that 
style, and the king granted five hundred pounds a year forever to support the dig- 
nity. A national synod of the Catholic clergy was held in Dublin in 1666 ; and 
in 1670 the noted Blue Coat Hospital — one of the greatest of the city's charities 
of that time — was erected. Among improvements of the same year may be 
mentioned the planting of trees round St. Stephen's Green, the construction of 
the watercourse of the city basin ; the laying of the water pipes through the 
city ; and the placing of chimes in St. Patrick's Cathedral (eight bells), in Christ 
Church Cathedral (six bells), and in St. Catherine's (five bells). The next year 
the Dublin apprentices made a demonstration at Bloody Bridge — so called from 
the fatal character of the affray. 

The year 1687 is memorable, in the city annals, for excessive rains and 

storms, causing a 
great inundation of 
the Liffey, by which 
part of Essex Bridge 
was carried off. This 
was regarded by some 
as a "judgment," as 
the stones of St. Ma- 
ry's Abbey were used 
in building the bridge. 
The inundation was verj' destructive, sweeping away buildings, men, cattle, and 
goods. Boats plied in Patrick Street and the Coombe ; and among the damage 
was the bearing away of a mill which stood at the foot of Bloody Bridge, and a 
coach and horses which were crossing Essex Bridge at the crisis of the calamity. 
Having landed at Kinsale in 1689, James II. arrived in Dublin on the 24th 
March. He summoned a parliament in the King's Inns, May 7th, which sat until 
2d July. After the battle of the Boyne he fied to Dublin, slept one night in 
the Castle, and continued his flight to Waterford, where he took shipping for 
France. William III. followed — encamped at Finglas, made a grand military 
entry into the city, and proceeded to St. Patrick's Cathedral, where a splendid 
thanksgiving service was held for his victory. In 1697 the old parish of St. 
Michan's, which included all the city north of the Liffey, was by act of parlia- 
ment divided into three parishes, the new^ St. Michan's, St. Paul's, and St. 
Mary's, and churches erected in the two latter by parish tax. 




Sti-ons^bow's Monicmeiit — Christ CliurcJi. 



DUBLIN. 



315 



During the seventeenth century the city of Dublin greatly increased in ex- 
tent and style. The maps and plans of 1610 show that the city walls, including 
those of the Castle, were little more than an Irish mile in their entire length. At 
this period it was only castles, towers, churches, and monasteries that were built 
of stone or brick. Up to the time of Elizabeth, private buildings were neither 
convenient nor durable. When some little respite from war occurred in the reign 
of James I., the inhabitants of Dublin began to use brick and stone in building 
residences, and covered them with tiles or slates. At that time the Liffey was 
not embanked by quays on the north side, and only a part of it on the south. 
With the exception of a small part near the King's Inns, which had been a Do- 
minican Friary, the „ __- 

^t,^ "./ .-^^ 



^cgY" ^^ 




Crypt — Christ Church, 



ground from the North 
Wall, and where the 
Custom House now 
stands, along the line 
of fine embankment 
now occupied by Eden 
Quay, Bachelor's Walk, 
the two Ormond Quays, 
Inn's Quay, Arran 
Quay, Ellis's and Pem- 
broke Quays, was cov- 
ered with ooze and 
overflowed by the tides. 
The whole of the city, on the north of the Liffey, called Ostman Town 
(corruptly Oxmantown), was embraced between St. Mary's Abbey on the 
east, and Church Street (so called from St. Michan's Church) on the west, 
and extending from Pill Lane nearly to where afterward was built the jail called 
Newgate, in Green Street. Of course the spaces westward from Church Street 
to Arbor Hill and the Barracks, and eastward from St. Mary's Abbey to the 
Custom House and Ballybough Bridge, have since been added. Grange-Gor- 
man, Stonnybatter, Glasmanogue, etc., long since in the city, were then villages 
at a distance from it : indeed, so remote was the latter, that mayors' and sheriffs' 
courts were held there in times of the plague. On the south of the Liffey, the 
city centered round and under the Castle ; Dame Street was only a short range 
of buildings backing on the river, from which it is now separated by a large popu- 



3i6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



lation ; and a vast portion of the present city from this point to Ringsend has been 
reclaimed from the dominion of water.* The streets were narrow and irregular, 
and the general aspect by no means such as to warrant any expectation that Dub- 
lin would in a century and a half become a large and beautiful city, such as to 
command intelligent and enthusiastic admiration and, to some extent, indicate 
the scale of magnificence to which the public spirit of its citizens has since ad- 
vanced it. A reference to this subject from a popular work published more than 

a century ago,f will ajo- 
propriately continue to 
illustrate the progress 
of Dublin, from the 
end of the seventeenth 
to the middle of the 
eighteenth century : 

" The increase of 
Dublin, within twenty 
years last past, is incre- 
dible, and it is generally 
supposed that four thou- 
sand houses have been 
added to the city and 
suburbs since the reign 
of Queen Anne. This 
city, in its appearance, 
bears a near resem- 
blance to London. The 
houses are of brick, the 
old streets are narrow 
and mean, but the new 
streets are more elegant and better planned than those of the metropolis of 
Great Britain. Sackville Street, which is sometimes called The Mall, is particu- 
arly noble. The houses are elegant, lofty, and uniformly built, and a gravel walk 




y\( ; in Jii J ) 



L / ) n/ (. /lit/ h 



* See Warbiirton, Wiitelaw, and Walsh's Histoiy of the City of Dublin, 2 vols. 4to. Gilbert's Hist, of the Same, 
3 vols. 8vo, 1861. 

t A Ne-iu System of Modern Geography ; or, a Geographical, Ilisloiieal, and Coniniercial Grammar. By Wm. Guth- 
rie, 1770. The author of this work was a Scotchman, a voluminous writer of books, contributor to 7'he Gentleman's 
Magazine, Ciitieal Review, etc. See Allibone's Diet, of Authors. 



DUBLIN. 



317 



runs through the whole, at an equal distance from the sides. Stephen's Green 
is a most extensive square, being one mile in circumference ; it is partly laid out 
in gravel walks like St. James's Park, with trees on each side, in which may be 
seen, in fine weather, a resort of as much beauty, gayety, and finery as at any of 
the public places in England. . . . Indeed, whatever way a stranger turns 
himself in this city, he will perceive a spirit of elegance and magnificence, and if 
he extends his view over the whole kingdom, he will conclude that works of orna- 




St Pt/uc/ i dihedral — East 



ment and public utility in Ireland, keep pace with those erected in the different 
parts of Great Britain. For it must be acknowledged that no nation in Europe, 
comparatively speaking, has expended such sums as the grants of the Irish Par- 
liament, which has been, and continues to be the life and soul of whatever is 
carried on ; witness the many noble erections, churches, hospitals, bridges, the 
forming of harbors, public roads, canals, one of which is now cutting across the 
kingdom to Dublin, and many other public and private undertakings." 



3i8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The most notable events and improvements which command admiration for 
practical public purposes and as illustrating the advance of arts, letters, benevo- 
lence, and general civilization during the period summarized were briefly : the 
building of the Tholsel (Toll-stall), where the lord mayor held his court, in 1683, 
and the Royal Hospital, Kilmalnham, on the site of a priory of Knights Templars, 
in 1684; the enlargement of Trinity College, and the act for the erection of 

lamps in the 
city, in 1697 ; 
the embank- 
ment of the 
Liffey in 1714, 
the opening 
- of the Linen 
Hall in 1728; 
the erection 
of the North 
Wall in the 
3 e a r follow- 
mg, the build- 
1 n g of the 
Music Hall in 
Crow Street 

in 1730, on the foundation of which the famous theater was afterward built ; the 
completion of the college library in 1732 ; the opening of two theaters in Rains- 
ford and Aungier streets, in 1733 ; and of Steevens' Hospital — bequest of Dr. 
Steevens — this year, and Mercer's Hospital — gift of Mrs. Mary Mercer — in the 
next ; the founding of St. Patrick's Hospital by Dean Swift, in 1745 ; and the 
incorporation in i 746 of the Dublin Society, from whose schools some of the most 
eminent artists of modern times have issued ; the commencement of the South 
Wall and Mole from Ringsend in 1748 ; the foundation of the Lying-in Hospital 
in 1751 ; the opening of Crow Street Theater in 175S ; the beginning of the 
Grand Canal in i 765 ; the founding of the Royal Exchange (the present City 
Hall), in 1769; and the establishment of the penny post for the city and a 
circuit of four miles in 1773; besides the erection of several bridges, markets, 
churches, schools, hospitals, monuments, and the construction of streets too 
numerous to particularize. 

From the Restoration the Parliament sat in Chichester House, which stood 




St Patuck s Cathtdril — ^oii/h 



DUBLIN. 



319 



on what was afterward the site of the Houses of ParHament, and it was within 
this building the struggle for the legislative independence of Ireland began. 
After the misery and depression of the rebellion, the Croniwellian era, and the 
war between James and William, came the Penal Statutes, the object of which 
was to bar the estates which repeated confiscations had given the Anglo-Protes- 
tant colonists of the sixteenth and seventeenth centu- 
ries from ever descending to Catholic hands. The 
particular act to enforce this was passed by the Irish 
Parliament in 1703. But it has been shown in many 
a speech of oratorical and truthful splendor, that the 
Parliament from 1688 to 1782 was a mere cipher 
named by Government, without any reference to na- 
tional feeling. 

In 1729, Parliament sat in the Blue Coat Hospital, 
when the struggle between the patriots of those days 
and the corruptionists representing the Government, 
resulted in a close parliamentary contest and victory 
for the former, which marks an era. Under the viceroy- 
ship of the Duke of Dorset, a gross attempt was made 
to grant the supplies set aside for the payment of the 
principal and interest of the national debt (^200,000), 
to the king (George II.), and his successors forever. 
This proposition was violently resisted by the patriots, "^ ijt^ M numetit. 

who asserted the unconstitutionality of voting the sum for a longer period than 
from session to session. Defeated in this, the Government sought to grant it for 
twenty-one years, when a warm debate ensued. As the division was taking 
place, the ministerialists and patriots being equal, Colonel Tottenham, an op- 
positionist, entered amid great excitement, and, doubtless in his haste to appear, 
dressed in boots, which was contrary to the prescribed full-dress etiquette of 
the house. He gave his vote to the patriots ; and thus by a majority of one the 
Government was defeated by " Tottenham in his boots," the memory of which 
was honored as a patriotic toast, and long preserved in all social meetings. 

The first meeting of Parliament in the new houses in College Green was 
held on the 5th October, 1731, and the words of request and warning commenced 
at Chichester House now developed into the most vehement attacks on the 
tyrannies of Government and the audacious corruptions of the departments. Of 
course it is outside of our design and space to enter into details ; but a few illus- 




320 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



trative incidents will sufficiently indicate the position of parties, the rampant 
audacity of the one, the as defiant dignity of the other, and the progress of Parlia- 
ment toward the great reform which followed : and is inseparable from an his- 
torical notice of Dublin. In 1753, a surplus remaining in the treasury, the Com- 
mons brought in a bill to apply it to the payment of the national debt. The 

Duke of Dorset told them that the king 
" consented" and recommended them " to 
so apply it." Consent involved a princi- 
ple, and the Commons took fire at the 
word. They sent the bill to England, 
taking no notice of the royal consent, 
and it was returned with the consent in- 
troduced. The patriots were not strong 
enough to resist the interpolation, but 
next year they rejected the bill which 
had the same unconstitutional word. 
The king cut the matter short, by his 
letters patent taking the money out of 
the treasury. This act of simple despot- 
ism excited such rage among the people 
that the Duke of Dorset, previously a 
most popular viceroy, fled the country in 
abject fear.* 

In 1757, the House with its Speaker attended the viceroy with a request that 
he should lay certain resolutions relating to the public accounts before the king. 
The viceroy gave a quibbling answer and refusal ; whereon a division ensued on 
the question whether the reply was satisfactory, and the Government was beaten 
by a majority of twenty-one. " It was important to have cleared the way to the 
king, but more important to have chastised the insolence of his deputy." 

Among the greatest measures carried by the patriots was the Octennial Bill. 
One of the chief objects for which the persistent patriot Lucas had struggled 
was to limit the duration of Parliament. The lease for life which members held 
in their seats rendered responsibility a delusion — and the length to which their 
corrupt services might thus extend made the wages of servility enormous. It 
was an evil of serious magnitude ; Lucas met it with his accustomed boldness, 




Swift's BirtliphiL 



* Tlif //isliiry of //ir ]'oIunlcers of \-]?,n., chap. i. ; 1)y Thom.is MacNevin. Dublin, 1846. 



DUBLIN. 



321 



and at length triumphed. The Octennial Bill passed both houses, and when on 
February 16, 1768, the viceroy, Lord Viscount Townshend, gave the royal assent 
limiting the du- 
ration of Parlia- 
ment to eight 
years, the horses 
were taken from 
his carriage and 
the people drew 
him home. It 
was a great mea- 
sure then, al- 
chough found 
incommensurate 
to the expecta- 
tions of the pa- 
triots. The real 
advantages were 
found in the 
principle fought 
for, and the 
spirit displayed 
in the debates,* 
The next Parlia- 
ment after the 
passing of the 
Octennial Bill, 
met on the i 7th 
October, 1 769 ; 
and, as Ma c- 
Nevin says, the 

struggle between the English interest and the patriots was never more violent, 
and never more successful on the part of the friends of the people. The Irish 
Commons refused to pass a money bill sent from England, on the ground that 
" it had originated in the English Privy Council, and not in the Irish Legisla- 




St Pit) id i Ciilitd} -il—Infiiioi 



* MacNevin's //«/., p. 50. 



322 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

ture." The viceroy Townshend sought to place his protest on the books of the 
Comnions ; but they would not permit " so gross an encroachment on their 
privileges." The bill was again refused by ninety-four to seventy-one, with a 
declaratory resolution that it was rejected because it did not originate in the 
Irish Commons ; and the fight continued until, to hide his discomfiture, the 
viceroy prorogued the Parliament in a brief but offensive speech, " which the 
House, with great spirit, refused to insert upon their journals." 

This state of affairs was heightened by the events which led to the war in 
America ; and the necessity which led to the raising of the Armed Volunteers 
in Ireland. The English master of the rolls in Ireland declared that " the 
Parliament of England had a right to tax Ireland in all cases whatsoever as well 
as America ; " thus suggesting an identity of grievance and identity of resistance. 
The analogy was entirely complete, as MacNevin suggests, when the arms of 
America vindicated her freedom, and when the Constitution of Ireland was re- 
stored by the Declaration of Rights. The infatuated English Ministry, says a 
recent English writer, looked with helpless consternation at the giant specter, 
the Irish Volunteers, they had contributed to raise. " They broke up, in their 
own weakness, and their successors conceded what it was no longer practicable 
to withhold, and recognized Ireland as a Free Nation, with a Legislature Inde- 
pendent and Supreme." The declaration of surrender to the Irish Parliament 
was made on the i6th of April, 1782, before an excited House, filled in every 
part with members, Volunteer officers, ladies of rank and beauty, and the leading 
citizens. 

In the year following the independence of the Irish Parliament, the Order 
of the Knights of Saint Patrick was instituted, February 5th, and the first instal- 
lation of Knights Companions was held on the 17th March following, in St. 
Patrick's Cathedral. The general post-office of Ireland was established in 1784, 
and in 1786 the Royal Irish Academy was incorporated, the foundation of the 
Four Courts laid, and a police established in the city. In 1789 the Royal Canal 
for the north side of the Liffey was incorporated ; and in 1791 grants were made 
by Parliament for docks on the north and south sides of the port ; the Apothe- 
caries' Hall established, the first steam engine erected in Dublin by Henry 
Jackson, and a noted means of charity, the Society for the Relief of Sick and 
Indigent Room-keepers, established. An inundation of the sea in January, 1792, 
laid much of the city under water ; and a month later a fire totally consumed the 
House of Commons. 

During the four years preceding 1798, Dublin witnessed many exciting and 



DUBLIN. 



323 



V 




oppressive transactions, which culminated in unexampled violence and infamy 
during the reign of terror which distinguished and disgraced the year of the 
rebellion, and continued for as many years after. Among the leaders of the 
United Irishmen whose death on the scaffold or in jail was attended with cir- 
cumstances which have peculiarly elicited the attention of history, poetry, and 
romance, are the brothers Sheares, Oliver Bond, Dr. John Esmonde, Theo- 
bald Wolfe Tone, and Lord Edward Fitzgerald, who was surprised in bed at 
the house of Nicholas Murphy, " a re- 
spectable feather-merchant " in Thomas 
Street, on the 19th May, captured after 
a desperate struggle, and died of his 
wounds in Newgate on the 3d of June. 

The parliamentary independence of 
Ireland was short-lived. After the dis- 
bandment of the Volunteers the Govern- 
ment forced Ireland into rebellion in '98; 
and Henry Grattan, who had rocked the 
cradle of " Irish Independence," also fol- 
lowed it to its grave. By means the 
most scandalous, infamous, and corrupt, 
the so-called Irish Parliament was in- 
duced to vote its rights away, and the Union was accomplished in 1800, and on 
New-Year's Day, 1801, the imperial standard of the United Kingdoms of Great 
Britain and Ireland was first displayed on Bedford tower in the Castle, telling the 
citizens of Dublin that they no longer had a house of parliament, that the 
noble building which had resounded to eloquent appeals of justice and right, 
was now only a monument to treachery and corruption. 

In 1803, Dublin was again startled and astounded by the national movement 
known as Emmett's Rebellion. The plot had been so adroitly managed, and the 
appearance of quiet so undisturbed in the city, that the Castle authorities could 
not believe a movement was in contemplation. The accidental explosion of a 
powder depot in Patrick Street on the i6th July awakened them. The rising 
took place a week later, and resulted in total discomfiture. Robert Emmett 
escaped to the Dublin Mountains, and might, in all probability, have made his 
escape out of the country. When pressed to avail himself of an opportunity to 
do so, he said, " There is one to whom I must bid an eternal farewell, before the 
terrors of Government shall force me into exile." This one was Sarah Curran, 



Room ill ivhicJi Lord Edward was 
captured. 




SACKVILL-E STREET- -GENERAL POST OFFICE. 




KELSON'S PILLAR-FROM CARLISLE BRIDGE. 



326 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

daughter of the orator and advocate. In bidding her farewell he also bade fare- 
well to hope and life. He was captured at Harold's Cross, tried and convicted 
on the 19th September, and executed the next day on a temporary scaffold 
erected in Thomas Street nearly opposite St. Catherine's Church. 

" An American Tourist," who traveled through Ireland in the first decade of 
this century, speaking of Dublin, said it presented the most extraordinary con- 
trast of poverty and magnificence. The suburbs were composed of unseemly 
hovels, not exceeding twelve or fourteen feet square. Having passed these 
" miserable caves," the writer continues, " the dwellings improve; and, on reach- 
ing Sackville Street, you imagine yourself in one of the most elegant cities in 
Europe. In walking over the city, the late Parliament House (now the Bank), 
the Exchange, the quay along the Liffey, and several public squares, excite the 
stranger's admiration. There is no part of London which can compare with the 
center of Dublin in beauty and magnificence. But, in turning the eye from the 
architectural splendor which surrounds him, upon the crowds which flow along the 
streets, the stranger will be struck with the motley nature of the throng. Here is a 
lass almost buoyant with satin and feathers ; there is a trembling girl of eighteen, 
purple from cold, shrinking from shame, and drawing around her the poor rags 
which, with all her care, scarce cover the body ; here is an exquisite, perfuming 
the air as he passes, with rings on his fingers, diamonds on his brooch, and a 
gemmed quizzing-glass at his side ; there is an honest fellow who cannot afford 
a hat, whose feet, summer or winter, know not the luxury of shoe or stocking, 
and whose whole wardrobe consists of two articles, viz., a tattered jacket, and 
about half a pair of small-clothes ; and, not to multiply pictures, while the lord 
lieutenant dashes by in a coach and four, the stranger gazes at this gallant and 
costly pageant, while he empties his pocket to satisfy the throng of beggars who 
pray him, in the name of God, to give them a penny." ' 

A writer in the Dublin Penny Joiirnal, commenting some thirty years subse- 
quent to the visit of the American Tourist on the observations of the latter, gives 
us an idea of the improvement which had taken place — at least in Dublin — in 
the intervening period. " Happily for the citizen and the traveler," he says, 
" the last remark does not now apply, as beggars are not allowed on the streets ; 
the Mendicity Society providing what is at least sufficient to keep them (the 
beggars) from starvation. Should the American Tourist again have occasion to 
visit the metropolis, he would find the state of things much improved, although 
it must be admitted, that in many parts of the interior of the country his de- 
scriptions would be found but too faithful delineations of what still really exists ; 



DUBLIN. 



327 



but, at least for a considerable distance around the city, the squalid wretched- 
ness and the miserable dwellings he describes are not now to be met with." 

From the same writer we obtain a good idea of the growth of the city — in 
continuation of our suggestive record of its progress from the period of Guthrie's 
description — by his brief delineation of its chief features at that time — 1835: "To 
the eastward, on both sides of the river, streets and squares of the most spacious, 
airy, and elegant description have been erected within the last fifty years. Fitz- 
william Square, together with several elegant streets, have recently been formed 
toward the southeast. Most of the streets are well paved, being macadamized 




Bank of Ireland — Old Parliament House^from Southeast. 



in the center for carnages ;' while on either side, generally speaking, except in 
that part of the city denominated the Liberty, there is a well-flagged foot-path. 
The city is lighted with gas, and the inhabitants enjoy a plentiful supply of ex- 
cellent water from the Grand and Royal Canals, conveyed by pipes from large 
reservoirs, or basins, constructed at the north and south sides of the river. The 
city is encompassed by a circular road, about nine miles in length, and nearly on 
three sides by the Grand and Royal Canals, which terminate in docks communi- 
cating with the Liffey near its mouth. 

" Previous to the Union, Dublin was the constant or occasional residence of 
two hundred and seventy-one temporal and spiritual peers, and three hundred 
members of the House of Commons. At present (1835), about half a dozen 
peers' and some fifteen or twenty members of the House of Commons have a 



328 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

settled dwelling Avithin its precincts. Other persons of this exalted class of 
society, whom business or amusement may draw to the capital occasionally, take 
up their residence at one of the hotels, of which there are a great number in the 
city. The resident gentrj' of Dublin now amount to about two thousand fami- 
lies, including clergj^men and physicians, besides nearly an equal number of 
lawyers and attorneys, who occasionally reside there. The families engaged in 
trade and commerce are calculated at about five thousand, and the whole may 
yield a population of sixty or seventy thousand in the higher and middle ranks 
of societ)'." 

So much for the extent and class character of the inhabitants of Dublin forty- 
five years ago. Of the manners of the people at that time the same authoritj- 
writes: "A material change is observable in the manners of the populace of Dub- 
lin ; their ancient amusements of bull-baiting, hurling, cudgel-playing, and wres- 
tling, are almost wholly laid aside. They are still, however, careful to obsen-e 
memorable days, particularlj- the festival of St. Patrick, which is distinguished 
by the shamrock being almost universally worn, and copious libations of the 
national beverage are poured out to the patron saint. A grand ball and supper 
is given on that night in the Castle. Formerly there were seven theaters well 
supported ; at present the only one which remains is frequently ver}- thinly 
attended. Club houses and gaming houses are nearly deserted, and even among 
the lower classes open vice and profligacy have visibly diminished." 

Ten years previous, in 1825, the English traveler Brewer gave a picture of 
the Irish capital and some suggestive remarks delineating the change in commerce, 
society, and manners following the loss of the Parliament. As the seat of govern- 
ment, '"Dublin, notwithstanding the removal of its Parliament, and the conse- 
quent diminution of its fashionable circles in luster and extent, wears, in the 
populous and busy parts of the city, an aspect of splendor and gayety not to be 
witnessed elsewhere within the British dominions, except in the metropolis of 
the empire." To the "cursory spectator " and those coming from other parts of 
Ireland, the appearance of wealth and vivacity was pleasing, and no evidence of 
impaired magnificence was apparent. " At the court of the viceroy the change, 
however, is necessarily perceptible ; but the deficiency, even there, exists rather 
in rank than in numbers. It has been often remarked that the middle classes of 
society in Dublin prefer domestic to public amusements ; * and, from the paucity 

* " The change of application to which several places of amusement have become subject is worthy of remark. In 
the latter part of the last centur)- a garden was opened in the southern suburbs, under the name of Ranelagh. These 
premises are now converted into a nunnerj-, in which are educated the daughters of many highly respectable Roman 



DUBLIN. 



329 



and neglected condition of places designed for public resort, such would as- 
suredly appear to be the fact." 

" The theater for the performance of the regular drama has ever commanded 
in this city admirers and patrons ; but select and convivial meetings, often en- 
livened by music and the dance, are more consonant to the genius of the people 
than indiscriminate assemblies. It is unquestionable that the prevailing manners 




Castle- Yard. 



have become more sedate since the removal of the Parliament, and the conse- 
quent defalcation of affluent society." 

The writer was naturally a Unionist, and expressed at least a hope in its 
advantages to " the country at large," but was compelled to admit that " with- 
out examining into other effects of the Union, it is certain that the removal of 

Catholic families. A circus, built for Astley's equestrian exhibitions, is used as a charitable asylum and a meeting- 
house. On the site of the once celebrated theater of Smock Alley has lately been erected a Roman Catholic Chapel. 
Except the Theater Royal, the promenade in the gardens of the Lying-in Hospital forms the only place that, at present, 
meets with ample encouragement. " — Brewer's note. 



330 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the Irish Parliament has 'eclipsed the gayety of the nation ' and deprived the 
metropolis of too many of the noble and affluent residents who once shed so 
much luster on the society of this city. As Dublin must be viewed rather as 
the seat of government and emporium of national fashion, than as a mercantile 
city, however respectable its commerce, this deprivation is severely felt by the 
inhabitants, and is painfully perceptible in the deserted or altered state of the 
Burke Statue. principal mansions. We shall shortly have occasion to 

remark that the superb houses of the Duke of Leinster and 
Lord Viscount Powerscourt,* are now used as public build- 
ings. Many dwellings of distinguished persons are con- 
verted into hotels, where, as it has been truly observed, 
' the former proprietors occupy a room for the few days 
they remain in the metropolis in their transit to England.' 
The vacant condition of other spacious and noblg houses 
communicates, at present, an air of melancholy to many 
retired parts of the city." 

Notwithstanding the depreciating effect of the Union, 
many churches, hospitals, and other institutions of practical 
usefulness and ornament to the city were founded in the first 
quarter of the present century; among which may be noted, the Hard- 
icke Fever Hospital, or House of Recovery, St. George's Church, and 
King's Inns in 1802 ; the College of Surgeons and the Bedford Asylum, 
for the reception of one thousand children of all religious persuasions, in 1806 ; 
Nelson's Pillar in 1808; Richmond National Institution, for teaching the blind, 
in 1809 ; the basin at Portobello, to supply the southern side with water, in 1812 ; 
Richmond Bridge, and Penitentiary on the South Circular Road, near Clanbras- 
sil Street, in 1813 ; The Meath Hospital, for the weavers of the Liberties, partly 
by donation of Mr. T. Pleasants, House of Refuge, by Mrs. Theodosia Blatch- 
ford. Lunatic Asylum and General Post Office, in 18 14; St. Michael and St. 
John's Chapel, on the site of Smock Alley Theater, and St. Michael's Church, 
High Street, on the site of the old church of 1676, in 181 5 ; National Institution for 
the education of poor deaf and dumb children, the " Metal Bridge," of one span, 
over the Liffey, the Corn Exchange, and Whitworth Bridge; in 1816; in which 




* Leinster House was purchased for £20,000, in 1815, by the Royal Dublin Society, and has been occupied since by 
its Schools of Art, Museum, etc. Powerscourt House, William Street, was purchased for £15,000, in 1811, and used as 
the Stamp Office until 1834, when that department having been removed to the Custom House, it became the warehouse 
of an eminent silk mercer. 



DUBLIN. 



331 



Grattan Siaiiic. 



year steam packets first sailed from the harbor of Dublin : the Wellington Tes- 
timonial, Phoenix Park, in 1817; Mendicity Association in 1818; The Dublin 
Library in D'Olier Street opened, and Chamber of Commerce formed in 1820; 
Theater Royal, Hawkins Street, and Custom House Dock in 1821 ; Royal Hi- 
bernian Academy and the churches of St. Stephen's, Mount Street, and St. Paul's, 
in 1824. October 5th, of the following year, the city was lighted with gas. 

The visit of George IV., in August, 1821, caused unusual 
interest among all parties in Dublin. For the purpose of 
receiving him with apparent unanimity, negotiations for har- 
mony between the Orange corporation and the Catholic 
leaders, had been concluded, but were broken by the former 
in the insultino- decoration of the statue of Kina William HI. 

o & 

on the anniversary of the 12th July. On the other hand, 
the king, driven, as it were, from England, by the execra- %;jj 
tions of the people, and the cowardice of his evil conscience, 
was heralded by vague promises to conciliate the Catholics, 
and ensure him a good reception at any cost. He landed ~ 
unexpectedly at Howth on the 12th August; made a grand 
public entry into the city on the 17th, and after holding 
court at the Castle, an installation of Knights of St. Patrick at 
the cathedral, and participating in a round of pageants, entertain- 
ments, and reviews, with visits to Wicklow, Meath and Kildare, he 
embarked at Dunleary on the 3d September ; on which occasion O'Con- 
nell, at the head of a Catholic deputation, presented him with a crown of laurel. 
It is admitted that while the Catholic leaders were not misled by the promises 
preceding the visit, the reiteration of the fair assurances by the king while in 
Dublin had the effect of causing them to be generally believed;* and we may the 
less wonder at it when we read in Eldon's Memoirs, f that the king at one mo- 
-m.e.nt half believed Ynms&M that he was sincere, to the great fright of Lord Eldon 
and his associates, who thereupon hastened the measures for his departure. In 
commemoration of this visit the very ancient name of Dunleary {Dtin-Laeghaire, 
the fortress of Leary, King of Ireland at the arrival of St. Patrick) was changed 
to Kings-town, a granite monument erected (1823) near the place of the em- 
barkation, and the handsome King's Bridge built (1827) across the Liffey be- 
tween the Military Road and Park-gate Street, at the west end of the city. 




* The Select Speeches of Daniel ffConnell, M.P.; edited by his son, John O'Connell, Esq. 2 vols, 
f Memoirs of Lord Eldon, by Horace Tvviss. 



332 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Among the events of the succeeding decade, illustrating the moral and 
material progress of the city, were the erection of some markets and churches ; 
among the latter the Carmelite Church, Whitefriar Street (1825), on the site of 
the ancient monastery of White Friars; Episcopal Chapel for Seamen (1833); 
the fine church in Westland Row (1834), capable of accommodating six thousand 

persons, and the construction of 
the first railroad in Ireland. The 
first trial of the locomotive steam 
engines on the Dublin and Kings- 
town Railway was made on the 4th 
October, 1834; the mail was first 
conveyed over the road on Decem- 
ber 13th, and it was opened to the 
public on the 1 7th of the same month. 
Dublin Avas the center of the con- 
tinued agitations under the various 
committees, boards, andassociations 
which resulted in the achievement 
of the " Catholic Emancipation " 
Act of 1829. It was also the head- 
quarters of the unparalleled agita- 
tion that followed, having for its ob- 
ject the Repeal of the Union, and 
culminated in 1843 with the prohi- 
bition of the mass meeting at Clon- 
tarf, and the prosecution of O'Con- 
nell and some of his lieutenants 
and agents in the press, pulpit, and. 
rostrum. In this year the enthu- 
siasm of the people and the anxiety of the government had reached its greatest 
point of tension. No matter what O'Connell's line of policy, the people could 
scarcely have much longer withstood the tendency of his harangues, for as Canon 
O'Hagan recently said, he at times stirred them to such a pitch that " they but 
waited for him to say the word, and they would risk all in rising to free their coun- 
try, his words fell upon their souls like the fire on dried flax." The government 
understood this, and by a sudden act compelled O'Connell into the active agency 
of his peace policy at the imminent crisis. Following up the Monster Meetings 




O'Connell's Residence, Mcrrion Square. 



DUBLIN. 



333 



which had been started in March, the people were called to assemble on Sunday 
the 8th of October, on the historic shores of Clontarf, just outside of the capital, 
where Brian Boru overthrew the Danes. The neighborhood of the place of 
meeting to the city made the usual preparations and excitement more apparent, 
and as the day approached this excitement was increased by rumors of military 
interference. While it seemed the persuasion of every one that the meeting at 




Chapel Royal and Birmingham Tower. 



Clontarf would not be suffered to assemble unless at the sacrifice of blood; and 
it was currently reported that O'Connell would be seized and placed in the tower 
of Dublin Castle, if not in the Tower of London ; still no outside action was 
manifested by the authorities at the Castle, although on the evening of the 6th 
it was known that the lord lieutenant. Earl de Grey, and the lord chancellor had 
arrived, and that the Privy Council was in session. Saturday morning came, and no 
voice from the Castle. There, however, the viceroy and council were in session ; 
while not far from the other end of Dame Street, in their rooms at the Corn 



334 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Exchange, O'Connell and his committee awaited the emergency. Eleven o'clock 
came — no proclamation ! Twelve o'clock — none was issued ! One o'clock — 
still no indication of action from the Privy Council. Meantime, regiments and 
corps, ammunition and artillery were landing, and every preparation seemed 
adopted which ought to precede the employment of great military force. Two 
o'clock came, and no proclamation ! Three o'clock, and the Castle spoke 'not. 
But the intention was avowed. It was known that a proclamation had beea 
agreed to. Yet men said they would never issue a manifesto of such awful im- 
portance without due precaution, and that could only be procured by due pub- 
licity. For already, even of those not inhabitants of Dublin or the country, there 
had arrived as many as would compose a reasonable ' monster meeting.' Several 
steamers had come from Liverpool bringing repealers thence. Wexford, Newry, 
Belfast had forwarded their quotas. It was supposed to be against the principles 
of the government of Sir Robert Peel, as it was assuredly opposed to prudence, 
that such a hazard should be run as to publish a proclamation in the face of such 
a multitude. But the policy of the war party prevailed. About half-past three 
o'clock in the afternoon the first copy of the proclamation issued from the press. 
In one half hour afterwards the counter proclamation of the Repeal Association, 
signed by Daniel O'Connell, as chairman of the committee, was in circulation 
throughout the city. There never was any public document prepared with such 
dispatch, and never was there any prepared under such an awful sense of re- 
sponsibility.* The Castle proclamation prohibited the meeting ; O'Connell's 
proclamation prevented it ; utter carelessness was shown in giving publicity to 
the former ; incredible exertion was used in the extensive distribution of the 
latter. Prominent and popularly known adherents of O'Connell were dispatched 
out of the city to meet and turn back the tens of thousands on the country roads 
coming in from the adjacent counties. It was with great difficulty, in some 
instances, that these people could be induced to alter the intention with which 
they had set out. If it was the desire and design — as was generally supposed — 
of the vice-regal government to make a bloody collision between the well pre- 
pared troops and the unarmed masses of the people inevitable, the terrible pro- 
ject was frustrated by O'Connell and his friends. It is indeed undeniable that 
" the duty of preserving the peace and protecting the lives of thousands, while 
it also prevented a fearful revolution, was left to the Repeal Association." 
O'Connell and eight others were indicted and prosecuted, and the former, when 



* Itish Slate Trials, 1843-1844. Special Report of the Proceedings, etc. Edited by John Flanedy, Esq. Dublin, 
1844. 



DUBLIN. 



335 



instructed on the 14th October of the nature of the charges against him, issued 
other addresses calling on the people to " violate no law," and telling them " not 
to be tempted to break the peace." The prosecution commenced in the Court 
of Queen's Bench by the charge to the Grand Jury, on November 2d, and from 
that period forward the attention of the Dublin public of all classes and politics 
was absorbed by it to the exclusion of all other topics. To the 25th November 
was occupied in legal preliminaries, and 
the trials commenced on the 5th January, 
1844.* On this occasion an extraordinary 
spectacle was presented. So many per- 
sonal and political friends expressed anx- 
iety to accompany the chief "conspirator" 
to court, that it was necessary for the sake 
of order to arrange a programme. Hence 
at an early hour more than one side of 
Merrion Square, opposite his house, was 
filled with carriages. He rode to the 
Four Courts in a carriage with the lord 
mayor and his secretary, and was accom- 
panied by the Corporation, mostly in their 
robes, and a cortege of forty carriages headed by the city marshal on a spirited 
charger. The trial lasted until the 12th February, when he was convicted. After 
having been in Richmond Prison for about three months, the judgment was re- 
versed by the House of Lords, and his release, and the procession of trades and 
citizens which received him from the prison gates and carried him in triumph to 
his residence was one of the great Dublin events of the period. 

The political agitation continued with various fervor, but took a more posi- 
tive turn in the declarations of " Young Ireland," differing from O'Connell's 
policy of confining their energies under all circumstances to a peace policy, 
simply and solely. This party formed the " Irish Confederation " in January, 
1847. Early in the same year, a meeting of nobility and land-owners resulted 
in the formation of an " Irish Council." A " Protestant Repeal Association " 




Mornington House. 



* The names of the prosecuted Repealers were Daniel O'Connell, M.P., John O'Connell, M.P., Thomas Steele, 
Thomas Matthew Ray, Secretary of the Repeal Association, Charles (since Sir Charles) Gavan Duffy, of the Nation, 
Rev. Thomas Tiemey, of Clontibret, Rev. Peter James Tyrrell, parish priest of Lusk, Doctor (since Sir) John Gray, 
of the Freeman's Journal, and Richard Barret, of the Pilot. The Rev. Mr. Tyrrell, one of the indicted conspirators, 
died on the 4th December. His death was caused by over-exertion and anxiety. He rode all through the night of 
October 7th, preventing the people from going to Clontarf, and was saturated with rain. 



336 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



followed. The famine was in the land, and all classes felt the necessity for 
thought and action ; and the center of all was Dublin. The revolutions all over 
Europe, and especially the example of the three days of Paris in February, ex- 
cited the Nationalists to such a degree that the government took every precau- 
tion against a rising in March, 1848. The Bank of Ireland, Custom House, 

Trinity College, Royal 
Dublin Society, Royal 
Hibernian Academy, Linen 
Hall, The Rotunda, 
Holmes Hotel, Aldbor- 
ough House, Dycer's Sta- 
bles in Stephen's Green, 
and other institutions, liter- 
ary, artistic and commer- 
cial, in and about the city 
were strongly garrisoned. 
Gunboats were hastily 
built, to be thrown upon 
the Liffey, the barracks 
were provisioned as for a 
siege. The arrest of Smith 
O'Brien, Thomas Francis 
Meagher and John Mitchel 
followed. The latter, who 
expounded the most ad- 
vanced revolutionary 
doctrines in his journal. 
The United Irishman, was speedily tried, convicted, and carried off in chains. 
The suppression in July of the national organs * and the capture or dispersal of 




SiatUL of William III. 



* On the 8th of July, John Martin, Charles, Gavan Duffy, and Kevin Izod O'Doherty were arrested. In the 
evening, the offices of the Nation and Felon were ransacked ; at midnight a descent was made on the Tribune by the 
police, and on the next morning Richard D'Alton Williams, famous as Shamrock the poet, was arrested. The N^atioyi, 
edited by Duffy, had been the very soul of Young Ireland. For it the deceased Thomas Davis, the poet, a wonderful and 
indefatigable patriotic genius, had written. The other journals were started almost in the very crisis of the '48 move- 
ment. In Mitchel's History the situation is thus presented, " Yet, with all the odds against them, with the Irish gentry 
thoroughly corrupted or frightened out of their senses, and with the ' Government ' enemy obviously bent on treating our 
national aspiration as an ignominous crime worthy to be ranked only with the offences of burglars or pickpockets — still 
there were men resolved to dare the worst and uttermost for but one chance of rousing that down-trodden people. . . 



DUBLIN. 



337 



their writers, with the suspension of the Habeas Corpus act, greatly exasperated 
the people, but still almost paralyzed the movement in the city, by driving all the 
club leaders out 
of it to various 
parts of the coun- 
try. 

On a visit to 
Ireland In August 
of the following 
year, Queen Vic- 
toria sojourned in 
Dublin for a few 
days, during 
which she held a 
levee and drawing 
room at the Castle 
and attended a re- 
view in the Park. 

The Industrial 
Exhibition of 
1853 was an 
event which not 
only reflected 
credit on Dublin 
and Ireland, but 
favorably associ- 
ated its name with 
those immense 
projects w h i c h 
now symbolize the 

highest artistic The Chapel Royal— InUrwr. 




And as it was clear that there was nothing the enemy dreaded so much as a bold and honest newspaper, which would 
expose their plots of slaughter and turn their liberal professions inside out, it was, before all things, necessary to 
establish a newspaper to take the place of the. United Irishman. It was a breach as deadly and imminent as ever yawned 
in a beleaguered wall ; but men were found prompt to stand in it. Within two weeks after my trial, the Irish Tribune 
was issued, edited by O'Doherty and Williams, with Antisell and Savage as contributors." — Mitchel's Last Conquest of 
Ireland {Perhaps), p. 281, Dublin ed. The Iiish Felon, written by Martin, Thomas Devin Reilly, Fenton Lalor, and 
Joseph Brenan, appeared J"iie 24th. The suppression of these journals silenced the national press. 



338 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

and mechanical development, and bring into friendly competition the most 
valuable resources of the greatest nations and peoples of the world. The Dub- 
lin Exhibition calls for more than a passing word. It originated with William 
Dargan, a man of humble birth, who, having worked as a laborer, became a con- 
tractor, and developed projective and executive ability, and a power of mind 
that are represented in many useful and permanent works. He undertook this 
great work alone. The Royal Dublin Society granted the use of the lawn be- 
tween its building and the west side of Merrion Square. In order to add to the 
attractions of the Industrial Exhibition, Dargan was induced to associate with 
his design the creation of a great gallery for paintings and the exhibition of all 
procurable articles of virtu, the fine arts, foreign curiosities, and mediaeval and 
earlier archaeological remains ; which added much to the expense of the vast 
building. It is said that during the progress of the work repeated offers were 
made by various opulent persons to contribute in aid of the undertaking, and 
that Dargan invariably declined, determining to bear all the responsibility. The 
Exhibition was opened by Lord St. Germains, the lord lieutenant, and was 
visited by Queen Victoria, who went to Ireland in that year. The honor of 
knighthood was offered to Dargan, but " with true nobleness and simplicity he 
respectfully but firmly declined it." As a further mark of the estimation in 
which the Queen held him, her majesty took occasion to pay a visit to Dargan at 
his private residence, situated in one of the most attractive environs of Dublin, 
at Mount Anneville, near Dundrum. The munificence, manly simplicity, and 
Avorth of Dargan were appreciated by his townsmen, and at a meeting held in 
July, 1853, it was determined to perpetuate the remembrance of the good he had 
effected. Funds were collected, to which the Government added a grant, and the 
result was the founding of the Irish National Gallery, which was subsequently 
erected on a portion of the ground of the Royal Dublin Society occupied by the 
Exhibition. It was opened May 24th, 1864, by the Earl of Carlisle, and a fine 
bronze statue of Dargan in front of the building was unveiled by the same popu- 
lar lord lieutenant. The statue, by Thomas Farrell, R.H.A., stands on a block 
of Irish granite, and represents Dargan in the characteristic attitude from which 
is derived the sobriqiict then generally applied to him, of " the man with his hand 
in his pocket." 

Perhaps at no period of political agitation, with the exception of '98, did the 
excitement in the city of Dublin surpass, if indeed it equaled, that caused by 
and surrounding the movement of the Fenian Brotherhood, at various times 
from the summer of 1865 to the disestablishment of the Established Church in 



DUBLIN. 



339 



Ireland. The seizure of the Irish People, the organ of the revolutionary move- 
ment, and its conductors, on the 15th September, 1865, with the numerous arrests 
which followed, recalled the feverish feelings of '48, but extended and heightened 
by the development of a positive military element from the United States of 
America, and the discovery that 
numbers of Irish soldiers in the 
British Army were members and 
propagandists of the organiza- 
tion.* The capture of Mr. James 
Stephens on the morning of No- 
vember iith, was deemed of sur- 
passing importance, but his escape 
from Richmond Bridewell within 
two weeks aroused the fiercest ex- 
citement, renewing the activity of 
the nationalists and almost bewil- 
dering the authorities. The trials 
of the Fenian captives continued 
the political fermentation in Dub- 
lin : and the extensive demonstra- 
tions known as amnesty meetings, 
praying for the release of the 
political prisoners, led the late 
Isaac Butt, an eminent lawyer 
and litterateur, to utilize this 
spirit in a constitutional form. 
From having been the leading legal advocate of the chief Fenian prisoners, he 
became the leading figure in a new national movement by founding the Home 
Rule Party. At a conference which sat from the i8th to 21st November, 1873, in 




Moore's Birthplace — as it was. 



*"The organization is supported by money from the Irish in Amei'ica and Great Britain. . . . I send you a 
return of men who served in the American War, who are Icnown to the constabulary as Fenian agents. . . . These 
men are of the most dangerous class. They are Irishmen imbued with American notions, thoroughly reckless, and pos- 
sessed of considerable military experience, acquired on a field of warfare (the Civil War in America) .admirably adapted 
to train them for conducting an insurrection here. . . . Those known in Dublin amount to about 160. . . . This 
number is being augmented by fresh men constantly arriving from America. . . . We have found no less than three 
regular manufactories of pikes, bullets and cartridges in Dublin. . . . But the most dangerous feature in the present 
movement is the attempt to seduce the troops." — Communications from Lord Wodehouse, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, to 
Sir George Grey, the Home Secretary, London. From January 21st to February 14th, i865. 



340 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the Rotunda, the Home Rule League was formed, and the party has succeeded in 
electing a larger number of members pledged to its policy than have ever gone 
from Ireland at one time to the British Parliament. Among the other memora- 
ble events in Dublin during late years, was the erection of the Exhibition Palace 
in 1865, to serve the purposes of a permanent fine-arts exhibition, which was 
inaugurated by the International Exposition of that year; the meeting of the 
British Association in 1878; and the Centennial Celebration of the birth of the poet 
Moore on May 28th, 1879. The Centenary Committee met in the morning, and 

_ ^_ _ __ ^ at 2 P.M. the Lord Mayor and Cor- 

[ '^m poration, with deputations from 

^ various provincial municipalities, 

'< ^ went in state procession to the 

fl Exhibition Palace, where a choice 




Lyiii^-in JL,j.. 



collection of relics of Moore were on view, and where Lord O'Hagan delivered 
an eloquent panegyric on the literary powers, ardent patriotism, and domestic 
virtues of the poet. Denis Florence McCarthy wrote a beautiful ode for the 
occasion, after the delivery of which by the Rev. Chancellor Tisdall, the author, 
was called forward and crowned with a laurel wreath by the Lord Mayor, and 
proclaimed Poet Laureate of Ireland. An entertainment of national music 
followed, and was received with great enthusiasm. The house in which Moore 
was born was decorated during the day Avith green flags, and at night it was 
illuminated, while at the Mansion House there was a brilliant ball. The deter- 
mination to substitute a new statue of Moore for the old one at College Street, 
opposite the eastern front of the bank, which was unveiled in 1857, has led to the 



DUBLIN. 



341 



discovery that the latter is not only an artistic failure, but an actual fraud as 
regards the material of which it is composed, being made of zinc instead of 
bronze. 

Having thus briefly indicated the leading facts in the history and politics of 
the Irish metropolis, we shall as briefly add some data illustrating the character 
of its commerce and extent of its population before proceeding to the objects 
which may individually command the attention of pen or pencil. It is said that 
when surveying the handsome and solidly built granite docks on both sides of 
the eastern extremity of the 
city, Mr. Wm. E. Gladstone was 
" surprised beyond measure " at 
the activity he witnessed, and is 
reported to have declared that 




The Four Courts (of Law). 

" Dublin was the busiest capital in her majesty's dominions after London." 
The prospect of trade which is regarded as encouraging, is expected, accord- 
ing to a recent report on the subject, within a few years to undergo great aug- 
mentation, for accommodations in the shape of docks and warehouses, and an 
immense hotel — probably now finished — were being prepared at Holyhead, for 
the sole purpose of developing the commercial relations between England and Ire- 
land. Intercourse is maintained by the shipping of Dublin with Norway, America, 
and Russia; but the cross Channel trade is the most important of the port indus- 
tries. Great Britain furnishing a most extensive market for all sorts of Irish 
produce, especially cattle. The customs duties collected at the port of Dublin 
amount to over ^900,000 a year. 



342 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Though a small city, Dublin is the seat of many thriving manufactures. In 
ancient days the staple industry was that in woolen goods, including the friezes 
Avorn so generally by the people ; and in i 792 as many as five thousand persons 
were engaged in working woolen looms in the " Liberties." This trade has, 
however, decayed, and the commercial reputation of Dublin is now more dis- 
played in poplin, linen, and paper manufactures. The linen manufacture was 
originated by Strafford when viceroy of Ireland, who gave ^30,000 of his private 
property to establish it. He encouraged the importation of flaxseed from Hol- 
land, erected looms, and placed skilled for- 
eigners over them. A public grant of money 
was given by Queen Anne to build a Linen 
Hall, the capacious building in which sales, 
|1^ though greatly diminished, are still contin- 
ued ; the export value from Dublin of these 
linen yarns and manufactures alone exceeds 
^10,000,000 annually. 

The city is also celebrated for its porter 
breweries and whisky distilleries. Of the lat- 
ter, Ireland possesses thirty as against nine 
I in England, and most of these are in Dublin. 
Scotland is in reality the " whisky country," 
having now in existence no less than one hun- 
dred and thirty distilleries. There is, however, 
it appears, a considerable quantity of the cele- 
brated " mountain dew " or " poteen," with its peculiar, and to some nostrils, 
tempting aroma of turf flavor, still produced among the wilder districts of Ire- 
land ; a recent return showing that 176 persons were tried for selling untaxed 
spirits. 

The inland trade from Dublin is carried on chiefly by several railways, three 
of which have vast depots and termini at the North Wall. The revenue produced 
by railways in Ireland is largely augmented by there being no passenger duty.' 
These roads are constructed in the best manner, and the termini of several — 
especially those of the Dublin and Drogheda, in Amiens Street, the Midland 
Great Western, at the Broad Stone, and the Great Southern and Western, at 
King's Bridge — may be enumerated as adding to the architectural beauty of the 
city, being regarded in their styles as fully equal to any in Britain. There are 
two canals — the " Grand " and the " Royal " — which, starting from north and 




Moore's Birthplace — as it is. 



DUBLIN. 343 

south of the Liffey, encircle the city, and proceed thence to MulHngar and the 
Shannon, and by means of these an extensive trade in bricks, timber, turf, and 
coal is maintained. 

Unlike London and other cities whose fashionable elements turn toward a 
" west end," the Irish metropolis has its most select associations in the south- 
east. The Castle, the University, the Catholic University, College of Surgeons, 
the principal scientific institutions, banks, theaters, and finer squares and streets 
are in this division. The houses are older and in point of appearance inferior 
to the more modern west end of London, yet, adds Fraser, " they are in every 
way equally adapted to health and comfort, as well as to the enjoyment of all the 
hospitalities and refinements of the age ; while the included areas of some of the 
squares, devoted solely to the purposes of recreation, are equally adorned and 
much larger — Merrion Square containing 12, and Stephen's Green 23 acres. As 
a southern wing to this southeastern district, but still under the old local names 
of Rathmines, Ranelagh, and Rathgar, a great extent of streets have sprung up 
within the past twenty-five years. They a.re chiefly occupied by ' the middle 
classes,' and are laid out with much regard to health and comfort." The wide 
avenues, the large gardens attached to the houses, and the beautiful scenery 
around give the whole a cheerful, rural, and healthy aspect. We have taken 
some pains to collect the figures showing the progress of the population, as fol- 
lows : In 1610, the population of the city and suburbs was 26,000; in 1644, 
the city was " numbered " and only 8,159 returned, of whom 5,551 were Protes- 
tants and 2,608 Catholics ; in 1682, Sir William Petty's return gave the city a 
population of 69,090; in 1728, it was 146,075; and in 1777, 127,208. These 
fluctuations, owing to political and religious causes and to want of precision in 
the enumerations, are not observable in the figures for this century. In 1803, 
the population was 172,094, which in 18 13 had increased only to 175,319. The 
next eight years more than trebled the increase of the previous ten years, and 
continued to show an increase save in the decade between 1851 and 1861. The 
estimate of the Registrar General of the population in 1876 was 417,717, show- 
ing an increase of 150,000 on the census of 1871.* 

Among the most historical of the ancient edifices of Dublin are, par excel- 
lence, Christ's Church Cathedral, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and the Castle. 

The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, commonly called Christ's Church, is of 

* The following are the returns during the present century : In 1S05, the population was 172,094 ; in 1813, 
175.319 ; 1821, 185,881 ; 1831, 203,752 ; 1S41, 232,725 ; 1851, 258,361 ; 1861, 254,293 ; 1S71, 267,717 ; and estimate 
in 1876, 417,717. 



344 



PICTURE SO UE I RE LA ND. 



very ancient origin, its vaults, according to its archives, having been formed by 
the Danes before the arrival of St. Patrick, who afterward celebrated mass in one 
of them. The church, as it now stands, was founded, however, about the year 
103S, by Sitric MacAulaffe, king of Dublin, and Donatus, the first Ostman bishop 
of Dublin. St. Laurence O'Toole, who became archbishop of Dublin in 1162, 
appears to have received the cooperation of Strongbow, and his companions 
in arms, Raymond Le Gros and Robert Fitzstephen, in the erection of the choir, 
the tower, two chapels, and the general enlargement and completion of the cathe- 
dral toward the close of the twelfth century. Parliaments have been held in it ; 

and here, as before 
stated, the impostor Sim- 
nel was crowned, 1487. 
In such veneration were 
the precincts of the 
cathedral held that the 
city, in 1497, granted 
libert}- from arrests and 
other molestations to all 
^ persons who should come 
to visit any shrine or 
relique in it. George Brown, an apostate Augustinian of London, having been 
made the first archbishop of Dublin of the Reformation, in 1535 removed the 
shrines and reliques from St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ's Church ; and in 
1538 had the celebrated crozier of St. Patrick, th.(t Bac hail losa, staff of Jesus, 
with which the apostle had struck down the idols, and which had been brought 
from Armagh in i iSo, publicly burned here. On Easter Sunday, 1550, the liturgy 
in English was first read in Christ's Church. 

Strongbow, the " principal invader," died in 11 77, and according to Giraldus 
Cambrensis, "was interred in Christ's Church, and his funeral obsequies were 
performed by Archbishop Laurence O'Toole." A doubt has recently been thrown 
on the truth of this statement by Canon Finlayson, who expects to prove that 
the arms on the tomb — known for centuries as Strongbow's Monument — are not 
those of Strongbow, but of his follower, Fitz-Osbert. On the left of the recum- 
bent figure on the monument is a half figure recumbent also on a tortis. It has 
been supposed that this was the efiigy of his wife, the Princess Eva, which was 
broken by the falling of the roof and nave in 1562 ; but it is more reasonably 
regarded as the tomb of his son, whom he cut in two for having fled in a fight 




New Railwt\ B> idgo )t,i.i //u Liff^y 



DUBLIN. 



345 




Statue of Oliver Goldsmith. 

with the Irish. This would account for the half-length figure, which bears no 
evidence of having been broken, but on the contrary is finished quite round. 
The tomb of Strongbow acquired additional notoriety from a custom of paying 
tithes to the clergy upon it. The monument is of the altar-tomb character, on 



346 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

the top of which lies a warrior in chain armor with legs crossed. Above it, a 
stone in the wall bears the following inscription : 

THIS : AVNCYENT : MONVMENT : OF : STRANGEOWE : CALLED : COMES : 

STRANGVLENSIS : LORD : OF : CHEPSTO : AND : OGNY : THE : FIRST : AND : 

PRINCIPAL : INVADER : OF : IRELAND : I 1 69 : QVI : OBIIT : I I 77 : THE : 

MONUMENT : WAS : BROKEN : BY : THE : FALL : OF : THE : ROFF : AND : 

BODYE : OF : CHRISTES : CHVRCHE : IN : AN : 1562 : AND : SET : VP : 

AGAYN : AT : THE : CHARGYS : OF : THE : RIGHT : HONORABLE : SR : HENIRI : 

SYDNEY : KNYGHT : OF : THE : MOST : NOBLE : ORDER : L : PRESIDENT : 

WAILES : L : DEPUTY : OF : IRLAND : 1570. 

Within a few years Mr. Henry Roe, a well-known Irish distiller, has restored 
this venerable and historical pile at a cost of more than a million of dollars 
(^200,000), and added ^20,000 sterling more for the sustainment of the clergy 
and choir. The architect, Mr. G. E. Street, intrusted with the work of restora- 
tion, has adhered with success as much as possible to the designs of the founders. 
The length of the nave and choir is 260 feet, of the transept 210 feet and the 
breadth 80 feet. An old doorway of antiquarian interest in the south transept, 
cleaned and repaired, now constitutes the grand entrance opposite Christ's Church 
Place ; the north exterior, a huge buttressed wall, has the appearance of a fortress. 
Formerly the building rested on arches, which were used as shops and low taverns. 
The Danes used to transact their business in these arches, and long after the 
conquest the " nave itself was desecrated, not only by ' the tables of the money 
changers,' but by still more unseemly exhibitions." 

In the summer of 1878, while engaged in the work of restoration, the stone 
figure of a woman was unearthed which may prove to be the long-lost monument 
of Eva. Other tombs of interest attract attention, the principal of which are 
those to Archbishop Comyn, the early renovator of the cathedral, and to Sir John 
Stevenson, the first native boy who was permitted to enter its music school, late 
in the last century, and became famous as the arranger of the music to " Moore's 
Irish Melodies." In 1300, a rivalry between Christ's Church and St. Patrick's 
was terminated by giving precedence to the former. Since the Disestablishment 
Act of 1869, Christ's Church has been made the Cathedral of the Dublin diocese, 
and St. Patrick's has been declared the National Cathedral of Ireland. 

The Cathedral of St. Patrick's is undoubtedly in many respects, from its his- 
tory and associations, one of the principal ecclesiastical structures in Ireland. 
Authentic records show that about the year 448 St. Patrick converted Alphin 



DUBLIN. 



347 



MacEochy, king of Dublin, and many of his people, and baptized them in a well 
situated near the north transept, which still exists. Near this a place of wor- 
ship was erected, which must have existed for a long period, as in 890 Gregory 
of Scotland and his followers attended worship in it. On the site of this edifice 
Archbishop Comyn, in 11 90, began the present building; in 1362, it was seri- 
ously damaged by fire, and it was added to and decorated by Archbishop Minot, 
who held the see in 1 730. The steeple, 
of the lancet order, is of this date. The 
cathedral Is cruciform, consisting of 
nave, transepts, choir, and Lady Chapel. 
The extreme length of the main build- 
ing is 300 feet ; the subdivisions mea- 
suring respectively, nave 130, choir 90, 
and Lady Chapel 55 feet ; transept 
160 feet, breadth 80 feet. The ceilmg 
of the nave is open, that of the choir is 
groined. The tower on the northwest 
corner is 120 feet high, and the spire 
1 01 feet. " As high as St. Patrick's 
steeple," is a Dublin phrase. There is 
no other steeple in the city approaching 
the height save the beautiful spire of 
St. George's Church, which is 200 feet, with the additional advantage of being on 
a site nearly 100 feet above the sea level. The north transept, used as the parish 
church of St. Nicholas Without, was rebuilt in 1821. 

Were all records of its history lost, the occurrence of a peculiar device — viz., 
a half-moon and star inclosed within a triangle, which appears among the de- 
tails of its decoration — would indicate the date of the church. The history of St. 
Patrick's partakes largely of that of the country. Essentially Irish in the begin- 
ning, it found new rulers In the hands of Norman or Anglo-Norman authorities, 
and for ages " no Irish need apply " for post or dignity in connection with its 
services. This rule applied not only to St. Patrick's but to every ancient estab- 
lishment over which English influence extended in Ireland. At length, a period 
arrived in the history of the church, when the descendants of the Normans, and 
the " mere Irish," who were at all times equally good Catholics, were dealt with 
alike. In fact, this church was unchurched as far as possible, its revenues seques- 
trated, its furniture sold, and its shell used according to necessity as a parliament 




View down Dafiie Street from Trinity College- 

Grattan's Statue, King Williams 

in the rear. 



348 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

house, stable, courts of law, or a barrack. Again it returned to the holy purposes 
of its founders, and was again wrested from them ; and after the waves of faction 
and intolerance had shattered its walls and dimmed its beauties it seemed to set- 
tle down as a dilapidated, but in part decent, church of the Episcopalians. Then 
came Cromwell, who objected, and the Protestant book of common prayer, and all 
other " popish books " used in the service, were publicly burned, and the church 
became the stable of some of the Protector's cavalry. No building could stand for 
centuries the wear and tear of such a succession of events, and it is no wonder that 
long before Dean Swift's time it was almost a ruin. Some spasmodic attempts at 
restoration were made during the last century. The glorious old pile, in its nave 
and arches, seemed, as it were, dropping its stones as a moulting bird its feathers. 
The whole southern wall threatened to come down at any moment ; and interiorly 
it became necessary to prop up some of the arches of the nave. The Avhole as- 
pect of the building was one of dinginess and ruin — crumbling walls, moldering 
arches, rotten props, faded banners, and broken pavements, the sole memorials 
of the place. Just as all hope of the possible continued existence of St. Patrick's 
seemed given over, it entered the mind of a citizen of Dublin to renew it for his 
countrymen for at least another 700 years ! Thus has St. Patrick's been restored 
at a cost estimated at ;^i 60,000, the princely outlay of Benjamin Lee Guinness, 
proprietor of the world- renowned porter brewery. 

The church exhibits that style of architecture prevailing in Ireland at the 
close of the twelfth and beginning of the thirteenth century — a style which pos- 
sesses many national characteristics ; and the restoration has been so complete 
that it presents now as nearly as possible the same appearance it did over 600 
years ago. Such portions of new work as it was found necessary to introduce, are 
carefully copied from the original designs, but a very considerable portion of the 
ancient structure still remains visible, or has been simply recased where the stone 
had suffered from the effects of either fire or water — the accidents or neglect of 
centuries. Within the close or boundary once stood the palace of the archbishop, 
the houses of the dean, and other dignitaries, which were in a state of decay 
and desolation until the work of renovation, Avhich was superintended by Mr. 
Guinness himself. " It was reopened for public worship on the 24th February, 
1865, in presence of the lord lieutenant, the Episcopal archbishop, and an immense 
assembly of distinguished citizens. The public fully appreciated the munificence 
of Mr. Guinness. The Queen, with universal approbation, soon after created 
him a baronet. He was unanimously returned to Parliament as one of the city 
members, and when he died, the same honor was conferred upon his eldest son. 



350 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

for his father's sake." Besides the interest which attaches to St. Patrick's Cathe- 
dral as the finest and most complete specimen of mediseval architecture remain- 
ing in Ireland, it is connected with some grand historical ceremonies, some of 
which have been noticed : and some of the monuments in it will prove attractive 
to visitors as long as it exists. Here, beneath two simple marble slabs, rest the 
remains of Dean Swift and Mrs. Hester Johnston, known as " Stella." A bust 
of the great dean, which stands close by, was the gift of J. S. Faulkner, nephew 
and successor of Alderman John Faulkner, the original publisher of most of 
Swift's works. It is said to be a striking likeness. There is a tablet to Alex- 
ander McGee, servant to the dean, erected by his " grateful master in memory 
of his discretion, fidelity, and diligence in that humble station." On the south 
side of the choir may be seen a full-length effigy of an ecclesiastic, discovered 
during the recent work of restoration, and supposed to represent Archbishop 
Comyn, the original builder of the cathedral. The monument of another arch- 
bishop, Michael Tregury, the builder of the tower, may be seen in the nave. A 
monument of enormous height and architectural pretensions, erected in 1631 to 
the memory of Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork, represents that nobleman, his wife, 
and a rather numerous family, in the costume of the period. This " unsightly relic 
of barbarism " originally stood in the choir, but it has been judiciously removed 
to the west end of the nave, where it forms a curious antiquarian study. Duke 
Scomberg, who fell at the Boyne a.d. 1690, has an inscribed tablet in the northern 
transept, and over it is hung the chain-shot by which General St. Ruth was killed 
at the battle of Aughrim. Among other monuments are those of Carolan, the 
last of the Irish bards ; of Curran, the orator ; of Charles Wolfe, author of the 
" Burial of Sir John Moore ; " of Archbishop Whately ; of Lord Mayo, Governor 
General of India; of Dame St. Leger, who was married to four husbands, and 
yet died at the age of ^"j ; of Samuel Lover, song-writer, artist, and novelist, and 
a host of other distinguished men. A monument to Captain Boyd, late of H.M.S. 
Ajax, who lost his life on the eastern pier at Kingstown while endeavoring to 
save the crews of two perishing wrecks, will claim attention. The likeness is 
excellent, and the captain is represented as seen a moment before the fatal wave 
carried him and seven of his crew into eternity. A monument to the officers 
and men of the famous i8th Royal Irish who fell during the Indian mutiny, is 
decorated with the bullet-torn colors of the regiment, which, after having traveled 
over half the globe and seen many years of eventful service, may still be consid- 
ered in the service of the regiment. Apropos of banners, a picturesque effect of 
historical suggestiveness is produced by the armor and banners of the Knights of 



DUBLIN. 



351 



/ 



the Order of Saint Patrick, the ensigns of the living knights being openly sus- 
pended from staves in the choir, those of the deceased knights being displayed 
in the body of the nave. The exquisitely designed and wonderfully wrought 
stone pulpit at the entrance to the choir may be considered as a monument, it 
having been erected by Guinness in memory of his friend, the late Dean Paken- 
ham, who made great efforts to restore the Lady Chapel. In April, 1879, ^ firi^ 
memorial window to William M. Balfe, the musical composer, 
a native of Dublin, was unveiled in the south aisle. The genius 
of Erin, her left hand resting on an Irish harp, is represented 
in the act of placing the laurel wreath on the head of Balfe. It 
was erected through the devoted efforts of Sir Robert Stewart, 
Mus. Doc, one of the vicars choral of the Cathedral, who gave 
three lectures on Irish music for the purpose. The music and 
choral services at this cathedral are considered not second to 
any in the empire. 

The most eminent Dean of St. Patrick's — and one of the 
greatest writers and satirists of any time — Jonathan Swift, was 
born on the 30th November, 1667, at No. 9 in Hoey's Court, 
at the house of his uncle. Counselor Godwin Swift. Hoey's 
Court, in our memory, v,fas a dilapidated aperture between 
Werburgh Street and the Castle Steps, but in the seventeenth 
century was the abode of some of the chief lawyers of the city. 

On coming into Dublin by the Liffey, the first grand object seen in the city 
is the Custom House — the architectural merits of which are of so striking a 
character as to justly make it an object of pride with the inhabitants, and of 
admiration with every tasteful visitor. It is on the north bank, and is truly a 
grand edifice, " colossal and beautiful," says a recent writer,* " surpassing in mag- 
nificence the Custom House of London, having four fronts built of Irish granite 
and Portland stone." Brewer says, " as an object of architectural grandeur it is, 
perhaps, secondary only to the Bank, among those public buildings for which 
Dublin is celebrated throughout Europe." The architect was James Gandon, to 
whose genius Dublin is indebted for several architectural beauties. The four 
fronts are finished with equal care, the princpal being on the south, facing the 
river. The form is an oblong quadrangle 375 feet long and 209 feet deep. The 
plan comprises a central pile 130 feet wide and extending the entire depth, two 




Ogham Stone, in 
Trinity College. 



* Mr. George Wheeler in the London Graphic, who accompanied tlie British Association to Dublin in July, 1878. 



352 



PICTURE SO UE IRE LA ND. 



interior courts, respective!)' east and west, and wings in the same directions. 
The Doric order is adopted in the columns, and the embelHshments show some 
felicitous additions to the austere simplicity of that style. In the center of the 
grand south front four massive Doric columns support an entablature with pro- 
jecting cornice and frieze of ox-heads connected by garlands. Above this is a 
pediment, the tympanum of which is filled with grand sculpture, surmounted by 

noble statues. Above the attic story 
rises a magnificent lantern, twenty-six 
feet in diameter, adorned by an encir- 
cling colonnade of forty insulated pil- 
lars, with four flat canopies projecting 
from the quadrants. Over this is a 
second lantern, or clock story, from 
which springs a cupola of graceful 
convergence 125 feet in height, sup- 
porting a statue of Hope resting on an 
anchor, 16 feet high. At either end 
of the front are square pavilions con- 
nected with the center by buildings of 
similar height and design, but pierced 
in the lower story by arcades, which 
add a most picturesque effect of light 
and shade at all times. 

In this grand and imposing front, not only the entire effect, but, as Mr. 
Brewer suggests, many of the minute embellishments are highly worthy of 
deliberate and repeated examination. On the keystones of the arches of en- 
trance — sixteen in number — are heads emblematic of so man)' rivers of Ireland, 
each being indicated by the productions peculiar to the river and to its banks. 
In the tympanum of the pediment is a group in alto relievo, representing Bri- 
tannia embracing Hibernia, holding emblems of Peace and Liberty. They are 
attended by Strength, Justice, and Victory. These figures are seated in a marine 
chariot, drawn by sea-horses, and attended by Tritons. At a little distance, a 
fleet of merchant vessels are nearing the shores of Ireland. All of these works — 
river-heads and allegory — were designed and executed by Edward Smith, who 
possessed the vigor of imagination, originality of conception, and boldness of 
execution, the combination of which is necessary to equip a great sculptor. The 
four allegorical figures representing Industry, Commerce, Wealth, and Navigation, 




Bell Tower, Trinity College. 



DUBLIN. 



35: 



over the pediment on the south, and the statues over the north front on Beres- 
ford Place representing the four quarters of the globe, are by the London sculp- 
tor, T. Banks, R.A. 

The old Custom House was situated in Essex Street, but in consequence of 
the rapidly increasing prosperity of the city, the Irish Parliament in 1794 voted 
half a million to erect this edifice. The customs and excise of Dublin alone are 
managed here, those of the rest of Ireland being transacted in London. There 
are in it, however, offices for the Boards of Public Works, Woods and Forests, 
Stamps, Fisheries, and Poor-Law Commissioners. 

Carlisle Bridge, the first on the LifTey, and connecting Sackville, the greatest 
of the leading thoroughfares, and Westmoreland streets, is a point from which 




Trinity College — the Quadrangle. 



several views present themselves, unsurpassed, if equaled, in grandeur, beauty, 
and extent by any from one given point in any other city in Europe. The 
long-continued line of quays extending through the center of the city from 
Ringsend to King's Bridge, and making the river thus confined within solid 
masonry like a broad canal spanned by eight bridges, presents varying scenes of 
activity and interest ; in the inland distance the dome of the Four Courts, and 
spires of churches indicating historical or venerable localities. In the direction 
of the bay, and at a short distance, the Custom House is seen; and in front 
looking north, Sackville Street filled with lofty houses and lined with splendid 
shops (stores). The delight and appreciation of travelers have made Sackville 
Street in repute one of the streets of the world. The writer just quoted, in an 
unbiased description, briefly indicates the extent, character, leading features, and 
picturesqueness of the locality. He says, " There is no wider, or in point of 
vista, no more beautiful street in Europe," and that " there is much airiness and 
lightness and grace " about it, more than in the " bustling boulevard of America — 
23 



354 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

the Broadway of New York," and continues : " These effects are not produced 
by an absence of that animation which one expects to find in the center of a 
capital, for there is abundance of it here, but the street is so expansive, Hke the 
great and busy Square at Alexandria more than anything else, and the houses 
and public buildings dwarf all street objects into such diminutiveness, that light 
Irish cars may be dashed past you, tramcars may be turning the corners of the 
streets on their way to the terminus at the base of Nelson's Pillar, and coal drays 
in lines may be swiftly moving toward the ships moored to the quays, and yet 
neither all these, nor the hundreds of people on the broad pavements convey to 
you ideas of crowding, or of that overwhelming ponderous business activity you 
get in either London or Liverpool. It is the grace of the place that is its prin- 
cipal charm. In no other street in the world will you at certain hours of the day 
see so many young and beautiful women promenading up and down between the 
trees (which afford some shelter as well as much ornamentation to the pathways), 
and the pleasant shops, and if these do not attract your gaze you have public 
buildings with Ionic columns to glance at, and hotels — mansions of hotels — and 
not those with flaming posters, glaring forth from chimney stacks and side walls ; 
and, lastly, you have right in the center of this street the Nelson Column with the 
gallant admiral standing bareheaded at the top and leaning against a capstan, 
and not, as on the London monument, against a tiny coil of rope — as if any one 
could gain support from that ! If you want to take in all the picturesqueness at 
once, you must stand on Carlisle Bridge and look down the roadway till your 
eyes meet the Rotunda and the church spires that seem to pierce the sky above 
the houses at the Rutland Square end of Sackville Street. You will at once 
admit that it is no wonder this magnificent avenue is the favorite street of the 
citizens of Dublin, for you can see nothing before you but taste and beauty and 
prosperity." 

The General Post Office is a building remarkable for its elegance of de- 
sign, and excellent position. Standing in Sackville, at the southern corner of 
Earl Street, a fine view of the front elevation of the edifice with the portico 
in effective relief is obtained. The noble portico, eighty feet long, is thrown 
entirely across the sidewalk, without the aid of lateral columns, and consists of 
six stately Ionic pillars, fluted, four and a half feet in diameter, supporting aa 
entablature, the frieze of which is enriched by the wild honeysuckle, executed in 
high relief. This supports a richly corniced pediment surmounted by statues — 
Hibernia in the center, with Mercury on the right and Fidelity on the left. It 
was designed by Francis Johnston, and the statues are by John Smyth. The 



DUBLIN. 355 

foundation was laid August 12, 18 14, by Lord Whitworth, Viceroy, and opened 
on the 6th January, 1818, at a cost of ;^8o,ooo. 

The Lying-in Hospital, a handsome building and noble charity, was founded 
through the indefatigable exertions of Dr. Bartholomew Mosse, and was opened 
on the 8th December, 1757. It was the intention of the earnest founder to rear 
the infants born in the Institution, give them appropriate education, and appren- 
tice them to trades. But this and other grand projects for the maintenance of 
his favorite asylum were ended by his death at the early age of forty-seven, 
about two years after its opening. The Rotunda, a series of fine rooms, used for 
meetings, balls, and exhibitions, is at the corner of Rutland Square ; and the 
profits accruing from both go to the support of the adjoining hospital. 

The Nelson Monument is a tall fluted column of 70 feet, rising on a massive 
pedestal of 30 feet, and supporting, on a Doric capital, a second pedestal, on 
which the statue, 13 feet, of the naval hero, rests ; making in all a height of 134 
feet. It stands near the Post Office, in the center of Sackville Street. In June 
of the present year (1879), ^ statue of Sir John Gray was erected in Sackville 
Street. An associate of O'Connell in the Repeal Trials of 1843, subsequently a 
Member of Parliament for Kilkenny City, owner and editor of the Freemaiis 
yournal, Gray was esteemed by the city for his efforts in bringing the Var- 
try Water to its inhabitants. The statue, which stands midway between the 
pillar and Carlisle Bridge, is said to be a fine work of art, the product of the 
gifted sculptor, Thomas Farrell, R. H.A., who also executed the noble statue of 
the high-minded patriot William Smith O'Brien, which stands near by. In the 
same vicinity the corner-stone of a monument to O'Connell was laid in August, 
1864. The accepted design was by John Henry Foley, who had nearly com- 
pleted the model at the time of his death.'* 



* It will not be out of place in a note to refer to this work, which, when completed, will be a monument to the 
sculptor's genius, not less than to tlie subject of it. The monument consists of tliree parts : — i. A drum, wliiclr is to rest 
on a stone pedestal, on which is to stand the colossal figure of the great Tribune. 2. Four seated winged Victories, 
placed at equal distances around the drum, and on the same elevation, but not reposing against it. 3. The figure of 
O'Connell. The drum is ornamented with fifty figures which are grouped around it, fourteen in such high relief as to be 
regarded almost as statues. The principal figure is Erin trampling upon broken fetters, and pointing with her uplifted right 
arm to O'Connell. She stands seven feet and a half high. Her head is wreathed with shamrocks and her left hand holds 
a scroll recording O'Connell's deeds. The other figures in bold relief and seven feet high afe emblematic of Art, Science, 
Religion, Industry, Study, etc. This drum with its fifty figures was complete before Foley's death. The heads, the 
most important parts of the four Victories, had been modeled for some time, and the sculptor had given the finishing 
touches to the head of O'Connell a few weeks before his fatal illness. The chief figure stands thirteen feet high. The 
shields emblematic of the four provinces were not modeled full size : but the great features of the design were left com- 
pleted by the master's hand. 



356 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




At the south side 
of Carlisle Bridge — 
the beholder looking 
down Westmoreland 
Street, catches a side 
view of the front 
of Trinity College 
on the left, facing 
College Green, the 
entrance to busy 
Grafton Street in 
the distance ; and on 
the right, the eastern 
portico and wing of 
the Bank of Ireland. 
So that standing on 
Carlisle Bridge a 
really remarkable 
and beautiful series 
of views are at our 
command. As we 
Avrite, we learn from 
a Dublin letter (June 
28, 1879), that old 
Carlisle Bridge is 
being taken down ; 
to be replaced by a 
level and wider 
structure. 

The Law Courts, 
a noble series of 
buildings known as 
the '■ Four Courts," 
may vie with any edi- 
fice of modern times 
erected for a similar 
purpose. Situated 



DUBLIN. 



357 



on the north bank of the Liffey, the solid quay walls of which are here sur- 
mounted by a heavy balustrade from Richmond to Whitworth bridges, they 
present a very noble appearance. They occupy the former site of the Dominican 
monastery of Saint 
Saviour, and the 
pile, completely 
isolated between 
Pill Lane and Inns 
Quay on the north 
and south, and 
Chancery Place 
and Morgan Place 
on the east and 
west, is deservedly 
esteemed, for gran- 
deur of design and 
effect, as well as 
for extent and con- 
venience, as one of 
the finest public 
buildings in Dub- 
lin. The effect is 
especially elegant 
and magnificent 
from the opposite 
side of the Liffey. 
The plan consists 
of a center, with 
court-yards at 
either side, which 
are inclosed by 
buildinofs for the of- 




Libra^y, Trinity College. 



ficers of the different courts, entered by grand archways surmounted by emblems 
of Justice, Law, Security, etc., and connected with the center and wings by ele- 
gant open arcades. The grand front of the central edifice consists of a noble 
portico of six Corinthian columns, in the semicircular recess of which is the prin- 
cipal entrance to " the Hall." The columns support a suitably massive pediment, 



358 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

with colossal statues of Moses on the apex, and Justice and Mercy on either side. 
At the extremities of the balustrade, above coupled Corinthian pilasters are 
statues, in sitting posture, of Wisdom and Authority. Over the center of the 
body of the building rises a circular lantern, sixty-four feet in diameter, pierced 
by twelve windows, and exteriorly ornamented by twenty-four beautiful three- 
quarter columns, over which a handsome entablature continued all around forms 
the verge of the capacious dome which crowns the whole. Interiorly the central 
pile is square, the sides of which measure 140 feet, within which is a circle of 64 
feet diameter under the lantern. The Four Courts of Law occupy the angles of 
the square, and the area of the circle is left for public accommodation as a com- 
mon hall. On a pedestal in the center stands a colossal statue of Truth, holding 
a torch from which issue brilliant jets of gas to light the hall in the evenings. 
A statue of Sir Michael O'Loghlen, Master of the Rolls, by the great sculptor 
Hogan, will command attention. Round the hall are eight entrances approached 
by three steps, the southern leading from the grand portico, the opposite one to 
a rectangular hall, leading to the rear of the building, to the Library up-stairs, 
and to the Rolls and Nisi Prius Courts. The eastern and western entrances 
communicate with the court-yards, and in the intervals are four entrances to the 
Courts of Chancery, Queen's Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer. Between 
these entrances are coupled Corinthian columns 25 feet high, the upper parts being 
fluted, which support an attic pedestal with sunk panels over the eight openings 
below, those over the entrances to the courts containing bas-reliefs of four great 
historical events : i. William the Conqueror establishing courts of justice, feudal 
and Norman laws. 2. King John signing Magna Charta before the barons. 
3. Henry IL receiving the Irish chiefs, and granting a charter to the City of 
Dublin. 4. James I. abolishing the Brehon laws, tanistry, gavelkind, gossipred, 
and publishing an Act of Oblivion. The whole, says Walsh, "with the sculpture 
on the external of the building, are in the pure style of the antique, admirably 
executed by the able hand of Mr. Edward Smith, a native artist."" 

* Edward Smith was a man of superior genius. His name appears only once in the catalogues of the Irish Academy, 
in 1772, when he exhibited his model of the statue of Lucas, but he has left a number of admirable works on the public 
buildings. " The figures on the Law Courts, and those on the east front of the Bank, are, in my judgment, worthy of 
any sculptor of any age or country. . . . His works have that sort of freshness about them that can only be pro- 
duced by minds endowed with great and just perceptions in art, and who look solely to nature for the materials by which 
they are to convey in a tangible form these genuine expressions to the public mind. The proofs of his genius we have 
already noticed, some others are in possession of the nobility. He appears to have resembled Goldsmith in mind, but 
Robert Burns in conduct, and both in genius. . . . His profession brought him, for several years, a large income, 
but he realized nothing. At length, when the Royal Dublin Society established a school of sculpture. Smith was elected 
Master at £ioo a year, which he lield during the remainder of his life." — The Oiigiit, Progress, mid Present Condition of 



DUBLIN. 



359 



There are other appropriate historical decorations, embracing between the 
eight windows of the dome colossal statues in alto-relievo of Liberty, Justice, 
Wisdom, Law, Prudence, Mercy, Eloquence, and Punishment ; and in the frieze 
over the windows are medallions of eight eminent ancient law-givers, Moses, 
Lycurgus, Solon, Numa, Confucius, Alfred, Man- 
cho Capac, and Ollamh Fodla. The rest of the 
dome is encircled with mosaic work to the vertex 
Avhich is perforated and admits a view into a void 
between two domes as in St, Paul's, London. This 
grand edifice was designed by Thomas Cooley, who 
only lived to complete the western wing. James 
Gandon continued and finished the work which 
occupied fourteen years, and was opened in 1800. 

The view presented (page 341), showing the en- 
tire fagade on Inn's Quay, is from the south side of 
the Liffey, the artist standing near the corner of 
Wood Quay (page 313), and Richmond Bridge. A 
part of Whitworth Bridge appears on the left, and 
the steeple beyond is that of St. Paul's Roman 
Catholic parish church on Arran Quay. A few 
paces from the church on this quay is the house 



No. 



in which Edmund Burke, " one of the 




BiythplaLC of Burke. 



greatest of the sons of men " was born on New 
Year's Day, 1 730,* it having been occupied at the time by his father, an attorney 
of distinction of the period. His statue, by Foley, is in front of Trinity College. 
To the west end rear of the Four Courts, leading from Whitworth Bridge is 
Church Street, one of the oldest thoroughfares in the city. Here you will find 
the old Danish church of St. Michan, with its fine square tower overlooking a 
reduced neighborhood of low houses. And yet, as Mr. Wheeler remarks, " it is 
not all decrepitude and want, for there are one or two good iron foundries, and 
droves of cattle are constantly pushed through the streets to a market-place 
called Smithfield." A religious house was built here in 1095, by St. Michanus, 
and on its site the present edifice, at various times, was erected. Up to 1700 it 



the Fine Arts in Great Britain and Ireland, by W^. B. Sarsfield Taylor, Curator of the Living Model Academy, etc. 
Vol. II., chap, xviii. London, 1841. 

* This is the date usually accepted. AUibone adopts 172S, as given in the last (London, 1852) edition of Burke's 
Works. A claim has been made for No. 12 as Burke's birthplace. 



36o 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



was the only church on the north side of the river. In addition to its antiquity, 
this venerable structure is deeply interesting. Within its precincts many illus- 
trious persons are at rest, among them the constitutional reformer Lucas, and 
the patriots whose lives were sacrificed to their country — Rev. William Jackson, 

Oliver Bond, the brothers Sheares, and Robert 
Emmet, whose " uninscribed tomb" may be 
seen in the churchyard near the south wall.* 
The grave of Lucas is marked by a plain 
stone, raised by an admiring constituent. Sir 
Edward Newenham, knight, which recounts 
the " incorrupt integrity, unconquered spirit, 
just judgment and glorious perseverance in 
the great cause of Liberty, Virtue, and his 
country " which distinguished the labors of 
the patriot, who died November 4th, 1771, at 
the age of fifty-six. His character and stand- 
ing are fairly indicated by the lines on this 
stone : 

" Lucas ! Hibernia's Friend, her joy and pride, 
Her powerful Bulwark, and her skillful guide, 
Firm in the Senate, steady to his Trust, 
Unmoved by fear, and obstinately just." 




St. Mlcliaiis Church — Burial-place of 
EiiDiiet. 



It is a suggestive commentary on the rela- 
tive position of England and Ireland in the 
days of Lucas and in our day, to know that, when forced to fly from Ireland he 
had only to cross the channel to find a refuge, and that even the principles 
which caused his exile from Ireland recommended him to the welcome of Eng- 
land. Of him, under such circumstances, old Sam Johnson said, " Let the man 
thus driven into exile, for having been the friend of his country, be received in 
every other place as a confessor of liberty ; and let the tools of power be taught 
in time, that they may rob, but cannot impoverish." The record on the tomb- 
stone of the betrayed member of the United Irish Directory, who appears to 



* Emmet's request in the celebrated speech before receiving sentence of death, was that his "tomb remain unin- 
scribed," until his country " takes her place among the nations of the earth." From childhood the writer, who was born, 
he might say, within the shadow of St. Michan's, has always been led to believe that Emmet was buried here ; state- 
ments, however, given in the appendix to The Sham Squire; and the Informers of lytjS, etc., by William J. Fitz-Patrick, 
1866, would indicate the locality of " the uninscribed tomb " as the old cemetery at Glasnevin, near a private door leading 
into it from the demesne of Delville. 



DUBLIN. 



361 



have been murdered in prison by connivance of the authorities, is brief : " Sacred 
to the memory of OHver Bond, who died the 6th of September, 1798, in the 37th 
year of his age. The noblest work of God's an honest man." 

The vaults beneath the edifice are among 
the marvels of the age, possessing antiseptic 
qualities of such effectiveness that a score of 
bodies interred centuries ago are preserved 
so remarkably that the form and feature of 
life is easily distinguishable. The skin is in 
most cases intact, the teeth have not fallen 
from their places, and in some instances 
the adornments and coverings still envelop 
the perfect though discolored heads and 
limbs as though moth and dust and worms 
did not exist. The peer, the patriot, and 
the poor all lie here together ; and could the 
relatives of the departed themselves come 
to life again, they could have no difficulty 
in identifying kinsmen. The wonderful ef- 
fect produced is attributed to two causes : 
first, it is said, that the graveyard was built 
on the site of an old bog forest, and every 
visitor to the Royal Irish Academy can 
satisfy himself of the wonderful preserving 
property inherent in the Irish peat soil ; 
secondly, it is believed that the vaults are 
built with Phoenician lime, which becomes so 
dry and hard that no destructive agent can 
penetrate through it. 

A visitor to these vaults in 1822 de- 

scribed the bodies of John and Henry O Conndl Monumuit, Uasiuvm 

Sheares, which are deposited there. " I had been told that they were here, and 
the moment the light of the taper fell upon the spot they occupy, I quickly recog- 
nized them by one or two circumstances that forcibly recalled the close of their 
career — the headless trunks and the remains of the coarse, unadorned penal 
shells, to which it seemed necessary to public justice that they should be con- 
signed. Henry's head was lying by his brother's side ; John's had not been com- 




362 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

pletely detached by the blow of the executioner. One of the ligaments of the 
neck still connects it with the body." Dr. R. R. Madden, the biographer of the 
United Irishmen, with reverent care, has had the bodies inclosed in coffins of 
lead and Irish oak.* To add to the attractions of this old church, its acoustic 
arrangements are excellent, and the organ has an especial value in the estimation 
of the virtuoso, for it is that on which Handel played his " Messiah " for the first 
time in public — an event that took place in the old Fishamble Street Music Hall, 
soon after its construction in 1741, and from which the honored instrument was 
subsequently removed to St. Michan's. 

Returning from this venerable structure we may cross Whitworth bridge, 
and take the line of quays on the southern side of the Liffey to Carlisle bridge ; 
or we may enter Lower Bridge Street, where, at No. 9, Oliver Bond and other 
United Irish leaders, In secret council, were seized by the government, having 
been betrayed by the infamous Thomas Reynolds. Turning to the left, through 
old Cook Street to Wine-Tavern Street, we round the steep abutments of Christ's 
Church (p. 311), and can visit several historical localities — among them Back 
Lane, where is the old Tailors' Hall, which was to the Irish Catholic reformers 
and patriots of the last century what Carpenter's Hall in Philadelphia, and 
Faneuil Hall in Boston, respectively, were to the American patriots of those 
cities in the revolutionary era ; also the little graveyard adjoining St. Werburgh's 
Church, where admission may be obtained to the vault which holds the remains 
of Lord Edward Fitzgerald. Following the Cathedral railings to Castle Street, 
we turn in at the Castle gate, and view the collection of old historical buildings 
which form "The Castle" (pp. 329-333), the seat of the vice-regal govern- 
ment ; or, going partly down Cork Hill, view the more modern and beautiful 
City Hall, the seat of the municipal government. 

The Castle of Dublin contains the town residences of the Lord Lieutenant 
and principal officers of state, and the executive offices of the government, in- 
cluding the Ordnance and Metropolitan Police. It is situated on an elevation 
near the center of the city, and consists principally of two large quadrangles, 
with attached wings, which cover within the walls ten and a half acres. The 
history of Dublin Castle would be, to a great extent, the history of the city, and 
involves politically much of the history of Ireland. In its earlier period it was a 
fortress, intended, as King John's patent to Meyler Fitz-Henry read, "as well to 
curb the city as to defend it." Within its precincts were a chapel, a jail, a mill, 

* See Sullivan's Dublin Guide-Book, a most useful and enlightening epitome of many and cumbrous volumes, indi 
eating the chief objects of public interest, ancient and modern, in the Irish Metropolis. 



DUBLIN. 363 

and other buildings for the convenience of a garrison ; and the walls were forti- 
fied with bastions and gate-towers, and nearly surrounded by a moat. It would 
appear that previous to the reign of Elizabeth the viceroys, lords deputy, or chief 
governors, had no fixed place of residence, but held court sometimes at Thomas 
Court, at the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and frequently in the Castle of 
Kilmainham. Sir Henry Sidney seems to have been the first lord deputy who 
resided in the Castle. Soon after parliaments and high courts of law were held in 
it, and so continued with slight exceptions until the restoration of Charles II., 
after which places were specially designated for the courts and parliaments. 
The Bermingham Tower was long used as a dungeon, and many Irish chiefs, 
bishops, and priests were incarcerated in it, died there, or were led out only to 
execution. Some achieved wonderful and romantic escapes from it : such as Don- 
ald Art McMurrough, in 1388 ; Hugh O'Donnell, in 1587, and, having been 
recaptured in the Dublin Mountains, again, with Henry and Art O'Neill, in 
1592 ; and young Nugent, Lord Delvin, who made his way to London and 
pleaded his case before King James I., who, struck by his ingenuous confidence, 
restored him to his estates and honors. During the wars of centuries with the 
Irish and those who became " more Irish," the spikes over the gates were rarely 
without the heads of some chief. For years the head of the great Ulster chief, 
Shane O'Neill, who was treacherously entrapped to a banquet by a government 
agent and slain in 1567, might have been seen on these battlements, and later, 
the head of Feagh McHugh O'Byrne, the Wicklow chief, was impaled here, 
and afterward sent as an assuring gift to Elizabeth. 

The Castle Chapel — of which we have given both exterior and interior views 
— is the most attractive, as it is the most modern building (opened in 18 14), 
within the walls. It is elaborately ornamented with carvings in oak ; and the 
decorations are of a rich and artistic character. Of the interior of the Castle 
apartments during seasons of festivity, descriptions, more or less full, are given 
in the writings of some novelists, especially of Lady Morgan and Charles 
Lever. N. P. Willis gave a characteristic scene also, in which his impression of 
Irish beauty may well come under the head of picturesque : " Physically, Irish 
women are probably the finest race in the world — I mean, taller, better 
limbed and chested, larger eyed, and with more luxuriant hair, and freer ac- 
tion than any other nation I have observed. The Phoenician and Spanish 
blood, which has run hundreds of years in their veins, still kindles its dark 
fire in their eyes, and with the vivacity of the northern mind and the bright color 
of the northern skin, these southern qualities mingle in most admirable and 



364 



PICTURESQ UE IRE LA ND. 



superb harmony. The idea we form of Italian and Grecian beauty is never re- 
alized in Greece and 
Italy, but we find it 
in Ireland, height- 
ened and exceeded. 
Cheeks and lips of 
the delicacy and 
bright tint of car- 
nation, with snowy 
teeth, and hair and 
eyebrows of jet, are 
what we should 
look for on the pal- 
ette of Apelles, 
could we recall the 
painter, and reani- 
mate his far-famed 
models ; and these 
varied charms, unit- 
ed, fall very com- 
monly to the share 
of the fair Milesian 
of the upper classes. 
In other lands of 
dark eyes, the rare- 
ness of a fine-grain- 
ed skin, so necessa- 
ry' to a brunette, 
makes beauty as 
rare ; but whether 
it is the damp soft- 
ness of the climate 
or the infusion of 
Saxon blood, a 
coarse skin is al- 
most never seen in 
Ireland." * 




v> 



Famous Persons and Places, by N. P. Willis, pp. 309-310. Tliis is liuly a liriUiantly suggestive idea of Irish 



DUBLIN. 



365 



The Castle contains portraits of the viceroys for nearly two hundred years — 
the Buckinghams, Westmorelands, Dorsets, Townshends, and nearly every noble 
family in England. " A study of these portraits," says the writer of a brilliant 
paper on the Castle, in 1866, " is full of profit, and in these faces we might almost 
read the story 



of the govern- 
ment of the 
country. For 
here are clever, 
and weak, and 
cunning faces ; 
open, jovial, 
and unsuspi- 
cious counte- 
nances ; the 
reckless Town- 
sliend, the free, 
debauched Rut- 
land, the diplo- 
matic Claren- 
don, the good- 
natured Eglin- 
ton, and the 
genial Car- 
lisle." 

The City 
Hall, designed 
by Thomas 
Cooley — was 
originally 
founded in 
1 769, as an Ex- 
change former- 




JIoiisc pf Lords — Old Parliainent House. 



female beauty ; but it may be remarked in passing, that English travelers, like Inglis, Hall, Thackeray, and still later, 
Sir John Forbes, have dwelt iipon the beauty of the rural classes, and without imputing the " infusion of Saxon blood," 
as forcibly as Willis dwells on that of the " fair Milesians of the upper classes." It is a subject that may command 
further attention. 



366 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



chants, but was often used for other purposes, inhumanly so during the " Ter- 
ror " of '98, when mock trials, pitch caps and triangles were applied to suspected 
patriots. It is more favorably known, as the place where O'Connell, on the 
13th of January, 1800, made his first speech against 
the Union he afterward so powerfully sought to re- 
peal. It became the property of the Corporation in 
1852. The grand hall contains some notable statues: 
Hogan's noble and colossal figure of O'Connell, which 
fulfills the adjuration of the poet Davis to the sculp- 
tor when engaged on the statue ; Chantrey's speaking 
likeness of Grattan ; Smith's vigorous form of Lucas, and 
Hogan's fine statue of Under-Secretary Drummond, a 
Scotchman, who requested to be buried in Ireland, " the 
land of his adoption." He it was who told the Irish 
landlords that " property has its duties as well as its 
rights." There is also a bronze statue of George III., 
by Van Nost, the gift of the Earl of Northumberland, 
when Viceroy. The City Hall presents to view three 
sides, two of which are richly decorated in Corinthian 
style, and from the combined advantages of its position, 
unique form, and architectural elegance adds very much 
to the approach to the upper gate of " The Castle." 

From the balustrade of the front portico a lively and 
interesting view is presented: directly opposite Parlia- 
ment Street leads to Essex (now Grattan) Bridge, which connects with Capel 
Street; while to the right Dame Street ex- 
tends to College Green — all thoroughfares 
of gayety and busy life. The last named is a 
famous plaza ; and its surroundings, not less 
than its name, recall many scenes, transac- 
tions, and aspirations of history, intellect, and 
patriotism. Here is the famous old eques- 
trian statue of William III. (p. 336), natu- 
rally looking toward the Castle ; and further 
on, that of Grattan, in the attitude of oration, appropriately raised on the parade 
ground of the Volunteers of '82, and facing those of Burke and Goldsmith in 
front of his and their Alma Mater, " Old Trinity ; " while on his left is the Old 




The Bank — Eastern Facade 
and Portico from College Gate. 




St PitinVs 



Shrine of the Bell. 



DUBLIN. 



367 



Parliament House, with which his eloquence is forever associated. The erec- 
tion of this statue, one of Foley's best works, and in this suggestive place, 
was mainly due to the energy and liberality of Alexander M. Sullivan, M.P. 
The site had been granted for the Albert Memorial, but Mr. Sullivan, showing 
that while for the prince there were many sites, for the patriot no other site was 
so fitting, created such an agitation as led the Corporation to rescind its grant. 
Subsequently Mr. Sullivan was imprisoned for " seditious " articles referring to the 
Manchester Martyrs, and on his release was presented with an address and a 
testimonial of ^300, which latter sum he at once allocated as the nucleus of a 
fund for the statue to 
Grattan, which was un- 
veiled by the patriot's 
granddaughter, Lady 
Laura Grattan, on the 
6th of July, 1876, in 
the presence of an im- 
mense demonstration 
of trades and citizens, 
presided over by Lord 
Gort. The Albert 
Memorial, by the same 
sculptor, was erected 
on the lawn of the 
Royal Dublin Society, 
with the Museum and 
the National Gallery 
on either hand. 

The University of Dublin, or "College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity," 
as already stated (p. 312), was opened in 1593. Of course it has undergone many 
improvements, since its foundation, in architectural expansion as well as in other 
respects. The three fellows — FuUerton, Hamilton, and Ussher — who used to ad- 
vise the provost — Loftus — in the Elizabethan days, have since developed into a 
Senate of seven Senior and twenty-six Junior Fellows, all of whom, unlike their 
colleagues at Oxford and Cambridge, are allowed to take unto themselves wives, 
and in order that they may support their wives in comfort and dignity, are per- 
mitted to hold their Fellowship till they die. There are thirty-one Professorships, 
including chairs for oratory, music, and the development of the Irish language. 




St. Stephen's Green — North Side. 



368 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



As it was founded on a plundered monastery, it was, after some early financial 
trials, sustained by confiscations. For two centuries Catholics were debarred of 
its benefits ; and, as if to mark the era of dawning light, almost the very first youth 
who availed himself of the partial removal of the ban against his creed, and 

entered Trinity Col- 
lege, in 1 793, arose to 
be the representative 
lyrist of the Land of 
Song. It was Thomas 
Moore, whose scholar- 
ship, though denied 
even honorary rewards 
in college, undoubted- 
ly developed resources 
which contributed to 
his world-wide renown. 
Slight as was the con- 
cession to growing in- 
telligence which per- 
mitted Catholics to ob- 
tain a certain amount of 
education in the "Na- 
tional University" of 
Catholic Ireland, it is 
deemed creditable to its 
spirit that Trinity Col- 
lege took this step long 
before either of the 
English Universities 
made up their minds 
to be equally liberal. 
Further reforms f o 1- 
lowed, until, after the 




Grafton Slrect—Banl: on left- 



disestablishment of the Anglican Church in Ireland, Trinity cast off the remnants 
of its exclusively Protestant statutes, and threw open the whole institution, its 
fellowships and professorships, its honors and emoluments, to all, irrespective 
of creed. Although intended to be the intellectual garrison and training school 



DUBLIN. 



369 



of the English interest in Ireland, its roll of students contains the names of some 
of the most illustrious patriots and martyrs of the national cause, from Swift, 
Berkeley, and Molyneux, to the present day. The great lights of the Irish Par- 
liament, Flood, Grattan, Curran, Hussey Burgh, Plunket, Speaker Foster, and 
others ; the most historic martyrs of '98, Fitzgerald, Wolfe Tone, the Sheares, 
and Emmet ; among the ablest of the 
" Young Ireland" and '48 movement, 
Thomas Davis, John Mitchel, T. 
Devin Reilly, John Martin, John B. 
Dillon ; of those who connected 
'48 with the Fenian movement, John 
O'Mahony ; the founder of the Home 
Rule League, Isaac Butt, were all 
students of Trinity. Irrespective of 
these, a long list might be made of 
Trinity men who have been pre- 
ertiinent in intellectual activity and 
achievement in separate spheres, as 
Southerne, Burke, Goldsmith, Lord 
Macartney, Malone, Maginn, Anster, 
Todd, and Lever. To this University 
belongs the honor of having first 
scholastically recognized the merits of 
Samuel Johnson, and conferred upon 
him the degree of doctor. 

The principal exterior front of 
the University buildings is a struc- 
ture of the Corinthian order, 308 feet 
in length, four stories in height, ter- 
minating with two handsome pavil- 
ions, ornamented with coupled pilas- 
ters, and elevated above the main 
building by an attic surmounted by a balustrade. Over the arch of the principal 
entrance is a pediment supported by four tall Corinthian columns; and in the 
court-yard, at either side, the statues of Burke and Goldsmith. The effect of this, 
with the old Senate House, which is at right angles to it, gives to the open plaza 
an appearance jaerhaps not to be rivaled by any other of the beautiful views m 
24 




Albert Memorial. 



370 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Dublin. Within the college boundaries are four quadrangles which extend back- 
ward for more than a quarter of a mile. All of these contain lofty stone resi- 
dences. Behind these again, extending another quarter of a mile, is the College 
Park, of thirteen and one-half acres, wherein is held the famous Annual Athletic 
Meeting. In the center of the two front quadrangles is a beautiful campanile, 
the bells of which correspond in their boom with those of St. Paul's, London. 
This structure is ornamented by statues of Divinity, Medicine, Law, and Science, 
and cost _;^ii,ooo. When the excavations were being made for its erection, 
some stone coffins and part of the old priory were discovered. The human 
remains were reinterred beneath the cloisters in the present chapel, where also 
may be seen the coffins of nearly all the provosts. 

The various University halls and museums contain monuments, portraits, and 
archseological remains of the deepest interest. The Library is esteemed one of 
the noblest apartments of the kind in Europe. Among its many MSS. and illu- 
r- - „^gfea i minated treasures are the Book of 

Kells,'the Book of Dimna, the Book 
of Armagh, the Liber Hymnorum, arid 
other ancient Gaelic manuscripts. 

Attention has been already di- 
rected to the history and sittings of 
the Irish Parliament in Dublin, from 
the return of Charles II. to its ex- 
tinction in 1800. It only remains in 
this connection to echo the opinion 
of all writers on the beauty of the 
structure which is associated with so many thrilling scenes and memories of the 
past, and so many hopes for the future in the aspirations of the Irish race all 
over the world. The Old Parliament House — now the Bank of Ireland — in Col- 
lege Green, "is decidedly the noblest specimen of architecture which the metropo- 
lis can boast ; indeed, it is scarcely saying too much to assert that it is unequaled 
in grandeur of design, simplicity of arrangement, and majesty of effect by any pub- 
lic building in the empire." In 1794, James Malton, the artist, thought it "no 
hyperbole to say, that this edifice, in the entire. Is the grandest, most convenient, 
and most extensive of the kind in Europe." It is built entirely of Portland stone, 
is remarkable for its rigidly simple, pure, and classic style ; and derives its all-per- 
vading potent effect from the expression of simplicity without meretricious embel- 
lishment. Its beauty is derived, says the artist quoted, " from a simple impulse of 




Bloody Bridge. 



DUBLIN. 



371 



fine art : and is one of the few instances of form only expressing true symmetry." 
The principal front is formed by a noble Ionic colonnade, raised on a flight of steps, 
and ranged round three sides of a spacious quadrangular recess. The colonnade 
supports an entablature and cornice of the same order, surmounted by an attic. 
In the center of the recess a fine portico of four Ionic columns projects, sustain- 
ing a tympanum with the royal arms, while the apex is adorned with a colossal 
statue — Hibernia — with Fidelity on the western and Commerce on the eastern 
points. Circular screen walls behind columns connect the central pile with the 
western and eastern fronts. The latter was added for more convenient entrance 
to the House of Peers, but is of the Corinthian order, an incongruity which is 
explained by a witticism of the architect, Gandon. While the workmen were 
placing the capitals, he overheard a looker-on, who noticed the difference, 
say, "What order is that?" and promptly replied, "A substantial order — the 
order of the House of Lords." Over the east portico are statues of Fortitude, 
Justice, and Liberty. The original architect. of the noble 
edifice seems to be unknown. ' It was executed under 
the direction of Sir Edward Lovett Pearce, surveyor- 
general of Ireland, whose name is on all the ofificial 
plans ; and completed by Arthur Dobbs, who succeeded 
to that office. It was said at the time that Pearce ob- 
tained the design from Richard Castle or Castelli, the 
architect of the Royal Dublin Society (Leinster) House; 
but the statement is doubted. The building came into 
possession of the Bank of Ireland in 1802, when the 
House of Commons was dismantled for its new pur- 
poses. The House of Lords has undergone little 
change. It is a noble apartment. In the recess oc- 
cupied by the throne is a statue of George III., and on the mahogany walls are 
hung two famous pieces of tapestry, the work of Thomas Baillie, of Dublin, de- 
picting the battle of the Boyne and the defense of Londonderry. Various arti- 
cles of furniture from both of the legislative chambers have been distributed 
away from the places they once adorned. The chair of the Speaker of the 
House of Lords is now in the Royal Irish Academy, Dawson Street, and that of 
the House of Commons is possessed by the Royal Dublin Society. The mag- 
nificent chandelier of the House of Commons now hangs from the ceiling of the 
Examination Hall in Trinity College. The government demanded the mace 
from Speaker Foster, but the latter declined to yield it, saying, that until the 




^tatuc of Fail oj Ca?liik 




Snckvillc Street. 



Cciicnl P -t Office. 
IRD'S-EVE VIEW OF DUBLIN FROM 
Dublin Mountains in 




THE SUMMIT OF NELSON'S PILLAR, 
the Southern Distance. 



374 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



body that intrusted it to his keeping demanded it, he would preserve it for them. 
It is now in possession of his grandson, Lord Massareene. 

From this central point a number of interesting places, which are connected 
with illustrious names and historical acts, are of easy access ; Church Lane and 
Trinity Street are small thoroughfares off College Green. From the former, at 
No. 4, The Press, the great national organ in '98, was issued. In its columns, 
with other of Drennan's poems, originally appeared " When Erin first rose," in 
which the world-famous epithet " Emerald Isle" is first applied to Ireland. In 
the latter, at adjoining offices, were issued the United Irishman (No. 12), The 
Irish Tribune (No. 11), and The Irish Felon, \n\2>. A short distance from 
the bank is D'Olier Street, where, at No. 4, was issued, for years before '48, The 

Nation, the 
greatest of 
Irish jour- 
nals. Turn- 
ing our steps 
up Grafton 
Street, we 
pass, at the 
corner of 
J ohnson 's 
Court, the 
house where 
youngBrins- 
ley Sheri- 
d a n and 
Tom Moore 

went to school to the facile Samuel Whyte, and soon reach St. Stephen's Green. 
There are several fine squares, surrounded by substantial and excellent resi- 
dences and other buildings, which are embellishments to the Irish Metropolis. 
The principal are Merrion, Fitzwilliam, Rutland, and Mountjoy Squares. Of 
these any city might be proud ; but St. Stephen's Green is still more attractive, 
and is the largest city square in Europe. The inclosure, which was formerly a 
place of execution, occupies some eighteen acres suitably laid out and planted. 
In the center there is an equestrian statue of George II., by Van Nost, and on 
the north side a statue of the Earl of Eglinton, twice viceroy. Surrounding the 
Green on either side are several eminent educational, scientific, religious, and 




View in Phwnix Park. 



DUBLIN. 



375 



charitable institutions, chief of which are the Catholic University, the Royal 
College of Surgeons, the elegant pediment of which is surrounded by statues of 
^sculapius, Minerva, and Hygieia ; the Royal College of Science, the Wes- 
leyan Centenary Chapel, St. Vincent's Hospital, in charge of the Sisters of 
Charity, and a Unitarian chapel. Among these features may be mentioned the 
town residence of Sir Arthur Guinness, by whose liberality the Green has been 
decorated and opened to the public, the Shelburne Hotel, and the houses of the 
Dublin University Club, the Hibernian United Service Club, and the St. Ste- 
phen's Green Club ; while the south-east corner immediately leads to the Exhibi- 
tion Palace, a beautiful structure, adapted for all varieties of public entertainment, 
instruction, and recreation. But a short distance from the west side, turning off 
by the College of Surgeons, is the house, at the corner of Aungier and Longford 
Streets, in which Thomas 
Moore was born and reared. 
From the north-east side 
we can reach Merrion Street, 
where is, at No. 24, Morn- 
ington House (p. 335), for- 
merly the Dublin residence 
of Wellington's father, at 
present the office of the 
Irish Church Temporalities 
Commission. In the opinion 
of Sir Bernard Burke, C.B., the distinguished Ulster king-of-arms, Wellington 
was born in this house, and we refer to his conclusion here as a matter of justice, 
as in the article on Meath we expressed a different opinion, chiefly based on 
the researches of Dr. O'Donovan, given in Wilde's Boyne and Blackwater. 

A few steps brings us to the National Gallery, which contains a collection 
which may fairly claim a place among European galleries of the second rank, 
while it contains some pictures of the Italian, Dutch, Flemish, and Spanish 
schools which might worthily find a place in those of the first. In the 
modern department prominence is naturally given to such native artists as 
Maclise, Danby, O'Connor, Roberts, and others ; but there are also fine 
pictures by Wilkie, Leslie, and some continental artists. The National Portrait 
Gallery is fortunate in the high standard of merit that has been preserved in the 
pictures, independent of the interest of their subjects. Reynolds, Gainsborough, 
Hogarth, Lawrence, are worthily represented. One of the most attractive 




Tunnel tinder Phanix Park. 



376 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



works is a delicately finished portrait of Lady Morgan, author of the famous 
lyrics, " Savourneen Deelish," and " Kate Kearney," and of many national novels. 
The gallery is free to the public, save on Fridays and Saturdays, which are re- 
served for art students. Here, on the lawn, are the Albert Memorial, the 
statue to Dargan, and a bust of Balfe, by Farrell. 

Back of Leinster Lawn is the Royal Dublin Society, which " has the undoubted 
merit of being the father of all similar societies now existing in Europe." It was 
founded in 1731, for the promotion of husbandry, manufactures, and other useful 
arts and sciences. In addition to regular lectures by eminent professors, and 
exhibitions in furtherance of these purposes, it maintains free schools of art, 
embracing figure, landscape and ornament, architecture and sculpture. Among 
its most famous students were James Barry, Henry Tresham, Sir Martin Archer 



r-^ 




VtLt- Regal Lotljc, PhiTHix 1 ark 

Shee, President of the Royal Academy, London ; Martin Cregan, President of 
the Royal Hibernian Academy, the painters ; and Behnes, Foley, and Farrell, 
the sculptors. In the hall is a colossal statue of George IV., in the robes of 
the order of St. Patrick, a work of great merit, by Behnes ; and two groups — ■ 
Adam and Eve lamenting over the body of Abel, by Gallagher, and Theseus 
and Hippodamia by Panormo — early works of striking effect by pupils of the 
institution. The palatial building which fronts on Kildare Street was formerly 
the residence of the Duke of Leinster, and otherwise notably historical for the 
escape of Lord Edward Fitzgerald from the town-major and his ofificers by means 
of a spiral staircase. The House of the Royal Hibernian Academy, though not 
pretentious, is in good taste. It was the gift of its first president, Francis John- 
ston, architect. The exhibitions are, like those of London and New York, 
events of considerable interest. Among- the most eminent exhibitors from time 



DUBLIN. 



177 



to time have been Shee, Maclise, Danby, Mulready, MacDowell, Petrie, Turner, 
Burton, Boddington, Comerford, Mulrenin, Lover, Rothwell, Catterson Smith, 
Stanfield, and others. 

On the other side of Abbey Street is Metropolitan Hall, formerly the Music 
Hall, a noted place of meeting in '48, and assured an historical remembrance 
from the fact that many of Meagher's thrillingly earnest and vigorous speeches 








Clondalkin, Southern Approach. 

were delivered there. Around the corner, in Marlborough Street, is the Church 
of the Conception, the Roman Catholic Pro-Cathedral of Dublin. It is a massive 
and beautiful edifice in the Greek style, and was the first grand structure erected 
by the Catholics after the comparative removal of the penal laws. It was designed 
by John Sweetman, an exile of '98, who furnished a complete model, and secretly 
visited Ireland after its completion to see it. From the purchase of the site to 



378 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

the dedication was some twenty-two years, owing to want of means. The inte- 
rior consists of a lengthened nave and side aisles, divided by stately rows of mass- 
ive Doric columns supporting an architrave and entablature, and an arched ceiling 
surmounted by a lofty dome. The high altar is by Turnerrelli, and in the con- 
cave apse over it is an original and highly admired bas-relief — the figures being 
life size — of the Ascension, by John Smith. 

At a short distance from the Royal Dublin Society — passing through Moles- 
worth Street — is the Royal Irish Academy, a visit to which is of unsurpassed in- 
terest to the student and archaeologist, as it contains the finest collection of 
Celtic antiquities in the world, a description of which is indicated in Sir William 
Wilde's catalogue, but might occupy volumes. Here are to be found the treasured 
relics of Irish civilization in flint and bronze weapons, exquisite gold ornaments, 
and wonderfully written and illuminated manuscripts, in the days when Ireland 

was, in the words of Dr. Johnson, 
"the School of the West, the quiet 
habitation of sanctity and literature." 
Among the precious treasures of the 
" strong room " are the Tara brooch, 
the cross of Cong, and St. Patrick's 
bell and its shrine. Of the cross we 
shall speak hereafter. The bell is 
J. r; J ,, ■ T^ ^ .7 A7 /7 quite plain and battered ; the shrine, 

Distant View of Clondalkm Tower from the North. 1 r 

a blaze of gold and precious stones, 
bears date of the eleventh century, and an inscription on it traces the antiquity 
and ownership of the bell itself, which leaves no doubt on the mind of the learned 
O'Curry that it is " the Finn Faidheach, or ' sweet sounding,' that was once used 
by the saint himself." Among other treasures, ancient and modern, are the auto- 
graph originals of The Annals of the Fotir Masters, and the library and little 
harp of Thomas Moore, presented by the widow of the poet. At either side of 
the academy are the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor, 
which contains some good historical portraits; and -St. Anne's Church, in a 
vault of which lie the remains of the poetess Felicia Hemans. 

From these repositories and reminders of the past we seek the open air again 
with a sense of refreshment. Taking our way westward by the southern quays, 
we pass Bloody Bridge and over King's Bridge to the Phoenix Park, within the 
entrance to which is a bronze statue of Lord Carlisle. This magnificent recrea- 
tion ground of Dubliners contains over 1,752 acres. The drive straight through, 




DUBLIN. 



379 



from the Dublin gate to Castleknock gate, is two miles and thirty perches in 
length. Although there is a column erected by Lord Chesterfield, with a phoenix 
■on it illustrating the present name, the title is a corruption of Fioun-uisge (pro- 
nounced finniske), fair or clear water, a chalybeate spring in a glen near the 
entrance to the Vice-regal Lodge, the country-seat of the Lord Lieutenant. A 
prominent object in the park is the Wellington Testimonial, a huge obelisk 
with the victories of the " Iron Duke" inscribed on its sides, and, on the panels 
of the base, bronze bas-reliefs of Seringapatam, by Kirke, Waterloo, by Farrell, 
and the passing of the Emancipation Act, by Hogan. From this point, as from 
others, delightful views of the city and southern district of the county, extending 
to the Dublin Mountains, can be had. Among the striking objects of interest in 
view are Sarah 

Bridge, a single - -: e, 

span of 104 feet _-_%-_ _ - ^_ 

across the Liffey, - " ~ 5«--- 

Island Bridge Bar- 
racks, the Royal 
Hospital of Kil- 
mainham, where old 
officers and soldiers 
are maintained,* 
the terminus of the 
Great Southern 
and Western Rail- 
way. Within the park are the Zoological Gardens, the People's Garden, the 
Hibernian School for maintaining and apprenticing the orphans of soldiers in 
Ireland, and the residences of the Lord Lieutenant and Chief Secretary. The 
park is full of delightful scenes and groves almost in a state of nature. 

If time will permit, the visitor to Dublin City should by all means devote a 
few days to the suburbs, which afford a variety of charming scenes. Along the 
Liffey by Chapelizod, the Strawberry Beds, Woodlawn, to Lucan and Leixlip ; 
and along the Dodder by Donnybrook, Milltown, Templeogue — the residence of 
Charles Lever — Fir House, and Bohernabreena Bridge into the Dublin Moun- 
tains, the artistic tourist will find much to delight his perceptions, and solace an 




Skerry Islands. 



* This interesting edifice contains twenty-two full-length portraits confined to royalty and chief governors of Ireland 
— including Charles II., William III., Queens Mary and Anne ; James, Duke of Ormond, the Dukes of Dorset and 
Devonshire ; Earls of Ossory, Arran, Galway, Berkeley, and Rochester ; Sir Richard Cox, and others. 



38o 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



expedition on foot or an " outside car." From Templeogue he can proceed 
to Tallaght, a venerable place of much antiquarian interest, and to the village 
of Clondalkin, where is a very fine specimen of an ancient round tower. Nor 
should a visit be omitted to the modern round tower (p. 361), raised as a monu- 
ment to O'Connell in Glasnevin Cemetery, where also repose a number of those 
who are honored as poets, artists, archeeologists, orators, and patriots, among 
them Curran, Clarence Mangan, Hogan, O'Donovan, O'Curry, Dillon, Anne 
Devlin, the young patriot-poet Casey, McManus, and John O'Mahony. 

For the yachtsman who takes additional delight in having a sketch-book with 




Dublin Bay^ from Dalkcy over Kingstown. 

him, the coast from Skerries to Dalkey Island and Bray Head presents a great 
variety of scenery, and perhaps no more satisfying view could remain on the 
mind's eye than that which fills the vision as, standing on the rocks of Dalkey 
Hill, or by the obelisk on Killiney, it embraces the whole Bay of Dublin, the 
entrance to the city defined by the north wall, beyond it the neck of land con- 
necting Howth with the historic shore of Clontarf, and beyond this again the 
coast line fading northward to Portmarnock and Rush. A more beautiful 
obelisk than that at Killiney is in Newtown Park, adjacent to Kingstown, which 
was built by Sir Pigot Piers in i 742, to relieve distress in the vicinity. 



MAYO 







Cong' jlbbey. 



The County of Mayo— which is of immense extent, embracing 1,363,882 
acres — presents a great variety of surface, from wild, bleak, and picturesquely 
rugged mountains to rich and loamy lowlands ; heath-covered swelling hills to 
warm and fertile champaign prospects ; and strange conformations of rock- 



382 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




strewn flats which extend for miles in the country bordering Loughs Mask and 
Carra, and are found, in some instances, to be deeply fissured. From Kilcum- 
min Head, on the extreme north-east point of the county, to the Killeries on the 

south-west ; and from Erris, on the Atlan- 
tic, to Ballaghadereen, near its eastern 
border, there are remarkable ranges and 
groups of mountains. Traveling south 
from Kilcummin the land swells by degrees 
into heath-crowned hills, the sides and val- 
leys of which are green and fertile. Grad- 
ually these hills change their character into 
the bleak and barren range of mountains 
which stretches in a continuous and some- 
what semicircular tract, tending southward, 
sixty miles long and seven miles broad, 
from Erris to the Ox Mountains in Sligo. 
With the steep and grand Mount Nephin, 
2,646 feet high, in the center, the ranges 
extend westward to Achill and south to 
Ballyhaunis, dividing the county into two 
parts. Another range in the north extends from Dunfeeny to Lough Carraw- 
more, while the southern tract between the Galway border and Clew Bay is a 
congeries of mountains, the most con- 
spicuous of which are Croagh Patrick, 
2,530 feet high, on the south of the 
bay, and the lofty Muilrea, 2,700 
feet high, on the north side of the Kil- 
leries. The bays and islands are 
among the largest and grandest, in a 
pictorial sense, in Ireland. 

The northern coast is peculiarly bold 
and wild, presenting almost along its 
whole length a perpendicular wall of 
rocky cliffs, averaging four hundred 

r„ ,. • 1 • 1 , • J. 4.U Chancel Window, Cons; Abbey. 

leet m height, in some parts the sur- . .-, ^ 

face at top overhanging the sea. In many places the edge of the cliff is the 

highest point of the land, so that the water which is shed from the surface within 



Gateway, Cong Abbey 




MAYO. 



383 



twenty yards from the brow flows southerly away from the sea. Along this high, 
bold coast to the west, as far as the Stags of Broadhaven, are caverns extending 
a great distance under the surface, and vaulted overhead with immense flag- 
stones. One of the most remarkable of these, nearly opposite the Stags, near 
Dunkechan, extends several hundred yards under the land, is roofed with stone, 
and wide enough to admit several boats in calm weather to enter abreast. There 
are several lakes, some of considerable extent, in Mayo, such as Lough Conn, 
Lough Mask, Lough Cullen, Lough Carra, and many others. A portion of 
Lough Corrib — already noticed in the article on Galway — also belongs to this 
county. A narrow isthmus of high land 
separates it from Lough Mask, the waters 
of which are thirty-six feet above the 
summer level of Lough Corrib. Hence 
the former pours the whole of its redun- 
dant waters into the latter through numer- 
ous subterraneous caverns beneath the 
dividing isthmus ; and the water emerges 
from these caverns, which are the greatest 
natural curiosities of the county, in numer- 
ous fountains near the village of Cong, 
which, independently of these phenomena, 
is a place of high interest. There are, 
says Wilde, three descriptions of caves in 
this locality : natural, artificial, and mixed. 
The first is magnificently represented by 
the great chasm in the limestone rock, 
about a mile to the west of Cong, and to the south-west of Aughalard Castle ; 
and which, from the number of pigeons and woodquests that used to flock into it, 
is popularly known as the Pigeon Hole. This has been alluded to more fully 

(p- 234)- 

Cong is usually visited on the Lough Corrib route by the Connemara tourist, 
but as it is not in Galway, we deferred noticing its historical interest until we 
took up the County of Mayo. Its name is derived from cunga, a neck, indicat- 
ing its situation upon the isthmus between the loughs alluded to. It is an 
island, formed by a number of surrounding streams ; for, as Wilde says, there is 
water everywhere: gliding by in the broad river ; gushing from the surrounding 
rocks ; boiling up in vast pools that supply several mills ; oozing through the 




Tke Pigeon Hole. 



384 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



crevices of stones ; rising in the interior of caverns ; appearing and disappearing 
wherever its wayward nature wills ; passing in and out everywhere except where 
man tried to turn it into the monster dry canal. The historical village occupies 
a small hill, and is approached by four bridges. 

Cong is of ancient interest. It does not appear from history or tradition 
that St. Patrick visited Cong ; but it is said that St. Fechin of Fore was here, 
the first abbot of an abbey founded by an Irish king, in a.d. 624. Cong was 
originally a bishopric, one of the five sees of Connaught, regulated by synod in 

loio. Early in the twelfth century the 
famous abbey of Cong was erected for 
canons regular of the Augustinians ; in 
whose keeping were placed the great 
family deeds and records of the west- 
country chieftains and proprietors. In 
the reign of Elizabeth the property of 
this abbey was granted to Trinity Col- 
lege, Dublin. " The Augustinian monks 
have departed," says Wilde; "the bells 
have tolled their last peal ; the altar 
lights are extinguished ; a few valuables, 
snatched in haste, have been preserved, 
and Cong is a ruin, whence every sculp- 
tured stone that could be removed was 
built into the hovels around — and which 
was barely held together by the fostering 
arms of the luxuriant ivy, until lately 
cleared of rubbish, and its muUioned 
windows and decorated doorways care- 
fully restored " by the cultivated respect 
of Sir Benjamin L. Guinness. 
We enter the abbey by a very beautiful doorway, and within we find it, 140 
feet long, entirely paved with tombstones ; facing us is the east window with 
its three narrow lights, and in each side wall of the chancel is a slender window 
looking north and south. The chancel walls are perfect, but the northern wall of 
the nave no longer exists. Under the chancel window the guides and village 
people maintain that Roderick O'Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, was buried, 
when, after fifteen years' retirement within this abbey, he died in 1198. The 




The Cross of Cong. 



MAYO. 



38s 



Donegal annals, however, distinctly state that " Ruodri Ua Concobair, King 
of Connaught and of all Ireland, both the Irish and English, died among the can- 
ons at Cong, after exemplary penance, victorious over the world and the devil. His 
body was conveyed to Clonmacnois, and interred on the north side of the altar." 
" Standing between the river and the abbey, the picture naturally rises before 
us of the aged monarch, broken down by the calamities which his country was 
suffering from a foreign invasion which he was no longer able to resist — but 
still more so by the opposition and ingratitude of his own children and relatives 
— passing up the river with his retinue, landing here in. 11 83, and received by 




TAe KillcrUs. Mayo. 

the lord abbot and his canons and friars ; and then taking leave of his faithful 
adherents at the water's edge, being conducted to the abbey which it is said his 
munificence had endowed. There as a recluse, untrammelled by the weight of 
state affairs, and possibly unaffected by the quarrels of his chieftains and kins- 
folk, the Last Monarch of Ireland, abdicating his authority, because the country 
no longer supported him, died."* The rocks, caverns, and dark-flowing streams 
of Cong, were, as Otway suggests, a fit place to sigh away a life which no longer 



* Wilde's Loiigk Corrib, which see, for many antiquarian notes of this locality. 



?S6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND 



could serve his country. Though the Connaught abbeys suffered less than 
others from the original suppressors, the " fond superstition " that turned the 
interiors into places of sepulture, defaced and destroyed what the avarice of 
Henry's courtiers and the curse of Cromwell had spared. 

The tomb pointed out as that of the king, is perhaps of his son, Maurice the 
Canon, "the most illustrious of the Irish for learning, psalm-singing and poetical 
compositions," who died in 1224, and was interred here. Roderick's daughters, 
Nuala and Finola, were interred at Cong ; and there are many tombs of chiefs, 
warriors, and ecclesiastics, and especially of the 
abbots, down to James Lynch, whose tomb is dated 
1703 ; and even later, for the Rev Patrick 
Prendergast, a fine, white-haired, venerable person 
" a good specimen," says Wilde, " of the St 
Omer's priest," who was always styled ' The 
Lord Abbot," died in 1829, at the age of 88 and 
was entombed In the abbey. Several of the ec- 
clesiastical tomb-flags are decorated 
with crosses, fleur-de-lis, chalices, 
and ornate croziers. Prendergast 
was the last abbot, and had in a 
three-cornered cupboard, in his little 
sitting-room, at Abbotstown, the 
cross of Cong, the shrine of St. 
Patrick's tooth, and the piece of 
discolored 
linen said to 
have been 

dipped in the ^'^ ^h^ Mountains of Mayo. 

blood of Charles L when executed at Whitehall, and believed to possess the 
power of curing the king's evil. Hundreds came to be touched with it, and, as 
Wilde, who as a boy knew the abbot, says, in all probability this was the latest 
instance in which this rite was exercised in the British Isles. The Fiachal 
Phadrig is a shrine, of a horse-shoe or reticule shape, 1 1 li inches in length and 9 
inches wide, constructed, it is said, to hold a tooth of St. Patrick, which the great 
Missionary, on a visitation to Northern Connaught, gave to Bishop Bronius when 
he founded the church of Cassel-Irra. It Is highly decorated with raised figures 
and engraving, gold and silver filagree work, and with crystals, stones, and amber. 



^|r'i 




MA YO. 



387 



The Cross of Cong, the gem of the Royal Irish Academy, where it now is, 
affords, as Dr. Petrie said, most striking evidence of the advanced position of Irish 
art and artificers previous to the arrival of the English. It was made by natives 
in Roscommon, about the year 11 23, in the reign of Turlough O'Conor, father 
'of Roderick. It is justly esteemed as undoubtedly one of the finest specimens of 
metal work, enamel, niello, and jewelry of its age in the western world. It is 
30 inches high, and the arms 19 inches across. It consists of an oaken cross, 
covered with plates of bronze and silver, heavily washed in many places with 
gold. In the front center, upon a raised boss, decorated with niello, there 
is a large polished crystal of quartz, in fact a double-convex lens, one surface 
beingmuch more 
convex than the -'~^^ 

t h e r, u n d er "i- " ^ ^ " " 
which was origi- _ -^ ^ - " ~^ sr- s 
nally placed the ^^.^^^ 
piece of the True ^ 
Cross sent by 

the Pope to 
Turlough in 

1 I 2 3. This 
central crystal 
i s surrounded 
by a wonderfully 
beautiful golden 
filagree, and all 
the rest of the 
cross, front and Approach to Delphi. 

back, is a mass of ornament of the intertwined pattern or strap work, with grotesque 
animals, which is specially characteristic of Irish ornamentation in stone, metal, 
vellum, or vitreous composition ; and is richly gilt, in a manner not known, it is 
said, to modern art. Both the tracery and the inscribed edging, which is a silver 
band, are separated from the wooden frame by plates of copper or bronze. The 
front is divided by silver insertions into no fewer than fifty panels ; and the bands 
and edges are decorated with forty-three studs or knobs of parti-colored enamel 
of various patterns, and which, being all of a deep shade, set off the crystal with 
striking effect. On the silver side-bands are a series of Latin and Irish in- 
scriptions, in the Irish character, and the letters 2iX^ punched into the silver by 




388 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

dyes or types, and so deeply, that Wilde says "the metal plates beneath are in- 
dented with almost equal sharpness, which enables us to read plainly even when 
the external plate had been injured." The Latin inscription which is in duplicate 
on both sides of the lower portion runs, Hac crtice crux tegihir qua passtis 
conditor orbis. " In this Cross is preserved (or covered) the Cross on which the 
Founder of the world suffered." The other inscriptions are in Irish, and respec- 
tively ask a prayer for the four persons concerned in its creation : Muireadach 
O'Duffy, Archbishop of Connaught, for whose use it was intended ; King Turlough, 
at whose desire and expense it was executed ; Daniel O'Duffy, the bishop who 
superintended its progress, and last, not least, Maclisa O'Echan, the artist who exe- 
cuted it. " Of the last-mentioned," says Petrie, " and now most interesting of those 
four men, no other record can be found ; no monument is left to tell of his former 
greatness, save the exquisite work that has stood for more than seven hundred 
years, bearing witness of the marvelous power and delicate skill of the artist." 

Sir Bernard Burke, in his " Visitation" to the seats and arms of the nobility and 
gentry, speaking of Cong and the vicinity, says : " Whether you consider its un- 
bounded fertility, the varied beauties of its surface, or the historical events which 
invest every plain and every mountain with an interest peculiarly its own, it 
stands forth to the lover of the wild and beautiful, to the antiquarian and the 
geologist, as unsurpassed by any portion of the British Empire. And we do 
not hesitate to insist that in this island, so favored, the ancient town and neigh- 
borhood of Cong are pre-eminent ; in each of the particulars above alluded to, this 
portion of the counties of Galway and Mayo is unrivaled in its peculiarities. It 
presents a varied surface of contradictory elements — streams of barrenness and 
fertility, exquisite beauty and wild desolation, green valleys and rocky plains, 
lakes and rivers and huge mountains, are so thrown together in wild confusion, 
that it would almost seem as if nature had wandered here in one of her sportive 
moods, producing on every side such a marvelous contrast and variety." In the 
loveliest part of the district, and reached easily from the abbey grounds, is Ash- 
ford, the demesne of Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, which, formerly in the posses- 
sion of Lord Oranmore, occupies one of the most striking and beautiful sites 
imaginable. Situated on the right bank of the river, which, flowing past the 
ruins of Cong, is adorned in its short course with all that can constitute the in- 
teresting and the picturesque, the mansion was built about the beginning of 
the eighteenth century, in the French chateau style, but not many years ago was 
a dilapidated fabric with neglected surroundings. It presents now a very dif- 
ferent aspect under the taste and wealth of the new proprietor; and the river, 



MAYO. 



389 





Over Delphi Lodge. 

the lake, the deep and solemn woods that environ it, the extreme fertility of the 
demesne — encircled as it were by a framework of bare rocks and interminable 
waters — constitute, as Sir Bernard Burke says, a species of oasis in the wild 



390 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

district, at once lovely, striking and peculiar. Within the demesne, and near a 
handsome tower of recent construction, is a notable artificial cave of the Firbolg or 
Tuatha de Danann period, called Lisheen-ard — " the small fort of the height." * 
It is sunk within an ancient circular rath, now surrounded with aged hazels. 

The neighborhood of Cong, on all sides, presents a great number of wayside 
monuments, crosses, pillar-stones, and tumuli erected by funeral attendants, the 
people of the district being evidently influenced in a special degree to honor the 
memory of the dead, by the example given in the monumental cairns and stone 
circles of two thousand years ago that abound in this vicinity. 

The tourist can visit the chief points of interest in the County Mayo from 
Cong by passing westward over the boundary line into Galway, and thence 
northwestward by Leenane to the Killeries, crossing which he will be in Mayo 
again in the splendidly picturesque neighborhood of Delphi and Muilrea ; or by 
railway or post road he can proceed directly northward from Leenane to West- 
port. If desirous of visiting the places of historical or antiquarian interest on 
the eastern or interior side of the county, facilities are at his command' which will 
take him from Cong to Castlebar, and thence by Lough Cullin, over the pontoon 
bridge between this lake and the grander Lough Conn, and onward by way of 
Foxford to Ballina, to the beautifully situated ruins of Moyne Abbey, on the 
River Moy, and Killala. The same points on the east can be reached by tak- 
ing the road from Castlebar, which leads under the brow of the great Mount 
Nephin, on the west of Lough Conn to Crossmolina, whence the road eastward 
takes us to Ballina. From Ballina the whole northern section may be traversed 
by carriage road, or directly across by rail through the mountains to Belmullet 
by Lough Carra on the left. What might be termed the middle section, border- 

* This cave measures 27 feet from the eastern entrance to its turn to the south, which latter portion is 24 feet long. 
The average height is 6i feet, and it is roofed with immense flag-stones, supported on projecting corbels. ... By 
fancying a trench sunk in the ground 10 or 12 feet deep, and from 12 to 14 feet wide, and about 30 or 40 feet long, either 
in a straight line or turning at an angle midway, probably to avoid an obstruction — the sides lined with walls 2 feet 
thick, of moderate sized stones, put firmly together without cement and not in courses, and the roof formed of enormous 
flags, many of them eight and nine feet long, four or five wide or upwards, of a foot thick, laid on top — we have a good 
general idea of a Mayo Firbolg or Tuatha de Danann Cave of two thousand years old. The flag-roofing is now about 
two feet under the sod. At the distant end the cave widens often into a large oval chamber, having sometimes a small 
aperture, possibly for air or light, or to let out smoke. They were all entered by square apertures in the roof, as when- 
ever the cave is perfect the ends are built up. This trap-door may have been covered with a flag-stone in case of emer- 
gency. . . . Artificial caves abound all over the plain of Moytura, from Knockmagh to Benlevi. Probably they 
were all originally within forts, and served as places of protection and security for women and children and the wounded 
and defenseless, or to stow away valuables in case of attack. They may, also, have been used as sleeping apartments 
or granaries, although at the time they were built the chief food of the Irish was animal. — See Wilde's Lough Corrib. 



MA YO. 



391 



ing on Clew Bay and the Atlantic, and embracing that beautiful line between 
mountain and sea from Newport to Achil Island, can be visited by rail from New- 
port to Mulrany, and by ferry over Achil Sound to the picturesque island. And 
just here we may quote Maxwell's suggestive glimpse of the various beauties of 
the panorama that is revealed from any of the mountain heights in the neighbor- 
hood of Mulrany: "We stood upon the very pinnacle of the ridge, two thou- 
sand feet above the level of the sea ; Clew Bay, that magnificent sheet of water, 
■was extended at our feet, studded with its countless islands ; inland, the eye 
ranged over a space of fifty miles ; and towns and villages beyond number were 




IMoyiic Abbey. 

Sprinkled over a surface covered with grass, and corn, and heath, in beautiful al- 
ternation. The sun was shining gloriously, and the variety of coloring presented 
by this expansive landscape was splendidly tinted by the vertical rays of light. 
The yellow corn, the green pasturage, the russet heaths, were traceable to an in- 
finite distance, while smaller objects were marked upon this natural panorama, 
and churches, towns, and mansions occasionally relieved the prospect. We 



392 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



turned from the interior to the west ; there the dark waters of the Atlantic ex- 
tended till the eye lost them in the horizon. Northward lay the Sligo Islands ; 










Head of the Killeries. 

and southward the Connemara 

\^j ' Mountains, with the noble islands of 

I " " I ^- Turk and Boffin — nearer objects seem 

almost beneath us ; Achil was below , 
Clare Island stretched at our feet ; while our own cabin j^. 

looked like a speck upon the canvas, distinguished only by 
its spiral wreath of smoke from the hillocks that encircled it. There was an 
indescribable loneliness around that gave powerful effect to all we saw. The 
dreariness of the waste we occupied was grand and imposing ; we were far 



MAYO. 



393 



removed from everything human ; we stood above the world, and could exclaim 
with Byron, ' This, ^/n's is solitude.' " * 

Arriving at Leenane from Cong, we can take a boat, and, crossing the Kil- 
leries, visit Delphi and Lough Finn. The ferry is half a mile across, and the 
Lodge is about two miles from the Mayo shore. The road to it is rendered 
attractive by the Bundoragh river, and the scene itself one of grandeur and 
beauty. The shores of Lough Finn have been adorned by extensive planta- 
tions, formed by a late Marquis of Sligo. In the immediate neighborhood is 
Doo Lough, some two miles long, the scenery around which Is a combination 
of the grand and the wild, and altogether imposingly fine ; the mountains pre- 
senting themselves in striking forms from every point of view, and rising from 
2,280 to 2,688 feet above the sea level. 

In crossing the Killeries, the inmost extremity or head of that glorious fiord or 
estuary lies eastward, and beyond Leenane. Apparently closed up, like a lake, 
by mountains of irregularly grand and picturesque forms and outlines, the scene is 
one which is only ^ 

enhanced in effect 
by the changes of 
light and shade 
during the day, 
or the exquisite 
effect of solemn 
solitude produced 
by the moonlight, 

From the head 
of the Killeries, c/.'w Bay. 

the glen through which the Owen Erriff river runs, making some pretty cascades 
in its course, exhibits many charming scenes, and in striking rural contrast to the 
magnificently wild aspect presented along the shores of the great estuary. In 
addition to the beauty of Glen Erriff, the stream is "good for anglers." The 
charm of this route to Westport consists, chiefly in the first part of it, the Glen 
to Erriff bridge, and the last, on approaching and descending into Westport ; the 
intermediate portion being moorland, which, however, affords the sportsman 
plenty of hare and grouse. The points of view present a succession of as fine 
mountain scenes as are in Ireland — here dark and deep gorges ; there a bold, 




* IFi/d Sports of the West. 



394 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



bare bulwark of a hill, presenting his huge shoulder ; and now a long, deep, quiet 
glen, with its green sides covered with flocks, which add a peaceful, pastoral char- 
acter to the profound silence. A description of one peculiarly serene evening on 
this route embodies the effect produced on all lovers of nature by the settino- 
of the sun in this region. The Slieve Partree range — and it is, as Otway says, 
a noble chain of great and singular variety — were covered with light, flocculent 
clouds, that under the tintings of the declining sun seemed as intended for a 
clothing of wrought gold, a raiment of heaven's own panoply ; and so trans- 
parent was it, that every grey precipice, and every beetling quartzose rock smiled 

in its turn under the 
sunshine, as they were 
now revealed, and again 
veiled, by the golden- 
fringed clouds that 
moved so gently, s o 
gracefully up the hill- 
sides, and then passed 
away in splendid masses 
eastward. 

Westport, a neat 
and clean-looking town, 
having a population of 
nearly 5,000, is situated 
in a narrow valley. A 
rippling mountain stream enters the town from the Marquis of Sligo's demesne, 
and runs through it ; and, as the two principal streets are parallel to it on either 
side, and are planted with trees, the effect is very pleasant. Before railroad 
communication, it was the port of the West, and the wharfs and warehouses, 
which are on a scale large enough for Dublin, now vacantly indicate the former 
importance of the place. From the upper part are grand views of the moun- 
tains and Clew Bay ; and the ascent of Croagh Patrick, at the foot of which are 
the ruins of Murrisk Abbey, four miles distant, must not be neglected. 

Seventeen miles from Westport — due west in the ocean, extending from the 
middle of the entrance to Clew Bay, in a south-westerly line, to opposite the lower 
point of the Killeries — are the islands of Clare, Innisturk, Innisboffin, and Innis- 
shark. The former, which contains 3,959 acres, is, perhaps, the most beautiful on 
the Irish coast. From the summit of Knockmore, 1,520 feet above the sea, the 




Ruins of St. Caiman's. 



MAYO. 



395 



view embraces a mountainous sweep, with only one break, of 190 degrees of the 
horizon. Clare Island was the favorite residence of Grace O'Malley (Grana 
Uaile), whose exploits fill song and story. On Innisturk the signal tower is 629 
feet above sea level. The shores of Innisboffin (3,151 acres) are more varied 
than those of the others, but its greatest elevation is 292 feet. Here Cromwell 
erected a castle to protect the fishery ; and here, also, are the remains of the 
ancient church of St. Colman, a contemporary of Columbkille in the sixth century. 
Clew Bay contains twenty-eight square miles, and with its hundreds of islets, 
varying in size from a few acres to a mile in length, forms an archipelago of daz- 
zling beauty. There _.^ _^^ 
is nothing to which _ S, 
it can be compared, 
says • one of the 
guides to the West 
of Ireland, except 
the Thousand Isl- 
a n d s of the St. 
Lawrence, where the 
waters of Lake On- 
tario find their out- 
let. The sail through 
the Thousand Isles, 

as we well remem- Newport-Mayo. 

ber, is one of quick-recurring inspirations of surprise, beauty, and delight ; but the 
mountains over Clew Bay give the latter an incalculable scenic advantage over 
the St. Lawrence. By the shores of the bay, the islands are indistinguishable 
from the mainland. Leaving the shore, at every thirty or forty feet the waters 
of the bay are discovered gleaming around and marking the individuality, so to 
speak, of island after island. A zest is given to the delighted curiosity, and the 
tourist girds up his loins to face the great mountain side, eager to obtain more 
scope of vision. Excelsior ! The achievement will repay the toil. The shoulder 
of the mountain, about half way up, is of easy ascent, and may not deter lovers of 
the beautiful and grand among the gentler sex. To grapple with the Reek is 
more difficult and toilsome, hands, as well as feet, being called into use in winning 
the upward path. Although on every side the Reek has the appearance of termi- 
nating in a pinnacle that would hardly afford the climber foothold, yet, on attain- 
ing the top, we find a flat of about half an acre. From the summit of the Reek, 




396 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



or even from its shoulder, the view is extraordinary — the magnificent culmination 

of the developing surprises whicli lead to it. 

The Reek itself is of abiding interest, irrespective of the grand panorama 

displayed below and around it. Here St. Patrick sought solitude and prayed. 

Here he sounded his bell, and from the solemn altitude he blessed the land; and 

from it, too, as the legends have 
it, he hurled the venomous ser- 
pents and reptiles down the deep 
abyss of Lug-na-Naimh.* 

The little romantic town of 
Newport-Mayo, lies at the head 
of Clew Bay, nine miles north of 
Westport. From it a grand ex- 
cursion along the northern shore 
of the bay to Achill can be 
-^ *^ made, passing under the Maum 

Burrishoole Abbey. Thomas mountains, which attain 

a height of 2,000 feet, and are cleft into deep ravines, like Glendahork, Glen- 

thomas, Glennamaddoo, and crossing 

the narrow ridge of land that separ- 
ates the bay from Black Sea harbor ; 

rising at the southern end to 1,000 

feet. The scenery along this route 

puts all the traveling scribes at their 

wit's end. It bafifles their resources. 

There is so much of it that language 

becomes exhausted. In natural gran- 
deur and rude magnificence, Hall 

thought it unsurpassed, if approached, 

in Ireland ; and admits that on no 

occasion did he so completely feel his 





Cm rig a Hoohy Castle 



* The reader may desire to know what a Lug is. There is no lofty mountain without one. It is a sublime precipice, 
generally found on the north-eastern side, and which goes plumb down many hundred feet, and generally at the bottom 
is a tarn, or lake, whose depth from the surface is, perhaps, as great as the height of the precipice above. Ben Nevis 
has such a Lug, down-descending above fifteen hundred feet. The mountain of Lug-na-Quilla, the lord of the Wick- 
low range, and second highest in Ireland, has, as its name denotes, a noble one — so has Mangerton — so has Keeper — 
and so has Galtee More, and perhaps the grandest and most picturesque Lug of Irish mountains is that of Nephin. 
The fact alluded to, often struck us before reading Otway's notice of it (Tour in Connaught), and it might be illustrated 
by every traveler. Among the noticeable Lugs of other Irish mountains which come to mind, are of Kippure, which 
ends in Lough Bray, and of the Commeragh over Coom-Shenawn. 







Uli-i-CJiA, K,lJ-J-t;Jr{lii;S. 



398 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

utter inability to render justice to the wonderful works of nature. Nor is the 
district wanting in antiquarian and historical interest. About a mile from the 
town is Burrishoole Abbey, and further on, Carrig-a-Hooley Castle, both re- 
markable ruins. The abbey, which retains evidences of ancient splendor — 
some of the mullions and capitals being curious specimens of art — stands on the 
east bank of the river of Burrishoole. Carrig-a-Hooley, one of the castles of 
Grace O'Malley, was evidently built for strength — a stronghold in keeping with 
the domineering activity and courage of its dauntless mistress. The remains 
present a square keep of solid masonry, with the indications of a projecting barbi- 
can at one corner. It stands upon a rock, at the extremity of an arm of the 
sea, and was evidently surrounded by a strong wall, a part of which remains, with 
a small circular tower built into it. Beside it the water is deep enough to ride a 
vessel of considerable burden in concealment and shelter. Grana Uaile (Grace 
of the Isles) and her adventures are not only associated with this western region, 
but have attained a sort of national renown, her name being among those alle- 
gorically used to characterize Hibernia. This, doubtless, arose from her reply 
to Queen Elizabeth, at whose invitation Grana visited the English Court, which 
she astonished by her eccentricity, as well as by her self-possession and self- 
respect. Upon leaving, Elizabeth offered to create her a countess. " I don't 
want your titles," replied Grana; "are we not equal? If there be any good in 
the thing, I may as well make you one, as you me : Queen of England, I want 
nothing from you — ^enough for me is it to be at the head of my nation." 

Near Burrishoole is an interesting glen, from which arises Bengorm, 1,912 
feet high, and Buckoogh, 1,935 feet, on Loughs Feeagh and Furnace. A road 
runs through it for some eight miles, and the scenery is displayed to great 
advantage from the adjacent heights. As we proceed, the beauty and magnifi- 
cence of the scenery increase, and from the village of Bunowen, half way to 
Achill, a view is presented of almost inconceivable loveliness and grandeur. It 
is taken in at a glance. I n the extreme distance, across the bay, rises a line of 
mountains, of which the venerable and legend-haunted Croagh Patrick is the 
highest, seen with its peaked top in the clouds ; midway is the island-dotted bay. 
We stand above a terrific precipice ; the rocky strand beneath, although distant, 
seems so immediately under our feet that a stone thrown by a child might reach 
the ocean. Pursuing our way the scenery becomes still wilder, the country 
thronging with lakes formed by innumerable streams rushing into the valleys from 
the surrounding mountains. It truly is, as Hall says, impossible to convey to 
those who appreciate the grace and beauty of " naked nature," an idea of the 



3fA YO. 



399 



many and powerful fascinations that meet the eye at every step. Not the least 
of the many attractions lies in the innumerable hues cast upon the landscape by 
either the rising, the midday, or the setting sun shining upon the rocks covered 
with heath and wild flowers. The English artist, Mr. Fairholt, in a paper de- 
signed to incite his professional fellow-countrymen to study Irish scenery, spe- 
cially speaks of the grandeur of this region, and its picturesque inhabitants, and 
also dwells on the delight of the botanist amid a richness of beautiful plants, 
among them, " the heath only to be met with here and on the shore of the Med- 
iterranean," and the " silvery bog-flax waving luxuriantly on the flats." The 
road, over the elevated moorland tract of Corraun Achill, in whose wild 
recesses some 
red deer yet sur- 
vive, brings us 
to the Sound, 
where the ferry 
takes us to the 
Island. Achill 
Island, contain- 
ing 36,037 acres, 
is chiefly com- 
posed of lofty 
mountains and 

intervening bogs. It is about twenty miles long, and has a population of nearly 
5,000. Heath, juniper, and coarse grass are abundant, but there is scarcely a tree ; 
and the inhabitants, who are principally engaged in fishing, dwell in houses made 
of uncemented round stones gathered on the beach. The gables are rounded, 
roofed with heath or fern ; and a village of them, numbering over forty, did not 
present one chimney. There is here a Protestant mission, established in 1833. 
Among the grand sights to be seen, and places visited, are Lake Nakeeroge, 
Slievemore, 2,204 f^^t, and the perpendicular cliffs of Minaun, three miles long 
and 900 feet high; of Keene, two miles long and 1,000 feet high, and the tre- 
mendous and terrific concave curve extending four miles from Saddle Head, the 
loftiest range of sea precipices in the British empire. At a point of 1,000 
feet they are nearly vertical ; at an elevation of 1,900 the angle of inclination to 
the sea is 60, and the highest point is the summit of Slieve Croaghan, 2,192 
feet ; for, in fact, this elevation, which looks like " a gigantic hill fort," is a 
part of the face of the great precipice that overhangs the ocean. It is cut 
sheer down on the one side, like the Half Dome in the Yosemite Valley. 




A \ lUaoe on 4chill 



400 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Rod s on 4c /nil 



Leaving these 
stupendous barriers 
to the Atlantic, and 
making our head- 
quarters at Castle- 
bar, where there is 
a Round Tower, or 
Ballina, we may 
visit, according to 
the suggestions al- 
ready made (p. 
390), other points 
of attraction in the 
county. 

The scenery on 

Loughs Conn and Cullin, with bold headlands, and long rocky ridges jutting out 
on all sides into the water, making beau- 
tiful lines, with the mountains all around 
for backgrounds, surmounted on the west 
by the great Nephin, one of the finest of 
Irish mountains (2,646 feet), gives the 
artistic eye continuously beautiful sur- 
prises. 

From Ballina many profitable excur- 
sions may be made : to the beautifully situ- 
ated ruins of Rosserk Abbey, on the Moy ; 
to the splendid ruins of Moyne Abbey, a 
Franciscan foundation of the fifteenth cen- 
tury ; to Killala, where there is a Round 
Tower, or by ready conveyance across the 
wild, but variously attractive moorland 
and mountain districts of Tyrawley and 
Erris. 

From Downpatrick Head to Muilrea, 
guarding the Killeries, and from the wild 
rocks of Achill to the placid bosom of the Moy, wherever you go, the lover of 
nature cannot fail to be surprised and delighted with the scenery of Mayo. 




On the iMoy. 




Copyright, 1878, by Tliomas Kelly, NeivYork. 




Coi'yri^jlit IbSO hy Tliouiivs Kelly, Nuw York. 



Russell -k Strutbers, Engr's N^Y. 



CARLOW. 







Carlov) and Surrotindi^ig Country. 

The inland county of Carlow, one of the smallest subdivisions of Ireland, lies 
between the great granite district of Wicklow, and the coal formation of the 
Queens County and Kilkenny. It is about twenty-six miles in length from north 
to south, and some three miles less in width. Although it may be, in the minds 
of some, more interesting from the pleasing variety than the sublimity of its 
scenery, still the lover of the picturesque may not be disappointed if he rambles 
through the mountain chain, from Mount Leinster (2,610 feet high) to Black- 
stairs, which runs along the south-western line of the county, separating it by this 
great natural barrier from Wexford. The only passage into the latter is by 

401 



402 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Scullao-h Gap, which was the scene of some memorable deeds in the '98 strug- 
gle. Here the Wexford refugees, after the terrible slaughter at Vinegar Hill, 
led by the patriot priest. Father John Murphy, drove the royalist troop through 
the pass, and pressed his way into Kilkenny, defeating the enemy at Gores- 
bridge and Castlecomer. And here also, on the return of his disheartened com- 
mand, after the disastrous surprisal in a fog on Kilcomney Hill, two brave men, 
James Cody and Michael Lacy, under shelter of a rock, and by a bold and 
well-directed fire, defended the pass against a body of cavalry, and enabled many 
of their comrades to make good their escape. 

The general face of the county is undulating, especially where the rivers Bar- 
row and Slaney form broad valleys of rural beauty, and great fertility. The 
country about Blackstairs, which takes the name from its rugged character and 
sombre appearance, is comparatively barren and of unattractive aspect. To the 
^^_ . west of the river Barrow, the 

" " mountainous range is beauti- 

fully fringed with wood, attrac- 
tively enhanced by cultivation. 
This section is called the Ridge 
of Old Leighlin. While the 
X~ county is well watered, there 
is nothing in it which might be 
called a lake, although the old 
name Caihcr-lough, the castle 
of the lake, of which its present 
designation is an Anglicized 
corruption, would indicate a derivation from the existence of such a feature. 

The more ancient kings of Leinster had their royal residence at Diiirigh, 
the fortress or mound of the kings, near Leighlin Bridge. Slainge Mac Deala, 
one of the Firbolg kings, died there, and hence, it is said, it was called Dzmtha 
Slainge, or, the assemblies in commemoration of Slainge. In after times, the 
kings of Leinster had residences at Ferns and Old Ross in the county of Wex- 
ford, and at Ballymoon in Carlow. The county formed the northern part of the 
ancient principality of Hy-Kinselagh, embracing the territories of Hy-Cabanagh 
and Hy-Drone, and was one of the twelve counties into which King John divided 
all those parts of Ireland that acknowledged his government. Tradition has it 
that it was after a conflict with O'Ryan, lord of Hy-Drone, that Strongbow, 
passing through to the relief of Fitz Stephen in Wexford, slew his son for cle- 




The " Mound of ilic Kings." 



CARLO IV. 



403 



serting his post during the battle. The importance attached to this territory by 
the invaders is evinced by the fact that within a few years the castles of Carlow, 
Leighlin, and Tullow were erected by Hugh de Lacy. 

The town of Carlow is situated on the eastern bank of the " Goodlie Bar- 
row." With one exception the principal towns of the county, Leighlin Bridge, 
Bagnelstown, Borris, are seated on this river, which is navigable for forty-three 
miles. The chief features of the town are, the Court House, a fine Protestant 
Church, and the Catholic Cathedral, with the College adjoining. The Cathedral 
is a rather stately edifice with a tower, but the interior is very bare. It contains, 
however, a very noble monument to the famous Dr. James Doyle, bishop of 
Kildare and Leighlin ( " J. K. L." ) in the act of protecting and pleading for Ire- 
land, which is represented by a female figure resting on one knee, her right hand 
supporting her bent head, and her . __ ^-_ 

left embracing the harp. It is one of 
the finest of Hogan's works. Of it 
Thackeray said, "The severe and 
homely features of the good bishop 
were not favorable subjects for Mr. 
Hogan's chisel ; but a figure of pros- 
trate weeping Ireland, kneeling by 
the prelate's side, and for whom he 
is imploring protection, has much 
beauty." The college is assured a 
memory in history and literature. 
Doyle successively filled the chairs 
of rhetoric, humanity, and theology 
before he was raised to the episcopate ; and within its walls the spirit of song 
oppressed Richard Dalton Williams into vehement utterance, and impelled him, 
while yet a student there, to send his earliest ballads to the Nation. 

The remains of Carlow Castle, situated on an eminence of sufficient altitude 
to have given it watchful and protecting guardianship over the town, indicate 
the original massiveness and strength of the edifice. It was in the usual Anglo- 
Norman style, a square area inclosed by strong walls, fortified at each corner 
with a round tower. From the time of its erection, about 1180, to the year 1650 
when it felt the effect of Ireton's cannon, this castle experienced many a reverse 
of fortune ; one time in the hands of the Irish, and the next in those of their 
enemies ; now affording protection to the besieged rebels, and again giving 




Carlow Castle 



404 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




the English soldiers 'vantage ground to hurl from its battlemented walls, mis- 
siles on the "Irish enemy" below; now proposed by the government to be 
granted, with " its lands and appurtenances," to some young adventurers from 
England, to induce them to carry on an exterminating unholy crusade against 
the Inhabitants of the neighboring districts ; and at another time given by the 
English possessors of the soil to some " Irish military agent, who (in the exac- 
tion of their tributes) might employ the law of the land or the sword, as circum- 
stances would require." It withstood the ravages of war and time until 1814, 
when a physician — with a carelessness amounting to gross vandalism — desiring 

to utilize the 
-^ building for the 

purposes of a 
lunatic asylum, 
attempted to 
blast out some 
portion of the 
foundation, and 
destroyed more 
than half of the 
beautiful struc- 
ture. One can- 
not help wish- 
ing, with Sir 
John Forbes, 
that it had been 
brought down 
literally about 
The road from Carlow to Leighlin Bridge is' exceedingly beautiful ; 
noble purple hills rising on either side, and the broad silver Barrow flowing 
through rich meadows of that " astonishing verdure, which," says Thackeray, " is 
only to be seen in this country." On this route, four miles from Carlow, a very 
fine prospect is presented at Milford, where there is one of the most extensive 
and celebrated flour mills in Ireland. As the building is castellated, situated in 
a lovely valley, watered by the river, and encompassed by woods and hills, with 
the peak of Mount Leinster, and the mountains of Blackstairs and Brandon in 
the background, the whole effect is one of cultivated significance and great pic- 
turesque beauty. 




Milford — Motint Leinsicr ajid Blackstairs in the distance. 



his ears. 



CORK. 




Queens College, Cork. 

The county of Cork, which is the largest in Ireland, comprises an area of 
2,885 square miles, or 1,846,333 acres, its greatest length, east and west, being 

405 



4o6 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

iio miles, and its greatest breadth, running north and south, 70 miles. It cm- 
braces more than half of the southern coast of Ireland, taking in the western 
shore of Youghal Harbor, and the eastern shore of the great estuary Kenmare 
River, as far up as Ardgroome, and is indented with several bays, such as Cork 
Harbor, Kinsale, Courtmacksherry, Clonakilty, Rosscarbery, Glandore, Balti- 
more, Dunmanus, and Bantry. Cork presents a surface of very great variety, 
and innumerable scenes of splendor and beauty. In the western part the pre- 
vailing character is that of wildness, from its bold, rocky and mountainous confor- 
mation, the same as that of Kerry, which forms its entire western boundary. 
The scenery on Bantry Bay with the adjacent mountain and lake glories of 
Glengariff and Gougane Barra, are quite famous in song and legend. The 
southern part presents stupendous masses of chistose rock to the Atlantic. The 
wildness of the west and the coast is balanced by the richness and fertility of the 
north and east. While Nature has bestowed an unequal surface on the county of 




Cork Harbor. 

Cork, she has preserved some order in her variety. The ranges of high and low 
land run nearly east and west, at least with sufficient regularity to indicate it as a 
leading feature. Thus in traveling for any distance from north to south we are 
perpetually crossing hills, while going from east to west, interruptions of this 
nature are less frequent, and might be easily overcome altogether. The longitu- 
dinal ranges are intersected by glens and gullies, through which the streams and 
rivulets, flowing, usually with rapidity, to the low lands, form many attractive 
cascades and waterfalls. 

As in parts of Kerry, rivers often mark the limits of the limestone tracts which 
run in the general direction of the mountain ranges, and are hardly ever found 
in elevated positions. The Blackwater, in its course for the greater part of the 
way from Millstreet to Fermoy, runs at the south side of the limestone. Be- 
tween Castlemore and Cork City, some eleven miles, the line of the limestone is 
distinctly marked, first by the Bride, and after its junction with the Lee, by the 



CORK. 



407 



latter river. During this space the limestone adheres to one side of the channel 
throughout its windings without once crossing it. The most extensive tracts of 
low grounds are those in which limestone is found. The largest lies north of the 
Blackwater, to the Ballyhoura Mountains, and is almost twenty miles long, and 
varies in breadth from five to nine miles. This beautiful and rich extent, though 
comparatively speaking a " flat country," is agreeably diversified with gentle 
swellings, and contains but little dead level land. 

Throughout the greater part of the county this undulating character of sur- 




Crosshaven. 



face is preserved. Even the mountains are little more singular in their outlines 
than the lower grounds, and a striking similitude exists between both in their 
respective vicinities. The Blackwater and Ballyhoura Mountains, enclosing the 
district alluded to, exhibit along the line of their summits a gently varying 
profile, while the rocky mountains of the south-west correspond, in their more 
abrupt and striking and bold conformations, with the ruggedness of the neigh- 
boring lands. 

Cork is abundant in fresh waters as in an extensive coast. It has fine rivers, 
springs and rivulets without number, and many lakes, chiefly in the mountains. 



4o8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Few rivers afford such a variety of rich and beautiful scenery as the Blackwater, 
which, rising on the confines of Kerry, forms the boundary between that county 
and Cork for some eight or ten miles, and from Millstreet runs east across the 
county into Waterford, where it beautifies Lismore and Cappoquin, and return- 
ing into Cork, discharges itself into Youghal Harbor. With a range of lofty 
mountains on one side, and an extent of fair and fertile country on the other, 
with the frequent advantage of stately plantations on both, the scenery exhibits 
happy and most picturesque contrasts. The Lee, beloved of Corkonians, if inferior 







HaiUbowline and Spike Islands. 



in size, is claimed to be " superior in dignity," as it girdles the " beautiful citie." 
Rising in the romantic Gougane Barra, encompassed by wild and bare mountains, 
it forces its devious and irregular passage through the hills and some beautiful 
localities, until it reaches the vale in which the City of Cork stands, from which 
downwards it may challenge comparison with the most celebrated rivers of the 
empire, whether the winding variety of its river channel, or the diversified rich- 
ness of its cultivated shores is considered. The Bandon, which rises in the Dun- 
manway Mountains, and seeks the sea at Kinsale ; the Hen, which rises in the 
mountains above Drimoleague, meets the tide below Skibereen, and becomes 



CORK. 



409 






merged In the estuary of the bay of Baltimore ; and the Awbeg, a tributary of 
the Blackwater, are rivers of less extent, but are associated with scenes of his- 
toric fame or scenic beauty. The Awbeg, the principal of a number of smaller 
streams, is amongst the most famous in English song, being celebrated as 
" the Gentle Mulla," by Spenser, who wrote the Faerie Queene on its banks, 
and otherwise commemorated it in his lines in honor of Raleigh's visit to him, 
by "the Mulla's shore." The general rapidity of the streams offers great advan- 
tages for the effective use of water-power and the erection of mills, which have 
been largely embraced, adding the human interest of industry to the otherwise 
attractive banks. The small mountain lakes are not surpassed by any In the 
land, and chalybeate springs occur in various districts, the principal medicinal 
waters being those of Mallow. 

The seaward approach to Cork, or rather to the coast, on which Roche's 
Point is, so to speak, the picket, and Forts Carlisle and Camden the sentinels, 
on what Thomas Moore called " the noble 

sea avenue to Cork," is not, in the gen- ^s^^Wl ^^= 

eral acceptation, especially attractive. It 
presents, however, that rugged, if not 
gloomy character, which is inseparable 
from the more picturesque forms of coast 
scenery. This effect helps to heighten 
the interest of the views developed as we 
break through the natural gateway of the 
coast. Passing Roche's Point, we sail for 
two miles between bold headlands, about 
a mile apart, to the forts, and entering 
the expanding waters of Cork harbor, 
realize all that sense of delightful ap- 
preciation which a feeling of security 
adds to the enjoyment of physical beauty. 
Fronting the entrance is the natural 

breakwater of Spike Island. Cove, or Oueenstown, is two miles distant, and 
the width of the harbor, exclusive of creeks and bays, is four miles, forming, 
it is said by English authorities, not only the most beautiful harbor in the 
United Kingdoms, but also the finest, most capacious, and most secure haven 
In Europe. It is large enough to contain the whole navy of Great Britain. 
The Importance of the harbor built up Cove during the great war with France. 




The Depot on Rocky Island. 



4IO 



PICT LIRE SO UE I RE LA ND. 



It was then made a naval station ; 6co vessels anchored at a time in its waters, 
and 400 have sailed out from its sheltering embrace under convoy in one day. 

After passing Fort Camden on the west, is the Creek of Crosshaven, which 
pierces into the land for a considerable distance. When closely pursued by the 
Spanish fleet through the channel from the open sea, Sir Francis Drake suddenly 
doubled into Crosshaven, and was so effectually hidden as to elude the anxious 
vigilance of his pursuers. It seemed impossible that he could elude, much less 
escape them. The Spaniards spent some days in vain efforts to discover his 
hiding-place or means of escape. To this day the place of his succor is known 
as Drake's Pool. 




Fishing-boats off Haulbowline. 



There are three islands in Cork harbor belonging to the crown : Spike, Haul- 
bowline, and Rocky. The latter, about two and a half acres, contains the powder 
magazine, of six chambers, excavated in the solid rock. Opposite to it is Haul- 
bowline, twenty-eight acres, used as an ordnance depot, and containing a reser- 
voir of 5,000 tons of fresh water. Around Haulbowline, to visit which there is 
no restriction, fishing-boats anchor awaiting favorable tide to put to sea. Spike, 
the most conspicuous of the islands, contains 100 acres, has a fort, and is a con- 
vict depot, capable of accommodating 2,000 unfortunates. Here John Mitchel 
was temporarily incarcerated until carried off to Bermuda, in 1848. Within this 
rueful enclosure a touching meeting occurred, to the simple and dramatic por- 
trayal of which by Mitchel, in his Jail Jout^nal, nothing can be added. 



CORK. 



411 



" There is a door in the high wall leading into another enclosure, and as I 
-was taking a turn through my territory to-day, the turnkey was near that door, 
and he said to me in a low voice, ' This way, sir, if you please ; ' he held the 
door open, I passed through, and immediately a tall, gentleman-like person, in 
black but rather overworn clothes, came up to me and grasped both my hands, 
with every demonstration of reverence. I knew his face, but could not at first 
remember who he was — he was Edward Walsh, author of Mo Craoibhin Cno, 
and other sweet songs, and of some very musical translations -from old Irish bal- 
lads. Tears stood in his eyes as he told me he had contrived to get an oppor- 




Easi Ferry. 



tunity of seeing and shaking hands with me before I should leave Ireland. I 
asked him what he was doing at Spike Island, and he told me he had accepted 
the office of teacher to a school they keep here for small convicts — a very 
wretched office indeed, and to a shy, sensitive creature like Walsh, it must be 
daily torture. He stooped down and kissed my hands. 'Ah!' he said, 'you 
are now the man in all Ireland most to be envied.' I answered that I thought 
there might be room for difference of opinion about that ; and then, after 
another kind word or two, being warned by my turnkey, I bade him farewell, 
and retreated into my own den." The commentary of the captive patriot on the 
position of the patient poet is not less touching than characteristic. "Poor 



412 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Walsh! He has a family of young children; he seems broken in health and 
spirit ; ruin has been on his traces for years, and I think has him in the wind at 
last. There are more contented galley-slaves moiling at Spike than the school- 
master. Perhaps this man does really envy me ; and most assuredly I do not 
envy him." 

The fortifications on Spike were commenced in 1791, under the direc- 
tion of Colonel, afterwards General Vallancey. The English officer of engi- 
neers was a man of erudition, and, under the instruction of a stone-mason 

engaged on the work, became 

^^^vri:'>' -interested in the study of the 

J^^^^^^ff=-._ Irish language, and so enthu- 

i --- -^- - siastic in the pursuit of the 

^- ' "^ - . path opened to him by its 

^^ philological and antiquarian 

_r - ' teachings, as to completely 

identify himself and his re- 
searches with the origin, ar- 
Chceology, and antiquities of 
the race. However visionary 
the foundation of some of 
Vallancey's theories, it cannot 
be denied that his energy and 
research led to the develop- 
ment of many important facts. 
The famous " Cove " of 
Cork, now called Queens- 
town, to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria, in 1849, is situated on the 
south side of Great Island, which forms the north side of the harbor. The 
island is over five miles from east to west, and two from north to south. 
Queenstown, facing the south, and rising abruptly on the hillside to a height of 
over three hundred feet, presents a commanding and charming prospect, and 
affords a beautiful, and not too distant, background to the picturesqueness of 
the harbor, its islands and shipping. Great Island is fertile and populous, 
and holds communication with the surrounding country by a bridge on the 
north side, and by ferries on the east and west. From the great salubrity of 
its position, and protection from northern winds, Queenstown is a favorite resort 
of invalids. As the mails from America are delivered here, and travellers who 






Cove " — Queenstown. 



CORK. 



413 



■object to the disagreeable experience of the Irish Channel generally land also, 
and passing too hastily from Killarney to Giant's Causeway, cross over to Scot- 
land, a brief but pleasant memory of Oueenstown and the views from its terraced 
streets is retained ; but if tourists have a day to devote to its vicinity, many 
relics might be visited, and interesting reminiscences refreshed. From the heights 
over the town magnificent views of the ocean, the harbor, its entrance, forts, and 
islands, and the surrounding country are obtained ; and when the atmosphere is 




Louirh Mahon. 



favorable, and the shimmering waters still further enlivened by numerous vessels 
in full sail, the prospect, so full of life and light, and diversified combinations of 
-water, landscape, and sky, can scarcely be surpassed anywhere. The road across 
the ridge of Great Island, from the east to the west ferry, is very steep ; but there 
is a low road along the shore, by the hamlet of Carrigaloe, by which those not 
over-enthusiastic in search of extensive views can be accommodated. From the 
ruins of Templerobin, by the high road, are some fine views, and in the ceme- 
tery surrounding the ruins of Clonmel Church {Teamptd larJmr'), a mile 



414 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



back over the heights from Oueenstown, are interred John Tobin, the author of 
The Honeymoon, and the Rev. Charles Wolfe, author of the Burial of Sir JoJui^ 
Moore. This island is one of the earliest landmarks of ancient Irish history. 
In the archaic period it was known as Arda Neimhid, the high place of Neme- 
dius, the leader from whom the second colonists — Nemedians — of Ireland are 
named. Having been vanquished by the Formorian colonists in the north, Ne- 
medius and some three thousand of his followers were swept off by a plague on 
this island. After the Anglo-Norman invasion it was held by the Hodnetts for 
150 years, until the Barrys and Roches slew Lord Philip 
Hodnett, and all his adherents, in 1329. The Barrys 
then got possession, and it was called Barrymore to a 
recent date. The ancient castle of Barry's Court, in the 
vicinity on the mainland, a stately ruin forty years ago, 
has been renovated, and is a striking object. From 
Oueenstown, on the same day, the tourist can visit the 
ancient cathedral town of Cloyne, which, in addition to 
its delightful scenery and a round tower, possesses that 
ever-abiding interest associated with great and beloved 
characters. It was founded in the sixth century by 
Colman, a saintly scholar and poet, and gave the title 
of bishop in the eighteenth century to George Berkeley, 
a scholar and metaphysician, who, as Pope said of him, 
" had every virtue under heaven." Here may be seen a 
hedge of myrtles planted by the hand of the Bishop, 
each root of which he nourished with his great specific, 
tar. The memory of Berkeley is enshrined in the literary 
history of America, his love for the diffusion of educa- 
tion having led him to these shores a century and a half ago, and his gener- 
osity in its behalf inciting him to present his farm at Newport to Yale College, 
and to make munificent gifts of books to both Yale and Harvard. His famous 
poem, concluding with the oft-quoted lines. 




Round To-djcr at Cloyne. 



" Westward the course of empire takes its way ; 
The four first acts already past, 
A fifth shall close the drama with the day ; 
Time's noblest offspring is the last," 



will be remembered, as prophetic of the prospect of planting not only arts 



CORK. 



415 



and learning-, but political empire in America, when many of his distinguished 
contemporaries will be forgotten. Cloyne also receives honor from its Cath- 
olic bishop in Berkeley's time, who was Dr. O'Brien, author of the noted 
Irish-English Dictionary. The Cathedral is an unpretentious, heavy, cruci- 
form old structure, containing monuments of the Fitzgeralds and Longfields, 
and of Bishops Woodward, Warburton, and Bennett, of the Anglican Church. 
Returning to Queenstown, there is a choice of three 

routes to Cork, ^a^aS y^^^ ^^-- two by rail, and 




Cloyne Cathedral. 



waters of the river Lee ; the trip by water is much to be preferred to that 
of the other routes. 

The sail up the river Lee, from Queenstown to the city of Cork, embraces 
some of the most cultivated scenery in the south of Ireland; and, after a sea- 
voyage especially, is sure to inspire the ecstatic admiration and compliments of 
the tourist. A perpetual variety is presented along the whole course, and the 
eye, "whilst lingering over some happy picture, is continually attracted by some 
new succession possessing all the charms of the most romantic landscape." The 
land seems everywhere around you, and in its perpetual changes makes the river 
appear a series of lakes, from which, as Hall says, "there is no passage except 



4i6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




over one of the hills." The hill-sides, from water's edge to summit, are covered 
with every variety of rich foliage, delightful plantation, and villa garden. An 
Eastern traveller, who accompanied S. C. Hall on the river trip to Cork, ob- 
served, "that a few minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realize the 
Bosphorus." Arthur Young thought this neighborhood preferable in many re- 
spects to anything he 
had seen in Ireland, and 
one of the latest observ- 
ers. Sir John Forbes, 
says it would be difficult 
to overpraise the beauty 
of the Lee from Cork 
to Queenstown. "In. 
deed," to use his own 
words, " every element 
of beauty that can min- 
gle in such a scene 
seemed to be here com- 
prised ; we had a stream 
ever varying in its course 
and outline, of ample 
breadth, yet not too 
broad to prevent distinct 
recognition of the ob- 
jects on its banks ; wa- 
ter of a color and pu- 
rity like the sea ; lofty 
barriers on either side 
covered with rich woods, 
and intermingled with 
green, park-like fields 
and shining villas ; here 
and there white villages 
on level patches of shore ; 
and the whole animated, and, as it were, humanized by the peopled steamers 
sweeping up and down, the boats and yachts sailing or pulling about, and a ship or 
two at anchor (decked out in their national flags) in every bay that opened out 




The Mathciu lower. 




SUNDAVS WEU-.— THE MATHE-W STATUE.-KOKTl 1 
ABOVE ^fORTH BRIDGE. 



-L., 1-HOM THE LEE 



4i8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



upon us as we pursued our course." The same writer dwells with a high sense 
of appreciation on the moral and physical advantages presented by the excur- 
sions down the river, through the harbor, and out into the open sea, which are 
indulged in by the inhabitants of the city. "It is hardly possible," he adds, " to 
imagine a more delightful means of recreation, or one more wholesome or more 
rational, for the inmates of a crowded city, than this hebdomadal excursion on 
the Sunday afternoon, after a week of labor and confinement in their airless 
courts and shops. And happy are the Corkites that they can command so 
sweet and pure a luxury, amid scenes which are in themselves an exquisite 
luxury, for so small a sum as half a day's wages of a working man. I could not 
help wishing that our London had been so situated that her children of labor 

also might have been able to 
add the delight of an open sea 
to their river trips." Passing, 
or rather stopping at. Monks- 
town, for it is a steamer land- 
ing and a notable watering- 
place, under the castle, the 
next river station is at Pas- 
sage, where the tourist may, 
contrary to our advice, take 
the railway to Cork. The cas- 
tle of Monkstown recalls a story illustrative of both wifely affection, ambition, 
and economy, which may be briefly repeated. It was built in the reign of James 
I. by Anastatia, the wife of John Archdeacon, while the latter was serving under 
Philip of Spain. Loving him well, she resolved to surprise her husband on his 
return, by presenting him with a stately castle. Not having means at her dis- 
posal, she carried out the project by practical economy, and the expedient of 
monopolizing the sale of food and other necessaries to the workmen. Pur- 
chasing largely she had a large profit, and on adjusting accounts found that she 
was only out of pocket just one groat — fourpence. Archdeacon enjoyed the re- 
sult of his busy wife's love and brain for a quarter of a century ; but it was lost 
by their successor's adherence to the cause of the Stuarts. In the general opin- 
ion — from Windele to the latest " official guide " — Father Prout took a poetical 
license in describing Passage as " both large and spacious," and " nate and 
dacent." The Lee here expands into the sheet of water called Lough Mahon, 
with Foaty Island on the right, and the picturesque towers of Blackrock Castle, 




Father Mathew's Temperance Medal. 



CORK. 



419 



at the extremity of a rocky promontory, in the nearing distance. From any 
point of view this castle is an effective feature. A castle or watch-tower was 
erected here by Lord Mountjoy, in the reign of James I., as a protection to the 
river. The corporation of Cork repaired and improved it in 1722. It was 
subsequently destroyed by fire ; when, over forty years ago, the present hand- 
some structure was built after designs by Mr. Payne. The river front consists 
of a water-gate, supported by two embattled towers, beside which stands the 
chief tower, pierced with numerous windows, above which rises a light and lofty 
turret, terminated by a machicolated battlement, and two oblong masses below, in 
keeping with the design. The turret contains a light for the guidance of the 
shipping ; and at .the water-gate the canopied barges of the mayor and corpora- 
tion land their jovial crews and attendants upon the first of August, when the 
mayor, as admiral of the harbor, casts a dart into the tide as an assertion of his 
jurisdiction, and holds court in the castle. Blackrock 
is supposed to be the place from which William Penn 
embarked for America. Near the village is the con- 
vent of Ursulines, one of the most celebrated institu- 
tions of its kind in Ireland. Back of it, at some dis- 
tance is the village of Douglas, In the bosky grave- 
yard of which lie the remains of Richard A. Milll- 
kin, the wit and poet, whose song, " The Groves of 

Blarney," is known in every region. Near Blackrock Castle is the venerable 
ivied ruin of Rhinn-Mahon, while the hill at the opposite side of the river is 
crowned by a modern castellated edifice, built in honor of the mission and 
success of Father Theobald Mathew. 

The Mathew Tower, on the left bank of the Lee, was erected during the life- 
time of the Apostle of Temperance, by Mr. O'Connor, a wealthy citizen of Cork. 
It happily adorns a beautiful position, and from its battlements and the surround- 
ing walks, views of great variety and magnificence are obtained. Below the 
tower Is a statue of Father Mathew In the act of administering the temperance 
pledge, and close by is' a fountain, ever playing, and suggestively throwing out 
its crystal gems of beauty and health. The scenery all around, from Foaty Park 
to Foaty Island, seems in cultivated accord with the spirit of comfort which 
might be indicated by the Mathew memorial. 

The river banks, both on the Glanmire (north) and Blackrock (south) side, 
to the cit}'-, are covered with villas. The Glanmire. side is especially rich In 
romantic and woody glens and hills. Approaching the city the river divides into 




The Cork Arms. 



420 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



two branches at the custom-house, that building occupying the tongue of land 
which makes the division. We pursue the right, or north channel, and landing, 
find ourselves almost immediately before Foley's noble statue of Father Mathew, 
facing the elegant and commodious Patrick's Bridge, which spans the northern 
branch of the Lee by three arches, and connects Bridge Street on the north with 
Patrick Street, one of the grand thoroughfares, on the south. 

The city of Cork occupies the centre of a deep valley, of considerable ex- 
tent, which stretches from east to west, and is enclosed on every side by a rich 





Patricks Bridge and Camden Quay, from Merchant s Quay. 



girdle of high hills. The river Lee divides itself above the city on the west, 
and meeting again, as indicated, at the custom-house, after a separation of two 
miles, forms an island, on a portion of which the old city was built. Indeed, 
there were several marshy islands, which by degrees have been reclaimed and 
absorbed by the growth of the city. At the commencement of the seventeenth 
century the city consisted of one principal street, still remaining, the Main 
Street, and the north and south extremities were guarded by castles, which com- 
manded the approaches by drawbridges. Little seems to have been done in the 













<" <^ ^ J %^ • -^ V 4 l^t^ H mS 





#. 








'' •;'■';? -'i^H 



THE MARDVKE, CORK. 



422 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



way of reclaiming the marshes until the reign of William III., when the corpora- 
tion began to form new streets and erect public buildings. In 1701 there were 
but two entrances to the city, one on the north leading from Dublin, and one on 
the south leading from Kinsale. 

The protecting castles on Main Street, having fallen into a ruinous condition, 
were replaced by prisons in the early part of the last century ; and Windele, 
writing in 1839, says they stood until within a few years, and that the front of 
South-Gate Prison, overlooking the bridge, presented up to the time of its 
removal, "a hideous row of the skulls of malefactors." The streets and thor- 
oughfares of the old town were so narrow that two 
persons could not walk abreast, and one which could 
admit a cart was distinguished by the name of 
Broad Lane. In old Bridewell Lane, a passage 
four feet wide, stood the corn market, and in similar 
lanes were to be found the assembly rooms, as well 
as the fish market and post-office. In Dingle Lane 
stood the old theatre, upon whose boards Barry and 
Mossop delighted their audiences. A navigable 
stream, now arched over, ran through Castle Street, 
east of Main. At the extremity of the street it 
passed the city walls, and this water entrance was 
defended by the King's and Queen's Castles, whose 
position at either side of the stream gave rise to the Cork arms. In the middle 
of the last century a navigable branch of the river ran down the South Mall ; 
the south side, where the Bank of Ireland now stands, was an island, and beyond, 
to the modern Charlotte Quay, was a small tract called Goose Island. For 
years subsequent vessels sailed up Patrick's Street at tide-water ; and a map of 
1766 shows that the fields then reached down to the northern branch, and that 
the large district now in the city, east of the Dublin road, was under cultivation. 
These water-courses, great and small, have been arched over, elegant and spa- 
cious streets have been formed above them, and the city has extended over the 
north and south branches of the river to a very considerable extent, through 
which districts fine streets have been laid out ; and the progress still goes on. 
Several handsome bridges connect the old and new portions of the city, principal 
of which, as to effect, are Patrick's, Anglesey, and Parliament, while the North 
and South, and Clarke's Bridges, conveniently facilitate communication between 
some of the oldest and most populous districts. The rapid advancement of 




Portal of the Old Cathedral. 



CORK. 



423 



Cork is attributed to the matchless capabihties of its splendid harbor; and the 
recent and continuous improvements give the city in general a pleasant, pictur- 
esque, bus3^ and cheerful appearance. 

In the opinion of Marmion {Maritime Ports of Ireland^, Cork existed 
previous to the Christian era. There is no doubt that a city of considerable 
importance was then located between the Promontorium Austrimtm, now Mizen- 
Head, and the south-eastern part of the coast in the latitude of Cork. Its 
identity with the present locality of Cork has been suggested. It was here 
that the recorded expedition of the Irish monarch Crimthan was fitted out 
in the first century. This king made several 
successful expeditions into Britain and Gaul, 
harassing those who were attached to the Ro- 
mans. He brought back " extraordinary and 
costly treasures," among them " a golden chariot 
and a golden chess-board inlaid with three hun- 
dred transparent gems ; a tunic of various colors ; 
a conquering sword, with a variety of serpents 
beautifully wrought thereon in refined gold ; a 
shield embossed with pure silver ; a spear, from 
whose wound no one could recover ; a sling that 
never missed the mark ; two hounds leashed by 
a silver chain, worth a hundred cumhals," etc.* 
In addition to the spoils he brought — as O'Hal- 
loran suggests — improved military knowledge, 

from conflicts with the Romans, and introduced a new and more perfect discipline 
among his own troops. 

If Cork was not the city indicated, the Cork we know has a deeply inter- 
esting antiquity and history. Its origin was not — as has been set forth by 
some writers of character — due to the Danes, but clearly to a more gentle 
inspiration. Saint Finn Bar, quitting the beautiful but wild solitudes of Gou- 
gane Barra, founded a cathedral on the site of an older temple, portions of 
which were standing at the commencement of the last century. He added to 
his church a religious house and school, which attained so much celebrity that 




Tomb tn the Cemetery. 



* Another version says, "which chain was worth a hundred cumhals. Cumhal (Clival or Cooat), 
is translated ancillis, i. e.,fej/ta!e servants or slaves, by Lynch. Other authorities say that a cumhal was 
of the value of four cows. — O'Mahony's Keating. 



424 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



seven hundred students came to it " from all parts ; " and, says an ancient writer, 
" a desert as it were by quick degrees became a city." The growth of a hamlet 
or town was a natural consequence, and Saint Finn Bar, the first bishop of Cork, 
dyino- at Cloyne, in a.d. 617, had undoubtedly laid the unshakable foundations 
of the future city of Cork. 

According to the Annals of Innis fallen, Cork was "wasted" by the Z^^/J- 
lannabli (Scandinavians) in the years 822, 833, and 839. Brian Boru, leading an 
army into Desmond in 969, took hostages from Lismore and Cork. After plun- 
dering the old city and its religious houses, at intervals, during two hundred 
years, the Danes arrived with a fleet, and, in 1013 or 1020, as it is variously 
recorded, burned the city, and effected a settlement. After some eighteen years 
possession they were routed with great slaughter, and all their property de- 
stroyed. In 1080 it is 
said Cork was damaged 
or destroyed by light- 
ning, and eight years lat- 
er the Danes of Dublin, 
Waterford, and Wick- 
low made a combina- 
tion to recover posses- 
sion, but were defeated 
by the natives of West 
Carbery. About the 
same time, or in the 
following year, Dermot, 
son of Torlogh O'Brien, 
laid waste and plundered the town, and sacrilegiously carried off the relics of 
Saint Finn Bar. At the time of the Anglo-Norman invasion, Cork was a walled 
town, and was, with the adjacent country, in the hands of the Danes, who paid 
tribute to Dermot MacCarthy, prince of Desmond, of which extensive territory 
it was the capital. On the arrival of Henry II., MacCarthy paid homage and 
tribute, and surrendered his city of Cork, which was garrisoned by the invaders. 
Soon these had to evacuate it, and the prince of Desmond resumed occupation. 
In 1 1 77 the English king bestowed the surrounding country on Miles de Cogan 
and Robert Fitz Stephen, and, five years later, Dermot MacCarthy, having re- 
nounced allegiance, laid siege to Cork, and reduced the garrison under Fitz 
Stephen to such extremity, that only the arrival of Raymond le Gros from 




Scene in the Cemetery. 




CATHEDRAL, AND INTERIOR. 



426 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Waterford saved them. In 1185 MacCarthy laying siege to it again was slain, 
and for ten years it remained the only place in Munster possessed by the Anglo- 
Normans. In 1 195 the men of Desmond, under their prince, Donald Mac- 
Carthy, again besieged it, and totally defeated a large force sent to its relief ; but 
dissensions among the chieftains under him induced Donald to relinquish its 
capture. He soon, however, reinvested and took it by assault. In a few years 
the Anglo-Normans regained possession, and strengthened themselves by the 
erection of Shandon Castle. In 11 99 John de Spenser was provost, and is the 
first civic magistrate of Cork on record. For several centuries the records 

chiefly indicate the founding 
of a religious house, the ex- 
tension of the charter, the 
walling of the city ; that 
streets were paved, and 
bridges and quays construct- 
ed in 1 3 19; that the mayor 
and sheriffs were, by the 
king's writ, directed in 1325 
to detain ships, and arrest all 
subjects of the king of France ; 
that in 1359 members were 
sent to the Irish Parliament, 
and that Mortimer, Earl of 
March and Ulster, lord-lieu- 
tenant, died in the Dominican Friary in 1381. Perkin Warbeck, the impostor, 
visited Cork in 1492 and 1495, and having received royal recognition, the mayor, 
John Walter, was beheaded at Tyburn by Henry VII., and the city for some 
time deprived of its charter. During the reign of Elizabeth, protracted warfare 
devastated the neighborhood. During this period, Hollinshed the chronicler 
alludes to Cork as "the fourth Citie of Ireland, happilie planted on the sea. 
Their haven is a haven roiall. On the land side they are incumbred with evil 
neighbors — the Irish Outlaws, that they are fain to watch their gates hourlie, to 
keep them shut at service-time, at meales, from sun to sun, nor sufTer anie 
stranger to enter the Citie with his weapon ; but the same to leave at a lodge 
appointed. They walke out at seasons for recreation, with power of men fur- 
nished. They trust not the countrie adjoining, but match in wedlocke among 
themselves onlie, so that the whole Citie is welnieh linked one to the other in 




James Barry's Birthplace. 



CORK. 427 

affinitie." A few years later Camden described Cork as " being in the form of 
an &%g'^, with the river flowing round about it, and runninge betweene," a "popu- 
lous little trading town," but " beset with rebel enemies." The population was 
of mixed origin, " though united and dovetailed by intermarrriage — partly 
Irish, but more of Scandinavian and Norman-English descent." Outside of the 
walls the Barrys were at this time a powerful family, holding Shandon Castle ; 
whilst of the Irish and " the more than Irish " outlaws who beset the city gates, 
the MacCarthys of Muskerry, the O'Mahonys of Kerricurrihy, the Fitzgeralds 
of Cloyne and Inchiquin, and the Barretts of Ballincollig, were foremost, and 
ever on the alert to foray on the trading burghers. In 1571 Queen Elizabeth 
gave a silver collar of SS. to Maurice Roche, the mayor, for his services against 
the Earl of Desmond. Towards the close of her reign Elizabeth appointed Sir 
George Carew Lord President of Munster, and he took up his quarters in Shan- 
don Castle. On the death of the Queen, the mayor, supported by the corpora- 
tion and a large portion of the people, refused to proclaim her successor 
James I. The citizens attacked Shandon Castle, and demolished the Queen's 
Fort, but were forced to yield to the Lord Deputy Mountjoy, who marched 
into the city with a large force. In 1609 a new charter was granted, under which 
Dominick Roche was appointed mayor. In the war of the confederates, General 
Barry and Lord Muskerry (1642) were obliged to retreat from before its walls, 
but in 1644 it fell into their hands. In 1648 the Marquis of Ormond, lord- 
lieutenant, came to Cork, with the view of uniting loyal Protestants and Catholics 
in behalf of the King, and was well received. The next year it was surprised 
by the parliamentary forces. Cromwell himself sojourned here a few days, in 
1650, and in reply to a remonstrance against casting the church bells into ord- 
nance, made a joke which survives, to wit : that as gunpowder was invented by a 
priest, he thought the best use for bells was to convert them into canons. The 
Catholic inhabitants were so severely oppressed during the protectorate, that sev- 
eral leading families never recovered their previous position. T. Crofton Croker 
has collected a list of the " Cromwellian" families of influence and station which 
settled during this period. In 1667 William Penn, while managing his father's 
estates in the County Cork, was converted to the doctrines of the Quakers, by 
the preaching of Thomas Loe in the city ; and having been arrested at one of 
the meetings of the society, and declining to give bonds for " his good behavior," 
was, with eighteen others, committed to prison. This was Penn's first persecu- 
tion for his opinions, and instead of weakening, strengthened those views which 
culminated in the most practical toleration the world has perhaps ever seen. 



428 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



If Cork refused to proclaim James I., it was eleven days before London in 
announcing the restoration of Charles II.; and, on the occasion, "the ancient 
natives and inhabitants " petitioned for a restoration of their " estates and inter- 
ests," as well as their former "corporate rights and privileges," not only as " inno- 
cent Papists," but as " deserving subjects," but with little effect. The Roches 
were among the claimants, and under the Act of Settlement they were to be put 
in possession ; but the execution of this order was evaded, and many others 
similarly circumstanced were similarly treated. After James II. landed in Kin- 
sale, he proceeded to Cork, 
where he was well received, 
and, escorted by Franciscan 
friars, in their habits, attend- 
ed mass in the new chapel 
in the north abbey. This was 
of course followed by a demon- 
stration against the city by the 
forces of William III., com- 
manded by the Earl, afterward 
Duke of Marlborough, and the 
Duke of Wurtemberg. After 
five days' resolute defence, the 
governor, Roger MacElligot, 
was forced to yield. In the 
meantime the revocation of 
the edict of Nantes introduced 
into the city a number of 
French Protestant families, whose descendants have become identified with its 
progress. For a century after the Williamite war, the annals of Cork furnish lit- 
tle of general historical interest. Many local improvements, however, were made. 
A great part of the old walls were removed in 1 706 ; the wooden bridges were 
superseded by handsome works in stone in 1712 ; new jails were erected in 171 5 
and 1728. In 1719 Mr. Edward Webber built the Mardyke, an elevated prom- 
enade a mile long, westward, shaded by rows of elms, which is still an ornamental 
feature of the city; and in 1763 statutes were passed for the erecting of lamps, 
and securing the quays with walls or iron railings. In 1798 Lord Edward 
Fitzgerald found succor for a time near Sunday's Well. A Cork constituency 
was one of si.x represented by O'Connell in Parliament during the Repeal agita- 




From the Road to Cork. 



CORK. 



429 



tion. In the Young Ireland era, Meagher addressed the citizens on the occasion 

of forming a branch of the Irish Confederation, in September, 1847. After the 

French Revolution in 1848, a large meeting of citizens, on St. Patrick's Day, by 

resolution hailed "the hopes held out to all oppressed nationalities" by the 

French Republic. Meetings of citizens also approvingly addressed O'Brien, 

Mitchel, and Meagher, after their arrest by the gov- 

^ " ernment, and a dem- 

" ^, ^=sa^ onstration in their 

^ ^fe^ honor, in the form of 

_~ /" ^^^i^^s:y»B^P~\l=^ a procession 








Macrooin Castle. 



of trades and guilds, with bands and banners, through the principal streets, was 
made on the first of May, in 1848, which was addressed by Meagher. Cork and 



430 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

its neighborhood became still more actively identified with the Fenian move- 
ment ; and the capture of Captain William Mackey (Lomasney) in Corn Market 
Street, after a desperate armed struggle with overpowering numbers, adds an- 
other scene to the historical events of the city. The audacity of the Fenians at 
the commencement of 1868, under this young Irish-American, in the vicinity of 
Cork — at a time, too, when the Saturday Review was sadly admitting that the 
army and navy were not as reliable as was supposed — was illustrated by a popu- 
lar poet (T. D. Sullivan) to the popular air of this locality. 

" John Bull in wonder, 
With voice like thunder, 
Declares such plunder 

He must dislike ; 
They next may rowl in, 
And sack Haulbowline, , 
Or, on a sudden, 

Run off with Spike. 
His peace is vanished. 
His joys are banished. 
And gay or happy 

No more he'll be, 
Unless the Cork men. 
And wild New York men. 
Are sunk together 

Beneath the sea." 

Still more recently Cork gave expression to its national feeling by conferring 
the freedom of the city on the late Isaac Butt, M.P., founder of the Home 
Rule party, and by electing to Parliament Charles Stewart Parnell, the leader of 
the Land League. 

Having given this outline of its political history, a rapid survey of its topo- 
graphical features, in company with the author of a Rtin Through tlic So7ith of 
Ireland, and the sketcher of the Pictorial Guide, will enable us to view and 
appreciate the most noticeable thoroughfares, objects, buildings, and localities of 
the " beautiful citie." 

The principal street of Cork, named after Ireland's Patron Saint, is the most 
bustling one in the city, very irregularly built, but a fine, extensive, and pictur- 
esque one withal. In this street was placed, in 1865, Foley's beautiful statue of 
Ireland's great Christian philanthropist, the illustrious Father Mathew, who, as 
is well-known, was a native of Cork. The most imposing demonstration ever 
perhaps witnessed in the city was the ceremony of " unveiling" the statue by the 
mayor, John Francis Maguire, M.P. At the end of Patrick Street, to the left, 



CORK. 431 

is the Grand Parade ; and a handsome playing fountain, placed in the centre of 
the street, adds to the effect of this fine thoroughfare. An equestrian statue at 
the extreme end, forming the South Mall, is supposed to represent the second 
George, but as a work of art it possesses no particular merit. The South Mall, 
running at right angles east of the Parade, is well built. It is chiefly occupied 
by leading merchants and professional men, and in it are situated the Bank of 
Ireland, the Cork Library, the Imperial Hotel, the Commercial Buildings, the 
County Club-House, the News-Room, and other public offices and institutions. 
Great George's Street, a straight, regularly built thoroughfare, branches to the 
right (west) from " the Parade," and at the upper end of it are the Court 
Houses, a fine pile of buildings, with an imposing Corinthian portico. From 
Great George's Street, we pass to the Western Road ; to the left is the Convent 
of Mercy, built in the Elizabethan style, while a little farther off, in the same 
direction, the new cathedral arrests the attention. 

A turning to the right from this point conducts to the Mardyke, a beautiful 
avenue a mile in length, lined on either side with stately elms, which form a 
thick, umbrageous canopy overhead ; and but for the gas-lamps peeping from the 
boughs, as if to remind us of our close proximity to a populous city, one might, 
from the singing of birds, imagine himself miles in the country. The Mardyke, 
although still affording delightful shade and cool breeze in the warmest weather, 
has yielded somewhat, in a fashionable sense, to the more varied and aristo- 
cratic resources of Glanmire. 

The handsome building in the Tudor style, to the left, just over the south 
branch of the river. Is the Queen's College, designed by Sir Thomas Deane ; and 
the one adjoining it the county jail. To the right are the city jail, Blair's Castle, 
and the handsome villas of "peaceful Sunday's Well," with their hanging gar- 
dens descending to the water's edge. Now, near the end of the Mardyke, the 
pinnacles of the lunatic asylum, peering above the trees, with the bridge in the 
foreground, present a fine subject for the pencil of the artist. Crossing the 
bridge, and returning by the north branch of the river to Cork, we get, from 
time to time, some beautiful glimpses of the city as we approach It. Here, 
under Blair's Castle, we catch sight of the handsome Gothic Church of St. Vin- 
cent de Paul, and a little further on, at Wise's Hill, we get a fine bird's-eye view 
of the city, with Blackrock Castle, Father Mathew's Tower, and the "pleasant 
waters of the River Lee" wending their peaceful way to ocean. Leaving the 
North Gate Bridge to the right, and passing the Dominican Friary, on by Cam- 
den Quay, we approach Patrick's Bridge, one of the handsomest structures of 



432 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



its sort in tlie kingdom. This bridge was recently erected in place of an older 
one, which was swept away by the force of the current some few years ago, 
when, owing to heavy rains, the Lee overflowed its banks, destroying much 
valuable property. 

A once famous locality on the north side was, in its own vernacular, " de 

groves of de pool ; " but 
'-^y _ the black pool district is 

groveless ; its long rows 
of elms and poplars have 
long since disappeared ; 
its manufactures have 
ceased ; its looms are si- 
lent, and its once numer- 
ous and respectable in- 
habitants are replaced by 
a poor population. Yet 
this forsaken suburb has 
an abiding interest, for in 
Water Lane is the hum- 
ble house in which the 
great art-thinker and 
painter, James Barry, was 
born. The sketch pre- 
sents a graphic idea of 
the locality, and the 
should-be famous house 
is indicated by two fe- 
male figures at the door. 
The old cathedral of 
St. Finn - Barr suffered 
such injury in the siege 
of 1690, that it was re- 
placed in 1735 by a plain oblong pile, which had little of interest save the pointed 
doorway, recessed and richly moulded, and a few remains of the earlier structure. 
It had no pretensions to cathedral grandeur, and was in time demolished to give 
place to the present more picturesque and dignified edifice. The new cathedral, 
in addition to its beauty, as a substantial ornament and honor to the architectural 




Shandon Steeple. 



CORK. 



433 



i'^ (fe 




treasures of the city, is claimed also as " a splendid 
monument of the success of the voluntary principle 
in the disestablished church." It has been erected 
under the auspices of a most popular member of the 
Anglican episcopacy, Bishop Gregg, and it is the first 
new cathedral erected by the Protestants of Ireland. 
The general style, from the designs of Mr. Wm. Bur- 
gess, is the early French pointed, a transition from 
the purely Norman, combining much of the masslve- 
ness of the latter with the grace of the Gothic. A 
near approach justifies the admiration excited by a 

distant view, 
for the essen- 
tial strength 
and solemni- 
ty of the pile 




Myrtle Grove: Residence of Sir Walter Raleigh^ Yoiighal. 



434 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



are relieved by the abundance of external ornament. The characteristics of the 
interior walls are reproduced almost exactly outside ; and owing to the extraor- 
dinary massiveness of its relative parts, and the large proportion of its area occu- 
pied by piers, columns, etc., the accommodation is singularly small for the 
apparent extent of the building. The ancient doorway of the old cathedral has 
been preserved, and forms the dean's entrance in the boundary wall. In the 
southwest corner of the cemetery there formerly stood a Round Tower, alluded 
to by the chroniclers, built, according to tradition, without cement. A French 
description of it in 1644 gave its height as more than one hundred feet, with the 

entrance several feet above the ground. 
It was severely shaken by the cannon- 
ading in 1690 ; but, according to English 
travelers, in 1 748 some forty feet re- 
mained, which was subsequently taken 
down. As a proof of the antiquity of 
this hallowed spot, Mr. Windele, from 
whom much of our information has been 
collected and condensed, instances the 
fact* that in the litany of ^ngus Keli- 
deus, written in the ninth century, that 
holy man invokes " the aid of the seven- 
teen bishops and seven hundred servants of God, whose remains lie at Cork, 
with St. Barr and St. Nesan." 

The church of St. Anne, Shandon, owes its fame to the resonant and touch- 
ing lines of Father Prout, inspired by the association which childhood attaches 
to the long-remembered chimes of the parish steeple. It is a plain edifice, both 
within and without, and has been " happily likened to a pepper castor." It was 
built in 1722, and the steeple constructed out of the hewn limestone from the 
Franciscan Abbey, where James II. went to mass; and red sandstone from the 
ruins of Shandon Castle, which gave the name to the district {Shean-dun, old 
fort). The consequence is, that, owing to diversity in the building material, the 
sides of the tower do not harmonize in color, which has given rise to many jokes, 
not the least suggestive of which is that of Father Arthur O'Leary — 

" Party-colored, like the people, 

Red and white stands Shandon steeple." 




Ctonikch at Castle Mary. 



Hhtoiical and Jjescriptivc Notices of the City of Cork and its Vicinity, etc. By J. Windele: Cork, 1839. 



CORK. 



435 



Being on an eminence, the steeple is conspicuous from whatever side the trav- 
eler approaches the city, and is especially so in the picture from the river. It is 
the more noticeable, as there are few cities of the same prominence so destitute 
of steeples, spires and towers. The chime of bells in St. Anne's is inferior to 
that of St. Finn-Barr's, but it would be difficult and ungracious to attempt to 
make the world believe so after having throbbed 
to Prout's melodious memories of i— 




— I^si" -^7 



Old Signal Tower at Yoiisihal. 



" the bells of Shandon 

That sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters 

Of the river Lee." 

Queen's College, picturesquely situated on an 
eminence forty feet above the south branch of the 
river, stands on the site of Gill Abbey, a founda- 
tion of the seventh century. The college was 
opened in October, 1849, ^.nd its functions are 
discharged by a body of professors, whose schol- 
arship, ability and zeal would do credit, as 
Forbes says, "to any institution, however ancient 
or celebrated." It will not be deemed deprecia- 
tory of the majority of these learned men, to 

especially mention the presidents — the late Sir Robert Kane and Dr. William 
Kirby Sullivan, the eminent scientist, scholar and archaeologist, the value of 
whose great but congenial labor in translating Ebel's Celtic Studies from the 
German, and in editing O'Curry's lectures on The Manners and Customs of the 
A^iciejtt Irish, cannot be overestimated. 

On the south side also is Father Mathew's Cemetery, formerly the Botanic 
Garden, which will repay a visit. Here may be seen a reclining angel in white 
marble, by John Hoga^i, surmounting a sarcophagus of Portland stone. Return- 
ing from the cemetery, one of the finest of Hogan's works. The Dead Christ, 
may be seen at the South Chapel. The American visitor to the Cork Library 
on the South Mall will note with especial pleasure an alcove, designated by 
the name of a distinguished judicial dignitary of New York, in recognition of 
the s^ift of valuable volumes made to the institution.* 



* Hon. Geo. Shea, Chief-Justice of the Marine Court of the City of New York, whose intention, it is understood, 
is to malie continuous contributions of representative American works to the "Shea Alcove." 



436 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



On the trip to Cloyne from Olieenstown, if time permits, tlie visit should be 
extended by the way of the fine demesne of Castle Martyr and Killeagh to 
Youghal, at the mouth of the Blackwater. In the neighborhood of Cloyne, and 
between it and Rostellan Castle, one of the ancient seats of the Geraldines, is 
Mr. Longfield's residence, and demesne Castle Mary, where there is an interest- 
ing cromlech. The "altar stone" is fifteen feet long, eight feet wide, and from 

three to four 
feet in thick- 
ness. Near the 
great altar is a 
smaller one, of 
triangular form. 
Youghal, a 
sea-port town of 
remote antiqui- 
ty, having re- 
ceived a charter 
of incorporation 
from King John, 
in 1209, is pleas- 
antly situated at the base of a long and steep wooded hill, on a harbor of the 
same name, formed by the estuary of the Blackwater. 

There is a good road along the edge of the cliff to the upper strand, which, 
being firm and level, and the surroundings attractive, indicates the site for a 
prosperous watering-place. Close to the harbor entrance stands a tower, which 
tradition states was a light-house. This is perhaps the object M. Boullaye le 
Gouz alluded to in 1644, as " formerly part of a convent of nuns, of which there 
remains a tower called the Nunnery, upon which they used to light torches to 
enable vessels to come into harbor during the night." About the same time, 
Admiral Sir William Penn mentions that the governor of Youghal notified him 
that when he wanted to communicate with the squadron, " the signal should be 
a fire on the top of the abbey tower, near the point on the west side of the har- 
bor." The Fitzgeralds founded Dominican and Franciscan establishments in the 
thirteenth century, and the Collegiate Church was founded by Thomas, Earl of 
Desmond, in 1464. Youghal was the head-quarters of Oliver Cromwell while in 
the South ; and here he embarked for England, May 29, 1650. A strong- 
hold of the Desmonds, it was the scene of many sieges, conflicts, and burnings. 




Raleitrlt's House — Front Vii-w 




COLLEGIATE CHURCH RUINS-VOUGHAL. 



438 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Not a little of the interest attaching to Youghal arises from the connection of 
Sir Walter Raleigh with the town. He arrived in Ireland a captain of a levy, to 
support the Lord Deputy Gray, of Wilton, against the Earl of Desmond, in 
1579; and within seven years the soldier of fortune had conveyed to him by 
the crown 42,000 acres of Desmond's confiscated land, in Cork and Waterford. 

At this period, and for some years after- 
ward, Raleigh resided at Youghal. He 
was mayor in 1586, in which year it is 
supposed the first potatoes grown in 
the British Empire were planted here 
by him. The honor of first production 
is disputed as lying between a piece of 
land adjacent to the signal tower and 
the garden adjoining the house in 
which he lived. All reliable authori- 
ties agree in crediting Raleigh with 
the introduction of potatoes, the use- 
fulness of which as an article of food 
was an accidental discovery. It was 
supposed that the apple which grew 
on the stalk was the fruit to be gathered. This not proving palatable, the ven- 
ture was deemed a failure. Digging the ground to sow grain, the potatoes — 
largely increased — were discovered ; and from this first crop the general use of 
the potato was developed. At first they were a great rarity and luxury, and 
were recommended by the herbalist, Gerard, to "cunning confectioners" and 
" sugar bakers," for the framing of " delicate conserves" and "restorative sweet- 
meats," " no less toothsome, wholesome, and daintie, than of the flesh of 
quinces." They were " sopped in wine," and, for " the greater grace in eating," 
some did "boil them with prunes." In Trothis and Crcssida, Shakspere 
speaks of " Luxury with her potatoe finger." FalstafT cries, " Let the sky rain 
potatoes, and hail kissing comfits," and Ben Jonson, in one of his plays, refers to 
the luxuries " larks, sparrows and potatoe pies ! " 

The house in which Raleigh lived is still standing by the Collegiate Church, 
and is now known as Myrtle Grove, from the abundant growth of myrtles which 
almost cover it. It is of the character of the plain English manors of the 
Elizabethan period, and has undergone but little change. The walls are several 
feet thick, and the whole of the interior is wainscotted with Irish oak. The 



Raleii^/fs Yew Arbor. 



CORK. 



439 



L 



panels in the principal room are black as ebony, and there is an oaken chimney- 
piece, reaching from floor to ceiling, of grotesque figures and elaborate work- 
manship. In the garden is a group of four yew-trees, planted, it is. said, by 
Raleigh ; and here the adventurer dreamed his dreams — which were to end on 
a scaffold ; and here, too, he listened to Edmund Spenser, as the poet revealed 
to him the Faerie Queen, before other eyes 
or brains contemplated the vision of romance 
that haunted him # 

" amongst the coolly shade 

Of the green alders by the MuUa's shore." 



Desmond's Collegiate Church was appar- 
ently a magnificent structure, and one of the 
great educational establishments which flour- 
ished in the middle ages. In style it was 
ornamented Gothic, with a lofty tower on the 
northern side, and a nave, choir, and tran- 
septs. The nave and aisles have been fitted 
up, "in contempt of all rules and style," as a 
parish church ; but a large portion is a ruin. 
The church contains many curious and re- 
markable monuments, those of the Fitzger- 
alds, who founded it, and the Boyles, who 
bought the property from Raleigh, being 
most conspicuous. In the south transept, a monument to " the great earl " of 
Cork, built by himself, represents him recumbent, and in armor, a kneeling 
female figure on each side (his two wives), and underneath the figures of his 
nine children, with the dates of their respective births. A sepulchral niche in 
the north wall, richly carved and adorned with trefoil, is quite artistic. It is 
inscribed, Hie Jacct Thomas Fleming. 

The western outlet from Cork, whether by the northern or southern side of 
the Lee, presents many attractive and imposing features. From the road on the 
north side, which leads to Macroom, the river is in view for a considerable part 
of the way, adding its charming companionship to the beautiful scenery through 
which we pass, between Carrigrohane Castle and the churches of Inniscarra. 
The road approaches sufficiently to permit a visit to Castle Inch, Carrignamuck, 
and Carrigadroid castles, and winds into Macroom, through the romantic defile 
of Gleancoum, 




J licit I/ioiiim tlL)inn^ 



440 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Kilcrea Friary. 



The southern road from<lork commands for several miles the valley of the 
Lee, and its varied scene^of continuous beauty. The hili-sides are covered 
with villas, interspersed among groves and pastures of luxuriant verdure ; and 
the panoramic features of the north side are seen to much advantage from them. 
Carrigrohane Castle overhangs a precipitous crag, rising almost perpendicularly 

over the river. To the west, on 
a sudden bend of the river, is 
a deep pool, overhung by lime- 
stone precipices — Poul-an-Iffrm 
— the Hell hole, formerly said 
to have been inhabited by a 
fearful m.onster, half-horse, half- 
fish, the guardian of enchanted 
abodes and treasures beneath. 
From this point a fine view of 
the castle is obtained. Next on 
this route is the village, and, far- 
ther on, the Castle of Ballincol- 
lig, which is credited to the time 
of Edward III. It shared the fate of all the Munster castles, and was occupied 
and emptied by rival forces alternately. A mile beyond, the Lee, issuing from 
a deep defile, and overshadowed by the heathy hill of Garvagh, receives on the 
south the sparkling Bride. Following this river past the Ovens, we are 
attracted by the bell-tower of the Franciscan Friary — or abbey, as it is popu- 
larly called — of Kilcrea, above a clump of trees. In general, where an abbey 
lifts its head a village is not far distant. Here, however, there is a mere 
hamlet, from which an avenue of elms and ash leads to the Friary. A few fields 
from the Friary is the castle ; and both were built — the one for the protection 
of the other — by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry. According to Ware, a tomb ot 
the founder in the middle of the choir of the Friary, no longer visible, 
recorded that it was built in a.d. 1494. Both structures are situated on the 
rising bank of the river, and are highly interesting. The castle, the tower of 
which is seventy feet high, was inclosed by a moat ; and its bawn, a small 
fortified area of forty by fifty feet, was defended by curtain walls and two 
square vaulted towers, now in ruins. The Friary was divided into a convent 
and a church, the latter to the south of the former. The church is one hundred 
and fifty feet in length, and consists of nave, choir, and south transept. An 



CORK. 441 

arcade of three pointed arches, springing from short round columns of soUd 
masonry, with plain heavy mouldings at capital and base, separates the nave from 
a side aisle ; the third arch, opening into the transept, which is seventy feet long, 
and having, like the nave, an aisle at the west side, separated by two massive arches 
of similar character. The communication between the nave and choir is by the 
homely arch under the belfry tower, as shown in the sketch. It was fenced in 
by low walls of stone and earth, and, nearer to the building, by a structure of 
human bones. This wall, of which the remains were recently visible, was forty 
feet long, seven high, and six broad, — was formed of the bones of legs, arms, and 
vertebrae, the interstices being filled up with smaller bones. Collections of 
bones were not of infrequent occurrence in the ancient grave-yards of Munster. 
The collection of those at Kilcrea — made as will be seen through kindly rever- 
ence — was owing to the following circumstance : 

About ninety years ago, an aged woman of extremely weird aspect, and it is 
said of unsound mind, made her appearance in the vicinity of the abbey, and 
soon appropriated, and took up her abode in, an unclaimed and untenanted vault. 
She avoided intercourse with, and rarely spoke to, the people of the neighbor- 
hood. Yet this did not hinder them from occasionally supplying the recluse 
with cooked potatoes and a little milk. She was often seen to drink of the 
Bride that ripples by the ruin. Seldom visible in the day-time, when 
darkness and silence reigned she emerged from her charnel-house, and spent 
much of the night collecting the bones of past generations that lay up and down 
and about the abbey ; and these she arranged in the order described. The 
skulls she reserved for the small Gothic windows of the chancel and choirs, plac- 
ing the frontals toward the outer world ; and so compactly arranged were they, 
that the contents of one window remained intact to about fifteen years ago, 
when it yielded to a storm. The only surviving tradition relating to the mys- 
terious creature is that she " came from the North " — a locality suspiciously 
associated with much that is supernatural. Having dwelt in the tomb for two 
years — having a vague reputation for sanctity, and won general respect, for she 
always refused money, and scarcely ever went outside of the precincts of the 
ruin — she suddenly disappeared one Christmas morning, and was never heard 
of again. 

The church contains many graves, the tombs over the most ancient and histor- 
ical of which — the MacCarthy's — are defaced, or have been carried away for use else- 
where. In the same vault with one of the last of their descendants was interred, 
at his own request, a person in no wise connected with that line — the notorious 



442 



CORK. 





Roger O'Connor, an obstreperous combination of rebel, charlatan, fanatic, 
forayer, and subtle humbug. In the south-east angle of the nave is a low 
altar-tomb, with the inscription, 

" Lo ! Arthur Leary, generous, handsome, brave, 
Slain in his bloom, lies in this humble grave. 
Died May 4th, 1773, aged 26 years." 

O'Leary, a Catholic, had been an officer in the Hungarian service, and, returning 
to Ireland, fell a victim to the atrocity of the penal laws in having a horse which 
won a race. The loser, getting excited, claimed the winner for five pounds. 
" Papist, five pounds for your horse ! " which was the law. This led to a quar- 
rel and scuffie, from 
which O'Leary found 
"~""^ ^ _ it needful to escape. 

He was declared out- 
lawed on the spot, was 
hunted down and shot. 
Two months after, the 
instigator of the out- 
rage, a Mr. Morris, 
^ was fired at in his 
lodgings by O'Leary's 
younger brother, and 
received wounds from 
which he died. Young 
O'Leary fled, it is said, to America. 

Resuming the road which crosses the Bride at the Ovens, we reach Carrig-a- 
droid Castle, as the southern road, in turning toward Macroom, approaches the 
Lee. The castle, which was conspicuous in the Cromwellian wars, is built on a 
rock in the river, and is in a commanding position. It is said to have been erected 
by a MacCarthy to please a certain " Lady O'Carroll," who desired a residence 
in this wild and beautiful spot. That some love affair was at its foundation is 
likely, as tradition attributes its origin to the love of a lame and deformed peas- 
ant for his chieftain's daughter. Wandering by the river-side, hopeless and in 
despair, he saw and captured a leprecaun,* who not only revealed to him great 

* The fairy shoemaker, who has the secret of untold treasures, which are at the command of the person who keeps 
Ms eye on the elf until they are revealed. The leprecaun, however, is such an adept in whimsical cunning and chi- 
canery, that he, it may be said, invariably succeeds in diverting the vision of his captor, and thus releasing himself. 



Larriii-a-JJroid Castle. 



CORK. 



443 



riches, but changed his deformity to manly grace. The noble maid was wooed 
and won, and the castle built to hold the lovely treasure. It was a strong fortress 
in 1 641. The Catholic bishop of Ross had garrisoned it for Charles I. Brog- 
hill captured the bishop, and offered a free pardon if he procured the surrender 
of the castle. With this hope they brought him to the walls, when, instead ofj 
advising the Irish to yield, he boldly adjured them to hold out while one stonej 
lay upon another. Then, turning to his astounded guard, he yielded to fate, and 
was immediately hanged. But, alas! the garrison that stood out under its lion- 
hearted friend was circumvented into surrender by a weak invention of the 
enemy — nothing more or less than a display of wooden cannon. 

From this either road may be taken to Macroom, and in each case we cross 
the river Lee on the east or west of the Sullane river. Macroom is situated 

in a beautifully varied coun- . _ 

try, adorned by the extensive _ 

plantations of the Castle de- '^— 

mesne, and the neighboring 

villas, and enlivened and re- ? 

freshed by the various streams '^;^„^ 
flowing down the mountains 
lying to the west and north, 
the scenery on the latter being 
particularly bold and roman- " " ~ ^ ~ ^ "~ "' 

tic. The town rests on the ^''''''^' ^^''*'"'- 

banks of the Sullane, which rises ten miles westward in the Derrynasagart 
Mountains, and, after being swollen into considerable volume by the rills and 
streams from hills and glens, joins the Lee a mile and a half below. The town 
dates its origin to the eariiest Anglo-Norman period when a castle was built to 
guard the ford over the river, and the pass leading to the remote parts of Cork 
and Kerry. The outworks having disappeared, the castle adjoining the town (see 
p. 429) now consists of the keep, a huge mass densely covered with ivy which 
presents a striking appearance. In the troubles of 1641 it was burned : and in 
the Williamite war it was occupied alternately by the Jacobites and the followers 
of " Dutch Will." Since that time it has continued habitable, a fate, as Windele 
says, shared by few similar piles in the south of Ireland. In Macroom Castle, 
according to tradition, was born the famous Admiral, William Penn, in whose 
honor Pennsylvania was named when the Charter was conferred by Charies II. 
on his son the illustrious Quaker Colonizer. Although the town is doubtless 



r - 



444 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Shtp pool Castle 



coeval with the Castle, the name of the place Macroom (^MagJi-crom), the plain 
of Crom, the supreme idol of the ancient Irish, indicates its pre-Christian origin. 

When the bards survived the fall of 
^ " - — Druidism, Macroom was for ages their 

_ headquarters in West Munster, and 

the bardic conventions were held here, 
which it is claimed had a very bene- 
ficial effect over the adjacent country. 
As previously stated, up to the eight- 
eenth century, there were but two 
roads to the Capital of Munster ; the 
=^ ' "" southern one, communicating with the 
old and historical town and harbor 
of Kinsale. The leisurely tourist can 
reach this point by turning southward 
from Kilcrea, or directly from Cork, 
by Ballinhassig. It is about eighteen miles from the city, and the route from the 
latter to the 'sea lies through an undulating and hilly country, which seems, 
however, of little interest in contrast with the view presented on reaching the hill 
overlooking the town. Situated on and around the base and steep sides of Com- 
pass Hill, which forms the left bank 
of the Bandon river as it debouches 
into the harbor, the inland approach 
to Kinsale down the winding de- 
clivities presents the town, its beau- 
tiful environs, and the bay, to the 
best advantage. Here was once the 
most celebrated of southern har- 
bors ; but the proximity of Oueens- 
tbwn has thrown it into compar- 
ative obscurity. It is a place 
of great antiquity and historical 

interest, its name being derived from Ceann Saile — the head of the brine ; and 
its earliest charter from Edward III. The town is steep and quaint, many streets 
being quite inaccessible to vehicles. The harbor, two miles long, with an aver- 
age breadth of half a mile, is safe. Guarded by a bold rocky entrance, the 
shores decline inwardly, and though tame in character are not devoid of culti- 







CORK. 445 

vated beauty. Lord Kinsale, a title held by the De Courcey's who built a 
castle here soon after the Anglo-Norman occupation, is the premier baron of 
Ireland, and has the right of wearing his hat in the royal presence. Among the 
leading historical events were the landing of the Spaniards, under Don John de 
Aquila in 1601, and the subsequent disaster to the Irish and Spanish allies — in 




U I L f ij f aid tr; iJjUii 

which the English victors by siege and sickness lost 6,000 men ; the expulsion of 
the Irish in 1641 ; the arrival of a fleet under Prince Rupert and Prince Maurice in 
1649 — whose intentions were blocked by the parliamentary admirals Blake and 
Dean; the surrender of the town to Cromwell; and the landing of James II. 
and the French under Count Lauzun, in March, 1689. 



446 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Following up the river Bandon, which does not retain the woody surroundings 
to the extent celebrated in Spenser's verse, we find the ruins of Carrignacass 
and Ship-pool castles — the former built by the MacCarthys, and the latter by 
the Roches. Two miles further, amid a rich and beautiful country, and on the 
banks of the clear and navigable river, is Innishannon, formerly a walled town 
of importance. Pursuing our course, we find, near the confluence of the Brinny 
with the Bandon, the ruins of Downdaniel Castle. The town of Bandon, or 
Bandori-bridge as it was called, derived disgraceful notoriety from the generally 
credited belief that the corporation — in illustration of its bigoted founder's claim 
for royal favor on the ground that no " popish recusant or unconforming novelist" 
was admitted to live in it — had carved over the principal gate the inscription — 

" Jew, Turk, or Atheist 
May enter here, 
But not a Papist." * 

A succeeding generation erased this idiotic boast ; but still the population were 
in accord with the anti-religious views of the "great earl," who on other subjects 
was enterprising and tolerant. Smith, the historian of Cork, writing about the 
year T750, says, there was not in Bandon a "popish inhabitant, nor would the 
townsmen suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place, tliat being 
the music used formerly by the Irish in their wars." It was claimed that this was 
not " spleen," but a necessary means for the support of the " colony," composed of 
"strangers" and "Protestants." Fifty years after, however, the enterprise or 
usefulness of the " papists" appears to have placed them in a majority,f and in 
1 86 1 there were two Catholic churches and a convent within the terrible pre- 
cincts. Bandon boasts of having been the birthplace of two variously distinguished 
persons : Sir Richard Cox, Baronet, a very able, but Anglo-Irish, Irishman, who 
was Lord High Chancellor, and three times " one of the Lords Justices Gen- 
eral and General Governor of this Kingdom " — in other words, Viceroy ; and 
Dr. Nicholas Brady, author of Sermons, and a translation of the iEneid, but better 
known as the colleague of Nahum Tate in the English version of the Psalms. 

The scenery throughout the district is of a most charming character — the 
banks of the river, in their various abrupt turnings, forming striking escarpments^ 

* Dean Swift, it is said, added underneath — 

" Whoever wrote this, wrote it well, 
The same is written on the gates of Hell." 
f Newenham's View of Ireland says, in the year 1S07 Bandon contained 511 houses inhabited by Protestants,, 
and 2,305 inhabited by Catholics. 






Jif^^ ' 




^J^^' 


^^f^^K 


t^ll^ -*- ^;^^S?^- 


^ 


-,"^,To»^^^i 


_, - 




t'^" 



- rf^ 























'Vv^ 




BL.ARNEY CASTLE. 



450 ■ PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

The castle was built by Cormac MacCarthy, the Strong {Laidii-), fourth Lord 
Muskerry, in a.d. 1449. It stands in the midst of a fertile vale, on a limestone 
rock, at whose base flows the Comaun stream, which forms a junction with the 
Aw-Marteen near the village. The importance of the castle may be estimated by 
the strength of its walls, which are eighteen feet thick. In 1643 Lord Broghill 
took and held it for some time. After the Restoration Lord Muskerry was 
created Earl Clancarty, and his estates were restored to him. His son Donagh 
fought for James II., and Blarney sustained a formal siege against the army of 
William ; but a commanding battery on elevated ground compelled its evacua- 
tion. Then commenced its demolition. The conquerors destroyed the fortifica- 
tions and mansions and other buildings, which covered a space whose interior 
area contained eight acres. Little was left intact save the walls of the large 
tower, which rises about one hundred and twenty feet, and is by courtesy called 
Blarney Castle. With the fall of King James, Clancarty's estates were again con- 
fiscated, and their lord exiled. Blarney Castle and grounds then came Into the 
possession of Dean Davies, of Cork, from whom they were purchased by the 
HoUow-sword-blade Company of London. Chief-Justice Pyne held it for a 
short time, but in 1703 Sir James Jeffreys obtained the lands by purchase. 

The castle, or donjon keep of the ancient aggregation of structures, is a prom- 
inent feature from all sides in the scenery of the district. Attached to it is the 
well-wooded demesne, comprising a mirror-like lake and the " sweet Rock-close." 
But neither the stream, nor the lake, nor the castle, nor the village, picturesque 
as Cork men deem them, has earned such notoriety for " the groves" as a certain 
stone on the pinnacle of the tower. This stone is of world-wide repute, for, as 
Father Prout says, " it is endowed with the property of communicating to the 
happy tongue that comes in contact with its polished surface the gift of gentle, 
insinuating speech, with soft talk in all its ramifications, whether employed in 
vows and promises light as air, such as lead captive the female heart, or elaborate 
mystification of a grosser grain, such as may do for the House of Commons — 
all summed up and characterized by the mysterious term Blaj^ney" This defini- 
tion of " Blarney," given in Prout's Plea for Pilgrimages, was called forth by the 
visit of Sir Walter Scott in 1825. Having crossed the hills from Killarney, Scott 
gave a couple of days to the scenery of the Lee and the hospitalities of Cork, 
where honors similar to those offered in Dublin awaited him. Nor did he forget 
Blarney, in whose shades his party, including Maria Edgeworth and J. Gibson 
Lockhart, had a right mirthful picnic. The latter tells us that " Sir Walter 
scrambled up to the top of the castle, and kissed, with due faith and devotion. 



CORK. 451 

the famous Blarney Stone, one salute of which is said to emancipate the pilgrim 
from all future visitations of mauvaise honie." 

The southern and eastern sides of the tower are surmounted by machicolated 
parapets, resting on fourteen corbels, and having a corresponding number of 
opens or crenelles above. A number of small vaulted chambers, closets, and 
dormitories occupy the north side from base to summit, and communicate with a 
very steep, narrow, spiral stairway. The highest apartment in this range was 
the kitchen, in the very attic. Two of its sides are occupied by stone fireplaces 
of sufficient dimensions each to roast a whole ox. On the top the wall is broad 
enough to afford a good foot-path ; and that part of it where the famous stone 
may be seen or kissed, is held in its place by strong bars of iron. The outer 
wall of the turret extending beyond the sides mentioned, you can look down 
through the spaces between the supporting stones, and the sight on a windy day, 
when the ruins seem to quake under you, is by no means inspiring. The Blar- 
ney stone is clasped to the outer parapet by the irons referred to ; and, in order 
to reach it, you must lean out through the open space, between two and three 
feet in width. It is quite impossible to touch it with your lips without the 
assistance of a second party, who vigorously holds on to you in the rear to pre- 
vent you from diving out through the chasm beneath. 

A recent tourist briefly but suggestively indicates the dangers attending the 
accomplishment of the feat deemed so useful in the fields of gallantry and orato- 
rical politics. The ascent to the parapet, as well as the kissing, needs care, cour- 
age, and caution ; and the words of the tourist are not in this case to be taken for 
"blarney," as he failed to win the power to use it. " I climbed, and climbed, and 
climbed," he says. " Three or four times on the way to the turrets I might have 
dropped down from the doorless passages that open into the interior. There 
is not a door left in it from the foundation to the top. I was alone ; the wind 
whistled about my ears ; all the grass and fern tufts that have sprouted among 
the decaying mortar hissed spitefully. I cautiously crept to the edge of the wall, 
and while the sides of the old castle seemed to sway to and fro, I reached out to 
the parapet and touched the stone with my finger tips. This is as near as I ever 
got to it, but I have had enough. There is a stone down stairs on the ground 
floor which is far more convenient, and is usually substituted for the original. 
For more than four hundred years this castle has been the sole feature of im- 
portance in a very cheerless though lovely landscape. The square tower, with 
its machicolated battlement — all that is left of the castle — has been visited by 
pilgrims from every clime." 



452 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

At the base of the tower, on the northern side, are situated the prisons — two 
o-loomy holes, the inner one so pitch-dark and ill-ventilated that it must have 
been a horrible place of punishment. A little to the west of the donjon is the 
" Cave," a low, dark subterranean passage — " where no daylight enters, but cats 
and badgers are forever bred." In the immediate vicinity of the castle is situated 
the " Rock-close." This is an enclosed space of a few acres of ground, very 
tastefully laid out. Masses of rocks covered with lichens and heath-blossoms 
are skillfully arranged, so as to appear as if they were the natural productions 
of the soil. Shady retreats and arbors are so disposed as to command charming 
prospects of the surrounding objects. 

A flight of steps, roofed in by massive stones, lead down to a verdant " inch," 
or island, laved by the waters of the Comaun. This is known as the " Witch's 
Stairs," adjoining which is the " Witch's Kitchen," a fireplace cut out of the 
rock. On the inch stands a cromlech of immense size, luxuriantly mossed 
and lichened. This primitive altar "attests that the Druidical worshipers of Baal 
celebrated their ancient rites in Blarney at least a thousand years before the 
foundations of the castle were laid." 

About midway in the well-wooded park the lake spreads its glassy sheet of 
water. It is about half a mile in circumference, and is of considerable depth. 
The view over the lake, with the massive donjon looming over the woodlands at 
the distant side, especially of a calm evening, is of a very poetical character. A 
legend records that on fine summer nights a number of enchanted cows rise from 
the lake and pasture on its banks. While feeding they are milked by fairies. 
As happens usually with beings pertaining to the elf-world who visit our sphere, 
the cattle and milkmaids vanish at cock-crow. Tradition also asserts that the 
last scion of the Clancartys buried the family plate in the lake, and that the part 
of it in which the treasure is hidden is never to be divulged until one of the race 
regains the ancient inheritance. 

A mile distant from Blarney is the noted hydropathic establishment founded 
some forty years ago by the late Dr. Barter, at St. Ann's, which is w^orthy of a 
visit. 

In the northern part of the county. Mallow and Fermoy are prominent 
towns, both situated on the glorious Blackwater. Between them, and on the left 
bank of the river, are the extensive ruins of Bridgetown, a foundation of the 
Roches of the twelfth century. On the right side of the river, about five miles 
from Mallow, is Monanimy Castle, which possesses an interest to which allusion 
will be made further on. Mallow is directly north of Blarney, on the Great 



CORK. 



455 



'whose tomb survives in the ruins of the abbey. The Irish name of the place 
Avas Killnemullagh, which has been recorded by Spenser in Colin Cloufs Come 

Home Againe : 

" MuUa, the daughter of old Mole, so hight 

The niniph, which of that water course has charge 
That, springing out of Mole, doth run downe right 

To Buttevant, where, spreading forth at large, 
It giveth name unto that auncient cittie. 
Which KilnemuUah cleped is of old; 
Whose ragged ruines breed great ruth and pittie 
To travailers which it from far behold." 

• In the heart of a beautiful country, pleasantly situated on the Av^rbeg— the 
" Mulla " of Spenser — is the small town of 
Doneraile, which, with Buttevant, forms on 
the map the base of a triangle, of which 
Kilcolman, about two miles distant from 
either, is the apex. Kilcolman must ever 
remain a classic spot, for not only was it 
for years the residence of one of the great- 
est of poets in the English tongue, but 
here was mainly composed the poem upon 
Avhich rests his fame — T/ie Faerie Qtteene ; 
and in that poem and others the scenery 
of the surrounding country, the mountains, 
vales, and streams are woven into the pictu- 
resque allegories of his theme. In Book IV., Canto XI., of the former, celebrat- 
ing the wedding of the Thames and Medway, an allegorical account of the birth 
of the Suir, Nore, and Barrow is given ; and the principal rivers are indicated by 
an epithet or line, which, from its poetical scope, as well as local truth, has not 
been surpassed or supplanted to this day. For instance, the " sandy Slane " 
(Slaney), the "pleasant Boyne," the "fishy fruitful Bann," the "swift Awniduff " 
(Blackwater), the " spacious Shannon, spreading like a sea," the " gentle Suir," 
the " goodly Barrow " ; 

" There also was the wide embayed Mayre (Kenmare) ; 
The pleasant Bandon, crowned with many a wood ; 
The spreading Lee, that, like an island fayre, 
Encloseth Corke with his divided flood." 




Tomb of De Barry. 



Spenser went to Ireland as Secretary to the Lord Deputy, Lord Grey of 



456 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Wilton, in 1580. In Marcli following he obtained the, perhaps additional, office- 
of a clerkship in the Irish Court of Chancery ; and in the same year, from the 
Queen, the grant of a lease of the abbey, castle, and manor of Enniscorthj', in 
Wexford, which he conveyed, December 9th, 1581, to Richard Synot. Lord 
Grey was recalled in 1582; but Spenser remained in Ireland and retained his. 




Mallow Castle. 

office in the Court of Chancery until June, 1588, when he was appointed Clerk 
of the Council of Munster. He received a grant of Kilcolman and other lands, 
amounting to 3,028 acres of Desmond's confiscated estates ; and was married 
in Cork, in 1594, to an Irish girl named Elizabeth, of whose family and station 
we know nothing ; but of whose personal charms we have devoted descriptions,* 
as of the " inward beauty " of her spirit, where dwelt — ■ 



* See. The Faerie Queene, Book VI., Canto X. : the sonnets entitled ..//«ore///, and the Jlarriage Song Epitha~ 
laniion. 




KH-COLMAN CASTLE. 



458 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



" Sweet Love, and constant Chastity, 

Unspotted Fayth and comely womanhood, 
Regard of Honor, and Mild Modesty." 

At Kilcolman, which stood in a most pleasant and romantic situation on the 
banks of a fine lake, Spenser received his friend Raleigh, and the gifted " under- 
takers " of English colonization on Irish soil that did not belong to them, con- 
gratulated each other on a future of fortune. Raleigh found his in the vindic- 
tive meanness of his sovereign, which sent him to the scaffold. Spenser's worldly- 
success was equally short lived. One of the plunderers who profited by the 
spoil of the Geraldine, and whose sweet poetry has earned for him a fame for 
_ _ gentleness his political writings scarcely merit, 

_ he has, in terse and picturesque language, 

chronicled the horrors which made his for- 
tune.''" He was a victim of similar retaliatory 
horrors. He was the advocate of unsparing 
force against the Irish. When the success of 
Hugh O'Neil, in Ulster, inspired the Munster 
chiefs to confederate in 1598, he was the victim 
of it at their hands. Kilcolman was sacked 
and burned. Spenser and his wife barely es- 
caped, while an infant son perished in the 
flames. He fled to England, and survived his 
misfortunes, in indigence, but three months. 
The political adventurer was hunted from Kil- 
colman : the poet found a resting-place in Westminster Abbey. He left four 
children, the eldest of whom, Sylvanus, married a daughter of Nagle, of 
Monanimy, who, on her mother's side, represented the Roches of Ballyhooly. 
Both the Nagles and Roches were Roman Catholic families, and this connection 
had an important influence on the fate of the Spensers. The mother of Ed- 
mund Burke, Miss Nagle, of Castletown-Roche, was grandniece to Sylvanus 
Spenser's wife, and it is suggested that perhaps " the great orator derived his 
Christian name in this way from the great poet." f Although born in Dublin, 
Burke's early boyhood is associated with Castletown-Roche, not far distant 
from Monanimy ; here the Latin grammar was first placed in his hands by 

* T. MacNevin. Confiscation of Ulster, etc. , Chap. IV. 

f See Craik's Spenser and his Poetry. A comprehensive and impartial estimate of Spenser may be found in the 
Poetical Works, edited and annotated by Francis S. Child. 5 vols. Boston. 




The Pass of Keim-an-eigh. 



CORK. 



459 




the village schoolmaster, O'Halloran, who lived to boast of his illustrious 
pupil. 

The tourist through Cork has generally in view a visit to the lakes of Kil- 
larney, and he can turn westward from Cork City by way of Macroom, from 
Blarney, or from Mallow. On either route he will reach Mill Street, roman- 
tically situated at the head of the glen, between the Boghra and Caherbarna 
Mountains. 

From Macroom the — --s. 

romantic lake of Gou- 

gane Barra, the wild ^ -^ji_ 

Pass of Keim-an-eigh, 
and the surrounding 
scenery, may be explor- 
ed. To do so the trav- 
eler must diverge south- 
ward to the village of 
Inchageela. At a mile 
distance, Lake AUua, an 
enlargement of the Lee, 
about three miles in 
length, is reached ; after 
winding about the in- 
tricate northern margin 
of which we come with 
sudden effect on Gou- 
gane Barra. It occu- 
pies a deep circular dell in the Sheehy Mountains, environed almost by perpen- 
dicular bleached cliffs, behind which the peaks rise to a height of fourteen hun- 
dred feet, and cast a perpetual gloom and spirit of loneliness over the scene. 
Standing within this amphitheatre of hills, the beholder feels severed from the 
world, realizing somewhat the idea of the old historian, that "if a person were 
carried into it blindfolded, it would seem almost impossible, without the wings 
of an eagle, to get out." The wild gloom of the locality, however, is relieved 
by one object of inviting beauty — the green little island, with its graceful ash 
trees and old church ruins. The mountains sparkle with streams — elfin wander- 
ers in summer, and foaming cascades in winter — recalling the inspiration of the 
poet Callanan : 






Gous'ane Barra. 



460 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



' There is a green island in lone Gougane Barra, 
Where AUua of songs rushes forth like an arrow ; 
In deep-valley 'd Desmond, a thousand wild fountains 
Come down to that lake, from their home in the mountains. 



' And its zone of dark hills— oh ! to see them all bright'ning, 
When the tempest flings out its red banner of lightning, 
And the waters come down 'mid the thunders' deep rattle. 
Like clans from their hills, at the voice of the battle ; 
And brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming. 
And wildly from Mailoc the eagles are screaming : 
Oh, w-here is the dwelling, in valley or highland, 
So meet for a bard as that lone little island ! " 



In this meet home for bard, St. Fin Bar had his hermitage, before he 
founded the cathedral in Cork ; and the spirit of soUtary devotion could not 

have chosen a 
:j^^g^:j^;7--'f; _;%;-, more appropriate 

^^'7"°'='^'°"?!^^"^^ " ^ " "* ~ and awe-inspiring 

:^^ spot. 

_ The Pass of 

__^ Keim-an-eigh — 

^^ the path of the 

deer — is a narrow 
ravine. Though 
a mile in length, 
^^ at no one. spot 
can many yards' 
distance be seen 
at either side. 
Doheny, in the 
narrative of his 

wanderings while outlawed in '48, truly says: "The road seems to lose itself 
every moment in the mountain ; but, as you proceed, you find a new avenue of 
escape, and a more fantastic group of impending rocks. * * Though that pass," 
he adds, "had been recently immortalized in the unequalled verses of Dennis 
Florence MacCarthy, and I have learned to love a spot whose echoes of min- 
strelsy, so soft and passionate, had found a local habitation, I was ignorant of its 




T/ie Green Little Island, Gougane Barra 



CORK. 



461 



locality, and entirely unprepared for the surpassing grandeur of the scene which, 
in the full blaze of a harvest moon, burst upon my view."* 





/ 



Glengariff can be 
reached by pursuing 
a soutli-western route 
from Gougane Barra, 
or by following either 
of two roads from 
-'^ Bandon to Bantry ; 
^ the northern by Dun- 
manway and Drumda- 
league; and the south- 
ern, and most pictur- 
esque, by Clonakilly, 
Ross - Carberry, and 
Skibbereen. From 
Bandon to Dunman- 
way, the road keeps 
along the left bank of Bandon River, through the valley which lies between 



^^%#*"1j - 



Views at Glengariff. 



* The Felon's Track; a Narrative of '48, etc., by Michael Doheny, Chap. IX. The poem by MacCarthy, here 
alluded to, is entitled, Alice and Una, a Tale of Keim-an-eigh. 



462 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



these towns. The surrounding country is of the same hilly character as that 
about Macroom and Bandon, but increasing in magnitude and wildness as we 
approach the mountains that guard Bantry Bay, and protect the inland country 
from the winds and waves of the Atlantic. Dunmanway was founded by Sir 
Richard Cox ; but of the stately mansion erected by him nothing remains save 
the kitchen. The town is almost surrounded by rocky hills, which unite with 
the mountain ranges, and is refreshed by the streams which join the Bandon 
River. Immediately behind is Mount Gunnery, seven hundred and fifty-seven 
feet high ; and on the north is the range which unites with the Sheehy Moun- 
tains in the west, and separates the valley of the Bandon from that of the Lee — 
the sources of these rivers being only nine miles apart, and both issuing from 

the Sheehy Mountains. 

.^^^saME===«_ The road generally trav- 

3^_ eled is that by Drumda- 

^ ■'^^Kt league, a little west of 

■^ 3P^^^ which it joins the coast 

^JC i;^;; road, which turns north- 

~ r'^/' . ward at Skibbereen. The 

latter is situated on the 
Hen, which is navigable 
for vessels of two hundred 
tons to Old Court, within 
two miles of the town. 
Skibbereen suffered ter- 
ribly during the great 
famine of '46-48, but 
has recovered.* Not far from it is a remarkable salt-water lake. Lough Ine, 
surrounded by precipitous hills, variously bare and wooded. In the centre is a 
long island, on which are the ruins of one of the castles of the O'Driscolls. 
The view is sketched from a graveyard, exclusively devoted to the interment of 
children, in which was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. 

In Roaring Water Bay there are numerous islands, and at the head of one of 
the inlets is the village of Skull, also sadly historical from the desolating visita- 
tions of the great famine alluded to. It stands at the foot of Mount Gabriel, 




* Skibbereen is of modern date. Formerly Baltimore was the port for Skibbereen, Castlehaven, Skull, etc., and 
the custom-house was at Castle Townsend ; but in the ofTicial returns Skibbereen is now denominated the port, and the 
trade of all the others included in it. See Marmion's Maritime Ports, p. 514. 



CORK. 463 

which rises over the sea one thousand three hundred and fifty-nine feet. The 
parish — a wild and mountainous region, full of rocky headlands, gorges, and 
ravines — is sixteen miles long and six miles broad. "If you have never been in 
the southwest district of Ireland," says Caesar Otway, " if you have not seen 
those great bulwarks that stand as redoubts to the continent of Europe against 
the force of the great ocean, you cannot form, from seeing English hills, or even 
Welsh or Wicklow mountains, an idea of these outworks of Ireland. They 
seem as if the deluge had washed them bare to the very bone — no bog, no soil, 
no verdure on them. Oh ! what a noble expanse, as east and west we turn our 




Crookhaven Harbor. 

eye coastward. To the right, Baltimore ; to the extreme left, Crookhaven and 
the Mizenhead, and studded along rows — seagirt isles 

" ' That like to rich and various gems, inlay 
The unadorned bosom of the deep.'" 

Crookhaven is the remotest village in this district, at the head of the long 
inlet of that name, which lies in a direction almost parallel to that of the coast, 
being bounded on one side by mountains, and on the other by a peninsula of 
low rocks, which protects it from the ocean. Of the islands in Roaring Water 



464 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Crookliavcn, looking in/and. 



Bay, the best known is Cape Clear, geographically recognized as the most south- 
ern point of Ireland ; although the Fastnet Rock, on which there is a light, is 
still farther south. Cape Clear, the Insula Sancta Clara of ancient ecclesiastical 
writers, is three miles long, one mile wide, and contains nearly eleven hundred 

acres, four-fifths 

_ ^^^3^,^ - of which is un- 

_-~isiffi^^S^: • -^Tt:^ _„ j" :- cultivated. The 

_ ^ inhabitants are 

in a very primi- 

-t';' ^1^ t i V e condition. 

. Ssgr The scenery is 

^^_^ -^^ romantic, and on 

the southern side 
presents a steep 
inaccessible cliff 
to the Atlantic. Here is a light-house, with a revolving light of twenty-one 
lamps, seven of which become visible every two minutes, and are distinguish- 
able in clear weather from a distance of twenty-eight nautical miles. On the 
southwest, by the sea, are the ruins of Dunanore Castle, or the Golden Fort, 
built by the O'Drlscolls ; and near the little harbor the prostrate remains of St. 
Keevan's Church. The castle is in a position at once perilous and pictur- 
esque. " When 
I got to the top 
of the castle," 
says Dr. Smith, 
the historian of 
Cork, " and be- 
held the ocean 
roaring round 
me, I heartily 
wished to be 
again on the mainland." 

Sherkin Island, or Innisherkin, lies between Cape Clear and the mainland, 
from which It is separated by a channel of only a quarter of a mile, forming 
the western side of Baltimore harbor. It is about the same extent as Cape 
Clear, but is cultivated, and contains slate quarries, which are extensively 
worked. The abbey ruins, close to the harbor, are seen with fine effect from 




Dunanore Castle, Cape Clear. 



CORK. 



465 




Abbey Ruhis, Innisherkin. 



Baltimore; and near by, on a creek, is a ruined castle of the O'DriscoUs, which 
•defended the harbor. 

The best views of this interesting coast are from the sea ; but the elevated 
grounds of Cape Clear com- 
mand a distinct prospect for 

upwards of fifty miles, from - - ^-^-i^f ^F^tew 

Mizenhead, at the mouth of "* 

Dunmanus Bay, to the old "^ 

head of Kinsale. The shore 
is everywhere extremely 
bold, though the great height 
of the mountains to the 
west of the cape gives an 
appearance of comparative 
lameness to the coast in an 
opposite direction. Dun- 
manus Bay, Bantry Bay, Kenmare River, and the great estuaries of this coast, 
are all bounded by chains of mountains, which run nearly parallel to each other 
in a southwesterly direction, and terminate in lofty capes. Mizenhead, the first 
of these which meets the eye of the spectator at Cape Clear, obstructs — owing 
to its great elevation — the prospect of the more distant points ; but many of the 

mountains of Kerry are plain- 
ly observable above it. 

From Crookhaven we can 
cross the peninsula of Kil- 
more, which runs out to Mizen- 
head, and reach Dunmanus Bay 
which in turn is separated by 
another tongue of land from 
Bantry Bay ; and from the 
head of Dunmanus Bay the 
town of Bantry is only dis- 
tant six miles. To the west 
of Crookhaven the country 
is characteristically wild and 
rocky, and without any unusual interest until Dunmanus Bay opens to the view — • 
its first appearance resembling that of a spacious lake surrounded with moun- 




Bantry Bay. 



466 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



tains ; nor is the nature of the place fully disclosed until, on approaching the 
shore, the Atlantic Ocean is discovered between the lofty capes which guard the 
entrance to the bay. Crossing the mountains which bound it on the west, the 
eye has already lost sight of Dunmanus, when a sudden prospect of Bantry 
Bay bursts upon it, which is still more spacious, and bordered by mountains of 
greater elevation. The scenery of each of the great estuaries is distinguished 
by so many noble features, that, as Weld says, it would be difficult to determine 
which is entitled to pre-eminence. Bantry Bay, however, possesses the advan- 
tage of being adorned with a considerable extent of wood. Dunmanus Bay is 




Entrance to Bantry. — From Lord Bantry^s Swan Lake. 



fifteen miles long ; Bantry Bay over twenty-one miles long, and from two and a 
half to five miles wide ; and the peninsular ridge separating these bays is finely- 
terminated by Sheepshead, which is four hundred and five feet high, with a grad- 
ual rise inland to a height of eleven hundred feet. 

Bantry Bay — the Inver Sciene of the ancients — is indeed a magnificent sheet 
of water, landlocked by gigantic abrupt headlands ; and from favorable points of 
view presents some of the noblest prospects afforded in the whole country. No 
harbor in the British empire, says the author of the Handbook of Ireland, presents 
such combinations of land and sea scenery. Nothing in England or Ireland is at 



CORK. 



407 




The Harbor of BereJiaveti. 



all comparable to it. Even grand and wild Lough Swilly must yield the palm 
for mountain outline, expanse of water, genial climate, and luxuriant wood ; for 
Bantry Bay contains the 

marvellously beautiful , ^,;_-^_ jj^^^^^- . 

Glengariff. On the sum- —3,^--- - - ^-^ 'i^.^ 

mit of the road, from ,_ _— -'E^sSyiV 

Dunmanus to the town jj _ - ^- 

of Bantry, a gorgeous -% 

panorama is before you. TZTl _- 

To the northeast, in the 
far blue distance, rises 
Mangerton, dark, lofty, 
and massive ; to the left 
of it M a g i 1 1 i c u d d y's 
Reeks, from whose sum- 
mit we have looked down 
upon the white sunlit 
clouds resting upon its bosom. Nearer, on the northwest, Hungry Mountain 
rises like an embattled wall before you, and from its height falls the cataract of 
Adrigool, in a perpendicular column of eight hundred feet ;'"' and, nearer still, fac- 
ing the north, white and crystal-like, rises the Sugar-Loaf Mountain. Immediately 

under your feet is the inner 
harbor of Bantry, protected 
from the outer bay by the 
green island of Whiddy ; the 
placid water studded with isl- 
ands. Bere Island, six miles 
long, near the mouth, forms 
the capacious and safe harbor 
of Berehaven. Whiddy Isl- 
and, near the town, contains 
the modern forts, and an old 
The House of Rocks. castle of the O'Sullivans. 




* The overflowing waters of several small lakes, near the summit of this mountain, are precipitated from an eleva- 
tion of two thousand feet, down a mural cliff of vast height, unimpeded by the rocky obstructions which are opposed 
to its descent nearer to the bottom of the fall, giving the effect of both fall and cataract, and the spectacle is plainly 
seen from the town of Bantry, on the opposite coast, a distance of seventeen miles. G. N. Wright, M. A. 



468 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Bantry is historically famous in connection with the first expedition of the 
French, which had been procured by Wolfe Tone for the liberation of Ireland. 

The magnificent Glengariff is nearly opposite Whiddy Island, distant from 
Bantry town ten miles by land, and seven by water across the bay. On the 
land route, some years ago, Mr. Hall came upon a curious habitation formed by 
rocks, which had fallen in such a manner as to form an enclosed chamber, liter- 
ally a house of rocks, which was utilized as a dwelling by a peasant family. 

Glengariff merits all the praise which has been lavished upon it. Bartlett 
the artist, thought that no scene, in all the concentrated beauties of Killarney, 
can vie in sublimity of character, greatness of effect, in the softer graces of 
the waving wood, or in the wilder rudeness of the mountain aspect, with that 




At Glengariff. 

represented in the steel engraving. It is situated at the head of an inlet, run- 
ning off the northwest extremity of Bantry Bay, and abruptly turning and pene- 
trating the Caha Mountains for about four miles ; the greatest width of the glen 
being a mile. It seems a noble lake, adorned with picturesque islands of various 
forms, some merely denuded rocks, others crowned with gnarled oak, pensile 
oak, and flowering arbutus. On every side the waters lave the mountain's foot, 
except now and then a gentle slope, spreading into wood and lawn, is broken at 
moderate distances by verdant or rugged dells, through which steal or flash the 
purest streams. Many rivers fall into the mountain basin, amongst which the 
Glengariff rolls its course through various scenes of enchantment. Rising at 
the base of the lofty Eagle's Nest, and winding round Lord Bantry's shooting 
lodge, it passes under Cromwell's Bridge, and finally falls down a precipice of 
twenty feet into the sea. 





CROMWELL'S BRIDGE, QLENGARIFF. 



470 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




What chiefly impresses the mind at Glengariff is the deep conviction, that 
there is no mere pleasing allusion of art in all you behold — that it is Nature, 
such as she is, in all her wildness and beauty. One of the most comprehensive 

prospects in the vicin- 
ity is to be had from 
a woody steep on the 
old Berehaven Road, 
north of Cromwell's 
Bridge. The eye 
ranges over it without 
control, and it is im- 
possible to put it with- 
in the limits of a sketch. 
The artist has to con- 
fine himself to the sur- 
roun dings of the 
bridge, with Hungry 
Hill looming up in 
towering grandeur, its 
peak one huge mass 
of naked rock. 

Tourists are com- 
pelled into comparison 
of this glorious glen 
with Killarney ; but 
in fact the scenes are 
separate illustrations 
of the same region. 
Killarney is not very 
far from the Cork 
border ; and in leav- 
ing the latter we pass 
through a tunnel in 




From Glengariff to Killarney. 



the mountains to reach Kerry, and .-ompare its splendors with those we have 
left behind. 




Coi>jTight, 16'Sj by Thomas .Kelly, Jfew i'orlc 



^ M 



CO.o"" <^-I-CTr4_^, 




J'o^ ffjl^^' 



Copyright, lS80,ty Itomas JvL'lljvNew York, 



Russell 1^ StruUiers,lCii^'':i 



KING'S COUNTY. 




King's County is chiefly noted for the large portion of the bog of Allen 
within its boundary, and the extensive ruins of Clonmacnoise. To gain a o-ood 
idea of the bog, the tourist 

should drive through it from - — 

Birr or Parsonstown, north- -,;,?fc 

ward to Ferbane, leaving the 
town of Banagher to the 
right on the bank of the 
Shannon. Near Banagher is 
Garry Castle, a stronghold of 
the MacCoghlans, and a sam- 
ple of the old fabrics to be 
met throughout the county. 
The road through the bog is 
of considerable elevation, and 
presents on either side traces 
of the buried forest that once 
covered the country, stumps 

of trees standing in all positions, preserved from decay by the antiseptic quality 
of the water. Of this bog-oak, fancy furniture, ornaments, and articles for the 
setting of jewelry are fashioned. The rivers Barrow, Boyne, and Brosna have 
their source in the bog. Ferbane, on the banks of the latter, is a convenient place 
from which to visit Clonmacnoise. The visitor to Athlone can drive southward 
twelve miles to the ruins, which, situated on a series of undulating and desolate- 
looking hills on the eastern bank of the Shannon, present a remarkable and 
solemn effect. They consist of two round towers, remains of churches and castles, 
and a cemetery. On the first hillock are the sunken walls of an extensive build- 
ing ; on another is the great round tower — O'Rourke's — roofless, but swathed 
about the centre with a deep raiment of ivy. Farther inland is the second — 
McCarthy's — round tower ; and behind it McDermott's Church, with its splen- 
did arched and carved portal. The sculptured cross which stands close by is 
471 




Garty Castle. 



472 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



deemed, if not equal to that at Monasterboice, only second to it in Ireland. 
The massive castle, it would seem, must have been rent asunder by some explo- 
sion, so fantastic are the forms and positions into which the remains have been 
cast. Some parts lie, in masses larger than human habitations, in the fosse. 
Others lie in vast heaps in the ballium, or court-yard ; an immense curtain wall, 
ten feet thick, undermined, lies at an angle of forty-five degrees, on half a foot of 
its thickness, and presents at a distance a strikingly remarkable hanging ruin. So 
preponderating is the proportion of mortar to the rounded pebble stones in the 
material of this building, that Otway concluded it was erected by forming a case- 
work of wood, within which the stones were thrown at random, and over which a 

grouting mortar was poured. 
This having settled and so- 
lidified, the exterior case- 
work was removed. "No 
breccia, no pudding-stone 
can be harder than the com- 
position ; it would be as 
easy to break the limestone 
pebbles as to separate the 
mortar." "The Nun's 
Church " is a beautiful tem- 
ple, and " the sculptured 
heads and other ornaments of the door arches and windows are wonders and 
puzzles of ancient Irish architecture." 

The name of Clonmacnoise indicates that it was the scholastic retreat for 
the sons of nobles. It was granted by the ard-righ Dermot MacKerbeol to 
St. Kiaran, who founded a seat of learning there in a.d. 548. St. Colcha, its 
president, visiting the continent in 791, received from Charlemagne a present of 
fifty shekels. It became an abbey of canons regular of St. Augustine, and was 
amazingly enriched by kings and princes. Its landed property was so great, and 
the monasteries subject to it so numerous, that, as Archdall says : " Almost half 
of Ireland was said to be within the bounds of Clonmacnoise." It was but too 
tempting to the Danes, by whom, it was several times pillaged. 

King's County is distinguished as the birthplace and residence of the emi- 
nent astronomer the Earl of Rosse, in front of whose castle at Birr is the mon- 
ster telescope known to the world of science. 




ClonmaC7ioise Cross and Ruins. 



ARMAGH. 





Armagh, 



The inland county of Armagh is more distinguished in an historical than a 
picturesque aspect, although it has Lough Neagh on the north, Slievegullion on 
the southwest, and a hilly surface between. The name Ard-Macha denotes an 

473 




474 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

elevated plain or field, and no doubt extended to the surrounding country from 
the hill on which the venerable city of Armagh was founded by St. Patrick, 
a fact which, although the situation is not central, nor the population large, con- 
ferred on it the dignity of being the primatial see of Ireland. The cathedral 
and various ecclesiastical edifices having been built, schools and colleges were 
also established here, which became famous throughout Europe, and are said, 
"upon safe authority," says Hall, "to have furnished England with its earliest 
teachers — having been, in fact, the small spring which supplied the healing waters 
of Christianity to the other British Isles." In Stuart's History of Armagh will 
be found references to numerous authorities illustrating the extent and celebrity 
of those schools, to which numbers of foreign students flocked, and were 

"gratuitously furnished with lodging, 
.iia,.^,. ^ diet, clothes, and books." During the 

^jWJI^HHHHHk wars of the Elizabethan era most of the 

, / diocesan records m Ulster were lost, a 

calamity the Cathedral of Armagh for- 
tunately escaped, although it was con- 
tinually involved in the misfortunes 
which visited the city, which, from the 
ninth to the twelfth century, was de- 
stroyed seventeen times. 

The city, which covers the sides of a 
, , ,, ^ , , , , r ■ „ steep hill, standing in the centre of a 

Interior of the old Cat hear at 'before its Restora- ° 

tion. fertile valley, is exceedingly interesting 

from every side of approach. From the 
solidity of its structures and pavements, it is esteemed the best built and best 
managed inland town in Ireland. The venerable cathedral, on the site of St. 
Patrick's foundation, stands on the top of the hill in a most commanding posi- 
tion ; has been frequently re-edified, and owes much to the munificence of Pri- 
mate Robinson, afterward Lord Rokeby, in the last century, and of Primate Lord 
John G. Beresford, who was promoted to Armagh in June, 1822. The latter 
contributed ;^30,ooo to the work of restoration, which was entrusted to Mr. Cot- 
tingham, the architect who established his reputation by the restoration of 
Rochester Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Albans, in England. " No ecclesi- 
astical structure in Great Britain, of similar extent," said Hall, " surpasses it in 
grace and beauty;" and Mr. Walker, writing in 1871, said it was the grandest 
feature in the picture, until "it was transcended by the magnificent Catholic 



ARMAGH. 



47S 



cathedral, commenced by Primate Crolly, a quarter of a century ago, and just 
now finished." The latter stands on elevated ground, adjacent to the town, and 
is really one of the grandest and most elaborately decorated edifices in the 
country. After the battle of Clontarf, the bodies of King Brian, and of his son 
Murrough, and two other slain chieftains of his family, were brought by way of Kil- 
mainham, Swords, Duleek, and Louth, to Armagh, where the hero-monarch was 
buried on the north side of the old cathedral, and his son and kinsmen on the 
south side. An object of modern interest is a Methodist chapel, erected near the 
spot where John Wesley often preached in 1767. 

About two miles from the cathedral, from 
which all the streets seem to diverge into the 
open country, proceeding westward on the 
road to Caledon, and to the right of it, are the 
remains of the famous Eamhain Macha, now 
corruptly called Navan Fort. This ancient 
palace of the kings of Ulster — which gener- 
ally resembles the works on Tara, although 
not so extensive — was founded by Kimboath 
three hundred years before Christ ; and it re- 
mained the seat of the Ulster monarchy until 
its destruction in a.d. 332. Lanigan, in his 
Ecclesiastical History, falls into the error of 
saying that the growth of Armagh aided the 
downfall of Eamania ; whereas the latter was 
deserted for a century before St. Patrick 
founded Armagh. For ten and a half cen- 
turies Eamania was houseless, when, in 1387, Niall O'Neill, presumptive king of 
Ulster, built a house within it for the entertainment of the literati of Ireland. 
In the neighborhood of this palace was the mansion of the Red Branch Knights, 
famed in song and story. Relics of antiquity — arrow-heads, spear-heads, skians, 
and occasionally a brooch or ring of costly workmanship — are frequently dug 
up in this vicinity. 

Overlooking the Blackwater, and commanding an important pass on the 
northwest border of the county, is the Fort of Charlemont. Strongly occupy- 
ing the summit of a hill, Schomberg determined on capturing it for William 
of Orange. It was held for James II. by a brave old soldier, named Teague 
O'Regan. Schomberg having summoned the latter to surrender, was told that 




Charlemont Fort. 



476 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

he was "an old rogue, and should not have it." The Dutchman, finding he 
could not drive out the governor or garrison, determined to starve them out, and 
so sat down before the fort. McMahon, an Irish officer, at the head of five 
hundred men, gallantly fought through the besiegers with relief for the fort. 
O'Regan accepted the supply of provisions, but persistently refused admission 
to McMahon or his men, saying he had force enough to hold the fort, and any 
addition would only the more hastily consume -the food. McMahon attempted 
to fio-ht his way back ; but after two efforts was compelled to take shelter under 
the walls of the fort. Old Governor Teague still swore that, " if they could 
not make their way out they should have no lodging or entertainment from 
him ; " and McMahon's party had to take up their quarters on the counterscarp, 
between the fortress and the foe, in a miserable condition, until Governor Teague 
himself had to capitulate. 

West of Armagh, and on the road to Portadown, is a locality which had a 
vicious interest for those who kept alive civil discord and " religious " dissensions 
in the days of the "Ascendancy." This county was the scene of much bitter- 
ness and many feuds between the Protestants, who, from the time of making 
attacks, were called " Peep-o'-day Boys," and the Catholics, who, acting in self- 
defence, were styled " Defenders." The artful dissemination of rumors revealing 
pretended Popish plots and intended massacres, led to great atrocities against the 
Defenders, who were almost without arms ; and finally, to the conflict on the 
2 1st of September, 1795, known as "The Battle of the Diamond." To name 
such a melee, between an excited mass of unarmed Defenders, and a well-organ- 
ized armed body of Peep-o'-day Boys, with the support of the magistracy, " a 
battle," is ridiculous ; but the occasion and the battle, which were toasted for 
years, became notable in other respects ; for the victorious party on that day 
dropped the name of " Peep-o'-day Boys," and, assuming the name of " Orange- 
men," formed their first lodge. This was the prelude to such reckless but 
systematic persecution, that in the next year, in this small county alone, seven 
thousand persons were either killed or driven from thier homes. 

The county contains, in addition to the primatial city, the towns of Lurgan, 
Portadown, Tanderagee, Market-Hill, and Newtown-Hamilton, all of which are 
attractive from their clean and comfortable look, and the evidence of business, 
industry, and thrift. 




O^-^-'O u 



'■' h 



:o|.)rielil, 1SS2. by Thomas KeUy..Ke>» York. 




Copyrlgbt^lSSO^ 'by Thomas Ktlly,N«w X«rk 



ROSCOMMON, 





t^^S-'Il^^'^-^'^"-^''^^^^- ' 






Athlone Castle. 



Roscommon is an inland county, of fiat and undulating surface, with the 
Shannon and its lakes on part of its eastern, and the Curlew Mountains on the 
northern boundary. Loughs Key and Gara are respectively in the north and 
west. Isaac Weld, in his Statistical Survey of the county, says : "There is not a 
single instance out of the mountain district where the rocks form cliffs, or 
become remarkable objects in the landscape." The soil, however, is highly ver- 
durous, and " the imagination cannot picture land more valuable for the feeding 
of cattle." Remains of antiquity are numerous, being principally connected 

477 



478 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



with the ancient and royal family of O'Conor. Of the principal towns, Boyle 
is in the north, Roscommon in the centre, and Athlone in the south. In the 
cemetery of Kilronan, near Boyle, is buried Turlough O'Carolan, the famous 
bard, who died in the neighborhood, in 1741. Roscommon was founded by St. 
Coman, who gave his name to the county, in 550. He built an abbey, which 
in turn gave way to a superior structure, raised by O'Conor, King of Con- 
naught, in 1257; about which time the English also built a castle near it. 

The great interest of the county rests, however, around Athlone, the great 
gateway from Leinster into Connaught. When Henry HI. gave the dominion 

of Ireland to his son, 
he expressly reserved 
-^';^C|_ it ; and when Con- 

naught was assigned 
^ to Richard de Burgo, 

the king retained 
^= " five cantreds of 

land, contiguous to 
^ the fortress." It is 

of immense strength 
to-day ; and from its 
central position, and 
connections by rail, 
river, and canal, might 
be the most impor- 
tant town in Ireland. 
The sieges by Generals Douglas and Ginkle, and the defences by Grace and 
St. Ruth, are of thrilling and inspiring interest. After the latter had lost 
Athlone, he retreated and made a stand at Aughrim, a small village about 
twenty miles distant, in Galway. The famous battle was fought on the 12th of 
July, 1691. Ginkle was fully equipped, and flushed with success. St. Ruth was 
in want of absolute necessaries, and his loss of Athlone, after it had been won, 
created distrust. Toward evening the battle became one of unparalleled obsti- 
nacy. The great brunt of the contest took place at Kilcomodon Hill, on the 
top of which now stands a modern church. Here St. Ruth was killed by a can- 
non-ball, which is still preserved in St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin. An attempt 
was made to conceal his death ; but the news spread, and the English remained 
masters of perhaps the most eventful field fought during the war. 




Kilcomodon Hill. 



QUEEN'S COUNTY. 



Queen's County Is, to a large extent, a portion of the central plain of 
Ireland. At two opposite points, however, the land is elevated ; in the north- 
west, Arderin, the summit of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, rising to an altitude 
of seventeen hundred and thirty-four feet above sea-level ; and on the southeast, 
the Dysart Hills afford fine views of plantations and extensive demesnes. The 
cultivation of the soil, with the use of peat-mould from the bogs, has resulted in 
excellent crops ; but as there has been considerable consolidation of holdings, the 
population has greatly diminished. The county formed part of the ancient prin- 
cipalities of Ossory and Leix, and 
the inhabitants offered the most stub- 
born resistance to the Anglo-Nor- 
man invaders. Centuries of struggles 
with the Pale, and opposing tribes 
outside of it, brought desolation, and 
the district was transformed into 
shire divisions In the reign of Mary, 
by the titles of King's and Queen's 
County, the chief town of the latter 

being called Maryborough, after the queen, and of the former, Phillpstown, 
after her husband. 

Three miles and a half from Maryborough is what is well termed one of the 
most striking objects in the kingdom — the rock of Dun-a-mase. The rock rises 
abruptly from a vast plain, a sort of land Gibraltar, and was covered by a for- 
tress. The foundation of the latter is said to date back to the third century. On 
the arrival of the Anglo-Normans, the position was the stronghold of O'More, 
Dynast of LeIx. In the succeeding century It fell Into the hands of William 
de Bruce, in right of his wife, who was daughter of Strongbow by his wife Eva, 
daughter of Dermott McMurrough, the king of Leinster, who had invited the 
invaders. To this period is ascribed the foundation of the castle, the ruins of 
which remain. Dun-a-mase became the terror of the neighborhood, and "the 

479 




Rock of Diin-a-mase. 



48o 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



bulwark of the Pale." Although from its natural strength it would seem 
impregnable, it was several times taken and retaken. In 1325, the hereditary 
owner, O'More, took it, and recovered the whole country, holding it for four 
years. Again, in the reign of Edward III., the O'Mores held it for two years, 
and for centuries it was changing hands by arms until 1650, when it was dis- 
mantled by the English. The rock is an elliptical conoid, accessible only on 
the eastern side, defended by the barbican. From the barbican you advance to 
the gate of the lower ballium ; it is seven feet wide, and the walls are six feet 
thick. It had a parapet, crenelles, and embrasures. The lower ballium is three 
hundred and twelve feet from north to south, and one hundred and sixty from 
east to west. The gate of the upper ballium is placed in a tower, from which 
begin the walls which divided the upper and lower ballium. The upper is 

one hundred and eleven feet 
from east to west, and two 
hundred and two feet from 
north to south. 

The rock is seen from a 
distance of twenty miles in 
every direction, and its sum- 
mit commands an uninter- 
rupted prospect of very great 
extent. The huge masses of 
masonry, scattered in pictur- 
esque confusion, form a sug- 
gestive contrast to the tran- 
quil beauty of the surrounding scene. 

A noteworthy curiosity is one of those gravel-ridges called " eskers," which 
in some parts is not more than one hundred feet wide at the base, and slopes 
gradually to a width of twenty to thirty feet. It extends for nearly six miles 
through the Queen's County, and, with some breaks, for some twenty-five miles 
through King's County. It gives the idea of a made road through the bog of 
Allen, and, on examination, is found to be composed of limestone, water-worn 
pebbles, and gravel, such as is met with on the sea-shore or the margin of a 
large lake. It is planted in some places, and there is a road on it near Mary- 
borough, from which it runs in the direction of Mount Mellick, a neat Quaker 
town, the station of a branch of the Grand Canal from Dublin, on which traveling 
by " fly-boat " was much in use, before the days of railroads. 




Canal Fly-Boat. 




Copyriftlit.lSSl^by Thoma;; KcHy.Ncw York. 



liusscll j; SlTuihcr!s,Eng^»,^. Y. 




Copyright, 1682, by Thomas itolly. 



FERMANAGH. 




Fermanagh, anciently the territory of the O'Hegnys, and from the twelfth 
to the seventeenth centuries under the lordship of the MacGuires, was made 
shire ground in the 

time of Elizabeth, ~ ^ = " ===^ 1^^ 

and was included -=-si=^ ^ - ^ _ ^_ 

in the plantation of 
Ulster by James I. 
It is appropriately 
named — Feor- 
magh-eanagh — the 
country of the 
Jakes. The terri- 
tory is mainly a 
framework for the 

abounding mirrors of water, the principal of which. Lough Erne, extends through 
the whole county, and divides it into nearly equal parts. The Erne is forty-five 
miles in length, and is, properly speaking, divided by the island on which the 
town of Enniskillen is built, into the upper and lower lakes. The upper lake 
is south of the town to Wattle Bridge, and the lower lake north of it to Ross- 
cor ; and the stream which enters its most southern point, and that which 
escapes from the lower lake into Donegal on the north, alike retain the name 
of the River Erne. Enniskillen consists principally of one street, which con- 
nects at either end with the mainland by a bridge ; and its name — a corruption 
of Innis (Island) sec (bush) lion (net) — net-bush-island,* indicates that the 
ancient fishermen fastened their nets to a bush — or bushes — on the island. It is 
called by an English tourist the Interlacken of Ireland, and he gives a suggestive 
idea of its surroundings. " It is a clean and neat little town, nestling between 
two beautiful lakes, and on each side of the town rushes a crystal stream, pellucid 

* The Annals of Clonmacnoise says, Enniskillen — Inis-Cethlenn — received its name from Cethlenn (Kehlen), 
■wife of Balor, the Fomorian chief. 

481 



482 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

as the ' arrowy Rhone.' It is true that Enniskillen cannot boast of its pine- 
clad cliffs, its snow-capped Alps, its glittering glaciers, magnificent cataracts, its 
Staubach, Giesbach, Reichenbach ; but all these would the inhabitants of Inter- 
lacken and Thun gladly exchange for the fertile fields waving with golden grain, 
and the rich pasturages covered with herds, that everywhere surround the two 
finest lakes in the land."* From any of its approaches the situation of Ennis- 
killen is striking ; and from the highest elevations of the island it commands 
delightful views in every direction. Forbes thinks it would not be easy to point 
out a more charming locality, "even without taking into account its magnificent 
lakes." On the chief summit is erected a lofty column, in honor of a penin- 
sular hero, General Sir Lowry Cole, a descendant of the founder of the town, 
who received the island as a grant from James I. 

Half a century ago Inglis confidently asserted, that the lower Lough Erne, 
take it all in all, was the most beautiful lake in the three kingdoms ; and " but 
for the majestic Alpine outline that bounds the horizon on the upper part of 
Lake Leman — Lake Leman itself could not contend in beauty with this little- 
visited lake in the County of Fermanagh." Otway thought, and Forbes agrees 
with him, that the number of hilly islands in the upper lake detract from the 
expansive effect which should be the essential charm of a water view ; but this 
characteristic presents features of attraction which are indicated by Eraser, when 
he says that it is only those who have sailed through this labyrinth of little 
lakes, or have traversed their shores, that can form a correct idea of their 
devious windings, their endlessly varied creeks, nooks, and bays, or the numer- 
ous pretty islets they contain. Among the latter some are wooded, others in 
tillage ; but, generally speaking, the larger are inhabited ; and it adds not a little 
to the scenery to see the peasantry, who are located on the islands or along the 
shores of the mainland, rowing their little home-made skiffs over the smooth 
waters from isle to isle, or from shore to shore, at which men and women, old 
and young, are equally expert. The upper lake is ten miles long, and its largest 
island, Inishmore, contains two thousand nine hundred acres. The lower lake 
is twenty miles long, the width varying from two to five miles. Boa Island con- 
tains thirteen hundred acres. The islands in both lakes are said to number 
one for every day in the year, and they are all green, and most of them 
exceedingly productive. Whether we traverse the shores of the lower lake, or 
sail over its quiet waters, which are broken into pleasing forms by the wooded 



* Dr. James Johnston, Tour in Ireland. 



FERMANAGH. 



483 



and pastoral islands scattered throughout its broad expanse, we are charmed 
with the views. The receding, still coves, nooks, creeks, and smooth shallow 
bays, the sloping lawns, wooded promontories, sequestered knolls, cultivated 
leas, and the beautiful mansions which decorate its banks, more than justify now 
Mr. Inglis's appreciation of it fifty years ago. The lakes are nearly on the same 
level ; but at Rosscor, the waters of the lower assuming the still river character, 
maintain it for three and a half miles to Belleek, where they are precipitated 
over a limestone ledge fourteen feet high, and rush thence in flashing activity 
through the County Donegal to the sea. 

In addition to the attractive surroundings of Enniskillen, and the drives on 
the lake roads, than which, says Dr. Johnston, " there is scarcely a more beauti- 
ful drive in Europe than that between Enniskillen and Bally-Shannon ; " there 
are within easy reach scenes 
and objects of picturesque and 
historical interest of no usual 
order. About five miles from 
Enniskillen, west of the lower 
lakes, on the hilly road to the 
lonely Derrygonnelly, are the 
ruins of Monea Castle. A few 
miles to the northwest, on a 
promontory jutting into the 
lake, are the remains of Tully 
Castle, from which a fine view 
is obtained. These castles are 

of the " Plantation" era, and present the general characteristics of the strongholds 
— a square keep, or castle, turreted at the angles, and surrounded by an outer 
wall enclosing "a strong court or bawn " — by the erection of which the "under- 
takers " kept in part their contract to supplant, and hold the soil against, the right- 
ful but evicted chiefs. On the bosom of the lower lake, however, must be 
sought the objects of deepest interest — on the famous Devenish {damh-inis, 
ox island) — less than three miles from Enniskillen ; and a row of half an hour 
will bring the tourist to it. We will make the trip, and with the aid of Mr. W. 
F. Wakeman, the worthy pupil and assistant of the ablest Irish archaeologists, 
take note of the venerable ruins on the venerated isle. 

On the left we pass Portora Royal School, situated upon a pleasant elevation 
above a gentle indentation of the lake. This little bay was the usual place of 




Monea Castle. 



484 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



embarkation for Devenish, and hither for ages were brought the bodies of the 
dead on their way for interment in the holy island — hence the name " Portora," 
or the " Port of lamentation, or tears." Beyond this point the lake suddenly 
narrows and becomes almost a rapid. On a bank to the left, immediately over 
the water and fully commanding the passage, rises the shell of a once formidable 
castle, a fortress of the Maguires, no doubt. It is of a quadrangular form, with 
round towers at the angles. The walls are pierced with holes for matchlocks or 
muskets ; and as these apertures are original features, the building cannot be 
regarded as of very great antiquity, notwithstanding the Norman-looking towers 
which flank the walls. Not a single moulding of window or doorway, by which 
a date might be inferred, remains. The proud chieftains and ladies bright, the 

minstrels, light -limbed 
kerns, and mailed gal- 
lowglasses, who once oc- 
cupied this keep, have 
long mouldered in the 
dust, and the old pile 
seems fast crumbling 
to the lake. Upon the 
opposite side of the 
lake appears Derrygore 
House, in the Eliza- 
bethan style, and in ad- 
mirable keeping with 
the surrounding scenery. 
Our boat now shoots into a bright expanse of waters fringed with forests of 
bulrushes, behind which are countless beds of blue forget-me-nots and other 
wild flowers of nature's planting ; white water-lilies float in front ; and every 
now and then, from clumps of reeds and other aquatic plants, frighted by our 
intrusion, start the water-hens and flappers. The island soon appears, a long, 
low, grassy eminence, over the ridge of which the upper portion of the round 
tower is seen. There too is the square belfry of the abbey^a thing almost of 
yesterday compared with its companion — yet the less ancient building presents 
a more time-tinted and wind-worn appearance than the tower. As we near the 
island other buildings become distinguishable. 

Devenish is clothed in rank herbage during summer. Excepting the gray 
walls and the solitary hut of a herd, there is no trace of man. But when winter 




Tally CastU 



FERMANAGH. 



485 



has stripped it, the old gardens of the ancient community can be traced in many 
a boundary, and even by the presence of herbs and plants, which, though old 
in the soil, are not found in other islands, or on the surrounding hills. The 
buildings upon Devenish are, firstly, the foundations and a portion of the walls 
of the house or oratory of the saint ; secondly, the round tower ; thirdly, the 
great church ; fourthly, the abbey ; fifthly, the foundations of an unknown 
enclosure — probably the aherla or burial-place of the early abbots. 

The house of St. Molaisse, like that of St. Columba at Kells, in Meath, 
was a small, stone-roofed quadrangular edifice. Its remains testify that it was 
one of the earliest structures composed of stone and lime in Ireland, and 
impress us with the 

truth of tradition in - ^_ 

assigning it to the 
time of St. Molaisse 
(Maol losa, servant of 
Jesus), who died 563. 
It was doubtless the 
dwelling and oratory 
of the saint, afterward 
converted into a 
church. The stones, 
which appear to have 
been rudely ham- 
mered, are of im- 
mense size, and laid 
in the Cyclopean 

style. The walls were of great thickness. Sixty years ago this inestimable relic 
of the architecture of the sixth century, so intimately associated with one of the 
most illustrious fathers of the Irish Church, stood as it had remained for near 
thirteen hundred years : but now little is left save the foundation and some three 
feet high of the side walls. 

The Round Tower is considered the most beautiful and perfect structure of its 
class remaining, and is esteemed a marvel of masonry. Of course the wooden 
work — doors and floors — are all gone ; but the stone construction remains per- 
fect. Without and within, its sides are as smooth as a worn pavement ; or, as 
one writer says, the inside " is almost as smooth as a gun-barrel." The stones 
are so admirably laid and fitted one to another, that at a little distance the inter- 










Round Tower and Church on Devenish. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



slices of the masonry can scarcely be detected. The doorway is semi-circular, 
with a prominent architrave and inclined sides ; nearly all the stones forming its 
casing run the whole thickness of the wall. At the joining of the roof there is 
a unique feature — a cornice running entirely round, ornamented with four human 
heads well executed in stone, placed at the cardinal points, each surmounting 
one of the four large apertures. The beards of the heads are curiously inter- 
laced, like those on the capitals of the western doorway of Killeshin Church, 
near Carlow. The spaces between the heads are decorated with bosses, scrolls, 
and other ornaments. With the exception of a triangular opening above the 
doorway, the windows and apertures are of a quadrangular shape. Were the 
tower of Devenish an erection of a year ago, it could not give fairer promise 
than it does, with all its age, of a long future. It is sixty-nine feet high to the 

conical converg- 
ing at the top, 
which is fifteen 
feet more. It is 
forty -eight feet 
in circumference, 
and the walls are 
three feet five 
inches thick; thus 
the inside is only 
nine feet ten 
inches in diam- 
eter. At the base, outside, a circle of stones projects five inches. 

Of the great church, the only remaining feature is a fine window in the 
southern wall. This is round-headed, with semi-cylindrical mouldings very 
deeply cut. The masonry of this church is quite distinct from that of St. 
Molaisse's oratory or the tower. Near the highest part of the island are the 
ruins of a large abbey church, erected by Matthew O'Dubhagan in the early 
part of the fifteenth century, which, being dated on a wall in the interior, is of 
very great interest to students of archaeology. 

To the north of the oratory, within a small enclosure, which appears to have 
been the ahcrla, or saints' burial-place, is a rude stone coffin — supposed to be 
of mediaeval times. The island is regarded with great veneration by the people, 
among whom there is no dearer wish than to be laid to rest within its sacred 
precincts " among their own." 




Sculpture on Round Tower — North side. 



LEITRIM. 

Leitrim, a long narrow county of the province of Connaught, lies alon;^ th'^. 
western boundary of Ulster, and extends from Longford County to Donegal 
Bay. The extreme length of the county is fifty-one miles, and its width varies 
from two to twenty. The Shannon, which flows through Lough Allen, forms 
the western boundary : and the scenery partakes, to some extent, of the char- 
acter of that in the northwest of Fermanagh, and east of Sligo. 

The county town is Carrick on Shannon, situated on the left bank of the 
great river. Lough Erne and the Shannon are connected by a canal, which 
joins the former at Ballydonell, and the latter north of Carrick, at the village 
of Leitrim, whence navigation is continued to Lough Allen by canal, thus open- 
ing navigation of the river from the ocean at Limerick almost to its source. 

Lough Allen is eight miles in length, and enlarges gradually northward from 
a quarter of a mile to three miles. It is one hundred and fifty feet above the sea- 
level, and lies between the mountains of Sleive-anierin on the east, and the 
Braulieve Mountains on the west. The highest summit of the former is one 
thousand nine hundred and twenty-two feet ; and that of the latter, which is 
part of the chain which runs to Sligo Bay, thirteen hundred and seventy-seven 
feet. These mountains, from their extent and elevation, present remarkable 
features in the country for many miles around, and also in conjunction with the 
scenery outside of the county Leitrim ; Lough Allen being at its narrowest part, 
running close to Cavan on the northwest, while on the opposite point it is for 
a couple of miles the boundary of Roscommon. As the nursery of the Shan- 
non, Lough Allen is perhaps the most noticeable feature of the county. Shortly 
after the river issues from the lough, it is augmented at Ballintra bridge by the 
first, and not the least, of its tributaries, the Arigna ; next, by the Fiorish stream ; 
by another stream at Leitrim village ; and then by the Boyle river, with the 
waters of Lakes Gara, Key, and Oakport ; strengthened by which the increasing 
Shannon sweeps under Carrick bridge, and thence through the centre of the 
island to the ocean. 



MONAGHAN. 



^w'%s. 



MoNAGHAN, an inland county of Ulster, was anciently the country of the 
MacMahons, who continued their haughty opposition to the English down to 

the time of Elizabeth ; 
^jzj^irr^ when the representa- 

"^^I^^g^^^ -^ = tive of the clan was 

^s=^s=^ treacherously captured 

-^~- and hanged, and the 

territory made shire- 
ground. That this 
legal murder, the cir- 
cumstances of which 
are given by Fynes 
Moris on, had no 
" beneficial " effect on 
the clan is evidenced 
by the report of Sir 
John Davies, on his fa- 
mous tour of inspection in the succeeding reign. In 1595, Hugh O'Neill 
defeated the English at Clontibret, contributing to the rout by slaying in des- 
perate single combat a gigantic officer named Seagrave. 

A portion of the southeast is mountainous, the sterile highlands of Slieve- 
beagh rising to a height of twelve hundred and fifty-four feet ; while an offshoot 
of the Pews extends into Armagh. The general surface presents a succession 
of hills and ridges with small loughs and bogs between. Although the county 
is said to have derived its name from Muin-echan — the dwelling of monks — it 
presents a strong contrast to its neighbors, Armagh, Louth, and Down, by the 
rarity of either religious or military remains. Clones, on the border of Fer- 
managh, is an exception, containing the ruins of an abbey of the fifth century, 
and a round tower, with the novelty of construction of having rough stones on 

the outside, and smooth within. 

488 




tween Monaglian and Cavan. 




Cupji-iffht, !li82,by Thomas KeUy, New York. 



Mm 



^ 




°^ ME A Til \ 



LOUTH. 




King Johii's Castle, Carlingford. 



Louth, the smallest county of Ireland, embraces scenes, and is associated 
with deeds, of the saddest and deepest interest, as well as of great importance 
in the history of England and Ireland. Invaders, saints, kings, and adventurers 
have passed over it — Heremonians, Danes, Christians, Cromwellians, Jacobites, 
Williamites, have made its waters, its fields, and its towns famous or unfortu- 
nate, and assured the little territory a wide space in history. With its eastern 
side to the Irish Sea from Carlingford Bay to the Boyne, it presented induce- 
ments or facilities for adventure from the earliest period. Foreign kings have 
hunted each other over its borders ; foreign dynasties have sunk in its waters ; 
and its soil has been deeply drenched by the most treacherous and atrocious 
shedding of native blood by a more ferocious puritan butcher than any pagan 
Dane that ever ravaged an abbey. Toward the sea the surface is level, and on 
the north mountainous. The principal towns are Dundalk and Drogheda. Other 

489 



49° 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



noticeable places are Ardee, near the western border, where are some interesting 
remains, Castle Bellingham on the east, famous for its ale, and Carlingford. on 
the northwest. 

Dundalk, the county town, is situated on the north, on an inlet of the bay 
of the same name. In this bay took place the only important naval fight 
recorded in Irish history; when Fingal, the leader of the Irish fleet, boarded the 
vessel of Sitric, the Danish prince, and, seeing the chances of success on the 
side of the latter, suddenly seized him, and leaped with him into the foaming 
sea, which engulfed both to death. Excited by this patriotic example, two other 

Irish chief- 
tains seized 
Tor and Mag- 
nus, brothers 
of Sitric, and 
leaped with 
them to eter- 
nity. These 
acts of self- 
sacrificing 
daring inspir- 
ed the Irish 
and appalled 
the Danes ; 
and the latter, 
left without 
leaders, gave 
Castle Roche. way on all 

sides, and few 
escaped to carry the tale to the shores of the Baltic. Edward Bruce was crowned 
king of Ireland, in Dundalk, in 1315 ; and at Faughart, a few miles distant, he 
was defeated and slain. Advancing through the elevated land bordering the coast 
from Dundalk to Carlingford, we have fine views of both bays, and of the coasts 
of Louth and Down. Carlingford, romantically situated between the mountains 
and the sea, is one of the oldest of Irish towns. The blue waters break against 
its walls, and the mountains, in steep acclivities, rise from behind its gardens 
nearly two thousand feet. The fragments of walls and towers of the Anglo- 
Norman era, the picturesque I'emains of King John's Castle, rising thirty feet 





1 






LOUTH. 



491 




King James's Quarters before the Boyne. 



over a precipice jutting into tlie bay, the ruins of the Dominican Abbey, erected 
in the fourteenth century, in the centre of the town, speak of busy Hfe, culture, 
and importance in the past. The CarHngford Mountains are unique, as well 
as affording picturesque back- 
ground to the scenery on all _==s^Sisr^-_ 

sides. They are encircled by ~ ^ =--=— = = ":: v: 

the sea, except for eight miles, "ifj? * 

and are separated for that dis- 
tance from the adjacent moun- 
tains by a beautiful and well 
defined dale ; and excellent 
roads run around their base, 
giving great facility to enjoy 
the charming tract of country, 
which discloses new and strik- 
ing objects at every advance. 
From the mountains them- 
selves magnificent prospects are obtained of the Mourne Mountains, and those 
around Newry ; of the bays of CarHngford and Dundalk, the coast of Louth, 
and of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains, and, in fair weather, all that the 

eye can embrace of the inter- 
-- ,j^,;t!^9. mediate country. 

''"^ The castle attributed to 

King John was one of the 
border strongholds of the 
English Pale. Another, and 
one of the most picturesque 
in Louth, is the frontier fort- 
ress called Roches Castle, sup- 
posed to be a corruption of 
Rose Castle, named after 
Rose Verdun, who is said to 
have constructed it. It stands 
on a rocky hill, and the area 
within the rampart walls is 
somewhat triangular, inclining to a semicircle in form, following the uneven- 
ness of the hill, and utilizing the rock on which it stands. The great chord is 




King William's Quarters before the Boyne. 



492 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the front line of eighty yards, and the reverse forty. Holding out for Charles^ 
in 1649, it was demolished by Cromwell. 

Drogheda, formerly Tredagh, a very ancient town, is situated on both sides 
of the historic Boyne. Although the famous battle, which exiled the Stuarts 
and firmly seated William of Orange on the English throne, was fought three 
miles from the town, and on the Meath side of that " ill-fated river," the event, 
its antecedents and results, are inseparably associated with Drogheda. Both 
James and Wiliam sojourned before the battle, not far distant, the former 

in Carntowa 
; . Castle, situated 

^ ^ ~ on a r i s i n g 

ground some 
two miles north 
of Drogheda, 
on the road to 
Clogher ; and 
William in the 
old house a t 
Ardagh, on a 
limestone ridge 
two and a half 
miles from Old 
Bridge. So an- 
cient is Drog- 
heda, that it is supposed to have been founded by Heremon, son of Milesius. 
Parting in a storm on the south from his brother Heber, who landed in Kerry, 
Heremon, after many difficulties, landed at Drogheda, having lost his brothers 
Aireach and Colpa in the bay. It was in memory of the latter that the ancient 
name Imbhar Colpa was attached to the locality. Drogheda suffered from 
Danish incursions in the eighth, ninth and tenth centuries; and after the Anglo- 
Norman occupation it was included in the original grant of Meath to Hugo de 
Lacy. Richard II. held his court here in 1395, and received the submission of 
four of the provincial princes, upon whom he conferred knighthood in the Church 
of the Magdalen, although they assured him it was a superfluous honor, as they 
had been knighted at the age of seven by their fathers. Parliaments were fre- 
quently held in Drogheda, and it was here the Poynings' law of 1494 was 
enacted. Thomas, Earl of Desmond, was beheaded on the North Commons, in 




Cromwell's Fort. 



LOUTH. 



493 



1467, by order of the Lord Deputy Worcester. His head was sent to DubHn, 
and spiked on the castle ; and a stately monument, erected with his effigy 
in the Magdalen Church, was removed to Christ's Church, Dublin, a century 
.afterward. In 1641, Drogheda was successfully defended by Sir Henry Tich- 
bourne against Sir Phelim O'Neill. In 1649, it was held for the royalists by Sir 
Arthur Ashton, a brave and experienced officer, who had two thousand live hun- 
dred foot, and three hundred horse. Cromwell besieged and attacked it with 
■eight thousand foot, four thousand horse, a formidable train of artillery, and all 




St. Lawrence's Gate. 



the necessaries of war. He sat down before it, erected a battery, and made a 
breach in the wall. Twice the gallant garrison repulsed the enemy, but finally, 
led by Cromwell in person, entered, and commenced that course of butchery in 
Ireland which has left his name a terror and a curse in the country, and the type 
of hypocrisy and inhumanity to every Christian historian. The elevated spot, 
from which he first assaulted the town, is still known as Cromwell's Fort. 



494 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Crypt at Mcllifont Abbey. 



Formerly Drogheda, as a fortified town, was walled, and of these by-gone 
fortifications the principal remains are St. Lawrence's Gate and the West Gate. 
The former, with its strong circular towers and connecting curtain wall over the 

arch, is a good specimen of ancient mili- 
tary architecture. Among the ecclesi- 
astical remains are St. Mary's church, 
and the Magdalen steeple. The Boyne 
viaduct is the most important structure 
of the kind yet erected in Ireland, and, 
with the Newfoundwell viaduct, pre- 
sents a splendid effect. Crossing the 
Boyne east of the town, at a height of 
ninety feet above spring tide, an iron 
superstructure of three lattice beams,, 
five hundred and fifty feet in length, 
is carried over the river on four lofty- 
piers, forming three spans, the centre 
two hundred and fifty, the others one hundred and twenty-five feet each. The 
approach from the southern side is by twelve semicircular arches of sixty feet 
span, and from the north by three similar arches. A little further on the north- 
ern side is the Newfoundwell viaduct, consisting of five lofty semicircular arches 

of forty-five feet span. It is built of 

massive rubble stone, and the semi- 
circular piers, which are carried high 
above its level, and massive para- 
pets, castellated and embattled, are 
effectively in keeping with the old 
St. Lawrence Gate. The viaducts 
were designed by Sir John MacNeill, 
and executed by Mr. Evans, the 
builder of the Conway tubular bridge. 
Among the antiquities of interest 
to be visited from Drogheda are 
Mellifont and Monasterboice. They are each about five miles and a half from 
the town in different directions. Mellifont is situated in a romantic valley, 
watered by the little river Mattock, near the road to Ardee. The Abbey was 
•"the first erected (in 1142) by the Cistercians, the great church builders of the 




Baptistry, Mellifont. 



LOUTH. 



495 



Middle Ages." At the dissolution of the monasteries, it was converted into a 
place of defence, and subsequently suffered much. The principal remains, not 
extensive, but very interesting, are St. Bernard's chapel and the Baptistry. 
The chapel is partly imbedded in the rock, and consists of a crypt and an upper 
apartment. The crypt is a chaste specimen of elaborate and finished workman- 
ship ; the roof is groined, the arches springing from clustered demi-columns on 
each side ; the capitals are all richly carved with rich designs of foliage. There 
are three windows, and two arched recesses ; the windows are also groined and 
pillared at the angles, the capitals representing grotesque heads. * * The 
mullions are destroyed, but some portions of the tracery of the tops remain, and 
a handsome lozenge, or nail-headed moulding, is continued round the interior 
of each." The Baptistry, according to Archdall, had a 
reservoir on the top for water, which was conveyed by 
pipes to the several offices of the abbey. The door- 
ways are of semicircular arches, and, with the pillars, 
" are models of exquisite workmanship," and, says Hall, 
"if the productions of a native artist, they are highly 
valuable as specimens of the state of the fine arts in 
Ireland prior to the English invasion." The ornamen- 
tal parts are of red granite, and were formerly painted 
and partly gilt. It was to Mellifont that Devorgoilla, 
the wife of O'Rourke, prince of Breffni, retired and 
ended her days, after her willing abduction by Mac- 
Morrough, the king of Leinster, had led to the intro- 
duction of the Anglo-Normans. 

Monasterboice, Mainistir-hiitc — that is, the monas- 
tery of Boece, or Boetius — owes its origin to a celebrated bishop and abbot 
of this name, said to have been a disciple of St. Patrick. 'He died on the 
seventh of December, 522. Of its history little is preserved, beyond some 
scattered records of the deaths of its abbots and professors anterior to the 
twelfth century, of whom the poet, antiquary and historian, Flann, was the most 
distinguished, and whose death is thus recorded in the Annals of the Four 
Masters : 

" 1056. Flann of the Monastery, lecturer of Monasterboice, the last fountain of knowledge 
of the Irish, in history, poetry, eloquence and general literature, died on the fourth of the calends 
of December (28th November)." 

A list of historical poems by Flann, is given in O'Reilly's Irish Writers ; 




Cross of Muredach. 



496 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



but his more valuable remains are his Synchronisms of the Irish Kings, with the 
Eastern and Roman Emperors, and of the Christian Provincial Kings of Ire- 
land, and the Kings of Scotland of the Irish race, with the chief monarchs of 
Ireland. This work is embodied in the MS. Book of Lecan. 

Monasterboice consists of a small village sufficiently remote from the ruins 
to allow them to be seen with advantage ; the remains of two small oblong 
churches, a round tower and three stone crosses, two standing, the other fallen 
and mutilated, the whole surrounded by an ancient graveyard, in which are 
headstones, tombs and monuments of all sizes, shapes and ages. The churches 
are small and rude, appearing as if they never had any pretensions to archi- 
tectural taste or 
grandeur; but 
the round tower 
is magnificent in 
proportions, and 
most solidly built 
of limestone. In 
its present dilapi- 
dated condition 
it stands about a 
hundred and ten 
feet, though orig- 
inally, before be- 
ing struck by 
lightning, and its 
cap and a portion 
of the superstructure destroyed, it must have been many feet higher. In circum- 
ference it is fifty-one feet, and is divided into five stories, each of the floors 
being lighted by one aperture, except the fifth, which has four openings, facing 
the cardinal points. The entrance on the southeast, six feet from the ground, 
is but five feet six inches in height, and twenty-two inches in width. The crosses, 
two of which are on the south side of the church, are magnificent works of 
antique art, tastefully and elaborately sculptured with legends, images and armo- 
rial bearings, among the latter of which is discernible the " Red-hand " of the 
O'Neills. One of these crosses, upon which the name of Muredach is legible, 
is believed to be " the most ancient religious relic now in Ireland." 




Ruins at Monasterboice. 



¥,ftifrf^W 




J>-B O G S JE If A. 



COEJciglit IS30 Ijj ThomaaKelljUewc York. 



Kusaell &. SlruQie»s,Eiig*s,If J« 




JtMnell i Siruthers, K F.| 



C..l.yrii,'lit, UVJ, \syTl:omaVK'<:hy, Ninv York. 



WEXFORD 




htt)) Latuck on tlu SlaiiLj 



Perhaps there is no more interesting district in Ireland than the maritime 
County of Wexford. With other maritime counties it will not compare in point 
■of scenery, but its ecclesiastical remains are important, and its military ruins 
numerous, while in the industry which blesses peace it is conspicuous, and in the 
spirit of heroic daring and sacrifice which asserts independence, or is worthy to 
preserve it, the people of Wexford have not been surpassed. In the time of 
Ptolemy, this district was inhabited by the Menapii, whose chief city, Menapia, 
was the site of the present town of Wexford. The extreme southern point — 
the peninsula of Hook, is, in the opinion of some writers, the Hieron Promon- 
toinum, "sacred promontory," of the Grecian geographer. Its present name is 
derived from the Danes, who, having devastated the surrounding country, made a 
permanent settlement, the centre of which was Waesfiord (West-Haven). In May, 
1 169, the first expedition of the Anglo-Norman allies of the base MacMurrough, 
under Robert Fitz-Stephen and Maurice Prendergast, landed at Bag-an-bun, in 

497 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Promontory of Bag-an-bun. 



Fethard Bay. Formerly part of the territory of Hy Kinsellagh, Wexford was 
formed into a county in the reign of John. Precipitated into the earUest conflict 
with the invaders, Wexford was pre-eminently distinguished as the unexpected 

scene of the most protracted, 
headlong, valiant, and desper- 
ate struggle of the national- 
ists in '98. The whole county 
may be said to have been a 
battle-ground; but Oulart 
Hill and Enniscorthy, Gorey 
and Tubberneering, New 
Ross and Vinegar Hill, are 
points especially associated 
with patriotic fortitude, valor, and sacrifice.* 

Wexford occupies almost a detached position from the rest of Ireland, hav- 
ing the sea on its eastern and southern sides, the estuary of the Suir and the 
Barrow along the greater part of the western border, the remainder of which 
and the northern side are hemmed in by a lofty range of mountainous country, 
through which there are few lines of communication. On the north, or Wlck- 
low border, the mountains extend in a southwesterly direction to the valley, 
through which flows the river Slaney, 
dividing the range from the still more 
lofty and extensive chain of Mount Leln- 
ster and the Blackstairs, three remark- 
able pointed summits of which are called 
the Leaps of Ossian's Greyhounds. 
Except on these borders, there are no 
elevated ridges of any great extent, but 
the surface Is diversified by single hills, 
some of which — the Forth mountains — 
attain an elevation of five hundred feet 
above the sea-level. The land declines 
from the primitive mountains toward 
the sea In unequal elevations ; and where the deposits of alluvial substances are 




The Saltee Islands. 



* See " The Wexford Campaign" and "The Trail of the Menapii," '98 and '4S : T/ie Modern Revolutionary Hist, 
and Lit. of Ireland. By John Savage. 1856. 



WEXFORD. 




Ruins of Baniiow Abbey. 



considerable, the surface presents a picturesque waving outline, and is enlivened 
by numerous gently flowing streams. 

The Slaney, which enters the county on the northwest, and crosses it in 
a southeasterly direction to the 
bay of Wexford, presents a suc- 
cession of fine views, to which 
the remains of antiquity and 
modern villas and mansions add 
effective and contrasting ele- 
ments of scenic interest. The 
sea-coast presents no shelter 
from Arklow to Wexford harbor, 
which, though capacious inside, 
was obstructed by a sand-bar, 
the deepening of which, how- 
ever, has been effected. 

Passing the Tuskar Light, " the mariner's guiding-star to the Irish Channel," 
and doubling Carnsore Point, the southeastern extremity of Ireland, the Saltee 
Islands come in view. A sand-bank seven miles long extends westward from 
Carnsore to Crossfarnogue Point — pierced only by two narrow inlets, which 
admit the tide-water to and from the sea-lakes of Lady's Island and Tacumshin. 
Another unbroken sand-bank of six miles, still west, limits Ballyteigue Lough, 
west of which is Bannow Bay. Near the mouth of the latter is shown the site 

of a town buried by the sea-sand, 
— it is said, at the close of the seven- 

teenth century. The only indica- 
tions of former human occupation 
are the remains of a church or 
abbey, on the summit of a hill, 
overlooking a series of hillocks 
with straight and regular depres- 
sions between, pointing out, it is 
believed, the courses of covered 
streets. At the interior extremity 
of Bannow Bay, on the Scar, are 
a group of remarkable ruins, generally called the Seven Castles of Clonmines, 
although but four castles and an abbey are indicated by portions of the square 




Tintern Abbey. 



500 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Clonmines. 



towers of the former, and walls of the latter. According to various statements, 
a town, surrounded by vallum and fosse, existed here • and Mr. Fraser, in his 

Statistical Sur v ey of 
the county, says the 
Danes established a 
mint at this place. 

The Bannow coast 
is rocky, and affords 
good views of the op- 
posite shores of Feth- 
ard Bay, the rocky head- 
land of Bag -an -bun, 
and the peninsula of 
Hook. The town of 
Fethard, an ancient lo- 
cality of prominence, 
sending two members 
to the Irish Parliament, is now but a village. A few miles north of it is the 
beautiful ruin of Tintern Abbey, which also can be reached by Nelson-bridge, 
over the Owenduff, from Clonmines. This interesting abbey was founded in 
1 200 by William, earl marshal of England, and earl of Pembroke, who mar^ 
ried the daughter of Strongbow and the princess Eva. When in extreme peri] 
at sea, the earl made a vow that if he escaped he would build an abbey where 
he safely landed. His 
vessel found shelter 
in Bannow Bay, and 
he erected this ab- 
bey in honor of the 
Mother of God, and 
brought to it Cister- 
cian monks from Tin- 
tern, in Monmouth- 
shire. 

The southern part 

of Wexford is particularly distinguished by the number of plain, square castles, 
or tower-houses, clearly intended more for defence than for luxury. They mark 
the era of the invasion ; and Mr. Wakeman directs attention to the combination 




The Lake at yoJuts/own. 



WEXFORD. 



501 



of old Irish and new Anglo-Norman ideas in ecclesiastical architecture, instancing 
at least three abbey churches in Wexford, erected at that period, as amongst the 
most sumptuous in Ireland. These are the abbeys of Tintern, Ferns, and Dun- 
brody ; and of which Dunbrody has excited the greatest amount of admiration. 
It is strikingly situated in the southwestern boundary of the county on a pro- 
jecting point, where the Barrow and Suir meet, and flow into Waterford har- 
bor. It was founded by Harvey de Montmorency, or Marisco, in 1182. Having 




Enniscot tin 



quarrelled with Strongbow, he built this monastery, and, settling it with Cister- 
cian monks, entered it himself, became the first abbot, died within its walls, and 
was buried there. It was spacious and magnificent ; and the ruins inspire rever- 
ential awe for its noble arches, its grand high tower, its tasteful windows, and 
breadth of wall. Not many years ago the interior walls of the church were 
nearly entire ; on each side of the chancel were three chapels, vaulted and 
groined ; the great aisle was divided into three parts by a double row of arches, 
supported by three piers : the inside of the arches have a moulding springing 



502 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



from beautiful consoles. The tower is supported by a noble arch, and the cloisters 
appear to have been spacious, but their ruins alone remain. The west window 
is entire ; the door beneath was magnificent, having been adorned with open 
filagree work cut in stone, and highly raised from its surface. Up to the year 
1492, the records show that the abbots of Dunbrody were several times sum- 
moned, as lords, to Parliament. About this time Baron Finglas advised the sup- 
pression of this and other abbeys as "adjoining to the Irishry, and o-ivino- more 
aid and supportation to those Irishmen than to the king or his subjects," and 
that they should be given to young lords, knights, and gentlemen out of 

England, which shall 
dwell upon the same." 
In 1537, five years be- 
fore the general sup- 
pression, Dunbrody 
with its possessions — 
fisheries, mills, grange- 
lands, etc., was vested 
in the crown. 

The southern dis- 
trict, lying between the 
bays of Bannow and 
Wexford, and the hills 
of Forth and the sea, 
comprises the baronies 
of Forth and Bargy, the 
descendants of a special colony, which has preserved old customs and a hybrid 
tongue, while in many respects becoming more Irish than the Irish. The late 
eminent Dr. Russell, President of Maynooth College, in an address before the 
British Association in Dublin, gave an account of the people of these baronies, 
which presents some very interesting points. They are distinguished by a general 
air of comfort and independence, and customs brought by the early colonists are 
still adhered to. In the working days of summer a siesta is taken called cntcete. 
It lasts for two hours after the noontide meal, is reduced to one hour in harvest, 
and dispensed with in winter. At all seasons early rising, breakfasting before 
daylight in winter, and habits of order, cleanliness and unceasing occupation, 
are cultivated. Some facts command the attention of social philosophers and 
ethnologists. Firstly, the same families have generally remained on the same 




Dunbrody Abbey — West. 



WEXFORD. 



503 



farms for six centuries, and the population, though dense, is not crowded beyond 
the means of subsistence ; and, it is claimed, " there is not a better housed, better 
clad, or better fed peasantry in the United Kingdom." Secondly, although a 
Teutonic race, living separately from the natives, and having Protestant land- 
lords, they have always steadily rejected the Reformation. They are, probably, 
the most devoted Catholics in Ireland, producing manifold more priests than 
any other population of the same extent. How, it is asked, are these facts to 
be reconciled with certain current theories about race and religion ? How is it 




Remains of Sclskcr Abbey adjoining the old fortifications. 



they have none of the social faults usually ascribed by Protestants to the influ- 
ence of the Catholic religion ? Thirdly, they seem to verify a mooted theory 
about the causes of insanity and idiocy. In order to keep their farms in the 
same families, they have been in the habit of intermarrying with blood relations ; 
and to this is ascribed a fact, that Forth and Bargy send more lunatics to the 
asylum at Enniscorthy than any other part of the county. Fourthly, though 
the landlords are Protestants, evictions and " agrarian outrages " are excep- 
tional, if not almost unknown, and, but a few years since, only one landlord was 



S04 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Rathmacnee Castle. 



Spoken of as " feloniously " appropriating his tenants' improvements in the form 
of increased rents. Fifthly, although the people of Forth and Bargy are men 

of " Saxon blood," they fought 
against England in 1798; and 
it has been remarked, that for 
half a century no man from the 
district was ever known to take 
royal bounty as a soldier. 

The country throughout 
these baronies is usually flat, 
and without striking features, 
save the remains of the tower 
houses alluded to. Over a sur- 
face of forty-thousand acres, the 
remains of fifty-nine castles are 
still standing, and the sites of 
many more are pointed out. 

From the Warder's watch-tower, at least two, and often six castles were ia 

sight, and a signal-fire on one soon spread the alarm over the colony. These 

edifices were plain stout towers, built at the corner of a square walled and 

battlemented enclosure. The fine 

modern castle of Johnstown is built 

on the site of one of these fortalices, 

in the centre of Forth, and is itself 

the centre of many charming im- 
provements, among them an artificial 

lake, having several turrets of carved 

stone on its borders. Rathmacnee 

Castle has been preserved in its orig- 
inal condition, and is, perhaps, the 

representative ancient type of those in 

the barony of Forth, as Bargy Castle 

— the former residence of Beauchamp 

Bagnal Harvey, who was executed by 

the Government in '98 — is the most 

interesting in the other barony.* 




Bargy Castle. 



* Forth (forward, or foremost) and Bargy (from biorg, a defence), are Anglo-Saxon words, indicating the con- 
ditions under which the colonists fortified themselves. 



WEXFORD. 



S05 



Ballyteague Castle, the largest of these edifices, on an inlet of Ballyteague 
Lough, was the residence of John Henry Colclough, a leader in '98, who was 
captured with Harvey on one of the Saltee islands, and executed. 

Three miles, with commanding prospects on either side, leads us from Johns- 
town to Wexford, before entering which we pass Cromwell's Rock, where the 
Puritan butcher planted his guns to bombard the town. It was betrayed into a 
surrender, and the garrison was put to the sword. Wexford is a town of very 
great antiquity, and was a prominent theatre of action before and after the in- 
vasion. Strongbow dwelt here ; his sister was married to Raymond le Gros here ; 
and from here Henry H. took ship- 
ping for England, on Easter Monday, 
1172. It received a charter in 1318. 
In 1462, the Lancastrians, under Sir 
John Butler, seized it, but were beaten 
in the field by the Earl of Desmond, 
who held a parliament here the fol- 
lowing year. In 1 641, if was a chief 
post for receiving military supplies 
from abroad for the Confederates. In 
1649, Cromwell re-enacted here the 

11 T^ 1 1 1 /- • Selsker Abbey. 

slaughter at Urogheda, and confis- 
cated the castle and corporate property. After the Boyne, it declared for William ; 
and, although most peaceable, and not encouraging the organization of the United 
Irishmen, it was goaded into insurrection by the cruelty of government officials, 
and became the centre of the most gallant campaign on record of peasants with- 
out weapons, commanded by priests and gentlemen without military knowledge, 
against the ably officered and fully equipped royal army and militia. 

Wexford town is situated on the Slaney (named after Slainge, chief of the 
Firbolg colony, who landed here thirteen hundred years before the Christian 
era), and is connected on the north with the opposite side of the river by a 
bridge (722 feet), which, with the Causeways, is 1,559 feet long. Upon this 
bridge the "Insurgents" terribly retaliated the atrocities of the royalists in '98. 
As in medieval walled towns, the streets are so narrow that even in the Main 
street two carriages cannot pass, except in special widenings. Half way in this 
street was the bull-ring, a small market place, in which the Cromwellian massacre 
took place. In the last century the town consisted chiefly of two parallel streets 
within and one street without the old wall. A fine range of quays, half a mile 




So6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




St. Eden's Monuinoit. 



in length, and from sixty to eighty feet wide, have been constructed, and many 
other improvements made in town and suburbs. Portions of the old wall and 
five of the towers are still to be seen, and show that the former was twenty-two 
feet high, supported on the inside by an earth-rampart twenty-one feet thick. 

The most remarkable of the church 
~-~~^ "^ ruins is that of St. Selsker — a cor- 

ruption of St. Sepulchre — near the 
west gate, within the wall. It occu- 
pies the site of a Danish edifice, and 
was founded in 1190, under com- 
bined circumstances of faith and 
romance. Young Roche, of Artra- 
mont, being in love with the daugh- 
ter of a poor burgess, was sent to join the crusade. Returning from Palestine 
he found his parents dead, and himself at liberty to crown his early love. Alas, 
his beloved, hearing he was slain in battle, consecrated her life to prayer and 
entered a convent. Inspired by her truth, the hero also made a vow of celibacy, 
founded this monaster)^, which he dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre for which he 
had fought, and became its first prior. It is a memorable spot. Within the older 
precincts was signed the first treaty with the Anglo-Normans, by which King 
Dermot MacMorrough invested them with the lordship of Wexford. Selsker 
Abbey was richly endowed, and its prior a lord of Parliament. It was destroyed 
by Cromwell, who carried off the plate, and sent the fine chime of bells to Chester, 
whence they were afterward transferred to River Street Church, Liverpool. 

Almost directly across the country, on the western border, is the town of New 
Ross, beautifully situated on the Barrow. It was 
founded by the daughter of Strongbow, experi- 
enced the iron hand of Cromwell, and was the 
scene of a great contest in '98. From the heights 
pleasant views on all sides are obtained, and a 
sail down the river to Waterford, sixteen miles, 
presents beautiful scenery, which is especially im- 
posing at the confluence of the Barrow and Suir. 
Midway between the towns of Ross and Wex- 
ford is the hill of Carrickbyrne, a famous camp of the '98 patriots. 

From Wexford to Enniscorthy the country Is often very attractive, generally 
fertile, and frequently adorned by art. There is a road on either side of the 




Aiiount Font at Ferns 



WEXFORD. 



507 



Slaney, but the most interesting course is a sail up the river itself, which receives 
many tributary streams, upon whose banks — the Banna, for instance — some 
beautiful views are found. Two miles northwest of Wexford, and beyond 
Artramont, where there are some venerable cedars of Lebanon, is Ferry-Carrick, 
Avhere the Slaney flows through a narrow channel. On the north side of the 
gorge, rising on a pinnacle, as if a portion of it, is a lofty square tower, generally 
supposed to be a portion of the first Anglo-Norman castle built in Ireland. 
There is, however, a doubt thrown upon its identity as a part of Fitz-Stephen's 
castle, which is said to have occupied a site on the opposite bank of the river. 

Above Ferry-Carrick the Slaney spreads into what seems a lake, with richly 
wooded banks, the country rising 
gradually therefrom, backed by the 
distant mountains of Black-stairs 
and Mount Leinster and White 
Mountains — the conical Sleivebuy 
to the north, and nearer, the his- 
torical Vinegar Hill, which senti- 
nels the equally historical Ennis- 
corthy. The latter is a prosperous 
town which has extended consider- 
ably of late years. To facilitate 
the trade by the Slaney, two quays 
have been built, and for the better 
ingress and egress to and from the 
town — the principal part of which reaches along the abrupt banks on either side 
— level lines of roads have been formed. The Castle, one of the earliest Anglo- 
Norman structures, a square body with round towers at each corner, was built by 
Raymond le Gros. The Roman Catholic Church, designed by Pugin, is an im- 
posing ecclesiastical edifice. The beautiful and rich valley above and below Ennis- 
corthy and the windings of the river, can be viewed effectively from Vinegar Hill, 
a most fertile quartz elevation, nearly four hundred feet high. The town and the 
hill were the scenes of terrible conflicts in '98. The latter was a great camp 
of the patriots, who, with little arms and less ammunition, were surrounded and 
finally dislodged by Lieutenant-General Lake, at the head of twenty thousand fully 
equipped troops. Enniscorthy is about in the centre of the county, and north of 
it are the noted towns of Corey and Ferns. The former, although of some 
antiquity, is chiefly remembered as the scene of a battle in '98 ; the latter, now a 




Augustitiian Abbey Ruins. 



5o8 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



small and insignificant town, is of great antiquity. The modern Cathedral of St, 
Eden, erected in 1816, was built on the site of an ancient church founded by St. 
Eden, or Aedan, a. d. 598, to whom there is a finely carved monument — repre- 
senting him in full pontificals, his mitre on his head, and his short crozier, 
baculum, across his breast — in the present church. Adjoining the church are the 
ruins of the Augustinian Monastery, founded by MacMurrough, the remains of 
which preserve traces of beaut3^ Here, according to tradition, he lay concealed, 
awaiting the arrival of his allies. Among the few antique relics are a cross in the 
• churchyard wall and a font of rude construction among the broken gravestones. 
On an elevated position over the town are the remains of Ferns Castle, a once 

formidable pile, which ranked among the 
most famous in Ireland, and is yet among 
' its more interesting military remains. 

— It occupies the site of MacMurroug-h's 

palace, and was originally erected by 
Strongbow. It was repeatedly destroyed 
and re-edified ; was a royal castle, held 
by a constable, under the Tudors ; was 
occupied by the Irish in 1641, and its 
demolition was effected by Sir Charles 
Coote, who committed great slaughter 
and permanently ruined the town. The 
remains, with a massive tower entire, 
form a particularly striking feature of 
the country for many miles around. This 
tower contains a small chapel with a 
groined roof, the interior of which has 
been fitted up within a few years. Among the legends associated with this castle 
is one given by the author of A Tour in Ireland in i 748 — that Catherine de 
Clare, under cover of hospitality, for years committed horrible murders in it, by 
inviting the rich and leading inhabitants, and when they were in the midst of 
mirth pushing them through a trap-door. Mr. Hall says the story is somewhat 
borne out, as Catherine was the wife of Sir Thomas Masterson, Elizabeth's con- 
stable at the castle ; " and it is well known," he adds, " that such treacherous out- 
rages were frequently practiced on the native Irish by the English settlers during 
the reign of ' good Oueen Bess.' " 




Ferns Castle. 



SLIGO. 




S/igo Abbey — Cloisters. 

The county of Sligo presents mainly the leading characteristics of Mayo and 
Roscommon, which form respectively its western and southern boundary. It 
has, however, f^ne features of its own. The surface is varied, having extensive 

509 



Sio PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

plains near the sea-coast, backed by lofty mountains. The interior is hilly, inter- 
spersed with streams and lakes. The Ox Mountains extend along the west into- 
Mayo, and the whole of the south is rugged, rising into the Curlew Mountains on 
the Roscommon border. The lakes most remarkable for size are Gill, Arrow, and 
Gara. Glencar, with its lonely lake, lies at the southern base of the limestone 
range of mountains extending from Benbulben to Glenade, the principal sum- 
mits being Benbulben, 1,722 feet; Kings Mountain, 1,965 feet; and Truskmore, 
2,115 f^st above the sea. On the other side of the glen, which is eight miles 
long, Gullogeaboy Mountain is 1,400 feet high. 

Excursions can be made in all directions from the town of Sligo, the county 
seat, and than which no town in the kingdom enjoys more diversified, more beau- 
tiful, or more improved surroundings. From it — owing to the excellent roads 
recently constructed — almost every point of interest is accessible. Sligo town 
owed its foundation to the erection of a castle by one of the early Norman lords, 
Maurice Fitzgerald, in 1242. Ten years subsequently he erected the famous- 
abbey, the foundation of which is sometimes credited to O'Connor Sligo, who 
was a liberal benefactor to it. The town is situated on an arm of the sea, five 
miles from the Atlantic, in a deep valley, nearly surrounded b}' hills and moun- 
tains of a remarkable character. It is divided by the river Garrogue, which 
connects Lough Gill with the ocean. Fraser thinks Sligo presents a more 
business appearance than any other town in Connaught, owing to the spirit and 
enterprise of its traders. In the older parts of the town the streets are narrow 
and ill-paved, but in the new, convenient markets and stores have been erected 
and the quays greatly improved. Among the striking buildings is the new Town- 
Hall, in the modern Italian style. It contains the borough court; and our view 
of it was taken during the trial of three prominent Land League reformers — 
Michael Davitt, James Daly, and John B. Killen — which accounts for the multi- 
tudinous gathering of people in the neighborhood. 

The abbey in its original form was destroyed by fire in 141 4, and soon after 
rebuilt in the style of which we have the remains. It is a splendid ruin, of very large 
dimensions, divided into several apartments. The first has a beautiful window 
of carved stone, under which is the altar, likewise of cut stone. Here are two 
ancient monuments — one bearing date 1616, and the other belonging to one of 
the O'Connor kings. The latter is in good preservation; at the top is repre- 
sented the Saviour on the cross, and below, in separate compartments, are the 
kneeling figures of O'Connor and his wife, in the act of supplication. The 
steeple' is still entire, supported upon a carved arch, the inside of which is also 



SLIGO. 



5" 



carved. Adjoining tiiis are the cloisters, three sides of a square of beautifully 

carved little arches, of about four feet in height. Almost all the pillars are 

differently ornamented, and one in particular is very unlike the rest, having a 

h u m a n head 

on the inside 

of the arch. 
Two miles 

south east of 

Sligo is the 

romantic and 

beautiful 

Lough Gill, 

containing 

many wooded 

islands of all 

dimensions, 

on the largest 
of which — 

Church Island 
— are some 
in teresting 
ruins. From 
the water's 
edge of the 
southern 
shores of the 
lake the rug- 
ged gneiss 
mountains of 
Slieve Daeane 
and Slish ab- 
ruptly rise to 
an elevatioi 
of about 870 

feet, their steep acclivities covered with plantations. Gill, with all its beauties, 
IS nearly embraced within the grand demesne of Hazelwood. On the peninsula 
between Sligo and Ballysadare is Knocknarea, 1,078 feet above the bay, whose 




Sligo Abbey — Nave and Choir. 



512 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



waters nearly lave its base. Rising solitary and smooth, its flat top crowned 
with a sepulchral tumulus, it is a strong contrast to the rugged mountains around. 
From the summit a magnificent view is obtained — inland as far as the lofty heads 
of Croagh Patrick and Nephin, and seaward from the Stags of Broadhaven to the 

stupendous cliffs 
of Slieve League. 
At the southern 
base is the glen 
of Knocknarea, a 
chasm three-quar- 
ters of a mile in 
length, thirty feet 
wide, with perpen- 
dicular walls forty 
feet high. Plan- 
tations on the top, 
and indigenous 
trailing plants 
and ferns on the 
vertical sides, add 
to its naturally 
weird character. 

On the road to 
Ballyshannon, 
four miles from 
Sligo town, is 
Drumcliffe, with 
its ancient crosses 
and remains of a 
round tower. 
Near Ballysadere 
is a church into 
which has been 

built some portions of an ancient temple of a highly ornamental character. On 
Innismurry, thirteen miles from Sligo and five from land, are numerous early 
Christian edifices, erected on pagan ruins ; and numerous sculptured stones with 
the oriental combination of the circle and the cross. 




Town-Hall, Sligo. 




Cojij-riglil, 1813 by ILomas.IieUy, H«w lurk. 



l§1114Ii 



Ims7ioiccn ITfl.-^r'^t' Pf ITo 




Copyriflil, 1S78, by Tlioumt Kolly, Nuw York. 



DONEGAL. 




Donenxl Castle. 



Donegal, the most western of the three northern counties of Ireland, is un- 
surpassed in wild beauty of mountain, glen and lake, while its coast presents 
some of the finest cliff scenery in the world. It also possesses great sources of 
interest for the antiquary, as well as for the geologist and botanist. Geographic- 
ally the county is almost a peninsula, fully four-fifths of its outline being washed 
by the Atlantic Ocean, whose waves break on the cliffs with unceasing splendor, 
and pour into numerous inlets, estuaries, bays and loughs along its marvellously 
indented coast. It is suggested that the clearest idea of the physical conforma- 
tion of the county maybe gained by consulting the maps and fixing on a chain of 

513 



514 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

mountains, extending from the south, near Lough Derg, northward to Bloody 
Foreland, as forming a backbone to it. In this chain are the greatest elevations 
and the deepest passes in the Donegal highlands, the highest points being Barnes- 
more (1,491 feet), Bluestack (2,219 feet), Aghla (1,953 feet), Slieve Snaght 
(2,240 feet), and Errigal (2,466 feet). At the eastern extremity of the pass 
of Barnesmore is Lough Mourne, the descending waters from the mountains on 
the western extremity being gathered into Lough Esk. To the north of the Gap 
are the Croaghgorm or Bluestack Mountains, a noble group, drained on the east 
by the Reelan, a tributary of the Finn, and on the west by the Eany-more and 
Eany-beg, which seek the sea at Inver. To the west the Binbane range runs to 
the ocean, and ends in the magnificent precipice of Slieve League (1,964 feet), 
between Carrigan and Teelin Heads, and over which is the perilous ridge called 
One Man's Path. The main chain northward is cut by another pass, parallel 
to the Gap of Barnesmore, in which is Lough Finn, over whose dark waters 
Aghla rises precipitously. The river Finn, issuing from the eastern extremity 
of the lake, drains an extensive highland district on its way to Stranorlar, is 
joined by the Mourne at Lifford, where it spreads out into the Foyle, and thence 
flows, "a majestic stream," to Derry. Close and parallel to the pass of Lough 
Finn is another, which intersects the country from Gweebarra Bay to Sheep- 
haven. Above Lough Barra, where the Glendowan Mountains and Slieve 
Snaght almost meet, at the point where the watershed is attained, begins the 
deep Glen Veagh, which, emerging from the Derryveagh and Doorish ranges 
(2,143 feet), opens into the valley of the Owencarrow. The Glendowan Moun- 
tains, going off in a southeasterly direction from the Derryveagh range, makes 
an angle, at the base of which lies the beautiful Lough Gartan. North of the 
great pass of the Gweebarra and Glen Veagh is another, between the northern 
side of Slieve Snaght and Errigal, and running, like the others, from northeast 
to southwest. The valley is drained on the east by the Culabbar, north of which 
are Aghla-mor, Aghla-beg, and Muckish (2,197 feet), which, declining to the 
North, breaks off into the abrupt and grand precipice of Horn Head. West- 
ward are Loughs Dunlewy and Nacung, guarded by Errigal and a mountain 
ridge that stretches also to the ocean, and terminates in the Bloody Foreland. 

Entering the county at Lifford, the chief town, excursions can be made to all 
the points of attraction north, west and south. Pursuing the route up the valley 
of the Finn, we pass Raphoe (a few miles from which is Convoy, the birthplace 
of the revolutionary patriot general, Richard Montgomery) to Stranorlar, and 
thence to the Gap of Barnesmore, the most magnificent defile perhaps in Ireland. 



DONEGAL. 515 

The grandeur of its proportions at once arrests the attention. It is more than 
three miles in length, cutting right across a mountain range, shut in by threat- 
ening walls of rock, that on the north — Croaghconnellagh — being 1,724 feet 
high, and the south — Barnesmore — 1,491 feet. The steep escarpments at 
some points run into beetling cliffs, at others are furrowed by rents, dark and 
ghastly, cut by the mountain torrents. The absence of trees produces a desolate 
effect in the pass without lessening its sublimity. The wilder characteristics are 
somewhat modified by the vegetation, grass, purple heather and golden furze, 
which clothe the sides, producing a rich variety of those beautiful hues which are 
only to be caught in mountain scenery. On the right are the ruins of a small fort- 
alice, the possession of which must have been of great importance, commanding 
the only route through which the O'Donnells and O'Neills passed in their warlike 
excursions. In this house Rapin, the Huguenot historian, is said to have com- 
piled his voluminous history. Emerging from the gap we have a view of Lough 
Esk, with its extended woods, in which the red deer is still to be found. The 
gradually descending road leads to the town of Donegal, beautifully situated at the 
inland extremity of Donegal Bay, where it receives the waters of the Esk. The 
scanty remains of the Franciscan Abbey, founded in 1474 by Nuala, the wife of 
Hugh Roe O'Donnell, are of classic interest. It had already suffered by warfare 
and pillage, when a fire broke out on the 19th September, 1601, which occasion 
was seized by the then O'Donnell for an assault to drive out the English, who, 
under his cousin, Nial Garv, had occupied it. The monastery never recovered 
the ruin of that event. After some years, when the war between O'Donnell and 
the English ceased, the monks crept back from their hiding-places and established 
themselves in houses built from and among the ruins of their monastery; and 
under this shelter was compiled the celebrated "Annals of the Four Masters," 
which, in the words of O'Curry, "mus.t awaken feelings of interest and respect, 
not only as the largest collection of national, civil, military and family history 
ever brought together in this, or perhaps any other, country, but also as the final 
winding up of the affairs of a people who had preserved their nationality and in- 
dependence for a space of over two thousand years,, till their complete overthrow, 
about the time at which this work was compiled." '■'' 

A short distance from the abbey are the remains of Donegal Castle, the 

* The chief of the "Four Masters" was Michael O'Cleary, of the Franciscan Order, and his collaborators were 
Ferfessius O'Maelchonaire, Peregrine or Cugory O'Dubhghennain, men of consummate learning and of approved faith, 
and to these subsequently was added the cooperation of other distinguished antiquarians. The worli consisted of 11,000 
quarto pages, beginning with the year of the world 2242, ending with the year of our Lord 1616 — thus covering the im- 
mense space of 4,500 years of a nation's liistory. See O'Curry's Lectui-es, VII. 



5i6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




ancient seat of the O'Donnells, which was given by royal grant in 1601 to Sir 
Basil Brooke, by whom it was improved into " a beautiful Elizabethan building, 
combining defensive with domestic purposes." 

The most important town in the southern district is Ballyshannon, through 
which the great body of water from Lough Erne flows, and pours its tribute to 
the sea in a fine waterfall over a ledge of rocks ten feet above ordinary tide level. 
Bundoran, a few miles west, and the extreme southern point of the county, is 
the most celebrated watering place on the whole northwest coast of Ireland. The 
sandy beach is extensive, and the surrounding country most interesting. Lough 
Derg and the celebrated penitential retreat, St. Patrick's Purgatory, may be 

reached from 

^ ^" -' Donegal or 

_—=^ — ^S=-— Ballyshannon. 

ji^Sj ^ ^ By the latter 

route fine views 
of Lough Erne 
are obtained, 
and the tourist 
will have an op- 
po r tu nity of 
visiting the de- 
mesne of Brown- 
hall and seeing 
The Pullens, a 
remarkable 
natural wonder. 

It is a dark ravine, nearly a mile in length, deeply shaded with woods, through 
which a mountain torrent plunges and flashes, in a series of cascades, amidst a 
profusion of ferns and mountain plants ; now turning an acute angle and disap- 
pearing under a cavernous arch, then reappearing beyond ; anon flowing out a 
placid stream, only to lose itself suddenly in a dark chasm sixty feet deep, from 
which it emerges under a natural bridge. As S. C. Hall said, description can but 
faintly convey its extraordinary character, nor can the artist represent its singular 
beauties. The town of Pettigo is situated on the southern border of a wild and 
desolate mountain region, in which, some four miles to the north, lies Lough Derg, 
its waters expanding in highland solitude amidst a wild waste of moors. Near 
Pettigo are the remains of the ancient fort or keep of Myler Magrath, an apostate 




Liima I y/i 



DONEGAL. 



S17 





Grianati of Aileach — Exterior. 




Bishop of Down, who was made Bishop of Clogher by Elizabeth in 1570. Since 
1782 the care of the Lough Derg pilgrimage has been exercised by priests of the 
diocese of Clogher, and in 1880 

the bishop, Dr. Donnelly, com- ^^^ 3=^ 

menced the building of an hos- i" -"= ~ 

pice on Station Island, for the • ^^ 

better accommodation of the / 

pilgrims. His title to do so 
was contested by Sir John 
Leslie, who claimed the pro- 
prietary over the island, as 
well as the bed of the lough 
over which the hospice pro- 
jected. An unhappy source 
of permanent excitement and 
ill-feeling seemed impending, 
but was happily averted in 
1 88 1 by Sir John Leslie giving 
a lease forever of the part 
covered by the projection, and withdrawing all claim to Station Island itself. 

Letterkenny, the gate to 
J^- ■ the Donegal Highlands, the 

second town of the county, is 
built on a hillside overlook- 
ing a large expanse of coun- 
try. It was here that Theo- 
bald Wolfe Tone was arrested 
after the defeat of the French 
fleet in October, 1798, having 
been recognized by a former 
fellow student at a breakfast 
given to the French officers 
by Lord Cavan. To the north 
is Killmacrenan, the foster- 
place of St. Columbkill, where 
he founded an abbey, which 




Grianan — Bird 's-eye View. 



endured for a^es. At a short distance is the Rock of Doon, the inauguration 



518 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



place of the chiefs of Tirconnell. When the investiture took place the O'Don- 
nell was attended to this rock by the successor of St. Columbkill, and his marshal, 
and surrounded by the estates of the countr)-. Putting a pure white, unknotted 
rod into his hand, the abbot said : " Receive, sire, the auspicious ensign of your 
dignity, and remember to imitate in your government the whiteness, straightness 
and unknottiness of this rod, to the end that no evil tongue may find cause to 
asperse the candor of your actions with blackness, nor any kind of corruption or 
tie of friendship be able to pervert your justice ; therefore, in a lucky hour, take 
the government of this people, to exercise the power given you with freedom and 
security." Among the people, "time out of mind," the interior of the Rock has 
been esteemed as the headquarters of the fairies ; a cave in the eastern side being 

regarded as the vestibule 
to an immense chamber, 
which is the council hall 
of "the good people." 

The bold and large pe- 
ninsula of Inishowen, from 
position, elevation and ex- 
tent, is decidedly the most 
remarkable natural object 
on the northern shore. It 
lies between Lough Swilly 
and Lough Foyle, and 
contains 197,860 acres. 
The larger part of the centre is occupied by mountains, the highest summit, that 
of Sleive Snaght East, being 2,019 feet above the sea. A trip over the peninsula 
or around Its coast roads, with the admirable books The Donegal Highlands and 
Doyle's Toui-s in Ulster convenient, will prove full of interest. Going northward 
to Inishowen, or returning from it, the tourist must not omit visiting one of the 
most famous of the pagan antiquities of Ireland, the Grianan of Aileach, long the 
chief residence of the princes of the northern Hy-NIall. Its erection is attributed 
to the Tuath-de-Danans, and It stands on the summit of a hill 802 feet high, over- 
looking Lough Swilly on one side, and southward commanding the view far over 
the green slopes of the Laggan. " A broad, ancient road, between two ledges of 
natural rock, leads to the summit. Following this road three consecutive ramparts 
must be passed through before you reach the cashel, or keep of the fortress. 
Traces of other external ramparts have been discovered, although in a state of 




Castle of Myler Magrath, overlooking Lough Erne. 



DONEGAL. 



519 



great dilapidation. Upon a close inspection this castle will be found to be a 
circular wall enclosing an area of 77 feet 6 inches in diameter." — Ordnance Memoir 
of Londonderry. It is a cyclopean structure. Within the thickness of the wall, 
beginning on either side of the entrance, are three galleries or platforms, ascended 
by side stone steps. The interior view of this fort shows its ground-plan. The 
outermost enclosure on the hill contains five and a half acres ; the second, four 
acres ; and the third, one acre. Within the cashel there is about one-fourth of 
an acre. For years this remarkable monument of ancient days was neglected, 
but it has been restored on the lines of the original foundation ; and a full account 
of it was read by Dr. Bernard before the Royal Irish Academy in 1878. Gri- 
anan is held by Irish lexicographers to mean "a royal seat," and "a summer 
house, or " sunny chamber," 
and Aileach, a " stone house." 
It is certain that this place 
was the principal palace of 
the northern Irish kings from 
the earliest period to a. d. 
iioi, when it was destroyed 
by Murtaugh O'Brien, king 
of Munster, in revenge for 
the destruction of Kinkora 
in 1088, by Donnel Mac- 
Loughlin in asserting his 
claim to the monarchy of Ire- 
land as representative of the northern Hy-Niall. A familiar northern legend is 
that a troop of Hugh O'Neill's horse, fully armed and holding their bridles in 
their hands, are in a magic sleep in a cave under Aileach, waiting to have the 
spell removed to rush to the aid of their country. 

Malin Head, the most northern point of Ireland, is the extremity of Inish- 
owen. It is eight miles from the neat little town of Malin ; and, rising only 226 
feet above the sea, it is rendered remarkable by the admiralty signal tower. 
Although not possessing the general wild magnificence of the Donegal coast line, 
Malin Head is picturesque even in calm weather, and when the sea is impelled 
by a storm around it, the scene is truly grand. 




Donegal Castle — From Below. 



CAVAN. 







Old Mill. 



The inland county of Cavan was the an- 
cient principality of East Brefne, or Brefne 
O'Reilly. It contains no exceptionally fine 
features, but was celebrated in the wars for 
the fastnesses formed by its woods, lakes and 
bogs, which gave shelter and security to its 
native possessors. It was one of the Ulster 
counties formed in 1584 by the lord deputy, 
Sir John Perrot, and derived its name from 
the principal seat of its native rulers, which, 
situated in the centre of a rich tract, is still 
the chief town. The surface of the county 
is mainly like that of Monaghan, undulating 
with small hills and valleys. Its principal 
Interest is in being the cradle of the great 
river Shannon, which rises in the barony of 
Tullyhaw, parish of Templeport, townland of Derrylaghan, at the head of a wild 
district called Glangavelin, and in the valley between Cuilcagh and Langanacal- 
lagh Mountains, close to the base of the former. The source or spring is of a 
circular form, about 50 feet in diameter, called the Shannon Pot, or more gen- 
erally, Leigmonshena. The water boils up in the centre, and yields a continued 
stream about eight feet wide and two feet deep in the driest season, Avhich runs 
four miles an hour. In rainy weather it overflows its banks and all low grounds 
in the vicinity. There are many caverns and clefts on the top and sides of Cuil- 
cagh which receive the rain ; and, as no streams descend, the drainage of the 
mountain and its subterranean springs combined form an outlet here, and give 
birth to the Shannon. Two miles from its source it receives the Owenmore, and 
seven miles farther on, having gathered its tributaries and swelled to a con- 
siderable river of fifty to sixty yards wide, with a varying depth of from five to 
ten feet, it enters Lough Allen in force. Its onward course has been indicated in 

the article on Leitrim, of which, after leaving Lough Allen, it becomes a boundary. 

520 




CopjTigUt, 1882, by Tliuujas Kellj-, New York. 




Coi>j-Tlght,1879, by Thomas Kelly, New York. 



WATERFORD. 




Cromlech at Knockecn. 



The district now embraced by the maritime county of Waterford was desig- 
nated by Ptolemy as the home of the Menapii, a tribe which also occupied Wex- 
ford. Prior to the seventh century small tracts of the most southern coast are 
designated by other names ; but these appear to have merged, at an early period, 
into that of Decies, from the preponderating influence of the Desii or Decii, a 
tribe that finally occupied the central and larger portion of the county at the 
time of the Anglo-Norman invasion. In the twelfth century the chiefs of the 
tribe took the name of O'Feolain, and Melaghlin O'Feolain, prince of the Decii, 
was made prisoner at the siege of Waterford by Strongbow, and was only saved 
from death by the mediation of MacMurrough. He was the last chief who 
enjoyed the full powers of his predecessors ; but although Raymond le Gros 
overran and depopulated their territory, and the Poers, who had been given the 
custody of the greater portion of it, in ii 77, had waged sanguinary warfare on the 

521 



522 



PICTURE SO UE IRE LA ND. 



people, the political existence of the Decii was not at once terminated, as in the 
interval between 1169 and 1206 the deaths of three of their kings are recorded. 
A charter of King John to the citizens in 1206 shows that the territory of Water- 
ford had been already erected into a county, the justices of assize and other 
officers of which were inhibited from exercising any authority in the city. This 
fact controverts, as Lewis ( Topographical Dictionary) says, the generally received 
opinion that the first counties were formed by John in 12 10. 

The surface of the county is largely mountainous, and the valleys, watered 
as they are by the Suir, the Blackwater, the Bride, and others of lesser note, 
picturesque and beautiful. The principal mountain ranges are Knockmeledown, 
which divides Cork, Tipperary, and Waterford ; the Cummeragh and Monevullagh, 
which divides the count}^ Into almost equal parts ; and Drum, southwest of Dun- 

garvan Bay. The Suir, which 
^^ rises In Tipperary, forms a great 

part of the northern, and its 
estuary the whole of the eastern 
boundary of the county. The 
Blackwater enters the county 
from Cork at Its western ex_ 
tremlty, and turning southward 
at Cappoquin, falls into Youghal 
Bay. The beauty of the Black- 
water cannot be portrayed by 
pen or pencil. Many think It 
unrivaled among Irish rivers, 
and Mr. Inglis does not think 
It surpassed by the descents of the Danube, the Rhine or the Rhone. It 
must be seen to be appreciated, and, In addition to numerous boats which ply at 
all times on It, the summer tourist can take advantage of the steamer which 
makes daily trips from Youghal to Cappoquin. Two miles above Youghal the 
estuary of the Blackwater assumes the river character. The breadth of the river, 
the height of its banks, which are either covered with woods or adorned with 
ruins, or cultivated lands, demesnes and castles, the depth and romantic char- 
acter of its lateral glens, enlivened by sparkling streams, all combine to render 
the embouchure and tidal part of the Blackwater remarkably attractive. A short 
distance from the bridge at Ferrypoint, on a bold, rocky eminence, is the ruins 
of RInorew Castle, formerly belonging to the Knights Templars. Farther on is 




Up the Blackwater — Rincrew. 




WA TERFORD. 523 

the glen of Glendlne. In the charming grounds at Ballinatray are the ruins of 
Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros was buried. At Strancally the waters 
of the Bride unite with the Blackwater. Here was one of the Desmonds" 
strongholds, which had, it is said, a subterranean passage, in which their enemies 
were entrapped and destroyed. One person escaped, and, proclaiming the in- 
famy, the castle and cave were destroyed. The new castle, a few miles distant, is 
a beautiful structure, rising gradually from the water's edge. On the opposite 
bank, near Villiarstown, which is a steamer station, is the magnificent forest of 
Dromana, one of the finest and most extensive demesnes in Ireland. Here was 
born Catherine, the famous Countess of Desmond, who, at the age of one hun- 
dred and forty years, went to London to demand of James I. the restoration of 
her fortune, of which she had been deprived by the attainder of the last Earl 
of Desmond. Her death was 
said to have been caused by a 
fall from a cherry tree, into 
which she had climbed. It was 
brought by Raleigh from the 
Canary Islands, and was the 
first planted in Ireland. 

Cappoquin, seventeen miles 
from Youghal, at the turn of 
the river where it sweeps round 
from Lismore, is finely situated 
in the valley of the Blackwater, 
and is the commencement of ip Hu Bi,u..jo\,~-Strancaiiy. 

the most beautiful part of it. 

As we approach, and for a considerable distance on the river, the rich verdure of 
the banks is picturesquely contrasted by the effect of the Knockmeledown Moun- 
tains looming in front, the southern acclivities of which becoming more distinct 
as one advances, seem almost to reach the water's edge in the lovely spot in 
which Cappoquin is situated, and which formerly commanded the pass of the 
Blackwater. 

About three miles to the north, in the centre of a vast bog and moory tract, 
which continues to rise back to the higher peaks, is Mount Melleray, or the Abbey 
of St. Bernard la Trappe ; and the tourist on the Blackwater should no more 
miss visiting it than wayfarers on the Alps pass the doors of Mount St. Bernard. 
It is easily reached in less than an hour by the new road from Cappoquin over 




524 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the mountains into Tipperary ; and the reminiscences of a recent visit will perhaps 
excite interest sufficient to suggest a personal examination by travellers who 
might otherwise be satisfied with a distant view of its exterior rising among the 
mountain tops. 

This oasis, literally flowing with milk and honey, in the desert of morass and 
mountain, has a wonderful history. In the first fury of the French revolution of 
1830 the monks of La Trappe were expelled from their home and found a refuge 
in Ireland. A vast tract of moorland at the base of the Knockmeledown Hills 
lay at the time utterly barren, given up to rocks and heather, and to all seem- 
ing hopelessly irreclaimable. Some fifteen hundred acres of this unpromising 

moorland were 

^^^ 'W=I^^ granted at a shil- 

ril^^"^^^ ""^ ^\ ling an acre to the 

-^. - homeless monks 

^ by Sir Richard 

Keane, the father 
of the present pro- 
prietor of Cappo- 
quin. How they 
toiled and dugand 
cleared through 
-= long years, till 

they created a fer- 
tile soil on the bare rocks, and made fields bloom 
where the heather hardly found nourishment 
before, only those can imagine who remember it 
as a wilderness, the very approach to which was 
a toilsome path over hills, almost impassable for 
horses, and constantly torn by fierce mountain floods. When the monks came, 
it would scarcely feed a goat ; now the tilled portion is like a gentleman's de- 
mesne. 

Looking at the remnants of this old road to-day, when engineering has sup- 
plied a new and pleasant one around the base of the hill, the simple labors of the 
monks in dragging the lime for their reclamation works, and the stones for their 
buildings, up the rocky gullet seems incredible. In time the community got the 
chance of purchasing, in the Landed Estates' Court, the fee-simple of the prop- 
erty which their unceasing industry had created, and ever since they have gone 




Up the Blackwater — Knockmeledown 
in the Distance. 



JFA TERFORD. 



525 



on, flourishing, and building, and improving, until to-day there are smiling crops 
or meadows covering their little estate, and in a thick shelter of trees has arisen 
a, group of buildings which revive at once the traditions of Irish hospitality, piety 
and learning. The monastery forms a quadrangle, three sides of which are occu- 
pied by the cells, the refectory and reception-room, used for the accommodation 
of the community and of visitors, and the college buildings, while the fourth is 
closed by the pretty convent chapel. The community who originally came to 
Ireland have been succeeded year after year by fresh accessions, and upwards of 
a hundred brethren, about thirty of whom are priests, and most of them Irishmen, 
now carry on the various functions of the institution under the government of 
a Lord Abbot. The discipline of the Order of La Trappe is perhaps the most 
rigorous of all the 
Catholic institutes. 
Self-mortification is 
enforced even in the 
case of the little 
weaknesses which 
we are accustomed 
to regard as most 
natural and least 
sinful, and all our 
pet follies are exer- 
cised with a stern 
vigor from which 
poor human nature 
"would Infallibly 

shrink were it not supported by the most heroic constancy. Yet to see those 
cheerful, healthy brethren, who can neither talk, nor eat, nor sleep In the manner 
of other men, one cannot fail to recognize the Inspiring strength, if not attraction 
of the system which sustains them and builds their tranquil happiness on the 
conquest of human passion. 

Six hours' sleep is the single relaxation of their day, if we except the time 
consumed in their scanty meals ; all the rest goes in labor and In prayer. Up as 
the clock strikes at two o'clock In the morning, in summer and in winter alike, 
whether the stars be shining or the rain pelting, or the snow freezing one's bones, 
they give themselves up to prayer in the first instance, and for hours the mass- 
bell keeps eternally ringing, while the monks, in their long serge dresses and 





AX^"-!. 




Mount Melhray. 



526 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



heavy cowls, and such of the sleepy strangers as please, gather round the altars. 
at which twenty or thirty masses are celebrated daily. Then, while the birds are 
yet asleep in the trees, and oftentimes before a glimmer of daylight is in the sky. 



.^ 






Mount Mt:lU-ray Chapel. 



the entire community, priests as well as lay brothers, hasten to their labors within 
doors or without. Most of them are occupied in the fields or about the farm. 



WA TERFORD. 



527 



They do everything for themselves. They plow, they mow, they hay, they rear 
the vegetables, they manage the dairy, and produce cheese, and cream, and butter 
of the most exquisite flavor atid freshness. Others manufacture bread that seems 
to taste better than any other bread in the world. Others manage the house- 
hold ; others look after the comfort of the visitors. Others, again — men of dis- 
tinguished talent and vast erudition — constitute the corps of professors who 
conduct the college attached to the monastery, wherein a hundred students assem- 
ble from all parts of Ireland, Great Britain, France, and even America. 

So the day passes with work and prayer, and not a word spoken from sunrise 
to sunset among the workers. Surely this is the hardest ordeal of all — this per- 
petual silence, which (in the eyes of human vanity, at least) is worse than death. 
Of course the brethren are exempted 

who are told off to receive and enter- -i — jl^-jL:^ 

tain visitors (and who, by the way, 

when they do speak, speak with an ^ 

easy and graceful familiarity as re- V ' /Jft> £&- 

mote as anything can be from the ^ 
typical gloom of the recluse). The 
college professors are also at liberty 
to perform their functions with all 
the necessary freedom of speech, and 
special arrangements apply to the or- 
dinary business of the house ; but for 
all the rest the rule is inexorable — 
the silence of the grave, unless when 
they pray or chant God's praises. But 

let not the record of these ascetic severities frighten the reader into the belief 
that he must go to Mount Melleray in sackcloth and ashes, and discipline his face 
into a moody or lugubrious cast. 

It must not be omitted that for the "guests," of which there are always 
several at the abbey, the most comfortable accommodation is provided — with 
substantial and abundant food. Visitors of all denominations are welcomed with 
generous hospitality, and, as the one so freely quoted has written, "you will be 
entertained right royally as long as you wish to stay ; the whole working of the 
establishment laid open to your inspection and cheerfully explained — you may 
pass week after week there, till the diet and the breezes have braced your nerves 
to iron, and may go away after all without receiving the most delicate insinuation 




^-Jl^:. 



Weir at Lisinore. 



528 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



that your entertainment has cost you anything." The library in Mount Melleray 
contains two noticeable manuscripts: one, illuminated, written in Latin on vellum 
by St. Bernard seven hundred years ago, is in perfect condition, and likely to 
last centuries yet. The other, a psalter of a thousand pages, is printed with the 
pen by a monk of Melleray named Ryan, who had been a sailor, and brother to 

a former abbot of this 
abbey. 

The mountain summits 
of the range rising behind 
Mount Melleray are all 
distinguished by the pre- 
fix Knock. Knockmele- 
down, the highest, is 
2,609 ^^^t in height ; and 
the others, which lie 
around it in the order 
given, are Knockanask, 
1,591; Knocknafallia, 
2,199; Knockanare, 2,149; 
and Knocknastorkin, 
2,084 fs^t. 

From Cappoquin to 
Lismore the road lies 
through noble demesnes 
and fine plantations, that 
at Salter-bridge contain- 
ing some of the most ven- 
erable evergreen oaks in 
the kingdom, and all sup- 
plying delightful sylvan 
scenery along the left 
bank of the Blackwater. All the views at and about Lismore are strikingly 
beautiful ; and the view of the little town itself, from the bridge by which we ap- 
proach it, not second to any in the district. The Blackwater above, as below the 
bridge, flows through one of the most verdant valleys, wide enough to show its 
greenness and fertility, and diversified by noble single trees and groups, while in 
some places the banks are thickly covered with foliage. Then there is the bridge 




On the Way to the Sicir. 



WA TERFORD. 



529 




St. Declan's Well. 



itself, with a central arch of 100 feet span ; the castle, with Its Ivy-grown towers ; 
and the deep-wooded lateral dells that carry to the Blackwater its tributary 
streams. Nothing, says a lover of the picturesque, can surpass in richness and 
beauty the view from the 
bridofe, when, at evening, 
the deep woods, and the 
grey castle, and the still 
river are left In shade, while 
the sun streaming up the val- 
ley gilds all the softer slopes 
and swells that lie opposite. 
LIsmore is a place of high 
antiquity, and the castle, 
which rises from a steep 
rock Immediately over the 
river, one of the best pre- 
served baronial edifices in the country. Robert Boyle, the philosopher, was 
born in It (,1626-7), and William Congreve, the dramatist, it is said, was born in 
the town. Mr. Hall thinks the prospect from the castle "sublime to a degree" ; 
the mighty mountains on either side of the winding river ; and Immediately 
beneath, the thick foliage of gigantic trees overhanging It ; while here and 
there, both above and below it, the eye falls upon a salmon weir, forming a 

kind of artificial cataract, the 
A distant murmur of which adds 

Jm a lulling softness to the beauty 

^ of the scene. 

Before proceeding up the 
Blackwater from Youghal, the 
tourist may cross the long 
bridge and visit some points 
of peculiar interest on the 
Waterford side of the river. 
The fishing village of Ard- 
more, anciently an episcopal 
see, is six miles distant. The Round Tower and several ecclesiastical remains 
attest Its antiquity. St. ' Declan founded a religious establishment here In the 
very Infancy of the Christian era, and his well is still highly venerated 




Roitnd Tower at Ardniore. 



530 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



The Round Tower, a very fine specimen, is in some particulars unique. It is 
built of elaborately cut stone ; the circumference at the base is forty-five feet, 
the entrance thirteen feet above the ground, and the storeys are exteriorly indi- 
cated by beltings. The villages of Aglish and Clashmore, situated low down in 
a valley running parallel to the Blackwater, pleasantly diversify this romantic tract 
of hilly' country. From Ardmore a road leads to Dungarvan, the second town 
of the county, situated on the bay of the same name, and on a point of land 
between the estuaries of the Bricky and the Calligan. It was a place of strength, 
and vestiges of its old walls and of an abbey and fortifications remain. The 
town is a place of considerable resort in the bathing season. 

A bone cave at Shandon, near Dungarvan, discovered some twenty-three years 

ago, was the first Irish cave which pro- 
,- r--- duced animal , remains belonging to the 

,=="" _ pleistocene period. In it were found 

remains of the mammoth, horse, bear, 
wolf, and reindeer. Another cave, dis- 
covered near Cappoquin, in 1879, ^^ <^f 
large size, and appears to have been 
occupied at a very remote period by 
bears, portions of whose skeletons are to 
be met with in the lower deposits of the 
floor. The chief interest in this discovery 
rests in the fact that remains of the great 
Irish elk {Alcgaceros Hibernicus) were 
found in it, in conjunction with the bones 
of other deer and of bears, and along 
with a polished greenstone celt (neolithic) 
and several stone rubbers. There were also some remarkable evidences met 
with of the association of man with the great Irish elk. Professor Leith 
Adams, who removed and packed these remains, says that many of the bones 
of the megaceros were evidently split for their marrow, and several elk cannon- 
bones were found fashioned into awls and gauges, showing that man was not 
only cotemporaneous with the giant stag of Ireland, but also may have helped 
to exterminate it. The explorations of this cave promise to open out a new era 
in the prehistoric history of Ireland. 

Helvick Head, the southern boundary of Dungarvan Bay, is four miles dis- 
tant, and rises 231 feet above the sea. The southern coast eastwards is very 




Coumshinaun. 






»5--*'« 







^ 

^ ^ 
§ S 






WA TERFORD. 



531 



interesting. From Island Castle, near Bonmahon, John O'Mahony effected 
his escape after our unavailing efforts in Kilkenny, Tipperary, and Waterford, 
in the autumn of 1848, to retrieve the results of the movement of Smith 
O'Brien and his comrades, in the summer of that year. Further eastward is 
Tramore, a famous watering-place. The strand, which is extensive and firm, is 
very attractive to bathers. The town is picturesquely situated on the hill, which 
rises abruptly from the bay, and on a cliff-point to the left is a tower sur- 
mounted by a figure — popularly known as " the Metal-Man " — pointing to the 
dangers of the coast. Five miles to the north is the Cromlech of Knockeen. 

The splendid Suir, from its northwestern associationship with the county to 
the sea, affords in itself a series of pleasures which will be appreciated by more 
even than the tourist in search of the picturesque. The Valley of the Suir 
might inspire an enthusiasm which would far outrun our space. The rich and 
beautiful scenery along its 

course is backed up by the ^ ~ "~^^ =^ ^-=^ 

wild, steep, and shadow-cast- ^ 

ing slopes and varied outlines 
of the Galtee, Knockmele- 
down, and Commeragh Moun- 
tains. The latter, forming the 
backbone of Waterford, are 
seen from all points. The 
sailor hails them from the sea 
on the south, as the " High- 
lands of Dungarvan," while 
both slopes inland are associated with legend, history, and romance. Under the 
shadow of its summits are eight small lakes within a circuit of three miles. 
Three of these are near Mon-a-BullacIi, the mount of the summit, which is 2,500 
feet high. One of these is called the Lake of the Grey Phantom ; and the most 
interesting, perhaps, and largest is Coumshinaun, the valley of ants, a circu- 
lar basin which appears to have been formed by a land slide, or is mayhap 
the crater of an extinct volcano. It occupies a deep dell, half a mile long and 
half that in breadth, with precipitous rocky sides ; the scenery wildly sublime in 
its character. Amid these lonely and grand solitudes the writer spent many, 
many days, some of them with O'Mahony while eluding the Government 
authorities, and organizing the gallant peasantry in 1848; the magnificent 
scope of scenery, and the local lore of his patriot friend beguiling the 







Tubber Grieve. 



S32 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



emergencies and unceasing trials of outlawry, to which both were subjected. 
One of the most memorable occasions was spent at Coumshinaun, to the appro- 
priate name of which he can bear witness. Associated also with this stirring 
period is the fine forest range from Gurteen to Coolnamuck, especially the latter, 
and Millvale, which gave shelter to the outlaws, and where frequently the local 
leaders met from both sides of the Suir to report intelligence and receive instruc- 
tions. Coolnamuck was in possession of the Walls from the time of Henry II. 
till 1852, when it changed hands under the Encumbered Estates Act. From Clon- 
mel to Carrick the Suir passes through a delightful and rich country. Opposite 

Carrick is the suburb of Car- 
rick-beg, and over the latter 
-^ "^ the elevation of Carrick-a- 

■^ nook, where the Nationalist 

^ ^ -^ % " farmers and peasantry of 

~ ~ Waterford congregated on 

rising in September, 1848. 
About five miles to the 
southeast, and three miles 
from the Suir, under shelter 
of the Commeraghs, is the 
village of Portlaw, where the 
Nationalists had their first 
conflict with the authorities 
on the morning after the ris- 
ing. Portlaw is a hive of 
industry ; the factory, which was started some fifty-five years ago, being the 
centre of a thriving population of 4,000 persons. Almost exclusively devoted to 
the production of cotton fabrics from the raw material, it is surpassed by few 
mills even in the great manufacturing centres of England. It is claimed that 
the success of the Portlaw Factory illustrates the suitability of the country and 
the population for manufacturing industry on a large scale, and that neither race 
nor religion presents insuperable obstacles to Irish progress ; for, says Walker, 
"the bulk of the population are Celts, and of 3,915 inhabitants 3,684 are 
Roman Catholics." Adjoining Portlaw is the magnificent demesne of Curragh- 
more, the seat of the Poers. Here are woody scenes, extensive lawns, and vast 
sweeps of wild and mountainous country with glimpses of river scenery. The 
mansion was barricaded and fortified in '48. Not far from the grounds is 




The Castle of Kin-Corr. 



WA TERFORD. 



533 



Tubber Grieve, a holy well in high repute. Another point of interest on this 
river is the Castle of Kin-Corr, " the head of the Weir." 

The position of Waterford, one of the most ancient maritime ports in 
Ireland, renders it, perhaps, unsurpassed for a great commercial station. Its 
most ancient name was derived from a woman, Dacaech, in the era of Heremon, 
twelve centuries B.C. ; it was called Loch-Dacaech, the bay of Dacaech. In 
A.D. 155 it was known as Cuan-na-Grian, the harbor of the sun; afterwards 
as Glcanii-na-Gleodh, the valley of lamentation, from a sanguinary battle 
between the Danes and Irish, in which the latter burned the town to the ground. 
It was called Port Largi, the " port of the thigh," on account, as some claim, 
of its shape ; while others say this name was derived from Larac, a Norse 
chieftain, who died there in 951. Its present name is of Danish origin, either 
from Vader-fiord, the ford of the father (Odin), or Vedra-fiord, which, according 
to O'Donovan, signifies weather bay. 
The Danes made a permanent settle- 
ment here under Sitric, about a.d. 
853, when the town was built and 
walled. For the period it was a place 
of great strength, and the scattered 
notices of this colony which have 
reached us show that the inhabitants 
maintained an independent and sov- 
ereign authority, and were the terror, 
if not masters, of a large extent of 
country. Within a century and a half 

we read of three Danish kings of Waterford laying waste or occupying Meath, 
Kildare, and Dublin. In 1003 the stone circular castle on the water's edge was 
built, and it still stands, a remarkable monument near the end of the quay, and 
bears the name of its founder, Reginald's Tower. The arrival of the Anglo- 
Norman invaders here was signalized by an act of wanton cruelty. Forced back 
into his entrenchments by a sally of the . men from Waterford, Raymond le 
Gros suddenly drove the stock of cattle he had seized throughout the neighbor- 
hood upon his assailants, and in the confusion obtained a victory amidst great 
slaughter, capturing seventy persons, many of whom were principal citizens. 
For these large ransoms were offered ; but the English historian tells us that 
their limbs having been first broken, they were cast into the sea, over the 
cliffs at Dundonolf. Waterford was immediately made headquarters by Strong- 




Chiirch Riuji at Faithleoo 



534 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Dunmore Pier. 



bow. Henry II. arrived here in October, 1172: an assembly of the clergy, 
held in this city in 11 77, promulgated the English King's title to dominion in 
Ireland. At Easter, 1185, John, son of Henry II., landed here as gover- 
nor, and again as king in 121 1. Richard II. arrived here in October, 1394, 

and again in 1399. Money was 
coined here at various times in 
the reigns of John, Edward I., 
and Edward IV. By statute 
£=1^ 25th of Henry VI. (1447) it was 
made lawful for the mayor and 
citizens of Waterford to assem- 
ble forces "against the Powers, 
Walshes, Grants, and Daltons." 
For its loyalty to Henry VII. 
against the pretensions of Simnel 
and Warbeck, the city received 
from the monarch the motto, Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia. The city was 
taken by Cromwell, through the daring exertions of two brothers Croker, one 
of whom was killed. The other was rewarded with the confiscated estate of Sir 
William Coppinger, whose daughter, however, won and wed the capturer. 
After James II. had fled from the Boyne, he bade farewell to his crown and 
dominions here. On the evacu- 
ation of the Jacobite garrison ""'- ^^^_ 
William III. entered ; and, after __ 
his discomfiture at Limerick, he 
embarked at this port for England. 
Waterford is distinguished in these 
latter days by being the birth- 
place of Richard Lalor Shiel, 
the " twin " emancipator, and 
author of Evadnc and The Apos- 
tate ; William Vincent Wallace, 
the composer, and Thomas Francis Meagher, the patriot orator and soldier. 

A splendid view of the confluence of the Suir, Nore, and Barrow is obtained 
from Faithlegg Hill, over Cheek-point, turning which we go directly into Water- 
ford harbor and passing Creaden Head, to Dunmore, on a wild eminence over 
which is a remarkable Druid altar in a circle of perpendicular stones. 




4s 



Druid Altar near Dunmore 



^ 




^ 



TYRONE. 




Castle Caulfield. 



Tyrone, an inland county of Ulster, was inhabited in the time of Ptolemy 
by the Scoti. It was afterwards known as the district or kingdom of Kinel- 
Eoghain, and frequently called Tyr-owen, from which its present name is 
derived. From the earliest period of the Irish annals it was known as the chief 
seat of the O'Nials, a race who were, according to Camden, kings in Ireland 
before Christianity, " tyranizing it in Ulster before the coming of St. Patricke." 
Even in the time of Henry III. the royal dignity attached to them ; that 
monarch, in a letter to the Irish princes, styles O'Neil king of the people of 
Tir-oen. The chiefs of the race fill a large space in history, making their terri- 
tory eminently conspicuous. The careers of the O'Neills, who flourished during 
the Tudor era, attracted particular attention, and are subjects of thrilling interest 
to romancers, poets, and historians. Shane O'Neill assumed the sovereignty of 
Ulster, and maintained so vigorous a war against the English that they were 
determined to destroy him by any means. He was finally treacherously entrap- 
ped at a feast, and murdered ; and his head, set up on a pole, long grinned over 
the battlements of Dublin Castle. The great Hugh O'Neill, one of the most 
535 



536 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



distinguished soldiers of Europe, was for years more than a match in war and 
diplomacy for the ablest agents of Elizabeth. The surface of the country is 
greatly diversified by varieties of hill and dale, rising to elevated tracts in the north 
and west — the Munterlowny (1,432 feet) and Sperrin Mountains, between which a 
glen road connects some of the principal towns. The Sperrin Range is the 
loftiest and best defined. One thousand feet high near Strabane, they extend 
in a curve thirty-six miles, and reach the highest altitude, 2,236 feet, at Sleive 
Sawel. The lowlands present some views of rich and tranquil scenery. Omagh, 
the chief town, is in the centre of the county ; other prominent towns are New- 
town-Stewart, beautifully situated on the west bank of the River Mourne, under 
the hills called Bessie Bell and Mary Gray ; Dungannon, over which stood the 

castle of the O'Neills ; Stra- 
bane, at the junction of the 
Mourne and the Foyle ; Clog- 
her, now a village, the seat 
of an ancient bishopric ; and 
Gortin, the principal town of 
the mountainous region. The 
continuous warfare necessarily 
led to the erection of many 
forts and castles ; among the 
most striking of which was 
Castle Caulfield, built by Sir 
Toby Caulfield, who was re- 
warded by Elizabeth and 
James I. with large grants, on 
one of which, in the barony of Dungannon, he built his fine house. It was 
dismantled by Sir Phelim O'Neill in 1641, and has remained a picturesque ruin. 
About three miles from Clogher is the romantic glen of Altadaven ; formerly, 
according to tradition, a seat of Druidism. It is a most charming retreat, lined on 
either side by perpendicular walls of rock over 100 feet high, and surrounded by 
enchanting scenery. St. Patrick, it is understood, visited this spot, and removing 
all traces of Druidic rites, converted the retreat into a place of Christian 
worship. O'Hanlon, in his deeply interesting Lives of the Irish Saints, gives 
the picture of his chair, which is reproduced on this page. 

William Carleton, the illustrious novelist, was born at Prillisk, in Clogher 
parish. 





Copyriglil ISSO "by Thomas Kellj-jKew York. 



Russell & Struthers, Engr'e N.Y, 




Copjrlghl, 1819, by Ihomiu Kelly, Mere Yoit. 



KILKENNY. 




Ruins at Kdls. 



Kilkenny, an inland county of the province of Leinster, was, according to 
Ptolemy, inhabited by the Brigantes. It was afterwards, and still anciently, part 
of the kingdom of Ossory, a name modernized from Uisraigagh, indicating its 
position {Uisge, water; and rioghachd, kingdom,) as the kingdom between the 
waters. The Suir, after flowing between Tipperary and Waterford, strikes Kil- 
kenny west of Pilltown, and forms the southern boundary save where it flows be- 
tween the city of Waterford and Ferrybank. On the east the Barrow bounds it 
for twenty-six miles. The Nore is the principal river, flowing through the centre 
of the county for forty miles, receiving in its winding course the King's River, 
the Dinan, and several lesser streams. The Nore is a rapid river, subject to 
great floods, and its banks present some good views, justifying the encomiums of 
many noted travellers. Mr. Tighe says that from Mount Juliet to New Ross, by 
Thomastown and Inistioge, it presents picturesque scenery, varied by ruined 
537 



538 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

castles and abbeys, by rocks that turn the course of the river, by green meadows 
that skirt its banks, or by steep hills clothed in foliage. From the union of these 
splendid rivers — so graphically described by Spenser — the southern part of the 
county was sometimes called Comar na tri Uisge, the high district of the three 
waters. The countries of Ely O'Carrol and Hy Carthin comprised some of 
the northwestern part ; and the kingdom was sometimes tributary to Leinster, 
and sometimes to Munster. 

Beyond its ancient limits to the north, a portion of the Queens county, con- 
taining some 1,900 acres was annexed to Kilkenny by act of Parliament, at the in- 
stance of the Earl of Ormond, " to repress the outrages committed by the Fitz- 
patricks against his tenantry, who, when tried in the Queens county, were 
always acquitted, but when brought to Kilkenny never escaped with impunity." 
In general the aspect of this county is hilly, but the elevations are rarely of so 
precipitous a character as to preclude the operations of agriculture. The 
marble and coal are esteemed its most valuable natural productions. The coal, 
anthracite, celebrated as " one of the wonders of Ireland, in producing fire with- 
out smoke," is found near and around Castle Comer. The coal field, which in 
this county is about six miles square, extends into the Queens county. The 
collieries were not worked until a few years before 1726, at which time Boate 
issued his " Natural History of Ireland." A number of men had been for years 
engaged in raising iron ore, which was smelted with charcoal from the numerous 
woods of the county, and having worked through the seam, came unexpectedly 
to a vein of coal. The first pits sunk were unprofitable. The general outline of 
the coal district is basin-shaped. The valley is considerably elevated, and the 
hills which limit it are in several places 1,000 feet above sea level. 

Kilkenny was formed into a county by King John ; and at the succession 
of James I. was chiefly occupied by the Graces, the O'Brenans, the Wandes- 
fords, the Butlers, the Roothes, the Harpurs, the Walshes of the mountains, 
the Shortals, and the O'Sheas. The latter have since changed their name to 
Shee, to distinguish themselves from the O'Sheas of Cork. Justice Shee, 
of the Queen's Bench, England, the first Catholic elevated to the English judi- 
cial bench since the days of James II., was of this family. Chief Justice Shea, 
of the Marine Court, New York, is of the Cork branch. The Walsh family, 
like manj^ other Anglo-Normans, adopted an Irish surname and title, and was 
known for ages as " Branach," which signifies in Irish a Welchman. At an early 
period it had extensive possessions in Waterford and Kilkenny. For four 
centuries it was only inferior in estate and power to the Butlers and Graces. It 




\: 



<^^ 



\ 






KILKENNY. 



539 




■enjo3'ed the palatinate title of Baron Shanacher, and " Walshe's Country " con- 
tained twenty-six castles besides Castle Howell, the principal residence. Near 
the southern boundary, not far from Waterford city, and on the Kilkenny side of 
the Suir, are the striking ruins of Grandison, or, as it is popularly called, Granny 
'Castle. It is of considerable extent. On the land side the large square keep, 
and the remains of circular towers on the margin of the river, with extensive 
•courts and lines of fortified walls between, indicate its baronial splendor as well 
as its military strength. Its erection is credited to Pierce Butler, eighth Earl of 
Ormonde, Lord Deputy of Ireland in 1521, whose wife, "the great countess," 
according to tradition, held a court here for " the trial of rebels," and huno- 
them from a window. The respect or fear she inspired remained for centuries 
among the people, and not many years since they frightened children by her 
name, threatening them with. Mazighrced ny Ghirord, her maiden name, Margaret 
Fitzgerald, having been second 

daughter of Gerald, the eighth __ J^^"^ -^..^^-^^ —^ 

Earl of Kildare. Carte says 
•she had " great wisdom and 
courage uncommon in her sex," 
and Stanihurst, " she was man- 
like, and tall of stature " ; a 
■" lady of such port that all the 
estates of the realm couched to 
her. So politic that nothing 
was thought substantially de- 
bated without her advice." 

Two roads lead eastward 
from Tipperary to the city of 
Kilkenny ; the one from Nine-Mile House to Callan ; and the other, from Car- 
rick-on-Suir, by Windgap and Kilmagany to Kells. Callan, on the King's River, 
is a place of antiquity, formerly a walled town, having charters from six English 
sovereigns, and was the scene of many a feudal fray between the great rival 
houses of Fitzgerald and Butler. In 1659 it resisted Cromwell for a few 
days. Picturesquely situated on the left bank of the river are the remains 
of St. Catherine's Abbey, which retains marks of considerable extent and 
splendor. Kells, also on the King's River, is likewise a place of great antiquity, 
although reduced to insignificant houses and cabins. It was founded by one 
of Strongbow's followers to overcome the Tipperary clans ; and to check the 




f^-'-^x :^'^ 



St Cathoiiu's Ahb(.y. 



S40 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



forays of the latter, there once existed a chain of forts along the river from- 
Kells to beyond Callan. The founder, Geoffrey Fitz-Robert, also built an 

extensive religious house and filled it with, 
monks from Bodmin in Cornwall. It expanded 
by degrees, and the extent of the ruins proves 
that the establishment must have been of mag- 
nificent proportions when dissolved by Henry 
VIII. At a short distance to the south is the 
Round Tower of Kilree, fifty feet and six 
inches in circumference near the base ; and 
little less than one hundred feet higrh, although 
dismantled at top. Close by is a stone cross 
eight feet high, of a single block of freestone, 
ornamented with orbicular figures or rings. A 
few miles to the southeast is the picturesque 
and venerable pile of Jerpoint Abbey, the 
beauty of whose ruins, which occupied three 
acres, command the admiration of the architectural antiquary and the lover of the 
picturesque. It was founded, according to Archdal, for Cistercian monks in 1180, 

by Donough, -- \:^s».- -^^^-^^ 

King of Ossory. _^_--" = -= ~- -^-=«--='---=--^^--- ^^ 

It was liberally _^ ~ :_: ;zzr 

endowed by him ^ 

and others, and 

the monks were 

confirmed in 

their possessions -^j..^, 

by John as "lord 




Tower atid Cross at Kilree. 




of Ireland." The 
Abbot was a lord 
of parliament ; 
and the last who 
exercised this 
dignity was Oli- 
ver Grace, young- 
er brother of Baron John Grace of Courtstown. The architecture combines 
the Anglo-Norman and Gothic styles ; and the less ancient divisions of the 



General View—KMs Abbiy. 



KILKENNY. 



S4I 



tuilding, which are strictly in the pointed manner, are probably, in the opinion of 
Mr. Brewer, contemporary with the Abbeys of Dunbrody and Tintern, but the 
execution is greatly superior, and the general design partakes more of lightness 
and elegance than is seen in either of these much-admired relics. Its battle- 
ments are noteworthy, "as being identical with many found in the north of Italy, 
but very unlike anything either in England or Scotland. They give a foreign 




Jerpoint Abbey , from tlic Kivcr. 

look to the whole building." In wealth and grandeur Jerpoint was esteemed 
fourth among the mitred abbeys of Ireland. , On its suppression it contained 6,500 
acres demesne lands ; and these, with its other estates, were granted to Thomas, 
the tenth Earl of Ormond, at a rental of less than ^50. The abbey contained 
many ancient and beautiful monuments, among them one of two figures (habited 
in the costume of the twelfth century) to the founder, who died and was here 
interred in 11 85; others to ecclesiastical dignitaries; and to members of the 



542 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Butler, Grace, Walsh, and Fitzgerald families, down to the seventeenth century. 
What remains is extremely interesting and elegant, but wantonness and neglect 
have gone far to destroy this once extensive and beautiful structure. 

The city of Kilkenny has a county attached to itself, comprising an area of 
over 17,000 acres of the surrounding district. It is built on the Nore, which 
divides it into unequal portions ; the larger, containing the castle, is on the 
western bank, and near the northern extremity on the same side is the older 
part, called Irishtown, separated from the former by the small river Breagh, 

which here falls, 
into the Nore. 
Two bridges, St. 
John's and 
Green's, connect 
the banks of the 
river. Like old 
cities in general, 
the streets are 
irregular, but the 
castle, the cathe- 
dral, and the im- 
posing remains 
of ancient struct- 
ures, give it an 
air of remarkable 

magnificence. There are numerous public edifices, churches, colleges ; and the 
usual municipal and county buildings add to its respectability. From the Anglo- 
Norman invasion to the parliamentary war in 1641, Kilkenny appears to have 
been the most important inland town. Of its earlier history little is recorded 
previous to 11 73, when Donald O'Brien, king of Thomond, compelling Strong- 
bow to retreat to Waterford, demolished the castle, burned the town, and laid 
waste the country. In 1192 the English seem to have obtained a firm hold, and, 
three years after, William le Marescjial rebuilt the castle and restored the town. 
A great council of the barons of the Pale was held here in 1294; and in 
1309 a parliament representing the same interest assembled and passed the 
most severe laws against English settlers who should adopt Irish customs, 
which were enforced by anathemas fulminated in the cathedral by the 
Archbishop of Cashel and other prelates who assisted on the occasion.. 




yerpoint Abbey — South. 



■ {g,^;->. — :;^-v-.S:^:ik:;^«— 



C^ v^ 




M 



H 



i 



KILKENNY. 



543 



In 131 7 Lord Roger Mortimer, Justiciary of Ireland, and the English nobles took 
counsel here to effectively oppose Edward Bruce ; and an army of 30,000 was 
assembled, and under the alarm the town was filled with refugees. In 1327 and 
1330 parliaments were held here, and an army assembled to drive Brien O'Brien 
from Urkuffs, near Cashel. The next year a parliament was adjourned to this 
place from Dublin; and in 1341 "a grand meeting of the principal nobility 
and the chief officers of the king's cities took place, to petition for the better 
government of Ireland." Parliaments were also held in 1347, 1356, and 1367, 
the latter by Lionel, Duke of Clarence, at which one of the most cruel of the 
anti-social enactments, " the Statute of Kilkenny," was adopted ; also in 1370 and 
1374, when Sir William de Windsor was sworn into office as lord-lieutenant. 
Richard II. arrived here, from Waterford, in 1399, and was entertained for 
fourteen days by the Earl 
of Ormond. Certain cus- 
toms and tolls having 
been granted for the pur- 
pose, the town was almost 
encompassed with walls in 
1400; and in 141 9 another 
grant was made for the 
same purpose. In the 
wars of York and Lancas- 
ter, the Earl of. Desmond, 
an adherent of the latter, 
took and plundered the 
town ; and in 1499 the 
burgesses, led by their sovereign, marched out in aid of the Butlers 
against Tirlough O'Brien, but were defeated. The last parliament held 
here was in 1536, and was adjourned to Cashel; but Kilkenny still continued 
to be the occasional residence of the lords-lieutenant, for which purpose 
Henry VIII. gave the corporation the site and precincts of the Blackfriars' 
Monastery. In 1641 the city was seized by Lord Mountgarret, and became 
the headquarters of the Catholic Confederation ; and in the following year, 
October 24th, the famous parliament, consisting of lords, prelates, and repre- 
sentatives deputed from all parts of the kingdom, assembled here in the house 
of Mr. Robert Shee, son of Sir Richard Shee.* The lords (spiritual and 

* The historical mansion was recently occupied as " the Kilkenny Commercial House." 




InU>ior Viccij of Ji>po^?it 



544 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Shee's House, in tuhich the Cojtfederaie Parliament was keld. 



temporal) and commons assembled in one room. Nicholas Plunket was speaker, 
and both lords and commons addressed their speech to him. Patrick Darcy 
represented the members of the judiciary that used to sit in parliament. The 
lords had an upper room for private consultation, and the result was delivered 
to the commons by Mr. Darcy. The clergy, who were not qualified to sit as 

barons, held a convocation in 
another house ; and a press was 
set up, at which the decrees of 
the Council were printed. The 
treaty concluded between the 
Confederation and the Lord- 
Lieutenant Ormond, was upset 
by the arrival of Rinuncini, 
the Pope's Nuncio, in 1645. He 
interdicted the city and suburbs. 
In 1650 Cromwell invested Kil- 
kenny. The Governor, Sir 
Walter Butler, on being sum- 
moned to surrender, replied : " I am commanded to maintain this city for His 
Majesty, which, by the power of God, I am resolved to do." Having received 
orders from Lord Castlehaven, " that if not relieved he should not for any 
punctilio of honor expose the townsmen to be massacred, but make as good con- 
ditions as he could by a timely surrender," Butler at length yielded. The gar- 
rison got good terms, Cromwell 
declaring "they were gallant fel- 
lows, and that he had lost more 
men in storming that place than he 
had in taking Drogheda." Thus 
the city and castle, having been in 
possession of the Confederates for 
nine years, were given uji. The castle 
was purchased by James Butler, in 
1 39 1, from Thomas le Spencer, and 
from that period to the present, amid 
all the mutations of time, and the 
havoc and feuds of civil strife, it has remained in possession of this family. 

The entrance to Kilkenny, wrote Willis, and the romantic view of the Casde 




KILKENNY. 



545 



V n^J 



ia- 



The Chair of St. Kiernan. 



of the Ormonds rising above the river, remind me strongly of one of the views 
of Warwick Castle. The first impression of the town from a cursory glance 
is extremely fine ; the Cathedral of St. Canice, the castle, and other very 
imposing structures coming into almost every view, from the unevenness of the 
oTound and the happily chosen sites of all these edifices. It is well worthy of 

attention as an existing model, to a great 
extent, of the old feudal castles of the 
Anglo-Norman barons of the middle ages, 
proudly overlooking the city, which grew 
up under its shadow. It is finely situated 
on the banks of the Nore, commanding 
charming views of the most picturesque 
parts of the city and of the surrounding 
country. 

St. Canice's Cathedral is the most inter- 
esting of them among the numerous eccle- 
siastical remains in Kilkenny. It is a large, cruciform pile, extending 226 feet 
from east to west, and the transept measuring 123 feet. It was founded about 
the year 1180, by Bishop Felix O'Dallany, and was finished some two centuries 
later. It was a magnificent edifice, and scarcely inferior in magnitude, complete- 
ness, and ornamentation to St. Patrick's and Christ's Church in Dublin. Ware 
states that Bishop Ledred, soon _ 

after 13 18, expended large sums ^=^ %_ 

in embellishing the cathedral, and ^T"^ '^K 

particularly in filling the win- 
dows with stained glass, which 
were destroyed by the Crom- 
wrellian fanatics in 1650. Indeed, 
the fabric sustained great in- 
juries during these wars, and has 
been undergoing restoration to 
our day. It contains many fine 
monuments ; and in the north 
transept is a stone seat, the Chair of St. Kiernan, who is believed to have 
preceded St. Patrick on the mission by thirty years. Six feet and a half from 
the cathedral is a Round Tower, in good preservation, 108 feet high and 40 
feet in circumference. At a short distance is the Well of St. Canice, the waters 




bt tanicc's LatJudt III 



546 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



of which are icy cold in the hottest day of summer. The Dominican, or Black 
Abbey, founded in 1225, is also in Irishtown, the oldest part of which old 
borough is " The Butt's Cross," where the people, between the ages of sixteen 
and sixty were compelled by statute to practice with the long-bow — "the bows of 

ewe, wyche-hasel, auburne, or other reasonable tree, according to their power" 

under pain of " two pence per month," or on every feast-day of " an half-penny 
per day." The Priory of St. John, founded by the Earl of Pembroke about 
121 1, was demolished to make room for a foot barrack but in the present century 
was re-edified into a parish church. From the number of its windows it was 
known as the Lantern of Ireland. One of the most beautiful of the ruins, the 
Franciscan Friary, is situated on the Nore. The body of the church is still 
standing, but roofless. The tower, formerly the centre of the building, is of light 

and pleasing proportions, resting on 
a well-groined pointed archway. The 
body of the church has long been used 
as a tennis-court, and other portions 
more recently as a brewery. 

Among the educational establish- 
ments of Kilkenny is a famous grammar 
school, founded by Pierce Butler and his 
wife, the noted Margaret. It received 
a new charter in 1684 from the Duke of 
Ormond, and was erected by James II. 
into the " Royal College of St. Canice." 
After the retreat of this monarch the 
institution resumed its original charac- 
ter, but continues to be known as the 
College of Kilkenny. Amongst the 
distinguished names associated with it as students are those of Stanihurst^ 
Swift, Congreve, Farquhar, Harris, the continuator of Ware, Provost Baldwin,, 
and Berkeley. John Banim, the author of the fine drama of Damon and Pythias, 
and several standard novels of Irish life, was born in Kilkenny ; also James 
Stephens, the patriot and revolutionist. 

This county is noted for its coal and marble. There is a quantity of marble 
rock through every part of it ; but the principal quarry is a short distance south 
of the city. The marble is black, and some of it very pure. It generally con- 
tains a variety of impressions of madrepores, of bivalve and of turbinate shells. 




The Well cf St. Canice. 



KILKENNY. 



547 



" Mytilites, turbinites, pectenites, tellinites, tubuporites, nautilites, and am- 
monites may be distinguished, and, perhaps, most of the testaceous marks 
usually found in such stones." About three miles north of the city, in the 
immediate vicinity of other quarries, and not far from the edge of the calcareous 
district, a little south of Methel Church, are the singular caves of Dunmore. 
The first cavern is irregularly shaped, of a large circumference ; the roof fifty 
feet high. Towards the left a narrow slippery passage leads to the interior, 
where a vast variety of stalactite forms, assisted by the inequality of the rocks, 
interest the spectator. The cave narrows, and again widens into a large apart- 
ment ; beyond are winding passages and other cavities, one of which, it is said, 
leads to the other side of the hill. The profound interior of these subterranean 
recesses is in many parts rendered fearfully interesting by the bold and threaten- 
ing character of the projecting masses of rock, revealed in shadowy indistinct- 
ness by the few and dim lights. 
The countless variety of stalac- 
titic forms is caused by the con- 
tinued dripping of water ; and 
among these and the various 
shapes assumed by calcareous 
sinter, the imagination, excited 
by the unusual situation, traces 
the resemblance of organ-pipes, 
pillars, and inverted pyramids, 
— a cross, an altar, and other 
objects which may occur to the 
recollection of the beholder. 

A stream passes through the cave at a great distance from the entrance. Near 
this stream, and in other parts of the cave, many skulls and bones have been 
found, some of the former enveloped in calcareous spar.* Never having been 
completely explored, report gave the caves an underground communication 
with Ormond Castle ; and the voices of people talking in the Tholsel are said to 
have been heard in the caves. 

At Bally Spellin and Castlecomer, both in the coal district, are chalybeate 
springs, whose waters are much frequented. The merits of the former were 




The Butt's Cross. 



* Tighe's Statistical Survey of Kilkenny, etc., Brewer's Beauties of Ireland. 



548 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



discussed nearly two centuries ago ; and Dr. Sheridan, the friend of Swift, cele- 
brated its waters in verse. 

"All you that would refine your blood, 
As pure as famed Llewellyn, 
By waters clear, come every year 
To drink at Bally Spellin." 

Castlecomer, a romantic village at the intersection of two roads, is on the 
estate of the Wandesfords. The old castle was destroyed, and the town sacked 
by the Nationalists in '98. The new " hall " is finely situated on a lawn, under a 
range of wooded hills, and bounded on the other side by the Ardera, a tributary 
of the Nore. 

Northwest of the city — eight miles distant, on the mountain road leadino- to 

New Birmingham, and Kille- 
naule — is the village of Tul- 
laroan, the centre of what 
was known as Grace's county. 
The district so named con- 
sisted of a vast tract, com- 
prehending, it is said, the 
barony of Cranagh, and ex- 
tending northwards by the 
liberties of Kilkenny and 
the River Nore, to the bor- 
ders of the Queen's County; 
and thence southwards along 
the borders of Tipperary to 
the liberties of Callan, form- 
ing a district nearly twelve 
miles long and half as wide. A mile and a half from Tullaroan is Courtstown 
Castle, the principal residence of the Graces, and from which they took the 
title Baron of Courtstown. They were descendants of Raymond le Gros, and 
the ruins of some twenty spacious castles, once owned and occupied by them, 
remain to attest their power and importance. The character of these citadels 
and castles may be illustrated by those of Courtstown and Inchmore. The 
former indicates the military stronghold. Inchmore — situated on an almost 
isolated peninsula on the Nore, in the barony of Cranagh — on the other hand, is 
of a palatial character, erected after the introduction of the open casement. 




The Franciscan Friary. 




^^ 









KILKENNY. 



549 



bowered windows, and ornamented gables, with tlie addition of defensive exterior 
and keep. The family came to final ruin by its adherence to the house of 
Stuart. The influence of Baron John Grace in behalf of William III. having 
been sought — with flattering promises of royal favor — by Schomberg, the baron, 
in prompt indignation, at once wrote on the back of a card : " Tell your master 
I despise his offer ; tell him that honor and conscience are dearer to a gentleman 
than all the wealth and titles a prince can bestow." The card chanced to be the 
six of hearts, which, in Kilkenny and neighborhood, is to this day frequently 
called Grace's card." 

In coming south from the city of Kilkenny to Waterford, the railroad keeps 
along the left bank of the Nore, passing near the village and mills of Bennett's 
bridge ; from 
which to Thomas- 
town the railway 
affords good 
views of the fertile 
and sweetly diver- 
sified country on 
either side, and .-^_. 
of the circumja- 
cent hills. The 
church and castle 
ruins, the keep 
of the old castle 
of Kibline, the 
Round Tower of 

Tulloherin, are suggestive contrasts of former ages to the gentle scenery around. 
The Thomastown Station, on an elevated site, commands views of the most 
attractive parts of the valley of the Nore. Thomastown is beautifully situated on 
the banks of the river, the principal part occupying the left. Founded by 
Thomas Fitzanthony Walsh, one of the earliest Anglo-Norman settlers, it con- 
tains many remnants of antiquity — square towers, parts of the fortified walls, 
and buildings. Five beautifully pointed arches constitute the ruins of the old 
Dominican Abbey, the present parish church occupying the site of the chancel, 
in which are many ancient monuments. The Roman Catholic Chapel contains 

* The nine of diamonds derived its title of " Curse of Scotland" from the Duke of Cumberland having written 
on it his sanguinary orders for military executions after the battle of Culloden. 




Roujid Tower at TuUohcrin 



550 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




'iVoodstock Demesne and Bridsre. 



the altar removed from the ruins of Jerpoint. Situated midway in the most 
interesting portion of the valley of the Nore, Thomastown is a good halting- 
place for the tourist. It has the honor of being the birthplace of Berkeley. 

Coming dourn the river we reach Instiogue, romantically situated on the right 

bank, and on the direct 
-^f ^^ ----- - _ route to New Ross on the 

Wexford border. As Fraser 
says, the high pastoral and 
woodland banks, the lovely 
meads formed by the graceful 
windings of the ample river, 
all tend to produce a suc- 
cession of pleasing, of beau- 
tiful scenes ; while the grey 
ruins of Grenane and Dy- 
sart Castles, rising in the 
centre of the narrow but verdant valley, impart to the whole a peculiar and very 
picturesque effect. Near Instiogue is the well-known demesne, Woodstock, 
where the river is crossed 
by an elegant bridge of ten 
arches. The woods extend 
for two miles up the. right 
bank of the river ; and the 
cultivated taste of its pro- 
prietor has made it famous 
many years ago. Here Mrs. 
Tighe dwelt many years — 
wrote some of her sweetest 
poems — and died in 1810. 

The climate of Kilkenny is 
considered one of the most healthful in Ireland, the freest from damps and fogs, 
because of the prevalence of limestone bottom, the absence of bogs and marshes, 
and the elevation of the great central plain. Although well adapted for manu- 
factures, the peojile are almost entirely thrown upon agriculture for support. 
Dr. John O'Donovan, the great Gaelic scholar, archaeologist, and savant, was a 
native of Atateemore, in this county. 




LodiTc School at Woodstock. 



LIMERICK. 




City of Limerick. 



The County of Limerick, to which so many heroic memories cling, possesses 
also eminent attractions for the antiquary and the lover of the picturesque. 
While its general character is flat, it is diversified by many hills, and in some 
parts by mountains of considerable elevation. The whole western district, from 
Loughill, on the north, to Drumcollagher is composed of an unbroken range of 
mountains, stretching in a vast but regular and beautiful curve. The northeast, in 
the barony of Owneybeg, is skirted by the Sleive Phelim Mountains, an exten- 
sive group, exhibiting a long array of high and domical summits, which penetrate 
far into Tipperary. On the southeast the level country is bounded by the 
Galty Mountains, the finest inland range In Ireland, rising precipitously to a 
5SI 



552 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



great elevation, forming the boundary of Limerick, and also stretching thence 
into Tipperary. In the neighborhood of Pallasgreen and Cahirconlish are the 
richest if not loveliest group of pastoral hills in the county. The Ballingarry 

hills, near the centre of the county, and rising 
from the high pastoral lands, are very striking. 
Knockfearna, the principal elevation, is conical, 
and rises to 949 feet, commanding views of the 
rich central plain of the county. Another con- 
spicuous height is Knockpatrick, between Shana- 
golden and the Shannon. This great river forms 
the entire northern boundary of Limerick from a 
few miles below, where it leaves Lough Derg, to 
its extremest western point, when it joins the 
County Kerry. This river in itself is an object 
Of special places within its view there will be found 




Druidical Remains. 




Druidictxl Rcinaih 



of surpassing interest 
occasion to refer. From its banks there 
stretches, in a southeasterly direction, a 
vast tract of land, which is justly con- 
sidered to be the richest in Ireland, the 
soil being in general a deep mellow loam, 
for the most part based on limestone, and 
fit for every kind of culture. The most 
productive tract, comprising about 100,000 
acres, is in the neighborhood of Bruff, 
Killmallock, Athlacca, and Hospital, form- 
ing part of the district called " The Golden Vale," which extends from Pallas- 
kenry to Kilfinnan and Kilfrush, on the Tipperary border, a distance of thirty- 
two miles ; and in breadth, from Drehid- 
tarsna, by the city of Limerick, to Abing- 
don, a distance of eighteen miles. The 
corcasses or low meadow lands which 
extend from the Mague along the Shan- 
non to Limerick city, have a substratum 
of yellow and blue clay, occasionally 
mixed with sand and gravel ; and the 
soil of other parts, not occupied by mountains, particularly west of the river 
Deel, which runs from south to north across the western part of the county. 




Druidical Temple. 



LIMERICK. 



553 



consists of a light loam, resting on limestone or stiff clay, and well suited both 
for pasture and tillage. Yet with such a considerable proportion of the soil 
favorable to the production of abundant crops, the complaint made by Arthur 
Young a century ago, that by far the least portion is under tillage, is not with- 
out application to-day. The remains of antiquity are various, as well as numer- 
ous, embracing round towers at Carrigeen, Croom, and Kilmallock, and the 
stump of one at Ardpatrick ; druidical remains, circles at Grange, and circular 




King John's Castle. 



forts at Kilpeacan, Shannid, and other places. Not long since there were the 
remains of some fifty religious houses, and castles were so numerous that their 
ruins are found within half a mile of each other. Bones and horns of the moose- 
deer have been found in different parts, from five to ten feet deep in the boggy 
districts. 

The city of Limerick from a very early period, as Hall states, held rank as 



554 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



perhaps the second city in Ireland ; and before its historic walls were defeated 
the Anglo-Norman chivalry, the Cromwellian Ironsides, and Williamite army 

flushed with previous victories. It is 
advantageously situated on the Shan- 
non, and was anciently called L7i,im- 
neach-na-linu-ghlas. Limerick of the 
azure river. The corporation is very 
ancient, the mayoralty dating back to 
the time of Richard I., ten years be- 
fore London obtained the distinction. 
In 815 the Danes first appeared on 
the Shannon, and after destroying 
many churches were defeated at Glin. 
They returned, however, and Brian 
Boru expelled them from the islands 
of the Shannon in the eleventh cen- 




Cathedral of St. Mary. 



tury. In 1106 Murtogh, the son of King Turlogh O'Brien, transferred the seat of 
royalty from Cashel to Limerick, and it was held by King Donald O'Brien when 
Henry II. arrived. In 11 75 Raymond le Gros took it; but it was burned by 
Donald in that year. It was rebuilt soon 

after, and the foreigners again failing to ,■ >v' i/'"\ 

take it, O'Brien felt so secure of his me- -" | 

tropolis that he built the Cathedral Church 
of St. Mary on the site of his palace. In 
1 195, however, the foreigners were in pos- 
session, and were again driven out by Mac- 
Carthy of Desmond. In the thirteenth 
century King John granted it to his fol- 
lowers, established a mint, and built the 
castle and bridge, after which English set- 
tlers flocked in. Edward Bruce burned 
the suburbs in 13 16, and rallying his Irish 
allies held court for several months. Soon 
after the Irish town was walled round, and St. MungreVs Priory. 

during Elizabeth's reign the walls were 

fortified by twenty-four towers in the English town, and by twelve towers and 
strong outworks in the Irish quarter. The Confederates, under Lord Muskerry 




LIMERICK. 



555 



and General Barry, took it in 1642, and the city was represented in the parlia- 
ment of Kilkenny. Additional fortifications were then raised, and it became the 
headquarters of the Catholic forces during the Confederate war. The massive 
and gloomy structure called King John's Castle was the centre of romantic and 
heroic transactions in the struggles which took place for centuries, commanding, 
as it did, the only entrance to Limerick over the Shannon. In 1651 the city 
was besieged by Ireton, the son-in-law of Cromwell, who for six months vainly 
attempted to capture the 
castle, and lay the town at 
his mercy. The gallantry 
of the Irish, under Colonel 
Hugh O'Neill, defeated 
the purpose for a time, 
and would have eventually 
compelled him to raise the 
siege, had it not been for 
the treachery of an Anglo- 
Irish officer of the gar- 
rison, named Fennel, who 
was subsequently hanged 
by his new friends on a 
charge of "several mur- 
ders." 

In 1690, during the 
war between William and 
James, Limerick was 
again the theatre of more 
deadly conflicts. After 
the disaster of the Boyne, 
the Irish army reinforced 

the garrison of Limerick, to keep communication open with France. Sars- 
field, though second in command to General Boileau, was the actual leader 
of the besieged. William, flushed with victory, appeared before the city 
on August 8th. Limerick showed so stout a front that he ordered from 
Dublin a heavy battery train, mortars, ammunition, and pontoons ; but these 
having been intercepted by the active Sarsfield, were totally destroyed. A 
breach, nevertheless, was effected, and an attempt made to take it by storm 




Treaty Stone. 



556 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Carrig-o- Gunnel. 



on the 27th of August. The conflict that ensued is one of the most famous 
in history. When the day seemed almost lost to the Irish — the enemy In 

their streets, and their 

- -:■■-; stronghold, the Black 

-_^.^^:^" -- ~ Battery, taken after a 

bloody struggle by the 
Brandenburgers, the of- 
ficers excitedly leading 
their men into the path 
of victory — the crisis ar- 
rived when the foresight 
of the Irish leaders was 
to strike terror and save 
the city. Preparing for 
such an emergency, the 

Black Battery had been mined. The moment had come to spring it. The result 

was terrific. After the fearful pause that followed the explosion, Sarsfield seized 

the opportunity, rallied his broken columns, and, conspicuously at their head, 

renewed the defence, drove the assailants from street to street, and forced them 

over the works into the ^^ 

river. Not only did the " "^ 

citizens not in arms enter -"^-i %=*-:-- 

into the conflict, but the - >^^ 

women and children shared -^w: i. 

in the glory of the rescue 

of the city. " Many young 

and delicately nurtured 

ladies were found after the 

combat amongst the slain," 

by the side of their male 

relatives. Story, a very 

partial English historian, 

says of this attack and 

repulse : " The Irish then 

ventured upon the breach 

again, and from the walls and every place so pestered us upon the counterscarp, 

that after nigh three hours resisting bullets, stones (broken bottles from the very 








Hi/Ill. of Go aid Giiffin 







'S-!^ 






^f^- 






t* i 










Azeq'Ui^nizan Abbey, Adaie 



\v o m e n, 
who boldly 
stood in the 
breach, and 
I were nearer to our men than their own), 
and whatever way could be thought on 
to destro} us, our ammunition being 
spent, It was judged safest to leturn to 
our trenches " 

In August, 1691, the An^lo-Dutch 
557 



558 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Shannid Castle and Rath. 



army again appeared before Limerick, which, after a six weelcs' siege, capitulated 
on honorable terms, the Irish chiefs seeing nothing to hope for in prolonged 
resistance. On the 3d of October a treaty was signed, on a large stone near 

Thomond Bridge, at the Clare side. This 

-*%^- treaty has become famous from the in- 

=.-,.v,.^^ famous manner in which it was almost 

_^._- - immediately violated; hence Limerick is 

:- called the city of the violated treaty ; and 
within a fewyears back the historic " Treaty 
Stone " was elevated to its present posi- 
tion on top of a neat pedestal, in presence 
of the municipal authorities and the as- 
sembled citizens. 

In addition to the old English and 
Irish towns, a new quarter has been added 
called the New Town, in which are many of 
the most attractive streets. In it there are statues of O'Connell and Lord Mont- 
eagle. Of six bridges, two cross the Shannon ; Thomond Bridge, which has been 
rebuilt, and Wellesley Bridge, an elegant structure, on which stands a statue of 
Lord Fitz-Gibbon, who fell at Balaklava, and from which fine views can be had of 
the castle and the old cathedral of St. Mary, from whose tower, one hundred and 
twenty feet high, peal the sweet-toned bells, associated with the tale of art-feeling,, 
love, and sorrow, so beautifully 

portrayed in McCarthy's ballad, -7—:"=— - 

" The Bell-Founder." Below 
the city is the venerable ruin of 
St. Mungret's Priory, bearing 
evidence of great antiquity, and 
said to have been founded by 
St. Patrick. The Psalter of 
Cashel says it contained "forty 
contemplative sages, five hundred 
learned preachers, and six hun- 
dred psalmists, who poured forth 

daily to the Lord of Heaven the t-j n, i. ^ u, ^ t ? ^ 

■' The Black Castle at Lough Gur. 

tribute of their praises." 

The country around the city is flat, but the diversity and splendor of the 




LIMERICK. 



559 



environs make ample amends for the tameness of the suburbs. For scenes of 
beauty Hall recommends us to visit Carrig-o-Gunnel, Adare, and Castle Connel. 
Another English guide (Mr. G. Shaw) says of the latter, " the Shannon here, 
with a greater volume of water than the four largest rivers of England put 
together, rushes headlong for nearly half a mile over and through a vast aggre- 
gation of rocks, presenting a spectacle approaching the sublime." The admirers 
of genius will be led to visit Fairy Lawn, the home of Gerald Grififin, and Shan- 
nid Castle, which is illustrated by his verse ; and the antiquary will be not less 
interested at the latter than at Lough Gur, Croom, and Kilmallock. 

Carrig-o-Gunnel Castle, a few miles west of the city, crowns a high rock, 
rising boldly from an extensive plain, which reaches to the Shannon. It was the 
seat of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, and was blown up by Ginckle in 1691. 
The ruins indicate its former import- 
ance, a part of the outer wall, which 
remains, being wide enough on top 
for a coach and four to drive on. 
Carrig-o-Gunnel has a literary inter- 
est also, in having been the birth- 
place (1719) of a once noted writer, 
Charles Johnston, author of Chry- 
sal, or the Adventures of a G^^inea. 

Shannid, near the small village 
of Shanagolden, presents some re- 
markable features. The grassy hill 
is unconnected with any other eminence, but terminates in a double peak, evi- 
dently artificial, each forming a truncated cone. The northern peak is sur- 
mounted by a castle one hundred and eighty feet in circumference, and covering 
the whole extent of the platform. The walls are ten feet thick, and in height 
perhaps forty feet. While polygonal exteriorly, it is circular inside, and an 
external wall twenty feet high, and but little in advance from it, surrounds the 
structure. Lower down a deep fosse, six hundred feet in circumference, flanked 
by an earthen rampart, girdles the hill. It was a stronghold of the earls of Des- 
mond, and their war-cry, Shannid aboo, was derived from it. The southern peak 
is crowned by a rath — an earthen hill fort, surrounded with fosses and ramparts, 
and with the peculiarity of being subdivided into four equal parts by the inter- 
section of a deep cut through the centre. The castle dates perhaps from the 
twelfth century ; the rath from far remote ages. 




New Church at Loui^h Gur. 



S6o 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




The Mass Rock. 



The whole central district of the county is studded with remains still emphat- 
ically speaking of the former power of the Geraldines. A chain of towers may 

be traced in continuous 
succession from the 
Shannon to Kilmallock, 
indicating their terri- 
torial supremacy, whilst 
their numerous and elab- 
orate ecclesiastical struc- 
-"- tures tell of their wealth, 
munificence, and taste. 

Attention may be 
here directed to the cas- 
tle of Dromore, com- 
menced in 1865 by the Earl of Limerick, and but recently completed. It is a 
perfect reproduction of a stronghold of the 14th century. It forms a quadrangle, 
entirely of wrought limestone, and occupies a lofty ridge two miles south of the 
Shannon. 

Kilmallock, Askeaton, and Adare, are deservedly objects of pilgrimage. 
The ruined castle of the Desmonds, the ivy-mantled walls of the stately abbeys, 
the lonely shades and venerable trees, awaken emotions of the most exquisite 
nature at Adare. The remains 
of three important abbeys are 
still to be seen— the abbey of 
the Holy Trinity, the Augustin- 
ian Abbe)^ and the Franciscan 
Abbey. The second, built in 
13 1 5, by John Fitz-Thomas, first 
Earl of Kildare, is a strikingly 
picturesque object. " To the 
north of the steeple are some ~ 
beautiful cloisters with Gothic 
windows, within which are cor- 
ridors, and on most of the win- 
dows are escutcheons with the 

English and Saltire crosses ; the workmanship is simply elegant, the principal 
parts being of hewn limestone, which appears so fresh as to give it a modern yet 




Round Tower and Rum at Croom 




ASKEATON ABBEV. 



S62 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




venerable appearance." The abbey of the Holy Trinity was raised and en- 
dowed by the same founder, for the pious purpose of redeeming Christian 
captives from slavery. The abbey at Askeaton, two miles above the confluence 
of the Deel with the Shannon, is beautifully situated near the river. In 
addition to these picturesque remains, there are other influences which com- 
mand romantic interest in this district. Its legends, its vestiges of a far 
older time than that in which the Geraldines, or even the O'Briens predomi- 
nated, are numerous. The fairy marvels of Knockfearna and its enchanted 
chief, Donn of Truth, the subaqueous wonders of the palaces of Lough Gur, 
where the last of the Desmonds is detained,* are of not less interest than the 
time-honored fanes of the same lake, and those of a suggestive pagan character 

near Croom. On an island in Lough 
Gur, and in its neighborhood, are re- 
markable Druidical remains. Here also 
are the ruins of a square keep of the 
Desmonds, and on the southern shore 
the roofless walls of an old, still called 
New Church. Not far distant is a 
singular natural formation, the Mass 
Rock. It is full of chasms and hol- 
lows, within which the ceremonies of 
venerable Christianity were celebrated 
during the penal times. 

Near Croom, in a valley stretching 
from the eastern base of Knockfearna, are the remains of a small church, of 
Cyclopean structure, whose era belongs to the very earliest period of Christianity 
in Ireland. It is a plain oblong, about forty-six feet long, and eighteen broad. 
Ten feet to the north stands a Round Tower, fifty feet high, and fifty feet round 
at the base. The door, with a semicircular head, is sixteen feet from the 
ground ; and of the three remaining windows two are lancet, and the other 
round-headed. 

Kilmallock, deriving its name from a church founded by St. Malloch, who 
died in the middle of the seventh century, was a place of such distinction, that 
its ruins obtained for it the title of Balbec, or Palmyra of Ireland. Mr. Weld,, 

^ The legend is that the last chief of the Desmonds — always excepting, adds Hall, him who became an "apostate,"' 
and died in England — keeps his state under the waters of Lough Gur. He appears armed and accoutred for fight everjr 
seven years, and rides around the shores. When the silver shoes of his steed are worn out, the period of his enchant- 
ment will cease, and he will return to his estates and station. 



Chinch at KilmallocI 




LIMERICK. 



563 



in 181 2, said, that so far as a contrast between former magnificence and present 
misery contributed to tlie parallel, it bore a striking resemblance to the remains 
of those once celebrated cities of the East. 

Kilmallock was the capital of Desmond's dominions ; and as he was the most 
wealthy and the most powerful subject in the kingdom, so this, his largest city, 
was distinguished above every other by the beauty and splendor of its edifices. 
It is said to have contained numerous castles, churches and abbeys, besides many 
extensive marble palaces ; and the generality of the houses, built of hewn stone, 
were placed with regularity along the lines of straight and spacious streets. The 
plans of the houses, judging from the description given by Weld seventy years 
ago, and by the few that remain, were nearly all alike. They were of three 
stories, and presented two or 
more gables on the street. The 
entrances, by spacious portals 
with semicircular arches, opened 
into small halls, which commu- 
nicated with broader passages, 
which doubtless contained the 
stairways, whence the principal 
apartments were reached. The 
windows now seen are square, 
mullioned by uprights or stone 
crosses. The chimney-pieces are 
large and lofty, and the fire- 
places calculated for huge piles of wood. "Tradition relates," says Weld, " that 
the commander of the parliamentary army was so struck with its uncommon 
beauty, that, contrary to the cruel policy which led to the destruction of every 
fortified tower, castle, and habitation of the Irish, he resolved to spare the place : 
but afterward learning that nearly all of the inhabitants bore the same name, he 
judged it imprudent to leave so powerful a confederacy in quiet possession of 
their property ; and, to strike terror into the enemy, he gave orders to demolish 
the city."* A lofty wall, strengthened at intervals by towers, defended the city 
on every side. There were anciently four great entrances, each protected by a 
castle. Of the old gateways two remain, and there are also portions of smaller 
towers remaining, in what exists of the old town walls. Among the other 
antiquities are the Round Tower, the church of St. Peter and Paul, and the 




Dominican Friary. 



* Weld's Killariiey and Surrounding Country, pp. 240-2. 



564 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Dominican Friary. The church has been roofless since its destruction by Crom- 
Avell. The Dominican Friary, in the opinion of the English antiquary, Sir Richard 
Hoare, surpassed in "decoration and good sculpture any he had yet seen in Ire- 
land ; " but he thought it not older than the reign of Edward III., fourteenth cen- 
tury. Although it is said Kilmallock was a walled town before the arrival of the 
Ano-lo-Normans, and that many of its remains date far back, it is claimed that 




Tomb of U illiam ^iinth O Biitti. 



much of its present ruined magnificence — the remaining dwellings, for instance 
are of the period of James I., and none of them earlier than that of Elizabeth. 

In suggestive connection with the humiliating picture of the departed grand- 
eur of the Desmonds, may be presented the tomb of one of the best and noblest 
scions of a great historic royal house— that of William Smith O'Brien, in the 
graveyard of Rathronan. 




Cofjirijlit.lSSi.b); Jhomaa.KelJy 







Copyright ISSO by Tlioinas Kelly. N«w York 



KILDARE. 




Carbery Castle. 

KiLDARE, an inland county in the province of Leinster, is not remarkable for 
wild or bold scenery, but its most favored localities present those fertile and 
pastoral effects which give great pleasure. Its historical associations, however, 
are numerous ; and it abounds in antiquities, pagan and Christian. There are 
Round Towers at Kildare, Castledermot, Old KilcuUen, Killashee, Oughterard, 
and Taghadoe ; and abbey ruins at Kildare, Monastereven, Castledermot, New- 
bridge, Naas, and other localities. Some curious sculptured crosses have been 
found at Moone. In the twelfth century avast circle of stones, like Stonehenge, 
stood upon the " Curragh of Kildare," a common of 5,000 acres, the' scene of 
many a desperate struggle, now devoted to sheep-grazing, horse racing, and a per- 
manent camp of instruction, with accommodations for 12,000 troops. 

Kildare owes its name and origin as a district to St Bridget, or Bride. This 
S6s 



566 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



celebrated person, in common with St. Patrick and St. Columba, is a patron saint 
of Ireland. Of noble birth, and claiming descent from Conn of the Hundred 
Battles, she was remarkable from early youth for piety and charity. She tended 
her cattle in the fields, and shared all she possessed with the poor. Vowed to 
perpetual virginity, she traversed Ireland, establishing convents in various 
places ; but her name is chiefly connected with that " Church of the Oaks," Kil- 
dare, where she founded the most famous convent that ever existed in Ireland. 
She died at the age of seventy, February ist, 525, and 
was buried at the side of the altar of the cathedral 
church.* The nunnery formed the commencement of 
the great monastery and the city of Kildare, which grew 
% up around it. St. Conlath, contemporary with St. Bridget, 
^ was the first bishop and founder of the cathedral. Kil- 
^ dare was long celebrated as a seat of learning and sanc- 
M tity, but suffered much in the ninth and tenth centuries 
^ from repeated devastations of the Danes. Soon after 
% the arrival of the Anglo-Normans, the district became 
^E the possession of De Vescy, who built a strong castle. 
^ Ralph de Bristol, consecrated in 1223, was the first En- 
-^ glish Bishop of the See, and he, at great expense, re- 
paired the cathedral. It was again repaired about the 
commencement of the sixteenth century ; but it was de- 
stroyed, and a part of it levelled by the parliamentary 
artillery in the war of 1641. The walls, and the south 
side of the steeple and nave, which have six Gothic arches 
ind buttresses, are still standing. Church services are 
held in the choir, which has been repaired for the pur- 
pose. Thirty yards west of the cathedral stands one of 
the oldest Round Towers, which presents some notable 
characteristics ; among them, a chevron cornice mould- 
ing, and battlements at top. Its height is given as one 
hundred and thirty, and its external circumference about fifty-four, feet. The 
large arched doorway is fourteen feet from the ground. For twelve feet it is built 
of white granite, and thence upward of blue stone. Near by is an ancient stone cross. 




Round Tower and Cross at 
Kildare. 



* She was reverenced not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, and the western isles, Hy Brides, are said to have taken 
her name, which was invoked by the islanders to confirm their most solemn oaths. An annual festival was there held in 
her commemoration. — Ferguson's The Irish before the Conquest, p. 165. 



KILDARE. 

' The bright lamp, that shone in Kildare's holy fane, 
And burn'd thro' long ages of darkness and storm,' 



567 



Avas kept alive with slight cessation, day and night, for nearly a thousand years 
by the nuns in a small stone structure — the Fire House — which still exists. 

De Vescy having fled to France to avoid a single combat with Fitzgerald, 
Lord of Offaly, who had accused him of treason, the possessions of the former 
were conferred on the latter, who became the first earl of Kildare of the Gerald- 
ine line. The Kildare branch of the Fitzgeralds very early made one of three 




Cxtlit. it il f Kil iir 

principal seats at Maynooth, where the sixth earl erected a strong castle in 1426. 
During the rebellion of Silken Thomas, it was taken through treachery, but in 
the reign of Edward VI. it was restored to the family, in whose hands the town 
remains to this day, Maynooth is situated on the Rye-Water, and consists of 
one principal street, at one extremity of which is Carton, the splendid seat of the 
Duke of Leinster, and at the other the Royal College of St. Patrick, the spacious 



568 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




entrance to which is greatly en- 
hanced by having the ivy-clad 
tower of the parish church on one 
side, and on the other the massive 
ruins of the ancient castle of the 
Geraldines. Carton was built by 
James, the twentieth Earl of Kil- 
dare and first duke of Leinster, of 
whom Lord Edward Fitzgerald 
was the fifth son. The demesne 
occupies about one thousand acres- 
of the rich table land betweea 
Maynooth and Leixlip ; and the 
mansion, in the Italian style, from 
<^ the south side commands a splen- 
■:| did view over the thickly wooded 
I; foreground of the demesne, of the 
^ whole range of the Dublin Moun- 
V, tains, and the fine tract lying along- 
:§ their base. Nothing can afford a 
^ greater contrast than the elegant 
.g placidity of the present home of 
^ the Fitzgeralds, and the feudal 
power and massive strength of 
their ancient stronghold at the col- 
lege end of the town. 

Maynooth College was founded 
in 1/95 by the Irish Parliament, 
without a dissentient voice. It 
was maintained by an annual grant 
of 8,000/., which was increased to 
8,283/. from 1808 to 1813, and from 
the latter year to 1845, to 8,928/. 
A special grant of 5,000/. for en- 
largement of buildings was made 
in 1807. It received in donations 
and bequests, including sums. 



KILDARE. 



569 



founded for courses, 31,681/., be- 
sides the foundation of Lord Dun- 
boyne, Catholic bishop of Cork, 
who subsequently conformed to 
the Anglican Church, which pro- 
duces 460/. a year. In 1845 the 
college was placed on a new foot- 
ing, and permanently endowed for 
the maintenance and education of 
five hundred students, and of 
twenty senior scholars on the Dun- 
boyne establishment. The recep- 
tion of a certain number of lay 
students was abandoned in 181 7, 
since which period the college has 
been solely directed to the educa- 
tion of Catholic ecclesiastics. The 
original inconvenient building was 
enlarged from time to time, and 
an entirely new one, by Pugin, 
erected, the whole forming two 
extensive quadrangles. Another 
eminent educational establishment 
is the college at Clongowes Wood, 
opened in 18 14, and directed by 
the Jesuit Fathers. It is about a 
mile from Clane, forms a spacious 
quadrangle, flanked at the angles 
by lofty towers, and is pleasantly 
situated in the centre of an ample 
and richly wooded demesne. Here 
Thomas Francis Meagher spent 
six years of his student life, of 
which he has left some character- 
istic scenes in his vividly written 
" Personal Recollections." 

Six miles west of Kildare is 



'^ 




S70 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

Monastereven, near which is Moore Abbey and the demesne, a large and finely 
wooded tract ascending In a series of low hills from the flat of the bog of Allen. 
The great hall is lined with Irish oak, and in it was held the Court of Chancery 
by Lord Ely, in 164 1. Of the ruined Abbey of St. Even, after whom the town 
was named, two strong square towers, and some sculptured ornaments remain. 
It was a mitred abbey, and the abbot sat as a baron in parliament. South of 
Monastereven, and also on the river Barrow, is the old town of Athy, where 
Donald O'Brien crossed the river after the battle of Clontarf. It became a fron- 
tier post of the Pale, and was at various times occupied or plundered by the 
Anglo-Normans, the Irish, the army of Bruce, the Confederates, and the Crom- 
wellians. White's Castle was built by the Earl of Kildare, in 1506, for its de- 
fence. Between Monastereven and Athy, on the Barrow, is the site of the 
ancient city and castle of Rheban, noticed in Ptolemy's map as one of the prin- 
cipal inland cities. The district formerly belonged to the principality of Leix ; 
and the castle, which commanded a pass of the river, was for a long period a 
frontier fort. It was taken by Bruce in 13 15. In the tenth year of James I., the 
castle and manor fell into the hands of Sir Arthur Savage, who was also possessed 
of the adjacent lands of Churchtown and Miltown. Of this ancient site only a 
deep quadrangular intrenchment, with a conical mount at its western extremity, 
of late remained. 

Naas, the county town, is situated in a well cultivated country, and is sur- 
rounded by many Avell-wooded residences. In the immediate vicinity is a re- 
markable pile, called Jigginstown House, which can scarcely be called a ruin, as 
It Is the one story of an immense structure, commenced, but never finished, by 
the Earl of Strafford. Naas was in early times the capital of the kings of 
Leinster, and was strongly walled and fortified by the Anglo-Normans. From 
its position in the centre of the Pale, It speedily rose to importance. Parlia- 
ment sat here in 141 9. Of course, it had the experiences of all favored or 
favorable posts during the wars, and was captured by the Cromwellians In 1650. 
The first demonstration of the nationalists, in '98, was made in the early morn- 
ing of May 24, in an attack which was frustrated by the garrison ; which, owing 
to the receipt of anonymous letters, had been reinforced and prepared for the 
assault. There Is a strong square tower here, and a large moat at the upper 
end of the town. Less than two miles distant Is Punchestown, famous for Its 
annual races, " The Irish Epsom," during the Easter holidays, which attract 
large multitudes. 

Bodenstown, in the barony of North Naas, is one of the pilgrim places of 



KILDARE. 



571 




wc" 



patriotism, for in its ancient graveyard lie the remains of Tlieobald Wolfe Tone. 
For years his resting-place was unmarked ; but Thomas Davis caused a memorial 
slab to be placed on it. This having been almost removed as relics by travelers, 
admirers, and patriotic pilgrims, a new slab, protected by an iron railing, was 
erected on the 2 2d of March, 1874, which was made the occasion of a demonstra- 
tion of nationalists, presided over by the pogt, T. D. Sullivan. 

The famous river Boyne has its source :n this county, near the little village 
of Carbery. The hill of Carbery rises to a considerable height above the sur- 
rounding plains, and is rendered additionally conspicuous and interesting by the 
castle ruins upon it, which Sir William Wilde thought one of the best specimens 
of the castellated mansions of the Stuart era, combining lightness and comfort 
with strength and durability. It 
was originally built by the Ber- 
minghams, was plundered and 
burned, and as many times re-edi- 
fied ; and passed, in the sixteenth 
century, to the Colieys, the ances- 
tors of the Duke of Wellington. 

Celbridge, once famous for the 
largest woolen factory in Ireland, 
will be always interesting as the 
place of residence and death of 
one of Swift's two " loves," or 
"heroines," Esther Van Homrigh, 
whom he has celebrated in verse 
as Vanessa. Her father had been Lord Mayor of Dublin in 171 7, and the owner 
of Celbridge Abbey. At his death she removed to the latter to be near Swift, 
from which he sought to dissuade her. They had met in London, and an attach- 
ment resulted, which is described in his poem, "Cadenus and Vanessa." He is said 
to have spent much time at Celbridge, and a bower on the bank of the Liffey, 
which passes through the demesne, is said to have been planned by him. Vanessa 
was fascinating, brilliant, and proud, and became aware of a rival in Stella. Ago- 
nized by despair and neglect, she wrote to Stella, asking if she was married to the 
Dean. The inquiry was handed to him, and, enraged beyond measure, he flew to 
•Celbridge, threw her letter at her feet, and departed — never to see her more. 
This shock, working on nerves excited to the utmost by the tender but unhappy 
passion which consumed her life, broke her heart, and she died in three weeks. 




While's Castle and Athy Bridge. 



572 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Adjoining Celbridge is Castletown, the splendid mansion of the Connolly 
family, situated in an extensive park of stately trees, sloping gently to the river. 
The Liffey, flowing between Kildare and Dublin, at Leixlip forms a series of 
picturesque falls. Entering a narrow and rocky ravine, about a mile in length, 
the river frets and forces its way with sparkling effect, and about half-way down 
the waters are thrown over a broken ledge of rocks, popularly known as the 
Salmon Leap. There is always sufficient water to render the scene interesting \ 
but when the river is swollen, and the foaming frenzy of the 
stream heightened, the effect is quite entrancing. It is the 
lowest fall on the beautiful Liffey, which passes through and 
adds to so many wild and delightful scenes. 

The views from the bridge which crosses the river below 
the cataract are exceedingly attractive. Downwards a fine 

reach of about 
a mile is seen 
under the um- 
brageous trees 
of the de- 
mesne of Lu- 
ca n House ; 
and upwards 
in the direc- 
tion of the 

Leap the water is seen splashing and sparkling on different levels, occasioned by 
the mill dams and the confluence of the Rye Water. Leixlip Castle, although 
having no architectural pretensions, adds to the eff'ect of the scene from the 
bridge, and the plantations connected with it adorn the river bank for a consider- 
able distance upwards. The castle dates from the twelfth century, and is said to 
have been the residence of John while governor of Ireland, under his father 
Henry II. Carton is three miles distant from Leixlip, and in proceeding to it, 
the Aqueduct, one hundred feet high, which carries the Royal Canal and the 
Midland Great Western Railway over the Valley of the Rye, is passed. 

In the uprising of '98, the County of Kildare was notably prominent : Mus- 
grave, the violently bigoted historian, instancing " the infrequent application to 
magistrates in matters of dispute," and " the abstinence of the lower classes of 
people from spirituous liquors," as proof of their fitness for rebellion. 





Salmon Ltap^ Laxhp. 



LONDONDERRY 




City of Londonderry. 

The county of Londonderry was the principal territory of the O'Cahans, or 
O'Kanes, a branch of, and tributary to, the O'Neills, and their chief seat was at 
Deer Park, in the valley of the Roe. When designated shire ground, in the 
reign of Elizabeth, it was intended that Coleraine should be the capital, and the 
county was long called the "County of Coleraine." Some suppose that the 
name of Derry is derived from Darini, the designation of the people living be- 
tween the Foyle and Bann, as given by Ptolemy. It is more probable that the 
name of Derry, which applied to the county, was derived from the city which 
grew up around the abbey founded by St. Columbkille. The place was originally, 

573 



574 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

and is still popularly called Derry, from the Irish Doire, the oak-woods. By the 
ancient Irish it was called Doire-Calgach, the oak-wood of Calgach, which subse-* 
quently gave place to Derry-Columbkille. A famous engagement took place here- 
on April 24, 1566, when the English under Randolph, having garrisoned the 
Cathedral, were taunted to battle by Shane O'Neill. Randolph was slain, and 
the powder magazine exploded — according to popular tradition — by the miracu- 
lous interposition of St. Columbkille, who, outraged by the desecration of his 
sanctuary, sent a wolf with a blazing brand into it to make it " too hot to hold 
the English." From this time forth it was their paramount object to secure 
Derry ; but many circumstances prevented its attainment, which so affected 
Elizabeth, that in 1599, she wrote impatiently to Essex: "How often haA^e you 
resolved us, that until Loughfoyle and Ballyshannon were planted, there could 
be no hope of doing service upon the rebels." At length, however. Sir Henry 
Dowcra, with a force of 4,000 foot, and 200 horse, in April, 1600, got possessioa 
of the long sought for prize. He thus describes it at the time : "A place in the 
manner of an island, comprehending within it forty acres of land, whereon were 
the ruins of an old abbey, a bishop's house, two churches, and at one of the ends- 
of it an old castle ; the river called Loughfoyle encompassing it on one side,, 
and a bog, most commonly wett, and not easilie passable, except in two or three 
places, dividing it from the maine land." Dowcra at once set to work building 
an " English town," and raising fortifications ; and in seeking the necessary mate- 
rials, not only levied on the natural resources of woods and quarries, but on the 
houses of inhabitants many miles distant. In his own words, he employed the 
" two ships of warre, with soldiers in them, to coast all alonge the shore for 
twenty or thirty miles, and willed wheresoever they found any houses, they 
should bring away the timber and other materials to build withall, and O'Cane 
having awoode lying on the opposite side, with 'plentie of growne birch,' I dailie 
sent some workmen with a guard to cut it down, and not a sticke of it but was 
well fought for. A quarry of stone and slatt we found hard bye ; cockle shells to 
make lyme we discovered infinite plentie in a little iland at the mouth of the 
harbour. With these helps, and the stones and rubbige of the old buildings wee 
found, wee sett ourselves wholie to fortefying, and framing, and setting up of 
houses, such as we might be able to live in," etc. In 1608, Sir Cahir O'Doherty, 
the young chief of Innishowen, burned this newly built town, and put the gov- 
ernor and garrison to the sword. In the next year, however, the lords of the 
privy council made arrangements with the corporation of London for its rebuild- 
ing, which progressed slowly. 




L ^^6iA 



576 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

After Hugh O'Neill and O'Donnell, princes of Tyrone and Tyrconnell, had 
fallen into the snares laid for them by Mountjoy and his spies, and fled to the 
continent, the Plantation of Ulster was vigorously set on foot by James I. The 
six counties marked out as the prey of the " undertakers " exceeded in length 
and breadth the large English counties of Yorkshire and Lancashire. No part 
of Ireland was more rich in natural fertility and cultivation, and though the bar- 
barian hand of English rapine had been busy with its teeming fields, it yet bore 
to the " hungry vultures " that awaited its partition, the abundant promise of 
untold wealth." A company was formed by the guilds of London, for the pur- 
pose of colonization, and in 1613 it was incorporated by royal charter as "The 
Society of the Governor and Assistants of London, of the New Plantation in 
Ulster, within the Realm of Ireland." At this period the prefix " London " was 
made to the old name of Derry. 

The surface of the county varies from the flat alluvial lands along its rivers 
to the wildest mountains. The latter form its central portion, extending in 
various chains, chiefly covered with heath, from near the sea-coast to the south- 
ern limit. Of these mountains, Sawel, on the Tyrone border, attains an elevation 
of 2,236 feet; Slieve Gullion, 1,730; Carntogher, near the source of the Roe, 
1,521 ; Donald's Hill, east of that river, 1,315 ; Benevenagh, the termination of 
that range toward the sea, 1,260; and Legavannon, between the Roe and the 
Faughan, 1,289. ■^'^ ^^e vales, or "slacks," as they are here called, amid these 
wild regions, are found spots of great fertility and charming scenery. The 
most diversified and extensive view in this part of Ireland is that from the sum- 
mit of Benevenagh, near the mouth of the Roe, from which mountain the huge 
masses of fallen strata form successive terraces descending to the sandy flats 
bounded by Lough Foyle and the ocean. The sea-coast, formed by the Atlantic 
for twelve miles, from Portrush to Magilligan, and then south-westward for six- 
teen miles by Lough Foyle, exhibits a succession of interesting scenery. The 
principal rivers are the Foyle, which washes Londonderry ; the Bann, which 
intersects the liberties of Coleraine ; the Roe, or Red River, which, receiving the 
Owen-reagh at Dungiven, and other streams in its thenceforth northern course, 
winds through the fertile flat of Newtown-Limavady, and enters Lough Foyle at 
Myroe ; and the Faughan, which falls into the same lough. The Moyola, a con- 
siderable stream, descends into Lough Neagh. A mile above Coleraine, the 
Bann, having borne the overflowings of Lough Neagh for twenty-five miles, falls 

* MacNevin's Confiscation of Ulster, page 97. 



LONDONDERRY. 



577 




Gate of Derry. 



over the salmon leap, a ledge thirteen feet high, where it meets salt water, and 
thence as a broad tidal stream, mingles with the ocean five miles farther. 

The famous city of Derry is situated on the western or Donegal side of the 
Poyle, about five miles above the junction of the 
river with the Lough ; and is equally remarkable for 
its local advantages and picturesque features. It is 
built on an oval hill, ascending to an elevation of 
119 feet, containing 200 acres, and nearly surrounded 
ty the windings of the broad and navigable river. 
Viewed from whatever side, Derry is an object of 
attraction, outside of the historic record of gallantry 
associated with it. Its elevated, and partially insu- 
lated position, its ranges of buildings rising tier above 
tier from the water's edge, and terminated by the 
cathedral ; its time-worn battlements, its long bridge, 
combine to present a novel and striking picture. 

The modern city has far outgrown its natural military boundary, northerly along 
the bank of the river ; and on the opposite bank, called the Waterside. The 
old walls are still in good preservation ; the gates have been repaired, or rebuilt, 
and some of the bastions which enclosed the old city during the celebrated siege 
are still entire ; to the original four gates two were sub- 
sequently added. The walls, which form a spacious 
terrace, and are now the fashionable promenade, con- 
sist of a thick rampart of earth from twenty to twenty- 
five feet high, faced with stone, and flanked with bas- 
tions, a parapet breast-high running round them. A 
few of the guns used defensively during the siege, 
notably " Roaring Meg," are still honored as memo- 
rials of the gallant stand made on that occasion. The 
central western bastion is distinguished by a Doric 
column eighty-one feet high, supporting a statue (by 
'a John Smith, of Dublin) of George Walker, rector of 
Donoughmore, better known as Governor Walker, 
who played so vigorously prominent a part in the 
defence of " the Maiden City " ; and who was subse- 
quently killed at the Boyne. It was the Ferry-gate which the "'Prentice Boys " 
shut on the approach of Lord Antrim's regiment, on the 7th of December, 1688 ; 




Walker^ 



578 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



and, by conduct so seemingly rash and desperate, "became the arbiters of the 
destinies of three kingdoms." History would lead us to believe that the bold 
'Prentice Boys closed the gates to keep a doubtful garrison in, as much as to keep 
King James' army out. Their spirit, however, soon spread, the citizens became 
soldiers for defence, and the city an asylum for some 30,000 persons. When 
James himself came, the 'Prentice Boys not only did not open the gates to him, 
but fired on his troops. The siege lasted one hundred and five days, from i8th 
April, 1689, to August ist, following, under circumstances of the most harassing 
nature, induced by famine and disease. Still the garrison continued the defence 
with rigid determination, making desperate sallies, principally from the Bishop's 

gate, even when, 
too much enfee- 
bled by hunger 
to follow up thejr 
successes. Their 
first sortie, under 
Colonel Adam 
Murray, was 
made upon the 
French and Irish 
at the Mill of 
Pennyburn, and 
General Mau- 
mont was slain by 
Murray in a per- 
sonal encounter. 

Of the 7,500 men "regimented as a garrison," nearly 3,200 died of fatigue, 
famine, and disease, and of the survivors i ,000 were not fit for duty. 

About eight miles up the valley of the Roe, in the deep gorge between Ben- 
braddagh and Manieeny, lies the town of Dungiven, with its old castle and 
church. The latter contains an elegant monument to Coeynagall, a chief of 
the O'Canes of the fourteenth century ; and at Camnish, near the town, John 
Mitchel was born. From the valley fine views are obtained of the jutting head- 
lands of Benevenagh, Keady, Donald hill, Benbraddagh, with the deep inden- 
tures between, which form a succession of basaltic promontories of great beauty, 
their escarpments presenting the same relative position of the limestone and 
basalt along- the Antrim coast. 




Pennyburn Mill 




Copyrigbt, ISSl, by Thomas Ke]ly,?Cew V-brk 



2imscU d) Slruthers,Eng's,]S\ Y. 




Cojiytlglit, 186?> by Thoinaa KcUj, J^uw York. 



CLARE. 




Coast at Kilkec. 



The maritime county of Clare is of exceeding interest. From its eastern 
boundary Lough Derg, to Loop Head stretching far into the Atlantic ; from the 
Shannon, forming its entire southern boundary, to Galway Bay on the north, the 
surface presents every diversity, and many natural advantages. Mountainous, with 
an intermixture of marsh and rocky pasture in the east and west, and northeast 
and northwest, its centre and southern part is an undulating plain producing the 
sweetest pasture, and in some districts, of inexhaustible fertility, especially along 
the Shannon and the Fergus, the estuary of which is five miles wide where it joins 
579 



58o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 

the greater river. The county presents a remarkable water front, being sur- 
rounded for about four-fifths of its boundary by that element. Counting the 
shores of the Shannon, it has some 120 miles of coast, while the land line on the 
north and northeast runs from twenty-five to thirty miles along the county Gal- 
way. It is intersected also by many rivers, the chief being the Fergus, east of 
which, in the baronies of Bunratty and Tulla, are a chain of interesting lakes ; 
and others in the north, and west, and south, in the baronies of Inchiquin, Cor- 
comroe, Ibrickane, and Clonderlaw. In fact, the loughs are very numerous, over 
one hundred of them having names, but the majority are small. There are some 
of larger extent, and distinguished for beauty as well as for special attractions to 
the angler, as Loughs Inchiquin, Inchicronan, Graney, Tadun, Mackanagh, 
O'Grady, Doo, Fin, Rosroe, Bunny, Cullaun, and others. Besides numerous 
picturesque islands in the Shannon and the estuary of the Fergus, there are 
various islets on the coast. From the Fergus to Loop Head, a distance of about 
forty miles, not counting sinuosities, the Clare banks of the Shannon are some- 
times bold and precipitous, sometimes flat and grassy. Rounding Loop Head, 
we face the broad Atlantic, and the coast, which trends upward in a northwest- 
erly direction, is of an extraordinary character, iron bound and rocky, presenting 
the wonderful results of the warfare carried on for ages between sea and land. 

From the lighthouse on Loop Head there are magnificent views of all the 
scenery about the mouth of the Shannon on the south, and beyond an unri- 
valled panorama of cliff and ocean scenery, both as to extent and grandeur, 
including the Kerry range, Brandon Hill, Dingle Promontory, and the Magilli- 
cuddy Reeks. On the other, the northern side, by land or water, from the natu- 
ral bridges at Ross to the watering-place of Kilkee, thence to Dunbeg, and from 
that over the exceedingly dangerous coast, not inaptly called Malbay, to Liscanor, 
and forward to the tremendous cliffs of Moher, extending from Hagshead to 
Doolin, a distance of five miles, we encounter a series of sea-made excavations, 
caverns, gorges, isolated pinnacles, arches and pufifing-holes, among the resound- 
ing labyrinths of which the Atlantic riots, and roars, and rages in its might 
against the indescribable barriers of the land. The cliffs along this coast vary in 
height from 100 to 1,000 feet, overhanging their base in many places. It is im- 
possible to conceive the force of the ocean without beholding what its wrath has 
effected on this coast. Mr. Hely Button, in his Statistical Survey of Clare, 1808, 
states, that cubes of limestone rock, ten and twelve feet in diameter, are thrown 
up on the ledges of rock several feet high near Doolin ; and at the same place 
may be seen a barrier of water-worn stones, some of them many tons weight, 



582 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



thrown above twenty feet high, across a small bay, where fishermen used to land, 
and where their quay remains, many yards from the sea. 

The present county was, at an early period, the principality of Tuath-Mum- 
han, or Thomond, signifying North Munster, and was possessed by the O'Logh- 
lins, O'Garbhs, O'Connors, MacNamaras, and O'Briens, the latter exercising 
supreme authority over the whole, which they held from the date of the earliest 
records to a late period. This family fill a large space in the history of the 
country. The great Brian (Boru) became king of all Ireland. The Anglo-Nor- 
mans penetrated into the heart of Thomond, marking their progress with barba- 
rous cruelties, especially on the O'Briens. Donald O'Brien obtained his kingdom 
of Thomond under Henry III., by paying tribute; but Edward I. granted it 

(1275) to Thomas de Clare, 
son of the Earl of Gloucester, 
who headed a formidable force 
to support his claim. In the 
conflict which ensued, the chief 
of the O'Briens was slain, but 
his two sons maintained the 
war so fiercely, that the new 
settlers were overthrown, and 
de Clare and his father-in-law 
having been compelled to sur- 
render, the O'Briens became 
the acknowledged sovereigns 
of Thomond. 

The de Clares, taking ad- 
vantage of internal differences, sought to maintain their claim ; but Richard 
died in 13 17, leaving no English successor in the territory. Bunratty and 
Clare were the chief settlements of the foreigners and their progeny, and as late 
as 1445 we find the O'Briens making war upon them. Eventually, all who were 
not extirpated adopted the manners of the country, and the entire authority 
reverted to the ancient septs, among whom the MacMahons rose into considera- 
tion. In 1565, Thomond, called O'Brien's country, was made shire ground by 
Sir Henry Sidney, lord deputy, and called Clare, after its Anglo-Norman grantee. 
The chief town, Ennis, situated on the Fergus, near the centre of the county, 
is a thriving business place, although its proximity to Limerick interferes perhaps 
with its progress. It lays claim to great antiquity, which is sustained by some 




Chapel of St Camin 



584 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



venerable ruins and relics in it, and the neighborhood. The small remnant of 
the abbey founded by O'Brien in 1240, contains a fine window of exquisite work- 
manship. Two miles north are the ruins of Dromcliffe Church and Round 
Tower, and further on, on the shores of Inchicronan, the ruins of the abbey 
founded by King Donald O'Brien (1190). The return of O'Connell to par- 
liament by the famous Clare election of 1828, is commemorated by a colossal 
statue of " The Liberator," in Ennis, by Mr. Cahill. New Hall, near Ennis, is 





Inchiqum Castle. 

the birthplace of Stephen Joseph Meany, an accomplished publicist, who has been 
prominent in the national cause from the " Repeal " era to the present.* 

* Mr. Meany was arrested during the "Young Ireland" movement, and imprisoned for nine months, in 1840-49. 
Nineteen years after, during the Fenian movement, he was arrested in London for words spoken in New York, tried in 
Dublin, April, 1867, and sentenced to fifteen years penal servitude. He was subsequently released, and directly shipped 
to the United States. When his health permitted he returned temporarily to Europe, and asserted his right, as an 
American citizen, to travel in the British dominions as elsewhere. He was arrested a third time, in August, 18S2. 




LION'S HEAD ROCK. 



586 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Killaloe, which is approached from Tipperary by a bridge of nineteen arches, 
across the Shannon, is worthy of a visit. It is very old, and obtained great 
celebrity as the residence of several kings of Munster, and especially of Brian 
Boru, who held his court, both as king of Munster and as monarch of all Ireland, 
in the palace of Kincora. Of this royal residence, so famed in song and story, 
no vestige remains save a mound or fort, still called Bal-Boru. In the nave of 
the old cathedral, founded by Donald O'Brien in 1160, are portions of an older 
church, which Brian caused to be repaired. In the same enclosure with the 




Qtiin .ibbey. 



cathedral stands a still more ancient stone-roofed church ; and on an island below 
the bridge is another stone-roofed church, exhibiting characteristics of a yet 
higher antiquity, the stones of which it is constructed being of large size, 
fitted to each other in the Cyclopean or polygonal manner. The doorway, which 
is broader at the base than at the head, is framed of great stones, covered by a 
single lintel. With Kincora is associated the memory of the great Brian's chief 
bard, Mac Liag, whose " Lament for Kincora," and a few other productions, have 
survived to our day. 



CLARE. 



587 



An excellent road between the shores of the upper Shannon, which expands 
into Lough Derg, and the base of Slieve Bernagh, leads from Killaloe to Scariff, 
and displays some fine mountain and lake scenery. About three miles distant 
is the famed Iniscaltra, or Holy Island, the largest of several small islands in the 
lough. Its extent is about twenty-two acres, and it contains the remains of some 
very ancient structures ; a Round Tower seventy feet high, in good preservation, 
the ruins of St. Camin's chapel (seventh century), and the ruins or debris of 
seven small churches or oratories. 

Twenty miles northwest of Ennis is Lake Inchiquin, a beautiful sheet of 
water, partly surrounded by a sandy beach, and more extensively by groves 
and meadows, shady banks and green uplands ; while on the north a range 
of swelling hills produce an 

ever-welcome effect. On _ _~ -- — -^ >^^ 

a small peninsula lying 
-close to the northern shore 
is the ruined castle, filling 
the whole scene with ro- 
mance, and the crowding 
memories of feast and fray. 
It was occupied in 1406 by 
Teigue O'Brien, prince of 
Thomond, by whom it is 
supposed to have been 
erected. 

Southwest of Ennis is 
the hamlet of Quin, where are the ruins of a celebrated Franciscan abbey, 
founded in the fifteenth century by Con MacNamara. It is built of black marble, 
and is deemed one of the finest of its kind by Eraser, and Hall says it is worth 
a pilgrimage to see. Going still south, toward the Shannon, are the Cratloe 
woods, the largest remnant of natural forest existing in this part of the country ; 
and in the neighborhood of the hamlet are two of the solitary keeps, Cratloe 
Castle and Cratloe Beg, without evidence of having had any outworks, which 
were occupied by the feudatories of the lords paramount. The apartments are 
dark and vaulted, and the walls massive. 

A steamboat trip down the Shannon lands us at Kilrush, which is regarded 
as the second town in Clare. Opposite the town, and a mile from the main- 
land, is Inniscattery, undoubtedly the most interesting spot in the lower .Shan- 




Cratloc Castle 



588 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




InniStaUcry — Round lower and Ruins. 



non. In the sixth century it was chosen by St. Senanus as the locaHty for a 
monastic establishment ; and in addition to the remains of his cathedral, and 
fragments of several small* churches, contains a Round Tower 120 feet hio-h. 

Moore has given a poetical 

celebrity to the island by his 

^ song, founded on the legend 

m given in a metrical life of the 

Saint, that the "sainted sod" 

should ne'er by woman's feet 
be trod, and that he refused to 
receive even a sister saint, Can- 
nera, "whom an angel had 
taken to the island for the ex- 
press purpose of introducing- 
her to him." Dr. Ledwich sug- 
gested that St. Senanus was 
the river Shannon, but O'Con- 
nor and other antiquarians in- 
dignantly deny the metamorphose. A miserable stone edifice is pointed out as 
the abode of the saint. 

Again in the extreme western promontory of Clare, we involuntarily revert to 
the wonders of the coast. The natural bridges at Ross are among its greatest 
curiosities. The inner bridge, beautifully arched, has a span of 72 feet, and is 49 
feet above the water. The other is remarkable, when it is seen that it is as level 
under the surface as on top, that it is 45 feet span, 30 feet wide, and 9 feet thick, 
and reflect " how impossible it would be for 
man, with all his boasted powers, to con- 
struct, or for a moment to support so great 
a mass." In passing along the dark clifTs, 
the Amphitheatre, the Puffing Cavern, the 
Diamond Rocks, and other conformations 
attract attention and admiration. In this 
district, at Carrigaholt, was born Eugene 
O'Curry, the Irish scholar and archaeologist, who has done so much to elucidate 
ancient Irish history. Passing the cliffs of Moher, the district of Burren is 
reached, whose antiquities, and those in its neighborhood of Corcomroe, are less 
known to-day than the famous oysters which are associated with its name. 




St. Senanus'' Oratory. 



DOWN. 



Down, a maritime county of Ulster, presents an extensive coast line on the 
Irish Sea, from Belfast on the north to Warren's Point, at the head of Carling- 
ford Lough, on 
the south, with 
many bays be- 
tween, such as 
Bangor, Cloghy, 
Ouintin, Millin, 
Mill-Quarter, 
Ardglass harbor, 
Killough, and, 
sweeping north 
and west, round 
St. John's Point, 
the more exten- 
sive bay of Dun- 
d r u m, which 
name pertains to 
the series of in- 
dentations on the 
coast to Cran- 
field Point, the 

southern extremity of the county. The sea breaking inland at Killard Point 
forms a channel of six miles to Portaferry, and thence expands into Strangford 
Lough, which stretches northward to Newtownards, a distance of fourteen miles, 
forming between it and the sea the long, narrow peninsula of the Ards. Strang- 
ford Lough is a deep and safe harbor, but little used, owing to the dangers of 
the channel and the velocity of the tides. The whole country, says the Survey 
of 1740, Is remarkable for its number of hills, being compared to wooden bowls 
inverted, whence it took the name of Down, a hilly situation. In the south, 

however, the Mourne mountains are of magnificent extent, occupying the broad 
589 




Grey Abbey, Interior. 



590 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Dcvnpatrick Cathedral. 



peninsula between Dundrum Bay and Carlingford Lough, the peaks forming effect- 

ive features in the 

beautiful scenery 
around Newry, Nar- 
row - Water, War- 
ren's - Point, Ross- 
trevor, and along 
the eastern coast to 
Castlewellan, Slieve 
Donard rising to a 
height of 2,796 feet. 
Among the most 
elevated summits 
are Eagle Moun- 
tain, 2,084 f^st ; 
Slieve Muck, 2,198 
feet ; Slieve Beg, 

2,384 feet ; Slieve More, 2,443 feet ; and Slieve Binglan, 2,449 feet. The 

mountains are accessible from different points ; 

glen roads leading from Hilltown to Ross- 

trevor, Kilkeel, and Newcastle, and another 

skirting the whole extent of their seaward base. 

The principal rivers are the Bann and the 

Lagan ; the former rising in the mountains at 

Deer's Meadow ; and the latter from two 

sources which unite near Waringsford. 

Of antiquities the county possesses numer- 
ous specimens. There are remarkable cairns 

— one on the summit of Slieve Croob, eighty 

yards round ; another near Anadorn, sixty 

yards round, and containing a low stone 

chamber, in which ashes and human bones were 

found. There are cromlechs at Drumbo, Slid- 

dery Ford, Drumgooland, Slieve-na-Griddal, 

Rathfriland, and Comber. Raths of various 

construction may be seen at Saintfield, Down- 

patrick, Dromore, Donaghadee, and Dundonald ; the first named having a single 




Rums a/ Alloc/ litdi Chutth 



DOWN. 



591 




Atinaim of Mo<JilU 4bbt} 



rampart and fosse ; the second, eight hundred and ninety-five yards in circuit at 
base, three ramparts ; the third, six hundred feet round and forty feet high, sur- 
rounded by a rampart and battlement, with a trencli of two branches embracing a 
square fort one hundred feet 

wide; and the two latter be- -=r:/^i^"^=rS:^^ -^-^i :z^-^/j; 

ing very lofty, with chambers " ";>-?, j^- 

running entirely round their 
interior. There are Round 
Towers at Drumbo and Ma- 
ghera; and a third, at Down- 
patrick, was taken down in 
1 790, to make room for a 
part of the cathedral. Mo- 
nastic remains are quite nu- 
merous, the principal being 
at Downpatrick, Innis Cour- 
cey, Newry, Moville, Grey Abbey, Ballyhalbert, and other places. Castles also 
abound, especially in the eastern portion around Lough Strangford. 

Down, with a portion of Antrim, was anciently known as Ullagh, Latinized 
Ulidia, which was applied to the whole of Ulster. Ptolemy mentions the 
Vohmtii, or Uluntii, as inhabiting this region ; and O'Dugan's Topography 

shows that the cen- 
tral parts of Down, 
with some adjoin 
ing parts of Ai~ 
magh, formed " the 
head territory of 
Uladh," the portion 
of the Red Branch 
Knights of Ulster. 
John de Courcey 
made a settlement 
here in 11 77, and, 
taking up his resi- 
dence in Downpatrick, founded several religious establishments. After de 
Courcey had been driven out of Ireland by the de Lacys, the latter obtained 
possession of Ulster. The principal native families of Down were the O'Nials, 




Grty Abbey. 



592 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




MacDunlevys, MacGennises, MacCartans, 
O'Kellys, MacGilmores. The county con- 
tinued chiefly in possession of the same 
families at the period of the Plantation, with 
the addition of the Anglo-Norman " families 
of Savage and White, the former of which 
settled in the peninsula of the Ards, on 
the eastern side of Strangford Lough, and 
the latter in the barony of Dufferin, on the 
western side of the same gulf " * (Lewis, 
Topog. Diet?). Ancient records show that, 
before the 20th of Edward II., there were 
two counties, Down and Newtown ; that the 



Ruined Ai-ch, Grey Abbey. 

Ards had at that time separate ju- "" ^r^^S ^ 

risdiction, with sheriffs of its own, 

and that Lecale, as within the 

Pale, held communication with 

Dublin by sea, the Irish holding 

the mountain passes between it 

and Louth. These several juris- 




* "The 'Clan Savages of the Ards' had 
early effected a settlement, and their predatory at- 
tacks on the natives in various parts, but chiefly on 
the clan MacGilmore, were felt severely. During 
the various contentions — political and religious — 
in Scotland, multitudes of people came over to 
Ireland. The proscribed clan MacGregor (see Sir 
Walter Scott's preliminary dissertation to Rob Hoy) 
migrated here in great numbers, and their descend- 
ants are still to be found under the names of Grier, 
Greer, Gregor, etc. The MacKinnons, from Skye, 
are now MacKenna, MacKean, MacCannon, etc. 
MacNish is MacNeice, Menees, Mannis, Monies, 
etc. The Cromwellians have transmitted their 
English names, and the settlers from Wales are 
still known as Welsh, Price (ap Rice), Hughes (ap 
Hugh), etc. Irish names were altered to a more 
English euphony, and indeed English names were Killiliej Lastle. 

enforced by statute, which explains the origin of 
some curious patronymics usually said to have originated with foundlings." — Hall's Inland, vol. iii., p. 23. 



£>01VN. 



593 



■dictions were evidently con- 
solidated into one county 
before the settlement of 
Ulster, under Sir John 
Perrott. Early in the 
■seventeenth century, the 
families of Montgomery 
and Hamilton got posses- 
sion of the lands of Conn 
O'Neill, in the Ards, and 
laid the foundation of their 
fortunes 

Downpat 
rick, the coun- 
ty seat an an- 



cient and venerable place, 
is built on several hills, and 
is said to be the oldest town 
in Ireland. Though now- 
possessing few traces of 
former magnificence, the 
early annalists represent it 
as a place of considerable 
importance, distinguished 
by the number and splen- 
dor of its monastic estab- 
lishments. Of 
these, the most 
important was 
the abbey, erect- 





Sl. Caiman's Cathedral, Dromore. 

ed by St. Patrick in the fifth century, on a hill called Dun, granted to him for 



594 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



that purpose by the Christianized chieftain of the 
Dal-dicho ; and here, in 493, was interred the body 
of its apostolic founder, who closed his labors in 
the Abbey of Saul, at the patriarchal age of one 
hundred and twenty. 

St. Patrick, having been repulsed at the Bray 
River, in Wicklow, sailed northward, made a short 
stay at Holm-Patrick, near Skerries, to refresh his 
crew, and continuing his course to Strangford 
Lough, landed at Magh-inis, in the present 
barony of Lecale. An alarm being raised, Dicho, 
the lord of the place, came with his people, but 
was at once satisfied that the intruder was no pi- 
_. rate. He 

^ =- ^-^ extended 

hospital- 
ity to Pat- 
rick and 
his com- 





Ruin at Ardiilass. 



^'//y// 



panions, and soon, with his family, em- 
braced the Christian faith. The apostle 
celebrated the divine mysteries in a 
barn belonging to Dicho, which was 
henceforth used as a church, and was. 
called Sabhall Padrtiic, or Patrick's barn,, 
a name still preserved in that of Saul.. 
Having founded the See of Armagh, 
about A.D. 455, St. Patrick passed his 
remaining years between that city and 
his favorite retreat of Saul, where, ac- 
cording to the Annals of Ulster, the 
Four Masters, Ussher, Ware, and Col- 
gan, he died on the 17th of March, a.d., 
493 ; but, according to Dr. Lanigan, in 
A.D. 465. The duration of the apostle's 
mission in Ireland, according to the 



reasonmg 



of the latter, would be thirty-three years, instead of sixty ; and his age. 



DOWN. 



595 



■which the old authorities represent as one hundred and twenty years, is reduced 
to seventy-eight years by Dr. Lanigan. The apostle's obsequies continued for 
twelve days, during which the light of innumerable tapers seemed to turn night 
into day, and the bishops 
and priests of all Ireland con- 
gregated together on the 
occasion. A fierce contro- 
versy ensued between the 
people of Down and Armagh, 
for the possession of his 
venerated remains, which was 
finally settled in favor of the 
former. In Downpatrick, 
also, were subsequently laid 
the remains or reliques of 
Saints Bridget and Columbkille 




D%indrum Castle. 



" Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulanter in uno, 
Brigida, Patricius atque Columba pius." 

De Courcey and Bishop Malachy III. largely endowed the abbey, and in 1186, 
at their special request. Pope Urban III. sent a nuncio to translate into shrines 
the sacred reliques of these saints, which was performed with great solemnity. 
From the death of St. Patrick to the eighteenth century, the annals of Down- 
patrick present a series of battles and burnings, incursions and plunderings. 

The cathedral, which shared the fortunes, or 
rather misfortunes of the town, was restored for 
divine worship in 1790, but was not entirely 
completed until 1829, when the tower was fin- 
ished. The learned and subtle John Scotus 
Erigena, the " most remarkable man that Ire- 
land," says Moore, " or perhaps any other coun- 
try sent forth in those ages," ninth century, was 
born here. 

Half a mile from Slieve-na-Griddal, the highest hill (four hundred and four- 
teen feet) in the vicinity, are the holy wells of Struel, which were visited by 
pilgrims from all parts of Europe, and are still — although less extensively — fre- 
quented at midsummer, for the purification of soul and body. 




Bridge, Tollyiiiorc Park. 



59^ 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Going up the Lagan from Belfast to Lisburn, the trip may be extended to 
Hillsborough, Dromore, and Banbridge. Dromore, a very ancient see, was 
founded by St. Colman, in whose name a new and handsome Catholic cathedral 
has been erected from designs by Mr. T. Hervey, of Belfast. The style is an 
adaptation from the early French phase of Gothic. In the Anglican cathedral 
rest the remains of Bishop Percy, editor of the Reliqzt.es of Ancient English 
Poetry, wh.o presided over it from 1782 to 181 1. Starting from Belfast on an 
excursion round the historic coast district of Down, the charming road passes 







"hit w ^ 



V , , H , k J 



W '''III 

I I ! ! 



■:'ji 







Tomb of John Mitchcl. 

along the southern shore of Carrickfergus Lough to Bangor. Not far distant 
is the remnant of Knockbreda Church, from which there is a fine view of the 
valley of the Lagan and the lough. Bangor was founded in 555 by St. Comgall, 
and subsequently was the seat of a school which became one of the most famous 
in Europe ; and from it Alfred selected professors when he founded the Univer- 
sity of Oxford, in the ninth century. Near it is Crawfordsburn, the home of 
Sharman Crawford, who, for so many years, in parliament and out of it, advo- 
cated the extension of the " Ulster Tenant-Right " to all Ireland ; and Clande- 
boy, the seat of the accomplished Earl of Dufferin, recently governor-general of 



DOWN. 



597 



Canada. East of Bangor is the cheerful town of Donaghadee, not more than 
twenty-two miles from Port Patrick, Scotland, and off the coast are the Copeland 
and other islands. Proceeding from Newtownards, a thriving town at the head 
of Strangford Lough, to Grey Abbey, we diverge a mile or two to visit the 
remains of Moville Monastery, in the cemetery of which the Rev. Archibald 
Warwick, a patriotic Presbyterian clergyman, who was executed in '98, is buried. 
Keeping the eastern shore of Strangford, southward, we reach Grey Abbey, 
founded in 1193 by Africa, wife of John de Courcey, and daughter of Godfred, 




Pulpit from which Mitchel' s father preached. 

king of the Isle of Man. Judging from the extent and character of the ruins, 
it must have been a spacious and imposing edifice. It is a place of favorite re- 
sort from Belfast, and a temple has been erected on the grounds as a retreat for 
visitors from the vicissitudes of the weather. 

This is about the centre of the Ards, which interesting barony was formerly 
called " Altititdo Ultoriivt jiixta marc Oricntale, " the heights of Ulster near the 
eastern sea. Although distinguished by the name of "heights," the average 
level of this fertile and well populated district does not exceed one hundred feet. 
The Down Stirvey says, " The Savages, and other English (Anglo-Norman) 



598 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



families settled here under De Courcey, the conqueror of Ulidia, in the twelfth 
century, who maintained themselves in a flourishing condition for a considerable 
time; but in the reign of Edward III., the sept of Hugh Boye O'Neill, of 
Tyrone, drove the Savages out of the greater part of it, and confined them to 
the south of the peninsula, the Little Ards." MacGeoghegan records that Lord 
Leonard Grey, the deputy, in a northern incursion, in 1537, "entered Lecale and 
the Ards, against Savage, a nobleman of English extraction, to whom Cox and 
others give the appellation of a 'degenerate Englishman.'" It was on this 
expedition that the lord deputy desecrated the shrine of St. Patrick, which was 
one of the charges brought against him on the trial which cost him his head. 
Complaint is made by English writers, that the " Savages," as well as other of 
the Anglo-Normans, "degenerated into the Irish customs and manners, and were 

often in rebellion 
against the crown 
of England ; " they 
were also "as 
' often engaged in 
broils and disputes 
between each 
other, which in the 
event, much di- 
m i n i s h e d their 

strength and power," so that at the beginning of Elizabeth's reign these disputes 
being submitted for arbitration, the lord deputy " then made a division, between 
Roland and Raymond Savage, of several towns and territories in the Ards." 
Further down on the lough is Ardkeen, one of the most important strongholds 
of the ancient Irish against the rapacity of the Danes. On this point of land, 
nearly surrounded by water, Raymond Savage erected a strong castle, in 11 96, 
which became the chief residence of the family. It was besieged in 1567 by 
Shane O'Neill, who was repulsed with such loss that he got no farther south in 
the Ards. Only the foundations of the castle remain ; the church, on the penin- 
sula, "is a small ancient edifice, and contains several monuments to the family of 
Savage, its original founders." Topog. Diet. Three miles south is the pretty 
little town of Portaferry, the only object of interest being, says Doyle's Tours in 
Ulster, " the old castle of the Savages, the former owners of the town and estate 
of Portaferry." Crossing the sound we reach the beautifully situated town of 
Strangford, with the splendid demesne of Castleward, and in its vicinity four 




■oil' Water Castle. 



£>OWJV. 



599 



-castles, of the twenty-seven built around the lough. Audley Castle overlooks the 
sound ; to the south is Kilclief Castle, long the residence of the bishops ; Walshe- 
town Castle lies to the west on the lough, and opposite is Savage's Castle, just 
alluded to, at Portaferry. 

At Ardglass, which presents an antique appearance, are the remains of several 
square towers, or castles, also a singular building two hundred and forty feet 
long, and twenty feet wide. On the sea side it has a breast-high battlement, 
with a terrace to walk on below. On the land side it is fortified by three towers, 
and has sixteen arched stone door-ways, with an equal number of windows, while 
on the sea side it has only spike-holes. It is supposed to have been a fortified 
warehouse built by trading merchants, to protect their goods from the rapacity 
of local chiefs. 

D u n d r u m and — -^ 

Newcastle .are water- .^J'^ST 

ing places, four miles ~ -^=' -^»=^5r_^^ 

apart, on Dundrum 
Bay ; and midway 
between, at Sliddery 
Ford, there is a fine 
cromlech, and circle 
■of pillar stones. The 
old castle at Dun- 
drum adds an artistic 
feature to the scenery. 

It commands the ford of the estuary that runs up to Blackstaff Bridge, and con- 
sists of a circular keep, surrounded by the ruins of some smaller towers and out- 
works, of which the barbican is the most perfect. Newcastle has, perhaps, the 
advantage in being deemed "the queen of northern bathing places." The 
sprightly little village is situated under Slieve Donard, and possesses a 
safe beach of the finest sand. In this neighborhood is Tollymore Park, the 
plantations of which, watered by the Shimna stream, stretch for more than two 
miles along the base of Slieve Donard, and for half a mile up its bold acclivities. 

From the hills of Castlewellan some grand prospects are obtained. On the 
north the picturesque hills encircling Slieve Croob, to the east the bay of Dun- 
drum, and north the valley leading to Downpatrick, while on the south the 
summits of the Mourne Mountains, in all their varied heights, their relative pro- 
portions, and their grandeur, presenting, in the words of Fraser, such an Alpine 




Newry River. 



6oo 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



scene as can only be obtained from these heights, and only equaled in Ireland 
by the Twelve Pins of Bennebeola, when beheld under the most favorable 
circumstances, and from some of their best points of view. The tourist may 
proceed by the coast road to Kllkeel, the capital of this mountain region, the 
attractions of which will be appreciated by the health seeker as well as by the 
angler ; or take the road on the land side of the mountains to the beautiful 
villages and scenes on Carlingford Lough, and up the Newry River. 

Rosstrevor, delightfully placed on a cove off Carlingford Lough, and under 




Donous:hmore C! i 



the beautifully wooded breast of Slieveban (1,595 feet), has been compared to 
Killarney and Glengariff ; and a native writer does not hesitate to give the palm 
to it. What it lacks in wildness it makes up in beautiful seclusion. To use the 
words of Mr. Inglis, " Nature has certainly done much for Rosstrevor, and art 
enough ;" and Forbes thinks it better calculated for a winter residence for invalids 
than for summer enjoyment. Two miles distant is Warrenspoint, another charm- 
ing spot of growing importance. 

Between Rosstrevor and Warrenspoint, " the bay " has all the appearance of a 
spacious lake, surrounded with woods and mountains, fully justifying its popular 



DOWN. 6or 

appellation. On Its shores are numerous villas, in the centre of which rises the 
obelisk to the memory of General Ross, who was killed near Baltimore in 1814, 
and whose previous record of gallantry was dimmed, if not disgraced by his 
association with the disreputable Cockburn in the wanton destruction which 
signalized their brief occupation of the City of Washington in that year. 

A noted point of attraction is the Cloughmore, a vast block of granite of 
about forty tons weight, lying upon a projecting ridge, nine hundred feet up the 
mountain side. " Its peculiar position on the brow of a hill, with a valley be- 
tween it and Slieveban, is not opposed to the idea of its being transported by 
glacial agency ; its enormous weight seems utterly to exclude the notion of its 
being placed there by the art of man." It is a favorite resort of pleasure parties 
from Rosstrevor and Newry, where after resting, the energetic tourists may pro- 
ceed half a mile farther up to the top of the mountains, and be thoroughly 
repaid in the magnificent panorama that meets the vision : Slieve Donard rising 
nearly as high above Slieveban, as the latter, on which you stand, is above the 
level of the sea. 

At a short distance from Warrenspoint, where the Newry-Water is contracted 
by a protruding rock, picturesquely stands Narrow-Water Castle, advantageously 
placed to defend the pass or exact toll. Following the road, from which views 
of beauty and even grandeur are disclosed, we reach the ancient town of Newry, 
embosomed in hills. A small part lies in Armagh, but the larger portion is built 
upon the steep slope on the Down side of the river. The Four Masters record 
the founding of a monastery and the planting of a yew tree by St. Patrick, 
from which it is said its name (^ait yewe) is derived. In the " Little Green " 
cemetery, High Street, John Mitchel is interred. Formerl)^ a Unitarian Church 
occupied the site, of which only a part of the wall and the pulpit remain. The 
latter is preserved temporarily under an awning in memory of the patriot's father, 
a distinguished clergyman who preached, and rests not far from it. On the day 
of Mitchel's burial, March 23, 1875, John Martin was borne fainting from the 
scene back to the house whence the remains had been carried. The earthly 
severance of the comrades was brief. Mr. Martin died within a week, and was 
buried in Donoughmore churchyard, within sight of the school where the life- 
long friendship of the patriots had commenced half a century before. 



TIPPERARY. 




Rock and Rttins of Cashel. 



TiPPERARY, an inland county in the province of Munster, is distinguished as 
one of the most exuberantly productive counties in Ireland. The surface pre- 
sents a number of extensive fertile tracts of undulating and champaign country, 
diversified with woods, and separated by mountain ranges, variously graceful and 
rugged, and always picturesque. These ranges are the Galtees (3,000 feet) ; 
Knockmeledown (2,700), on the border of Waterford, and extending westward 
into Cork ; Slieve-na-man (2,364,) also on the south, looking across the Suir at 
the Commeraghs ; on the northwest the Keeper Mountains (2,100); northeast 
the Devil's Bit Mountain.^., rising abruptly near Roscrea, and extending in a 
southwesterly direction to Burrisoleigh, the highest summit being 1583 feet; on 
the east the Slieve-ardagh hills. The narrow ridge of Slieve-na-muck, 1,215 
feet, extends from the Limerick border to the rear of Tipperary town, and 

between it and the Galtees is the beautiful glen, or rather valley of Aherlo 
602 




Copjriglit,18S0,by Ttionias Kelly, New York. 



Ruasi.-ll & Struthers, Eugr's N.Y. 




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Copyright 1878,Thoinas Kelly.Ncw York. 



TIPPERARY. 



603 




St. Mary's CJiiirch, Clonmel: 



•watered by the Arra, a tributary of the Suir. The principal rivers are the 
Shannon, the expanse of which into Lough Derg forms the northwestern bound- 
ary, the Nenagh, which empties into it, the Brosna, whicli partly separates Tip- 
perary from King's County, 
and finds its way also into the -&*'^f 

Shannon, near the most 
northern point of the former 
county ; the Nore, which, 
rising east of Killenaule, 
finds its way in a southeast- 
erly direction, to beautify 
the county of Kilkenny , 
and lastly, the Suir, which 
is the river of Tipperary. 
The principal level tract is 
watered by it, from its rise 
in the Banduff Mountains 
near Roscrea, to Ardfinnan, 
a distance of seventy-six miles, whence it turns north, and, after a few miles, east, 
and flows between Tipperary and Waterford. A large part of this tract 
embraces what, from its surpassing richness, is famed as the " Golden Vale." 
This magnificent tract spreads through the centre of the county to Its southern 
boundary, with branches reaching to its confines on the east, and over Its confines 
on the west. Its general elevation is about four hundred feet; north of Cashel 

it varies from three hundred and sixty to four 
hundred and seventy-four feet over sea level. 
One branch, having the Keeper and Slieve 
Phelim Mountains on its north, extends into 
and across Limerick, to the Shannon. On the 
east it is bounded by a bog, then by the low 
E^ range of the Slieve-ardagh hills, forming the 
Killenaule coal district, which extends from 
Freshford in Kilkenny, eighteen miles south- 
west, to five miles below Killenaule. These hills are abrupt on the Tipperary 
side, the heights rising from three hundred to six hundred feet over the sub- 
jacent plain, which Is terminated on this side by Slieve-na-man, southeast of 
Fethard-Tip. On the south the Golden Vale is immediately overlooked by 




St. Patrick's Well. 



6o4 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



the steep and towering heights of Knoclcmeledown, between which and the mag- 
nificent Galtee range on the north, a branch extends westward from Cahir and 
Ardfinnan into the valley of the Blackwater, in Cork. The Galtee range, the 
highest of which is Galtymore (3,008 feet), is more than twenty miles to its ter- 
mination at the river Puncheon, which forms part of the boundary between Tip- 
perary and Cork, and from five to seven in breadth. The wild magnificence of 
the Galtees is very striking, and their vast groupings present an assemblage of 
the most interesting features in boldness, freedom of outline, and fertility in 
some parts, as well as variety of aspect. The Keeper Mountains, and their 




Ca?-rici;-on-Suir. 

dependencies within this county, form a wild, and until recently an almost track- 
less region extending over four hundred and eighty square miles. It will be seen 
that Tipperary is largely surrounded by mountains of massive grandeur on the 
west and south, and by lesser ranges of imposing hills across the north and on 
the east, all pouring their fructifying wealth into, and rising like guardians over 
the Golden Vale. From Keeper to Roscrea, the Kilnamanagh hills and Devil's 
Bit Mountains separate the baronies of upper and Lower Ormond from the rest 
of the county ; and north of these to the Shannon, extends a fertile plain of 
similar character to the more famous one that spreads in the basin of the Suir. 
The railway runs through forty miles of the Golden Vale, and although there are 



TIPPERARY. 



605 




Cahi7 L istle 



comparatively few "gentlemen's seats" to be seen, it is studded with the ruins 
of castles and churches, indicating that it was inhabited by a numerous and 
wealthy proprietary. It is said one hundred castles are visible from the Rock of 
CasheL* Several of the most 
noted places in the country, and 
the most famous group of ruins in 
Ireland — ^Thurles, Holy Cross, 
Cashel, Cahir, Ardfinnan, Clon- 
mel, and Carrick — are seated 
along the banks of the Suir. Oth- 
er towns of ancient name, or mod- 
ern importance, are Tipperary, 
Nenagh, Newport, Roscrea, Tem- 
plemore, Burrisoleigh, Killenaule, 
MuUinahone, and Goldenbridge. 
The county, according to 
Ptolemy, was inhabited by the 

Coriundii. In the fifth century the southern part, as far as Machari Casil, the 

plain of Cashel, was added by ^ngus Mc- 
Nafrach, king of Munster, to the territory of 
the Desii, which held the larger part of 
Waterford ; and the north district was known 
as Oir Mumhan, Ormond, East Munster. 
The Desii maintained a separate sovereignty 
until overpowered by the Anglo-Normans, 
against whom they carried on a protracted 
and sanguinary warfare. The principal na- 
tive families, about the period of the invasion, 
were those of O'Fogarty, O'Brien of Ara, 
0'Kennedy,0'Carrol, O'Donaghoe, O'Dwyer, 
O'Dea, O'Meagher, O'Donegan, O'Meara, 
O'Heffernan, O'Lonergan, etc. The history 
of Tipperary is similar to that of the neigh- 

boring counties. O'Brien of Thomond de- 

Txirrct of Cahir Castle. feated Strongbow at Thurles. John put up 

castles at Ardfinnan and Tipperar>^tow n, to protect English authority ; and 

* Kilkenny Journal of Archeology, 1851. 




6o6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



again at Thurles, Donald O'Brien defeated the English. The territories of the 
former were ravished by the latter, who pushed their forts and castles gradually 
to the Shannon. Upon the general wreck, the two great houses of Fitzgerald 
and Butler — Desmond and Ormond — arose, and in their feuds and rivalries con- 
tinued to desolate the country. When Cromwell looked upon the Golden Vale, 
he said it was a country worth fighting for, and " no county east of the Shannon 
was more ruthlessly cleared of its inhabitants, or more thoroughly divided "^ 
amongst his troops. The county became a Cromwellian plantation, notwith- 
standing which it grew in time to be irrepressible in its defiant nationality 




Cahir Castle. — From southeast. 

Of antiquities, there are in the county many raths or earthworks, and the 
Round Towers at Cashel and Roscrea, in good preservation. Remains of castles 
are numerous, among the most notable being those at Nenagh, Thurles, Roscrea, 
Cahir, Ardfinnan, and Carrick. Of forty religious foundations, there are some 
fine specimens remaining, those of Athassel, Holy Cross, Hore Abbey, being 
especially so, while Cashel is pre-eminently the assemblage of ruins in Ireland, 
combining the attractiveness of ancient art, historical tradition and nature, and 
as much to be explored as Killarney, the Giants' Causeway, and the pyramidal 
mound of New Grange. 



TIPPERARY. 



607 




Ttcbrid Chttfch, Gravt of Gtoffrey Ktating 



Clonmel, the chief town of the county, is the head of the Suir navigation, 
and the outlet through which the corn and provision trade of this rich district is 
carried on with England. It is clean, thriving, and important, and in addition to 
the usual features of an assize and 

large corporate town, such as jail, ^^^ 

court-house,* and the like, presents 
the more attractive features of large 
flouring-mills, a well endowed gram- 
mar-school, founded in 1685, a cot- 
ton factory, and places of worship 
for more than the usual diversity of 
denominations in Irish towns. The 
Quakers are noticeably prominent in 
Clonmel. The traditional account of 
its origin is, that the most ancient 
settlers were guided to the locality by 
letting off a swarm of bees. Where 
the busy insects settled the adventurers built their fort, and named the place 
Cluain-Mealla, the plain of honey. A castle, in after times, stood on the site of 

the original fort, and before it 
Cromwell sustained the severest 
repulse he met with in Ireland, 
losing 2,000 men. The scenery 
around is striking. Behind the 
town undulating lands rise into 
mountains ; Slieve-na-man on the 
northeast, while the streets lead- 
ing toward the Suir seem to end in 
the Waterford Mountains. There 
are some ecclesiastical remains, and 
portions of the old walls, and the 
church of St. Mary is an ancient 
and picturesque edifice, although the octagonal tower, eighty-four feet in height, 

* It was here that Smith O'Brien and Thomas Francis Meagher, and their associates, were tried and sentenced to 
death, in 184S. Their bearing in the dock illustrated the chivalry of their character, and commanded the respect of 
their enemies. Alison says, " Their conduct on receiving sentence was at once courageous and dignified ; " and, having 
quoted portions of their speeches on the occasion, adds, " These are noble thoughts, couched in noble language, 
which will speak to the hearts of the right-hearted and the generous in every future age." The sentence of death was 
subsequently commuted to transportation. — Alison's History of Europe, vol. iv. 




Golden Bridsre. 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



is a strange restoration, not in keeping with the older style of architecture. It 
will add to the interest of the locality, to know that Laurence Sterne and the 
Countess of Blessino^ton were 



born 
town 
dedicated to 



n Clonmel. Near to the 

is one of the holy wells 

St. Patrick, and a 




Athassel Abbey. 



few miles distant the ruins of Don- 

aghmore Church, associated with 

the earliest period of Christianity 

in the country. 

Passing the river Anner, which 

the muse of Charles J. Kickham, 

a native of Mullinahone, has per-. ~^^ 

petuated in song, the road east- 
ward leads to the gallant old town 

of Carrick-on-Suir, where the river 

is crossed by an ancient stone bridge. The woolen trade started by the great 

Duke of Ormond, in 1670, flourished here until the close of the last century. 

From either side of the river there are noble 
views of the valley, and especially is it 
magnificent from the road leading to the 
lofty acclivities of Slieve-na-man, before 
reaching Glenbower. 

From Clonmel the tourist may take 
the road to Ardfinnan, where he will again 
meet the Suir, and see the ruins of the 
castle on a precipice overhanging the 
river ; and thence up to Cahir, or he may 
reach the latter by a direct road west. 
Before leaving the locality, however, if 
you be a student of history, and honor the 
application of industry and erudition, un- 
der adverse circumstances, to the preserva- 
tion of the traditions and facts of a nation's 
growth and glory, you will visit Tubrid, in 
which parish Geoffrey Keating was born, 

and in the ruined church of which he was buried more than two centuries ago. 




Entrance to Athassel Abbey 



6io 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 



Cahir is a well built and handsome town, on the Suir, situated under the east- 
ern end of the Galtees, and at the 
beginning of the rich branch of the 
Golden Vale that lies between them 
- and Knockmeledown. In the ear- 
^^|^j(,^^ Her part of this century the linen 
trade was in a flourishing condition 
here, but has decayed. It is a place 
of great antiquity, its ancient name 
being Cahir-dujinascaigh, the for- 
tress of the fish - abounding fort, 
which indicates that an earthen dun 




Rock of Cashel, south-east. 





Tower at Cashel. 



occupied the site on which a cahir, stone fort, was subse- 
quently erected. The island on which the castle was 

erected by Connor, king of Thomond, in 1142, was the 

site of the fort of the O'Lonergans, a sept that for ages 

held sway in the district. A curious map in the Pacata 

Hibernia, presents a view of the fortress when it was 

besieged by the earl of Essex, in 1599. The main 

quadrangle, with its keeps, is easily recognizable to-da)-. 

The extensive out- 
works are flanked by 
seven towers, three of 
which are circular. It 

has been repaired, and without injury to its his- 
torical character or picturesque appearance. 
The resources of the town and country offer 
many inducements to the tourist to sojourn 
here, and enjoy the scenery of the river and 
mountains, the glen of Aherlo, and visit the 
Caves of Mitchelstown, and the remarkable 
rath of Knockgraffon, an artificial mound 
about seventy feet high, above the summit of 
the hill on which it was constructed, and at the 
base of which the foundations of an extensive 
castle have been traced. 
Further up the river is the little village of Goldenbridge, pleasantly seated 



Entranct to Co? mac s Chapel 




\; 






"E' ^"i 



TIPPERARY. 



6ii 



on both sides of the Suir, which has been increased in volume by the streams 
from the Slieve Phelim Mountains, adding to the effect of the remarkably rich 
and beautifully varied country, through which it flows. The parts of the village 
are connected by an ancient stone bridge, upon which, it is said, William III. 
signed the charter of Cashel. Several fine demesnes are in the neighborhood, 
in one of which is Athassel Abbey, the remains giving ample evidence of orig- 
inal magnitude and splendor. It was founded in 1200, by Fitz Adelm de Burgo, 
for the Augustinians, an order celebrated for the beauty and finish of their 
structures, and whose abbeys in Ireland evince " a style of architectural elegance 
and grandeur but little inferior to their fabrics in England and on the continent." 
West of Goldenbridge is the old town of Tipperary, from which the county 

takes its name, the situation of 
which is remarkably fine, near the 
base of the Slieve-na-muck, or 
here called the Tipperary hills, 
near the opening of the glen of 
Aherlo, and with surrounding 
mountain and champaign scen- 
ery of a fertile and beautifully 
diversified character. In the op- 
posite direction, in the equally 
rich and attractive county around 
the western base of Slieve-na- 
man, is Fethard-Tip, an ancient 
place, with ruins of fortified walls 
and churches, memories of war 
and peace, refreshed by the Clashaluin stream, which, farther down, joins the 
Anner, the general bearer of all the waters of the district to the Suir. At Brook- 
hill, in the neighborhood of Fethard, was born Michael Doheny, who was "pro- 
claimed " in '48 ; a man of vigorous intellect and great talents, whose first twenty 
years of his life were as remarkable in their unlettered throbbings, as the re- 
mainder were active in the rostrum, at the hustings, and in the journal office. 

A few miles north of Goldenbridge, and we are at Cashel — Cashel of the 
kings. The " city " is insignificant and irregular, and in presence of the Rock 
and ruins, may be easily overlooked. Neither the history of the Rock, nor a 
description of the ruins, can be given, only briefly indicated ; suffice it that, for a 
thousand years, Cashel was the seat of regal power, a place of beauty and glory, 




The Tomb of Hitler Magrath. 



6l2 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




and the remains of its royalty and its ecclesiastical magnificence are, as Sir 
Walter vScott said, " such as Ireland may be proud of." 

The Rock, an elevated and detached mass of stratified limestone, is conspicu- 
ous for many miles around. Tra- 

dition has it, that Satan had bit- 
ten it out of Slieve-bloom, which 
accounts for the large gap in the ^j?' 
outline of that mountain, which ^ 
is called the " Devil's Bit." It ^ 
was called Shee Drum, the fairy Jl 
hill, and its utility as a site for a 
fortress was revealed to King ~ 
Core by two swineherds, who, ?= 
while their hogs fed in the woods ^ 
at its base, had a vision of St. 
Patrick comingf to consecrate the 



i'f'i 




Horc Abbey. 



hill. Core, who ruled Munster when Niall of the nine hostages Avas chief 
monarch (a.d. 379), built this fort, and the modern name is traced to Ctos, 
tribute, and Ail, rock ; from Core receiving his subsidies thereon. Others 
claim that the Irish word Caisel is derived from the same Indo-European source 
as the Latin Castellum, and that it was named from the castle or fort on its sum- 
mit. The Round Tower was, of course, the first erected of the present struc- 
tures, and it is very perfect, retaining even its original stone roof. When St. 

Patrick visited Cashel, yEngus was king. He 
became a convert, and, on his baptism, the 
saint, planting his crozler, stuck the spike of 
it through the foot of the king, who, in his 
zeal, never complained. The king presided 
soon after at a synod, at which St. Ailbe Avas 
'''^|- consecrated by St. Patrick, first bishop of 
Cashel. Late in the tenth century, it was 
fortified by Brian Boru, and early in the 
twelfth, Cormac MacCarthy, king of Munster, 
and archbishop of Cashel, founded the stone- 
roofed church which bears his name, and has 
long excited the wonder and admiration of ecclesiologists. The annals record 
its consecration in 1134, with great ceremony. There can therefore be no doubt 




Hore AbbLy Interior 



TIPPER A RY. 



613 



as to the age of this beautiful church, which is said, on competent authority, " to be 
equal to anything in England or Normandy of the same date." Between the town 
and the chapel stands the large church, a cathedral erected by Donald O'Brien, who 
defeated the English, four years later, at Thurles. There are also on the Rock 
the remains of another later building, supposed to have been a common hall for 
the vicar's choral, and at a short distance a curious cross, judged to be coeval 
with Cormac's chapel. The cathedral is perhaps the finest of the many fine 




u. 



Abbey. 



churches founded by the O'Briens. It is cruciform, with a huge square tower at 
the intersection ; and tower and side walls are embattled, for the Rock, as a royal 
residence and fortress, was often exposed to warfare. In the endless variety and 
beauty of the capitals in the interior, " may be found work as good and artistic as 
any in Westminster or Notre Dame." The well which supplied the community 
in peace, and garrison in war, is sunk through the solid rock more than one hun- 
dred and fifty feet. Its vicissitudes have been many. In 1498, Gerald, Earl of 



6i4 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Holy Cross, Interior. 



Kildare, angered at the part taken by Archbishop Creagh in his feud with the 
Butlers, stormed Cashel, and burned the cathedral. Brought before the king to 
atone for the sacrilege, he 
solemnly swore he "would g 
not have done it, only he 
thoughtthe archbishop was 
inside." It was urged that W 
all Ireland could not gov- 
ern this man ; then said the 
kincr, " he is the man to S 
govern all Ireland," and ap- ^ — — ^- 
pointed him viceroy. In "^z ~j^~~ 
1647 it was stormed and ^^ ^-E^g 
taken by the earl of Inch- 
iquin, when 3,000 people 

were massacred in cold blood, including twenty priests, many at the altar, whither 
they had taken sanctuary. In 1570, Elizabeth appointed an apostate, Miler 
Magrath, archbishop, who having "enjoyed the churches' plunder for sixty years," 
includingf two wives, died at the aee of one hundred, and was buried in the cathe- 
dral, where his monument is still to be seen. 

Under the Rock is Hore Abbey, or Grey Friar's, a fine and interesting ruin, 
in a comparative state of good preservation. It was founded by David Mac- 
Carvill, archbishop of Cashel in 1272, for Cistercians, and endowed with the 

revenues of the Benedictines, who were ex- 
pelled by him " out of the abbey of the Rock 
of Cashel, near the cathedral of St. Patrick." 
At four miles distance is the castle and de- 
mesne of Thomastown, both very beautiful, 
and assured to historic interest as the birth- 
place of Father Theobald Matthew, the great 
apostle of Temperance. 

Seven miles north of Cashel, and three 
south of Thurles — in which there are many 
ancient remains, including a castle belonging 
to the Knights Templars, several modern con- 
ventual institutions, as well as a Catholic college, and a cathedral capable of 
holding 7,000 persons — is Holy Cross Abbey, second only in interest to Cashel, 




The Monks' Restinj:-PIan., Holy Qo^s 



TIPPERARY. 



6is 




Stalactite Curtain, Mitchelstow7i Cave. 



and was founded in the same year as the cathedral on the Rock, by Donagh Car- 

bragh O'Brien, in honor of a portion of the 
holy Cross sent to the founder, by Pope 
Pascal II. It is situated on the western 
bank of the Suir, and is a work of great 
elegance and taste, having a beautifully 
J) groined chapel in the transept, and some 
fine monuments. It was endowed with 
peculiar privileges, and its abbot sat in par- 
liament as earl of Holy Cross. 

Nenagh, the second town of the county, 
was a stronghold of the Butlers, but has few 
antiquities. Roscrea, on the northeastern boun- 
dary, owes its origin to the foundation of a 
monastery in 620, and has some interesting re- 
mains, among them a Round Tower eighty feet 
high, having two windows, one arched and one 
pointed, fifteen feet from the ground. The 
caves at Mitchelstown are the most wonderful in Great Britain. 

Fraser's indication of the best locality from which to make an expedition to 
these remarkable subterranean 
palaces, chambers, and curiosi- 
ties may be kept in mind, as 
well as his brief suggestions, 
which will undoubtedly excite '1 
the anxiety of the curious to 
make a visit to them. About 
midway between Cahir and Mit- 
chelstown, and six miles from 
Clogheen, is a country tavern, 
or " public," at which the tourist 
will find it advantageous to 

sojourn ; as the caves are about Chamber m Middle Cave, Mitchelstown. 

a mile to the left of it. The new caves were discovered in 1833. 

Two small round hills, composed of the compact gray limestone of the valley, 
denote the site of the old and new caves. The more easterly, which rises about 
100 feet above the level of the coach road, contains the more recently discovered 




6i6 



PICTURESQUE IRELAND. 




Eddjard s Bed, Cromlech on Oalttt. More. 



and more interesting cave. Midway up the hill you enter, and the passage from 
the entrance to the first chamber is loo yards. For ten yards the opening or 
corridor is only four feet high, and declines at an angle of thirty degrees with 
the horizon ; descending thence fifteen feet by a ladder, you proceed for eight 
yards along an inclined plane, and on a level for the remainder of the passage. 

From the foot of the ladder the 
height varies from four to seven- 
teen feet, and the width averages 
nine feet, the floor of which offers 
many difficulties, being strewn 
with large blocks of limestone. 

The passage leads into an 
area between seventy and eighty 
feet in diameter and thirty feet 
high. From this lofty chamber 
there are several galleries lead- 
ing into others of various dimen- 
sions, fifteen of which have been explored. Of these the principal are called 
the House of Commons, the House of Peers, O'Leary's Cave, O'Callaghan's 
Cave, Kingsborough Hall, the Altar Cave, the Closets, the Cellar, and the Gar- 
ret. The stalactites depending from the roof of several of these caverns are ex- 
ceedingly beautiful, presenting every variety of form and every gradation of 
color ; in some places uniting with the stalagmites rising from the floors, and 
forming elegant columns of spar, and in others expanding into transparent 
surfaces, resembling elegant drapery, tastefully disposed in graceful folds. In 
some of the chambers the stalagmites rise in the form of massive pyramids, orna- 
mented at the base with successive tiers of crystallizations of the most fanciful 
designs, and in others in columns similar to those at the Giants' Causeway. It 
would be impossible to describe here the various galleries and chambers, or 
the splendid effects or forms of the ascending columns of spar, or descend- 
ing drapery of stalactites. The cavern explored is eight hundred feet long, 
and about five hundred and seventy in breadth, and the depression of the 
lowest chamber beneath the entrance fifty feet. While in this neighborhood, 
it may be mentioned that the largest cromlech seen by Hall was on Galtee- 
More ; and on Cromwell Hill, the large and remarkable sepulchral chamber 
called Labig yernitiddah, Edward's Bed. 



GENERAL I NDEX. 



Abbeys, principal : 

Adare, 560. 

Ardfert, 57. 

Askeaton, 560. 

Bective, 258. 

Black, 546. 

Cashel, 613. 

Clare-Galway, 238 

Cong, 583. 

Devinish, 488. 

Donegal, 385, 515. See Annals. 

Downpatrick, 590, 593. 

Dunbrody, 501. • 

Ferns, 501, 508. 

Holy Cross, 615. 

Innisherkin, 465. 

Jerpoint, 541. 

■ Kilkenny (St. Canice's), 545. 

Killaloe, 586. 

Limerick, 534. 

Moyne, 400. 

Muckross, 14, 15. 

Multifernam, 287. 

Peter and Paul (Meath). 251, 258. 

Quin, 586. 

Rosserk, 400. 

Saul, 594. 

Slane, 265, 272. 

Sligo, 510. 

St. John's (Priory) Kilkenny, 546. 

Tintern, 499, 500, 541. 

Abingdon, 552. 

Academy, Royal Hibernian, founded, 331. 

Royal Irish, 266 ; excavation of Dowth, 282 ; Usn- 

neach, 289. 
Achill. 3S2. 

cliffs of, 399. 

island, extent, character of the houses, Protestant 

mission on, 399. 
Act of Settlement, 428. 
Adamnanus, St., 263. 

holds a synod at Lusk, 303. 

Adams, Prof. Leith, on bone caves, 530, 
Adare, 557-559- 

castle, and abbeys at, 560. 

Adrigool Cataract, 467. 

-•Engus Kelideus, litany of, 434. 

^ngus McNafrach, king, 605. 



^ngus McNafrach, king, baptized by St. Patrick at Cashel, 
612. 

presides at a Synod, 612. 

Africa, wife of de Courcey, founded Grey Abbey, 597. 
Aghadoe, bishop's chair at, 17. 

Round Tower at, 17. 

remains at, 17. 

Aghmore, 51. 
Aglish, 530. 
Agnew's hill, 131. 
Aherlo valley, 602-610. 

Ailbe, St., consecrated first bishop of Cashel by St. Pat- 
rick, 612. 
Aileach, Grianan of, 518. 

Ainsworth, W., description of Ballybunian Caves, 56. 
Albert memorial, Belfast, 118. 

memorial, Dublin, by Foley, 367. 

Aldfrid, Saxon king, educated in Ireland, his poem on, 

248. 
Alexander III., Pope, bull on Glendalough, 86. 
Alfred, founded Oxford and selected professors from Bangor, 

596- 
Alison, sir A., historian, on patriots of '48, 607. 
Allen, Bog of, 471 ; lough, 487 ; rivers rise in, 471; road 

through bog, 471. 
Allibone, Dictionary of Authors^ 359. 
Altadaven glen, 536. 
Altadore, 102. 

Amtrican Fenians in Ireland, 339. 
Ameiican Tourist, on Dublin city, 326. 
Amoretti, Spenser, 456. 
Ancient MSS. in Trinity College, 370. 

monument to St. Patrick's nephew, 242. 

Andrews, Michael, linen trade, 120. 

Angler in Ireland, the, describes Roundstone, 215. 

Anglo-Normans, first expedition landed at Wexford, 497 ; 
first treaty with MacMurrogh, 506 ; cruelty at 
Waterford, 533 ; efforts at Limerick. 554 ; incursion 
into Connaught. 179 ; adopt Irish surnames and 
titles, 53S ; families in Antrim, 122. 

■ Thierry on, 122. 

Angulo, or Nangle, Gilbert de, 249 ; Jocelyn, 249. 

Annakeen, castle of undressed stone, 243. 

Annals of Clonmacnoise, 481. 

— ^ — of Donegal, 385. 

of Innisfallen, 32. 

The Four Masters, 495 ; compiled in Donegal ab- 

tiey, 515 ; extent of, 515. 

617 



6i8 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Annals on St. Brendan, 60. 

on Cathal Crovdearg O'Conor, 238 

on king Cormac, 276. 

on the death of St. Patrick, 594. 

on Newry, 601. 

originals in Royal Irish Academy, 37S. 

Annamoe river, 76. 

Anne, queen, portrait of, 379. 
Antisell, Dr. Thomas, 337. 

Antrim, county of, log ; features of, 109-110 ; Dr. 
Drummond on geological character of, 130. 

Coast of, 110; road on, 133; cliffs, ports and capes 

of, 146, 154 ; caves in, 166, 167 ; Fata Morgana 
on, 171. 

town of, founded, 176 ; battle at, 176. 

Apprentices' fatal demonstration in Dublin, 313. 
Aqueduct over the Rye Valley, 572. 

Aquila, Don John de, lands with the Spaniards at Kinsale, 

445- 
Archdall, 2S7, 472. 

Archdeacon, John, his wife's enterprise and economy, 415. 
ArchcEologia Hibernica (Wakeman), 7. 
Architecture, military, Carrickfergus castle, 120 ; Trim 

castle, 252. 
Ardagh, old house, 492. 
Aida iVd?nhid. 414. 
Ardbear harbor, 21S-219. 
Ardee, 490. 

Arderin, summit of Slieve Bloom, 479. 
Ardfert abbey, 57. 
Ardfinnan, 603 ; castle, 606-60S. 
Ardglass, towns and fortification at, 599. 
Ardgroome, 406. 
Ardkeen, ancient church, 59S ; besieged by Shane -O'Neill, 

598. 
Ard-Macha, 473. 
Ardmore. fishing village, 529. 

Round Tower and Holy Well, 530. 

Ardmulchan ruins, 271-272, 

Ards, peninsula, 589, 592, 597. 

separate jurisdiction, 592. 

towns in, divided between Roland and Raymond Sav- 

age, 598. 
Arklow, town of, 107 ; battle of, 107 ; Father Murphy 

killed at, 107. 
Armagh, county of. 473. 
the primatial see founded, 594 ; its colleges, 474. 

city of, 474 ; Catholic cathedral of, 474 

Brian Boru, his son and kinsmen buried in, 475. 

Armoy, tower at, 139. 

Arran, 177, 204. 

earl of, portrait of, 379. 

Islands, visited by St. Ibar, St. Enda, St. Benignus, 

St. Brecan. 1SS-190. 
visit of Ethnological section of British Association to, 

187. 

forts on, 187 ; discussion of objects on, iSS. 

Art, ancient Irish, specimens of, Adare abbeys, 560 ; Clon- 
macnoise, 472 ; combination of old Irish and new 
Anglo-Norman ideas examplified, 501; Glendalough, 



88 ; Kilmallock, 564 ; Irish decorative, 241 ; Book 

of Kells, 267, 270 ; Cross of Cong, 3S7 ; font at 

Clonard, 250. 
Artemidorus, Intro., i. 
Artificial caves described, 390. 
Artramont, 507. 
Ashford demesne, 388. 
Ashton, sir Arthur, holds Drogheda, 493. 
Askeaton, 560. 
Athassel abbey, 606, 611. 
AthencEiim , London, on New Grange, 2S1. 
Athenry, 244. 
Athlacca, 552. 
Athlone, 2S9 ; its military importance, 47S ; sieges of 

478. 
Athlumney castle, 259. 
Athy and castle, 570, 571. 
Audelys (Audleys), 122. 
Audley castle, 599. 
Aughalard castle, 383. 
Aughavanagh, 83, 102. 

Aughnanure, ancient yew at, 192 ; castle, 192. 
Aughrim, 243. 

battle of, 47S. 

river (Avonbeg), 106. 

Augustinian monastery, Ferns, 50S, 
Austria, empress of, visits Meath, 2S4. 
Avoca, 79; vale of, 103, 107. 
Avonbeg river, 83, 103, 106. 

Avondale, 103 ; description of, by Carr, 103. 

Avonmore, 79, S3, 103. 

Awbeg, Spenser's "gentle MuUa," 409. 



Bag-an-Bun, where the first Anglo-Normans landed. 407. 

Bagnalstown, 403. 

Bailey Light-house, Howth, 304. 

Bailie, Thomas, his tapestry, 371. 

" Balbec of Ireland," 562. 

Balbriggan, battle of, 299. 

Balch, W. S. , description of ascent of Mangerton by. 45. 

Baldoyle village, 306. 

Bald, Mr., engineer, 124. 

Baldwin, provost, 546. 

Balfe, Michael W., memorial window to, 3^1. 

Farrell's bust of, 376. 

Ballina, 390. 



fishing district, 212. 



Ballinacor, S3. 

Ballinahinch, 2 

Ballinatray, 523. 

Ballinasloe, 243. 

Ballincollig castle, 440. 

Ballinhassig, 444. 

Ballintoy, 143. 

Ballintra, 487. 

Ballyarthur, 103. 

Ballybeg, abbey and round tower, 454, 

Ballybunian. caves of, 55. 

Ballycarry, 124. 

desmesne, 95. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



619 



Ballycastle, 124. 133, 137 ; built up by Hugh Boyd, 138 ; 

collieries atj 13S. 
Ballydcnell, 487. 
Ballyhalbert, ruins, 591. 
Ballyhaunis, 382. 
Ballymahon, 291. 
Ballymena, 120, 172 ; Rath, 174. 
Ballymoney, 172. 
Ballymoon, royal residence, 402. 
Ballymore-Eustace, loS. 
Ballymurtagh mines, 104. 
Bally sadare, 511. 
Ballyshannon, 516. 

Ballyspellin spa, 547 ; Dr. Sheridan's lines on, 548. 
Ballyteague castle, 505. 
Ballyteigue (sea) lough, 499. 
Baltimore, 462. 
Banagher, 471. 
Bandon town, bigotry of, 446 ; inscription on, and Swift's 

addition, 446. 

river, 446, 461. 

Bangor, school of ; professors for Oxford selected from, 

596. 
Banim, John, 54b. 

Bank of Ireland — Old Parliament House — notice of, 370. 
Banks, sir Joseph, on Fingal's Cave, Staffa, i65. 
Bann, source of, 590. 
Bannow abbey, 499. 

town buried by the sand, 499. 

bay, 499, 500. 

Bantry, scenery of, 466. 

French expedition to, 468. 

Bar-an-oran quarries, 198. 
Bardic conventions, 444. 
Bards, 247. 

Bargy. See Forth. 

castle, 504. 

Barnesmore Gap described, 514. 515. 
Barnewall, sir Christopher, 303. 
Barons and baronies established, 249. 
Barret, Richard, prosecuted, 335. 
Barretts, Ballincoilig, 427. 

Barrow river, rise of, 471 ; meets the Suir, 501, 506, 537, 
570. 

towns on, 403. 

Barry, 414, 427. 

Confederate general, 427. 

David de, tomb of, 454. 

Gerald. {See Giraldus Cambrensis.') 

James, painter, 376 ; his birthplace, 432. 

Barry's court. 414. 

Barter, Dr., St. Ann's, 452. 

Bartlett, W. H., artist, on the beauty of Glengariff, 468 ; his 

Ireland, 128, t\.c., passim. 
Basaltic formations, extent of, in Ulster, 164. 

promontories in Londonderry, 578. 

"Battle of the Diamond," 476. 

Beaumont, Gustave de, on natural resources of Ireland, 

Intro., xii. 
Beauparc demesne, 272. 



Beauties of the Boyne, and its Ti ibtitary, the Blackwater, 
the, by Sir William R. Wilde, 246. {See Wilde, j*aj-- 
sivi.^ 

Bective monastery, 258 ; Wilde on, 259 

Bede, the Venerable, Intro., i. 

Beg-inis, light-house on, 54. 

Behnes, sculptor, 376. 

Belfast, situation of, no ; a modern town, no ; old places 
in, III ; growth of in; dry docks, etc., 113.; print- 
ing introduced, 114 ; educational institutions in, 
114 ; general impression of, 114. 

Bellevue demesne, 74. 

Bellinter, 265. 

Belmullet, 390. 

Beltinne or Bealtaine, 264. 

Ben-an-Danaan, 145. 

Beii-Edair (Howth), 296. 

Bengore, 146, 150. 

Benlevi, 390. 

Benmore, r34. 

Bennan (Benignus), St., 264, 265. 

church of, igo. 

Bennebola, Twelve Pins of, 194, 196 ; heights of, 198 ; 
view from, Igg ; described, 206 ; their extent, 206 ; 
Forbes on, 206 ; O'Flaherty on, 207 ; heights of 
principal summits, 208 ; Dr. Mackey on the plants 
of, 208 ; view from Clifden, 220 ; finest views of, 
226 ; Mourne mountains compared to, 600. 

Bennett, Bishop, tomb of, 415. 

Bennett's Bridge, 549. 

Ben-scalp-diva, view from., 200. 

Beola, 200. 

Bere Island, 467. 

Beresford, lord J. G. , primate, re-edifies Armagh Cathedral, 
474- 

Berger, Dr., on the geology of Rathlin, 148. 

Berkeley, George, bishop, 414. 

gifts to Yale and Harvard, 414, 546 ; his birthplace, 

550. 

earl, portrait of, 379. 

Bermingham, 180, 290, 571. 

Tower, 363 ; escapes from, 363. 

Bernard, St., illustrated MS. of, in Mount Melleray, 528. 

Bertraghboy bay, 206, 210, 215. 

Berwick, president Queen's College, Galway, report of, 

1S5. 
Bishop's chair, Aghadoe, 17. 
Bissett, 132. 

Black abbey (Kilkenny), 546. 
Black castle (Lough Gur), 558. 562. 
Blackrock castle, notice of, 419 ; corporate customs at, 

419. 
Black Sea harbor, 396. 
Black's Guide, 218, etc., passim. 
BlackstafI bridge, 599. 
Black valley, 22. 
Blackwater (Munster), course of, 406, 408, 522, 523. 

tributary of the Boyne, 259-264. 

source and course, 266. 

(Ulster), 475. 



620 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Blackwood' s Magazine, St. Brendan, 60. 
Blairs castle, 431. 
Blake, 180. 

admiral, 445. 

Thomas, 232. 

Blarney, route to, 448. 

castle and groves of, 44S, 450 ; notice of, 450. 

Stone, 450 ; kissing it, 451. 

"Blarney," Father Prout on, 450. 
Blaskets, the, 54. 
Blessington, loS. 

countess of, 608. 

" Blind loughs," 235. 
Bloody Foreland, 514. 
Blundel, 180. 

Boate, Natural History of Ireland, 538. 

Bodenstown — grave of Tone, 571 ; memorial to, 571. 

Bodkin, 180. 

Boece — Boetius, bishop, founder of Monasterboice, 495. 

Bog, Allen, 471 ; moving, at Dunmore, 234. 

Bohernabreena, 379. 

Boileau, general, 555. 

Bond, Oliver, patriot, executed, 323 ; buried, 360, 361. 

Bonmahon, 531. 

Boyd, captain, monument to, 350. 

Hugh, of Ballycastle, 138. 

Book of Armagh, 370. 

of Dimna, 370. 

of Kells; opinion of Westwoodand O'Neill on, 267, 270. 

of Lismore, 264. 

of Rights, quoted, 264. 

Borris, 403. 

BouUaye le Gouz, M., quoted, 436. 
Boyle, earl of Cork, monument to, 350. 

Robert, philosopher, 529. 

family, tombs of, in Youghal, 439. 

Boyletown, 47S. 

Boyne and its banks, 246. 

its course, castles and scenery, 246, 471, 571 ; histori- 
cal importance of, 247 ; discoveries on the banks, 
266 ; Rhine-like characteristics of, 272. 

battle of, James' headquarters before, 491 ; William 

before, 491. 

viaduct, 494. 

Brady, Dr. Nicholas, the Psalms, 446. 

Branach, 538. 

Brandon's, lord, cottage, 22. 

Bray, town of, 65. 

upper and lower loughs, 78. 

Bray-head, 64. 

tunnel through, 67, 293, 380. 

Brecan, St., tomb of igo. 
Bregia, 248. 

Brehons, 247. 

Brenan, Joseph, 337. 

Brendan, St., " The Voyager," 58 ; the voyages of. 59, 60 ; 
D. F. McCarthy's poem on, 58 ; Montalembert on, 
59 ; Otway on, 60 ; versions of, by Otway, Vora- 
ginias, Wynkin de Worde, etc., 60 ; French version 
of, 60 ; search for Hy-Brasail, 191. 



Brendan's land, 60. 

sea of, 60. 

Brewer, J. N., on the Devil's Glen, 97 ; on city of Dublin. 
328, passim, 351, 541, 547, etc. 

Brian Boru, king, 238 ; takes hostages from Cork and Lis- 
more, 423 ; expelled the Danes from the Shannon, 
554 ; king of all Ireland, 582 ; holds court at Kin- 
cora, Killaloe, 586 ; fortifies Cashel, 612 ; slain, 
307 ; his body rested at Duleek, 283 ; brought to 
Armagh cathedral, 475 . 

Bridget, St. . established convents, founded Kildare, 566; 
revered in Scotland, 566 ; relics in Downpatrick, 
595- 

Bristol, Ralph de, bishop, 566. 

British Association in Dublin, 295, 502. 

Brittas, 108. 

Broadhaven, Stags of, 383. 

Broad lough, gS. 

Brodar, slays king Brian, 307. 

Broghill, lord, defeats Muskerry at Knockniclasky, 37 ; 
captures Blarney Castle, 450. 

Bromius, bishop, 386. 

Brooke, sir Basil, 516. 

Browne, 180. 

Brown, George, apostate, archbishop of Dublin, 344. 

Brownhall demesne, 516. 

Bruce, Edward, lands at Olderfieet and captures Carrick- 
fergus, 122 ; crowned at Dundalk, 490 ; defeats 
Roger Mortimer at Kells, 267; arrives at Dublin, 
310. 

Robert, seeks refuge on Rathlin Island, 147 ; lesson 

from the spider, 147 ; takes Rheban, 570. 

William de, son-in-law of Strongbow, 479. 

Bruce's Castle, 147. 

Bruff, 552. 

Brugh-na-Boinne, pagan royal cemetery, 247, 276 ; its ex- 
tent, 27S. 

Brunei, Mr., engineer, 67. 

Bryce, James, Jr., Geological Notes on the concavity of the 
Giant's Causeway, 163. 

Buddhism in Ireland, 239. 

Bundoran, watering place, 516. 

Bunowen, 215, 39S. 

Bunratty, 582. 

Burgess, Wm., architect, 433. 

Burgo, Fitz Adelm de, founds Athassel Abbey, 6n. 

William de, 179 ; adopts Irish customs, 179. 

earl of Ulster assassinated, 122. 

Richard de, 478. 

Ulick de, founder of the Clan-Rickard, 243. 

Burke, sir Bernard, 375 ; on Cong, 3S8. 

■ Edmund, his birthplace, 359 ; boyhood, 458 ; Foley's 

statue of, 366, 369. 
Burkes, 236. 

Burren, its antiquities and oysters, 58S. 
Burrishoole Abbey, 398. 
Burrisoleigh, 602, 605. 
Bushmills, whisky of, 16S. 
Butler, James, purchases Kilkenny castle, 544. 

sir John, 505. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



621 



Butler, Pierce, eighth earl of Ormond, 539 ; founded Gram- 
mar School, Kilkenny, 546. 

sir Walter, governor of Kilkenny, his reply to 

Cromwell, 544. 

(Ormond), house of, 606. 

monuments to, 53S, 542. 

Rev. Dr., rector of Trim, 271. 

Butt, Isaac, founded the Home Rule party, 339. 430. 

Buttevant, 454. 

Butts Cross, the, Kilkenny, 546, 547. 

Cahill, Mr., sculptor, 584. 

Cahir, castle and town, 606, 608, 6io. 

Cahirciveen, 51. 

Caillemote, Williamite leader, 2S3. 

Caledon, 475. 

Callan, 539. 

Callanan, J. J., poem on Gougane Barra, 460. 

Campus Brigantiuin, 24S. 

Canals, 327, 4S7. 

Grand, 2S6, 31S, 342. 

Royal, 286 ; incorporated, 322, 342, 572. 

Cannera, St., refused permission to land on Scattery Is- 
land, 58S. 

Cannistown, choir arch, 265. 
Cape Clear, 464. 
Cappoquin, 40S, 522, 52S. 
Carbery, village and castle, 565, 571. 

west, 423. 

Carew, sir George, President of Munster, 427. 

sir Peter, 84. 

Cargin, 243. 

Carlingford, 490 ; abbey, 491. 

lough, 5go, 600, 601. 

Carleton, William, 536. 

Carlisle, earl of, opens Irish National Gallery. 338 ; statue 

of, 378. 
Carlow, county of, 401. 

small inland county, 401 ; general face of, 402 ; moun- 

tains on border, 401 ; ancient principality of Hy- 
kinsellagh, 402. 

early castles built in, 403. 

notice of Carlow castle, 403. 

partially destroyed, 404. 

town, chief features of, 403. 

cathedral, 403. 

college, 403. 

Carnlea, 132. 
Carnlough, 129. 
Carnsore Point, 499. 
Carntown castle, 492. 

Carolan, the Bard, monument to, 350. 

Carr, sir John, description of Avondale, 103, 104. 

Carra River, 50. 

Carran, the, near Island Magee, 127. 

Carran-Tual, ascent of, 42. 

view from, 43. 

Carrick-a-nook, insurgent nationalists assemble at, 532. 
Carrick-beg, 532. 
Carrickbyrne, hill of, 506. 



Carrickfergus, 120 ; castle, 121 ; military depot, 121 ; de- 
scription of, 122 ; captured by Bruce, 122 ; burned by 
Scots and Irish, 122 ; walled by Sidney, 123 ; cap- 
tures of, 123. 

bay, no. 

Carrick-on-Shannon, 487. 

Carrick-on-Suir, 539 ; castle, 606 ; woolen trade, 608. 
Carrig-a-Droid castle, 439 ; tradition of, 442 ; taken by 

Broghill. 443 ; gallantry of the bishop of Ross, 443. 
Carrigaholt, 588. 
Carrig-a-Hooley castle, a stronghold of Grace O'Malley, 

398. 
Carrigaloe, 413. 
Carrigan Head, 514. 
Carrig-a-R.ede, description of, 141, 142. 
Carrig Maur, Whyn-Dyke of, 136. 
Carrignacass ruins, 446. 
Carrignamuck, 439. 

Carrig-o-gunnel, 556 ; seat of the O'Briens, 559. 
Carrigrohane castle, 439. 
Carte, 539. 
Carthaguiney, 5S. 

Carton demesne, 567, 56S, 569, 572. 
Casey, J. S., 3S0. 
Cashel Hill, 215. 

ascent of, 206. 

of the Kings, 611. 

Rock of, 611 ; ruins at, 606 ; ruins visible from, 605 ; 

sir Walter Scott on, 612 ; traditions of, 612 ; origin 
of its name, 612 ; Round Tower on, 612 ; St. 
Patrick's visit to, 612 ; foundation of the buildings 
on, 6l2. 

cathedral stonned by earl of Kildare, 613. 

massacre in, by earl of Inchiquin, 613. 

Parliament adjourned to, 543. 

Cassan, " chronographer," 302. 
Cassel-ira church, 3S6. 
Castellated houses in Galway, 243. 

Castle— Cassell— or Castelli, Richard, architect, 371. 
Castlebar, 390 ; Round Tower, 400. 

races, 184. 

Castlebellingham, 490. ■ 
Castle-Caulfield dismantled, 536. 
Castle chapel, Dublin, 363. 
Castlecomer, 547 ; sacked in '98, 548. 

coal-fields, 53S. 

Castleconnell, 559. 

Castle-Dexter, 272. 

Castlehaven, 462. 

Castle-Howard, S3, 103 ; woods of, 104. 

Castle- Howell, 539. 

Castle-Inch, 439. 

Castle-Kieran, 266 ; crosses and Holy Well, 266. 

Castle-knock, 379. 

Castle MacAdam, 103. 

Castle-Martyr demesne, 436. 

Castle-Mary, cromlech at, 436. 

Castlemore, 406. 

CastletownRoche, 458. 

Castle-Townsend, 462. 



623 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Castleward demesne, 5gS. 
Castle-Wellan, 590 ; views from, 599. 
Castles : 

Aughnanure, 192. 

Carlingford (king John's), 490, 491. 

Carrickfergus, 121. 

Carntown, 492. 

Canig-a-Droid, 439. 

Garrig-o-Gunnel, 559. 

Castletown (Kildare), 572. 

Clare-Galway, 23S. 

Clonmines, 499. 

Courtstown, 54S. 

Curraghmore, 532. 

Doonany, 139. 

Dublin, 314, 362. 

Duncurry, 139. 

Dunluce, 163. 

Ferns, 402, 50S. 

Howth, 293, 303. 

Inchiquin, 5S4, 5S7. 

Kenbane, 140. 

Limerick (king John's), 555. 

Lismore, 529. 

Macroom, 443. 

Malahide, 299. 

Red Bay, 132. 

Roche's (Louth), 491. 

Savage's, 599. 

Shannid, 559. 

Swords, 303. 

Trim, 252. 

in Meath, 250. 

of the Plantation era, 4S3. 

Tower-houses in Wexford, 500. 

and Towers in Limerick, 504, 553, 560. 

Cathedral of Kildare, 566. 

of St. Mary, Limerick, 554 ; towers and bells of, 558. 

first built by Anglican Church in Ireland, 433 ; notice 

of, 434- 

Catholics, attend George IV., 331. 

Confederation of, 543; parliament of, in Kilkenny, 

543. 544 ; set up a press, 544 ; Limerick headquar- 
ters of, 555. 

excluded from fortified towns, 123. 

National Synod in Dublin, 313. 

Pro-Cathedral, Dublin, 377 ; designed by an Irish 

exile of '98, 378. 

under the Protectorate in Cork, 427. 

University, 343, 375. 

Caulfield, sir Toby, 536. 

Causeway, the Giant's, 109 ; routes to, 144. 

Cavan, county of. ancient principality of East Brefne, 520, 

the Cradle of the Shannon, 520, 4S7. 

lord, 517. 

Cave Hill, 114. 

Caverns conveying waters of lough Mask to lough Cor- 

rib, 3S3. 
Caves, in Antrim, 166. 
artificial, 390. 



Caves, Ballybunian, 55, 56. 

Cappoquin, 530. 

Clady, 266. 

Coast of Clare, 5S0. 

about Cong, 3S3. 

Dunkerry, 167. 

Dunmore (Kilkenny), 547. 

Grace Staples,' 141, 167. 

Lisheen-Ard, 390. 

of Mayo, 3S3. 

of Mitchelstown. 610. 

Pigeon Hole, 234. 

Shandon, Dungarvan, 530, 

Port Coon Cave. 167. 

in the PuUens (Donegal), 516. 

Celbridge, 571. 

Abbey, meeting of Swift and Vanessa at, 571, 

Cells-rtV/j-, in Meath, 275. 

Cesarea, cairn of, 244. 

Chamberlain, 122. 

Chantrey, sculptor, 366. 

Chapella, Richard de la, 249. 

Charlemagne, gift to Clonmacnoise, 472. 

Charlemont Fort, 475; defended against Schomberg by 
Governor O Regan, 476. 

Charles II., restoration of, 313 ; portrait of, 379. 

Cheek-point, 534. 

Chesterfield, lord, 379. 

Chichester, Arthur, frustrates capture of Carrickfergus, 
123. 

founder of Belfast, 123. 

Child, Francis S., edited Spmscr''s poems, 45S. 

Chimney tops. Giant's Causeway, described, 154. 

Christianity, arrival of, 246. 

Christ's Church cathedral, Dublin, history of, 493, 343. 

Church bay (Rathlin), 146. 

Church collections in the United States, 243. 

" Church of the Oaks," 566. 

Churches, designations of stone and wooden, 2S3. 

City Hall, Dublin, 365. 

statues in, 366. 

" City of the Tribes," the, iSo. 

Claddagh, the population, character and customs of, 1S4. 

Clady, 26C. 

Clancarty (Muskerry) earl of, estates restored to, 451. 

Clandeboy, 596. 

Clane, 569. 

Clantia Bvcaghain, 248. 

Clanrickard, Galway surrenders to Earl of, 238. 

"Clan Savages of the Ards," 592. 

Clara, vale of, 79 ; hamlet, 82. 

Clare, county of, diversity .and advantages of its surface 
579 ; water front of, 5S0 ; character of the coast, 
5S0 ; old families of Thomond, 5S2 ; the O'Briens, 
582 ; granted by Edward I. to Thomas de Clare, 
582 ; opposed by the O'Briens, 582 ; made shire 
I ground and called Clare, 5S2. 

Clare, Catherine de, murders imputed to, 508. 

Clare, Thomas de, receives a grant of Thomond, 582 ; op- 
posed by the O'Briens, 5S2. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



623 



Clare-Galway abbey, 236 ; castle, 23S. 

Clare Island, residence of Grace O'Malley, 395. 

Clarence, duke of, holds a parliament at Kilkenny, 543. 

Clare river, 236. 

Clare town, 5S2. 

Clashmore, 530. 

Clety, 276. 

Clew Bay, 391, 394 ; described, 395. 

Clifden, 20S, 214, 215, 21S ; its foundation and growth, 21S ; 
cascades at, 218 ; harbor advantages of, 219 ; Cas- 
tle, 219 ; market day, 220 ; Forbes on, 220. 

Cliffs and precipices : 

Cape Clear, 464. 

Carrigan Head, 514. 

of Commeragh, 396. 

Dundonolf, 533. 

of Galteemore, 396. 

■ Gobbin, 124 

Horn Head, 514. 

Inishman, 188. 

Inishmore, 187. 

Keene, 399. 

of Keeper, 396. 

of Kippure, 396. 

Lug-na-.Vaimk, 396. 

Lug-na-Quilla, 396. 

MagiUigan, 171. 

of Mangerton, 396. 

Minaune, 399. 

Moher, and coast of Clare, 580, 

Pleaskin, 150. 

Port Moon, 145. 

Portrush, 171. 

of Rathlin, 147. 

Saddle Head, 399. 

Slieveleague, 512. 

Teeiing Head, 514. 

Clochan, 220. 

Clogheen, 615, 

Clogher, 536. 

Cloghreen, village of, 17. 

Clonard, 250 ; tumulus at, 250 ; battle of, in 'gS, 250 ; sculpt- 
ured font at, 250. 

Clondalkin Round Tower, 3 So. 

Clones, 488. 

Clon-mac-Noise, annals of, 66 ; towers, churches, castles, 
471 ; notice of, 472 ; cross, 472. 

Clonmel Church, Queenstown, 413. 

town. 606 ; traditions of its origin, etc., 607 ; Crom- 
well repulsed at, 607. 

O'Brien and Meagher tried for treason in, 607. 

Clonmines, ruins of, 499 ; mint at, 500. 

Clontarf, 306 ; battle-ground, 307 ; repeal meeting at, pro- 
hibited, 332 ; events preceding and resulting from, 
334, 335, 380. 

Clontibret, Hugh O'Neill defeats the English at, 4 88. 

Cloughan-ard-hill, 220. 

Cloi'-gh-i-Stookan, 129. 

Cloughmore, 601. 

Clovis II. gives St. Fursey land for a monastery, 235. 



Cloyne, 414 ; Cathedral and Round Tower, 414; moment 
in, 415- 

Cluain-Mealla, 607. 

Cnoc and Ben, signification of, 200. 

Coal districts, 603. 

discovery of, in Kilkenny, 538. 

Kilkenny noted for, 546. 

Cobbett on surrender of church property, 268. 

Cody, James, covers the retreat at ScuUagh Gap, 402. 

Coeynagall, monument to, 57S. 

Cogan, John de, 236. 

Miles de, 424. 

Rev. A., 246. 

Colcha, St., president of Clonmacnoise, receives a gift from 
Charlemagne, 472. 

Colclough, John Henry, executed, 505. 

Cole, sir Lowry, monument to, 482. 

Coleraine, 171, 573. 

Salmon Leap, 575, 577. 

Colgan, 594. 

College Green, Dublin, 366 ; statues on, 366. 

Colleges, Belfast, 114. 

Carlow, 403. 

Clongowes Wood, 569. 

Columba, 272. 

Drumcondra, 306. 

Kilkenny, 546. 

Maynooth, 56S. 

Trinity, Dublin, 312. 

Queen's, Belfast, 115; Cork, 431; Galway, 185. 

Collegiate Church, Youghal, monuments in, 439. 

Colleys, ancestors of Wellington, 270, 571, 

CoUeries, antiquity of, in Ireland, 13S. 

Colman, scholar and poet, 414. 

Coltsman, Mr., builds castle at Glen Flesk, 50. 

Columba, St., 566. 

Columbkille, St., fostered at Kilmacrenan, 517 ; founded 
monastery at Swords, 303 ; founded Derry, 573 ; 
legend of miraculous interposition to defeat the 
English, 574; relics in Downpatrick, 595. 

Coman, St., founder of Roscommon, 478. 

Comgall, St., founded the great school of Bangor, 596. 

Commeragh Mountains, 531. 

Comyn, archbishop, tomb of, 346. 

Confederation of Kilkenny planned in Multifernam, 288. 

Cong, 231, 383 ; situation of, 383 ; tomb of Roderick 
O'Conor, 383; abbey of, restored in part by sir 
B. L. Guinness, 383. 

Congreve, William, dramatist, 529 ; at school, 546, 

Conlath, St., first bishop of Kildare, 566. 

Conn of the hundred fights, 178 ; defeats Eogan More, 
307- 

Connemara, trip to, 191; character of, 194; Miss Martineau 
describes, 195; are the lands available for agricul- 
ture ? 204 ; its plants alid flowers, 208, 2i5 ; its 
western coast, 216 ; the country of salmon, 216 ; 
Thackeray on, 218, 224 ; Mr. Ellis on, 222. 

Connaught, Anglo-Norman incursion into, 179. 

Connor, king of Thomond, erects Cahir Castle, 5io. 

Conolly family, 572. 



624 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Constantine, Jeffrey de, 249. 

Convoy, 514. 

Conway, Rev. Peter, 243. 

Cooley, Thos., architect, 359, 365. 

Coolnacartan Hill, 195, 196 ; view from, 201. 

Coolnamuck, 532. 

Coom Dhuv, 22 (see Black Valley). 

Coote, 183. 

sir Charles, 123; ruins the town of Ferns, 500; killed 

at Trim, 255. 
Copeland Islands, 597. 
Coppinger, sir W. , 534. 
Corbet, Miles, a regicide at Malahide, 299 . 
Core, king of Munster, builds a fort at Cashd, 612. 
Corcomroe, 5S4. 
Cork, county of, 405; the largest county in Ireland, 405; its 

fine bays and harbors, 406 ; character of scenery, 

406 ; mountains, 406 ; extensive coast and abundant 

fresh waters, 407. 

city, position and description of, 420 ; history, 421 ; 

ancient port of, 423 ; sea avenue to, 409 ; wasted in 
gth century, 423; Danes effect a settlement, 423; a 
walled town at Anglo-Norman invasion, 423; capi- 
tal of Desmond, 423 ; conflicts between Anglo- 
Normans and MacCarthys of Desmond for its pos- 
session, 424 ; a civic magistrate appointed, 425 ; 
growth of the city, 426 ; the Mayor beheaded at 
Tyburn, 426 ; deprived of charter, 426; position 
during 15th and l6th centuries, beset with " rebel 
enemies," 427 ; mixed nature of population, 427 ; 
Mayor refuses to proclaim James I., 427; new 
charter, 427; in the War of the Confederates, 427; 
proclaims Charles II. and vainly petitions for its 
rights, 428 ; James II. arrives, 428; city surrenders 
to William III., 42S ; continued extension of the 
city, 42S; its nationality, 429 ; the Young Ireland 
agitation. 429; the Fenian movement, 430; principal 
streets, bridges, buildings, etc., 430, 431, 432, etc. 

cathedral, first erected by the Protestants of Ireland, 

433- 

harbor, extent of, 409; islands in. 410. 

library, American contributions to, 435. 

Cormac's chapel, 609; consecrated, 612; opinions of its 

beauty, 613. 
Cormac MacArt, king, retirement, studies and death. 276 ; 

incidents of his burial at Rosnaree, 276. 
Corofin, 242. 
Corrann AchiU, 399. 

Corrib, Lough, 192; described, 232; largest islands in, 240. 
Corruiidii, 605. 
Corryvreken, 150. 
Cottingham, Mr., architect, 474. 
Coulston, Wm., linen trade, i2o. 
Coumshinaun, the Valley of Ants, 531. 
Courcey, 16S. 

sir John de, 122 ; lord Kinsale, premier baron of 

Ireland, his rights, 445 ; settles in Downpatrick, 
591 ; endows Downpatrick abbey, 595. 

Courtstown castle, 548. 

Cove, Queenstown, 409. 



Cox, Sir Richard, portrait of, 379, 462 ; lord chancellor 

and lord justice, 446. 

Samuel S., on Belfast, 118. 

Coyne, J. Sterling, on Killarney, 24, 128. 

Craigs Rocks, 174 ; druidical remains described, 174. 

Craik, Spenser a7id his poetry, 458. 

Crampton, sir Philip, 78. 

Cranagh barony, 548. 

Cranfield Point, 589. 

Cratloe, woods and castles, 587. 

Crawford, Sharman, 596. 

Crawfordsburn, 596. 

Creadenhead, 534. 

Cregan, Martin, artist, 376. 

Cregg castle, 238. 

Crimthan, king, his cairn, 306 ; his fort, 296 ; fitted out 

expedition in the first century against the Romans, 

423. 
Croghan-Kinsella, 107. 
Croagh Patrick, ascent of, 394, 395, 398. 
Croker brothers, 534. 

T. Crofton, 39, 427. 

Crolly, Dr., Catholic primate, 474. 
Cromaglan Mountain, 7. 
Cromlechs, 7. 

Ballyumpage, 126. 

Castle Mary, 436. 

Comber, 590. 

Craigs Rocks, 174. 

Cromwell's Hill, 616. 

County Down, 590. 

Drumbo, 590. 

Drumgooland, 590. 

on Galtee More, 616. 

Knockeen, 531. 

Rathfrdand, 590. 

Sliddery Ford, 590. 

Slieve-na-Griddal, 590. 

Cromwell, Oliver, 1S3, 395 ; at Malahide, 299 ; siege and 
butchery at Drogheda, 493 ; slaughter at Wexford, 
505 ; at Kilkenny, 544 ; jokes at Cork, 427, 606, 
etc. 

Cromwell's Bridge, Glengariff, 46S ; view from, 470. 

Fort Drogheda, 493. 

Rock, Wexford, 505. 

Cromwellian families of Cork, 427. 
Cronbane, copper mines, 104. 
Crookhaven, 463, 465. 

Croom, 559 ; Round Tower and Cyclopean Church, 562. 
" Cross of Cong," 3S7 ; described, inscription and names 

on, 388. 
Cross, a piece of the true, sent by the Pope to king Tur- 

lough O'Conor, 3S7. 
Crossfamogue point, 499. 
Crosshaven creek, 410. 
Crossmolina, 390. 
Cuaii-iia-Grian, the, 533. 
Curragh of Kildare, 565. 
Curraghmore, 532. 
Curran, J. Philpot, 350, 380. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



625 



Curran, Sarah, love of Emmet for, 323. 

"Curse of Scotland," the, 549. 

Cusack, M. F., Nun of Kenmare, 264. 

Cushendall, 131, 132. 

Cushendun, I2g, 134. 

Custom House, Dublin, described, 351. 

Cyclopean structures, Croom, 562. 

Killaloe, 5S6. 

Staigue fort, 7. 

Dagobert, educated at Slane, 275. 

Daim-liag, stone house, 2S3 

Dalaradia, 122. 

Dalkey Island, 295, 380 ; hill, 3S0. 

Dallans, 7. 

Dalriada, 122. 

Dalton, 534. 

Daly, James, 510. 

Rev. Peter, of Galvvay, 186. 

Dan, lough, 75. 

Danes, in Waterford, 533. 

wasting Kildare, Meath, Dublin, 533. 

on the Shannon, 554. 

various references under Dublin, Waterford, Cork, etc. 

Dangan castle described by Mrs. Delany, 269. 

Dante, Diviiia Coinmedia founded on St. Fursey's visions, 
236. 

Darcy, Patrick, judiciary representative in Confederate 
parliament, 544, 

D'Arcy, iSo, 

founder of Clifden, 218. 

of Dunmoe, 272. 

Dargle, or Glenislorane, river, 67. 

descril^ed, 68. 

Darin i, STi. 

Dargan, Wm., 66 ; projects the Industrial Exhibition, 337 ; 
declines knighthood, 338 ; visited by queen Vic- 
toria, 338 ; statue of, 338, 376. 

Davies, sir John, 488. 

dean, Cork, 450. 

Davis, Thomas, Intro, v., plea for preservation of the ruins, 
vii., xi., 336, 369 ; birthplace, 454 ; places slab on 
Tone's grave, 571. 

Davitt, Michael, 510. 

Dead Christ, the, by Hogan, 435. 

Deala, Slainge Mac, Firbolg king, 402. 

Dean, admiral, 445. 

Deane, 180. 

sir Thomas, architect, 431. 

Dearg, lough (Shannon), 243. 

Declan, St., 529. 

Deel, confluence with the Shannon, 562 

Deer-park, 174, 

seat of the O'Kanes, 573. 

" Defenders," 476. 

Delamers, 2S7. 

Delany, Mrs.. 269. 

Delaware Water-Gap, Intro., vi. 

Delgany village, 75. 

Delphi, 390, 393. 



Derg, lough, 514. 

Derivaragh, scenery of, 286, 287. 

Derrick quoted, 39, 40. 

Dekrv, 573, 574 ; desire of Elizabeth to possess, 574 ; taken 
by Sir H. Dowcra, 574 ; he builds an English 
town which is burned by O'Doherty, 574. 

city (Londonderry), picturesque features of, 577 ; the 

walls of, 577 ; famous siege and defence of, 577, 
578 ; siege and defence of, 577, 57S ; Lord An- 
trim's regiment shut out, 577 ; King James fired 
on, 578; sufferings of the besieged, 578; sal- 
lies by, 578. 

Derryclare hill, 195 ; ascent of, ig8. 

Derrycunnihy cascade, 7 ; description of, 26 ; stag hunting 
at, 26 ; hills, 24. 

Derrygonelly, 483. 

Derrygore House, 4S4. 

Derrj'-hill, fight at, 574. 

Derrynane abbey, O'Connell's residence, 51. 

"Deserted Village, The," scene of, 271 ; views in, 292, 

Desii, 605. 

Desmond, Thomas, earl of, beheaded, 492 ; monument to. 
493- 

earl of, beats the Lancastrians at Wexford, 505. 

countess of, who lived 140 years, 523. 

stronghold at Strancally, 523. 

legend of the last chief, 562. 

Devil's-Glen, waterfalls in, 95 ; described, 96 ; Brewer on. 

97 ; Spanish poem on, 97. 
Devil's Punch-Bowl, 8, 44 ; Charles James Fox at, 44. 
Devinish, visit to, 483 ; description of, 484 ; antiquities 

on, 484-485; Round Tower, 485; character and 

sculptures of, 486, 
Devlin, Anne, 3S0. 
Devonshire, duke of, portrait of, 379. 
Devorgoilla retires to Mellifont abbey, 495. 
Dicho receives St. Patrick and is converted, 594. 
Dillon, 180. 

John B., 369, 380. 

sir Lucas, altar tomb of, 258, 

Dingle Bay, 54. 

Dingley, Mrs,, 270. 

Dinis island, 30, 51. 

Dimighy royal residence, 402. 

Diocese of Meath, ancient and modern, by the Rev. A, 
Cogan, dean and archivist, etc., 3 vols, quoted, 246 
Disestablishment of Anglican Church Act, 346. 

Dobbs, Arthur, surveyor-general, 371, 

Dodder river, 294 ; suburban places on, 379. 

Doheny, Michael, 460; V\i Felon's Track, 461, 6ii. 

Doire-Calgach, 573. 

Dollard, Adam, 294. 

Dollymount, 306. 

Donabate, 302. 

Donaghadee, 597 ; rath, 590. 

Donaghmore Church (Tipperary), 608. 

Round Tower (Meath), 26S. 

Donatus, Ostman bishop, 344. 

Donegal abbey, founded by Nuala, 515 ; the English un- 
der Nial Garv driven out. 515 ; monks return and 



626 



GENERAL INDEX. 



dwell in the ruins, 515 ; compile the Annals of the 
Four Masters, 515. 

Donegal castle, 515. 

Donegal, county of, 513 ; scenery of, 513 ; highlands, 514 ; 
mountain glens and lakes, 514. 

• town and bay, 515. 

Doneraile, 455. 

Donn, fairy king, 562. 

Donnelly, Dr., bishop of Clogher, makes better accommo- 
dations for lough Derg pilgrims, 517. 

Donnybrook, 379. 

Donore hill, 2S3, 2S4. 

Donough, king of Ossory, founded Jerpoint Abbey, 540. 

Donoughmore (Down) church and graveyard, 600, 601. 

Doolin, immense rocks thrown up by the ocean, 580. 

Doon hill, igg. 

Point, development of basaltic formation on, 148. 

rock of, 517. 

investiture of the chiefs of Tyrconnell on, 51S. 

Dorset, duke of, Viceroy, fight with parliament, 319, 

320. 
Douglas, general, 47S. 

village of, 419. 

Dowcra, sir Henry, takes Derry and builds an "English 

town," '574. 
Dowdall, sir Launcelot, his sacrifice for the Stuarts, 259. 
Down, county of, 589 ; extensive coast line of, 5S9 ; bays, 

5S9 ; ancient name, 591 ; present name, 5S9 ; De 

Courcey makes a settlement, 591. 
Downdaniel Castle, 446. 
Downpatrick, De Courcey, founds religious establishments, 

591 ; principal families, 592 ; abbey erected by St. 

Patrick, 593 ; the apostle died here, 594 ; cathedral 

restorea, 395 ; shrine of St. Patrick desecrated by 

lord Deputy, 59S. 

cathedral, 590. 

rath, 590. 

head, 400. 

Down Survey, quoted, 591. 

Dowth, mound of, 279 ; notice of, 2S1 ; examination of by 

Royal Irish Academy, 282. 
Doyle, bishop (J. K. L.), Hogan's statue of, 401. 

J. B., 136, 144, 51S, 59S, etc. 

Drake, sir Francis, chased by Spanish fleet, 409. 

John, a recluse at Muckross, 12. 

Drehidtarsna. 552. 
Drimoleague, 40S. 

Drogheda, 489 ; historical notice of, 492 ; Richard II. 

holds court at, 492 ; Parliament at, 492 ; taken by 

Cromwell, 493 • butchery at, 493. 
Dromana forest, 523. 

Dromcliffe Church and Round Tower, 584. 
Dromore castle. Limerick, 560. 

Co. Down, new cathedral at, 596. 

rath, 590. 

Druids, Druidical remains, 7, 174, 247, 264, 276, 281, 289, 

444. 448, 534. 536. 553- Sf'^. etc. 
Drumbo, Round Tower, 591. 
Drumcliffe, crosses and tower remains, 512. 
Drumcollagher, 551. 



Drumcondra, 294. 
Drumdaleague, 461. 
Drumgoff, 83. 

Drummond, Thomas, under-secretary, Hogan's statue of 
36&- 

Dr W. H., on Antrim, Iio ; on Fair Head, 135 ; on 

Ballycastle collieries, 139-147, 166. 
Dubh-Chathair, 1S7. 
Dublin, county of, 293. 

bay, 294 ; its beauty noticed by Willis, Hall, Brewer, 

Campbell, Creswick, 295, 296. 

castle, 314, 315 ; notice of, 362 ; portraits of viceroys 

in, 365. 

City, magnificent situation, 293; celebrated for its public 

buildings, 351 ; position, history and character, 307 ; 
earliest account of, 307 ; a noble city at the time of 
St. Patrick, 307 ; arrival of the Danes, 307 ; Fingall 
and Dubhgall, 308 ; called by the Danes Diveline — 
Dublin, 308 ; Danes elect a king and fortify the 
city, 308 ; battle of Clontarf, Anglo-Norman incur- 
sion, 30S ; Henry II. arrives and entertains the 
natives, 309 ; recalled to England, 310 ; arrival of his 
son John as lord of Ireland, 310 ; bridge built over 
the Liffey, 310 ; panic of citizens on arrival of Ed- 
ward Bruce, 311 ; Richard II. maintains a splendid 
court, 311; honors to the municipality, 311; Simnel 
crowned in Christ's Church cathedral, 311 ; Poyn- 
ings installed as lord deputy, 311 ; rebellion of 
" Silken Thomas," 312 ; monastery of All-Hallows 
dissolved and Trinity College founded, 312; Dublin 
during the civil wars, 312 ; Ormond resigns the gov- 
ernment to commissioners of parliament, 312 ; seiz- 
ure of the castle in behalf of the Restoration, 313 ; 
chief magistrate made " Lord Mayor," 314 ; Na- 
tional Catholic synod, 314 ; city improvements, 
314 ; great inundation of the Liffey, 314 ; ar- 
rival of James II., 314 ; military entry of Wil- 
liam III. after the Boyne, 314 ; buildings of stone 
and brick introduced, 315 ; city bounds ex- 
tended, 315 ; parliamentary grants for city im- 
provements, 317 ; theatres and hospitals, 318 ; 
some parliamentary history, 319; conflicts between 
Parliament and the viceroy, 320, 321, 322 ; Octen- 
nial bill carried, 321; independent legislature de- 
clared, 322 : the first steam engine in Dublin, 322 ; 
'98, the " Union," and Emmet's rebellion, 323 ; be- 
fore and after the Union, 327 ; change in manners 
and customs, 32S ; hospitals and churches, bridges 
and docks, 331 ; visit of George IV., 331 ; first railroad, 
332 ; political agitations, 383 ; prohibition of re- 
peal meeting at Clontarf, 332 ; trial of O'Connell 
and his associates, 335 ; release and triumphal pro- 
cession, 335 ; " Young Ireland" agitation, Dublin in 
1848, 336 ; arrest of leaders and journalists, 336 ; 
visit of queen Victoria, 337 ; Industrial Exhibition 
of 1853, 33S ; excitement during Fenian agita- 
tion. 338 ; Home Rule Conference, 339 ; centennial 
celebration of the birth of Moore, 340 ; customs 
duties at, 341 ; woolen and linen trade, breweries 
ami distilleries, 342 ; railways and canals, 342 ; 



GENERAL INDEX. 



627 



progress of population, 343 ; historical edifices, 
343 ; monuments, 344, 346, 350, 351, 354, etc. 

Dublin City Hall, 31 S. 

JIusical Academy, 270. 

mountains, 103. 

waterworks, extent of, at Roundwood, 75. 

Penny Journal, 246. 

Dubtach, arch poet, converted to Christianity, 265. 

Dufferin, earl of, 596. 

Duffy, sir Charles Gavan, arrested '4S, 335, 336. 

Duleek, first stone church in Ireland, 2S2. 

ruin and tower at, 283. 

Dumha Slainge, 402. 

Dun-a-Mase, rock of, 479. 

fortress on, taken and retaken, 4S0 ; fortifications de- 
scribed, 4S0. 

Dunanore castle, 464. 

Dun-.<Engus, 187. 

Dunbeg, 580. 

Dunboyne, lord, bishop, scholarship foundation in May- 
nooth, 569. 

Dunbrody abbey, 501, 502, 541, 

Dtm-Crimthan (Howth), 296, 306. 

Dundalk, 4S9 ; ancient naval fight at, 490. 

Bruce crowned in, 490. 

Dundonald rath, 590. 

Dundonolf, Irish thrown over the cliffs, 533. 

Dundrum bay, 599; castle, 599. 

Dunfeeny, 382. 

Dungannon, 536. 

Dungar\'an, 530. 

Dungiven, 576 ; castle and church, 578. 

Dunkechan cavern, 303. 

Dunkerron, ruins of, 7. 

Dun-Leary, changed to Kingstown, 331. 

Dunloe, gap, 17 ; cave, iS ; castle, iS. 

Dunluce castle described, 169 ; Willis and Taylor on, 170 ; 
treacherously seized, 170 ; views from, 171. 

Dunmanus bay, 465. 

Dunmanway, 462. 

Dunmoe castle, defence of, 272. 

Dunmore, 534. 

caves (Kilkenny), 547. 

Dun-Oghill, 187. 

Dun-Onagh, 187. 

Dunran, glen of, gg. 

Dunseverick, rock and ruins, 143. 

Durrow, 250. 

Dutton, Hely, Statistical Survey of Clare, 239, 580. 

Dwyer, Michael, a patriot leader in '98, 79. 

Dysart, 2S6; castle and ruins, 550. 

Eagle's nest, Killarney, echoes at. 27 ; Weld and Okendon 

on, 27. 

Bantry, 468. 

Eainhain Macha, palace of Ulster Kings, 475. 

Ebel, Celtic Studies, translated by Dr. W. K. Sullivan, 435. 

Ebla7ia-Eblani, 307. 

Edgecombe, sir Richard, envoy of Henry VII. to take 

homage of the Irish, 311. 



Edgeworth, Maria, 270, 290 ; her influence on Scott, 291 
his visit to her, 291 ; at Blarney with Scott, 450. 

Edgeworthstown House, 290. 

Edward I. granted Thomond to Thomas de Clare, 582. 

Eglinton, lord, statue of, 374. 

Eldon, lord, hastens departure of George IV. from Ire- 
land, 331. 

Elizabeth, Charlotte, 203. 

Elizabeth, queen, gives silver collar of SS. to mayor of 
Cork, 427 ; offers to make Grace O'Malley a 
countess, 3g8 ; impatient to secure Derry, 574. 

Elk, remains of, 530. 

Ellis, Mr., improvements in Connemara, 222. 

Ely, lord, 570. 

Ely O'CarroI, 53S. 

Emmet, Robert, capture and execution, 326. 

his grave, W. J. Fitzpatrick on, 360. 

Enda, St., 188. 

Ennis, 583 ; ruins and relics, and monuments in, 5S4. 

Enniscorthy, 4g8, 501, 506 ; castle, 507. _ 

Enniskerry, village of, 67. 

Enniskillen, 4S1, 482, 483. 

Eogan Mor, king of Munster, 178 ; slain, 307. 

Ere, first bishop of Slane, 265. 

Eric, Bryan Balloughe's, 123. 

Erigena, John Scotus' birthplace, 595. 

Erne, lough, extent of, 48 1. 

connected with the Shannon, 489. 

Inglis on, 482. 

Erris, district of, 400. 

Eshery, 132. 

" Eskers," described, 480 ; 

Esmond, Dr. John, executed, 323. 

Essex, earl of, expedition against O'Neill, 123 ; Elizabeth's 
letter to, 574 ; besieges Cahir, 610. 

Ess-waterfall in Glenmalure, 83, 84,. 103. 

Eva, princess, wife of Strongbow, 344; her long-lost mon- 
ument, 346, 500. 

Evans, Mr. , bridge builder, 494. 

Eyre, Mr., 219. 

Fairhead, 132 ; description of, by Playfair, Drummond, 

Bayard Taylor, Hall, etc., 135 ; views from, 136. 
Fair hill, 232. 

Fairholt, F. W. , artist, on Mayo scenery, 399. 
Fairies, 244 ; Rock of Doon, 518 ; Knockfearna, 562. 
Fairy Lawn, home of Gerald Griffin, 556,559. 
Faithlegg hill, 534. 

Famous Persons and Places, by Willis, 363. 
Farrell, Thos., sculptor, 33S, 355, 376, 379. 
Farquhar, 546. 
Fastnet Rock, 464. 

Fata Morgana, on coast of Antrim, described, 171. 
■' Father Prout," see Rev. Francis Mahony. 
Faulkner, John, Swift's publisher, 350. 
Faughart, Bruce, slain at, 490. 
Feagh hill, 145. 
Fechin, St., founder of Fore abbey, 2SS. 

at Cong, 3S3. 

Feipo or Phepoe, Adam de, 249. 



628 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Feis Teararach, assembly of Tara, 261. 

Fenian Agitation, 134, 338. 

Fennel, an officer, betrays Limerick, 555. 

Ferbane, 471. 

Ferguson, M. C. , Irish Before the Conquest, 566. 

Sir Samuel, on Usneach, 2S9. 

Fermanagh, County of, 4S1. 
Fermoy, 406, 452. 

Ferns, royal residence, 402 ; abbey, 501, 507 ; castle de- 
stroyed, 508 ; legend of murders in, 50S. 
Ferriter, Pierce, put to the sword, 55. 
Ferry-Carrick, 507. 
Ferry-point, 522. 
Fethard bay, 497. 
Fethard, Wexford, 500. 
Fethard-Tip, 603, 611. 
Ffont, 180. 
Ffrench, iSo. 
Fiachal Phadrig, 386. 
Fingal, heroic self-sacrifice of, 490. 
Finglas, baron, advises the suppression of abbeys. 502. 
Finian, St., 17 ; founder of Clonard, 250. 

the leper at Swords, 303. 

Finlayson, canon, 344. 

Finn Bar, St., founder of Cork city, first bishop, 423, 434 ; 

hermitage, 460. 
Finola, princess, 386. 
Finvarra, fairy king, 244. 
Fionn, 134. 
Firbolg colony, 505. 
Fir-House, 379. 
Fitz-Eustace, viscount Baltinglass, leads the Irish at Glen- 

malure, 84. 
Fitzgerald, lord Edward, escaped from Leinster House, 

376 ; succored in Cork, 42S ; arrested, 323 ; tomb 

of, 362. 

Desmond, house of, 606. 

lord of Offaly, first Geraldine earl of Kildare, 367. 

lord Thomas ('' .Silken Thomas "), 312. 

Margaret (" the great countess of Ormond "), 539. 

Maurice, founded castle and famous abbey of Sligo, 

510. 
Fitzgeralds of Cloyne, 427. 

of Inchiquin, 427. 

■ founded religious houses in Youghal, 436 ; Collegiate 

church, 43S, 439. 
monuments of, in Cloyne, 4:5 ; in Youghal, 439; in 

Jerpoint, 542, etc. 
Fitzgibbon, lord, statue of, Limerick, 558. 
Fitz-Henry, Myler, 249. 
Fitzpatrick, 538. 

Wm. J., The Sham Squire, etc., 360. 

Fitz-Stephen, 402. 

Lynch, mayor or warden of Galway, iSo ; executed his 

own son Walter, 182 ; tragic story of, 1S2. 
Robert, leader of the first Anglo-Norman expedition, 

497- 
Fitz-Thomas, Gilbert, 249. 
John, earl of Kildare, founded abbeys at Adare, 560 

562. 



Fitzwilliam, earl of, his estate, 82 ; built Flannel Hall at 

Rathdrum. 82. 
Flanedy, John, Irish State Ttials, 334. 
Flann, poet and antiquary, 495 ; his writings, 496. 
Fleming, Richard and Thomas, 249. 

Thomas, tomb of, 439. 

Foaty island and park, 419. 

Foley, John Henry, sculptor, 355 ; works by, 359, 367, 376, 

430. 
Forbes, sir John, on Gap of Dunloe, 19 ; gives dimensions 

of Giant's Causeway, 162, 166 ; on Clifden and Ard- 

bear, 220 ; on advantages of water excursions from 

Cork, 416 ; passim, 150, 184, 206, 228, 4S2, 600, etc. 
Fore, remains at, 288 ; ancient name of, 2S9. 
Formorians, 244, 414, 481. 
Fort Camden, 405. 
Fort Carlisle, 409. 
Forth and Bargy, baronies of, 502 ; people and customs of, 

503, 504 ; tower-houses in, 504. 
Foster, Speaker, declines to yield the mace, 371. 
"Four Courts," Dublin, described, 356. 
"Four Masters," the annals of (see Annals), 10, 315, etc. 
Foxford, 390. 

Franciscan Friary, Kilkenny, 546. 
Eraser, James, Handbook for Ireland, referred to, 76, 83, 

100, 134, 204, 500, etc. 

Mr., Statistical Survey of Wexford, 500. 

Freeman's Joiirnal, Dublin, 335. 

French Refugees and Irish linen trade, 119. 

Fursey, St., his missions and visions, 235; Dean Milnian 

and Rev. J. O'Hanlon on, 235-6. 

Gallagher, sculptor, group by, 376. 

Gallerus oratory, 55. 

Galteemore, 551, 602, 604 ; cromlech, 616. 

Galway, county of, 177; extent and boundaries of, 177 
nature of surface, 1 78. 

Town, commercial relations with Spain, 180; old town 

like Spanish cities, iSo ; settled by the "Tribes," 
179 ; names of other settlers, 180 ; historical notice 
of. iSo, 183 ; surrender to Coote on conditions, 183; 
to Ginkle with military honors, 183 ; garrison joins 
general Lake in '98, 183 ; Claddagh, 1S4 ; modern 
buildings in, 1S4 ; education in, 184 ; character of 
youth and children attending college and model 
school, 185, 186 ; bridges, 1S6. 

bay of, 179, 1 86. 

earl of portrait, 379. 

Gandon, James, architect, 351, 359, 371. 

Gap of Dunloe, 15. 

Garland of Ilowth, 306. 

Garran point and tower, description of, 12S, 129 ; views 
from, 129. 

Garvagh hill, 440. 

Garry castle, 471. 

General Post Office, Dublin, described, 354. 

Generals, royalist, at battle of Arklovv, 107. 

Geneville (or Joinville), sir Geoffry de, lord justice, 254. 

Geological notices of environs of Belfast, 374. (See Bryce, 
passim,) 



GENERAL INDEX. 



629 



George II., Van Nost's statue of, 374. 

George III., Van Nost's statue of, 366 ; statue of in House 
of Lords, Dublin, 371. 

George IV. visit to Ireland, 331 ; Behnes' statue of, 376. 

Gerald, earl of Kildare, supports Simnel, 311. 

Geraldines, 562 ; traces of their power in Limerick, 560. 

Silken Thomas, 567. 

first earl of Kildare, 567 ; seat at Maynooth, 567. 

Gernons, de, 299. 

Giant's Causeway, 109 ; union with Scotland, 14S ; de- 
scribed, 156 ; first impressions of, 15S ; Great, 
Middle and Little Causeways, 15S ; number of pil- 
lars and their character, 159 ; Cowper, Drummond, 
Forbes, Bryce, and Kohl on, 156, 158, 163 ; dimen- 
sions, length, breadth and height of the several 
divisions, 162 ; concavity of upper surface, 163 ; 
extent of basalt formations, 164 ; error of comparing 
Fingal's Cave to, r66. 

Poem. (See Dr. W. H. Drummond.) 

Giants' granny, 160. 

organ, 155. 

pulpit, 150. 

Gibbons, Johnny, the outlaw, 226. 

Gilbert, J. L. , History of Dublin, etc., 312, 316, etc. 

Gill abbey, 435. 

lough, connected with the ocean, 510. 

Ginkle, general de, 183, 478. 

Giraldus Cambrensis, intra., i. ; accompanies prince John 
to Ireland, intro., i. ; on the natural beauties of the 
country, ii. ; on lough Neagh, iii. 

Gladstone, Wm. E., at Dublin, 341. 

Glancree barracks, 79 ; Catholic reformatory, 79. 

vale of, 78. • 

Glanismole, 294. 

Glanmire, 419. 

Glasnevin cemetery, Dublin, 131,380. 

Gleancoum, 439. 

Gleann-jia-Gleodh, 533. 

Glena, 35. 

Glenariff, 131. 

Glenarm, 127 ; construction of coast road at, 127 ; views 
from, 12S; description of, 12S; castle of, 12S. 

Glenart, 103. 

Glenca-r, valley of, 50. 

Glendahork, 396. 

Glendalough, 84 ; descriptions of, 85 ; solemn aspect of, 86 ; 
historical notice of, 86; e.Ktent and ruins, 87; the site 
of an ancient city, 87 ; ravaged by the Danes, 87, 
and English, 87 ; only ecclesiastical remains at, 87 ; 
description of , 87 to 92 ; Round Tower at, 8g ; the see 
united to Dublin, 87 ; an American v/riter on, 88. 

famous seminary at, 94. 

Connemara, 194. 

Glendaragh, 102. 
Glendine, 523. 

Glen of the Downs, 73 ; description of, 74. 

Glen of Dunran, 99 ; description of, 99, 100. 

Glen Errifl to Westport, 393 ; mountain scenery, 393. 

Glen Fee, 224. 

Glen Flesk, 50. 



Glengariff, 406 ; routes to, 461 ; Bartlett on, 468. 

" Glen of the Gods." (See Devil's Glen.) 

Glen Inagh, 201, 225. 

Glen of Kiltymon, 100. 

Glen of Knocknarea, 512. 

Glenmalure, distinct characteristics of above, and below 

Ballinacor, 83 ; beauties of the head of, 84 ; the 

fastness of Feagh MacHugh O'Byrne, 84 ; battle at, 

84, 103. 
Glenmoi-e, demesne, 95, 98. 
Glennamaddoo, 396. 
Glenshesk, 139. 
Glen Thomas, 396. 

Gobbins, basaltic cliff, 124 ; description of, 128. 
Godfred, king of Man, 597. 
Golden bridge, 605, 610. 
Golden legend, 5o. 
Golden spears, the, 64, 74. 
Golden Vale, the, 552 ; position and extent of, 603, 604 ; 

railway through, 604; ruins in, 605; "a county 

worth fighting for," 606, 610. 
Goldsmith, Oliver, his birthplace and its associations, 290, 

2gi ; Foley's statue of, 345, 366, 369. 
Gorey, 49S, 507. 

Gordon, Rev. Wm., historian, 107. 
Gort, 243; viscount, 243,367. 
Gortin, 536. 
Gougane Barra, 406 ; described, 459 ; St. Finn-Bar's 

hermitage, 460. 
Gough, lord, 243. 
Grace, defender of Athlone, 478. 

John, baron of Courtstown, 540. 

Oliver, abbot of Jerpoint, 540. 

family of, ruined by adherence to the Stuarts, 549. 

Grace's card, 549. 

country, 548. 

monuments to the, 538, 542. 

Gracehill Moravian settlement, 174. 
Grace-Staples cave, 141 

Grammar School, Kilkenny, famous pupils, 546. 
Granard, 290. 
Grand canal, fly-boat, 480 
Granny (Grandison) castle, 539. 
Grant, 534. 

Granua Aille (Grace 0'Malley)304. 

Gratlan, Henry, residence of, 72, 238, 323 ; Foley's statue 
of, 366 ; Chantrey's statue, 366. 

lady Laura, 367. 

Gray, John de, left in charge of Irish administration, by 

king John, 310. 
Graves, Dr., i88. 

Gray, sir John, prosecuted, 335 ; statue of, 355. 
Great Island, Cork, 412 ; Queenstown on, 412 ; described, 

412 ; early landmark of history, 414. 
Gregg, bishop, 433. 
Gregory of Scotland, 437 
Grenane castle ruins, 550. 
Grey abbey, 5S9, 591, 597, 591. 

Grey, lord Arthur, lord deputy of Ireland, 84 ; defeated 
by Feagh MacHugh, 84. 



630 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Grey, lord deputy, edict against paying Eric, 123. 

lord Leonard, deputy, entered Lecale and Ards against 

Savage, 598 ; tried, and loses his head, 598. 

earl de, lord lieutenant, 333. 

Grey Man's Path, the. 136. 

Greystones, 67. 

Grianan of Aileach, 518; described, 519; Legend of 

O'Neill's horsemen, 519. 
Grififin, Gerald, ballad on Kathleen and St. Kevin, 94, 191, 

302. 
Griffith, Mrs. W. D., account of moving bog, 234. 
Gros, Raymond le, 424, 505, 507 -.cruelly at Dundonolf, 533, 

548 ; his grave, 523. 

Robert le, 344. 

Guinness, sir Benjamin Lee, restorer of St. Patrick's Cathe- 
dral, Dublin, 241, 348 ; restores Cong, 383, 
3SS. 

Gurteen, 532. 

Guthrie, \Vm., his account of Dublin, 316, 327. 

Hagshead, 5S0. 

Half dome, Yosemite, 399. 

Haliburton, judge, on Killarney, 48. 

Hall, Mr. and Mrs. S. C, 12; on Fairhead, 135; on 
treacherous practices of English settlers, 508 ; on 
'■ Clan-Savage " and settlers in Ulster, 592 -.passim, 
40, 154, 204, 231, 416, 516. etc. 

Hamilton, family, 593. 

Rev. W., on the Antiquity of Ballycastle collieries, 

138, 139 ; on Pleaskin, l^l, passim, 146, 166, etc. 

Sir W. R., astronomer, 225. 

Hamilton's seal, view from, 152. 

Hiindhook foi- Travelers in Ireland (see Eraser, Ja>i.,passi»i). 

of Ireland {i^e. Walker, /aw/m). 

Handel, his Messiah first played in Dublin, 362. 
Headford, 243. 

Heathen temples at Kilmelchedor, 55. 

Helvick Head, 530. 

Hemans, Felicia, 378. 

Henry II. leaves for England, 505. 

v., hero of Agincourt, imprisoned in youth at Trim, 

254. 
Henry^ Mitchell, M. P., 226. 
Hen's castle, 231 ; legend of its origin, 231. 
Herbert, H. A., M. P., of Killarney, 11, 31. 
Heremon, 492. 
Hervey, T., architect, 596. 
Hieron Promoiiloriiim, 497. 
Hillsborough, 596. 
Hilltown, 590. 
History of the Viceroys of Ireland, etc., by J. T. Gilbert, 

Esq., 312. 
Hoare, sir R. C, on Killarney, 48, 152 ; on sculptures at 

Kilmallock, 564. 
Hodnett, 414. 

lord Philip, slain, 414. 

Hogan, John, sculptor, 366, 379, 3S0, 403, 435. 
Holden, Richard, linen trade, 120. 
HoUybrook, demesne, 73. 
Holm-Patrick, 594. 



Holt, Joseph a patriotic leader in '98, 79. 

Holy Cross abbey, 606, 613, 614, 615. 

Home Rule party, 339 ; league, 340. 

Hook peninsula, 497. 

Hope, James, at battle of Antrim in 'gS, 176. 

Here abbey, 606, 614. 

Horseshoe harbor, 150. 

Hose, or Hussey, Hugh de. 249. 

Hospital, 552. 

House of Rocks, 468. 

Howth, hill of, 294 ; described, 296 ; abbey and tombs, 29S ; 

earl of, 296 ; castle of, 29S, 303 : visit, of Granua 

Aille to, 304. 

Danes fled to, after battle of Clonlarf, 30S. 

village of, 303, 380. 

Hughes i.ap Hugh), 592. 

Humbert, arrival of French with, 1S3. 

Hungry mountains, 467, 470. 

Hy-Brasail, 190 ; Griffin's lines on, igi. 

Hy-Cabanagh, 402. 

Hy-Carthin, 538. 

Hy-Drone, 402. 

Hy-Kinsellagh, 498.- 

Hy-Nialls, the, 250. 

Harbors, Bays, principal ; 

Ardglass, 589. 

Ballycastle, 137. 

Ballynakcle, 224. 

Baltimore, 406, 464. 

Bannow bay, 499, 500. 

Bangor, 589. 

Bantry, 400, 465. 

Berehaven, 467. " 

Bernading bay, 223. 

Bertraghboy bay, 206. 210, 215. 

Black Sea harbor, 396. 

Carrickfergus, no. 

Church bay (Uathlin), 146. 

Clew bay, 391, 394, 395. 

Cloghy, 589. 

Clonakilty, 406. 

Cork harbor. 406. 

Courtmacksherry, 406. 

Cushendun, 133. 

Dundrum, 5S9. 599. 

Dunmanus, 406, 465. 

Donegal bay, 515. 

Fethard bay (Wexford). 497. 

Galway, 179, 1S6. 

Glendore, 406. 

Gweebarra, 514. 

Kenmare. 465. 

. Killery harbor, 228, 230. 

Killeries, 17S, 226, 3S2, 393. 

Killough, 5S9. 

Kingstown, 276. 

Kinsale, 406. 

Malahide Bay, 293. 

Millin, 589. 

Mill-quarter, 589. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



631 



Harbors, Bays, principal. — Continued : 

■ Murtaugh, 133. 

Quintin, 589. 

Roaring Water Bay, 462. 

Rosscarbery, 406. 

Roundstone, 215, 

Sheephaven, 514. 

Waterford, 533. 

Wexford Harbor, 4gg. 

Youghal, 406. 

Harland and Wolff, Belfast shipbuilders, 113. 

Harold's Cross, 326. 

Harpur, 538. 

Harris, 546. 

Harvey, Beauchamp Bagnal, executed, 504. 

Hazelwood, demesne, 511. 

lar-Connaught, 178. 

Ibar, St., 188. 

Iinbhar Colpa, 492. 

Inchageela, 459. 

Inchangoil, ancient remains on, 240. 

Inchiquin Castle, 584, 587. 

earl of, takes Cashel cathedral, and commits fearful 

massacre, 614. 

Inchmore Castle, 548. 

Industrial Exhibition, 337; projected by Wm. Dargan,338. 

Inglis, H. D., on lough Erne, intra. III. ; on Black 
valley, 22 ; on the wilds of Kerry in 1834, 51 ; on 
Galway, iSo ; on Clifden, 219 ; on Kylemore lough 
and pass, 226 ; on the BlackWater, 522 ; passim, 
194, 208, 215, 218, 228, 600, etc. 

Iniscaltra, Round Tower, and rains on, 587. 

Inishman, forts on, 188. 

Inishmore, 187 ; visited by St. Ibar, St. Inda, 1S8. 

Inishowen, peninsula of, 518. 

Inistioge, 537, 550. 

Iniscarra, 439. 

Inniscattery, 587 ; Round Tower and ruins on, 58S, 

Innis Courcey, ruins, 591. 

Innisfallen Island, 31 ; descriptions and history of, 31 ; 
annals of, 32 ; Moore's poem on, 34 ; supernatural 
appearances at, 40. 

Innisherkin abbey, 465. 

Innismurry, ruins on, 512. 

Insula Sancta Clara, Cape Clear, 464. 

Introduction, i. 

"Interlacken of Ireland," 481. 

Inver, 514. 

Inver Dea, 66. 

Ireland, early writers on, intra., i. ; extent of, vii. ; coast 
of, vii. ; a land of ruins, viii., x. 

division Of, in 2d century, 178. Formorian colony, 

244 ; Celto-Scythian colony Nemedians, 247 ; ear- 
liest population, 247 ; first-cultivated, 247. 

earliest assemblages of princes, bards, druids, brehons, 

etc., at Tara, 247 ; Danish and Norse invaders, 
247 ; Tuat'nal Teachtmar establishes Meath, 247 ; 
earliest kings in Meath, 247. 

K.ing Aldfrid's Itinerary of Ireland in 7th century. 



248 ; royal palaces in Meath 24S ; Henry II. confers 

lands, 249 ; baronies founded, 249 ; schools of 

learning, 250 ; partition of, 307. 
Ireland's Eye, Round Tower and ruins on, 306. 
Ireland, Its Scenery, Chai-actcr, etc., by Mr. and Mrs. S. C. 

Hall (see Hall, passim). 
Ireton, 183 ; besieged Limerick, 555. 
Irish Academy, Royal, incorporated, 322. 
Irish bishops, qualifications for, 23S. 
Irish Chief, habits and usages of, 192. 
Irish confederation, 335. 

in Cork, 429. 

I>ish Felon, journal, 337, 374. 
" Irish Memphis," the, 276. 

Irish military power, extinction of, in Ireland, 246. 
Irish National Gallery, opened by earl of Carlisle, 338. 
Irishtown, Kilkenny, 542. 
Iiish Tribune, journal, 337, 374. 
Isidore, iniro. , i . 
Island castle, 531. 

Island Magee, description of, 126 ; granted on lease to 
Savage, 126; ancient rent of, 126: massacre at, 126. 
Islands, Isles, etc., notable. 

Achill, 391. 

Arran, 186. 

Bannocks, 204. 

Bere, 467. 

Boa Island, 482. 

Clare, 392. 394 395. 

Cape Clear, 464. 

Church Island, 511. 

■ D.ilkey, 295. 

Devenish, 483. 

Haulbowline, 410. 

Inishman iSS. 

Inishmore, lough Erne, 482. 

in lough Corrib, 240. 

in lough Derg (Clare), 5S7. 

in lough Erne, 482. 

Innisboffin, 177, 392, 394, 395. 

Innisfallen, 31. 

Innisherkin, 464. 

Innismurry, 512. 

Innisshark, 177-394. 

Innisturk. 392, 394, 395. 

Ireland's Eye, 295. 

Lambay, 295. 

Rathlin, 146. 

Rocky Island, 410. 

Saltee, 499. 

Spike Island, 450. 

Station Island, lough Derg, 517. 

Whiddy, 467 

Iveagh, lord, holds Carrickfergus for James II., 123. 

Jackson, Rev. Wm, , buried, 300. 

Jail Journal, Mitchel's, 411. 

James II. arrives in Cork and attends mass. 428 ; lands at 

Kinsale with the French, 445; headquarters before 

the Boyne, 491-492. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Jarlath, St. founder of Tuam, 244. 

Jeffreys, sir James, 456. 

Jerpoint Abbey, 540 ; monument in, 541. 

Jesuit Fathers, 569. 

Jigginstown House, extensive unfinished structure, 570. 

Jocelyn, 307. 

John, 253 ; lord of Ireland arrives, 310 ; castle of Trim, 
251 ; resides at Leixlip Castle, 572 ; built castle 
and bridge of Limerick, 554 ; puts up castles at 
Ardfinnan and Tipperary, 605. 

Johnson, Dr. James, Tour in Ireland, 4S2. 

Dr. Sam., on Lucas, 360 ; his merits first recognized 

by Dublin University. 367. 
Johnston, Charles, author, 559. 

Francis, architect, 354. 

Hester, Swift's " Stella," 350. 

Johnstown Castle, 504. 

John the Baptist, St., hospital of (Meath) 258. 
Jones, Michael, governor of Dublin, 313. 

■ ■ Paul, his cruise and capture of the Drake, 124. 

Journey Throughout Ireland, etc. (see \n^\-i passim). 
Joyce, Dr. R. D. , quoted, 3S. 

P. \^., intra. , x. 

Joyce's country, 17S, 229, 232. 
Joyes or Joyce, 180. 

Thomas, 229-230. 

Julianstown, English defeat at, 272. 

Kane, sir Robert, president Queen's College, Cork, 435. 

Ready, 578. 

Keane, sir Richard, 524. 

Kearnes, patriot priest in '98, 250. 

Kearney, Kate, cottage, iS. 

Keating, Geoffrey, grave of, 60S. 

Keim-an-eigh, pass of, 459 ; M. Doheny on, 460. 

Kells, (Kilkenny), 539 ; ruins at, 540. 

(Meath), its history, 266; famous " book of," 267 ; 

Round Tower and cross, 268. 
Kelly's lough, 102. 
Kenbane, 139, 140. 
Kenmare, town of, 6 ; scenery of, 6 ; road to, 6, 7. 

river, 51. 

Kermna, early Milesian king, 143. 

Kerry, county of, 5 ; wilds of, in 1S34, 51. 

knights of, 52 

Kevin, St., notice of, 86 ; his tomb, 88 ; his kitchen a 
remarkable structure, 90 ; his cell, 91 ; Monastieon 
Bibernicum on, 94 ; legends of his bed, 92 ; danger 
of visiting it, 92 ; legend of Kathleen, 93 ; poems 
on, by Griffin and Moore, 94. 

Kiaran, St., founder of Clonmacnoise, 472. 

Kibline castle ruins, 549. 

Kickham, Chas. J., 608. 

Kienem, St. founded, Duleek church, 282. 

Kilbarrack ruins, 306. 

Kilcarn, font, 265. 

Kilcolman castle, Spenser's residence, 455. 

Kilcomney hill, 402. 

Kilcomodon hill, where the brunt of Aughrim fight took 
place, 478. 



Kilcrea abbey and castle, 440; described, 441; wall of 

bones at, built by a strange woman, 441. 
Kilcuanna, 236. 
KiLDARE, county of, 565. 

historical associations and antiquities of, 563 ; name 

and origin, 566 ; cathedral, 566 ; Round Tower, 
566 ; Fire house, 567 ; in '98, 572. 

earl of, built castle and abbey, 570 ; Gerald, earl of, 

(1498), burns Cashel cathedral, 613; appointed 

viceroy, 613. 
Kilfinnan, 552. 
Kilfrush, 552. 
Kilkee, 580. 
Kilkeel, 590, 600. 
Kilkenny, county of, its character, boundaries and history, 

537; marble and coal, 538; notable families, 538; 

climate of. 550. 

city, appearance and history, 542; parliaments, 542, 

543 ; statute of. adopted, 543 ; walled, 543 ; plun- 
dered by earl of Desmond, 543 ; seized by Mount- 
garret, became headquarters of the Catholic Con- 
federation, 543 ; invested by Cromwell, 544. 

castle, 544, 545. 

Grammar School ("College of Kilkenny"), founded, 

546- 
Killaghie, old church of, 43. 
Killala, 400. 

Killaloe, royal residence, ancient buildings at, 586. 
Killannin, 243. 
Killany, 236. 
Killard Point, 589. 
Killamey, road to, 7 ; town of, cathedral and buildings at, 

17 ; circuit of the lakes, 17 ; Upper Lake, 27 ; Long 

Range at, 27 ; legends of, 39, 40 ; O'Donaghues' 

mistress, 42. 

Scenery, \V. S. Balch on, 45 ; compared with Lake 

George, 47 ; Willis on, 47 ; Hoare on, 48; Judge 

Haliburton on, 48 ; Macaulay on, 49 ; Wakefield 

on, 50. 
Killclief Castle, 59?, 599. 
Killeagh. 436. 
Killen, John B., 510. 
KiUenaule, 548, 605 ; coal district, 603. 
Killeries, 178, 226, 382, 393. 
KiUfursa church, 235, 236. 
Killiney, 294 ; obelisk, 380. 
Killmacrenan, 517. 
Killmallock, 552, 559.560; the Balbec of Ireland, 562; capital 

of Desmond's dominions, 563. 
Killursa, 235. 

parish, 243. 

Kilmacduagh Round Tower and ruins, 242. 

Kilmagany, 539. 

Kilmainham, 363 ; royal hospital, 318 ; historical portraits 

in, 379- 
Kilmelchedor, heathen temples at, 55. 
Kilmore, 465. 
Kilpeacan, 553. 

Kilree Round Tower and caves, 540. 
Kilronan, 478. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



633 



Kilroot church, where Swift first officiated, 124. 

Kilrush, 5S7. 

Kilsharvan church, 275. 

Kiltymon, glen of, 100. 

Kimboath founds the palace, Eaitihain Macha. 

Kincora, palace of Brian Boru, 586. 

Kin-Corr castle, 533. 

Kinel-Eoghain, 535. 

King John's castle. Limerick, history and sieges of, 555. 

Kings County, 471. 

Kingstown Harbor, 2g6, 331, 3S0. 

Kinnegad, 286. 

Kinsale, 40S; historical notice of, 444,445; disaster to Irish 

and Spanish allies at, 445 ; surrender to Cromwell, 

445- 
Kippure mountains, intra., vi., 63. 
Kirke, sculptor, 379. 
Kirwan, 180. 

Richard, the chemist, 23S. 

Walter Blake, dean, Grattan on, 23S. 

Knights of St. Patrick, order of, instituted, 322, 350. 
Knockbreda church ruins, 590, 596. 
Knockeyan,287. 

Knockfearna, 562. 

Knockgraffon, rath, 610. 

Knockmagh, view from, 244. 390. 

Knockmeledown mountains, 523; summits of, 52S. 

Knockminaune, 271. 

Knockmoy, tomb of Cathal Crovdearg O'Conor, 238 ; curious 

ancient fresco in, 239; opinions of Petrie. Ledwich, 

Button and O'Brien on, 239. 
Knockshegowna, 200. 
Knowth, mound of, 279. 
Kohl, J. G. , on Black valley, 23; on Giant's Causeway, 163, 

164 ; on Galway, iSo. 
Kylemore, 207 ; pass and lough, 224. 

Lacy, Michael, covers the retreat at Scullagh gap, 402. 
Lacy, Hugh de, left in charge by Henry II., 310; builds 

castles in Carlow, 403. (?>ee passim, 249, 267, 492 . 

slain, 250.) 

Robert de, 249. 

■ Walter de, 249, 288. 

Lacys, de, drive out de Courcy, and obtain possession of 

Ulster, 591; passim, 256, 208, etc. 
Labig yennuddah, Edward's bed, on Cromwell hill, 616. 
Lady's Island (sea) lake, 499. 
Lagan, source of, 590, 596. 
Lake, royalist general, 183. 
Lakes and Loughs, principal: intra., iii., iv. 

Allen, 487, 520. 

Allua, 460. 

Arderry, 194. 

Arran, 510. 

Auger, 21. 

Ballanahinch, 194. 

Ballycuirke, 192. 

Belfast Lough, no. 

Black, 19. 

Bofin, 194. 



Lakes and Loughs, principal. — Continued : 

Bray, upper and lower, 78. 

Broad, 98. 

Bunny, 579, 

Caolin, 136. 

Carra (Keriy), 50. 

Carra, 3S2, 383, 390. 

Carrawmore, 3S2. 

in Clare, 519. 

in the Commeragh mountains, 531. 

Conn, 390. 

Corrib, 191, 230. 

Coumshinaun, 531. 

Crossa, 136. 

Cullaun, 579. 

CuUen, 383. 

Cull in, 390. 

Cummeen, Thomeen, 19. 

Dan, 75, 77. 

Dearg (Shannon), 243. 

Derg, 177. 

Derivaragh, 286. 

Derryclare, 194, 196. 

Doo, 393, 579. 

Dunlewy, 514. 

Ennel, or Belvidere, 286. 

Erne, 480, 487. 

— ■ — Esk, 514. 
Fee, 204, 227. 

Feeagh, 398. 

in Fermanagh, 481. 

Fin (Clare), 579. 

Finn, 393, 514. 

Furnace, 398. 

in Galway (300), 178. 

Gara, 477, 487, 510. 

Garrowin, or Glendalough, Connemara, 202. 

Gill, 510, 511. 

Glencar, 510. 

Glendalough (Wicklow), 84 

Graney, 579. 

of the Gray Phantom, 531. 

Gougane Barra, 406, 459. 

Inagh, 194, ig6. 

Ine, 462. 

Inchicronan, 579. 

Inchiquin, 579, 587. 

Iron, or Hiern, 2S6. 

Kelly's, 102. 

Key, 477, 4S7. 

Killarney, lower, middle and upper lakes, described, 

23, 24, 30, 31, etc. 

Kylemore, 201, 224. 

Lady's Island, 499. 

Larne, 127. 

Lene. (See Killarney.) 

Lein (Westmeath), 286, 288. 

Lochan-bric-Dearg, 23. 

Looscanagh, 7. 

Luggelaw, or Tay, 75. 



634 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Lakes and Loughs, principal. — Continued : 
Mackanagh, 579. 

m Magillicuddy's Reeks, 42. 

Mask, 230, 382, 383, 

Moume, 514, 

Muck Lesser, 227. 

Nacung, 514. 

Nakeeroge, 399. 

Naneevin, 192. 

Oakport. 4S7. 

O'Grady, 579. 

Oorid, 194. 

Outra, 243. 

Owel, 286, 287. 

■ Pallacappul, 224. 

Ramor,266. 

Ree, 286, 290. 

Rosroe, 579. 

Ross, 192. 

Shindella, 194. 

Strangford, 5S9. 

Tadun, 579. 

in Westmeath, small loughs, 286. 

Lalor, James Fenton, 337. 

Lambay Island, 306. 

Land League, 510. 

Lanesborough, 2S6. 

Lanigan, Dr., error of, 475 ; on the age of St. Patrick, 

594- 
" Lantern of Ireland," 546. 
Lanyon, Chas., surveyor and architect, 115. 
Laoghaire, king, 252, 263, holds festival at Tara, when 

St. Patrick lights the Paschal fire, 264 ; warned by 

the Druids, 264. 
Laracor, 269, 270. 
Laragh, central point for Wicklow tourist, 79 ; glens and 

roads which unite at, 80, 81, 84, 95. 
Larcom, sir Thomas, 260. 
Larne, 124, 127. 
La Touche, 74, 76. 
Laune, river, iS. 

Lauzun, count, lands with the French at Kinsale. 445. 
Lawless, 180. 
Layd, church of, 134. 
" Leaps of Ossian's Greyhounds," 498. 
Lecale within the pale, 592, 594. 

Ledred, bishop, embellished St. Canice's cathedral, 545. 
Ledwich, Dr., 239 ; on legend of St. Senanus, 588. 
Lee, river, course of, 408 ; beauty of from Queenstown to 

Cork, 415 ; compared to the Bosphorus, Hall and 

Forbes on, 416 ; expands into lough Mahon, 418 ; 

inundation of, 432; outlet from Cork, 439; valley 

of, 440. 459- 
Leenane, 229, 390, 393. 
Leighlin Bridge, 403. 
Leigmonshena (Shannon Pot), 520. 
Leitrim, county of, 487 ; character and extent, 487. 

village, 4S7. 

Leix, principality of, 570. 

Leixslip, 379 ; castle, 572 ; Salmon Leap, 294. 



Leslie, sir John, concessions for accommodation of lough 
Dearg pilgrims, 517. 

Leth Conn, 178. 

Leth Mogha, 178. 

Letterbrecan, ascent of, 203 ; view from, 204. 

Letterfrack, 222 ; school at, founded by Mr. Ellis, 223. 

Letterkenny, 517. 

Lever, Charles, 363 ; residence of, 379. 

Lewis, Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, 522. 592, 598, 
etc. 

Lia Fail, Stone of Destiny, 263, 265. 

Liber Hymnoruin , yjo. 

Liffey, rise of, 78 ; inundation of, 313; bridges over, 314, 
330, 331 ; embanked, 31S ; quays, 326 ; docks, 327 ; 
between Kildare and Dublm, 572 ; suburban places 
on, 379. 

Lifford, 514. 

Limenueh. St. Patrick's sister, 242. 

Limerick, county, 551 ; its heroic memories and attrac- 
tions, 551 ; general features, 551, 552. 

city of, historical notice of, 554 ; its mayoralty older 

than that of London, 554: seat of royalty trans- 
ferred to, from Cashel, 554 ; conflicts with the 
Anglo-Normans, 554 ; castle and bridge built, 554 ; 
walled and fortified, 554; during the Williamif: 
war, 555 ; great defense of, 555, 556 ; courage of 
the women, 557 ; capitulation, 55S ; treaty, 558 ; 
new town, 558; bridges, bells, etc., 558; suburbs 
of, 559. 

earl of, 560. 

Linen manufacture in Ireland, 119 ; development of, 120. 

Hall, Dublin, 342. 

Lion's Head Rock, 585. 

L'lrlande, Sociale, Politique et Nelis^ieuse, G. de Beaumont, 

quoted, intro., xii. 
Lisaughter hill, view from, 195. 
Lisbum, 176, 596 ; Jeremy Taylor buried in, 176. 
Liscanor, 5S0. 

Lisheen-ard, artificial cave, described, 390. 
Lismore Castle, 408, 523, 528, 529. 
Lissoy, Goldsmith's " Deserted Village," 291. 
Lochlannabh (Scandinavians), 424. 
Lockhart, J. Gibson, 450. 
Logan stone at Killarney, 23. 

at Brown's Bay, 126. 

Loman, St., first Bishop of Trim, 252. 

London, sea-coal prohibited in, 139. 

Londonderry, county of, 573 ; character of surface, 576 ; 

its rivers, "slacks" and mountains, 576; basaltic 

promontories, 578. 
London Society (journal), on trout fishing, 214. 
Longfields, tombs of, 415. 

Longfellow, H. W., on voyages of St. Brendan, 60. 
Longford, county of, 290 ; chief interest of, 290. 

town, 290. 

Loop Head, 579. 

Lords— Lieutenant, Deputy, Justices. (See Viceroys). 

Loretto convent, Rathfarnham, branch of, at Gort, 243. 

Lough Derg, pilgrimage, 517. 

Lough Gur, 55S, 559 ; legends of, 562. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



63s 



Loughill, 551. 
Loughrea, 243. 
Louth, county of, 4S9 ; great historical interest of, 489 ; 

topographical features, 489. 
Lover, Samuel, monument to, 350. 
Lover's Leap, the (Dargle), 71 
Luby, Thos. Clarke, 175. 
Lucan, 294, 379. 
Lucas, Dr. Chas., 320 ; grave of, 360 ; Dr. Johnson on, 360 ; 

Smith's statue of, 35S, 366. 
Ludlow, parliamentarian general, 37 ; memoirs quoted, 38. 
Luganure lead mines, 80. 
Luggelaw, or lough Tay, 75 ; description of, 75. 

waterfall, 76. 

Lugnaedon, St. Patrick's nephew, his monument, 242. 

Lugnaquilla, ascent of, 102 ; view from, 102. 

Lugs, of mountains, 396. 

Lurgan, 120, 476. 

Lurgethan, 132. 

Lusk, Round Tower, 302 ; synod held by St. Adamnan in 

ancient abbey, 303. 
Lying-in Hospital, Dublin, 355. 
Lynch, 180, 186. 

■ James, abbot of Cong, 386. 

Walter, mayor of Galway, 238. 

Maam, a center for tourists, 194. 

Maam Turk, 226. 

Macaulay, T. B., on the beauties of Killamey, 49. 

MacAuIafle, Sitric, king of Dublin, 344. . 

MacCartan, 592. 

MacCarthy. Cormac, king and archbishop, founds Cormac's 

Chapel at Cashel, 612. 

Cormac, the Strong, built Blarney Castle, 450. 

Denis Florence, his poem on Derrynane, 52 ; Alice 

and Una, a tale of Keim-an-eigh, 461 ; ballad of 

the " Bell-Founder," 558 ; declared Poet Laureate 

of Ireland, 340. 
Dermot, prince, Danish tribute, 423 ; pays homage to 

Henry II., 424 ; renounces allegiance and besieges 

Cork, 424 ; slain, 426. 

Donald, takes Cork, 426. 

Donagh, lord Muskerry, defends Ross castle, 37. 

of Desmond, drives the invaders from Limerick, 554. 

MacCarthys, founded Muckross, 10. 

of Muskerry, 427. 

MacCarvill, archbishop, founds Hore abbey, 614. 

MacCoghlan, 471. 

Macculind, St., of Lusk, 302. 

MacCumhal, Finn, 162, 163. 

MacDonneUs, earls of Antrim, 128. 

MacDonnell, 1,32, 168 ; treacherously seizes Dunluce, 170. 

MacDunlevy, 592. 

MacEUigot, Roger, governor of Cork, 428. 

MacGennis, 592. 

MacGeoghegan, abbe, 598. 

MacGilmore, 592. 

MacGregor, Scottish clan largely emigrated to Ulster, name 

changed, 592. 
MacGuire, 4S1. 



MacHale, John, archbishop of Tuam, 244 ; statue of, 2\^. 

Mai'Jiarl Casil, 605. 

Mackay, Dr., botanist, on the plants and flowers of Conne- 
mara, 208. 

Mackey (Lomasney), captain Wm., captured in Cork, 430. 

MacKinnons of Skye, name changed in Ulster, 592. 

MacLiag, chief bard of Brian Boru, 586. 

MacLoughlin, Donnel, destroys Kincora, 519. 

MacMahon, 488. 

MacMahons, rise to importance in Thomond, 5S2. 

MacMurragh, Dermod, king of Leinster, 30S ; his first 
allies arrive at Bag-an-Bun, 497 ; treaty with the in- 
vaders, 506 ; concealed in Ferns abbey, 508. 

Macnaghten, 16S. 

MacNamara, 5S2. 

Con., built Quin Abbey, 587. 

MacNeill, sir John, engineer, 494. 

MacNevin, Thomas, Hist. Volunteers, 320, 321 ; Confisca- 
tion of Ulster, 458, 576. 

MacQuillan, 168. 

Macroom, 439, 443. 

MacToole, king, cemetery in Glendalough, 91. 

MacWilliam, Eighter, 179. 

Oughter, 179. 

Madden, Dr. R. R., 362. 

Magazine, Ditblin Saturday, quoted, 45. 

Magdalen Church, Drogheda, 492, 493. 

Magh Breagh, 248. 

Magh-inis, St. Patrick lands at, 594. 

Maghera Round Tower, 591. 

Magillicuddy's Reeks, 38 ; ascent of Carran Tual, 42 
lakes in, 43. 

Magilligan, 576. 

Magnus, Danish leader, slain, 490. 

Magrath, Myler, apostate bishop, 515 ; his castle, 518 ; 
archbishop of Cashel, his tomb, 614. 

Maguire, 4S4. 

John Francis, mayor of Cork, 430. 

Mahon, Dean, retreat in Connemara, 202. 

Mahony, Rev. Francis {Father Protti), intro., v., 41S ; 
"Bells of Shandon," 435; definition of "blar- 
ney," 450. 

Maidens, the, 127. 

Malachy III., bishop, endows Downpatrick abbey, 595. 

Malahide, 294, 299. 

castle, 299 ; interior, 300 ; portraits in, 300. 

• abbey, tomb of Maud Plunkett, 302. 

bay, 293. 

Malbay, 580. 

Malchus, bishop of Glendalough, 85. 

Malin head, 519. 

Mallow, 409, 452 ; its waters, 452. 

Malton, James, artist, on the old Parliament House, 370. 

Mandevilles, 122. 

Mandeville, sir Thos., killed defending Carrickfergus, 
122. 

Mangan, James Clarence, 3S0. 

Mangerton, ascent of, 43 ; view from, 45. 

Mannan Mac Lir, 232 . 

Manieeny, 57S. 



6.:i6 



GENERAL INDEX. 



MS. inateiials of ancient Irish Jiistoiy. (See O'Curry, 

passim, ) 
Marble, Kilkenny noted for, 546. 
Mardyke, the, Cork, 431. 

Maritime Ports of Ireland. (See Marniion, passim.) 
Market Hill, 476. 

Marks, Jenico, mayor of Dublin, 311. 
Marlborough, earl of, attacks Cork, 42S. 
Marmion, Anthony, Hist. Maritime Ports, iii, 1S6, etc. 
Martin, 180. 

of Connemara, 195, 202, 2io. 21S ; feud with O'Fla- 

herty, 210; hospitality and misfortunes, 211; 
Moore on, 211 ; Thackeray's visit to, 211. 

• John, arrested, 336, 337 ; death and burial, 601. 

Martineau, Harriet, description of Connemara, ^95. 

Maryborough, 479. 

Mar}', queen, portrait, 379. 

Mask, lough, 232. 

Massarene, lord, 374. 

park, 174. 

Mass Rock, the, 560, 562. 

Masterson, sir Thomas, constable of Ferns, 50S. 
Mathew. Father, Foley's statue of, Cork, 420 ; unvailing, 
430; birthplace of, 614. 

cemetery, Cork, monument by Hogan in, 435. 

tower, 419. 

Maumont, French general at Derry, slain, 57S 

Maurice, prince, arrives at Kinsale, 445. 

Maxwell on Mayo scenery, 391. 

Maynooth, 567 ; ancient seat of the Geraldines, 568 : 

Royal College of St. Patrick at, 56S ; grants to, 

568 ; Dunboyne establishment, 569. 

College, Dr. Russell, president, 502. 

Mayo, county of, 3S1; character of its scenery, 382; northern 
coast, 3S2. 

earl of, seat, 272. 

lord, monument to, 350. 

McAllister's castle, (Kenbane), 140. 
McArt's fort, 1 14. 

McCracken, Henry Joy, leads United Irishmen at Antrim, 
176. 

McGee, Alexander, dean Swift's servant, tablet to, 350. 

McMahon, relieves Charlemont fort, but is refused admis- 
sion, 476. 

McManus, Terence Bellew, 3S0, 

McMurrough, Donald Art, escape of, 363. 

McQuillan, 144. 

Meagher, Thomas Francis, speeches 1S4S; arrested, 336, 
377 ; approved by citizens of Cork, 429 ; tried in 
Clonmel, 607, passim^ 534, 569. 

Meany, Stephen Joseph, national publicist, thrice arrested, 
584- 

Meath, county of, 245 ; scenery of. 245 ; seat of the an- 
cient supreme monarchy, 245 ; established as mesnal 
land for the supreme monarchy, 247 ; its name, 
248 ; its plains first cultivated, 247 ; charter of to 
Hugh de Lacy, 249 ; divided into Westmeath, 
King's county and Longford, 249 ; numerous cills 
or cells in, 275. 

Meeting of Glens, 106. 



Meeting of the Waters, 103 ; description of, 104 ; Moore's 

poem on, 104 ; the second, 106. 
Mellifont abbey, 494. 

St. Bernard's chapel, 495. 

baptistery, 495. 

Memorandums of a Tour of Ireland, by sir Jolm Forbes 

(see forhes passim). 
Mercer, Mrs. Mary, founds Mercer hospital, 318. 
Messina, straits of, optical illusions in, 172. 
■' Metal Man," the, 531. 
Methodist chapel, Armagh, 475. 
Milesius, 492. 
Milford, 404. 
Military roads, 79-83. 
Milliken, R. A., author cf the " Groves of Blarney." grave 

of, 419. 
Millstreet, 406, 459. 
Milltown, 379. 
Millvale, 532. 
Milman, dean, 235. 
Mints, Clonmines, 500 ; Limerick. 534 ; Trim, 255 ; Wa- 

terford, 534. 
Missett, William de, 249. 
Mitchel, John, approved by citizens of Cork, 429 ; arrested, 

336 ; Hist. Ireland, 336 ; Last Conquest of Ireland 

(Perhaps), 337 ; interred in Newry and tomb of, 596- 

601 ; pulpit from which his father preached, 597. 
Mitchelstown Caves, 610 ; description of, 615, 616. 
Moher Cliffs, 5S0, 588. 
Molaisse, St., 4S5. 
MoUna abbey, 523. 
Molock, temple of the golden, 55, 
Molyneux, sir T., on New Grange, 279. 
MoNAGHAN, county of, 4S8 ; general surface, 488. 
Monaniny castle, 452. 
Monasterboice, 494 ; antiquities. Round Tower, churches, 

crosses at, 496. 
Monasterevan, 570 ; 

Monasticon Ilibernicuin on St. Kevin, 94. 
Monea castle, 4S3. 
Monks of Kilcrea, quoted, 12, 
Monks, tomb of, at Muckross, 15. 
Monkstown castle, economical mode of building, 418, 
Monteagle. lord, statue of, Limerick, 558. 
Montgomery, family, 593. 

of the Ards, 123. 

lord, seizes Dublin castle. 313 

general Richard, birthplace, 514. 

Montmorency, Harvey de, quarrels with Strongbow and 

founds Dunbrody, 501. 

Moore abbey, 570, 

Moore, Thomas, enters Trinity college, his schoolmaster, 
368, 374 ; birthplace, 375 ; the legend of lough 
Neagh, intra., HI., 175 ; poem on Innisfallen, 34, 
on " O'Donoghue's mistress," 42 ; on St. Kevin. 94; 
on Mrs. Tighe, 99 ; on Dick Martin, 211 ; his 
library and harp, 378 ; passim. 259, 409, etc. 

Moravian settlement, 174. 

Morgan, lady, iS, 363 ; portrait of, 376. 

Morison, Fynes, 4S8. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



637 



Mornington, earl of, his musical compositions, 270. 
Morris, a persecutor, 442. 
Mortimer, 267. 

Edward, earl of Marcli, lord lieutenant, 254. 426. 

Roger de, 254. 

lord Roger, justiciary, takes counsel at Killtenny, 543. 

Mosse, Dr. Bartholomew, founder of Lying-in Hospital, 

Dublin, 355. 
Mound of the Hostages, Tara. 263. 
Mountains, Hills and notable Elevations : 

Aghla, 514. 

Atherry, Peak of, 195. 

Ballingarry hills, 552. 

Ballyhoura, 407. 

Ban duff, 603. 

Barnesmore, 514. 

Ben-bawn, 20S, 224. 

Benbraddagh, 57S. 

Benbulben, 510. 

Bencor, 20S. 

BencuUaghduff, 208, 224. 

Bendowglass, 207. 

Benevenagh, 576, 578. 

Bengorm, 398. 

Bengower, 208, 

Ben Lettery, 2c8. 

Bennebola, 178. 194. 

Ben-scalp diva, 200. 

Bessie Bell, 536. 

Binbane range, 514. 

Blackstairs, 401, 404, 498, 507. 

Blackwater, 407. 

Bluestack, 514. 

Bogra, 459. 

Brandon, 404. 

Braulieve, 487. 

Brockagh, So, 84. 

Buckoogh, 39S. 

Caherbarna, 459, 

Carlingford, 491. 

Carntogher, 576. 

Carran Tual, 21. 

Cashel, head of, 195, 204. 

Claughan-ard, 220. 

Comadery, 84. 

Commeragh, 522, 602. 

Coolnacartan, 195. 

Cove Cork, 406, 407, 40S. 

Croaghconnellagh, 515. 

Croaghgorm (Bluestack), 514. 

Croagh Patrick, 3S2. 

Croghanmoira, S3. 

Cromaglan, 38. 

Curlew, 477, 510. 

Derrybawn, 86. 

Derryclare, 195, 20S. 

Derrycunnihy hills, 24. 

Derryiiasagart, 443. 

Derryveagh range, 514. 

Devil's Bit, 602, 604. 



Mountains, Hills and notable Y.\ft\'&Wow%.~Coiitinned : 

Diamond Mountain, Lelterfrack. 222, 223. 

Divis, 114. 

Donald's hill. 576, 578. 

Doorish range, 514. 

Douce, 71, 76, 79. 

- — Drum, 522. 

of Dublin, 63. 

Dunmanway, 408. 

Dysart hills, 479. 

Eagle mountain (Mourne), 590. 

Eagle's Nest, Bantry, 46S. 

" '' Killarney. 

Errigal, 514, 

Eshery, 132. 

Fews, 488. 

Fore, Ben of, 289. 

Forth, Ben of, 498. 

Galtee, 551, 602, 604. 

Garraun, 224, 226. 

Glena, 35. 

Glendowan, 514. 

Golden Spears (Wicklow), 64. 

GuUogeaboy, 510. 

Hungry mountain, 467. 

Keeper, 602. 

Kenramer, 146. 

Kilraanganagh hills, 604, 

King's mountain, 510. , 

Kippure, intra., y'\., 63, 78, 294. 

Kirrikee, S3. 

Knockanore, 528. 

Knockanask,52S. 

Knockeyan, 287. 

Knockfearna, 552. 

Knock-Layd, 130. 

Knockmeledown. 522, 602, 604. 

Knocknafallia, 52S. 

Knocknacloghole, 77. 

Knocknarea,' 511. 

Knocknastorkin, 528. 

Knockpatrick. 552. 

Legavannon, 576. 

in Leitrim, 4S7. ' 

Lisoughter. 195. 

Letterbrecan, 203, 204. 

LugdufT, 83, 86. 

Lugnaquilla, S3, 102. 

Lurgethan, 132. 

Maam Ean, 200. 

Maam Thomas, 396. 

Maam Turk, 17S, 200, 201, 224, 230 

Magillicuddy's Reeks, iS, 3S. 

Malloge (Connemara), 223. 

Mangerton, ^3. 

Mary Gray, 536. 

of Mayo, 391, 393, 395, 398, 399. 

Mizen-head, 465. 

Mon-a-Vullagh, 522, 531. 

Mount Gabriel, 463. 



638 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Mountains, Hills and notable Elevations. — Continued : 

Mount Gunnery, 462. 

Mount Leinster, 401, 404,498, 507. 

Mourne, 491, 5S9. 

Muckish, 514. 

Muilrea, 227, 382. 

MuUacop, S3. 

Munterlowney, 536. 

Nachore, 129. 

Nephin, 3S2, 400. 

Oorid, 194. 

■ Ox Mountains, 382, 510. 

Paps, 38. 

Purple, iS, 21, 22, 38. 

Sawel, 536, 576. 

■ Scar, 77. 

Seefingen. 78. 

Sheehy Mountains, 459. 

Slieve-an-ierin, 487. 

Slieve-ardagh, 602, 603. 

• Slievebeagh, 488. 

Slieve Beg (Mourne), 590. 

Slieve Bernagh, 587. 

■ • Slieve Bingian, 590. 

Slieve Bloom, 479. f 

■ Slieve Buckli, 77. 

SlievebuUiagh, 132. 

Slievebuy, 507. 

Slieve Croaghan, 399. 

Slieve Croob, 590, 599. 

Slieve Daeane, 511. 

Slieve GuUion, 473, 576. 

Slieve Mish (Kerry), 54, 57. 

Slieve Mish, 174. 

Slieve More (Achill), 399, 

Slieve More, 590. 

Slieve Muck. 590. 

Slieve-na-man, 602, 603. 

Slieve-na-muck, 602. 

Slieve Partree range, 394. 

Slieve Phelim, 551, 603. 

Slieve Snaght, 514. 

Slieve Snaght, east, 518. 

• Slish, 511. 

Sperrin, 536. 

Sugar-Loaf (Cork), 467. 

■ Sugar-Loaf (Wicklow), 64. 

Table Mountain, 83. 

Thonelagee, 80. 

Toomies, 18, 22, 38. 

Tore, 48. 

Trooperstown, 82. 

Trostan, 132. 

Truskmore, 510. 

"Twelve Pins," Bennebola, 194-198. 

Vinegar Hill, 507. 

War, 79. 

White Mountain, 507. 

in Wexford, 498. 

in Wicklow, 294. 



Mountjoy, 419 ; lord deputy, pacifies Cork, 427. 
Mount Juliet, 537. 

Kennedy, 102. 

Melleray, or abbey of St. Bernard la Trappe, 523 ; 

history and description of, 524 ; discipline of the 
monks, 525 ; their hospitality, 527 ; MSS. in library, 
528. 
Mellick, 4S0. 

Nephin, 390. 

Oorid, 194. 

Mourne Mountain, fine view of, 590. 

Moville ruins, 591, 597. 

MoycuUin (Ma^'/t-U/lin), 192,232. 

Moyne abbey, 400. 

Moytura, 244, 390. 

Muckross Abbey, 8 ; described, 11 ; Weldon, 14 ; cloister, 

14 ; by moonlight, 16 ; demesne, 9. 
Muilrea, 390. 
MuUinahone, 605. 
MuUingar, 286, 2S9. 
Mulrany, view from, 391. 
Multifernam abbey, 287 ; the Confederate War planned 

there, 288. 
Munroe, Covenanter, directs the Island Magee massacre, 

126; treacherously seizes earl of Antrim, 170 ; 

burns Antrim, 176. 
Muredach, cross of, 495, 496. 
Murlough, 133. 
Murphy. Father John, a patriot leader in '98, 402. 

Father Michael, a priest-general, killed at Arklow, 107. 

Nicholas, 323. 

Murray, col., kills gen. Maumont, 57S. 
Musgrave, on proofs of rebellious instincts, 572. 
Muskerry, lord, takes Limerick, 427. (See MacCarthy, 

Donagh.) 
My roe, 576. 
Myrtle grove, Raleigh's house, 43S. 

Naas, first revolt in '98, 570 ; tower and moat at, 570. 

Nachore hill, 129. 

Nagle, 458. 

Names, change of, by statute, 592. 

Nangles, 255. 

Nanny River, 275. 

Nantes, revocation of the Edict of, 428. 

Narrow-Water, 590 ; castle, 601. 

Nation, journal, 335, 336, 374, 403. 

National Gallery, Dublin, works in, 375. 

journals suppressed, 336. 337. 

Navan, 259, 266. 

Fort, 475. 

Neagh, lough, intro., iii., 473 ; tributaries of, 576. 

Needham, royalist general, 107. 

Nelson-Bridge, 500. 

Nelson monument, Dublin, 255. 

Nemedian colony, 414. 

Nemedius, 248. 

Nenagh, 605, 615. 

Nessan, St. 306, 434. 

New Bermingham, 54S. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



639 



Newcastle, 590, 599. 

New Church, lough Gur, 559, 562. 

Newenham, sir E., 360 ; View of Ireland, 446. 

Newfoundwell, viaduct, 494. 

New Grange, Irish pyramid, 247 ; one of the oldest Celtic 

monuments, notice of, 279 ; Llhwyd, Molyneux, 

Wilde and T. Davis on, 279, 2S1. 
New Hall, 584. , 
Newport, Mayo', 391, 396. 
Newport, Tipperary, 605. 
New Ross, 49S, 506, 537. 

Newry, 590 ; ruins, 591 ; derivation of name, 601. 
Newtown (Meath), remains at, 251. 
Newtownards, 597. 
Newtownbridge, ruins at, 258. 
Newtown-Hamilton, 476. 
Newtown Liraavady, 576. 
Newtown-Mount Kennedy, 100. 
Newtown-Park obelisk, 3S0. 

Newtown-Stewart, 536. •• 

Niagara Falls petrified, 135. 
Nimmo, Mr., engineer, 231. 
Nine-Mile House, 539. 
Nobber, 263. 

Nore, principal river of Kilkenny, 537 ; its course, 603. 
Norris, 180. 

sir J. D., 454. 

Northern Coast of the County of Antrim, etc. (see Hamilton, 

passim). 
Noted journalistic localities in Dublin, 374, 
Nuala, princess, 3S6. 
Nuala, O'Donnell, founded Franciscan abbey, Donegal, 

515- 
Nugent, Gilbert de, 249. 

royalist general, 176. 

lord Delvin, escape of, 363. 

O'Brenan, 538. 
O'Brien, 562, 582. 

Ara, 605. 

bishop, author of Irish-Etiglish Dictionary, 415. 

Brien, driven from Urkuffs, 543. 

• Donagh Carbragh, founds the abbey of Holy Cross, 

615. 

Donald, paid tribute to Henry III., 5S2 ; drives the 

invaders from Limerick and builds the cathedral, 
554; founded cathedral at Killaloe, 586; defeats 
the English at Thurles, 606 ; erects cathedral at 
Cashel, 613 ; passim, 554, 570, etc. 

Henry, on Knockmoy frescoes, 239. 

Murtaugh, destroys the grianan of Aileach, 519 ; 

king transferred seat of royalty from Cashel to 
Limerick, 554. 

of Thomond, defeats Strongbow, 605. 

— — Teigue, prince of Thomond, built Inchiquin castle, 
587. 

Turiough, wastes Cork, 423. 

Tirlough, defeats the Butlers and burgesses of Kil- 

kenny, 543. 
— — William Smith, 531 ; approved by citizens of Cork, 



429 ; ^.rrest of, 336 ; tried in Clonmel, 607 ; tomb 
of, 564 ; statue, 335. 

O'Brien's country made shire ground, 582. 

O'Byrne, Clan-Ranelagh, 64. 

O'Byrne, Feagh MacHugh, a famous Wicklow chief, 84 ; 
defeats the English at Glenmalure, 84 ; his head 
spiked on Dubhn castle, 363. 

O'Cahan, 144 {see O'Kane, 573). 

O'Canes, 574-578. 

O'CaroIan, Turlogh, bard, 268 ; buried at Kilronan, 478. 

O'Carrol, 605. 

O'Cleary, Michael, chief of the "Four Masters," 515. 

O'Connell, Daniel, at Derrynane, 52 ; first speech against 
the Union, 366 ; elected for Cork, 428 ; at Tara, 
265 ; speeches of, 331 ; presents a crown to 
George IV., 331 ; prosecution of, 332 ; attended to 
court by the lord mayor and corporation, 335 ; tri- 
umphal procession from jail, 335; monument in 
Dublin, 335 ; Hogan's statue of, 366 ; Round Tower, 
to, 380 ; statue in Limerick, 558 ; statue in Ennis 
by Cahill, 584. 

John, prosecuted, 335. 

Maurice, 51. 

" O'Connell's Country," 51. 
O'Connor, 5S2. 

Fergus, Chartist leader, 270. 

Roger, 270 ; buried, 442. 

Sligo, 510. 

Mr., of Cork, builds the Mathew Tower, 419. 

O'Conor, antiquities of Roscommon connected with, 478 ; 

monuments to the king of the race, 510. 

Cathal Crovdearg, king, 238. 

Dr. C. , 264 ; on legend of St. Senanus, 588. 

Maurice, the canon, 386. 

Roderick, king, 231, 239 ; attacks Trim, 253, 308, 

383 ; retires to Cong abbey, 3S5 ; where buried ? 
385 ; passim, 179, 478, 582, etc. 

Turiough, king, receives a relic of the True Cross 

from the Pope, 387, 388. 

Octennial bill carried by Irish Parliament, 320. 

O'Curry, E., 188, 380; his birthplace, 58S ; on "Crom- 
lechs" and "Druids' Altars," 126 ; his Planners 
a7id Cus/otns of the Ancient Irish, edited by Dr. W. 
K. Sullivan, 435 ; on the Annals of the Four Mas- 
ters, %\1^. 

O'Dallany, Felix, bishop, founded St. Canice's cathedral, 
545- 

O'Dea, 605. 

O'Dowd, 253. 

O'Doherty, sir Cahir, burns the new town at Derry, 574. 

Kevin I., arrested, 336, 337. 

O'Donaghoe, 605. 
O'Donegan, 605. 

O'Donnell, 123, 515. 

Hugh, escape of, 363. 

Hugh Roe, 515. 

Nial Garv, 115. 

"earl of Tyrconnel," flight of, 576. 

O'Donoghue of the Lakes, 11 ; legend of, 39, 40 ; his mem- 
ory at the lakes, 40 ; his mistress, 42 . 



GENERAL INDEX. 



O'Donovan, Dr. John, 89 ; on St. Patrick's skill in con- 
verting the pagan Irish, :g ; reference to, 188, 241, 
259, 260 ; on Beltinne, 264 ; on early Irish cove- 
nants, 267, 375, 380, 533 ; birthplace, 550. 

O'DriscoUs, 464 ; castle of, 465. 

O'Dubhagan, Matthew, founded the abbey on Devenish, 
486. 

O'Dubhghennain, one of the " Four Masters," 515. 

O'Duffy, Daniel, bishop, 38S. 

Muireadach, archbishop, 3S8. 

O'Dugan's Topography, 591. 
O'Dwyer, 605. 

O'Echan, Maclisa, artist of the Cross of Cong, 3S8. 
O'Flaherty, 179, 253. 

dame, made a captain by queen Elizabeth, 232. 

■ Emun /aider, encounters with Martin, 210. 

Father Francis, of Arran, igo. 

Roderick, on the Twelve Pins, 207. 

O'Fogarty, 605. 

O'Garbh, 582. 

Ogygia, intro., I. 

Ogham writing in cave of Dunloe, iS. 

O'Hagan, canon, on O'Connell, 332. 

lord chancellor, 340. 

O'Halloran, historian, 423. 

Burke's village schoolmaster, 459. 

O'Hanlon. Rev. J., 235 ; Lives of Irish Saints, 536. 
O'Heffernan, 605. 

O'Hegny, 4S1. 

Oir Mumhan (Ormond), 605. 

O'Keeffe, John, dramatist, 107. 

O'Kelly, 253, 592. 

Okenden, on Killarney, 27. 

O'Kennedy, 605. 

Old-Bridge, battle of the Boyne, 283, 492. 

Olderfleet castle, 127. 

Old Ross, royal residence, 402. 

Old Weir Bridge (Killarney), rapids, 30. 

O'Leary, Rev. Arthur, 437. 

Arthur, victim of the Penal laws, slain, 442. 

O'Loghlen, sir Michael, statue of, 358. 

O'Lonergan, 605, 610. 

O'Loughlin, 5S2. 

O'Maelchonaire, Ferfessius, one of the " Four Masters," 

515- 
Omagh, 536. 

O'Mahony, John, 3S0, 423 ; escape of in '4S, 531. 
O'Mahonys of Kerricurrihy, 427. 
O'Malley, Grace, carries off the heir of Ilowth, 304, 395 ; 

her reply to queen Elizabeth, 39S. 
O'Meagher, 605. 
O'Meara, 605. 
O'Melaghlin, Murchard, king, 249 ; founds Bective abbey, 

258. 
O'More, dynast of Leix, 479, 480. 
O'Neill, 122, 175, 515, 535, 591, etc. 
Conn, loses his lands in the Ards, 593. 

Henry and Art, escape of, 363. 

Henry, artist, on the Book of Kelts, 267. 

Hugh, 123 ; defeats the English and slays Seagrave at 



Clontibret, 488 ; raises the Munster chiefs, 458 ; 
legend of his troop of horse, 519 ; soldier and dip. 
lomat, 536 ; flight of, 576. 

Hugh Boye, drove the savages to the little Ards, 598. 

colonel Hugh, defends Limerick, 555. 

• Nial, presumptive king, 475. 

sir Phelim, unsuccessfully attacks Drogheda, 493, 

536- 

Shane 119, 174, English hatred of, 174 ; defeats the 

English at Derry, 574 ; repulsed at Ardkeen, 598 ; 
sovereign of Ulster, 535 ; murdered, and his head 
set up on a pole, 363, 535. 

O'Neills (O'Nial), chief seat of, 535 ; inauguration chair 
of, 175- 

O'Neills of Clandeboy, tomb of, 175. 

O'Nials (see O'Neill). 

One Man's Path, 514. 

"Orangemen," first lodge founded, 476. 

Orbsen, MacAlloid, 234. 

Ordnance Survey of Ireland, 260. 

O'Regan, Teague, governor of Charlemont, 475 ; starved 
out, 476. 

O'Reilly, hish Writers, 495. 

Origin and History of hish Names of Places (see Joyce, 
passim). 

Ormond, entertains Richard II. , 543. 

earl of, annexes part of Queens County to Kilkenny, 

53»- 

eighth Earl of, Lord Deputy, 539. 

lord lieutenant, concludes a treaty with the Confed- 
erate Parliament, 544. 

tenth earl of, estates of Jerpoint granted to, 541. 

-; effort to unite loyal Protestants and Catholics, 427. 

duke of, takes Carrickfergus castle, 123 ; proclama- 
tion excluding Catholics from towns, 123. 

duke of, establishes woolen trade in Carrick, 608. 

portrait of Duke, 379. 

upper and lower, 604. 

Orosius, intro., i. 

O'Ryan, of Hy-drone, conflict with Slrongbow, 402. 

O'Shaughnessy, 253. 

O'Sheas, 538. 

Ossian, his grave at Layd, 134. 

Ossory, 537. 

earl of, portrait, 379. 

O'SuUivan, castle of, 467. 

More, castle, 18, 

O'SuUivan's cascade, 33. 

Otway, 229, 230, 231, 234, 394, 463, 472, 482, etc. 

Rev. C, on lough Corrib, iiitm., iv.. .v. ; on St. 

Brendan, 60 ; on Glendalough, 89 ; references /a.f- 

.r//«. 
O'Toole, St. Laurence, 344. 

sept of, 66. 

Oughterard village, 194. 

(Connemara), 2 to. 

Oulart Hill, 498. 
Outra, Lough, 243. 

demesne and castle, 243. 

Ovens, the, 442. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



641 



Owenglen river, 218. 

Ozanam, Frederick, on veneration for the dead, intra., x. 

Pacata Hibeniia, 610. 

Pagan Irish, conversion of, 89. 

Pakenham, dean, monument to, 351. 

Pale, the English, 250. 

Pallas, birthplace-of Goldsmith, 2gl. 

green, 552. 

Panormo, Constantine, sculptor, group by, 376. 

" Papist, five pounds for your horse !" 442. 

Parliament of 1309, held in Kilkenny, 542. 

■ also held in Kilkenny during the years 1331, 1347, 

1356, 1367, 1370, 1374. 543- 

of 1419, Naas, 570. 

of 1463, Wexford, 505. 

of the Confederation, 543 ; how constituted, 544. 

of 1689, 314. 

of 1703, Dublin, 31S. 

from 1688 to 1782, 319. 

of 1729, fight on the supplies, 319. 

held in Chichester house, 318 ; in Blue Coat Hospi- 
tal, 319 ; in Christ Church, 344 ; in Drogheda, 492. 

first meeting in College Green, 3x9. 

conflicts with the viceroy, Octennial bill, etc., 319, 

320, 322. 

House of Commons burned, 322. 

the speaker declines to yield the mace at the 

" Union," 371. 

Pamell, Charles Stewart, 430. 

sir John, residence at Avondale, 103. 

Parsonstown (Birr), 471. 

Paschal II., Pope, sends a part of the Holy Cross to 
O'Brien, 615. 

Passage, 41S. 

Passes in the Donegal Highlands, 514. 

Patrick, St., a swineherd, 128, 174 ; place of first landing, 
65 ; opposed by Leinster men, 66 ; repulsed at 
Bray river, sails north and lands in Lecale, 594 ; 
hospitably received by Dicho, 594 ; celebrates mass 
in a barn, 594 ; raises the cross at Slane, 247 ; 
lights the Paschal fire, 264 ; appears before the 
king. 265 ; founds Trim, 252 ; converts the king 
of Dublin, 347 ; founds Armagh, 474 ; at Alta- 
daven, 536; founds St. Mungret's, 558; founds a 
monastery and plants a yew at Newry, 601 ; bap- 
tizes king ^'Engus, and consecrates St. Ailbe at 
Cashel, 612 ; vision of at Cashel, 612 ; his death 
and age, 594 ; obsequies, 595 ; relics enshrined, 
595 ; shrine desecrated, 598 ; his skill in convert- 
ing the pagan Irish, 89 ; tooth of, 386 ; passim, 
2S2, .475, 566, etc. 

Pearce, sir E. L., surveyor-general, 371. 

Percy, bishop, buried in Down, 596. 

Pembroke, earl of, founded Tintern Abbey, 500, 546. 

Penal statutes, 319. 

Pennant, Mr., error in comparing Fingal's Cave and 
Giant's Causeway corrected, i55. 

Penn, William, 419 ; becomes a Quaker at Cork, 427 ; sent 
to prison, 427. . 



Penn, admiral sir William, born at Macroom, 436 ; Penn= 
sylvania named in his honor, 443. 

Pennyburn mill, sortie from Derry on, 578. 

Penny Journal, Dublin, on Dublin city, 326. 

" Peep-o-day Boys," 476. 

Peppard, Richard, builds Trim Castle, 254. 

Perrott, sir John, 520, 593. 

Perry, Anthony, patriot leader in '98, 250. 

Peter and Paul, SS., abbey of (Meath), 251, 258. 

Petrie, Dr. George, researches in Arran, 190, 193, 239, 241 ; 
on the Boyne, 246, 259, 260 ; Essay on Tara Hill, 
264. 

Pettigo, 516. 

Pettit, Wm., 249. 

Petty, sir Wm., 343. 

Phcenix Park, 379 ; Pillar, 379. 

Phillipstown, 479. 

Pictorial Guide, etc., 430. 

Picturesque Europe, on Dunluce Castle, 170. 

Pierce's Table, 102. 

Pier at Dublin, 295. 

Piers, longest in the world, 295. 

Piers, sir Pigot, 380. 

Pigeon-House fort, Dublin, 295. 

Pigeon-Hole cave, 383. 

chasm, 234. 

Pike, the, at Dunloe, 21. 

Playfair, Dr., on basaltic pillars of Fair Head, 135. 

Pleaskin, 150 ; names of cliffs and capes near, 150, 152 ; 
described, Forbes, Hamilton, Hoare. Hall, on, 151, 
154- 

Plunkett, Maud, maid, wife and widow in one day, 302. 

Nicholas, speaker of the Confederate Parliament, 

544- 

Plunkett, Rev. R., abbot, 267. 

Plutarch, intra., I. 

Poetry quoted : Irish Rivers, by Edmund Spenser, intra., 
v.; The Ocean, by John Augustus Shea, intra., vii. ; 
inscriptions, etc., on tomb at Muckross, 11, 14, 15 ; 
Monastery Hospitality, 12 ; Innisfallen, Thomas 
Moore, 34 ; O" Donoghue' s Mistress, by T. Moore, 
42 ; Derrynane, by Denis Florence MacCarthy, 52 ; 
Voyage af St. Brendan, by D. F. MacCarthy, 58 ; 
Celtic Crosses, by John Savage, 94 ; Spanish poem 
on Devifs Glen, by Villanueva, 97 ; Lines an Mrs. 
Tighe, by T. Moore, 99 ; Meeting of the Waters, by 
T. Moore, 104 ; Hy-Brassail, by Gerald Griffin, 
191; Tara and Conneniara, by T. Moore, 211; 
from Henry IV. (Shakspere), 254 ; from Heniy VI. 
(Shakspere), 256 ; famous lines by Bishop Berkeley, 
414 ; Cork Men and New York Men, by T. D. 
Sullivan, 430 ; lines by Father O'Leary, 434 ; 
lines by Father Prout, 435 ; lines on Bandon Gate, 
by Dean Swift, 446 ; localities near Kilcolman and 
Irish Rivers, by E. Spenser, 455 ; Gougane Barra, 
by J. J. Callanan, 460 ; Ballyspellin Spa, by Dr. 
Sheridan, 548. 

Poers, 532. 

Poolanass fall, gi. 

Portadown, 476. 



64: 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Portaferry, 5S9 ; Savage's castle at, 598. 

Portlaw, conflict at, 532 ; cotton factory, 523. 

Port Largi, 533. 

Portlock's Geology, 155. 

Portmarnock, 299, 3S0. 

Port na Spania, 154. 

Portora, Royal School, 4S3. 

Portrane, 299. 

Portrush, 17:, 576. 

Portumna, 243. 

Potatoes first planted in Ireland at Youghal, 43S ; Shak- 

spere on, 438. 
Poid-an-Iffrin (Hell-hole), 440. 
Poul-a-phuca waterfall, description of, 108. 
Power, captain, defense of Dunmoe, 272. 
Powers, 534. 

Powerscourt, demesne, 71 ; deer park and waterfall, 72. 
Poynings, sir Edward, lands at Howth, installed at Dublin, 

311. 

Law, 492. 

Prendergast, Maurice, leader of the first Anglo-Norman 
expedition, 497. 

Rev. Patrick, last " Lord Abbot" of Cong, 3S6 ; pre- 

served the Cross of Cong and other relics, 3S6. 
'Prentice boys shut the gates of Derry, 577 ; result of, 578. 
Press, the, of '98, 374. 
Price (ap Rice), 592. 

Protestant (French) families settled in Cork, 42S. 
Psalter of CasJiel, 558. 

Tara, 278. 

Psyche, a poem, 98. 

Ptolemy, intro., \., 134, 148, 179, etc. 
Pugin, architect, 17, 507. 
Pullans, the, 514. 
Punchestown races, 570. 
Pyne, chief justice, 450. 

Quakers in Clonmel, 607. 

Quarries, green marble, Galway, 217. 

Queen's College, Belfast, 115. 

Galway, 1S5. 

Cork, 431. 

Forbes on efficiency of. 435. 

Queen's county, 479 ; ancient principality of Ossory and 

Leix, 479. 
Quin abbey, 5S6, 587. 

P.aheny, 306. 

Railroad, first in Ireland, 332. 

Raleigh, sir Walter, arrives in Ireland, 43S ; receives large 

grants of Desmond's lands, 438 ; mayor of Youghal, 

438 ; plants potatoes, 438 ; visited by Spenser, 439 ; 

connected with the massacre at Smeruick, 55 ; dies 

on the scaffold, 458. 
Ram's Island, 174, 175. 

Randolph, English general, defeated at Derry, 574. 
Kanger, American ship, captures the Drake, 124, 
Raphoe, 514. 

Rapin, historian, house of, 515. 
Ratlibeggan, 270. 



Rathdrum, 82 ; bridge at, 82, 102. 

Rath Laoghaire, Tara, 260. 

Rathlin, (Raghcrry) Island described, 146 ; Danish de- 
scent and Scotch massacre, on, 147 ; Robert Bruce's 
refuge on, 147 ; English invasion of, 14S ; optical 
illusions at, 171 ; supposed to have connected 
Scotland and Ireland, 14S. 

Rathmacnee castle, 504. 

Rath-ita-Seanadh, rath of the synod, Tara, 262. 

Rath-na-Righ, the king's rath, Tara, 262. 

Raths in county Down, 590, 591. 

Ray, Thomas M., prosecuted, 335. 

Raymond, Dr., vicar of Trim, 270. 

Rebellious instincts, proofs of, 572. 

Recess, 225. 

Red Bay, 131 ; castle, 132. 

Red Branch knights, 475, 591. 

Reggio, Straits of. Fata Motgana in, 171. 

Reginald's tower, 533. 

Reilly, Thomas Devin, 337. 

Residences of Leinster kings, 402. 

Reynolds, T., an informer. 362. 

Rheban, ancient city in Ptolemy's map, 570. 

Rhinn-Mahon ruins, 419. 

Richard II. imprisons the sons of Gloucester and Lan- 
caster in Trim, 254 ; holds splendid court in Dub- 
lin, 311 ; holds court in Drogheda, 492 ; arrives at 
Kilkenny, 543. 

Richard, duke of York, lord lieutenant, 255. 

Richardson, Dr., Whin-dykes, 155. 

Ridge of old Leighlin, 402. 

Rincrew castle, 522. 

Rinuccini, nuncio, 544. 

Rinvyle, 224. 

Rivers and streams, principal, intra., iv.. v. 

Aan, 131. 

Annamoe, 76, 79. 

Anner, 608, 611. 

-. Ardera, 548. 

Arifl, 131. 

Arigna, 487. 

Arra, 603. 

Avonmore, 79, 103. 

Awbeg, 409. 

Aw-Marteen (Blarney), 451. 

Bally mena, 174. 

Bandon, 40S. 

Bann, 576, 590. 

Banna, 507. 

Barrow, 402, 501. 

Breagh, 542. 

Bealanabrack, 230. 

Blackwater(Meath), 266. 

Blackwater (Munster), 406, 522. 

Blackwater (Ulster), 475. 

Boyle, 487. 

Boyne, 246, 471. 

Bricky. 530. 

Bride, 406, 442, 452. 

Brosna, 286, 471, 603. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



643 



Rivers and streams, principal. — Continued ; 

Bundoragh, 393. 

Calligan, 530. 

Camlin, 2go. 

Clare river, 236. 

Clashaluin, 611. 

Comaun at tlarney, 451. 

Dall, 131. 

Dargle, 67. 

Dawross, 224. 

Dinan, 537. 

Dodder, 294. 

Dun, 131. 

Deel, 552. 

Eany-heg, 514. 

Eany-more, 514. 

Erne, 481. 

Faughan, 576. 

Fergus, 579. 

Finn, 514. 

Fiorish, 487. 

Foyle, 536, 576. 

Funcheon, 604. 

Gallive, 191. 

Galway river (Kerry), 24. 

Garrogue, 510. 

— ■ — Gearhameen, 22. 

Glanealo, the infant Avonmore, 95. 

Glencoaghan, 210. 

Glendassan. 94. 

Glenislorane, 67. 

Hen, 408, 462. 

Inny, 286, 290, 291. 

Kerry, 67. 

King's river, Kilkenny, 539. 

Lagan, 114, 590. 

Laune, iS. 

'- Lee, 406, 408. 

Liffey, 78, 295. 

Loe, 19, 

Main, 174. 

Mattock, 494. 

Mourne, 536. 

Moy, 400. 

Moyola, 576. 

Nanny river, 275. 

Nenagh, 603. 

Nevvry river, 600. 

Nore, 603. 

Owen Carran, 514. 

Owen Erriff, 393. 

Owenmore, 210, 214, 520. 

Owen-reagh, 576. 

Poolanass, 9I. 

Reelan, 514. 

Rinn, 290. 

Roe, 573, 576. 

Rye-water, 567, 572. 

Shannon, 520, 603. 

Scar, 499. 



Rivers and streams, principal. — Continued : 

Shimna, 599. 

Six-Mile Water, 176. 

Slaney, 402, 498, 507. 

Suck, 177. 

Suir, 501, 522, 603. 

SuUane, 443. 

Tolka, 294. 

Vartry, 95, 98. 

Roaring Water bay, islands in, 462, 463, 

Robber's bridge, 271. 

Robinson, primate (lord Rokeby), re-edifies Armagh cathe- 
dral, 474. 

Roche, 414, 428, 452, 458. 

Dominick, mayor of Cork, 427. 

Maurice, mayor of Cork, 427. 

of Artramont, romance of, 506. 

Roche's castle, 491 ; demolished by Croiiiwell, 492. 

Roche's point, 409. 

Rochester, earl of, portrait of, 379. 

Rochfort, Simon de, 25S. 

Roe, Mr. Henry, restores Christ Church, 346. 

Rosanna, demesne of, 98. 

Roscommon, county of, 477 ; boundary of, 477. 

town, 478. 

Roscrea, 602, 605 ; remains and Round Tower, 615. 

Ross, general, obelisk to, 601, 

Ross, natural bridges, 580, 583, 588. 

Catholic bishop of, his bravery at Carrig-a-droid, 443. 

Rosscarbery, 461. 

Ross castle and island, 36 ; capitulation of, 38 ; Willis on, 
33. 

Rosscor, 48 1. 

Rosse, earl of, astronomer, 472. 

Rosserk abbey, 400. 

Rosstrevor, 590 ; 600 ; beauty of, 600 ; general Ross' ob- 
elisk, 601. 

Rostellan Castle, 436. 

Rotunda, Dublin, 355. 

Roothe, 53S. 

Roundstone, 208, 214, 215. 

Round Towers : 

Aghadoe, 17. " 

Antrim, 176. 

Ardmore, 530. 

Ardpatrick, 553. 

Ballybeg, Cork, 454. 

Carrigeen, 553. 

Cashel, 612. 

Castlebar, 400. 

Castledennot. 565. 

— — Clondalkin, 380. 
Clones, 488. 

Clonmacnoise, 471. 

Cloyne, 414. 

Croom, 533, 562. 

Devenish, 485-86. 

Donaghmore (Heath), 268. 

Downpatrick, 591. 

Drumbo, 591. 



644 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Round Towers. — Co7itiniteii : 

Drumcliffe, 512. 

Iniscaltra, 587. 

Inniscattei'y. 5SS. 

Ireland's Eye, 306. 

Kells, 268. 

Kilcullen, Old, 565. 

Kildare, 565. 

Kilkenny, 545. 

Killala, 4C0. 

Killashee, 565. 

Kilmacduagh, 242. 

Kilmallock, 553, 563. 

Kilree, 540. 

Lusk, 2g4, 302. 

Maghera, 591. 

McCarthy's, Clonmacnoise, 471. 

Monasterboice, 496. 

O'Rourke's, Clonmacnoise, 471- 

Oughterard (Kildare), 565. 

Ram Island, 175. 

Roscrea, 615. 

St. Bennan, 244. 

Swords. 302. 

TaghadoL", 565. 

Trummery, 176. 

Tulloherin, 549. 

Round Towa-s of Inland, The, by H. O'Brien, 239. 
Roundwood, reservoir of Dublin Water-works, 75, 95. 
Royal Dublin Society incorporated. 31S, 330, 338, 358, 

371 ; eminent art students of, 37O. 

Hibernian Academy, 376 ; exhibitions at, 377. 

Irish Academy, 266 ; its treasures, 378. 

Ruins, eloquence of, intro,, xi. 

Run T/uvugii the West of Iniitnd a^a\&&, 195, 220. 

Run Through the South of Ireland, 430. 

Rupert, prince, arrival at Kihsale, 445. 

Rush, 302, 3S0. 

Russell, Dr., on people and customs of Forth and Bargy, 

502, 504. 
Ryan, monk of Melleray, MS. Psalter by, 52S. 



Sahhall Padruic, 594. 

Sackville street, Dublin, 353. 

Saintfield, rath, 590. 

Sally-Gap, 78. 

Salmon leap, Coleraine, 575 ; Leixlip, 572. 

Salmon, the country of. 216. 

Salruc, 226 ; pass, 227. 

Saltee Islands, 499. 

Salt-Pans, the, 136. 

Sarsfield, Patrick, destroys King William's siege train, 555 ; 

foresight and activity at the defense of Limerick, 

556. 
Saul Abbey, 594. 
Savage, 122 ; Island Magee, 126, 299 ; early settlement in the 

Ards. 592 ; predatory attacks on the MacGilmores, 

592 ; family disputes settled by lord deputy, 598 ; 

adopted Irish customs, 59S ; lord deputy enters 



the Ards against them, 59S ; monuments to family 
of, 598 ; old castle at Portaferry, 599. 

sir Arthur, 570. 

John, gets into St. Kevin's Bed, 92 ; lines on Celtic 

Crosses, 94 ; " '98 and '48," 498 ; in the mountains 
with O'Mahony, 531 ; passim, 312, 337, etc. 

Raymond (A.D. 1196), built castle at Ardkeen, 598. 

Raymond, i6th century, 598. 

sir Robert, defeats the Irish at Antrim, 176. 

Roland, 598. 

Scalp, descriptions of the, 63. 

Scariff Island. 51. 

Scenerj', of lakes, rivers, mountains and coast (see Intro- 
duction, passim). Ruins, intro. viii., of the Boyne, 
246, 272 ; Clew Bay, 392, 395 ; Glen Eriff to West- 
port, 393 ; from Newport-Mayo to Achill, Hall on, 
396 ; Bunowen to Achill, 398 ; loughs Conn and 
Cullin. 400; from Carlow to Leighlin's Bridge, 404 ; 
the Lee from Cork to the sea, 415, 420 ; in the 
district of Bandon, 446 ; at Blarney, 44S ; lower 
valley of the Blackwater, 454 ; southwestern dis- 
trict of Ireland. 463 ; features of the great estu- 
aries, 466 ; of Lough Erne, 482, 483 ; Carlingford, 
490, 491 ; from Sligo town, 510 ; lough Gill, Sligo, 
511 ; from Knocknarea, 512 ; Donegal, 513 ; of the 
Blackwater (Munster), 522 ; Blackwater at Cappo- 
quin and Lismore, 528 ; at and from Lismore castle, 
529 ; valley of the Suir, 531 ; of the Nore, 537, 53S; 
Thomastown (Kilkenny), 549 ; Inistioge, 550 ; in 
the mountains of Londonderry, 576 ; on the sea- 
coast from Portrush to Magilligan, 578 ; from Loop 
Head, 580 ; from Killaloe to Scariff, Clare, 5S7 ; 
southern part of county Down, 590 ; from heights of 
Castlewellan, 599 ; of the Galtees, 604 ; of the 
Keeper mountains, 604 ; in the valley of the Suir 
near Carrick, 608 ; around town of Tipperary. 61 T, 
etc., etc. 

Schomberg, 114, 123 ; tablet to, 350. 

Schools of learning, famous: Armagh, 250. 474 ; Bangor, 
250, 596 ; Clonard, 250 ; Clonmacnoise, 250, 472 ; 
Kildare, 566 ; St. Finnbar's. 423 ; Trim, 252. 

Scott, sir Walter, on Killarney, 30 ; at Glendalough, 89 ; 
moved by Miss Edgeworth's writings, 291 ; visits 
the scenery of the Lee, Cork, and kisses the Blar- 
ney stone, 450; passim, 150, 592. 

Scullagh Gap, defense of, 402. 

Sculpture, ancient Irish, notices of at Glendalough, 8S (see 
Art, 'ancient Irish). 

Scurlog, William de, 251. 

Scurlogstown castle, 251. 

Seagrave, a gigantic officer slain by O'Neill, 48S. 

Senanus. St., founds monastic establishment on Inniscattery, 
588 ; legend of, 588 ; his oratory, 588. 

Seven Churches, Vale of. (See Glendalough.) 

Shakspere quoted, 254, 256. 

Shanagolden, 552. 

" Shandon Bells," intro., v. 

castle, erected. 42O ; attacked, 427. 

church and steeple (St. Anne's), Father O'Leary on, 

434- 



GENERAL INDEX. 



645 



Shane's Castle, 172, 174. 

Shanganagh, 66, 294. 

Shannid, 553 ; rath and ruins, peculiar features of, 559. 

Shannon, its course, intro., iv. ; source and course in 
Cavan, 520 ; course of from lough Allen, 487 ; at 
AthlOne, 287 ; fertility of its banks, 579 ; steamboat 
trip down, 587 ; 286, 2go, 487, 552, 560, etc. 

harbor, 177 ; navigation, 48 7. 

Shea, hon. George, gift to Cork Library, 435, 53S. 

John Augustus, Address to the Ocean, intra., viii. 

Sheares brothers, patriots, executed, 323 ; buried, 360 ; 

bodies preserved in vaults of St. Michan's, 361. 
Shee Drum, 612. 
Shee, justice, 538. 

sir Martin Archer, artist, 376. 

Robert, his house used for the Confederate Parlia- 

ment, 543. 
Sheep-House, rallying point of the Jacobites, 284. 
Sheepshead, 466. 
Shelton Abbey, 103. 

Sheridan, Richard Brinsley, his schoolmaster, 374. 
Shiel, Richard Lalor, 534. 
Shimna stream, 599. 
Ship-pool Castle, 446. 
Shortals, 538. 

Sidney, sir Henry, Lord Deputy, 123, 5S2. 
" Silken Thomas," rebellion of, 312. 
Simnel, Lambert, crowned in Dublin, 311, 534. 
Sitric, the Danish king, defeated at Clontarf, 307, 308. 

Danish prince, slain, 490. 

Skerret, 180. 

Skerries, 3S0. 

Skellig rocks, the, 54. 

Skibbereen, 408, 462. 

Skull, 462. 

Slane, 265 ; abbey and castle of, 265, 272, 

Slane, recollections awakened by, 273 ; Wilde on, 274. 

Slaney, course of, 499 ; its scenery, 507. 

SUabh-Martiii, Howth. 306. 

Sliddery-ford, cromlech and pillar stones at, 599. 

Slieve-bulliagh, 132. 

Slieveleague, 514. 

Slieve-Mish, 128, 174. 

Slieve-na-man, 607, 608. 

Slieve-na-griddal, 595. 

SuGO, county of, 509 ; features of, 509 ; lakes and moun- 
tains, 510. 

town, notice of, new Town Hall, 510, 512. ' 

Smerwick, slaughter of Spaniards and Italians at, 55 ; Hall 
on, 55- 

Smith, Edward, sculptor, 352 ; notice of, 358 ; statue of 
Lucas, 366. 

Smith, John, sculptor, 354 378 ; statue of Walker, 577. 

JI r. , on gap of Dunloe, 1 9 ; History of Cork, 464 ; 

History of Kerry, 51. 

Sovarkie, ancient Milesian king, built Dun Sovarkie 
(Dunseverick), 143. 

Spanish Organ, 154. 

Spenser, Edmund, inti-o., i.; description of Ireland, intra., 
iii.; recommends the extirpation of Feagh Mac 



410 ; 
forti- 



Hugh, 84 ; his Faeiie Qtteene, 409 ; visits to Raleigh 
at Youghal, 439 ; his residence at Kilcolman, 455 ; 
composes the Faciie Qucene, 455 ; local correct- 
ness of his verses, 455 ; notice of his career in Ire- 
land, 456 ; grants of land 456 ; marries an Irish 
girl, 456 ; his house sacked and burned, 458 ; dies 
in England, 458 ; his descendants, 458, 538, etc. 

John le, first civic magistrate of Cork, 426. 

Spencer, Thomas le, sells Kilkenny Castle, 544. 
Spike Island, 409 ; John Mitchel imprisoned on 

meeting Edward Walsh, the poet, there, 411 

fications, 412. * 

Squares in Dublin, 374. 
St. Ann's (near Blarney), 452. 
St. Bernard's Chapel and baptistry, Mellifont, 495. 
St. Canice's cathedral, historical notice, 545 ; Round Tower, 

545 ; well, 545, 546. 
St. Catherine's abbey, Callan, 539. 
St. Colman, church of, 395. 

cathedral, Dromore (Down), 593, 596. 

St. Declan's Well, 529. 

St. Donlaugh's church and well, 299. 
St. Eden, cathedral, Ferns, 508 ; monument of, 50S 
St. Fenton's church, 306. 
St. Finnbar's cathedral, 432. 
St. George, sir Oliver, seizes Dublin Castle, 313. 
St. Germains, lord, opens Industrial Exhibition, 33S. 
■ St. Keevan's church, 464. 
St. Kiernan, chair of, 545. 
St. Laurence (Howth), 29S, 304. 

gate, Drogheda, 493, 494. 

St. Leger, Dame, monument to, 350. 
St. Mary's church, Clonmel, 609. 

Drogheda, 494. 

Isle, earl of Selkirk's, sacked by Paul Jones, 124. 

St. Michan, old Danish church of, 314, 359 ; patriots buried 
in, 360 ; remarkable antiseptic qualities of its 
vaults, 361 ; organ of, 362. 

St. Molaisse, house of, Devenish, 485. 

St. Mungret's priory, 558. 

St. Nicholas, church of, Carrickfergus, 124. 

Collegiate church of Galway, 183. 

St. Patrick's cathedral, Dublin, thanksgiving service in, 
314 ; knights installed in, 322 ; the national Ca- 
thedral of Ireland, 346 ; history of, 346, 347 ; monu- 
ments in, 350, 351. 

church, Inchangoill, 240. 

purgatory, Lough Derg, 516. 

well, Clonmel, 608. 

St. Ruth, general, killed, 478. 

St. Selskar, church ruins, 506 ; destroyed Ijy Cromwell, 506. 

Stackallan, holy well, 272. 

Staffa, Fingal's Cave in, and Giant's Causeway compared, 

166 ; extent of the former, 166. 
Stag-hunting at KiUarney, 26. 
Staigue fort, model of, 7. 
Stanihurst, 539, 546. 

Statistical Sicrz'ey of Connau^ht. Dutton, 239. 
Steele, Thomas, 335. 
Steevens, Dr., founded Steevens hospital, Dublin, 318. 



646 



GENERAL INDEX. 



" Stella," tomb of, 350, 571. 
Stephens, James, arrest and escape of, 339, 546. 
Sterne, Lawrence, escape when a child, 79, 608. 
Stevenson, sir John, tomb of, 346. 
Stewart, sir Robert, 351. 
Stokes, Dr., 188. 

Stone of Destiny, 263 ; Petrie and Wakeman on, 263. 
Stone-roofed buildings, 299. 

Story, historian, on the defense of Limerick, 556. 
Strabane, 536. 

Strafford, lord, originated the linen trade, 342, 570. 
Strancally, new castle, 523. 
Strangford lough, 589. 

town, 589. 

Stranorlar, 5 14. 

Strawberry"beds, Dublin, 294, 379. 

Street, G. E., architect, 346. 

Strongbow, 308 ; tradition of slaying his son, 402 ; defeated 

at Thurles, 605 ; monument to, 344 ; inscription, 

346 ; passim, 500, 505, etc. 
Struel, holy wells of, 595. 

Struggle for Irish JVationnlity, The, by John Savage, 312. 
Stuart, History of Armagh, 474. 
Suir, the, 506, 522 ; course of, 522, 537 ; towns and ruins 

on, 605. 
Sullivan, A. M., secures site for statue to Grattan, 367. 
T. D., song on Fenian scare in Cork, 430; presides 

at Tone memorial meeting, 571 ; Diiblin Guide 

Book, 362. 

William Kirby, President Queen's College, Cork, 435, 

Sunday's Well, 42S. 

Sutton, 306. 

" Sweet Auburn," 291. 

Sweetman, John, exile of '98, 377. 

Swift, Jonathan, birthplace, 351 ; tomb and bust of, 350 ; 
at Kilroot, 124; at Laracor with "Stella," 270; 
founds St. Patrick's hospital, 31 8 ; addition to in- 
scription on the gate of Bandon, 446 ; breaks with 
"Vanessa" at Celbridge, %1\ \ passim , 269, 546, 
etc. 

Swords, 294 ; round tower, church and castle at, 303 ; S.S. 
Columbkill and Finian at, 303. 



Tacitus, intro., i. 

Tacumshin (sea) lake, 499. 

Tailors' Hall, Back Lane, Dublin, 562, 

Tailtean (Teltown) royal palace and games at, 266. 

Talbot, 122, 255 ; Malahide, 299, 300. 

sir John, Shakspere on, 256. 

Tallaght, 108, 380. 
Tanderagee, 476. 

Tara, 247, 248, history and description of, 259-264 ; St. 

Patrick at, 265 ; monster repeal meeting at, 265. 
Tate, Nahum, version of the Psalms, 446. 
Taylor, Bayard, 170; on Fair Head, 135. 

Jeremy, preached and died at Lisburn, 176. 

W. S. , History of Fine Arts in Great Britain and Ire- 

land, 359. 
Teach Cormaic, House of Cormac, Tara, 263. 



Teampull-na-Neavc, the Church of the Saint. 241 (in 

changoill). 
Teampull Phaidrig on Inchangoill, 240. 
Teelin Head, 514. 
Teltown, 24S. 

Templecoran, first Presbyterian church in Ireland, 124. 
Templemore, 605. 
Templeogue, 379. 
Templerobin ruins, 413. 

Thackeray, W. M., on Killarney, 31 ; visit to Connemara, 
202, 211, 212, 218 ; on Irish trout, 212 ; on statue 
of bishop Doyle, 403. 
Theatres (Dublin), 318, 328, 329, 330, 331. 

The Recess, 194. 

Thierry, A., historian, quoted, 122. 

Thomastown, 537 ; niins in, 549 ; view from station, 549. 

(Tipperary), 614. 

Thomond bridge. Limerick, 55S. 

Thompson, general, 227. 

" Three Pigeons" of Goldsmith, 291. 

Thurles, battle at, 605, 606 ; college and cathedral at, 614. 

Thurot, commodore, captures Carrickfergus, 123. 

Tichbourne, sir Henry, defends Drogheda, 493. 

Tierney, Rev. T., prosecuted. 335. 

Tighe, Mary, poetess, gS ; Moore's lines on, 99 ; died, 
550. 

Mr., 537; Statistical Surz'ey of Kilkenny, 547. 

Tinnehinch, the residence of Grattan, 72. 

Tintern abbey, 499, 500, 541. 

Tipperary, county of, 602 ; productiveness and description 
of, 602 ; mountains of, 602 ; rivers of, 603 ; massive 
grandeur of its mountains, 604 ; historical notice of, 
605 ; native families of, 605 ; progress of the in- 
vaders in, 605, 606 ; rise of Desmond and Ormond, 
606; becomes a Cromwellian plantation, 606; na- 
tionality of, 606 ; antiquities, towers, castles and 
abbeys in, 606. 

town, 602, 605, 611. 

Tisdall, Rev. chancellor, 340. 

TIachtga, 248. 

Tobin, John, author of " The Honeymoon," buried near 
Queenstown, 414. 

Tolka, literary associations with, 294. 

Tollymore Park, 599. 

Tone, Theobald Wolfe, 468 ; arrested, 517 ; executed, 
323 ; grave of, 571. 

Toombeola bridge, 200, 214 ; abbey, 210, 215. 

Tooreenacoona bridge, 201. 

Tore mountain, cascade and lake, 7, 30. 

Tor, Danish leader slain, 490. 

Tor head, 134. 

" Tottenham in his boots'^ 319. 

Touchets. 122. 

A Tour in Coiinaught. by Otway, 239. 

Tours in O'lster (see J . B. Doyle, /fl.f«>«). 

Townshend, lord, viceroy, 321, 322. 

Tralee, 57. 

Tramore, 531. 

Treachery, frequent practice of on the Irish, 50S. 

Treatv of Limerick, its violation, 558. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



647 



Treaty stone, 555. 55S. 

Tregury, archbishop, tomb of, 350. 

Tresham, Henry, .376. 

Tribune, Dublin journal, 336. 

Trim {Ath-Tndin), 250; king John's castle, 251 ; history 
and ruins, 252, 256 ; a mint in, 255 ; held by the 
Confederates, 255 ; history of recalls personages in 
Shakspere, 256 ; Wellington monument, 269. 

Trinity College, Dublin, 318, 356. 

Tristram (St. Laurence), 304. 

Trostan, 132. 

Tuam, 244. 

Ttiathal Teachtmar, king, 247 ; instituted feast of Beltinne 
at Usneach, 2S9. 

Tuath-de-danaans, 247. 

Tuath-Munkan, Thomond, or North Munster, 582 ; made 
shire ground, 582, 

Tubbergrieve, 533. 

Tubberneering, 498. 

Tubrid church, 608. 

Tuite, Richard, 249. 

Tullaroan, 548. 

Tulloherin Round Tower, 549. 

Tully castle, 486. 

Tunnel from Cork to Kerry, 470. 

on Kenmare road, 7. 

Turlough-More and Turlough-Cor, 235. 
Turloughs, 232 ; in the West, 235. 
Turnerelli, sculptor, 378. 

Tuskar light, 499. 

Twelve Pins, Bennebola, summits of, 200, 220. 

Tyrawley district, 400. 

Tyrone, county of, inhabited by the Scoti, 535 ; chief seat 

of the O'Neills, 535 ; surface of, 536. 
Tyrrell, de Lacy's deputy, 253. 

Hugh, 249. 

Tyrrell, Rev. Peter J., prosecuted, 335. 



Ullagh Ulidia, 5gr. 

Ulster, earl of, assassinated, 179. 

London company for the colonization of, 576. 

Plantation of, 576. 

" Union, The," accomplished, 323 ; Dublin before and 

after, 327. 
United Irishmen, 374 ; leaders betrayed, 362. 
United Irishman, journal, 337. 
University of Dublin (Trinity College), notice of, 367 ; 

some eminent students of, 369 ; ancient MSS. in, 

370. 
Urban III., Pope, 387. 

Urrisbeg, 199 ; view from, 215 ; district of, 216. 
Urrismore, district of, 2i6. 

Usneach hill, first sacred fire lit on, 248, 268 ; royal pal- 
ace on, 286; description of, 289. 
Ussher, 247, 594. 

Vader-fiord, 533. 

Valentia Island, 52 ; Atlantic telegraph station, 53. 
Vanessa. (See Van Homrigh.) 



Van Homrigh, Hester, Swift's Vanessa. 571 ; residence at 

Celbridge, 571 ; jealousy and death. 571. 
Van Nost, sculptor, 366 
Vales, Glens, etc.: 

Aherlo, 602. 

Bealanabrack, 230. 

Black Valley, 22. 

Carnlough, 12S. 

Clara, 79, 82. 

Golden Vale, 603. 

Glancree, 78. 

Glanismole, 294. 

Glenaan, 131, 132. 

Glenariff, 131, 132. 

Glenavon, 80. 

Glen car, 50. 

Glen-cuileann, 200. 

Glendall, 131, 132. 

Glendalough, 80. 

Glendassan, 80. 

Glendun, 131. 

Glen Hogan, 208. 

Glenmacanass, 80. 

Glenshesk, 139. 

Lagan, 130. 

of Lough Inagh, 195. 

of the Roe, 573. 

of Wicklow, 62. 

Scalp-an-columb, 200. 

Shanganagh, 66, 294. 

Vallancey, General, how he became interested in Irish 

studies, 412. 
Valley of Diamonds, 67. 

of the Suir, 531. 

Vartry river, course of, 95 ; grand waterfall in entering the 

Devil's glen, 95, 98. 
Verdons, de, 299. 
Vesey, de, built castle at Kildare, 566 ; fled to France, 

567. 
Viaduct over the Blackwater, 454. 
Viceregal courts, where held, 363. 

lodge, 379. 

Viceroys, Lords Lieutenant, Lords Deputy, Lords Justice, 
etc. : 

earl of Arran, 379. 

earl of Berkeley, 379, 

duke of Buckingham, 365. 

earl of Carlisle, 338, 365, 378. 

earl of Chesterfield, 379. 

earl of Clarendon, 365. 

sir Richard Cox, 379, 446. 

duke of Devonshire, 379. 

duke of Dorset, 319, 320, 365, 379. 

earl of Eglinton, 365. 

earl of Galway, 379. 

John de Gray, bishop of Norwich, 310, 

lord Arthur Grey of Wilton, 123. 

lord Leonard Grey, 59S. 

earl de Grey, 333. 

John, "lord of Ireland," 310. 



648 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Viceroys, Lords Lieutenant, Lords Deputy, Lords Justice, 

etc. : 
Gerald, earl of Kildare, 311, 614. 

Hugh de Lacy, 310. 

Mortimer, earl of March and Ulster, 426. 

lord Mountjoy, 427. 

earl of Northumberland, 366. 

Pierce Butler, eighth earl of Onnond and Ossorv, 

539- 

James, marquis of Onnond, 312, 427, 544. 

James, duke of Onnond, 379. 

sir John Perrott, 520. 

sir Edward Poynings, 311. 

earl of Rochester, 379. 

duke of Rutland, 365. 

lord St. Germains, 338. 

sir Henry Sidney, 123, 1S3, 363, 5S2. 

earl of Sussex, 148. 

lord Townshend, 365. 

duke of Westmoreland, 365. 

lord Whitworth, 355. 

■ sir William de Windsor, 543. 

lord Wodehouse, 339. 

earl of Worcester, 493, 

duke of York [Hemy r//I.), 311. 

Views a Foot, by Bayard Taylor, 136. 

Villaneuva, Dr. J. L. , Spanish poem on Devil's glen, 97. 
Villarstown, 523. 

Vinager Hill, 498 ; battle at, 507. 
Voluntii, 591. 



Wakefield, Mr., on Killamey, 23, 42, 50. 

Wakeman, F. W., intro., ix., Aichaotogia Hibernica of, 7 ; 

on Glendalough, 87 ; on Devenish, 48 1 ; passim, 

12S, 254, 259, 265, 500, etc. 
Walker, J. A., intra., ix., on Glendalough, 95 ; passim, 

174, etc. 

Rev. George, governor of Derry, monument to, 577 ; 

killed at the Boyne, 577. 
Wall, 532. 
Wallace, Wm. Ross, 167. 

Wm. Vincent, 534. 

Walsh, 534 ; adopt Irish surname and title, 538 ; castles of, 

539- 
Edward, visits John Mitchel on Spike Island, 411. 

Thomas Fitzanthony, founded Thomastown, 549. 

of the Mountain, 538; monument to Kilkenny, 542. 

History of Dublin, 316. 

intelligent blacksmith, 265. 

Walshestown castle, 599. 

Walter, John, mayor of Cork, beheaded at Tyburn for rec- 
ognizing Warbeck, 426. 
Wandesford, 538. 

■ estate. 54S. 

Warbeck, Perkin, 534 ; visits Cork, 426. 
Warburton, bishop, tomb of, 415. 

History of Dublin, 316. 

Warden of Galway, tragic romance of, 180, 183. 
Ware, 299, 594. 



Waringsford, 590. 

Warrens-point, 590, 600. 

Warwick, Rev. Archibald, executed, 597. 

Waterfalls, notable : 

Adrigool, 467. 

Ballyshannon, 516. 

in Black Valley, 23. 

on Antrim coast. 132. 

Poul-a-Phuca, 108. 

Powerscourt, 72 

at Killamey, 7, 30, etc. 

Waterford, county, 521 ; county of Xhe^Dccii, surface of, 
522 ; mountains and valleys, 522 ; the Suir and 
the Blackwater, 522. 

city, its ancient names, 532 ; notice of, 534 ; opposes 

Simnel and Warbeck, 534 ; taken by Cromwell, 534. 

Waterfoot, 577. 

Waterside. 577. 

Wattlebridge, 4S1. 

Webber, Mr. E., built Mardyke, Cork, 42S. 

Weld, Isaac, on Muckross abbey, 14, 15 ; on upper Lake, 
Killarney, 32 ; description of stag-hunt at Killar- 
ney, 26 ; on echoes at Eagle's Nest, 27 ; Statistical 
Survey of Roscommon, 4TJ ; on Kilmallock, 563 ; 
passim, 466, etc. 

Wellesley Bridge, Limerick, 558. 

Wellesleys(Wes!eys), 269, 270. 

Wellington, born at Dangan Castle, boyhood at Trim, 269 ; 
where born ? 375. 

monument. Trim, 251. 

testimonial Phoenix Park, 379 ; has reliefs on by 

Kirke, Farrell and Hogan, 379. 
Wesley, Arthur, 255. 

John, preached in Armagh, 475. 

Westmeath, county of. 2S5 ; separated from Meath, 2S5 ; 
character of, 2S6 ; extent of lakes in, 2S7 ; suffer- 
ing of, in the Williamite war, 288 ; monastic ruins 
in, 289. 

Westport, grand view from, 394. 

Westwood. Mr., on the Boo/t of Keils, 267. 

Wexford, county of, 497 ; ancient inhabitants, Menapii, 
497 ; present name Danish, 497 ; formed into a 
county, 498 ; a battleground in 'gS, 498 ; position 
and boundaries, 49S ; southern part of, 500, 502. 

town, notice of, 505 ; atrocities on bridge, 505 ; be- 

trayed and put to the sword, 505 ; historical mem- 
ories of, 505 ; military supply post in 1641, 505 ; 
Cromwell's slaughter, 505 ; goaded into insurrec- 
tion in 'gS, 505. 

Whately, archbishop, monument to, 350. 

Whiddy island, 467. 

Whin-dykes, Carrig-mawr, 136, 155 ; Roveren valley, 155 ; 
authorities on, 155 ; at the Causewav 162. 

White, 180. 

family settled in DufTerin. 592. 

Whitehaven, fired by Paul Jones, 124. 
Whitelaw, History of Dublin. 316. 
White rocks, Portrush. 171. 
White's castle and abbey, 570. 
Whyte, Samuel, 374. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



649 



Wtcklow, county of, 61 ; the garden of Ireland, 61 ; 

glens and vales in, 62. 
Wilde, sir William, on sepulture of the Irish, ititro. ix. , 

in Arran, 1S7, iSS ; his LoughCorrib, 232, 3S5 ; on 

Carbeiy castle, 571 ; passim, 240, 243, 246, 259, 

260, 263, 272, 375, etc. 
Williams, Richard Dalton, 336, 337, 403. 
William III. , headquarters before the Boyne, 491,492; 

preparations for siege of Limerick, 555 ; defeated 

at, 556 ; signs charter of Cashel, 611 ; statue of, 

365 ; portrait of, 379. 
Willis, N. P., on Muckross abbey, 10 ; on Killarney, 24, 

47 ; on Clifden, 2ig ; on Irish female beauty, 363 ; 

on Kilkenny, 544 ; passim, 120. 170, etc. 
Windele, J., 22, 41S ; his Historical and Descriptive Notices 

of Cork, etc., 434. 
Windy gap, 7. 
Windgap, 539. 

Windsor, sir William de, lord lieutenant, 543. 
Wise'shill, Cork, view from. 431. 
Wodehouse, lord, on the Fenian conspiracy, 339. 
Wolf of Derry hill, 574. 



Wolfe, Rev. C, buried nSar Queenstown, 414 ; monument 

to, 35°- 
Wolff. {See Harland.) 
Wood-coal in Antrim, 130. 
Woodlawn, 379. 

Woodward, bishop, tomb of, 415. 
Woodstock, 102. 

demesne, 550. 

in Galway, 192. 

Wool-trade and industry in 1793, S2 ; in Dublin, 342. 

Women of Limerick, 556, 557. 

Wright, G. N.,467. 

Wurtemburg, duke of, attacks Cork, 42S. 

Wyatt, Digby, 2S7. 



Youghal, 406 ; notice of, 436 ; connections of Raleigh with, 
437 ; collegiate church of, 43S, 439 ; potatoes first 
grown at, 43S, 532. 

Young, Arthur, on the Lee, 416. 

"Young Ireland." agitation in Dublin, 335, 5S4 ; Ahson, 
the historian, on, 607. 



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